75m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Remarkably varied, exposed and sustained climbing from start to finish sets this route firmly in the mold of "modern classic". Start 20m up from the base of the wall on a ledge next to a short slab and below a precarious-looking flake.
1) 5c, 22m. Gain and layback the flake to a ledge. Move up rightwards to a borehole and peg. Climb the borehole via some difficult moves and traverse right to a good ledge and various belays, including an old spike.
2) 6a, 25m. Flip the rope over a spike high on the right for a runner and then make fingery moves direct to a pocket and crack. Climb the crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left to a good calcite thread, at the base of an impending corner above. Climb the corner to an awkward stance on a block with various belays.
3) 5c, 23m. Move up right and climb past old bolts to some steep moves on good holds that lead to a prominent peg and small pancake of rock (good thin sling runner). Move up to and over the bulge above and finish leftwards past a short crack and a final steep move to ledges. © Rockfax

S Monks (A C Willmott, D J Hermalin (XS A5!) 2/May/1971) (E Hart, Ms A Hart (2 pts aid) 1974) 1979

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jim blackford 12 Aug 2nd β
danieljames123 12 Aug Lead G/U Gonna go with a ground up on this I guess, assuming you get to re-set at each belay. I didn't look at the topo/description and mis-remembered the start of the second pitch and charged dead right to the second spike. After realizing I had fucked it, I lowered off this and re-started the pitch. Excellent climb, glad to have ticked it off. Clambering under the overhang was as fun as imagined.
Gonna go with a ground up on this I guess, assuming you get to re-set at each belay. I didn't look at the topo/description and mis-remembered the start of the second pitch and charged dead right to the second spike. After realizing I had fucked it, I lowered off this and re-started the pitch. Excellent climb, glad to have ticked it off. Clambering under the overhang was as fun as imagined.
AJM 21 Jul AltLd O/S Quality outing, with 3 tricky and varied pitches. Led P2, thankfully by the time the shower hit I was in the shelter of the corner roof so didn't notice. Ice cream to finish as always!
with Dave Westlake
Quality outing, with 3 tricky and varied pitches. Led P2, thankfully by the time the shower hit I was in the shelter of the corner roof so didn't notice. Ice cream to finish as always!
with Dave Westlake
Hidden 22 May AltLd O/S
Stanners 22 May AltLd O/S Led P1 & P2. A very memorable Avon classic test piece. Sensational in the evening light with the legendary JB. A bit spare trousers on P2 without side spike!
Led P1 & P2. A very memorable Avon classic test piece. Sensational in the evening light with the legendary JB. A bit spare trousers on P2 without side spike!
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox 18 Mar -
simon cox ?? -
simon cox ?? -
simon cox ?? -
Flavio 28 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S On the day where I didn't meet Pat Littlejohn.. also forgot ice cream money again... but WHAT A ROUTE! May have distracted Mike while lassoing the P2 spike with loud moans as he missed and just repeatedly whipped that naughty naughty rock!
On the day where I didn't meet Pat Littlejohn.. also forgot ice cream money again... but WHAT A ROUTE! May have distracted Mike while lassoing the P2 spike with loud moans as he missed and just repeatedly whipped that naughty naughty rock!
JendeHoxar 28 Oct, 2018 2nd
KRB 25 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S First time out for my new ropes and new harness. Excellent evening climb with Ollie pulling over the top with barely enough light left to avoid the thorny brambles. Good sustained climbing throughout. Abbed back down by starlight followed by a moonlit pint on the harbour-front made for a memorable outing.
First time out for my new ropes and new harness. Excellent evening climb with Ollie pulling over the top with barely enough light left to avoid the thorny brambles. Good sustained climbing throughout. Abbed back down by starlight followed by a moonlit pint on the harbour-front made for a memorable outing.
Kev Little 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd rpt Led p2, great fun
with aiyer
Led p2, great fun
with aiyer
aiyer 11 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazeballs... Lead P1 and P3. Mega exposed type II fun... Just started drizzling as I got on P3 which meant I was totally gripped... Only just got the move by the bolts and onto the overlap,phew!
Amazeballs... Lead P1 and P3. Mega exposed type II fun... Just started drizzling as I got on P3 which meant I was totally gripped... Only just got the move by the bolts and onto the overlap,phew!
Dan Hale 22 May, 2018 Lead O/S Led all pitches. Great climbing.
with Dylan Jones
Led all pitches. Great climbing.
with Dylan Jones
kenneM 17 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S We bailed on the last pitch and finished up Yellow Edge. Still amazing day! Great effort by Chris on the lead. Must come back!
with Chris
We bailed on the last pitch and finished up Yellow Edge. Still amazing day! Great effort by Chris on the lead. Must come back!
with Chris
J_Spooner 2 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S 1st pitch grade unchanged despite flake falling off. Rock only loose on one little bit. 2nd pitch is amazing and best extended to the 3 bolt belay on the 3rd pitch.
with Ben Smart
1st pitch grade unchanged despite flake falling off. Rock only loose on one little bit. 2nd pitch is amazing and best extended to the 3 bolt belay on the 3rd pitch.
with Ben Smart
Pippa 7 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S First pitch has changed since the Rock fall, and is now very loose, take care
with Rob
First pitch has changed since the Rock fall, and is now very loose, take care
with Rob
evhall 1 Jul, 2016 2nd dog Top wall was really hard for me - but route has some amazing positions and is a brilliant adventure - I will never be leading this!
Top wall was really hard for me - but route has some amazing positions and is a brilliant adventure - I will never be leading this!
Ellis Bird 1 May, 2016 Lead
Bristoldave 13 Mar, 2016 Lead Led all 3 pitches. Top pitch is amazing!
Led all 3 pitches. Top pitch is amazing!
brices 12 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Assume route one of the best in the gorge and my first this year. I lead pitch 2 cas crushed 1 and 3.
Assume route one of the best in the gorge and my first this year. I lead pitch 2 cas crushed 1 and 3.
Caspian Johnson 12 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Stunning final pitch. Lead p1 & p3. tasty lead on p2 by si
with brices
Stunning final pitch. Lead p1 & p3. tasty lead on p2 by si
with brices
Hidden 15 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Chubbard 15 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Very good. First pitch less bold than expected. Top pitch more bold.
with ollie_e
Very good. First pitch less bold than expected. Top pitch more bold.
with ollie_e
Alex Winter 30 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Finally got on it, nearly three years after arriving in Bristol. An amazing urban adventure. Got P1 and P2, Nick P3. Some cheesy stuff on the first pitch. Got the cheeky inverted Rock 6 in the old borehole, and it felt safe enough. Spent bloody ages trying to find the right holds at the beginning of the second pitch; by the time I'd sussed it out (actually fairly steady) I was completely knacked, and nearly peeled off a few moves from the belay while excavating a peg from its carapace of dirt and cobweb. Final pitch is great; sustained, but steady enough to hang around a bit and enjoy the view. Had a well-deserved ice cream at the top.
with Nick
Finally got on it, nearly three years after arriving in Bristol. An amazing urban adventure. Got P1 and P2, Nick P3. Some cheesy stuff on the first pitch. Got the cheeky inverted Rock 6 in the old borehole, and it felt safe enough. Spent bloody ages trying to find the right holds at the beginning of the second pitch; by the time I'd sussed it out (actually fairly steady) I was completely knacked, and nearly peeled off a few moves from the belay while excavating a peg from its carapace of dirt and cobweb. Final pitch is great; sustained, but steady enough to hang around a bit and enjoy the view. Had a well-deserved ice cream at the top.
with Nick
Nick Russell 30 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Got to be up there with the best routes in the gorge - phenomenal third pitch! The crux on P2 is pretty steady if you send your partner up first to figure out where all the holds are. I led P3; Alex P1,2.
Got to be up there with the best routes in the gorge - phenomenal third pitch! The crux on P2 is pretty steady if you send your partner up first to figure out where all the holds are. I led P3; Alex P1,2.
eddy-on-the-rocks 8 Mar, 2014 AltLd dog used the spike as aid on P2. Shame on me.
with max
used the spike as aid on P2. Shame on me.
with max
JBO 24 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S I led the first and second pitches, which both felt pretty tough, especially the start of the second. Dad led the top pitch which looked well scary, the rock was pretty dodgy.
I led the first and second pitches, which both felt pretty tough, especially the start of the second. Dad led the top pitch which looked well scary, the rock was pretty dodgy.
Aaron Lines 30 Nov, 2012 AltLd Led p1 and 3. Rested on a peg on P3! Now have to come back and do it again
Led p1 and 3. Rested on a peg on P3! Now have to come back and do it again
thomasadixon 1 Nov, 2012 AltLd O/S p1 & 2 only, rain stopped play for the last pitch. Pretty chuffed to manage lassoing the spike on the 2nd. Damn cool climb.
p1 & 2 only, rain stopped play for the last pitch. Pretty chuffed to manage lassoing the spike on the 2nd. Damn cool climb.
BeccaSnowden 1 Nov, 2012 AltLd O/S (p1&2 only) I led p1, Tom led p2. Escaped from p3 because of very heavy shower, can't wait to go back. Peg on p1 is a little unnerving!
(p1&2 only) I led p1, Tom led p2. Escaped from p3 because of very heavy shower, can't wait to go back. Peg on p1 is a little unnerving!
Ed Babs 6 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S Great fun. There is a peg at the borehole on P1, although it flexes a bit. Butterfly assisted ascent.
Great fun. There is a peg at the borehole on P1, although it flexes a bit. Butterfly assisted ascent.
Hidden 27 Jun, 2012 AltLd
pezzerrr 27 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
colesy 12 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S I lead P1+3, Oli lead P2.
I lead P1+3, Oli lead P2.
danp 18 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S pitch 1 and 3. Folded over no 6ish nut is pretty solid placed in the hole where the spike and sling used to be on pitch 1. Still feels a bit scary though.
pitch 1 and 3. Folded over no 6ish nut is pretty solid placed in the hole where the spike and sling used to be on pitch 1. Still feels a bit scary though.
richiebongo 18 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S I lead pitch 2, Dan lead pitch 1 & 3. The crux on pitch 2 felt more like 5c to me.
with Dan Perrot
I lead pitch 2, Dan lead pitch 1 & 3. The crux on pitch 2 felt more like 5c to me.
with Dan Perrot
frank ramsay 22 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf Rained off pitch 3. Pitch 1 is pretty bold on the crux, with marginal RP's. Good gear lower down though - but it would be a long fall. I might try and replace the peg this summer.
with Aaron
Rained off pitch 3. Pitch 1 is pretty bold on the crux, with marginal RP's. Good gear lower down though - but it would be a long fall. I might try and replace the peg this summer.
with Aaron
Aaron Lines 22 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf rained off P3
rained off P3
hutster781 17 Apr, 2011 TR dog solid` pitcch one of yellow edge `big fall under roof of pitch two then botched it to the top ` way off the mark but still enjoyable
with shunt, new rope
solid` pitcch one of yellow edge `big fall under roof of pitch two then botched it to the top ` way off the mark but still enjoyable
with shunt, new rope
msoldn 17 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S Jason led pitch 1 up to where the peg & sling were supposed to be, but now no more, half peg still in crack, rest is gonne (must have been one massif whipper; only wish that that someone would have put a note on UKC letting others know about it, rather than forcing those who follow into dodgy rappels of rusty steel spikes!). I ended up climbing pitch 1 of Yellow Edge, Jason then did a dusty hand-travers to the belay on Amanita and carried on with pitch 2 from there, taking on gear at the crux move by the peg and sling. I just about managed to get the crux clean on second and led pitch 3, which definitely is the money pitch of this route, wild and exhilerating, with plenty of pump and just enough rest positions to get you through. Very happy to finally have done this one!
with Jason
Jason led pitch 1 up to where the peg & sling were supposed to be, but now no more, half peg still in crack, rest is gonne (must have been one massif whipper; only wish that that someone would have put a note on UKC letting others know about it, rather than forcing those who follow into dodgy rappels of rusty steel spikes!). I ended up climbing pitch 1 of Yellow Edge, Jason then did a dusty hand-travers to the belay on Amanita and carried on with pitch 2 from there, taking on gear at the crux move by the peg and sling. I just about managed to get the crux clean on second and led pitch 3, which definitely is the money pitch of this route, wild and exhilerating, with plenty of pump and just enough rest positions to get you through. Very happy to finally have done this one!
with Jason
Hidden 17 Sep, 2010 AltLd dog
dan gibson 20 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
Ricky Rocks 2 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S did p2 and p3 in one. Really nice, long and pumpy.
did p2 and p3 in one. Really nice, long and pumpy.
Paz 25 Oct, 2008 AltLd rpt Just lead P1; felt bolder than I remembered. P3 was scrittier than I remembered. It was a close run thing getting up just before dark.
with GD
Just lead P1; felt bolder than I remembered. P3 was scrittier than I remembered. It was a close run thing getting up just before dark.
with GD
IceMonkey1982 20 Jul, 2008 - Top pitch only
Top pitch only
Billg 3 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Bob Brewer
with Bob Brewer
Kev Little ??, 2006 AltLd
Paz 2 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S Lead P2 (6a). Took the new 5c finish above the ramp (light drizzle).
with BM
Lead P2 (6a). Took the new 5c finish above the ramp (light drizzle).
with BM
duncan 1 May, 2005 2nd rpt
_m.cox_ ?May, 2005 Lead O/S
with westyb3
with westyb3
cornishben ??, 2004 2nd O/S
with Max Dutson
with Max Dutson
pete johnson ?Jul, 1999 -
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
Hidden 20 Jun, 1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Apr, 1999 Lead rpt
guy xavier percival ??, 1999 -
Hidden ?Jul, 1998 AltLd
duncan 30 Apr, 1995 AltLd O/S
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
AndySL ??, 1994 2nd O/S
with Tim
with Tim
pete johnson 13 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
with Andy Tallant
with Andy Tallant
Derek Ryden ?Aug, 1992 2nd O/S
with Paul Twomey
with Paul Twomey
Pete Ogden ??, 1990 AltLd
with Simon Kemp
with Simon Kemp
charlesmfrench 20 Nov, 1988 AltLd O/S 2,L,2.
with Ian Milne
2,L,2.
with Ian Milne
keefe 21 Aug, 1988 -
clanger ?Jan, 1988 AltLd
clanger ?Jan, 1988 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1988 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 1987 AltLd
Adrian Gostick ??, 1987 AltLd led pitch 2
led pitch 2
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1987 Lead β
Mike Owen 24 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S Led all pitches.
with Simon King
Led all pitches.
with Simon King
stp 27 Aug, 1983 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 2 and 3.
Lead pitches 2 and 3.
andy gittins ??, 1983 -
Steve Bell ??, 1981 -
Hidden ??, 1981 AltLd
Steve Lewis ?Jul, 1980 Lead rpt
with Lyndsey
with Lyndsey
Steve Lewis 21 May, 1980 AltLd O/S
with Pat
with Pat
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 22
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set