54m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Marvellous climbing and wildly exposed positions combine to make this route one of Avon's greatest excursions. The first pitch is serious for the second whilst the hard moves on pitch two are perfectly protected. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 5a, 30m. From the left end of the higher ledge climb a groove to a good peg and wires. Traverse left to a poor peg and then downclimb left past a distinct finger edge to small ledges. Traverse left again until beneath a corner with a high prominent peg in its left wall. Move left again past a well fingered crack and a hidden peg via steep moves that allow a big quarry spike to be reached a little higher. Move left on easier rock to a stance in a yellow niche and good quarry spike belay 3m above.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up to the right-hand side of the big overhang, peg, and step right and up to a good ledge. Move up the left wall above the overhang with difficulty, 2 pegs, to easier ground. Move up to the leaning headwall and 2 pegs before traversing delicately right into a superbly-positioned groove, peg. Finish up the groove. © Rockfax

B Annette, G Clark (with 5 pts aid) 1961

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bristol first E2s, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 18 Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Aug AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 21 Jul AltLd O/S
with Jamie Evans
with Jamie Evans
jamieevans 21 Jul AltLd Lead pitch 2.
Lead pitch 2.
knighty 4 Jul AltLd dnf Led just P1. Started to get too dark to commit to P2. An exciting, wandering pitch that felt like solid E1. Never an easy section to relax on! Looking forward to coming back and bagging the full climb.
Led just P1. Started to get too dark to commit to P2. An exciting, wandering pitch that felt like solid E1. Never an easy section to relax on! Looking forward to coming back and bagging the full climb.
Euan Todd 4 Jul AltLd dnf Just p1, then abbed off in the fading light. Will be back.
with knighty
Just p1, then abbed off in the fading light. Will be back.
with knighty
George Cox 20 Jun AltLd lead p2
lead p2
fuzzysheep01 18 May AltLd O/S Overrated? Led approach pitch and 5c pitch. Top pitch was really good, first pitch very wandery and awkward. Pegs in annoying place on crux.
with eduardo
Overrated? Led approach pitch and 5c pitch. Top pitch was really good, first pitch very wandery and awkward. Pegs in annoying place on crux.
with eduardo
eduardo 18 May AltLd O/S Led P1, absorbing, wandering & sometimes awkward climbing. P2 also good, harder moves but more obvious line. Stepped slightly left at the P2 crux pegs, seemed a sensible sequence. Traverse moves were good too. Shame about the crappy approach pitch. Finishing off was a thorny jungle bash. With a recently lifted bird ban, we must have been amongst the first 2019 ascensionists.
Led P1, absorbing, wandering & sometimes awkward climbing. P2 also good, harder moves but more obvious line. Stepped slightly left at the P2 crux pegs, seemed a sensible sequence. Traverse moves were good too. Shame about the crappy approach pitch. Finishing off was a thorny jungle bash. With a recently lifted bird ban, we must have been amongst the first 2019 ascensionists.
jonsey1995 18 Nov, 2018 2nd
with tom.wp6
with tom.wp6
Hidden 18 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
aiyer 21 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Strangely found P1 harder than P2...All the usual characteristics of my leading skills - rope drag, nearly got lost on P1 and nearly came off. Finished in dying light!
Strangely found P1 harder than P2...All the usual characteristics of my leading skills - rope drag, nearly got lost on P1 and nearly came off. Finished in dying light!
JoeCoxson 21 Aug, 2018 2nd rpt Thought I was going to be topping out in the dark
with aiyer
Thought I was going to be topping out in the dark
with aiyer
mike mo ??, 2018 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 29 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
JoeCoxson 6 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Amazing post work climb, probably best Avon experience yet. Finished just in the dying light. Traverse pitch is nice and delicate 5a, with enough gear to back up the dodgy looking pegs. Crux is short and sharp in an awesome position, but whoever put that extra peg in the good foothold needs a talking to.
with TGHB
Amazing post work climb, probably best Avon experience yet. Finished just in the dying light. Traverse pitch is nice and delicate 5a, with enough gear to back up the dodgy looking pegs. Crux is short and sharp in an awesome position, but whoever put that extra peg in the good foothold needs a talking to.
with TGHB
TGHB 6 Sep, 2017 2nd dog
AngelaC 6 Aug, 2017 2nd
Steve Bartle 13 May, 2017 2nd I only led the approach pitch, although seconding the traverse pitch feels like leading as you down climb and there's little gear. I didn't find the overhang crux too bad, but had to grab a draw for a rest right near the top of the route. Still, first E2 for me!
with Andrew T
I only led the approach pitch, although seconding the traverse pitch feels like leading as you down climb and there's little gear. I didn't find the overhang crux too bad, but had to grab a draw for a rest right near the top of the route. Still, first E2 for me!
with Andrew T
Gibbo 12 Oct, 2016 AltLd
with Rich Emerson
with Rich Emerson
tobydunford 22 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Great climbing, though think i found pink wall direct a more enjoyable and memorable experience. Very well pegged and good holds on the crux above the overhang. Didn't find the 5c move? delicate traverse has great feet all the way, so doesnt feel that delicate. Great fun positions!
with Harry Martin
Great climbing, though think i found pink wall direct a more enjoyable and memorable experience. Very well pegged and good holds on the crux above the overhang. Didn't find the 5c move? delicate traverse has great feet all the way, so doesnt feel that delicate. Great fun positions!
with Harry Martin
Pippa 13 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Both pitches, made Scotty puke
with Scotty
Both pitches, made Scotty puke
with Scotty
Martin Haworth 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Dave Cundy
with Dave Cundy
Dave Cundy 9 Aug, 2016 AltLd rpt
with Martin Haworth
with Martin Haworth
laurashaw 2 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S Great first pitch although route finding was a bit problematic, really nice exposure. Rained off the second pitch (abed off the quarry spike anchor) but keen to go back and finish the route!
Great first pitch although route finding was a bit problematic, really nice exposure. Rained off the second pitch (abed off the quarry spike anchor) but keen to go back and finish the route!
Hidden 2 Feb, 2016 2nd
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Hidden 25 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hugobristol 25 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S Pitch 1 never had any desperate moves but the climbing was insecure and the gear sometimes wanting, solid lead by Thom. Pitch two was wildly exposed and very well pegged, pulling past the roof was easier than expected whilst the final traverse more delicate than i had hoped!
Pitch 1 never had any desperate moves but the climbing was insecure and the gear sometimes wanting, solid lead by Thom. Pitch two was wildly exposed and very well pegged, pulling past the roof was easier than expected whilst the final traverse more delicate than i had hoped!
Hidden 1 Nov, 2015 AltLd O/S
jsmcfarland 28 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Led the absolutely terrible pitch up to the breakfast ledge, Tim led p2 and I led p3. A few of the pitons on the traverse pitch are looking really dodgy and could do with replacing (a few key ones on the 3rd pitch are new). P2 is brilliant and requires some good routefinding, P3 is fairly obvious but has some bloody hard moves, both hauling up the steep, peg protected bulge and the traverse a little while after. Accidentally stepped on a peg on the crux bulge, but then again, whoever replaced the pegs decided to bang it in over a key foothold so I don't feel too bad :|
Led the absolutely terrible pitch up to the breakfast ledge, Tim led p2 and I led p3. A few of the pitons on the traverse pitch are looking really dodgy and could do with replacing (a few key ones on the 3rd pitch are new). P2 is brilliant and requires some good routefinding, P3 is fairly obvious but has some bloody hard moves, both hauling up the steep, peg protected bulge and the traverse a little while after. Accidentally stepped on a peg on the crux bulge, but then again, whoever replaced the pegs decided to bang it in over a key foothold so I don't feel too bad :|
Hidden 28 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 12 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Wild! Fantastic intricate traverse on p1 to some surprisingly tricky moves to finish. p2 wildly exposed stepping out over the lip of the overhang then a great delicate traverse. Quality!
Wild! Fantastic intricate traverse on p1 to some surprisingly tricky moves to finish. p2 wildly exposed stepping out over the lip of the overhang then a great delicate traverse. Quality!
hutchay 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Led the first pitch, seconded the 2nd.
with Lucas
Led the first pitch, seconded the 2nd.
with Lucas
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S P2. Amazing.
with Mike
P2. Amazing.
with Mike
Misha 18 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Did this after Felix led Moke's Mistake, traversing into the belay for this. Felix led the nomadic first pitch, clipping 10 million pegs in various states of decay. Easy to start but has a sustained steep finish. I did the top pitch, which is brilliant! The crux steep wall above the roof looked nails direct so I sort off stepped round it using some dodgy looking blocks out left. Think that's the way at the grade. The tricky exposed traverse was great fun.
Did this after Felix led Moke's Mistake, traversing into the belay for this. Felix led the nomadic first pitch, clipping 10 million pegs in various states of decay. Easy to start but has a sustained steep finish. I did the top pitch, which is brilliant! The crux steep wall above the roof looked nails direct so I sort off stepped round it using some dodgy looking blocks out left. Think that's the way at the grade. The tricky exposed traverse was great fun.
felixizzy 18 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S P1. Took some careful rope work on the first pitch. Wasn't expecting pitch to to be so awesome!
with Misha
P1. Took some careful rope work on the first pitch. Wasn't expecting pitch to to be so awesome!
with Misha
danmullett 7 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 1 Nov, 2014 Lead dog Very good climbing, but very exposed and scary, but the protection is very good. Was gutted i acciedently stepped on a peg on the crux but i did the rest of it clean so i am statisfied.
Very good climbing, but very exposed and scary, but the protection is very good. Was gutted i acciedently stepped on a peg on the crux but i did the rest of it clean so i am statisfied.
steve_gibbs 1 Nov, 2014 2nd O/S JZ stormed up the puppy, clinging on like a limpit! Absolutely wicked route with maximal exposure reeet on the (hard) 5c crux, though well protected with new-ish pegs throughout! Will be all over it again someday like a fat kid on a cupcake!
with zcsharp
JZ stormed up the puppy, clinging on like a limpit! Absolutely wicked route with maximal exposure reeet on the (hard) 5c crux, though well protected with new-ish pegs throughout! Will be all over it again someday like a fat kid on a cupcake!
with zcsharp
richiebongo 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead last bit of pitch 1 and pitch 2.
with Jon Didymus
Lead last bit of pitch 1 and pitch 2.
with Jon Didymus
Didymus 4 Sep, 2014 AltLd Led most but not all of p1. 2 points of aid seconding p2. All felt hard but still not feeling good.
Led most but not all of p1. 2 points of aid seconding p2. All felt hard but still not feeling good.
Hidden 7 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
alastairbegley 3 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Great route, first pitch was exciting to second, second pitch was great.
with twem
Great route, first pitch was exciting to second, second pitch was great.
with twem
clams ?Jul, 2014 AltLd Great route! Led P1. Trod on peg on crux
with Jim
Great route! Led P1. Trod on peg on crux
with Jim
alasdair19 ??, 2014 -
Hidden 23 Oct, 2013 Lead
Dan0Me 28 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S scary first pitch
scary first pitch
James Smith 28 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Pulled off a big crumbly bit of wall on the 'scramble' up to breakfast ledge. Roped up after that and pitched the remainder to the ledge. Dan took the first pitch which wasn't as bold to second as the guidebook makes out, I led the second pitch which was very dusty to start but once round the overhang got very good very quickly! All in all a great fun outing though I agree with below comments saying maybe not as great climbing as its reputation would suggest.
with dan
Pulled off a big crumbly bit of wall on the 'scramble' up to breakfast ledge. Roped up after that and pitched the remainder to the ledge. Dan took the first pitch which wasn't as bold to second as the guidebook makes out, I led the second pitch which was very dusty to start but once round the overhang got very good very quickly! All in all a great fun outing though I agree with below comments saying maybe not as great climbing as its reputation would suggest.
with dan
Nick Russell 2 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Varied climbing and exposed situation, a good route. I led pitch 2: a distinct crux in the middle followed by an engaging traverse.
with Martin
Varied climbing and exposed situation, a good route. I led pitch 2: a distinct crux in the middle followed by an engaging traverse.
with Martin
BeccaSnowden 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led second pitch - excellent varied and exposed climbing. Seconding pitch 1 was terrifying!
Led second pitch - excellent varied and exposed climbing. Seconding pitch 1 was terrifying!
Alex Winter 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led first pitch, which was a bit dusty. Second pitch was cool.
Led first pitch, which was a bit dusty. Second pitch was cool.
Stanners 8 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S HOT. Led pitch 1 which is a lot better protected than expected but route finding takes a little care. Great route, must do again in normal temperatures!
HOT. Led pitch 1 which is a lot better protected than expected but route finding takes a little care. Great route, must do again in normal temperatures!
Hidden 8 Jul, 2013 AltLd
jcw ??, 2013 -
Hidden 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd
Brian H 22 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
AlexRenshaw 22 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Thomas Renshaw, Ted Lister
with Thomas Renshaw, Ted Lister
richardr 18 Aug, 2012 AltLd P1.
with Billg
P1.
with Billg
Ed Babs 28 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S P1
with IainAM
P1
with IainAM
Hidden 28 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Billg ??, 2012 AltLd O/S Would agree with KRB. I accept its an established classic, but couldn't really see why, it would get no more than 1 star on many crags
Would agree with KRB. I accept its an established classic, but couldn't really see why, it would get no more than 1 star on many crags
Aaron Lines 28 Dec, 2011 AltLd led p2
led p2
Hidden 16 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 16 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Crux felt pretty hard for 5c.
with hms
Crux felt pretty hard for 5c.
with hms
pezzerrr 28 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 9 Jul, 2011 2nd dnf Did first pitch then abseiled off. Rusty peg didn't inspire Rich to gain left wall from belay
with Rich Rogers
Did first pitch then abseiled off. Rusty peg didn't inspire Rich to gain left wall from belay
with Rich Rogers
scorpia97 4 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S P1 only, backed off for various reasons..
P1 only, backed off for various reasons..
Ross Davidson 4 Jul, 2011 2nd dnf Abbed before last pitch for a number of reasons
Abbed before last pitch for a number of reasons
KRB 27 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Squeezed in after work and after the rain had dried off. A route that perhaps lives more off its reputation than its actual quality. That said, it does remain a good and adventurous outing - even to the extent that the belay between the main pitches has a knockout odour from the guano-coated rock more consistent with the bat caves of Borneo than a city crag. Hence not a climb for a slow party!
with Martin Bridges
Squeezed in after work and after the rain had dried off. A route that perhaps lives more off its reputation than its actual quality. That said, it does remain a good and adventurous outing - even to the extent that the belay between the main pitches has a knockout odour from the guano-coated rock more consistent with the bat caves of Borneo than a city crag. Hence not a climb for a slow party!
with Martin Bridges
andy dunn 10 Oct, 2010 Lead dnf P1 Only
with J
P1 Only
with J
joeurwin 9 Sep, 2010 2nd dog amazing route. Led the easy pitch up to breakfast ledge, fell at crux on 3rd pitch as dark was falling. Finished by the light of my rubbish headtorch.
amazing route. Led the easy pitch up to breakfast ledge, fell at crux on 3rd pitch as dark was falling. Finished by the light of my rubbish headtorch.
RagingPuffin 9 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
andy dunn 31 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf P1 only tonight Route finding was a little time consuming to say the least (very enjoyable though. So we abbed off the belay spike in fading light. A great pitch, some exciting positions, some great traversing. Looking forwards to coming back for the second pitch.
with J
P1 only tonight Route finding was a little time consuming to say the least (very enjoyable though. So we abbed off the belay spike in fading light. A great pitch, some exciting positions, some great traversing. Looking forwards to coming back for the second pitch.
with J
gripped01 ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Alex Tomczynski
with Alex Tomczynski
dan gibson 24 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with oscar
with oscar
Hidden 24 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Chubbard 18 Jul, 2009 Lead dnf Abbed before last pitch.
with JimR
Abbed before last pitch.
with JimR
JimR 18 Jul, 2009 - Half way along traverse, loud crash as some youth tried to break into car necessitated retreat from spike to assess damage.
with Charles H
Half way along traverse, loud crash as some youth tried to break into car necessitated retreat from spike to assess damage.
with Charles H
Hidden 4 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
billb ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Mike S
with Mike S
Hidden ??, 2009 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 15 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S Led P2
with Joe
Led P2
with Joe
James Marshall 8 Aug, 2008 2nd
Mark Davies PK 1 Jul, 2008 AltLd I led first pitch (E1 5a?) pulled on peg seconding second pitch due to rain and thunder
with Pete (kafoozalem)
I led first pitch (E1 5a?) pulled on peg seconding second pitch due to rain and thunder
with Pete (kafoozalem)
georgeevans88 6 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
with heallan
with heallan
Hidden 6 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S
_m.cox_ ?Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Claire Durant, Jo Stadden
with Claire Durant, Jo Stadden
Hidden 11 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
tonanf 12 Oct, 2006 AltLd β some interesting moments but too meandering for my taste.
with burt
some interesting moments but too meandering for my taste.
with burt
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Paz 29 Aug, 2005 2nd rpt P2 only (topping out from Goth)
with RJ
P2 only (topping out from Goth)
with RJ
Kev Little ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
tom.e ??, 2005 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK ?Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S I led top (5c)pitch
with Jack G
I led top (5c)pitch
with Jack G
Hidden ?Oct, 2003 AltLd O/S
Paz 28 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S led P1 (5a)
led P1 (5a)
Hidden 28 Aug, 2003 AltLd
simon kimber ??, 2002 2nd
with Tony Penning
with Tony Penning
John Southworth 23 Aug, 2001 AltLd O/S Led P1. Utter shite
with Jason Parker
Led P1. Utter shite
with Jason Parker
crimpaway ?Apr, 2000 Lead
Roget 19 Feb, 2000 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Ally Smith ??, 2000 -
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 1999 AltLd O/S
lowersharpnose 2 Jul, 1998 AltLd
with tombawimba
with tombawimba
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12 Sep, 1996 AltLd
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
Hidden ??, 1996 AltLd
AndySL 17 Aug, 1995 AltLd O/S Mark led first pitch, I led second. The crux move is as hard as they say but well protected.
with Mark
Mark led first pitch, I led second. The crux move is as hard as they say but well protected.
with Mark
lowersharpnose 1 Jan, 1995 Lead
Pete Nugent 2 Jan, 1989 Lead β has 2nd before E1,5c** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
with Charlie Everett
has 2nd before E1,5c** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
with Charlie Everett
AndyB123 ??, 1989 2nd Finished/struggled on P1, lowered off on 9mm rope, nearly dropped myself
Finished/struggled on P1, lowered off on 9mm rope, nearly dropped myself
mark-abz 14 May, 1988 Lead O/S
with Andy W
with Andy W
DDDD ??, 1988 -
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1988 Lead
adriandesouza ?May, 1987 Lead O/S
Lee Davies (Sniffer) ??, 1987 2nd
with Paul Bruten
with Paul Bruten
Hidden ?Oct, 1986 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?Mar, 1986 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 6 Sep, 1985 2nd
with George Sharpe
with George Sharpe
Mike Owen 1 Aug, 1985 Lead O/S
with Simon King, Elaine Owen
with Simon King, Elaine Owen
charlesmfrench 25 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
JamieAyres ?May, 1985 2nd rpt It was E1 then. Tried leading it later that year with both Phil Windall and John Warburton - failed both times... didn't like the state of the pegs and backed off cos I knew I was likely to fall.
with Graham Aveyard
It was E1 then. Tried leading it later that year with both Phil Windall and John Warburton - failed both times... didn't like the state of the pegs and backed off cos I knew I was likely to fall.
with Graham Aveyard
pete johnson ??, 1985 -
Richard Weller 6 Oct, 1984 AltLd
with john sanders
with john sanders
Nigel Coe 6 Oct, 1984 AltLd 1 pt aid
with Tim Dunsby
1 pt aid
with Tim Dunsby
Eduardo Martinez 3 Sep, 1984 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 Dave Soles
Led pitch 2 Dave Soles
Hidden ??, 1984 AltLd
William Robertson ??, 1984 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
Nic Robinson 6 Feb, 1983 Lead O/S
with Simon ?
with Simon ?
andy gittins ??, 1983 -
stp 16 Apr, 1982 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2. Worth E2.
Lead pitch 2. Worth E2.
Steve Bell ??, 1981 -
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
duncan ?Mar, 1980 AltLd rpt
duncan ?Feb, 1980 AltLd O/S
mitch1960 ??, 1980 AltLd
with Mark Nicholson
with Mark Nicholson
Derek Furze ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden 4 Nov, 1979 Lead
Marcus 7 Mar, 1976 -
with Pete Sutton
with Pete Sutton
D Tempest ?Jan, 1976 AltLd
Andy Chubb ??, 1976 -
with Rich Fooles
with Rich Fooles
Hidden ??, 1966 AltLd
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 32
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set