Rockfax Description
Take a few small wires, although the bulk of the hard climbing is bolt protected. Start on blocks below a thin left-slanting seam.
Follow the thin, left-slanting seam (wires) until just before a big flake-crack that comes in from the left. Now follow the line of bolts rightwards up a shallow depression to a steep finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Best climb on the crag, a real gem.
The diagonal line, starting on the left wall to the slab.
First clip is high and a hard move just below it, so either stickclip or use a small wire near the start.
Worth doing at this grade.

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Stanners 09/Jun Lead dog

Thought id give it a go after putting it off for several years. I believe my experience agreed with many others. Very hard to do a proper onsight with no chalk anywhere but managed all the moves. Perplexed at the start of the rightwards moves and fell several times above there. A characterful climb which is unique to each ascent given the nature of the rock! On reflection its a pretty cool route but 2 stars from me! (handed one over to token gesture) Will probably drag myself back up there given its my local crag!

with James Rich
Hidden 01/Jan Lead
Hidden 23/Oct/16 Lead dog
David Clover ?/Jul/16 Lead dog
frkm2000 19/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Only had a 50m and was running out of time so my advice would be climb to the top and then the belayer seconds to strip the gear. Will be back to complete this.

miriamclaire 17/Apr/16 2nd dog
julesmckim 31/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant route and a great experience today. The temporary nature of some of the holds adds to it! Some technical sections but with good rests in between. I'll take the E4 or is it 7a or both? Wires early on are very good and not too bold to place. Great finish: steeper and still tricky.

Tom Heslam ?/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Bella Jackson
Cheese Monkey 08/Jan/16 Lead dnf

Couldnt work out the 2nd crux. Nails! But very very good.

with Colin
Tom Seccombe 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Hernan (Chilli)
guy xavier percival 28/Aug/15 Lead O/S

I think I rested on the rope high up when I tried this about 25 years ago. How is it that a 3 star classic is still shedding loads of rock?

with paul
Deary65 09/Jul/15 2nd dog

Great route! New hands and feet each time as rock is delicate and flakes off.

Circus 03/Jul/15 Lead dog

Lots of faffing and broken footholds. Definitely worth bringing a second who's in the mood to follow you as abbing for the gear is pretty awkward and probably quite dangerous.

with Seren
philhilo 27/Jun/15 2nd dog

Tried to lead it, nearly made it through the crux sequence but foot off and into the gully. Time dictated handing over to Misha after I could not get as far on the 2nd and 3rd goes. Hand and footholds coming off constantly, crux jug going next, must be a different grade after each ascent! Nice moves but chossfest.

with misha
Misha 27/Jun/15 Lead dog

Fell off when an undercut broke going past the fourth bolt, annoying as could have used a better one instead. Pulled back up and finished it. A good line and some decent climbing but what a pile of crappy choss! The rock continually sheds small flakes whenever you touch anything that isn't a well used hold and as I found out some of the holds you do use aren't great either. Incredible really given it's had a decent amount of traffic. Anyone who thinks this is a three star route needs to climb on some good rock! One star at most in my book. Instead of wasting time on this, should have carried on to Sharpnose earlier, would have had more time there on proper three star routes! Abbed off the old bolt (needs a back up really), a 60m rope gets you to the floor. My first and last visit to Portishead Quarry...

with Phil
rurp 12/May/15 Lead dnf

To crux, unnerved as needed to use 6th choice hold on lower crux as the first 5 fell off! Lowered off bolt Bring clipstick next time

Hidden 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
pablosordo ??/2015 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Nov/14 Lead dnf
BenWilliams96 09/Jul/14 Lead β
Mike Goldthorp 05/May/14 Lead O/S

Super unusual sport climbing, most of the actual holds feel pretty solid now, just flaky bits around and about, doesn't detract atall from the sublime sequences! The crux rockover after the niche took a while to suss out, pretty blank and thin, and after that it's just steady and joyous all the way to the top!

with Adam
bpmclimb 24/Feb/14 TR β

Lots of very loose small flakes - far more than before. First ascent after the winter?

with Shunt
Nick Russell 25/Jun/13 Lead dnf

I found this hard right from the start, with difficulty reading the moves. Had a couple of goes at the move above the third bolt, then retreated. Need to come back with a better attitude.

Mike_Hayes 01/Apr/13 Lead O/S

E4 6a in guide - i'd say E4 6b would be right. Full on sustained snappy climbing which would be tough Fr7a somewhere else. Felt like a trad route especially with the snappy holds, addded to the overal experience though. Dont ab off as it's a pain the in the arse.

Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead dnf
tobydunford 15/Sep/12 Lead RP
with Kirsty Kerr
BeccaSnowden 08/Sep/12 Lead RP

Almost got on first attempt. Felt like top end 7a. Very good route.

with Tom
thomasadixon 08/Sep/12 Lead dog

Should have got this really, guess I'll have to come back! Good climbing, definately 7a (E4's the right grade though...).

with Becca
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead dog
KRB 01/Jul/12 Lead rpt

With a sadistic view to testing out his holding-a-fall belay technique, Ollie forced me into trying A Route For The People – which turned out not to be, for me at least! After a brave effort, which included changing boots whilst dangling from a bolt, I gave up and worked my way back to the first crack to head up Highway One instead. Memory fades, but 11 years since I last did this I’m sure that a vital fingernail flake on the 2nd crux has gone making it more of a challenge now than the original guidebook 6a. The top flake crack was wet but was a romp compared to dealing with the continually erupting ulcerated rock below. An excellent well protected line with holds comparable to the Hogwarts staircases – ever changing.

with Oliver Bridges
Billg 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Great line and good moves, but let down by the poor rock. Could really do with a new belay.

billb ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol ?/Jul/11 Lead
Pippa 02/Jun/11 Lead

Hold came off by the first bolt, rest of it was clean

with Gareth
DorsetGareth 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Tough at the grade, also was a little spooked even seconding.

with Pip
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead dog
Matt Clifton 07/Nov/10 Lead rpt

nice slab climbing. prob harder for cellar dwellars but grade right compared to slabs in france

andy dunn 06/Nov/10 Lead dnf

significantly harder than 6c+

with J
Didymus 21/Oct/10 2nd dog

Snappy - took big lob at the second bolt when hold came off and another pendulum fall on the delicate crux moves out of the niche rest. Hard F6c+. Lead next time.

with Rich
richiebongo 21/Oct/10 Lead RP

Lead this about two years ago with one fall and so returned today to put it to bed. It has definitely got harder. I pulled off at least 3 holds on my ascent alone and Jon pulled off another hold seconding it. The crux now is leaving the halfway ledge which is desperate, i'd say English 6b. Good route though.

Hidden 17/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Bristoldave 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Some pre-placed runners at the start after someone else backed off. Seems like every hold that isn't essential comes off if you touch it. Still *** tho!

with Tom I, pete
bpmclimb 28/May/10 Lead dog


with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 28/May/10 2nd dog
T ny ??/2010 Lead
T ny ??/2010 -
Hidden 23/Jul/09 Lead dog
belay bunny turned bad 23/Jul/09 2nd

led to 2nd crux, snapped another hold whilst using it... followed Tim cleanly :) friable

with loundsy
chris sm 16/Aug/08 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Robyn Nelson
tcn_2002 15/Apr/08 Lead dog
Hidden 19/Jun/07 Lead dog
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
just one more 22/Jul/05 Lead dog
with tim b
Tom Heslam ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
Paz ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with AS
Ally Smith ??/2004 Lead

f7a? As an undergrad, so pre-2004

cornishben ??/2004 Lead dog
with Haggis Harris
Hidden 24/Mar/02 2nd O/S
KRB 03/Nov/01 Lead β

Belayed by my 11 year old son

shoulders 04/Mar/01 Lead
with mart, chrisevans, dai
Bullybones ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 -
John Southworth 21/Nov/99 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
goi.ashmore 06/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
clark alston ?/May/97 Lead O/S

Technical & ridiculously well-protected.

with Steven Martin
migs493 20/Apr/97 Lead O/S

First E4

with Steve Blake
FATBOYFAT ??/1994 Lead O/S
duncan ??/1994 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
Roget 11/Sep/93 Lead dog
with jon
ukb & bmc shark 03/May/93 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/93 Lead β
Hidden 13/Apr/93 Lead β
mattnuttall 08/Mar/93 Lead O/S

agreed - it was E4 in 1993 and is probably still E4 judging by comments... see photo of Vickers cruising the Highway.

with Gareth Parry, Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Cowflinger ?/Dec/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/92 Lead dog
whispering nic ?/May/92 -
with Graham Iles
robbie Warke ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 12/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
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High E5
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High E4
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High E3
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High 6b
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Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
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