Rockfax Description
An enthralling wall-pitch composed of numerous testing parts and culminating in an exciting finish. Start at a blank section of wall 7m right of the long corner groove of M1.
Make some bouldery moves up the initial wall before moving left and climbing a corner/groove to a break and two pegs. Make bold moves rightwards up the wall to a ledge. From a short crack on the left, move up left to pockets that lead to a concrete block. Move right to a narrow groove and climb this and the wall above with difficulty past a pocket and bolt on the left to better finishing holds that lead to the ramp. © Rockfax

R Harrison, A Hall 07/Feb/1978

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

Martin Bagshaw 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Hardest moves reasonably protected, but definitely had some runouts.

Hidden 29/Oct/17 2nd O/S
Wil Treasure 22/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Tricky crux near the top. Some great moves, the rumour from the first pegs is a bit confusing. I ended up mantelling the ledge to the left before crimping up rightwards.

with Jon G
jon_gill1 22/Sep/17 2nd O/S
with Wil
eddy-on-the-rocks 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S
with Adam
Adam Henderson 17/Sep/17 2nd
with Eddy
kenneM 19/Aug/17 Lead rpt

On lead this time. Pulled a massive block out the bottom of the top grove. Still climbable at the same grade.

with Chris
J_Spooner ?/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Ben Smart
tobydunford 07/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Jamie evans
AlexRenshaw 02/Jul/17 Lead
julesmckim 02/Jul/17 2nd O/S

Brilliant sustained climbing. Found it hard for the grade. Top section around the pocket was a struggle!!

kenneM 04/May/17 2nd β

Tried it on lead but knackered by the last crux section. Lowered down and Chris smashed it out. MUST COME BACK!!

with Chris
Joris.Roulleau 26/Nov/16 2nd

felt pretty hard at the top. Had to sit on the rope to get Dan's last nut (and didn't get it). Would be scary to lead...

manwithacam 26/Nov/16 Lead

Fell off once at boulder start, and again at top crux. Bugger. Despite this, actually felt I did ok on it. A good solid E3, not giving much away, I think. Very absorbing, really enjoyed it. Psyched.

with Joris
will_benfold 23/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Mark Stevenson 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
aiyer 07/Sep/16 TR
with tp45597
Hidden 07/Sep/16 TR O/S
HappyTrundler 01/Sep/16 Lead rpt

Another route I first led 20 years ago....three interesting sections, boulder problem start, a bold bit, and a hard, pumpy crux sequence right at the top, where the crux should be....good gear higher up and on the crux....great route....

with Chas
Mark Warnett ?/May/16 Lead O/S

Awesome climb, best done when sun not on face when I suspect it feels a lot easier ... I did it in shade

with Andy O'Conner
ian d f 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S


with Mark
markfromstoke 12/Mar/16 2nd

dogged the top section

with Ian
London Luke 11/Jul/15 Lead dog
with David R
Luxulyan 18/Jun/15 Lead G/U

After losing my way last time and having to escape up M1. Very good.

with Harry
ollie_e 15/Jun/15 Lead dog

Waaaaaaay too hot! Sweaty blind move at the top with the pocket chucked me off (missed the obvious jug as usual) and I went a loooong way, resulting in a number 1 rock now being stuck about 2m from the top. Annoyed I didn't get this, no harder than E3, but its a tough one.

with Charlie
Chubbard 15/Jun/15 2nd dog

V v hot. Pretty hard too. Fell off the start first go. Then more dogging to fight with wires.

with Ollie
tobydunford 08/May/15 2nd β
with Harry Martin
Misha 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

The gearless start was fine until I got onto the larger holds and pulled off half a handhold! Managed to hold on to what was left, otherwise would have been interesting as was a few metres off the deck. Bold section off the little ledge, moving up a fair bit to the right of a so-so peg (good nut below), some exciting 5c there (by the way, couldn't clip the second peg as the only feasible way of going up at 5c that I could see was ocpver on the right and you then end up well out of reach of the second peg). The section above on pockets was also tricky but had good gear. Seems I unwittingly finished up M1 (missing out the last hard section?), reason to go back one day! A quality route, a bit run out, good climbing, just what I needed early in the season!

with Felix
felixizzy 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with misha
Hidden 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S
danmullett 13/Dec/14 2nd β
Ollie B 29/Nov/14 Lead rpt

Seconded at some point previously

with B.Brewer
philhilo 23/Oct/14 TR

First bigger vertical route on the top rope solo. Bottom sequence exciting as rope stretch means you deck from anywhere in the first 3m or so. Jumped off mid route to test the system, all fine but lots of stretch.

Sophie Nunn 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Richard
Luxulyan 26/Jul/14 Lead dnf
with Sophie
Dean Russell 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
mike mo ??/2014 -
JBO 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Another tough E3, brilliant climbing though, flowed really nicely. A little bit spicey low down but safe enough.

Alex Winter 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Good climbing, quite sustained. Ate too many blackberries whilst belaying.

with Nick
Nick Russell 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Sustained, interesting climbing, a brilliant route! The route finding is tricky and I was fortunate to have Alex advise me to go right at the top. I must have spent almost an hour on this, thanks for the patience, Alex...

BeccaSnowden 22/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Got as far as top crux on 20.10.12 but couldn't figure out the sequence (was too far left). This time I fell off the bold crux - pegs held but I had a painful collision with the ledge. Not going to be trying this one again...

with Tom
Quarryboy 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Was on the route for over 2 hours in the gross heat of the day (placed 18 runners in total). Despite not being pumped every limb hurt! Didn't think the climbing was actually that hard probably f6b+ overall. Personally I think the crux is getting off the ground although even once you are past this you still have to face 30 odd metres of hard to read relentless tech 5b climbing. Was totally wasted reaching the belay.

richiebongo 09/Jan/13 Lead RP

Did it again and got it all clean this time inc the tricky finish.

with Nick Smith
richiebongo 05/Jan/13 Lead RP

Got the crux this time, bold and hard, but finished up M1

with Nick Smith
thomasadixon 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt

On Becca's gear - hard moves (hard 5c if not 6a) to get to the bolt and a balancy an bold crux low down. Brilliant climb.

with Becca
Stanners 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

climbing porn

Pete Rigby 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 22/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 29/Aug/12 2nd dog
mountain_jay 29/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant! Had always thought it looked awesome and scary! Can't believe i just jumped on it. Was pretty nervous. bottom went absolutely fine. Stepped back down from the crux, got good No.5 rock in and went back up a bit further right. Whole thing felt pretty serious. Super stoked!

with Richard Bennett
mikeshewring 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

E4 6a I think.

Pippa ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Becca
Cailean Harker 08/May/12 Lead O/S
Tom Heslam 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
Hidden 15/Feb/12 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Feb/12 2nd
AlexRenshaw 13/Nov/11 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Toby Dunn 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Sophie Nunn
Aaron Lines 19/Jul/11 Lead
with dave
Hidden 09/Jun/11 2nd β
Ed Babs 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines 28/May/11 2nd O/S
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

Superb route. Feels a bit like a Gogarth route. Never too bold, just brilliant climbing

thomasadixon 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Bit too much time route finding! Still good though.

with Becca
Marti999 09/Sep/10 Lead β

took a mighty fall from the reachy low crux, started again this time with trust in those pegs!

with Lisa
Hidden 17/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 13/Aug/10 TR dog
dan gibson 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with oscar
Hidden 24/Jun/10 -
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/10 TR rpt
LC ?/May/10 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 20/Apr/10 2nd
with GF
Hidden 06/Feb/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
billb ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol ?/Aug/09 Lead
just one more 31/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Svenn G
feilx 03/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/09 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Mar/09 Lead dog
Hidden 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S
richiebongo ??/2009 Lead dog

Slumped onto the peg at the blank wall. One to come back to do clean.

with Nick Smith
lukehodson 19/Nov/08 2nd O/S
with Howard
Paz 03/Oct/08 2nd rpt
with TS
CarolineH 07/Sep/08 2nd dog
with Dave
Bristoldave 07/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/08 2nd dog
Lev 01/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Paz 28/Aug/08 2nd dnf

Finished up M1.

with WG
Hidden 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Paz 23/Nov/07 Lead β

The direct finish. You move right from the concrete block, then up to the bolt. I think this might merit 6a, if only to tell you what to expect, but maybe it's no harder than Ladder the regular way?

with HL
Paz 13/Oct/07 Lead dnf

Tried the "inferior" direct, but went up a bit too far left to the very top of M1.

with MH2
Marti999 ?/Sep/07 Lead dog
pezzerrr 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Bux 12/Jul/06 2nd dog
with Nick
Hidden 10/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Paz 10/Jul/06 2nd
with AB
Marcus ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
Paz 29/Oct/05 2nd rpt
with RJ
joe_alexander 21/Mar/05 2nd dog
with Nick Gillette
Paz 08/Mar/05 Lead β
with AS
Ally Smith 08/Mar/05 2nd
Paz 31/Oct/04 Lead dnf

escaped up M1

with GC
_m.cox_ 23/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
Adam Ellwood 16/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Tim
Hidden 04/Jun/04 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2004 2nd dog
cornishben ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
richsmithinbristol ?/Apr/03 Lead RP

Fell off previously climbing with Tink?

cornishben ??/2003 2nd
with Mike Raine
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
KRB 28/Dec/01 Lead β
John Southworth 25/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
Billg ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Harry
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
pete johnson ?/Jul/99 -
with Steve Findlay
Hidden 19/May/99 Lead rpt
guy xavier percival ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1999 -
lowersharpnose 04/May/97 Lead
with tombawimba
AndySL ??/1997 2nd O/S
with Tim
AlexRenshaw 22/Jun/95 2nd
with Ted Lister, Mike Dawes
rob.grafton 11/Jul/93 Lead
with Bruce
pete johnson 13/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Andy Tallant
Hidden 13/Apr/93 Lead β
Roget 29/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
AlexRenshaw 15/Feb/92 2nd
pete johnson 23/Mar/91 Lead
with James Barrett
AlexRenshaw 17/Mar/90 2nd
with Simon Donowho, Mike Dawes
Pete Ogden ??/1990 Lead
clark alston ?/May/89 Lead β
with Andy Turner
Hidden 14/Oct/88 Lead
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/88 Lead

I visited my brother in Bristol, after returning from the Alps and hooked up with a stray climber in the gorge to do these 2 routes. I think his name was Mark...very large...Dunne proportions. A butcher. Turns out he's a bit of a legend down that way. strong lad for his size!!

Eduardo Martinez 24/Aug/87 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 15/May/87 Lead
DDDD ??/1987 -
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
Nigel Coe 06/Oct/85 2nd

In the rain,so a very tight rope.

JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 2nd dog
with Phil Windall
Hidden 22/Dec/84 2nd O/S
Mike Owen 21/Oct/84 Lead O/S
with Pete Craig, Elaine Owen
Steve Lewis 24/Jun/84 Lead O/S
with Graham Royle, Clive Curle
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
AlexRenshaw ??/1984 Lead
with Ted Lister
charlesmfrench 12/Nov/83 2nd O/S
with Dave Green
andy gittins ??/1983 -
stp 21/Apr/82 Lead O/S

Possibly my first ever E3. Didn't seem harder than E2s.

Steve Bell ??/1981 -
barny ??/1981 Lead O/S

Maybe I shouldn't say but it was so long ago... Mike failed three feet off the ground, handed rope to me probably expected me to struggle, and I'd only expected to be a happy second. Cruised up the boulder problem, started getting nervous at the first dusty break and moves up/left leaving my only runner a long way behind. Peg protection and had to dyno for the next break (not very fit!) then moved right and took a whole load of time to convince myself the route really did go up that thin crack past the jammed wire. Took even longer to figure I had to go to one side of the crack, then move up/left to get the finish ledge edge and could reach back down to fill that lovely jug pocket with a friend. Brilliant. My first lead above E1 at Avon.

with Dr Mike
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Unsure
duncan ?/Nov/80 Lead O/S
chris sm ??/0000 2nd dog
with Andy Gill
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 31
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set