Rockfax Description
Marvellous climbing and wildly exposed positions combine to make this route one of Avon's greatest excursions. The first pitch is serious for the second whilst the hard moves on pitch two are perfectly protected. Start on Breakfast Ledge.
1) 5a, 30m. From the left end of the higher ledge climb a groove to a good peg and wires. Traverse left to a poor peg and then downclimb left past a distinct finger edge to small ledges. Traverse left again until beneath a corner with a high prominent peg in its left wall. Move left again past a well fingered crack and a hidden peg via steep moves that allow a big quarry spike to be reached a little higher. Move left on easier rock to a stance in a yellow niche and good quarry spike belay 3m above.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up to the right-hand side of the big overhang, peg, and step right and up to a good ledge. Move up the left wall above the overhang with difficulty, 2 pegs, to easier ground. Move up to the leaning headwall and 2 pegs before traversing delicately right into a superbly-positioned groove, peg. Finish up the groove. © Rockfax

B Annette, G Clark (with 5 pts aid) 1961

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bristol first E2s, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Martin Bagshaw 29/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
JoeCoxson 06/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Amazing post work climb, probably best Avon experience yet. Finished just in the dying light. Traverse pitch is nice and delicate 5a, with enough gear to back up the dodgy looking pegs. Crux is short and sharp in an awesome position, but whoever put that extra peg in the good foothold needs a talking to.

TGHB 06/Sep/17 2nd dog
with Joe
AngelaC 06/Aug/17 2nd
Steve Bartle 13/May/17 2nd

I only led the approach pitch, although seconding the traverse pitch feels like leading as you down climb and there's little gear. I didn't find the overhang crux too bad, but had to grab a draw for a rest right near the top of the route. Still, first E2 for me!

with Andrew T
Gibbo 12/Oct/16 AltLd
with Rich Emerson
tobydunford 22/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Great climbing, though think i found pink wall direct a more enjoyable and memorable experience. Very well pegged and good holds on the crux above the overhang. Didn't find the 5c move? delicate traverse has great feet all the way, so doesnt feel that delicate. Great fun positions!

with Harry Martin
Pippa 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Both pitches, made Scotty puke

with Scotty
Martin Haworth 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Dave Cundy
laurashaw 02/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Great first pitch although route finding was a bit problematic, really nice exposure. Rained off the second pitch (abed off the quarry spike anchor) but keen to go back and finish the route!

Hidden 02/Feb/16 2nd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden 25/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
Hugobristol 25/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 never had any desperate moves but the climbing was insecure and the gear sometimes wanting, solid lead by Thom. Pitch two was wildly exposed and very well pegged, pulling past the roof was easier than expected whilst the final traverse more delicate than i had hoped!

with Thom
Hidden 01/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
jsmcfarland 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led the absolutely terrible pitch up to the breakfast ledge, Tim led p2 and I led p3. A few of the pitons on the traverse pitch are looking really dodgy and could do with replacing (a few key ones on the 3rd pitch are new). P2 is brilliant and requires some good routefinding, P3 is fairly obvious but has some bloody hard moves, both hauling up the steep, peg protected bulge and the traverse a little while after. Accidentally stepped on a peg on the crux bulge, but then again, whoever replaced the pegs decided to bang it in over a key foothold so I don't feel too bad :|

with Tim
tim.fairhall 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S


with Sachi
Cheese Monkey 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Wild! Fantastic intricate traverse on p1 to some surprisingly tricky moves to finish. p2 wildly exposed stepping out over the lip of the overhang then a great delicate traverse. Quality!

with Ric E
hutchay 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Led the first pitch, seconded the 2nd.

with Lucas
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Chris_barr 21/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

P2. Amazing.

with Mike
Misha 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Did this after Felix led Moke's Mistake, traversing into the belay for this. Felix led the nomadic first pitch, clipping 10 million pegs in various states of decay. Easy to start but has a sustained steep finish. I did the top pitch, which is brilliant! The crux steep wall above the roof looked nails direct so I sort off stepped round it using some dodgy looking blocks out left. Think that's the way at the grade. The tricky exposed traverse was great fun.

with Felix
felixizzy 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

P1. Took some careful rope work on the first pitch. Wasn't expecting pitch to to be so awesome!

with misha
danmullett 07/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
zcsharp 01/Nov/14 Lead dog

Very good climbing, but very exposed and scary, but the protection is very good. Was gutted i acciedently stepped on a peg on the crux but i did the rest of it clean so i am statisfied.

steve_gibbs 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S

JZ stormed up the puppy, clinging on like a limpit! Absolutely wicked route with maximal exposure reeet on the (hard) 5c crux, though well protected with new-ish pegs throughout! Will be all over it again someday like a fat kid on a cupcake!

richiebongo 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead last bit of pitch 1 and pitch 2.

with Jon Didymus
Didymus 04/Sep/14 AltLd

Led most but not all of p1. 2 points of aid seconding p2. All felt hard but still not feeling good.

with Rich
Hidden 07/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
alastairbegley 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, first pitch was exciting to second, second pitch was great.

clams ?/Jul/14 AltLd

Great route! Led P1. Trod on peg on crux

with Jim
alasdair19 ??/2014 -
Dan0Me 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

scary first pitch

with James S
James Smith 28/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Pulled off a big crumbly bit of wall on the 'scramble' up to breakfast ledge. Roped up after that and pitched the remainder to the ledge. Dan took the first pitch which wasn't as bold to second as the guidebook makes out, I led the second pitch which was very dusty to start but once round the overhang got very good very quickly! All in all a great fun outing though I agree with below comments saying maybe not as great climbing as its reputation would suggest.

with dan
Nick Russell 02/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Varied climbing and exposed situation, a good route. I led pitch 2: a distinct crux in the middle followed by an engaging traverse.

with Martin
BeccaSnowden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led second pitch - excellent varied and exposed climbing. Seconding pitch 1 was terrifying!

Alex Winter 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch, which was a bit dusty. Second pitch was cool.

with Becca
Stanners 08/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

HOT. Led pitch 1 which is a lot better protected than expected but route finding takes a little care. Great route, must do again in normal temperatures!

Quarryboy 08/Jul/13 AltLd

Circles 5,6 and 7 of hell are probably cooler than it was on the day we climbed this.

jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden 22/Sep/12 AltLd
Brian H 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
AlexRenshaw 22/Sep/12 2nd
with Thomas Renshaw, Ted Lister
richardr 18/Aug/12 AltLd


with Bill
Ed Babs 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S


Hidden 28/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Billg ??/2012 AltLd O/S

Would agree with KRB. I accept its an established classic, but couldn't really see why, it would get no more than 1 star on many crags

Aaron Lines 28/Dec/11 AltLd

led p2

Hidden 16/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 16/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Crux felt pretty hard for 5c.

with helen
pezzerrr 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
mick1jones 09/Jul/11 2nd dnf

Did first pitch then abseiled off. Rusty peg didn't inspire Rich to gain left wall from belay

with Rich Rogers
scorpia97 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S

P1 only, backed off for various reasons..

Hidden 04/Jul/11 2nd dnf
KRB 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Squeezed in after work and after the rain had dried off. A route that perhaps lives more off its reputation than its actual quality. That said, it does remain a good and adventurous outing - even to the extent that the belay between the main pitches has a knockout odour from the guano-coated rock more consistent with the bat caves of Borneo than a city crag. Hence not a climb for a slow party!

with Martin Bridges
andy dunn 10/Oct/10 Lead dnf

P1 Only

with J
joeurwin 09/Sep/10 2nd dog

amazing route. Led the easy pitch up to breakfast ledge, fell at crux on 3rd pitch as dark was falling. Finished by the light of my rubbish headtorch.

RagingPuffin 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
andy dunn 31/Aug/10 Lead dnf

P1 only tonight Route finding was a little time consuming to say the least (very enjoyable though. So we abbed off the belay spike in fading light. A great pitch, some exciting positions, some great traversing. Looking forwards to coming back for the second pitch.

with J
gripped01 ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Alex Tomczynski
dan gibson 24/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with oscar
Hidden 24/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Chubbard 18/Jul/09 Lead dnf

Abbed before last pitch.

JimR 18/Jul/09 -

Half way along traverse, loud crash as some youth tried to break into car necessitated retreat from spike to assess damage.

with Charles H
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
billb ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Mike S
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 15/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Joe
James Marshall 08/Aug/08 2nd
Mark Davies PK 01/Jul/08 AltLd

I led first pitch (E1 5a?) pulled on peg seconding second pitch due to rain and thunder

with Pete (kafoozalem)
georgeevans88 06/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
with Harry
Hidden 06/Feb/08 AltLd O/S
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Claire Durant, Jo Stadden
Hidden 11/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
tonanf 12/Oct/06 AltLd β

some interesting moments but too meandering for my taste.

with burt
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Paz 29/Aug/05 2nd rpt

P2 only (topping out from Goth)

with RJ
Kev Little ??/2005 AltLd O/S
tom.e ??/2005 2nd O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Jul/04 AltLd O/S

I led top (5c)pitch

with Jack G
Hidden ?/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
Paz 28/Aug/03 AltLd O/S

led P1 (5a)

with TS
simon kimber ??/2002 2nd
with Tony Penning
John Southworth 23/Aug/01 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Utter shite

with Jason Parker
crimpaway ?/Apr/00 Lead
Roget 19/Feb/00 Lead O/S
with jon
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
lowersharpnose 02/Jul/98 AltLd
with tombawimba
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12/Sep/96 AltLd
with Al Willoner
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
AndySL 17/Aug/95 AltLd O/S

Mark led first pitch, I led second. The crux move is as hard as they say but well protected.

with Mark
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Pete Nugent 02/Jan/89 Lead β

has 2nd before E1,5c** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)

with Charlie Everett
AndyB123 ??/1989 2nd

Finished/struggled on P1, lowered off on 9mm rope, nearly dropped myself

mark-abz 14/May/88 Lead O/S
with Andy W
DDDD ??/1988 -
Bullybones ??/1988 Lead
adriandesouza ?/May/87 Lead O/S
sniffer ??/1987 2nd
with Paul Bruten
clark alston ?/Oct/86 Lead O/S

Intriguing crux.

with Alan Pow
wynaptomos ?/Mar/86 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 06/Sep/85 2nd
with George Sharpe
Mike Owen 01/Aug/85 Lead O/S
with Simon King, Elaine Owen
charlesmfrench 25/Jul/85 Lead O/S
JamieAyres ?/May/85 2nd rpt

It was E1 then. Tried leading it later that year with both Phil Windall and John Warburton - failed both times... didn't like the state of the pegs and backed off cos I knew I was likely to fall.

with Graham Aveyard
Richard Weller 06/Oct/84 AltLd
with john sanders
Nigel Coe 06/Oct/84 AltLd

1 pt aid

with Tim Dunsby
Eduardo Martinez 03/Sep/84 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 Dave Soles

Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
William Robertson ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Emily
Nic Robinson 06/Feb/83 Lead O/S
with Simon ?
andy gittins ??/1983 -
stp 16/Apr/82 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Worth E2.

Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Unsure
duncan ?/Mar/80 AltLd rpt
duncan ?/Feb/80 AltLd O/S
mitch1960 ??/1980 AltLd
with Mark Nicholson
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hidden 04/Nov/79 Lead
Marcus 07/Mar/76 -
with Pete Sutton
D Tempest ?/Jan/76 AltLd
Andy Chubb ??/1976 -
with Rich Fooles
Hidden ??/1966 AltLd
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 31
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 29
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set