Rockfax Description
A popular pumper that folows a fine, well-protected finger-crack. The rock anchor bolts are out-of-bounds for holds! Start at the bottom of a thin right-trending crack below an overhang at 7m with a number of massive rock anchors just above it.

Climb the strenuous crack past the overhang and up the grey wall until it fades below a massive ring bolt. Move up to just below the ring bolt (runner only!) traverse the thin break left and move up to a short crack and easier climbing to the top. © Rockfax

S Monks, P Newman 18/Oct/1979

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist, 20 For 2017, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Ed Babs 29/Apr Lead RP

Finally lead clean. Seconded 6 May 2013. Dogged previously 8 Dec 2012 & 28 Aug 2010. Still hard!

with Eddie Young
James S 23/Apr Lead G/U

Woohoo! Peeled off of this around a year ago, really pleased to have climbed it in reasonable comfort this time!

with geoff
Mark Stevenson 21/Apr AltLd RP
dan gibson 21/Apr 2nd rpt
with Mark Stevenson
Mark Stevenson 19/Apr Lead G/U
meinecke 19/Apr 2nd
with Mark S
quiffhanger 17/Apr Lead rpt

Good way to kick the trad season off! Bit pumped but unlike last time avoided redlining.

with Angus
WillAndrew 13/Apr Lead dnf

Despite its reputation, i wholly underestimated just how pumped I would get; couldn't even finish it!

with KatePG
julesmckim 31/Mar Lead G/U

What a brilliant pitch! The best finger locks and wire placements you're going to find anywhere. My arms ultimately lost the race, unable to recover at the break on the on-sight. Crux is working out what to do with the ring bolt. Without it you'd probably just get on with the traverse. Did it ground up first go with sport head on

with Rob Smart
Marti999 19/Oct/16 Lead O/S

No hard moves just a pump

scorpia97 ?/Oct/16 TR O/S

Top rope solo

Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead
Hidden 04/Sep/16 2nd dog
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 02/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Wanted to do this for years, nice to do it in the evening light too - en route to Lundy.

with Penny Orr, Rich Bennett
Hidden 02/Sep/16 2nd rpt
BenNorman 11/Aug/16 Lead G/U

Absolutely loved this, possibly about as far out of my comfort zone as I could be, pump, fingerlocks, placing gear and pump. Pretty rubbish O/S attempt, pulled roped and got gradually higher until doing on my fourth go. Learnt a lot on this!!

with Cailean
Cailean Harker 10/Aug/16 Lead

Repeat. Pure quality

with Ben Norman
Justin T ?/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Awesome, can't believe I left it so long.

with Russ
blaza1 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Quite nice actually...

Wendy Watthews 21/Jun/16 2nd dog
MichaelGallimore 06/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Been on my list for a while- I saw this route on Lucy Creamer's Marmot hand picked video a couple of years ago and have been wanting to climb it ever since. Climbed up and down a few times to reduce time hanging on placing gear, as I'd heard the climb's reputation for being pumpy. Turned out I probably overdid it with the trad tactics as I didn't get pumped at all. Super fun route, made all the better by Ben's first pitch up M1.

with Ben Ax
Hidden 15/May/16 2nd dog
Pippa 05/May/16 Lead rpt
with Caspian
Caspian Johnson 05/May/16 Lead RP
with Pip
HappyTrundler 24/Apr/16 Lead rpt

First outdoor lead this year, probably not the best choice....not so good this time....lost my cool and took a big lob...yanked Rich about 10 foot off the deck !....

with Rich 'Wild Man' Rogers
Hidden 17/Mar/16 2nd
Wendy 13/Mar/16 Lead β
with Gaz
ian d f 12/Mar/16 Lead dog

Need to come back fresh for this.

with Mark
Hugobristol 15/Feb/16 Lead RP

Second attempt of the day, fell going towards the ringbolt on first go. Felt smooth with a sequence.

with Thom, Thom
Hidden 15/Feb/16 2nd dog
Hugobristol 12/Feb/16 Lead dog

Fell off onsight after regaining the discontinued crack. Failed ground as too pumped around the ringbolt. Settled for a dog.

with Liam
Mark Stevenson 25/Oct/15 Lead rpt

Cheating foothold on stabilisation bolt :-(

with Michael Pearson
adam 24 27/Jun/15 Lead dog

Pumped out getting into the second section of the crack. Lowered off, pulled the ropes and went for a G/U ... totally pumped out at the ring bolt. Great route though and I think i can do it

with Caroline
Hidden 27/Jun/15 2nd dog
grp 08/Jun/15 Lead dog

lives up to its reputation,

Hidden 08/Jun/15 2nd β
LRob 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 02/Jun/15 2nd β
with Peter M
James Marshall 30/May/15 Lead G/U
with Gaz
JoeE 24/May/15 TR dog

Lovely finger crack

with Mr Shunt
tobydunford 18/May/15 Lead rpt

That's better, lead placing the gear on lead. Great.

with Harry Martin
climbomaniac 16/May/15 Lead G/U

Daaamn... Seriously underestimated this climb! Looked like a walk in the park from below, but got really pumped already after the first bulge. Jumped in. 2nd go to the big hook, but fell on the slopy traverse left. 3rd go clean. Next time: warm up first, and a little more respect for a steep sustained E4!!

alastairbegley 09/May/15 2nd dog
with Misha
Misha 09/May/15 Lead rpt

First tried it three years ago almost to the day. Seem to recall finding it witheringly pumpy and didn't manage it clean. This time it went fine :-) Still pumpy of course but never desperately so. Guess I'm now fitter and can probably use feet better - that's pretty important. The hardest thing was placing the gear as the moves and hand holds are mostly not too bad. Pleased with this.

tobydunford 08/May/15 Lead RP

Lead this with the gear in after falling by the big ring bolt on the onsight! Need to do it properly putting the gear in on the lead. Brilliant route.

with Harry Martin
Hidden 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Jack_F 10/Apr/15 Lead G/U

It was a bit dark and I couldn't quite see, as well as the sun being on it, which made it a bit sweaty but the wind was making it really cold, making warming up really hard, but I was too warm. I also picked up the wrong shoes which were too tight and the rubber was too soft coupled with the high additives in my chalk which made my skin too soft for the day. I swear. 2nd go.

with Remus
Hidden 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S
quiffhanger 14/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Cold hands and not warmed up = pumped! Still awesome...

LucasHarazin 16/Oct/14 Lead RP

This time putting gear on the lead. Great climb.

just one more 08/Oct/14 Lead RP

Lead on Lucas' gear between his brave leads in heavy downpours! Will be back to do it getting the gear in

LucasHarazin 08/Oct/14 Lead RP

With pre-placed gear on the second go. Then washed away by downpour while trying to place gear on leading.

eel 23/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Andy J
bigdrew 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Eve
Kevster 14/Sep/14 Lead RP

Took one go to re-aquaint and get over myself at the top, clean and placing gear 2nd go. I guess this now leaves the E5 next door...

with Josh Leak
Pippa 09/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with RB1
Hidden 09/Sep/14 2nd dog
pheotleyr 06/Aug/14 TR dog

2 rests. First one because I went slightly the wrong way, second one because I was lazy.

HappyTrundler 06/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Faffed a bit and still made it, with a little bit to spare...

twem 06/Aug/14 2nd dog

One rest, I should have gone for it and taken the fall

with Andy Tobin
Dean Russell 26/Jul/14 Lead RP
yan hawkins 17/May/14 Lead RP
with Gaz
Kevster 04/May/14 Lead

Good route, stacks of gear, pumpy to place. Tried onsight, failed it clean, but made the top in a couple of sections, next go led it on in situ gear clean and smooth. Just got to wait until next time for placing gear on lead.

Cheese Monkey 14/Apr/14 TR dog

Definitely one to come back to. Got rope burn on hand when shunt appeared to slip somewhat.

with Shunt
tonevert ??/2014 2nd
with Kevin Faux
i_a_coops ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Duggie
Alex Winter 30/Nov/13 Lead G/U

Placed some dodgy gear on my first go (I've obviously done too much sport recently). Didn't really have much confidence in it and lost all mojo for upwards progression. Got it next go after Nick had stripped it. Great route. Sustained, but only a couple of 5c moves I reckon.

with Nick
Nick Russell 30/Nov/13 Lead β

Some kind of retro-flash. Couldn't remember anything from my failed attempt at following it ages ago. Led today first time but with 2 pieces of Alex's gear in. Pumped silly by the top!

eddy-on-the-rocks 23/Nov/13 Lead rpt
with max
JBO 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Pumpy but at the bottom end of the grade. Great line, great climbing.

Sash.C 06/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Dean
Keendan 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Thanks Jimmy for all the belays. Pumpy route with big reaches between good parts of the crack. Slopey traverse is worrying at the end!

Alice Thompson 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Michael Porter
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 11/May/13 Lead rpt
with Becky McGovern
Dibdawg 06/May/13 Lead dog
AlexD 06/May/13 2nd dog

so shiny!

with Ed
Dean177 06/May/13 2nd O/S

Managed it clean while removing the gear (not stepping on the block, not grabbing the rock bolt) Want to come back and get the full experience leading it!

Hidden 29/Apr/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead O/S
HarryB 12/Feb/13 TR dog
with Shunt
Jonnie Watkins ??/2013 -
Hidden 08/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Tomar 18/Nov/12 Lead dog

Fell off at the big ring at the top. Monster ramp-y pump. I have never experienced such an excrutiating burning feeling in my arms before. A bit gutted I have blown the onsight, me and my impatience. At least I am clocking nice air time on trad, good for my head

with Sash, laurent
Sash.C 18/Nov/12 Lead rpt
with Matt Ward
Stanners 15/Nov/12 Lead O/S

honours degree in pump from the university of trad!

Kemics 06/Oct/12 2nd dog

After the overlap pretty much dogged move by move. Would be hard in the dry, but was still wet from friday night downpours. So hard not to grab the giant bolt.

Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead
Luke Dawson 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 03/Aug/12 2nd rpt
with Mike
Aaron Lines 23/Jun/12 2nd dog
akhughes 19/Jun/12 2nd O/S
mikeshewring 09/Jun/12 Lead β

On Andy's gear

Spacetourist 02/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Lydia
mwatson ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Sash.C 22/May/12 Lead O/S
with Si Tappin
philhilo 12/May/12 2nd dog

Tried the lead but ran out of gas above the o'hang. Sooooo pumpy. Misha made it to the top eventually. Followed but wasted by the ring bolt.

with misha
Misha 12/May/12 Lead dog
with Phil
Nick Russell 28/Mar/12 2nd dog
_m.cox_ 16/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Spacetourist 16/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/Mar/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 11/Mar/12 Lead dog
Mark Warnett ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S

V.Pumpy but moves steady; the bolt tempts you upward!

with Princess Diana
Spacetourist 25/Feb/12 Lead rpt
with Ed Heslam
brices 15/Feb/12 Lead β

sooo pumped so much fun

Mike Goldthorp 25/Jan/12 Lead β

Phwoar, got a bit pumped on this! Nothin desperate but couldnt really recover even on the good holds, need to get some fitness! Definitely harder but maybe less cruxy than Them

with Nick, Giles, Cailean Harker
Cailean Harker 25/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Good climbing with loads of gear. Not much harder than Them.

maddy.c ??/2012 Lead
Sophie Nunn 13/Nov/11 2nd dog
with Toby
Toby Dunn 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S

wet.

with Sophie Nunn
Jake Young 06/Nov/11 2nd dog
with Arthur, Johny R
JRae 06/Nov/11 Lead dog
with Arthur
drcorbasisgod 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S
thomb 07/Oct/11 -
with Mike, Darren
thomasadixon 22/Sep/11 Lead RP

Flashed today. Damn pumpy still but never very hard. Yoyoed on 10-Aug-10.

with helen
Hidden 22/Sep/11 2nd dog
Glyn 20/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route. never too hard, but sustained!

with John
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Jul/11 TR RP
Adam Lincoln 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Si Tappin
Dan Jenkin 15/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Rosea Day, Tom Heslam
Gibbo 16/May/11 TR

Did 3 laps as training

with Pete Milner, Maddy moore
msoldn 10/May/11 2nd O/S

man, it doesn't get any easier even after having done it a couple of times now...

with Will
richsmithinbristol 04/May/11 Lead rpt

Onsighted years ago after putting it off for nearly a decade. Now a lovely training route!

billb 04/May/11 Lead

Lead clean having fell off a couple of years ago. what a great route!

gazhbo ?/May/11 Lead
Fran S8 22/Apr/11 2nd
Greg Pittam 17/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Raff, Clare Richardson
frank ramsay 01/Apr/11 Lead

Did this first in 1986. Then the guide positively encouraged you to use the concrete foothold. So same style again today!

with Aaron
Rosea Day ?/Apr/11 2nd dog
colesy ?/Apr/11 Lead

Not one hard move but pumpy! Had one go a couple of years ago and took a lob, happy to get it clean this time.

with Dean Russell
richiebongo 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Stepped on the concrete block just above the overhang (the shame!) but resisted grabbing the big iron spike (yay!), pumpier than a pumpy thing on a pumpy day.

with Nick Smith
Dave Turnbull, BMC 24/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Led first in 1987 ish

with Nick Colton
billb ?/Aug/10 Lead
richsmithinbristol ?/Aug/10 2nd
Bristoldave 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Chuffed

with Tom I, pete
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead dog
dan gibson 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with sam read
Hidden 11/Mar/10 TR dog
Hidden 04/Mar/10 TR dog
Pete Ogden ??/2010 Lead
with Nigel Birtwell
JulesV 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Will Boxen
Dunx 12/Sep/09 2nd dnf
with Ru
Hidden 01/Sep/09 Lead β
Hidden 31/Aug/09 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Jul/09 Lead dnf
Paz 14/Nov/08 TR rpt

Gipping. Top roping is totally ethical if you use a 9mm rope and run it over an edge.

with WG
KRB 04/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Pumpy but not difficult

with Chris & Martin
Paz 26/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with WG, HA
Hidden 26/Sep/08 Lead RP
Hidden 26/Sep/08 2nd dog
Mark Stevenson 12/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with Will Goldsmith
Paz 17/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Paz 15/Aug/08 2nd rpt
with WG
Hidden 31/May/08 2nd dog
IceMonkey1982 ?/May/08 -
Paz 08/Apr/08 Lead RP

Finally.

with WG
jfreeman 09/Mar/08 2nd
with Nick Gillet
Spacetourist ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
feilx 22/Dec/07 Lead O/S

step on concrete block and grabed iron ring... woops

pezzerrr 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/07 Lead β
Paul Robertson 08/Sep/06 2nd dog
with Paz
Paz 08/Sep/06 Lead dog

Fell on the bolt again.

with PE
tom.e 07/Aug/06 2nd dog

2 rests at crux

Bux 12/Jul/06 2nd dog

Soooo pumpy.

with Nick
Paz 28/May/06 Lead dog

With a fall again, this time on to the ring bolt. Haven't really got the top sorted.

with AB
Paz 09/May/06 Lead dog

With one fall faffing round unnecessarily trying to clip the ring. Grabbed it and finished it off

with AS
Ally Smith 09/May/06 Lead
Jo McCready ?/May/06 Lead β
with Steve Yeoman
cornishben ?/Apr/06 Lead dog
with Chris Sims
Kev Little ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Paz 19/Apr/05 2nd dog

Piss wet.

with PE
joe_alexander 09/Mar/05 2nd dog
with Nick Gillette
_m.cox_ ?/Jun/04 Lead β
with Adam Mulholland
Paz ?/May/04 2nd dog

many many rests.

with AS
Ally Smith ?/May/04 Lead
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
shoulders 14/Jan/01 Lead RP

With pre placed gear

with mart, andy sharp, pete lewis
Ally Smith ??/2001 -
Billg ?/Jul/00 Lead O/S
with Harry
Rob Kennard ??/2000 -
with John Southworth
Tim M ??/2000 Lead β
The Jazz Butcher ??/2000 Lead O/S
with John Southworth
Mathias Willerup ?/May/99 Lead dog

http://willerup.com/climbing/armsrace.html

with Tim Wilkinson
Hidden ??/1999 -
Roget 09/Mar/98 Lead rpt
with jon
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
duncan 30/Apr/95 2nd
with Dan Donovan
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/94 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
AndySL ??/1994 2nd RP
with Tim
Stoney Boy 23/May/93 Lead RP
with Tim Gould
mattnuttall 06/Mar/93 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
clark alston ?/Sep/92 Lead RP

Classic pumper.

Roget 31/Aug/92 Lead dog
with jon
Cowflinger ?/Feb/92 Lead
with Lewis
Nigel Coe ??/1992 2nd dog

I fell once.

with Ray Mardon
Hidden 30/May/88 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 10/May/87 Lead

One rest

DDDD ??/1987 -
sniffer ??/1987 2nd

High card intake required! A great route with consistent climbing throughout. Not for the weak in mind or body

with Chris Court
Steve Lewis 23/Oct/83 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
stp 04/Jun/83 Lead O/S

Always E3 5c

andy gittins ??/1983 -
Marcus ??/1983 -
with Wright Nichols
duncan ??/1982 Lead RP
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Bath Andy
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 44
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set