80m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A phenomenally-exposed route that voyages out across the lip of the Great Cave prior to climbing the massive headwall above. Start as for Moonraker at its hanging stance.
1) 5c, 36m. Follow Moonraker to the chockstone at the top of its steep crack. Traverse right, out across the lip of the cave to a corner, and climb this to a roof. Traverse rightwards beneath the roof via some constricted moves to an old peg and continue for 3m to a footledge and hanging stance. Friend 3 will be useful for the belay.
2) 5b, 20m. Move back left to a steep corner/groove and climb it to an overhang at its end. Move out left and up to a deep slot before climbing the wall above, leftwards to a good ledge. The short wall on the right gains a cave and a huge thread belay.
3) 5b, 23m. Move left out of the cave and climb steep ground to a narrow groove on the right which is followed to a ledge. Ascend the leaning wall above to an overhang and pull though this with difficulty to better holds and easier climbing to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Awesome inescapable climbing above the big cave. One of the South West's finest even if you do meet a bit of dirt and the occasional flower.

Article on Dreadnought by John Cox here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1307

Great Historical article and pictures from Frank cannings here - http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=1453

Frank Cannings & Pat Littlejohn 4/4/69 FFA Littlejohn 1977

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, MIA logbook must haves!, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Moving to Devon, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ferdia 29 Aug AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 29 Aug AltLd Only accepted my brain wasn't in gear for a committing route today when eyeing up the cramped traverse past the peg, by which stage I hadn't much choice.
with ferdia
Only accepted my brain wasn't in gear for a committing route today when eyeing up the cramped traverse past the peg, by which stage I hadn't much choice.
with ferdia
tom.wp6 4 Aug AltLd O/S The exposure...........
with Harry Lewis
The exposure...........
with Harry Lewis
harry_lewis 4 Aug AltLd O/S led P1 and P3
with tom.wp6
led P1 and P3
with tom.wp6
Hidden 26 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
davkeo 26 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S An adventure all the way. Incredible situations. Exciting & airy crux. Amazing.
An adventure all the way. Incredible situations. Exciting & airy crux. Amazing.
Hidden 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
kennythescot 1 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Amazing route, somewhat under estimated it tho. We left a QD at the top of the first pitch, if anyone picks it up we could do with it back. PM me ????
Amazing route, somewhat under estimated it tho. We left a QD at the top of the first pitch, if anyone picks it up we could do with it back. PM me ????
Lee_Meaden 1 Aug, 2018 2nd dnf Went looking for an adventure and got it in bagfulls with a good dose of humble pie! Seconded first pitch clean...just... Handhold broke on initial traverse setting disco leg and death grip into full effect. Underestimated time it would take so got lowered into the drink from hanging belay and swam to ledge to bail out. Ziplinned gear down, set up anchor and partner abbed direct to ledge. Solod out very wet with tails between our legs! Will return more prepared
Went looking for an adventure and got it in bagfulls with a good dose of humble pie! Seconded first pitch clean...just... Handhold broke on initial traverse setting disco leg and death grip into full effect. Underestimated time it would take so got lowered into the drink from hanging belay and swam to ledge to bail out. Ziplinned gear down, set up anchor and partner abbed direct to ledge. Solod out very wet with tails between our legs! Will return more prepared
tonanf ?Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Pep
with Pep
JendeHoxar 4 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 4 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Phenomenal. Same day as Moonraker, sausage in your pocket makes you climb like a rocket (it's good for you, don't knock it). A bunch of bastard jetskiers came round, made loads of noise, scared our friend seal away and took some pics. One complained not having internet to post on Instagram #ladsladslads #soextreme
Phenomenal. Same day as Moonraker, sausage in your pocket makes you climb like a rocket (it's good for you, don't knock it). A bunch of bastard jetskiers came round, made loads of noise, scared our friend seal away and took some pics. One complained not having internet to post on Instagram #ladsladslads #soextreme
Stephen Horne - Rockfax 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Caff, Katekeltie
with Caff, Katekeltie
Katekeltie 26 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S Crazy exposed positions above the massive cave, really fun route, especially in a very sociable 3 with fatboy and caff.
Crazy exposed positions above the massive cave, really fun route, especially in a very sociable 3 with fatboy and caff.
m.powell02 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S My first outing to Berry Head was not a disappointment! A good warm up traversing/wading around the Great Cave. I lead P2. Some reasonably hard moves on the first pitch but no absolute stoppers. Great position and awesome exposure!
My first outing to Berry Head was not a disappointment! A good warm up traversing/wading around the Great Cave. I lead P2. Some reasonably hard moves on the first pitch but no absolute stoppers. Great position and awesome exposure!
leadmat ??, 2017 Lead O/S pitch one completed. ab off due to slow party ahead
with Chris Hingston
pitch one completed. ab off due to slow party ahead
with Chris Hingston
Wil Treasure 5 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd rpt easier than last time, dry
with Frank Ramsey
easier than last time, dry
with Frank Ramsey
frank ramsay 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd rpt
with Dave Turnbull
with Dave Turnbull
Stroppy 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3, absolutely fantastic route, obscenely atmospheric. Hanging off the belay at the end of P1 is an unsettling experience especially after one of my cams blew on weighting! Ropes dangling down towards the sea. Hard work over (except for getting lost on P2). Incredibly psyched to onsight this on a perfect bank holiday Monday.
Led P1 and P3, absolutely fantastic route, obscenely atmospheric. Hanging off the belay at the end of P1 is an unsettling experience especially after one of my cams blew on weighting! Ropes dangling down towards the sea. Hard work over (except for getting lost on P2). Incredibly psyched to onsight this on a perfect bank holiday Monday.
Hidden 29 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
funsized 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd What a mother!
What a mother!
slowmotion 28 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Ooh slimy slimy sandy slimy. Traversing in with ropes and rack was treacherous on slippery holds to start. Then Jonny did a great job battling the rain and fear getting along the crux traverse. Then after a lot of backwards and forwarding, whimping and whining, I managed to leave the belay ledge to lead pitch 2 which wasn't so wet. The rest was fun.
Ooh slimy slimy sandy slimy. Traversing in with ropes and rack was treacherous on slippery holds to start. Then Jonny did a great job battling the rain and fear getting along the crux traverse. Then after a lot of backwards and forwarding, whimping and whining, I managed to leave the belay ledge to lead pitch 2 which wasn't so wet. The rest was fun.
benkelsey 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S P1. Wild adventure with some snappy rock on the initial traverse across the lip. Had done far too much Dws all weekend so felt shattered before starting. First pitch is excellent.
with Tony stone
P1. Wild adventure with some snappy rock on the initial traverse across the lip. Had done far too much Dws all weekend so felt shattered before starting. First pitch is excellent.
with Tony stone
Nick Russell 26 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt Great to revisit this. All clean this time, and I led the top pitch which I'd previously seconded. It's pretty intimidating at E3.
Great to revisit this. All clean this time, and I led the top pitch which I'd previously seconded. It's pretty intimidating at E3.
Ross Davidson 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Awesome adventure. It started with abbing down with a foot of rope over. I belayed off of the abseil rope and managed to second the first pitch before the sea managed to soak me. 3 great pitches
Awesome adventure. It started with abbing down with a foot of rope over. I belayed off of the abseil rope and managed to second the first pitch before the sea managed to soak me. 3 great pitches
Hidden 1 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
AJ007 1 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2015 -
msoldn 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S One of the very best!
with Mark
One of the very best!
with Mark
Avon Man 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Superb. We snapped a peg on the hanging belay at the end of the crux pitch, so only one peg left now, but there are a few decent gear placements too.
with msoldn
Superb. We snapped a peg on the hanging belay at the end of the crux pitch, so only one peg left now, but there are a few decent gear placements too.
with msoldn
Brian H 5 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S Brilliant! This one has been on the list for years and was even better than I expected. Led first big pitch to hanging belay and (newly gardened) top pitch - Pete led p2.
Brilliant! This one has been on the list for years and was even better than I expected. Led first big pitch to hanging belay and (newly gardened) top pitch - Pete led p2.
Russell Blackaller 20 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Very greasy and a fragrance I'll never forget.
with Paul Roberts
Very greasy and a fragrance I'll never forget.
with Paul Roberts
Duncan Campbell 30 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Cor blimey. Good ol' adventure! Led P1 and 3. As always the approach gets the juices flowing. Found P1 had some tricky sections but Fortunately some good rests. Belay is a bit of an arse biscuit to find the good bits but is good and isn't a hanging nightmare. top pitches also good, but loose or vegetated. Needing a poo all the way up tainted this route slightly for me. Thank you again Hero Patrick.
Cor blimey. Good ol' adventure! Led P1 and 3. As always the approach gets the juices flowing. Found P1 had some tricky sections but Fortunately some good rests. Belay is a bit of an arse biscuit to find the good bits but is good and isn't a hanging nightmare. top pitches also good, but loose or vegetated. Needing a poo all the way up tainted this route slightly for me. Thank you again Hero Patrick.
BC 18 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P2 and seconded 3 and 1.
Lead P2 and seconded 3 and 1.
Hidden ??, 2014 AltLd
arandall 15 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S Not really a clean onsight as i did have to hang on the rope to get a stubborn nut out but i did do all the moves in sequence, so ill blame remus for the nut. Brilliant climb, haven't had so much exposure in ages and as all the hard bits are traverses they're really scary.
with remus
Not really a clean onsight as i did have to hang on the rope to get a stubborn nut out but i did do all the moves in sequence, so ill blame remus for the nut. Brilliant climb, haven't had so much exposure in ages and as all the hard bits are traverses they're really scary.
with remus
Hidden 15 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
brices 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Charlie, Sash.C
with Charlie, Sash.C
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
mike lawrence? 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd lead pitches 1 and 3, great situations but the climbing was a bit disappointing. Would have fallen just before the peg but glanced down at FatRob and the look of derision on his face gave me the impetus to do one final lunge for the jugs.
lead pitches 1 and 3, great situations but the climbing was a bit disappointing. Would have fallen just before the peg but glanced down at FatRob and the look of derision on his face gave me the impetus to do one final lunge for the jugs.
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Nick Russell 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd dog Awesome route! Shame about the style. I think I made the crux hard for myself (certainly felt like 6a and Andrew said he did it very differently!) and rested on a cam after. Still, wild positions, a great experience and I'd definitely do it again.
Awesome route! Shame about the style. I think I made the crux hard for myself (certainly felt like 6a and Andrew said he did it very differently!) and rested on a cam after. Still, wild positions, a great experience and I'd definitely do it again.
HappyTrundler 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd dog Fully deserves it's status as a monster sea cliff classic adventure, steep, intimidating, good job young Nick was able to bale me out - was hard, could only lead the top pitch, and fell off that, near the top, good gear though!...
Fully deserves it's status as a monster sea cliff classic adventure, steep, intimidating, good job young Nick was able to bale me out - was hard, could only lead the top pitch, and fell off that, near the top, good gear though!...
kingholmesy ??, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1 & P3.
Led P1 & P3.
Dizz 29 Sep, 2012 AltLd Led p2 - brilliant route. 2 annoying slips p1
with Hugh T
Led p2 - brilliant route. 2 annoying slips p1
with Hugh T
Ed Babs 14 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S P1 + 3. There is time to climb moonraker and dreadnought on one low tide. Sensational traverse out over cave to first belay.
with Eddie Young
P1 + 3. There is time to climb moonraker and dreadnought on one low tide. Sensational traverse out over cave to first belay.
with Eddie Young
quiffhanger 25 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Very fun. Difficult tides so abbed down to an obvious corner halfway up the first pitch of moonraker. Worked well - just a little down-climb to get established. Great airy awkward moves, you could get very pumped but with miles of air below no need to place too much gear. Position of second belay is just awesome.
with Matt
Very fun. Difficult tides so abbed down to an obvious corner halfway up the first pitch of moonraker. Worked well - just a little down-climb to get established. Great airy awkward moves, you could get very pumped but with miles of air below no need to place too much gear. Position of second belay is just awesome.
with Matt
JBO 12 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Exposed and amazing climbing on the first pitch, did the route in light rain. I think we were some of the first people on it after the restriction lifted so it was a bit dirty but the climbing made up for it.
Exposed and amazing climbing on the first pitch, did the route in light rain. I think we were some of the first people on it after the restriction lifted so it was a bit dirty but the climbing made up for it.
Dale Turrell 2 Aug, 2012 2nd dog 2 falls.
2 falls.
Bristoldave 2 Aug, 2012 Lead dog Fell off at end of p1. Wasn't climbing well. Amazing route!
Fell off at end of p1. Wasn't climbing well. Amazing route!
Pete Graham 24 Feb, 2012 AltLd
with Ian Burton, Ben Silvestre
with Ian Burton, Ben Silvestre
burto 24 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
with ben silvestre, pete graham
with ben silvestre, pete graham
Hidden ??, 2012 -
robbie Warke 16 Sep, 2011 Lead rpt Great day, brought back memories!
with Jamie Parfrey
Great day, brought back memories!
with Jamie Parfrey
Hidden 8 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
John Mcshea 8 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Fantastic route, with wild positions, a beautiful place to be. No guidebook with us as someone had kindly chalked the way for us a couple of days earlier. A route of distinct aroma.
Fantastic route, with wild positions, a beautiful place to be. No guidebook with us as someone had kindly chalked the way for us a couple of days earlier. A route of distinct aroma.
Justin T 6 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Fantastic full value climbing! Abbed down moonraker to get in as tides not ideal, dodged fulmar vomit on the way down, real adventure climbing throughout - dirty, damp, sandy breaks on the crux pitch, comedy "slot" and awesome thread belay on second, nice though-provoking wall climbing on third. To the person who complained below about it "needing a good clean", do you think perhaps you're missing the point?
with Cusco
Fantastic full value climbing! Abbed down moonraker to get in as tides not ideal, dodged fulmar vomit on the way down, real adventure climbing throughout - dirty, damp, sandy breaks on the crux pitch, comedy "slot" and awesome thread belay on second, nice though-provoking wall climbing on third. To the person who complained below about it "needing a good clean", do you think perhaps you're missing the point?
with Cusco
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
with RB1
with RB1
GeoffG ??, 2011 -
Marcus ??, 2011 -
dan gibson 28 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
with jacquie robinson
philhilo 1 Aug, 2010 AltLd Wow! Wow! Wow! What a route.Drove through pouring rain to reach Brixham in the dry. Soloed round at sea level to hanging belay. Lots of faff sorting ropes. Lead first pitch, steep, hard, steep, hard.1st crux took some working out. 2nd break full of green scunge making holds so slippery. Got peg and slipped off. Annoyed. Misha lead rest of route, still awesome, steep and sustained. We were watched by a harbour seal in the blue water. Topped out in the sunset,best route ever? Home for 2am. Would do it again tomorrow it was that good (might be a little less fragrant!).
with Misha
Wow! Wow! Wow! What a route.Drove through pouring rain to reach Brixham in the dry. Soloed round at sea level to hanging belay. Lots of faff sorting ropes. Lead first pitch, steep, hard, steep, hard.1st crux took some working out. 2nd break full of green scunge making holds so slippery. Got peg and slipped off. Annoyed. Misha lead rest of route, still awesome, steep and sustained. We were watched by a harbour seal in the blue water. Topped out in the sunset,best route ever? Home for 2am. Would do it again tomorrow it was that good (might be a little less fragrant!).
with Misha
Hidden 1 Aug, 2010 2nd dog
Misha 1 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Best multipitch route I've done to date. Wild exposure, sustained climbing and the prospect of dangling in the air if you come off on P1. Phil did a great job of leading P1. I did P2 (hard E1, or at least felt that way straight after seconding P1, had to rest on the belay after backing off the first few moves) and P3 (easy E1). Really pleased to pull this one off as it was raining in St Agnes in the morning and kept raining most of the way to Brixham, in fact it was drizzling as Phil set off but we figured it would be ok due to the overhangs and were proved right as P1 stayed dry and the drizzle had stopped by the time I set off on P2. The final traverse on P1 was very greasy though. Second ascent of the season - a team got in before us but they must have done a crafty traverse into P1 after abbing in. Guano city on the P2 belay but at least it had dried out! Started scrambling at 3pm and topped out at 9.30pm. Awesome.
Best multipitch route I've done to date. Wild exposure, sustained climbing and the prospect of dangling in the air if you come off on P1. Phil did a great job of leading P1. I did P2 (hard E1, or at least felt that way straight after seconding P1, had to rest on the belay after backing off the first few moves) and P3 (easy E1). Really pleased to pull this one off as it was raining in St Agnes in the morning and kept raining most of the way to Brixham, in fact it was drizzling as Phil set off but we figured it would be ok due to the overhangs and were proved right as P1 stayed dry and the drizzle had stopped by the time I set off on P2. The final traverse on P1 was very greasy though. Second ascent of the season - a team got in before us but they must have done a crafty traverse into P1 after abbing in. Guano city on the P2 belay but at least it had dried out! Started scrambling at 3pm and topped out at 9.30pm. Awesome.
Toby Dunn 18 Aug, 2009 AltLd
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Jack_F 13 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Second E3 ever, Sandbagged into an apparent "path" By farn which resulted in the most terrifying and amazing trad experience I have had!
with sam farnsworth
Second E3 ever, Sandbagged into an apparent "path" By farn which resulted in the most terrifying and amazing trad experience I have had!
with sam farnsworth
Chad123 12 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Great route but not worth 3 stars unless it gets a clean - pitch 2 was slimy and muddy, pith 3 loose rock and pitch 4 vegetated. Great moves and positions though, Emily almost got the crux clean. Doing some of Rainbow bridge after was even more fun!
with Emily
Great route but not worth 3 stars unless it gets a clean - pitch 2 was slimy and muddy, pith 3 loose rock and pitch 4 vegetated. Great moves and positions though, Emily almost got the crux clean. Doing some of Rainbow bridge after was even more fun!
with Emily
twright180 ??, 2009 Lead dnf
tuftynick ??, 2008 -
chris j 28 Sep, 2007 2nd rpt
with Fiend
with Fiend
eddy-on-the-rocks 10 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S Ben did the business pitch
with Ben
Ben did the business pitch
with Ben
tonanf ?Jun, 2007 Lead dnf
with james
with james
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
climber sim ??, 2007 -
feilx 13 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Chris Havill
with Chris Havill
JulesV ??, 2006 Lead O/S
with John Helme
with John Helme
Hidden ??, 2006 -
chris j 1 Oct, 2005 2nd Slightly out of my depth!
Slightly out of my depth!
UKB Shark 1 Oct, 2005 Lead If you are reading this Chris - sorry about the cams popping on the belay !
with chris j
If you are reading this Chris - sorry about the cams popping on the belay !
with chris j
Hidden ?Aug, 2001 AltLd
Hidden 12 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??, 1998 AltLd
with Mark Carnall
with Mark Carnall
Derek Ryden ??, 1996 Lead O/S
with Dave the Leg
with Dave the Leg
Hidden ??, 1996 2nd
FATBOYFAT ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Al Brady
with Al Brady
mattnuttall 5 Aug, 1993 AltLd O/S WOW! see picture on UKC. Lead 5c pitch
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
WOW! see picture on UKC. Lead 5c pitch
with Ian Vickers, Alan Holden
Glenn Sutcliffe 29 Aug, 1992 AltLd
with keefe
with keefe
keefe 29 Aug, 1992 AltLd O/S
Nick Biven 9 Sep, 1991 AltLd O/S Outstanding - climbed in two big pitches. I led pitches 1&2 in a oner to hanging belay.
with Nick White
Outstanding - climbed in two big pitches. I led pitches 1&2 in a oner to hanging belay.
with Nick White
Hidden ?Aug, 1991 AltLd
steveb2006 13 Sep, 1990 AltLd dog Failing to traverse in due to heavy seas we abb to the Moonraker stance. Great climb but unfortunately have to grab the peg on the traverse and clip in.
with Simon Mee
Failing to traverse in due to heavy seas we abb to the Moonraker stance. Great climb but unfortunately have to grab the peg on the traverse and clip in.
with Simon Mee
Johnny Baker 10 Oct, 1989 AltLd O/S Epic. Got this route 2nd time after previous attempt with Derek Toulalan and a retreat into the sea from the 2nd belay in a thunderstorm.
with Dave Webster
Epic. Got this route 2nd time after previous attempt with Derek Toulalan and a retreat into the sea from the 2nd belay in a thunderstorm.
with Dave Webster
frank ramsay ?Nov, 1988 Lead
Adrian Gostick ?Nov, 1988 AltLd
Brian Wilderspin 30 Aug, 1987 AltLd O/S
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 27 Oct, 1985 AltLd O/S
charlesmfrench ??, 1984 AltLd O/S L,2,L.
with Ian Milne
L,2,L.
with Ian Milne
stp ??, 1983 -
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Marcus ??, 1980 -
Steve Bell ?May, 1979 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
with Andy Hyslop
clanger ??, 1979 -
clanger ??, 1979 -
pete osullivan ?Sep, 1978 AltLd O/S I led up to the last pitch then Pip said he wanted to have a go. He led all the way to a few feet from the top then fell off. His feet ended up hanging over the lip of the cave belay. It must have been a rather chastening lob of about 60 feet or more, he won the Plymouth Biggles award that year.
with Pip (Chris) George
I led up to the last pitch then Pip said he wanted to have a go. He led all the way to a few feet from the top then fell off. His feet ended up hanging over the lip of the cave belay. It must have been a rather chastening lob of about 60 feet or more, he won the Plymouth Biggles award that year.
with Pip (Chris) George
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High E2
Mid E2
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Votes cast 25
High 6a
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Votes cast 26
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
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