The crack in the LHS of the wall. Most people abseil off from here although an E3 6b (1 p.a.) pitch does continue above.

[If you plan to abb off, please take a knife to clean the old tat off. And get rid of any wires etc which are past their sell-by instead of just adding more crap - its an unsightly mess otherwise - AJM]

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Lundy, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.


ClimberDateStyle
Oscar Popels 26/Sep 2nd

Amazing climbing with awesome holds. I got some nice toe Jams in. The belay abseil is in horrible condition. Rotting pegs, nuts with fraying swages and tape. It looked like a plastic bag strung about in a tree.

badgerjockey 26/Sep Lead O/S

Wonderfully pushy crack climbing but so well protected and with great rests. Really enjoyed this, despite watching Jim hit the deck from Scrabble and then making friends with The Worst Insitu Belay On Earth. Surely a candidate for a 2BB if ever there was one.

with Rich
rich_hw 08/Sep Lead rpt
with gavin_pcc
Pete Wimbush 05/Sep Lead

Lead top pitch with a couple of points of aid

with Chris Hindley
lizbarilepage 31/Aug 2nd
with Clarke Boulter
Hidden 30/Aug Lead O/S
afrosam 30/Aug 2nd
with RB1
mapperley samurai 28/Aug 2nd
with Spenser Gray
Tom.Priestley 27/Aug Lead O/S

Ab'd off the chaos

lundyman 02/Jan Lead O/S
Steve Lenartowicz 20/Sep/16 Lead

Abseiled off after P1

with Clare
poeter210 12/Sep/16 2nd O/S
garywong 12/Sep/16 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Sustained. Glorious. My arms and shoulders were shot after 6 days of climbing and I found the final moves onto the hand traverse a test of motivation. Still aching 3 days later.

with Scott
Hidden 09/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 07/Sep/16 2nd
Chris Ebbutt 07/Sep/16 Lead

First pitch only. Brilliant sustained crack climbing.

with Nick W., Emma
Geoffers 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Tim
Kaiser999 ?/Aug/15 Lead
with Adam Richardson
3 Names 19/Sep/14 Lead

After Martin took a whipper!

smolders 19/Sep/14 2nd

Lead P1 up to final crack, but then fell off near the top and took big whipper. Backed-off route and V led it.

with Vinnie
khalidq 13/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with James Hall
James Oswald ?/Sep/14 2nd

Abseiled off after P1.

guy757 19/Aug/14 -
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tombushell 01/Aug/14 2nd
Sam Husband 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Finished it for Tom as he fell off. Quite easy up to there and with plenty of gear. The ab is a mess, had nothing to clean it with but this would be helpful I added a BD size 13, mallion and sling to the rusty pitons and existing wires that are there. It should all be stripped and perhaps some shiny new pitons put in..

with Tom
Nick Russell 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

A really excellent pitch! If there was a consistent top-out it would be worthy of 3*. Top-end VS, with a definite sting in the tail...

with Emily
Dan 85 16/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Ed
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead dog
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
gowla 29/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Alex Burns
Hidden 25/Sep/12 2nd
James Oswald 18/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Brilliant jamming up the groove. Harder than expected at the top.

with Gwilym
victim of mathematics 17/Sep/12 2nd rpt

Trickier than I remembered.

crossdressingrodney 17/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Brilliant, but the crux at the top took me by surprise.

erica 15/Sep/12 2nd
with John
John Brayshaw 14/Sep/12 Lead dog

Quality climb, shame about the fall at the top

with Erica
mjeffery 14/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Rob
Graeme Hammond 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Great pitch :)

Hidden 14/Aug/12 2nd
dan gibson 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch with 1pa, felt about E1 this way

with Ed Ratcliffe
Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 20/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 25/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Sep/11 AltLd
Kevster 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
HimTiggins 18/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Harder than Formula 1, which is graded correctly. This isn't!

with Tom Lambert
spondulix 17/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Ben
givemetea 08/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Craig Jenkins
Guy Wilson ??/2011 Lead
climbingpixie 15/Sep/10 2nd dog

First pitch only. Rested near the top because I was pumped.

with Becky, Andy Hobson
Bex_M 15/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 15/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Bob M 12/Sep/10 2nd

A great pitch but tough for the grade. We both thought it harder than Formula One!

Dave Musgrove 11/Sep/10 Lead

Pitch 1

with Andy Shaw
Hidden 11/Sep/10 2nd O/S
benkelsey 10/Sep/10 Lead O/S

only first pitch (VS) brilliant climb - too mjuch tat at the top needs sorting out. still a bit damp on the final moves.

Hidden 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
steve2006 ?/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 30/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
Andy Chubb 24/Sep/09 -

First pitch only - great climbing.

with Nick Gregory
Hidden 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S
mick1jones 10/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Rich A-Wilkes 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Tom
Mike_Hayes 05/Sep/09 -
JWB 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Tough VS and felt more like a hard 5a move near the top.

with Jon Clarke
Hidden 06/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 02/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Frostie ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Owen
gripped01 ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Stew Boyce
Ellen Cobby 25/Jun/09 2nd
Adam Booth 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
greedo ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Martin hoare
Hidden 14/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Jim Slater 13/Sep/08 Lead O/S

VS first pitch only. Felt tough for the grade.

with Hugh Wormington
hash 13/Sep/08 2nd O/S
with DafSWMC
DafSWMC 13/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Hash
chrisallan ?/Aug/08 Lead dog
zero six ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
victim of mathematics 05/May/08 Lead O/S

Pitch one only then abseiled off. A really fantastic pitch.

with David Riley
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/07 2nd O/S
lost.arrow 03/Sep/06 AltLd
with Richard Ball
Chris the Tall 25/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Felt like the hardest route of the week. Moral of the tale - don't leave your mates in the pub in the company of a sandbagger !

with Nick & Kate
Hidden 25/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Katex 23/Aug/06 2nd

First pitch only

with Chris Moor, Nick Smith
shoulders 03/Aug/06 Lead
Duncan Hardy 02/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Paul Smith
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
Bella 13/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Lucy
csalvage 05/Sep/05 2nd O/S

First pitch only

with Bryan
Hidden ??/2005 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 07/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Craven MC
ferdia 06/Sep/04 2nd
Steve Crowe 17/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with KM
Batty 10/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
Okecroak 16/Aug/03 Lead
Chris Ebbutt 16/Aug/03 2nd
with Dave R.
five ?/Aug/03 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Sep/02 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/02 AltLd
Hidden 08/Sep/01 2nd
Roget 05/Aug/01 AltLd O/S

top pitch with aid point is HVS

with baccy
LC ?/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/01 AltLd
Rock Fairy ??/2000 2nd
with Carl
Marti999 ??/2000 Lead
WB ?/Sep/99 AltLd O/S
with Guy
DafSWMC ?/Sep/98 Lead
with ICMC
Paul-Michael 05/Aug/98 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch.

with Nick Hanie
Hidden ?/Aug/98 Lead
VPJB ??/1998 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 17/Sep/97 Lead
pauldrew ?/Sep/97 Lead
Pete Nugent 19/Aug/96 2nd rpt

p.1 only - with Shad?

Rog Wilko ?/Aug/96 Lead

Pitch 1 only. Makes a great VS.

with Debbie Wilkinson
Scott McRae ?/Aug/96 2nd O/S
with Darren Lambert
Hidden 18/Aug/95 Lead
Steve Lenartowicz ??/1995 -
colin milton 26/Sep/94 Lead
with eric milton
mikej 30/Aug/94 2nd
with Mike Byles
Martin Bennett 02/Sep/93 -
with Paul Dooay
RichardMc 10/Sep/92 AltLd
with John Evans
whispering nic ?/Sep/92 Lead O/S
with Ali W
Hidden ?/Aug/92 -
mattnuttall 14/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with Mike Preston
garywalker147 ?/Sep/91 AltLd O/S
with Mob
Hidden 27/Aug/91 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/91 Lead
Hidden 17/Sep/88 2nd
steve taylor ??/1988 AltLd
with Mike Beresford
Tom V ?/Aug/86 -
RichardMc 04/Sep/83 Lead
with John Evans
RichardMc 26/Sep/76 Lead O/S
with Betty Seifert
paul59 09/Apr/75 2nd
with Geoff Read
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 38
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set