Rockfax Description
Take a few small wires, although the bulk of the hard climbing is bolt protected. Start on blocks below a thin left-slanting seam.
Follow the thin, left-slanting seam (wires) until just before a big flake-crack that comes in from the left. Now follow the line of bolts rightwards up a shallow depression to a steep finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Best climb on the crag, a real gem.
The diagonal line, starting on the left wall to the slab.
First clip is high and a hard move just below it, so either stickclip or use a small wire near the start.
Worth doing at this grade.

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
smile youve won 11 Apr 2nd dog Rescue mission for gear, did the first quarter clean, then dogged the rest. Felt pretty hard and thin on the slab
Rescue mission for gear, did the first quarter clean, then dogged the rest. Felt pretty hard and thin on the slab
Tom Heslam ?Jan Lead rpt
oldmanrivers ?? - Bailed top section, unfinished business
Bailed top section, unfinished business
Hidden ?? Lead dog
Jamie Skelton 24 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Nearly few slips, hard to work out which tiny holds to use on an onsight didn’t mind all the holds you shouldn’t use falling off, awesome climbing but a very weird de-laminating wall, Next time!
Nearly few slips, hard to work out which tiny holds to use on an onsight didn’t mind all the holds you shouldn’t use falling off, awesome climbing but a very weird de-laminating wall, Next time!
Rob Houston ??, 2018 -
Stanners 9 Jun, 2017 Lead dog Thought id give it a go after putting it off for several years. I believe my experience agreed with many others. Very hard to do a proper onsight with no chalk anywhere but managed all the moves. Perplexed at the start of the rightwards moves and fell several times above there. A characterful climb which is unique to each ascent given the nature of the rock! On reflection its a pretty cool route but 2 stars from me! (handed one over to token gesture) Will probably drag myself back up there given its my local crag!
with James Rich
Thought id give it a go after putting it off for several years. I believe my experience agreed with many others. Very hard to do a proper onsight with no chalk anywhere but managed all the moves. Perplexed at the start of the rightwards moves and fell several times above there. A characterful climb which is unique to each ascent given the nature of the rock! On reflection its a pretty cool route but 2 stars from me! (handed one over to token gesture) Will probably drag myself back up there given its my local crag!
with James Rich
Hidden 1 Jan, 2017 Lead
Hidden 23 Oct, 2016 Lead dog
David Clover ?Jul, 2016 Lead dog
frkm2000 19 Apr, 2016 Lead dnf Only had a 50m and was running out of time so my advice would be climb to the top and then the belayer seconds to strip the gear. Will be back to complete this.
Only had a 50m and was running out of time so my advice would be climb to the top and then the belayer seconds to strip the gear. Will be back to complete this.
miriamclaire 17 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
julesmckim 31 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S Brilliant route and a great experience today. The temporary nature of some of the holds adds to it! Some technical sections but with good rests in between. I'll take the E4 or is it 7a or both? Wires early on are very good and not too bold to place. Great finish: steeper and still tricky.
with GeoMike
Brilliant route and a great experience today. The temporary nature of some of the holds adds to it! Some technical sections but with good rests in between. I'll take the E4 or is it 7a or both? Wires early on are very good and not too bold to place. Great finish: steeper and still tricky.
with GeoMike
Tom Heslam ?Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
Cheese Monkey 8 Jan, 2016 Lead dnf Couldnt work out the 2nd crux. Nails! But very very good.
Couldnt work out the 2nd crux. Nails! But very very good.
Colin Knowles 8 Jan, 2016 2nd
Tom Seccombe 3 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with Hernan (Chilli)
with Hernan (Chilli)
guy xavier percival 28 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S I think I rested on the rope high up when I tried this about 25 years ago. How is it that a 3 star classic is still shedding loads of rock?
with paul
I think I rested on the rope high up when I tried this about 25 years ago. How is it that a 3 star classic is still shedding loads of rock?
with paul
Deary65 9 Jul, 2015 2nd dog Great route! New hands and feet each time as rock is delicate and flakes off.
Great route! New hands and feet each time as rock is delicate and flakes off.
Snot 3 Jul, 2015 Lead dog Lots of faffing and broken footholds. Definitely worth bringing a second who's in the mood to follow you as abbing for the gear is pretty awkward and probably quite dangerous.
with Bobb
Lots of faffing and broken footholds. Definitely worth bringing a second who's in the mood to follow you as abbing for the gear is pretty awkward and probably quite dangerous.
with Bobb
philhilo 27 Jun, 2015 2nd dog Tried to lead it, nearly made it through the crux sequence but foot off and into the gully. Time dictated handing over to Misha after I could not get as far on the 2nd and 3rd goes. Hand and footholds coming off constantly, crux jug going next, must be a different grade after each ascent! Nice moves but chossfest.
with Misha
Tried to lead it, nearly made it through the crux sequence but foot off and into the gully. Time dictated handing over to Misha after I could not get as far on the 2nd and 3rd goes. Hand and footholds coming off constantly, crux jug going next, must be a different grade after each ascent! Nice moves but chossfest.
with Misha
Misha 27 Jun, 2015 Lead dog Fell off when an undercut broke going past the fourth bolt, annoying as could have used a better one instead. Pulled back up and finished it. A good line and some decent climbing but what a pile of crappy choss! The rock continually sheds small flakes whenever you touch anything that isn't a well used hold and as I found out some of the holds you do use aren't great either. Incredible really given it's had a decent amount of traffic. Anyone who thinks this is a three star route needs to climb on some good rock! One star at most in my book. Instead of wasting time on this, should have carried on to Sharpnose earlier, would have had more time there on proper three star routes! Abbed off the old bolt (needs a back up really), a 60m rope gets you to the floor. My first and last visit to Portishead Quarry...
Fell off when an undercut broke going past the fourth bolt, annoying as could have used a better one instead. Pulled back up and finished it. A good line and some decent climbing but what a pile of crappy choss! The rock continually sheds small flakes whenever you touch anything that isn't a well used hold and as I found out some of the holds you do use aren't great either. Incredible really given it's had a decent amount of traffic. Anyone who thinks this is a three star route needs to climb on some good rock! One star at most in my book. Instead of wasting time on this, should have carried on to Sharpnose earlier, would have had more time there on proper three star routes! Abbed off the old bolt (needs a back up really), a 60m rope gets you to the floor. My first and last visit to Portishead Quarry...
rurp 12 May, 2015 Lead dnf To crux, unnerved as needed to use 6th choice hold on lower crux as the first 5 fell off! Lowered off bolt Bring clipstick next time
To crux, unnerved as needed to use 6th choice hold on lower crux as the first 5 fell off! Lowered off bolt Bring clipstick next time
Hidden 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
pablosordo ??, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 9 Nov, 2014 Lead dnf
BenWilliams96 9 Jul, 2014 Lead β
Mike Goldthorp 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S Super unusual sport climbing, most of the actual holds feel pretty solid now, just flaky bits around and about, doesn't detract atall from the sublime sequences! The crux rockover after the niche took a while to suss out, pretty blank and thin, and after that it's just steady and joyous all the way to the top!
with Adam
Super unusual sport climbing, most of the actual holds feel pretty solid now, just flaky bits around and about, doesn't detract atall from the sublime sequences! The crux rockover after the niche took a while to suss out, pretty blank and thin, and after that it's just steady and joyous all the way to the top!
with Adam
bpmclimb 24 Feb, 2014 TR β Lots of very loose small flakes - far more than before. First ascent after the winter?
with Shunt
Lots of very loose small flakes - far more than before. First ascent after the winter?
with Shunt
Nick Russell 25 Jun, 2013 Lead dnf I found this hard right from the start, with difficulty reading the moves. Had a couple of goes at the move above the third bolt, then retreated. Need to come back with a better attitude.
I found this hard right from the start, with difficulty reading the moves. Had a couple of goes at the move above the third bolt, then retreated. Need to come back with a better attitude.
Mike_Hayes 1 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S E4 6a in guide - i'd say E4 6b would be right. Full on sustained snappy climbing which would be tough Fr7a somewhere else. Felt like a trad route especially with the snappy holds, addded to the overal experience though. Dont ab off as it's a pain the in the arse.
E4 6a in guide - i'd say E4 6b would be right. Full on sustained snappy climbing which would be tough Fr7a somewhere else. Felt like a trad route especially with the snappy holds, addded to the overal experience though. Dont ab off as it's a pain the in the arse.
Hidden 20 Oct, 2012 Lead dnf
tobydunford 15 Sep, 2012 Lead RP
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
BeccaSnowden 8 Sep, 2012 Lead RP Almost got on first attempt. Felt like top end 7a. Very good route.
Almost got on first attempt. Felt like top end 7a. Very good route.
thomasadixon 8 Sep, 2012 Lead dog Should have got this really, guess I'll have to come back! Good climbing, definately 7a (E4's the right grade though...).
Should have got this really, guess I'll have to come back! Good climbing, definately 7a (E4's the right grade though...).
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 Lead dog
KRB 1 Jul, 2012 Lead rpt With a sadistic view to testing out his holding-a-fall belay technique, Ollie forced me into trying A Route For The People – which turned out not to be, for me at least! After a brave effort, which included changing boots whilst dangling from a bolt, I gave up and worked my way back to the first crack to head up Highway One instead. Memory fades, but 11 years since I last did this I’m sure that a vital fingernail flake on the 2nd crux has gone making it more of a challenge now than the original guidebook 6a. The top flake crack was wet but was a romp compared to dealing with the continually erupting ulcerated rock below. An excellent well protected line with holds comparable to the Hogwarts staircases – ever changing.
with Oliver Bridges
With a sadistic view to testing out his holding-a-fall belay technique, Ollie forced me into trying A Route For The People – which turned out not to be, for me at least! After a brave effort, which included changing boots whilst dangling from a bolt, I gave up and worked my way back to the first crack to head up Highway One instead. Memory fades, but 11 years since I last did this I’m sure that a vital fingernail flake on the 2nd crux has gone making it more of a challenge now than the original guidebook 6a. The top flake crack was wet but was a romp compared to dealing with the continually erupting ulcerated rock below. An excellent well protected line with holds comparable to the Hogwarts staircases – ever changing.
with Oliver Bridges
Billg 22 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S Great line and good moves, but let down by the poor rock. Could really do with a new belay.
Great line and good moves, but let down by the poor rock. Could really do with a new belay.
billb ?Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol ?Jul, 2011 Lead
with billb
with billb
Pippa 2 Jun, 2011 Lead Hold came off by the first bolt, rest of it was clean
Hold came off by the first bolt, rest of it was clean
DorsetGareth 2 Jun, 2011 2nd O/S Tough at the grade, also was a little spooked even seconding.
with Pippa
Tough at the grade, also was a little spooked even seconding.
with Pippa
Hidden 25 Apr, 2011 Lead dog
Matt Clifton 7 Nov, 2010 Lead rpt nice slab climbing. prob harder for cellar dwellars but grade right compared to slabs in france
nice slab climbing. prob harder for cellar dwellars but grade right compared to slabs in france
andy dunn 6 Nov, 2010 Lead dnf significantly harder than 6c+
with J
significantly harder than 6c+
with J
Didymus 21 Oct, 2010 2nd dog Snappy - took big lob at the second bolt when hold came off and another pendulum fall on the delicate crux moves out of the niche rest. Hard F6c+. Lead next time.
Snappy - took big lob at the second bolt when hold came off and another pendulum fall on the delicate crux moves out of the niche rest. Hard F6c+. Lead next time.
richiebongo 21 Oct, 2010 Lead RP Lead this about two years ago with one fall and so returned today to put it to bed. It has definitely got harder. I pulled off at least 3 holds on my ascent alone and Jon pulled off another hold seconding it. The crux now is leaving the halfway ledge which is desperate, i'd say English 6b. Good route though.
Lead this about two years ago with one fall and so returned today to put it to bed. It has definitely got harder. I pulled off at least 3 holds on my ascent alone and Jon pulled off another hold seconding it. The crux now is leaving the halfway ledge which is desperate, i'd say English 6b. Good route though.
Hidden 17 Jul, 2010 2nd rpt
Bristoldave 17 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Some pre-placed runners at the start after someone else backed off. Seems like every hold that isn't essential comes off if you touch it. Still *** tho!
with Tom I, pete
Some pre-placed runners at the start after someone else backed off. Seems like every hold that isn't essential comes off if you touch it. Still *** tho!
with Tom I, pete
bpmclimb 28 May, 2010 Lead dog Nearly.
Nearly.
Huntlyfiddler 28 May, 2010 2nd dog
Tom Heslam ??, 2010 Lead rpt
T ny ??, 2010 Lead
T ny ??, 2010 -
Hidden 23 Jul, 2009 Lead dog
belay bunny turned bad 23 Jul, 2009 2nd led to 2nd crux, snapped another hold whilst using it... followed Tim cleanly :) friable
with loundsy
led to 2nd crux, snapped another hold whilst using it... followed Tim cleanly :) friable
with loundsy
richgac ??, 2009 Lead 7a
with Nick
7a
with Nick
Tom Heslam ??, 2009 Lead rpt
chris sm 16 Aug, 2008 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
_m.cox_ ?Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Robyn Nelson
with Robyn Nelson
tcn_2002 15 Apr, 2008 Lead dog
Hidden 19 Jun, 2007 Lead dog
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
just one more 22 Jul, 2005 Lead dog
with tim b
with tim b
Tom Heslam ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
Hidden 7 Oct, 2004 Lead
Hidden 24 Sep, 2004 Lead
Paz ?Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??, 2004 Lead f7a? As an undergrad, so pre-2004
f7a? As an undergrad, so pre-2004
cornishben ??, 2004 Lead dog
with Haggis Harris
with Haggis Harris
Hidden 24 Mar, 2002 2nd O/S
KRB 3 Nov, 2001 Lead β Belayed by my 11 year old son
Belayed by my 11 year old son
shoulders 4 Mar, 2001 Lead
with marric, Cowflinger, dai
with marric, Cowflinger, dai
Tim M ??, 2000 -
John Southworth 21 Nov, 1999 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
with Vicky Munn
John Southworth ?Jun, 1998 2nd
David Slater ?Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
goi.ashmore 6 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
with Alice Howe
Hidden ?May, 1997 Lead O/S
migs493 20 Apr, 1997 Lead O/S First E4
with Steve Blake
First E4
with Steve Blake
Hidden 3 Jun, 1994 -
FATBOYFAT ??, 1994 Lead O/S
duncan ??, 1994 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
Roget 11 Sep, 1993 Lead dog
with jon
with jon
UKB Shark 3 May, 1993 Lead
Hidden 13 Apr, 1993 Lead β
Hidden 13 Apr, 1993 Lead β
mattnuttall 8 Mar, 1993 Lead O/S agreed - it was E4 in 1993 and is probably still E4 judging by comments... see photo of Vickers cruising the Highway.
with Gareth Parry, Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
agreed - it was E4 in 1993 and is probably still E4 judging by comments... see photo of Vickers cruising the Highway.
with Gareth Parry, Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Cowflinger ?Dec, 1992 Lead O/S
Neil McA 11 Oct, 1992 Lead O/S Excellent. And a lot warmer than on the Crow the previous day!!
with Beak 1.
Excellent. And a lot warmer than on the Crow the previous day!!
with Beak 1.
Hidden 9 Aug, 1992 Lead dog
whispering nic ?May, 1992 -
with Graham Iles
with Graham Iles
Eduardo Martinez 28 Dec, 1991 Lead O/S
robbie Warke ??, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1988 Lead O/S
Adrian Gostick ??, 1987 Lead
Steve Lewis 12 Aug, 1984 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
with Alun Richardson
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Pete Ogden ??, 1980 Lead O/S
with Dave Ramsey
with Dave Ramsey
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Voting
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Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 1
High 6b
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Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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Votes cast 2
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set