Rockfax Description
Superb and very sustained wall-climbing. Start at pockets in the wall just left of a small overhang, 4m right of the start of Arms Race.
Climb up the pockets to meet the base of a short right-trending crack. Climb the crack to a peg and step right to a thinner crack. Climb this past another peg to a move right and a shakeout on the blunt arete. Move up to a peg and then climb the steepening wall past a peg on the left to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Takes a disjointed crackline. Grade depends on finish used. The LH finish is best and hardest at E5. The original finish traverses R 20' below the top to the arete and is E4.

C Gore, L M McGinley (A Hall, P Long, finishing up Us 10/5/1980) (left hand finish M Corbett, G A Jenkin, M Donnan 26/4/1982), direct finish 10/5/1980 10/May/1980

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Ramp 'Super' Challenge, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?)

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Cassidy 14 May Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 14 May 2nd
with Cassidy
with Cassidy
dan gibson 7 May Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 7 May 2nd O/S
chrisscutt 29 Sep, 2018 2nd β
with afrosam
with afrosam
afrosam 29 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
GeorgT 4 Sep, 2018 2nd β
Stanners 4 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S very psyched to pull this off after keeping it in the back pocket for a while. What a brilliant route, intense classic upper wall action but with the odd friendly hold. Never thought id ever be climbing this sort of stuff onsight....very psyched..mind wondering to other possibilities if this genre is on the cards..
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
very psyched to pull this off after keeping it in the back pocket for a while. What a brilliant route, intense classic upper wall action but with the odd friendly hold. Never thought id ever be climbing this sort of stuff onsight....very psyched..mind wondering to other possibilities if this genre is on the cards..
with GT special (aka Georgia T)
Kris suriyo 15 Aug, 2018 Lead RP
Bristoldave 31 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
with Ev
with Ev
afrosam 31 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Got to the last peg ok then spent half hour trying to work out the next sequence before committing to anything. Stupidly pumped, dropped off. Tough sequence at the top, would be a hard OS
with RB1
Got to the last peg ok then spent half hour trying to work out the next sequence before committing to anything. Stupidly pumped, dropped off. Tough sequence at the top, would be a hard OS
with RB1
Jeromeg 22 Apr, 2018 2nd dog
with Savage
with Savage
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Duncan Campbell 29 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Brill!! Got a fairly bad flash pump having quickly warmed up on Lost Horizons which maybe didn't quite get enough blood flowing. Great climbing with tricky to read rock. Thought it was more like E5 6a with a bold start and lots of tricky moves but no particularly stopper ones. Trusting all those pegs feels exciting at the top though on abbing back down realised I had maybe missed a bit of kit.
with sam Harvie
Brill!! Got a fairly bad flash pump having quickly warmed up on Lost Horizons which maybe didn't quite get enough blood flowing. Great climbing with tricky to read rock. Thought it was more like E5 6a with a bold start and lots of tricky moves but no particularly stopper ones. Trusting all those pegs feels exciting at the top though on abbing back down realised I had maybe missed a bit of kit.
with sam Harvie
Ellis Bird 1 Jun, 2017 Lead
Wendy 13 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
with Sash.C
with Sash.C
Justin T ?Sep, 2016 Lead dnf In my defence it was lightly raining and a touch on the greasy side [whinge whinge], came off the moves up to the top peg which was disappointing, but then properly shut down trying to get up the final wall, just couldn't work out which way to go in a blizzard of poor holds. A bit like the hard bit of Mirage but lots more of it! Ended up escaping up the top of Arms Race.
In my defence it was lightly raining and a touch on the greasy side [whinge whinge], came off the moves up to the top peg which was disappointing, but then properly shut down trying to get up the final wall, just couldn't work out which way to go in a blizzard of poor holds. A bit like the hard bit of Mirage but lots more of it! Ended up escaping up the top of Arms Race.
Cailean Harker 10 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Absolute quality. Enjoyed that.
with Ben Norman
Absolute quality. Enjoyed that.
with Ben Norman
Hidden 16 Jul, 2016 Lead RP
blaza1 10 Jul, 2016 Lead dog Got lost at the end
Got lost at the end
Hidden 6 Jul, 2016 Lead β
Caspian Johnson 6 Jul, 2016 Lead RP second E5, felt safe and steady
second E5, felt safe and steady
Pippa 5 May, 2016 Lead β
with Caspian
with Caspian
Caspian Johnson 5 May, 2016 Lead dog
with Pip
with Pip
Bristoldave 5 Mar, 2016 Lead dog Fell off the confusing last bit.
with john
Fell off the confusing last bit.
with john
John Tanner 5 Mar, 2016 2nd dog
richiebongo 14 Oct, 2015 Lead dog Lost my way on a sea of poor holds and so took a few falls, however its not so hard when you know how.
with Jon Didymus, Nick Smith
Lost my way on a sea of poor holds and so took a few falls, however its not so hard when you know how.
with Jon Didymus, Nick Smith
tobydunford 18 May, 2015 TR dog
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
i_a_coops 22 Apr, 2015 Lead G/U Tried to go in between the two finishes first go. Bloody routes with rules ;)
with Hugo
Tried to go in between the two finishes first go. Bloody routes with rules ;)
with Hugo
brices 19 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Felt really steady on this after bold as love, great route
with Jack_F
Felt really steady on this after bold as love, great route
with Jack_F
Nick Russell 4 Mar, 2015 Lead RP Felt easy this time.
Felt easy this time.
Nick Russell 2 Mar, 2015 Lead dog Logged some more air miles from the top moves. Turns out it's pretty easy when you know how.
Logged some more air miles from the top moves. Turns out it's pretty easy when you know how.
Hidden 11 Oct, 2014 Lead β
JBO 18 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Wasn't expecting the headwall to be so tricky!
Wasn't expecting the headwall to be so tricky!
Alex Winter 17 May, 2014 2nd rpt
with Nick
with Nick
Nick Russell 17 May, 2014 Lead dog Decided to go for the onsight - wasn't expecting much - and fell off moving up to the good holds after the shake-out. I'd probably have just fallen off later anyway. Great route, hard to read.
Decided to go for the onsight - wasn't expecting much - and fell off moving up to the good holds after the shake-out. I'd probably have just fallen off later anyway. Great route, hard to read.
Alex Winter 14 May, 2014 Lead RP Had flashed on a top-rope at the end of a session last week. First go today. Really good climbing. If you make it to the slot in one piece then it's a 7a clip-up! Maybe not 6b -- there aren't really any very hard moves -- although it's tricky to read at the top.
with Ben Darby
Had flashed on a top-rope at the end of a session last week. First go today. Really good climbing. If you make it to the slot in one piece then it's a 7a clip-up! Maybe not 6b -- there aren't really any very hard moves -- although it's tricky to read at the top.
with Ben Darby
Cheese Monkey 14 May, 2014 2nd dog 2 falls just ran out of go
2 falls just ran out of go
Keendan 25 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Just a clip up, but pretty scary at the top with a very blind sequence on random crystal bumps. Essentially safe with enough good pegs even if the top one blows.
Just a clip up, but pretty scary at the top with a very blind sequence on random crystal bumps. Essentially safe with enough good pegs even if the top one blows.
AJM 24 Jun, 2013 2nd dog Nearly! 1 rest.
Nearly! 1 rest.
Mike Goldthorp 24 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Superb sustained wall climbing, quite thin at times but never desperate, not 6b but several 6a moves, such nice rock - cracks, crimps, pockets, a slopey top, classic!
with Muttly, AJM
Superb sustained wall climbing, quite thin at times but never desperate, not 6b but several 6a moves, such nice rock - cracks, crimps, pockets, a slopey top, classic!
with Muttly, AJM
gazhbo 17 Feb, 2013 Lead RP Bold start - Easy when you know how. Better route than I thought it would be.
Bold start - Easy when you know how. Better route than I thought it would be.
drcorbasisgod ?Sep, 2012 Lead dnf
Tom Heslam 2 Jun, 2012 Lead rpt
with Lydia
with Lydia
_m.cox_ 16 Mar, 2012 2nd rpt
Tom Heslam 16 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with _m.cox_
with _m.cox_
pezzerrr 14 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Mar, 2012 2nd
Ross Davidson 12 Feb, 2012 Lead dog Tried twice and fell off just before I could clip the final peg on the left. Worked out easier/ less scary beta for the final crux though so should get next time
with Tomar
Tried twice and fell off just before I could clip the final peg on the left. Worked out easier/ less scary beta for the final crux though so should get next time
with Tomar
Tomar 5 Feb, 2012 Lead RP E5 version. 2nd go today, have worked the route on previous session. Such a nice route.
with Mike Coles
E5 version. 2nd go today, have worked the route on previous session. Such a nice route.
with Mike Coles
Richard Hall ?Feb, 2012 Lead RP Unsure of date. As with all the routes on this wall Low Profile is significantly easier when you know where the holds are. Safe 7a (ish).
with Martin Crocker
Unsure of date. As with all the routes on this wall Low Profile is significantly easier when you know where the holds are. Safe 7a (ish).
with Martin Crocker
colesy 16 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 30 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S A fairly steady E5, though a couple of sections felt tricky to read in a completely unchalked state.
with Pete Saunders
A fairly steady E5, though a couple of sections felt tricky to read in a completely unchalked state.
with Pete Saunders
Ross Davidson 22 Sep, 2011 TR dog Have got all the moves wired. Should be able to top rope cleanly very soon and then onto the lead
Have got all the moves wired. Should be able to top rope cleanly very soon and then onto the lead
_m.cox_ 24 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
with Jason Williams
with Jason Williams
richsmithinbristol 18 Jun, 2011 Lead RP Glad to get this after falling off last week at the top peg. Reading the guidebook always helps.Total classic.
Glad to get this after falling off last week at the top peg. Reading the guidebook always helps.Total classic.
Pippa 14 Jun, 2011 2nd dog
Paz 17 Aug, 2008 Lead dog I actually made it to the top this time, even if I did sit on all the pegs and chicken out up the arete.
I actually made it to the top this time, even if I did sit on all the pegs and chicken out up the arete.
richgac 16 Jul, 2008 Lead rpt Clean after failing the o/s a few weeks ago.
with Army Tom
Clean after failing the o/s a few weeks ago.
with Army Tom
richgac 24 Jun, 2008 Lead dog A breakthrough for me, first attempt at E5. Nearly, but made a route finding error at the top.
with Gaz
A breakthrough for me, first attempt at E5. Nearly, but made a route finding error at the top.
with Gaz
Paz 15 Apr, 2008 Lead dnf Sat on penultimate peg, did a move then bailed right.
Sat on penultimate peg, did a move then bailed right.
Hidden 21 Aug, 2007 Lead dog
Kev Little ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Paz 18 May, 2004 2nd dog 1 fall.
1 fall.
Ally Smith 18 May, 2004 Lead
with Paz
with Paz
Ally Smith ??, 2004 -
Hidden 24 Apr, 2000 Lead RP
Roget 14 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
Pete Ogden 3 Jul, 1999 2nd dog
guy xavier percival ??, 1999 Lead RP Did the E4 finish
Did the E4 finish
Matt Clifton ??, 1991 Lead
Pete Ogden ??, 1990 Lead dog
with Nigel Birtwell
with Nigel Birtwell
Adrian Gostick 5 Feb, 1988 Lead
Hidden ?Oct, 1987 2nd dog
stp 1 Dec, 1983 Lead Great route. 6a not 6b. Original finish is E4 and direct is worth E5.
Great route. 6a not 6b. Original finish is E4 and direct is worth E5.
duncan ?Oct, 1983 Lead RP
with Paul Smith
with Paul Smith
Steve Bell ??, 1981 -
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 23
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set