Rockfax Description
Exposed and quirky traversing taking in some of Avon's most impressive locations. Start from The Gallery to the left of Lunchtime Ledge. Combined with Mike's Mistake it forms a classically varied way up the cliff. The last pitch and a half is shared with Pink Wall Direct.
1) 16m. Traverse easily left beneath an overhang to a tree. Continue in the same line to pegs and a stance under the leaning headwall.
2) 4c, 22m. Downclimb the groove on the left to point level with the lowest of the three huge iron spikes in the sheer left wall. Make a tricky move to grab the first spike and then romp up the spikes to a fine and very exposed stance - the Aerodrome stance.
3) 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner. © Rockfax

M W Harvey (B G N Page, H Morgan with aid 1955) 1956

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2.


ClimberDateStyle
badgerjockey 09/Jul AltLd O/S

Led P2. An exhilarating trip! Memorably exposed and adventurous with one of the oddest pitches ever climbing down to, then up the quarry spikes! Why do I always climb in Avon when its sodding boiling? There are no bolts or pegs on the Aerodrome, P2 stance, at time of writing! Only remains of old M8 bolt. Would definitely benefit from a new bolt and replaced pegs, wherever they went. Space for 4 small and large cams though plus a nice tricam shothole. No tat on the downclimb peg either. The downclimb is so awkward and committing but with hidden holds. Recommend back-roping so 2nd topropes off one rope before untying and pulling at P2 belay. Today was not the day to be smearing along P3, those pegs look old (although at least three good cams to be had if your arms can take it).

Stuart William 09/Jul Lead O/S

Led pitch 1+3. Pitch 1 went on a bit longer than expected, faffed about a bit looking for the belay when I just hadn't traversed far enough. Pitch 2 felt serious to second, I put a sling over the peg and flicked it off after the first couple of moves down. Nothing particularly hard just blind and awkward. Spikes are really good fun. Cool and strange climbing, wish I'd remembered my camera. Third pitch pumpy and really good, just a shame it's so short.

with Harry
mcrispin 08/Jul AltLd rpt
with Jason payne, Darren till
Hidden 18/Jun AltLd O/S
Jim blackford 20/Feb Lead

an adventure. 2nd pitch was straighforward which we backroped. on the third my legs got caught on the wrong side of the rope so i stepped on a peg - need to do this properly

with Arthur
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Dino Dave 06/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

After climbing Mike's Mistake. Led P2&3 - poor Munro had to second the down-climb pitch in the rain

with Munro
RagingPuffin 12/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led the middle pitch. A brilliant, quirky little epic, finishing in the dark.

Gingerlings 12/Sep/16 AltLd
andy dunn 20/Jul/16 AltLd
with J
Steve Bartle 18/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

The wildest route I've done on the gorge so far. A fantastic adventure, just don't do it in 30deg heat like we did. Take plenty of slings/alpine draws. I added a new screwgate to backrope the traverse and downclimb on p2, so please leave it there and maybe think about adding new tat

danieleaston 18/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2. So much fun, climbing the spikes was great. Final pitch very good too. Very hot, saw a balloon ditch on the other side, and a battleship going down the Avon

with Steve
Hugobristol 14/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Great positions.

with Eleanor
EC 14/Jul/16 2nd
with Hugo
WillAndrew 06/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Ali
ali.scott 06/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

p1 & 3 (in the dark - final traverse pretty pumpy when you can't see your feet properly!). Good little adventure.

Hidden 24/Apr/16 AltLd
Mike Roger ??/2016 Lead
Rob Moorcroft 05/Sep/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
sheelba 01/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Did what i believe to be a superior line, more in line with the character of the route and good for those who didn't get their fill of down climbing fill after the second pitch or can't route find for toffee. Firstly I presume I went too far on the first pitch, having not come across the peg belay (is it still there?) and ended up belaying awkwardly next to the insitu wire before the down climb. Annoyingly I seem to have left my screwgate in the wire (it was swag anyway). This left Nick with a convoluted way of doing a very short pitch. Then on the final pitch I was enticed off the (very bloody obviously right way) traverse by chalkmarks on the left. Downclimbed, did a crazy 'no hands' lunge (5b/c maybe?) to the left to enter the finishing corner of Lich Gates and climbed up that. Altogether making a satisfying w shape with the route. Nick wisely decided to follow along the normal route and downclimb for the gear.

with Nick
nickwhimster 01/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Slick 24/Jun/15 AltLd
katherinesydney 14/Jun/15 2nd dog

I want to kiss the person who left the cord to back-rope the traverse.

with neil morbey
evhall 06/Jun/15 AltLd rpt

A stuck wire and associated thread above P2 is very fine protection for your 2nd... attacked by jackdaws on p3 - actually flew into me!

with colin
Hidden 06/Dec/14 Lead
Kemics 26/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Climbing festival. Bailed due to extreme heat! Finished up something easy, also the first bit of pitch two seemed extremely serious to second? Potential slip would mean a serious 20+ meter fall. That or I missed all the gear with heat stroke

with Mel
Melonfly 26/Jul/14 2nd dnf
with Caleb
RichardN ?/May/14 2nd O/S
pheotleyr 22/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Entertaining. Led last pitch.

with Alex
Alex Winter 22/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

A poor man's Pink Wall Direct. The climbing it shares is fun, the climbing it doesn't is crap.

with Peter H
mike mo ??/2014 -
Mark Warnett 15/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Poor climbing except for a couple of moves on the last pitch, good positions inevitably spoilt by the road!

alastairbegley 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant!

zcsharp 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
blaza1 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
BeccaSnowden 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Combined with the corner. Urban mountaineering at its best! (Led pitch 2)

with Alex Blaza
Cheese Monkey 03/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

P2, quality climb, excellent fun! P3 was excellent, just too short

with Iggy
squicky 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Great climb. Got lost on P1,P2 was great fun, gunning up the bars and P3 was splendid, airy climbing.

with Ben
joedoherty 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
dobby 200 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 3 2nd pitch felt like a lead even through I was seconding! Final pitch was fun

Stanners 15/Feb/13 AltLd rpt

this time iron spike pitch - good afternoon in the sun.

Quarryboy 15/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

Cool route, interestingly you actually cover very little distance despite lots of climbing. The final pitch can be a tad pumpy if you hang around for too long but isn't really that bad.

Hidden ??/2013 -
Pete Rigby 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 22/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/12 AltLd
Chris Sansum 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Did a variant on the last pitch - traversed low & then climbed up. More technical, but less pumpy and more protected when you needed it. Chris p1, 3, Rory p2.

ruaidh 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Route not obvious on P1. Two crucial footholds unlocked the traverse on the last pitch.

alidixon 15/Jul/12 -

led 1st & 3rd

HarryB 29/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Really varied climbing! No 5a moves though, HVS 4c, just very pumpy. Last day before bird ban comes back in!

with Al
scorpia97 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Incredible route! Lead 2nd pitch.

with Caspian
Hidden 22/Aug/11 AltLd
andy dunn 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with J
Stanley 19/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Stanners 19/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and p3. What an exciting evening! Very exposed with unusual downclimbing which was worrying to second.

with Martin Stanfield
Hidden ??/2010 -
ian d f ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Pete H
mark89 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
fragglerock 08/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

P1 - DL P2/3 (As one pitch) - J

with justin
fragglerock 08/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

I led the first 15m to belay on pegs in the corner. Justin led through the rest of the route. Finished in the dark, topping out through a headwall of gorse bushes!

with justin
evhall 11/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
with Fletch + Goat
greedo 11/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Led the spikes pitch.

with Matt goater
Paz 06/Aug/08 AltLd rpt

Tried to free the bit past the spikes seconding, but fell off again off the move to the crumbly break! Not easy for 5c at all. Got the move second go.

with WG
Hidden 06/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/08 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 03/May/08 Lead O/S

very nice route, bit of a high altitude adventure. P2 not to be taken lightly though. Thought it was harder than 4b and serious to second.

with Francis
Francis Lister 03/May/08 2nd
maresia 17/Nov/07 2nd O/S

Move quickly through the hand traverse!

Hidden 01/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
TimPerkin 14/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 is as hard to second as to lead due to down climbing.

with Dave Gale
Marti999 06/Apr/07 AltLd
Hidden 14/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 21/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Joe
gimmer ??/2007 -
sdi 03/May/06 AltLd
with James B
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Andy Wylie
Marcus ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
tom.e ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Lev 23/Nov/04 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Bitmead
Hidden ?/Nov/04 AltLd O/S
Digger 09/Jul/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
Paz ?/Jul/03 AltLd rpt
with CC
IceMonkey1982 ??/2003 -
Hidden 08/Sep/02 AltLd
Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
Paz ?/Nov/01 AltLd dnf

retreated from about 5m below the top - pumped and benighted.

with AR
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Billg ??/2000 -
mikej 21/Oct/95 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
AndySL 27/Aug/95 AltLd O/S

I led odds, Mark led second pitch. Third pitch is tremendous.

with Mark
Hidden 13/Aug/89 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/89 Lead
clark alston ?/Feb/88 AltLd O/S
with Alan Pow
Bullybones ??/1988 Lead
Pete Nugent ??/1988 Lead β
RichardMc 10/May/87 AltLd O/S
with Pete Stokes
mark-abz 20/Oct/85 2nd
with Charlie G
JamieAyres ?/Jul/85 AltLd O/S

lassoed top spike with a sling and pulled. led traverse off aerodrome - 2nd peg fun to clip

with Mark Hopkins
rob.grafton ??/1985 Lead
with sarah matson
Brian Wilderspin 29/Nov/83 AltLd
with Walter Phipps
TonyF 01/May/83 Lead
with Paul Harrison
The Reaper 17/Apr/83 AltLd O/S
andy gittins ??/1983 -
John Marsland ?/Sep/82 Lead
with Nick Ward
stp 07/Mar/82 AltLd O/S

Lead pitchs 1 and 3.

Nic Robinson 01/Sep/81 Lead O/S
with Richard Dickenson
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/80 2nd
with Brian Wyvill
Hidden ??/1980 -
peterbeaumont ??/1980 -
duncan ?/Jul/79 AltLd O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1979 Lead O/S
with Nick Stoughton, Martin Roberts
Steve Lewis 08/Sep/78 AltLd O/S
with Pat
Hidden 01/Jul/78 2nd O/S
Brian Wilderspin ?/Aug/77 AltLd
Rob Davies 30/Jan/77 Lead dnf

Backed off P2 - wet and intimidating

with Anne Vowles (CUMC)
jon 11/Jul/72 AltLd
with roger b
Hidden ??/1966 AltLd
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set