UKC

25m.

Rockfax Description
Tucked away high above the traffic on the extreme left of the Unknown Wall is this exciting and very exposed pitch. Approach via a vegetated path that rises up leftwards under the wall from the base of the face. Follow the path for 100m to a final steep step which ends at a good vegetated ledge and small tree belay on the right, with a cave 5m above and right. Move up a small rib to a spike at its top and step right to a ledge beneath the left side of the overhung cave. Climb very steeply through the overhang on loose looking, but good solid holds to a small tree. Move up to a peg and then follow thin cracks to the top. © Rockfax

M Putnam, P Hicks, P Todd 16/Oct/1972.

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , West Country Climbs , George's Evening Gorge Ticklist , CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , 2020/21 Trips , Avon HVS challenge , Avon Gorge VS - E1

Feedback

User Date Notes
kirksmim 13 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Very fun climb, easy to protect the crux and the rest fairly straight forwards. Couldn't find any stakes though. Definitely didn't lower off the railings...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very fun climb, easy to protect the crux and the rest fairly straight forwards. Couldn't find any stakes though. Definitely didn't lower off the railings...
Slipmatt17 6 May Show βeta
βeta: Great little climb, short steep section w some good protection and jugs. Upper slab stays interesting throughout with good gear. Sunset top out, what more could you want! Hard work bush wacking getting to the start though from the bottom - maybe worth trying to figure out and abseil down. Started slightly to the left of tree as less veg clearance required.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great little climb, short steep section w some good protection and jugs. Upper slab stays interesting throughout with good gear. Sunset top out, what more could you want! Hard work bush wacking getting to the start though from the bottom - maybe worth trying to figure out and abseil down. Started slightly to the left of tree as less veg clearance required.
jwtbids 26 Oct, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Pulled off a huge chunk of rock 2m from top out
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pulled off a huge chunk of rock 2m from top out
Mthr 19 May, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Cleared the belay ledge (tree + micro wire belay, could do with a peg) and the route. Slightly sketchy approach but well worth seeking out!
Show beta
βeta: Cleared the belay ledge (tree + micro wire belay, could do with a peg) and the route. Slightly sketchy approach but well worth seeking out!
PaulJepson 19 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn\'t find any bolt to ab off but the two stakes are there. One is solid, the other is very wobbly, so make sure you equalise them properly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couldn't find any bolt to ab off but the two stakes are there. One is solid, the other is very wobbly, so make sure you equalise them properly.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 61
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 58
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hell Gates

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Avon Gorge (Suspension Bridge Area))

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