80m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A phenomenally-exposed route that voyages out across the lip of the Great Cave prior to climbing the massive headwall above. Start as for Moonraker at its hanging stance.
1) 5c, 36m. Follow Moonraker to the chockstone at the top of its steep crack. Traverse right, out across the lip of the cave to a corner, and climb this to a roof. Traverse rightwards beneath the roof via some constricted moves to an old peg and continue for 3m to a footledge and hanging stance. Friend 3 will be useful for the belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Move back left to a steep corner/groove and climb it to an overhang at its end. Move out left and up to a deep slot before climbing the wall above, leftwards to a good ledge. The short wall on the right gains a cave and a huge thread belay.
3) 5b, 23m. Move left out of the cave and climb steep ground to a narrow groove on the right which is followed to a ledge. Ascend the leaning wall above to an overhang and pull though this with difficulty to better holds and easier climbing to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Awesome inescapable climbing above the big cave. One of the South West's finest even if you do meet a bit of dirt and the occasional flower.

Article on Dreadnought by John Cox here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1307

Great Historical article and pictures from Frank cannings here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1453

Frank Cannings & Pat Littlejohn 4/4/69 FFA Littlejohn 1977

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Stephen Horne - Rockfax 26/Aug AltLd O/S
with Caff, Kate Keltie
Katekeltie 26/Aug 2nd O/S

Crazy exposed positions above the massive cave, really fun route, especially in a very sociable 3 with fatboy and caff.

m.powell02 12/Aug AltLd O/S

My first outing to Berry Head was not a disappointment! A good warm up traversing/wading around the Great Cave. I lead P2. Some reasonably hard moves on the first pitch but no absolute stoppers. Great position and awesome exposure!

drysori 05/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Nov/16 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 11/Sep/16 AltLd rpt

easier than last time, dry

with Frank Ramsey
frank ramsay 10/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
with Dave Turnbull
Stroppy 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3, absolutely fantastic route, obscenely atmospheric. Hanging off the belay at the end of P1 is an unsettling experience especially after one of my cams blew on weighting! Ropes dangling down towards the sea. Hard work over (except for getting lost on P2). Incredibly psyched to onsight this on a perfect bank holiday Monday.

Alex the Alex 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Dreadnought!!! He fears nothing! Great lead from Ed on P1. Watched him pop a cam on setting up the belay... Fist sized block flying past into the water. Really enjoyed the initial traverse and found the last traverse on P1 really tough. Nerves pretty jangled at the belay. P2 fairly intense as well. Ended up going right (well... wrong) from the roof and heading up Caveman for a section before traversing hard left along a good but sandy break. More outrageous exposure. Mega belay after P2 and superb enjoyable P3 (thanks to the gardeners). What a day.

with Ed
funsized 28/Aug/16 AltLd

What a mother!

with Fi
slowmotion 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Ooh slimy slimy sandy slimy. Traversing in with ropes and rack was treacherous on slippery holds to start. Then Jonny did a great job battling the rain and fear getting along the crux traverse. Then after a lot of backwards and forwarding, whimping and whining, I managed to leave the belay ledge to lead pitch 2 which wasn't so wet. The rest was fun.

with jonny P
benkelsey 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

P1. Wild adventure with some snappy rock on the initial traverse across the lip. Had done far too much Dws all weekend so felt shattered before starting. First pitch is excellent.

with Tony stone
Nick Russell 26/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Great to revisit this. All clean this time, and I led the top pitch which I'd previously seconded. It's pretty intimidating at E3.

Hidden 26/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
AJ007 01/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2015 -
msoldn 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

One of the very best!

with Mark
Avon Man 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Superb. We snapped a peg on the hanging belay at the end of the crux pitch, so only one peg left now, but there are a few decent gear placements too.

with msoldn
Brian H 05/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! This one has been on the list for years and was even better than I expected. Led first big pitch to hanging belay and (newly gardened) top pitch - Pete led p2.

R2B 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Very greasy and a fragrance I'll never forget.

with Paul Roberts
Duncan Campbell 30/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Cor blimey. Good ol' adventure! Led P1 and 3. As always the approach gets the juices flowing. Found P1 had some tricky sections but Fortunately some good rests. Belay is a bit of an arse biscuit to find the good bits but is good and isn't a hanging nightmare. top pitches also good, but loose or vegetated. Needing a poo all the way up tainted this route slightly for me. Thank you again Hero Patrick.

with Bubbles
BC 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and seconded 3 and 1.

Hidden ??/2014 AltLd
arandall 15/Oct/13 2nd O/S

Not really a clean onsight as i did have to hang on the rope to get a stubborn nut out but i did do all the moves in sequence, so ill blame remus for the nut. Brilliant climb, haven't had so much exposure in ages and as all the hard bits are traverses they're really scary.

Hidden 15/Oct/13 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

An outstanding route. Bruce had done it before but that was in another lifetime. I led pitch 1 and 3. I found it very hard to get going on the traverse. It's blind to start with and then bunched up. I managed to reach some low foot holds on the last bit so only a bit bunched up. Felt commiting as you know your going to be hanging in mid space if you come off. Pitch 2 is in an amazing position and quite hard. Great thread belay. Top pitch is fine. The whole thing felt like E4 to me.

with Bruce Woodley
brices 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Charlie, Sash
Hidden 25/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 22/Aug/13 AltLd

lead pitches 1 and 3, great situations but the climbing was a bit disappointing. Would have fallen just before the peg but glanced down at FatRob and the look of derision on his face gave me the impetus to do one final lunge for the jugs.

with FatRob
Hidden 11/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 10/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Awesome route! Shame about the style. I think I made the crux hard for myself (certainly felt like 6a and Andrew said he did it very differently!) and rested on a cam after. Still, wild positions, a great experience and I'd definitely do it again.

HappyTrundler 10/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Fully deserves it's status as a monster sea cliff classic adventure, steep, intimidating, good job young Nick was able to bale me out - was hard, could only lead the top pitch, and fell off that, near the top, good gear though!...

kingholmesy ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3.

Dizz 29/Sep/12 AltLd

Led p2 - brilliant route. 2 annoying slips p1

with Hugh T
Ed Babs 14/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P1 + 3. There is time to climb moonraker and dreadnought on one low tide. Sensational traverse out over cave to first belay.

with Eddie Young
quiffhanger 25/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Very fun. Difficult tides so abbed down to an obvious corner halfway up the first pitch of moonraker. Worked well - just a little down-climb to get established. Great airy awkward moves, you could get very pumped but with miles of air below no need to place too much gear. Position of second belay is just awesome.

with Matt
JBO 12/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Exposed and amazing climbing on the first pitch, did the route in light rain. I think we were some of the first people on it after the restriction lifted so it was a bit dirty but the climbing made up for it.

Dale Turrell 02/Aug/12 2nd dog

2 falls.

with Dave
Bristoldave 02/Aug/12 Lead dog

Fell off at end of p1. Wasn't climbing well. Amazing route!

with Dale
Pete Graham 24/Feb/12 AltLd
with Ian Burton, Ben Silvestre
burto 24/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
with ben silvestre, pete graham
Hidden ??/2012 -
robbie Warke 16/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Great day, brought back memories!

with Jamie Parfrey
Hidden 08/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
John Mcshea 08/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, with wild positions, a beautiful place to be. No guidebook with us as someone had kindly chalked the way for us a couple of days earlier. A route of distinct aroma.

Justin T 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Fantastic full value climbing! Abbed down moonraker to get in as tides not ideal, dodged fulmar vomit on the way down, real adventure climbing throughout - dirty, damp, sandy breaks on the crux pitch, comedy "slot" and awesome thread belay on second, nice though-provoking wall climbing on third. To the person who complained below about it "needing a good clean", do you think perhaps you're missing the point?

with Crispin
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Aug/11 AltLd
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Marcus ??/2011 -
dan gibson 28/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
philhilo 01/Aug/10 AltLd

Wow! Wow! Wow! What a route.Drove through pouring rain to reach Brixham in the dry. Soloed round at sea level to hanging belay. Lots of faff sorting ropes. Lead first pitch, steep, hard, steep, hard.1st crux took some working out. 2nd break full of green scunge making holds so slippery. Got peg and slipped off. Annoyed. Misha lead rest of route, still awesome, steep and sustained. We were watched by a harbour seal in the blue water. Topped out in the sunset,best route ever? Home for 2am. Would do it again tomorrow it was that good (might be a little less fragrant!).

with misha
Hidden 01/Aug/10 2nd dog
Misha 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Best multipitch route I've done to date. Wild exposure, sustained climbing and the prospect of dangling in the air if you come off on P1. Phil did a great job of leading P1. I did P2 (hard E1, or at least felt that way straight after seconding P1, had to rest on the belay after backing off the first few moves) and P3 (easy E1). Really pleased to pull this one off as it was raining in St Agnes in the morning and kept raining most of the way to Brixham, in fact it was drizzling as Phil set off but we figured it would be ok due to the overhangs and were proved right as P1 stayed dry and the drizzle had stopped by the time I set off on P2. The final traverse on P1 was very greasy though. Second ascent of the season - a team got in before us but they must have done a crafty traverse into P1 after abbing in. Guano city on the P2 belay but at least it had dried out! Started scrambling at 3pm and topped out at 9.30pm. Awesome.

with Phil
Toby Dunn 18/Aug/09 AltLd
with Andy Reeve
Jack_F 13/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Second E3 ever, Sandbagged into an apparent "path" By farn which resulted in the most terrifying and amazing trad experience I have had!

with sam farnsworth
Chad123 12/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Great route but not worth 3 stars unless it gets a clean - pitch 2 was slimy and muddy, pith 3 loose rock and pitch 4 vegetated. Great moves and positions though, Emily almost got the crux clean. Doing some of Rainbow bridge after was even more fun!

with Emily
twright180 ??/2009 Lead dnf
tuftynick ??/2008 -
chris j 28/Sep/07 2nd rpt
with Fiend
eddy-on-the-rocks 10/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Ben did the business pitch

with Ben
tonanf ?/Jun/07 Lead dnf
with james
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
feilx 13/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris Havill
Hidden ??/2006 -
chris j 01/Oct/05 2nd

Slightly out of my depth!

ukb & bmc shark 01/Oct/05 Lead

If you are reading this Chris - sorry about the cams popping on the belay !

Hidden ?/Aug/01 AltLd
Hidden 12/Aug/00 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??/1998 AltLd
with Mark Carnall
Derek Ryden ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Dave the Leg
Hidden ??/1996 2nd
FATBOYFAT ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Al Brady
mattnuttall 05/Aug/93 AltLd O/S

WOW! see picture on UKC. Lead 5c pitch

with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Glenn Sutcliffe 29/Aug/92 AltLd
with keefe
keefe 29/Aug/92 AltLd O/S
Nick Biven 09/Sep/91 AltLd O/S

Outstanding - climbed in two big pitches. I led pitches 1&2 in a oner to hanging belay.

with Nick White
clark alston ?/Aug/91 AltLd

Fabulous route. Had led the crux some years before but had a rest point.

with Dick Hanson
Hidden 13/Sep/90 AltLd dog
Johnny Baker 10/Oct/89 AltLd O/S

Epic. Got this route 2nd time after previous attempt with Derek Toulalan and a retreat into the sea from the 2nd belay in a thunderstorm.

with Dave Webster
frank ramsay ?/Nov/88 Lead
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 27/Oct/85 AltLd O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1984 AltLd O/S


with Ian Milne
stp ??/1983 -
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Unsure
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Steve Bell ?/May/79 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
pete osullivan ?/Sep/78 AltLd O/S

I led up to the last pitch then Pip said he wanted to have a go. He led all the way to a few feet from the top then fell off. His feet ended up hanging over the lip of the cave belay. It must have been a rather chastening lob of about 50 feet, he won the Plymouth Biggles award that year.

with Pip (Chris) George
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High E4
Mid E4
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High E3
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High E2
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Votes cast 21
High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 22
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