Rockfax Description
Tucked away high above the traffic on the extreme left of the Unknown Wall is this exciting and very exposed pitch. Approach via a path that rises up leftwards under the wall from the base of the face. Follow the path for 100m to a final steep step which ends at a good ledge and small tree-belay on the right, with a cave 5m above and right.
Move up a small rib to a spike at its top and step right to a ledge beneath the left side of the overhung cave. Climb very steeply through the overhang on loose looking, but good solid holds to a small tree. Move up to a peg and then follow thin cracks to the top. © Rockfax

M Putnam, P Hicks, P Todd 16/Oct/1972

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist.

hutchay 06/Oct/17 Lead O/S
danieleaston 02/Sep/17 Lead rpt
with Jake
JGriffiths 02/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with Dan E
Jim blackford 14/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Approach is poor. Route is really good and bang on for hvs

BrizzleChris 14/Jul/17 2nd dog
ali.scott 25/May/17 Lead O/S

ab in was a bit shit (wrong place, then ropes stuck), but the route itself was ace. warm rock in the evening sun. :-)

WillAndrew 24/May/17 2nd O/S

Abseil in was, interesting.. If anyone finds a metolius nut key on the belay ledge, its return will be rewarded with beer(s)

with Ali
mcrispin 08/May/17 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 03/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Good climb, shame about the approach.

with Nathan
Nathan Chrismas 03/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Top felt mad exposed even on second. Nice little adventure.

danieleaston 31/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Saz
saz_b 31/Aug/16 Lead β

Ab'd in to avoid the scramble, 2nd attempt after being rained away previous week. Great moves all the way up, steep climbing throughout in a nice location. Took my time working out the roof but was easier than it looked once I committed. Sustained climbing after that on great flow stone. Deserves 2.5*

with daniel easton, Dan Easton
mossrug 17/Aug/16 Lead dnf

Had to back climb from about 20m because it was getting dark. Quite strenuous all round but really great route so will be back. Who knows maybe my screw gate will still be there :-)

with Kate
Gingerlings 17/Aug/16 2nd
with mossrug
Steve Bartle 05/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Shh, don't tell anyone how good this is ;) Oh, and check your body for ticks afterwards, I've had one each time I've come to this bit - this time it had latched onto to a sensitive spot!

danieleaston 05/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Fantastic, abseil approach recommended.

with Steve
Hidden 25/Jun/16 2nd
Bristol_Quornstar 26/May/16 Lead O/S

Route itself is lovely and has a nice view. Fun overhang move felt bang on for 5a. Shame about the approach though - needs a lot of care and could do with a in situ rope to pull up the 'final steep step' as quoted in guide.

with Sverre Aarseth Tunstad, Sam de Belder
Sverre Aarseth Tunstad 26/May/16 2nd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Kemics 22/Nov/15 Lead O/S

Approach was pretty harrowing pulling on ivy. Moving through the roof is pretty wild. Very steep and big holds and then sustained but easy climbing to the top. Very cool route.

with Pete
Lil_Pete 22/Nov/15 2nd β

Nice finish for the day, although the scramble to the beginning of the route felt more menacing than anything else we'd climbed today!

with Caleb
Alex Winter 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Really nice pitch, with great flowstone higher up -- some of the best rock in the gorge. Tricky getting up there though with all the rock debris. Stripped it on ab with a couple of ice lollies stuffed down my t-shirt.

with Lockie
steve_gibbs 23/May/15 2nd rpt
zcsharp 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Lead with bag on to get the sweet, sweet ice cream at the top!

richardashe 07/May/15 2nd O/S
Graham Westbrook 07/May/15 Lead O/S

Loose approach. Climb was dusty but ok. Needs more traffic

danmullett 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ruaidh 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Bit of a heave-ho, but not bad (high left step up!). Great climbing in the upper reaches. Abseil approach would work best, given debris and vegetated ledge.

with Ben
Andrew Sloan 14/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Got up to the peg under the roof, but for the life of me couldn't see a way through. Down climbed.

Cheese Monkey 14/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Neil, Ian M
Ian Miller 14/Dec/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
WKaufhold 27/Aug/13 2nd
bryan61 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with berny
steve_gibbs 31/May/13 Lead O/S
Neil Morbey 06/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Straightforward HVS, which i was surprised at given the description. The rubble from the rockfall to the left made access very awkward.

with Alastair
alastairbegley 06/Jan/13 2nd O/S
Jonnie Watkins ??/2013 -
jcw ??/2013 -
Katherine Ross 12/Oct/12 Lead dnf

Gave this a good go but it turned out I was just missing the jug on the overhang. First time on 2nd once I'd seen where it was!

Katherine Ross 12/Oct/12 2nd β
with Andrew Atkinson, Charlie Beard
cbeard 12/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Andrew Atkinson, Katherine Ross
No? Yes! 11/Sep/12 Lead
with Andrew
shoulders 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 05/Sep/12 Lead
katherinesydney 05/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Delightful. Not the prettiest name though, eh

Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
kelliroberts3 28/May/12 Lead
Ragingpossum 27/May/12 Lead β

Comfortable lead after previously seconding it twice before.

with cbeard
cbeard 27/May/12 2nd O/S

A new Avon HVS favorite. Quality climbing all the way through.

mandy 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with elf
TDSvejstrup 12/May/12 2nd O/S
mchandy 12/May/12 2nd O/S
HarryB 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Matt, Danish
Quarryboy 02/Apr/12 2nd rpt

Felt retardedly difficult trying to do this in trainers.

Stanners 02/Apr/12 2nd rpt

Hung on an ab-rope to take pics and then seconded. Good effort James.

with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
JamesRich 02/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic route! The protection is good, but committing on the overhang is a bit intimidating. The top is superb.

LouiseP 11/Feb/12 2nd dog
with Ross
Hidden 11/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Ragingpossum 01/Feb/12 2nd rpt
Nick Russell 28/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Graeme
dbm 28/Jan/12 2nd dog
with Martin Grenfell
halfwaythere 20/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with dan
abtibbs ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack Verber
Hidden 30/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Ragingpossum 30/Nov/11 2nd dog

got rather pumped for some reason, but really fun climb

with will attridge
georgeevans88 27/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Alex P
aipattison 27/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Finally! Wanted to do this for years. Thought it was soft for HVS. Roof is easier than it looks and the wall above is interesting & well protected.

Hidden 26/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Oct/11 Lead O/S
dan ely 23/Oct/11 2nd O/S

watch where you app from, we didnt and i remember it for that alone

with jon (ukc reading)
berndl 09/Oct/11 2nd
halfwaythere 07/Oct/11 Lead O/S

abbed off into thorn bushes. Ab 5 metres to right of exit at top is clean.

squicky 05/Oct/11 2nd dog

Messed up the hand sequence on the overhang and got stuck in the cave. Did it clean starting pretty much from the bottom.

with Aaron
Aaron Lines 05/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with iggy
evhall 02/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with jerzy
Stanners 17/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Did in a gap in the rain showers, and so glad I did. 2.5* route with great gear and plenty of chill out positions. VS experience with a soft 5a move on overhang. Thanks for taking all my stuff jack!

Quarryboy 17/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Jesus Christ, Got caught in an absolute blizzard halfway up! Rob left his jumper, trainers and helmet on the ledge so I had to carry it up with me on the back of my harness which made me feel pretty bulky. Wearing thick hiking socks with my climbing shoes meant it was nearly impossible to stand accurately on small footholds which caused me to cut lose at least 3 times when hauling my way over the lip of the overhang. Made for a pretty fricking epic experience though and one I will remember for a long time.

Mark Davies PK 15/Jul/11 TR rpt

felt like VS 5a to me

with Mr Shunt
andy dunn 12/Jul/11 2nd
with Darren
Didymus 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lovely Avon flowstone; how the gorge must have looked once. Awkward abseil.

with Ra
Dave Ing 03/Jun/11 Lead dnf

Fell twice from the crux. Very disappointing, had missed a jug pocket.

with Andy D
Dave Ing 03/Jun/11 2nd β

Clean after falling twice from the crux on lead.

with Andy D
andy dunn 03/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with dave
Garrouli 19/May/11 Lead O/S
with Matt
Phil PBC ?/May/11 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
andy dunn 22/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Alan
Chris Sansum 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Climbed after backing off the roof on a previous occasion. Nice to complete it, even if it took a while to work out the move past the roof.

with Gary Lewin
Clay C 03/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Seb
Johnny Baker ??/2011 -
with Derek Toulalan, Dave Webster
31770 ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
thomasadixon 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Very good, awesome roof.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Really steep and difficult roof - I cheated and got tom to go up and sling the tree so I had gear above me. Rest of the route was awesome!

with Tom
LisaA 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Nice featured flowstone

with Marti
Marti999 09/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Lisa
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
nigsims 22/Jun/10 2nd dog
with Nig Caton
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
andy dunn 18/May/10 Lead O/S

interesting moves out over the roof (felt like the crux to me). Followed by some great climbing on flowstone. Straightforward, good gear placements are wherever you want them. All in all a graeat route and well deserving of 2*

with J
Hidden 12/May/10 Lead O/S
simonf 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Jane, Chris
Hidden 20/Apr/10 Lead
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
sweenyt 03/Mar/10 Lead rpt

Not sure why, but was totally terrified!

with UBMC
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
markfromstoke 25/Sep/09 2nd
with Ian
ian d f 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Mark
Chris Sansum 19/Sep/09 2nd dnf

Gary attempted leading - but backed off the overhang (I had done the same last weekend too, after trying it knackered). We'll be back!

with Gary Lewin
Chris Sansum 13/Sep/09 Lead dnf

Didn't feel like committing to the overhang move as a bit knackered after trip to Scotland and a long bouldering traverse earlier, so downclimbed.

with Gary Lewin
maffujones 27/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Jamie T
simon kimber 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hanski 12/Jun/09 2nd
Dr Caterpillar 11/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Mar/09 2nd rpt
Richard Hall ?/Jan/09 -
Mckenzie 19/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Henry
Hidden 07/Dec/08 2nd O/S
scorpia97 07/Dec/08 Lead O/S

pleasant climbing

with Caspian
Protheroe 26/Nov/08 Lead O/S


with Dave Radley
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/08 Lead O/S
cornishben 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
Al Franks 26/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with Alan Sage
RagingPuffin 26/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with Alan Sage
Hidden 28/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/08 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 18/May/08 2nd O/S

didn't feel as hard as i've heard people say it does. Very good climb throughout

with Francis
Francis Lister 18/May/08 Lead O/S

First lead went well good gear for climbing overhang watch sapling if climbing with two ropes

evhall 13/May/08 Lead O/S
with Cutts
Greg Pittam 08/May/08 Lead O/S

Wicked Climb, Overhang was daunting but easy on big holds :)

with Sam Howel
Hidden 03/May/08 Lead rpt
Al Franks 18/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Rob Horton
RagingPuffin 18/Mar/08 Lead O/S
with Rob Horton
bpmclimb 26/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 26/Feb/08 2nd
Hidden 17/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Humpty Dangler 14/Oct/07 2nd dog

Single pitch, sustained and physical. It starts with a pull-up over a shattered overhang; plenty of protection for the heave up and over on one good hand-hold and (ahem) a small sapling. The rest of the route is less spectacular but steep on smaller holds than would have been comfortable and good quality pocket footholds. The plentiful availability of protection qualifies the grade. I was getting tired by the top and had to grab a quickdraw to regain my balance, so can't claim a clean second but was pretty close. Not sure I'm ready to lead this yet. Abseil descent included an 'upside down in a bramble bush', mini adventure.

Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/07 2nd
Hidden 17/May/07 Lead O/S
django ?/May/07 2nd O/S
with John Rowe
Bristoldave 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S

A really good route.

with Neil Ferguson
Paz 10/Mar/07 2nd rpt
with CC
Stone Muppet ??/2007 -
maresia 16/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Fat Tim 07/Apr/06 Lead O/S
sdi ??/2006 2nd O/S

I whined like a girl when an ant or something bit my finger just above the roof...

with Tom K
beardy mike ??/2006 -
IceMonkey1982 ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 -
Paz 18/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with ML
MagnusL 18/Mar/05 2nd dog

Squirt! Steep, strenuous, exposed, overhanging, I asked for a panicky epic and got it.

Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2005 2nd
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Jack G
greedo 27/May/04 Lead O/S
with Matt goater
Boxy 28/Feb/04 Lead O/S
with Mick
Lev 11/Feb/04 2nd O/S
with Gareth Cokell
Hidden ?/Feb/04 2nd O/S
tom.e ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 18/Nov/01 Lead O/S
with Liz Cant, Rich
richsmithinbristol 18/Nov/01 2nd
gimmer ??/2001 -
Hidden ?/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2000 -
with John Southworth
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
richsmithinbristol 11/Feb/98 Lead O/S
Johnny Rowland 18/Jun/95 Lead O/S
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
tompercy 17/Dec/94 Lead
with Joel Telling
chris sm 16/Oct/94 2nd O/S
with Martin Sime
Hidden 14/Aug/89 2nd O/S
surfbish ?/Mar/89 Lead O/S
pete johnson ??/1985 -
JamieAyres ??/1985 Lead O/S
with Peter Rickard
duncan ??/1983 Solo
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 48
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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