Rockfax Description
A thrilling pitch combining a head-spinning position with faultless wall-climbing. Start at the top of the ramp.
Traverse out left for 3m along the break, level with the ramp, to a tiny ledge. Climb slightly rightwards up the wall, past 2 pegs, to good nuts in the cracks above. Move up leftwards with difficulty to the base of an open groove and a peg on the right and proceed up the groove to where it fades. Finish up the fingery final wall passing a peg. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Leave the edge of the ramp and continue easily to the first peg, and the second. Then lace the bottom of the rightwards trending crack with good gear and run it out (safely) on an amazing sequence to a massive jug next to a peg and a couple of cams if you want them...
Continue up much easier ground, peg clipping as you go with a little spicy move to finish.

P R Littlejohn, C King 17/Nov/1977

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, 20 Routes For 2017, The Ramp 'Super' Challenge.

Wil Treasure 15/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Lorne
Kemics 23/Aug/17 TR RP

Cowardly TR. Fine till the crux, nails hard so fell off lots, came up with a ridiculous sequence. Nick had a go and found the holds. Second try clean. The top half seems protectedly solely by pegs. Should probably go for a lead

nickwhimster 23/Aug/17 TR dog
with Kemics
alexm198 15/Aug/17 2nd dog

Fingers uncurled on the penultimate move (off the last peg). Amazing route though. Crux felt utterly desperate - must get stronger...

Matt Harle 15/Aug/17 Lead O/S
julesmckim 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Pleased to get this on sight. Could have wimped out - sun was shining, already feeling tired from previous routes. So glad I got on with it. Full of interest from the off: traversing out into space with a fall into a bramble bush the cost of getting it wrong, steady to the crux, then a great run out on unhelpful handholds which become useful when your feet are in the right place. Lovely easier climbing above with an exciting finish past the peg.

AlexRenshaw 02/Jul/17 2nd
Duncan Campbell 29/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Brilliant exposed technicality!! Has got some tricky sequences on it and keeps you thinking all the way - the sort of quality you expect from a Littlejohn route! Felt like a bigger lead than Arms Race

Katekeltie 29/Jun/17 2nd rpt
Ellis Bird 01/Jun/17 Lead
quiffhanger ?/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Rachel
James Smith 23/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Was intimidated by this route for years so I'm glad to have finally got on and done it! A couple of hard sections, lots of questionable pegs which can for the most part be backed up. Save some beans for the top!

with geoff
_m.cox_ 13/Nov/16 Lead rpt
with Wendy Coles
Wendy 13/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Matt C
Andrew1 03/Sep/16 Lead
with Hulda
blaza1 15/Jul/16 2nd β
Wendy Watthews 21/Jun/16 2nd dog
kenneM 03/May/16 Lead G/U

Absolutely bloody brilliant. Didn't commit to the run out from the crack first time round and had some air time. Back down to the ledge and then back up again and got across to the crack ok - well just about.... Has to be one of the best E3 single pitche routes in the UK!! Pretty damn tricky as well.

with Chris
HappyTrundler 24/Apr/16 2nd rpt

Good lead by Rich

with Rich 'Wild Man' Rogers
Hugobristol 08/Mar/16 Lead dnf

Going for ground up now. Found getting to the top of the lower crack pretty strenuous, then failed to commit fully and dropped off early in the runout.

with Liam
Mark Stevenson 25/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Michael Pearson
Bristoldave 18/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with colin
James Marshall 29/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Great, a bit of a route finding mission if you don't read the guide book properly !

with Gaz
JoeE 30/Apr/15 TR RP

Wicked route! Scary runout crux

with Mr Shunt
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
alice fuller 12/Oct/14 2nd β
Brian H 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Claiming onsight as I downclimbed when attempting a while back. New pegs make it safer and this time I was able to read the moves on the runout section into the groove. Really good route.

Hidden 12/Oct/14 Lead β
tobydunford 24/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Kirsty Kerr
eel 23/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Andy J
bigdrew 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
tobydunford 22/Sep/14 2nd β
with Harry Martin
mountain_jay 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S

oh my! turned into a bit of a battle. downclimbed from the crux (getting into groove) to the crack. at the top of the groove couldn't decide whether to go direct, but ended up stepping left a bit. was pretty tired and was getting dark! a bit of downclimbing a couple of times from the final peg! eventually got the onsight after about 2.5 hours on the route, by the light of some other climber's headtorches! exciting times!

Ricky Rocks 20/Aug/14 Lead

Total class, amazing position, great climbing. Forgot how good this was..

mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 09/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Dan Donovan
JBO 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Tough for E3! Hard and bold moving away from the two lower pegs.

Hidden 03/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 26/Jul/13 Lead RP

Eventually figured out the move at the crux. Impeccable climbing above, great exposure, three stars from me! (I'll give it a hard E3 because I know I'm not the only one to find that move hard to read, and it's a relatively big fall albeit onto bomber gear. Easy for 6a though, once you get it figured out)

Alex Winter 26/Jul/13 Lead

I won't win any style awards for this one: mostly on Nicks's gear and with loads of beets. Still, great climbing. Easy when you know how.

with Nick
Alex Winter 13/Jul/13 Lead dnf

Alternated attempts with Jon. Can't figure out the move into groove.

Keendan 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Cool techy route, more sustained than expected.

Nick Russell 29/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Standard procedure: stopped mid-crux, got pumped, fell. Should have gone home before trying this, some day I'll learn to finish early and finish strong, rather than keep going til I'm bleeding!

Wood for Trees 21/Apr/13 2nd β

amazing sequence, bold start, factor 2 scenes

Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Kevster 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Sep/12 2nd β
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Ed Babs 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Happy to find this straightforward. Must try MWE.

with AlexD
AlexD 13/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Ed
cem 19/Jun/12 2nd dog

Flummoxed by the crux section: couldn't work out the sequence or spot the holds

akhughes 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S
BeccaSnowden 04/Jun/12 2nd dog

Really hard!

with Tom
thomasadixon 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Might be down to illness/heat/error but it felt near/as hard as Main Wall Eliminate. Hard, sustained and bold "first" crux, didn't remember there was a second one til I checked the guidebook after! Great route on good upper wall rock.

with Becca
Tom Heslam 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Lydia
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
drcorbasisgod ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Graham C 19/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Marti
Marti999 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Mike Goldthorp 25/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Very nearly came off on the crux coming into the base of the groove, sloppy footwork, but such a brilliant climb all the way, dont understand why it was left out of the selective rockfax, absolute gem!

with Nick, Giles, Cailean Harker
Cailean Harker 25/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Amazing climb with great exposure

Toby Dunn 19/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Justin Timms
Justin T 19/Nov/11 2nd
with Toby
danp 17/Oct/11 Lead O/S

amazing line, as good as it looks.

richiebongo 17/Oct/11 Lead RP
with Dan Perrot, Nick Smith
Hidden 14/Sep/11 Lead O/S
benkelsey 14/Sep/11 2nd O/S

So nearly stacked the last move. found the good jug with a few seconds strength to spare.. 3 star route. fantastic.

Tom Brierley Gore 09/Jul/11 Lead dog

lots of pegs, but it doesn't make it any easier :/

karenhh 09/Jul/11 2nd dog
Pippa 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Richard
richsmithinbristol 14/Jun/11 Lead
with Pippa
gazhbo ?/Jun/11 Lead
billb ?/Jun/11 Lead
Tom Heslam 25/May/11 Lead O/S
with Rosea
colesy 06/May/11 Lead O/S

Nice route.

Rosea Day ?/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Thomas Heslam
pezzerrr 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
richiebongo 06/Jul/10 Lead dog
with Nick Smith
Hidden 04/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
dan gibson 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with oscar
Hidden 24/Jun/10 -
Aaron Lines ??/2010 2nd O/S
JulesV 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Will Boxen
Dunx 02/Oct/09 2nd
with Giles, Ru
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
feilx 03/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Heather
Bristoldave 06/May/09 Lead rpt
with Jon Hauser
jh5638 26/Apr/09 2nd dog
with Bristol Dave
Bristoldave 26/Apr/09 Lead dog

Messed up top crux. Small slump onto peg.

with Jon Hauser
Hidden 22/Nov/08 Lead RP
Paz 22/Nov/08 2nd dog

Numb as F

with WG
Paz 28/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with WG, HA
Hidden 01/Aug/08 2nd dog
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Paz 13/Aug/07 2nd
with AB
Paz 09/May/06 2nd rpt
with AS
Ally Smith 09/May/06 Lead
Marcus ??/2006 -
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
Will Homoky ?/May/05 2nd dog

Pretty sure I took a rest somewhere on this one. Stunning face climbing though.

with Pete Milnar
Paz 13/Apr/05 Lead RP
with AS
Ally Smith 13/Apr/05 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/04 Lead RP
Mark Stevenson 19/May/04 2nd O/S
Ally Smith 18/May/04 Lead
Paz 18/May/04 2nd dog

Seconded it (with tight rope assistance) to get my the gear back after my lead attempt lead to airborne retreat.

with AS
_m.cox_ ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
cornishben ??/2004 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
richsmithinbristol 20/May/03 Lead O/S

With Woody

Ally Smith ??/2003 -
KRB 29/Jun/02 Lead β
with unseconded
John Southworth 20/Aug/01 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
migs493 01/Jul/01 2nd β
ellis ?/Sep/00 Lead O/S
Billg ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Harry
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/97 Lead RP
Hidden 18/Jun/96 Lead dog
AlexRenshaw 16/May/96 Lead
with Simon Donowho
Hidden 06/May/96 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/May/96 -
Paul Clarke ??/1995 Lead

On way to SW

with Nick Dalzell
Johnny Baker ??/1994 -
with Nigel Birtwell
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
AndySL 08/Jul/93 2nd O/S


with Tim
pete johnson 13/Jun/93 Lead O/S
with Andy Tallant
mattnuttall 06/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden 12/Dec/92 2nd dog
Nigel Coe ??/1992 2nd
with Ray Mardon
mark-abz 04/Nov/90 2nd
with Dan W
Hidden 08/Oct/89 2nd O/S
ukb & bmc shark 09/Sep/89 Lead O/S
keefe 21/Aug/88 -
clark alston ?/Aug/88 Lead O/S

Phenomenal climbing.

with Mark Courtiour
Rich Kirby ?/Jul/88 2nd
DDDD ??/1987 -
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
William Robertson ??/1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
AlexRenshaw 02/Nov/85 Lead
stp 28/Jun/83 Lead rpt

Seconded the year before. More sustained than cruxy. E3 5c.

andy gittins ??/1983 -
duncan ?/Nov/82 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 12/Jul/81 Lead O/S
with Gary
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 37
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set