Rockfax Description
A sport-style single pitch up the wall right of the diagonal break of Amanita Muscarina's third pitch. Start from the bolted belay at the start of the third pitch of Tour de France that is best reached via an awkward abseil from the top of the ramp or by starting up the lower pitches of Tour de France. Protection is provided by a collection of bolts, pegs and a large cam. On the left take the thin wall past a break and up a crack to a ledge (cam). The wall above leads to a thin break from where a move utilising a slot reaches a sequence of hard moves right to finish at a bolted belay. Abseil off or top out. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Fine sustained climbing up a blank wall. Since 2014 there is a proper lower off (reachable by bolts in rock just below the railings), 7 glue-in bolts and a 2 bolt hanging belay.(bolts provided by BMC) The lower easy section previously required cams but is now fully bolted.
G Gibson Jan/1986.
Ticklists
James's Bristol 7c's , 7Cs with stars near Bristol , Avon Gorge Sport Routes , Best of Bristol Sport , Chepstow 7c - 8a+ , The Essential Bristol Hard Man's Ticks , Favourite wall climbs , Avon and Cheddar Top One Hundred
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Thin Boyz | 10 Jun, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: If making your own gear anchor for TR solo, don't use cams behind the large flake left of the headwall as it moves and is not attached to the cliff. Medium cams in the crack on the ledge above (to the left of an old universal piton) are just as good and still allow the rope to hang on the left hand side of the route. Detailed beta sheet can be found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1191AwgaTHRSAtZDxDvyKbUAyv74oTwLM/view?usp=sharing | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: If making your own gear anchor for TR solo, don't use cams behind the large flake left of the headwall as it moves and is not attached to the cliff. Medium cams in the crack on the ledge above (to the left of an old universal piton) are just as good and still allow the rope to hang on the left hand side of the route. Detailed beta sheet can be found here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1191AwgaTHRSAtZDxDvyKbUAyv74oTwLM/view?usp=sharing |
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| John Alcock | 24 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Someone has recently added 2 bolts in apparently solid rock on the ledges above the route so you can now abseil directly down the route without using the railings to get to the hanging belay. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Someone has recently added 2 bolts in apparently solid rock on the ledges above the route so you can now abseil directly down the route without using the railings to get to the hanging belay. |
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| Oscar Popels | 13 Nov, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitely 7c+ not E6. Doesn't deserve E6 for placing a cam on the hvs crack at the bottom... | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Definitely 7c+ not E6. Doesn't deserve E6 for placing a cam on the hvs crack at the bottom... |
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| eric_in_cheddar | 23 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: This year there is a bird ban in place due to nesting peregrines: 22 March to 15 July 2022. See the BMC RAD https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=332 | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This year there is a bird ban in place due to nesting peregrines: 22 March to 15 July 2022. See the BMC RAD https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=332 |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area)
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Cornice Cream
Grade: 7c+ ***
(Charlcombe Cornice)