Rockfax Description
Tucked away high above the traffic on the extreme left of the Unknown Wall is this exciting and very exposed pitch. Approach via a vegetated path that rises up leftwards under the wall from the base of the face. Follow the path for 100m to a final steep step which ends at a good vegetated ledge and small tree belay on the right, with a cave 5m above and right. Move up a small rib to a spike at its top and step right to a ledge beneath the left side of the overhung cave. Climb very steeply through the overhang on loose looking, but good solid holds to a small tree. Move up to a peg and then follow thin cracks to the top. © Rockfax
M Putnam, P Hicks, P Todd 16/Oct/1972.
Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , 2020/21 Trips , Avon HVS challenge , Avon Gorge VS - E1
User | Date | Notes | ||
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kirksmim | 13 Jul |
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βeta: Very fun climb, easy to protect the crux and the rest fairly straight forwards. Couldn't find any stakes though. Definitely didn't lower off the railings... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very fun climb, easy to protect the crux and the rest fairly straight forwards. Couldn't find any stakes though. Definitely didn't lower off the railings... |
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Slipmatt17 | 6 May |
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βeta: Great little climb, short steep section w some good protection and jugs. Upper slab stays interesting throughout with good gear. Sunset top out, what more could you want! Hard work bush wacking getting to the start though from the bottom - maybe worth trying to figure out and abseil down. Started slightly to the left of tree as less veg clearance required. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great little climb, short steep section w some good protection and jugs. Upper slab stays interesting throughout with good gear. Sunset top out, what more could you want! Hard work bush wacking getting to the start though from the bottom - maybe worth trying to figure out and abseil down. Started slightly to the left of tree as less veg clearance required. |
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jwtbids | 26 Oct, 2024 |
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βeta: Pulled off a huge chunk of rock 2m from top out | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pulled off a huge chunk of rock 2m from top out |
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Mthr | 19 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Cleared the belay ledge (tree + micro wire belay, could do with a peg) and the route. Slightly sketchy approach but well worth seeking out! | ||
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βeta: Cleared the belay ledge (tree + micro wire belay, could do with a peg) and the route. Slightly sketchy approach but well worth seeking out! |
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PaulJepson | 19 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Couldn\'t find any bolt to ab off but the two stakes are there. One is solid, the other is very wobbly, so make sure you equalise them properly. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Couldn't find any bolt to ab off but the two stakes are there. One is solid, the other is very wobbly, so make sure you equalise them properly. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))