2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great combination of pitches taking the left-hand of two parallel grooves in the centre of the walls - the visually striking first pitch being a good HVS in its own right. Start at the shallow open corner with a large 'starfish' shaped piece of graffiti on its right wall.
1) 5a, 16m. Forcefully climb the steep corner-crack to a ledge. Bolt belay.
2) 5c, 23m. Take the groove above the stance, which can sprout various plants in the summer, to where it steepens. Move up past a peg and then pull right to the arete. Step back left to the short blank corner, small wire, and climb this to a huge jug at its top, and a hard-to-spot ring peg on the right. Climb the short slab above to a terrace and belay. Move down and right to the large fir tree and abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
2 Pitches.
First easy pitch (5a) to a 2 bolt belay, followed by a more technical second pitch into the top corner (5c), good gear near the hard moves.

The first pitch is HVS in its own right.

E Ward Drummond, P Morgan Mar/1967

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, CUMC Ticklist.

DomTe 24/Dec/17 2nd O/S
R0BJ0N 01/Dec/17 Lead O/S
with Dominic Teichmann
Dakam12 30/Oct/17 Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 08/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Ace route, well protected for the gorge. The bridging before the mantle is nice and balances, then the layback is a couple of burly moves before possibly the best 'thank god' jug I've ever encountered.

lukegorman 08/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Lead E2 second pitch. Good!

Euan Todd 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S

I led P2, had seconded P1 previously. Hardish moves to get out to the arete from the peg, but well protected there. The move back left higher up to the ledge felt a little scary, with some unconvincing microwires. In the end, the move was ok but I was very glad to get some gear in the upper groove. Cool layback on the top groove to the biggest jug in all of Avon (maybe an exaggeration).

with Phillipe
Oscar Popels 10/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Nice climbing. There were plenty of crustaceans fossilised and alive. I found myself thinking about the fossils on the second pitch run out bit. The final thin Flake jug felt a bit suspicious so I would take caution with it.

Scraggadoo 12/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

led 2nd pitch - good route

with Ads
Lilypopskeal 01/Jun/17 2nd β

lovely climbing. easy on the second would love to lead someday when my trad skills are up to it.

Hidden 13/May/17 2nd O/S
JGriffiths 10/May/17 2nd O/S

Second pitch only as people were climbing just the first pitch. Gained the route via the start of Fast Grip and did in 1 pitch

brian watson 06/May/17 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, hard moves on RP's !

with Mike Hawkins
bede.west 30/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Cool, crux move ace!

Ed.Laver 30/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

P1 lead P2 2nd

with bede
Hidden 06/Nov/16 2nd O/S
tobydunford 14/Oct/16 AltLd rpt

Got drawn into the good holds on the yellow bubbly wall too, nice climbing, shat myself above the micros and felt the big jug flexing a little bit, did not top out in good style! Great route.

with Harry Martin
edgar_spaten 06/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Tobi
Gingerlings 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

I lead the easy pitch, Neil did all the hard work!

mossrug 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Love love loved this route

with Kate
jamieevans 16/Aug/16 Lead

Couple of number 1 wires is the smallest you need. bomber gear throughout. Top jug flexes a bit :)

David Clover ?/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/16 AltLd
tskelhon 07/Jun/16 AltLd
Sverre Aarseth Tunstad 07/Jun/16 2nd rpt

First pitch only

with Sam de Belder
Sverre Aarseth Tunstad 02/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

First pitch only

with Sam de Belder
Hidden 15/May/16 AltLd rpt
Angrypenguin 15/May/16 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, psyched to get it clean. Tough moves above micros at the end, make sure they are well seated, managed to kick one out on the first go and had to back off to put it back.

gavink9613 06/May/16 Lead β
with Pete Derrett, aby iyer
aiyer ?/May/16 2nd
Pippa 30/Apr/16 Lead O/S
kenneM 28/Apr/16 Lead rpt

First pitch only

Hidden 12/Apr/16 2nd O/S
grp 12/Apr/16 Lead
cdpuk 10/Apr/16 Lead dnf

Got the moves above the peg to the arete, but wasn't confident to move above two shallow micros. Had to bail and ab down for gear, which was a big faff. Micros popped out very easy on the way down.

millionpoundhat 03/Apr/16 -
LJKing 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Paul Clarkson
hutchay 21/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

I took the first pitch, Dave the second

wilkinscl 20/Mar/16 AltLd

Previously practiced aid climbing up the first pitch lead free this time.

with Caleb
Kemics 20/Mar/16 AltLd rpt

Not sure what this counts as: I had seconded before but had gone out up the steep yellow wall to the left. This time I lead 2nd pitch and went the right way at the peg. Really nice sequence at the arete, classic avon style. Buzzing to top out (and not fall on micros) felt really smooth and controlled.

with Corin
Hidden 16/Mar/16 Lead rpt
ian d f 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Mark
markfromstoke 12/Mar/16 2nd
with Ian
EC 24/Feb/16 -
with Liam
Hidden 06/Jan/16 AltLd dog
Kemics 22/Nov/15 AltLd rpt

Went left up the steep wall not right at the peg. Big moves and still definitely 5c but not sure it's the right way. Cool alternative perhaps. (I lead p1)

with Pete
Lil_Pete 22/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Fun route with me having having the interesting second pitch. nearly lost it at one point ..!

with Caleb
Hidden 21/Nov/15 Lead O/S
Pohil 26/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with SP
Hidden 25/Oct/15 2nd rpt
laurashaw 25/Oct/15 Lead RP

First extreme lead! Really psyched, great route with a mixture of a pumpy first pitch and a technical second pitch. Quite bold in the upper section but a rewarding final jug

laurashaw 26/Sep/15 AltLd

Lead the first pitch but dogged, put far too much emphasis on placing gear and getting pumped! Really enjoyed the second pitch, much more technical and pleased to get it clean

with Sam Hooper, Thom Jenkinson
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead rpt
tobydunford 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
Luxulyan 10/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
Hidden 09/Jun/15 Lead G/U
m_andersson 09/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Thom lead both pitches. Really good climb but quite scary at parts.

DoMakeSayThink 09/Jun/15 2nd RP

Jenks led both pitches. I attempted the first pitch but gave up after a few tries and a rope burn - will have to get back on it some point as feels doable.

cwildblood 21/May/15 Lead O/S
Dino Dave 12/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hugobristol 12/May/15 Lead O/S

Followed p1, led p2. Climbing required balance but was never too strenuous. Small wires protect it well.

with Dave
Katsmiff 10/May/15 AltLd O/S

I lead the 1st pitch HVS level which was very pleasant climbing. Martin lead the 2nd pitch which was a tad bold in places but okay.

Martin Bagshaw 10/May/15 Lead O/S
frkm2000 01/May/15 Lead O/S
Misha 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

In one, nicely varied pitch. Getting off the ground is nails at 5a! Take a good selection of micros, you'll need them!

with Felix
felixizzy 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with misha
Theeni 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

I led the first pitch; Mike the second

with Mike Kennedy
kenneM 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Great route - enough gear to make it safe enough but still hard and at the upper end of E2 by my reckoning.

with Henry Crosby
georgeevans88 23/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Proper layback at the top which Jamie managed to mostly reach past! An intricate and great top pitch.

with Jamie
zcsharp 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Seconded the first pitch before. Very balancy climbing with pretty good protection. The jug at the top felt a bit loose to me when i grabbed it.

Ranaz ?/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
LucasHarazin 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led L2

jackc 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
tskelhon 21/Jun/14 2nd
with chris davis
skippington 08/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Followed 1st pitch, led 2nd. Classic Avon Gorge weirdness, with added brambles.

Hidden 05/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
alastairbegley 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S

first solid-at-the-grade E2, certainly felt quite exciting above micro wires!

richsmithinbristol 26/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Jim Brooke 26/Apr/14 AltLd rpt

Quick ascent between showers. Lead 1st pitch. Great 2nd pitch

with Rich
Matt Amos 14/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. It definitely deserves 2 or three stars I'd say. The top pitch is a good solid 5c

with Barney Adams
Ollie B 16/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

P2. Tricky and a little balancy and awkward. Good.

with O.Lancett
Mark Warnett 15/Sep/13 AltLd

1st pitch is an enjoyable HVS i didn't notice much polish at all. 2nd pitch starts very easily until technical moves take you a long way above your gear to a ledge and a good small wire placement which protects the crux which i found hard and Chris found easy

evhall 22/Jun/13 AltLd O/S


with goat
David Maddison 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Proper sting in the tail above shallow micros! Tough for the grade.

with Richard
Kemics 04/May/13 AltLd β

I led first pitch (rpt). Seconded but with lots of beta from Neil. Enjoyable but felt a little stiffer than other E2s in the neighbourhood.

with Neil
monsteratt 03/May/13 AltLd O/S

Great route, great rock, good birthday celebration. I led p1 Nick did p2.

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 03/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/May/13 2nd rpt
Alex Winter 01/May/13 Lead O/S

Yarded past the crux, as usual. Cool, balancy climbing lower down. Think I fiddled in enough small gear to make it pretty safe.

with Will A
Latecomer 20/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Failed at the crux. boo.

aylabarratt17 19/Apr/13 Lead dog
with Clive
Cheese Monkey 20/Mar/13 2nd β


with Neil
danJBA 20/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Jake Thompsett
Hidden 19/Feb/13 2nd rpt
paultaylor 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2 would of been cool to do it in a oner'

with Andy B
andygb 13/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch. Paul led 2nd pitch

with Paul Taylor
tomwheeler 09/Dec/12 AltLd

I led P1, great fun. Ben led P2. Incredible corner climbing.

bencoope 09/Dec/12 AltLd
Stanners 15/Nov/12 AltLd O/S

Second pitch. Classic route and reasonably protected. 2 stars!

pheotleyr 20/Oct/12 2nd β
with Owen
Owen W-G 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. All a bit sketchy above the peg, insecure climbing on non positive holds with suspect rp pro, never too hard but mentally taxing.

Aaron Lines 07/Oct/12 Lead
crimpylewis 29/Sep/12 2nd rpt

hvs only 1st pitch

tommytuffa 04/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

with ollie b
Hidden 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Dean Russell 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
riddle 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

P1 for me, glory pitch for Adam

adam 24 18/Aug/12 AltLd
james.slater 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Awkward first pitch, and only one good section on second, but really hard at the top, where the hell are those jugs!!! I wouldnt argue if it was graded E3...

Hidden 09/Jul/12 2nd
Dave 88 01/Jun/12 AltLd dnf

Pete lead first pitch, I got up to the peg on the second pitch but couldn't for the life of me work out how to get to the arete. Down-climbed to the belay so Pete could have a crack. He got a few moves higher than me, then when he started pulling out the sky hooks and pocket etriers, I knew I wouldn't be following him!

with Salisbury Pete
pedropierre ?/May/12 Lead O/S

First pitch was I thought harder than HVS now it's all polished up. Second pitch surprisingly overgrown/dirty - excellent climping - not sure you'd like it if you were under 6'

with Chris Brockbnk
Mr Powly 20/Apr/12 Lead O/S
j miller 25/Mar/12 -
Dean177 02/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Will Twigger
Hidden 11/Feb/12 2nd dog
jon_ridley 11/Feb/12 AltLd dog

Clean lead P1, dogged once on second P2. tried to grab a hold that wasn't really there. fantastic climbing all the way through

Nick Russell 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Linked the pitches - not too much rope drag if your first runner on P2 is quite high. First pitch very polished, but enjoyable. To reiterate the climber's club guide, make sure you have some small wires for P2! (a couple of DMM #1 or BD #4 will do - no need for anything too tiny)

with Martin
Kemics 11/Dec/11 Lead O/S

First pitch only. Great climbing and really suits my style so felt soft for HVS. Stoked for the second pitch but no micro wires.

with Dave
James_86 10/Dec/11 AltLd dog
with Steve, Tom
thomasadixon 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Had already done the first pitch (for last slip). Damn good route this!

Dave89 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

First pitch only. Lovely

with Chris k
rg1976 23/Oct/11 TR dnf

First pitch only. Fell twice.

with squicky
halfwaythere 07/Oct/11 2nd dnf

pitch 0ne only

Gary S 02/Oct/11 TR β

Climbed first pitch only

with Tom Moat
Hidden 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
CRiddiford 03/Sep/11 2nd
with Mark, Jonny
nick hawkins 03/Sep/11 TR
halfwaythere 03/Sep/11 Lead RP

Led first pitch, it hurt my fingers a lot, that first bit!

mark20 03/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Stanley 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

(dont know what to call this as I fell on the first pitch, but thats another route, came down, counted that as 1 route, then did the ffoeg link and onsigted that... confused? I am.)

leigh 03/Jul/11 2nd dog

Slipped on polished 1st pitch then did this again cleanly. However needed a very tight rope at the top of second pitch!

with Ed
Tom Brierley Gore 16/Jun/11 Lead O/S

It looked ok from the ground :D First pitch is very nice... although horrifically polished. Second pitch was grippy but a bit scary on crux (tiny protection). Needs wires really but managed to use a 0 nut and could just about tap one in a tiny crack.

karenhh 16/Jun/11 2nd
Tom Heslam 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Jenkin, Rosea
Dan Jenkin 15/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Rosea Day, Tom Heslam
Hidden 10/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/11 -
Ed Babs 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S


Debs 01/May/11 2nd
with Karl
UnkArl 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch only (HVS 5a) setup top-rope at bolt belay for others to climb, then re-climbed (on top-rope) and abseiled off from bolts. Start is VERY polished, but gets better higher up.

with Andrew, Debbie
lukehodson 18/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch. Classic Avon!

Justin T 26/Mar/11 AltLd O/S


with Cherry
AlexRenshaw 06/Mar/11 Lead
stvredmond 11/Dec/10 Lead

only did first pitch, superb finger jams

with kelwyn
Shaky Dog 11/Dec/10 2nd dog

Steve lead (we did first pitch only) then hauled me up.

Hidden 28/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 01/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 22/Jul/10 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
dan ely 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S

p1 only. hvs 5a ***! crux at the star cause of terrable polish but gets better

with jesse
Hidden 22/Jun/10 Lead dnf
Cornish Cream 10/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Dunx 29/May/10 Lead O/S
with Joe M
lizzie789 15/May/10 2nd O/S

first pitch only

RagingPuffin 15/May/10 Lead rpt

only the first pitch

sbc 17/Apr/10 2nd
with Dunx
Dunx 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Shell
RagingPuffin 13/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Did the first (HVS) pitch, Loz led second.

with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 12/Apr/10 AltLd dog

slipped off at the peg, poor bridging technique. then did it properly...silly boy. far too lackadaiscal on the lead!

with Al
Hidden 21/Feb/10 Lead O/S
scorpia97 13/Feb/10 2nd
with Caspian
Hidden 13/Feb/10 Lead
Hidden 16/Dec/09 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/Dec/09 Lead O/S

Led first pitch only, good hard 5a climbing.

with Alex Tomczynski, Dave Tait
Ed morris 31/Oct/09 Lead O/S

led first pitch at about VS 5a. nice route and sunk 20 odd runners into it.

with Dickon
pembrokeshirecaver 31/Oct/09 2nd β

only did first pitch making it around HVS

mr.alex 25/Oct/09 Lead O/S

On-sighted the first pitch, which I understand goes at HVS

Dunx 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Just 1st pitch

with Joe M
joeym 13/Sep/09 AltLd
Dunx 12/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with Ru
Marti999 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 08/Jun/09 2nd dog

Slipped off the last move to the jug! :-(

with Marti
billb ?/May/09 AltLd
richsmithinbristol ?/May/09 AltLd
Chris Sansum 25/Apr/09 2nd dnf

We decided to do pitch 1 after noticing there was a mallion at the top of it and the tech grade was OK. Very nice route! P2 was very tempting. Luckily we resisted as there was a downpour soon after we abbed off.

with Gary Lewin
Wrighty87 08/Apr/09 Lead dnf

Climbed the first pitch thinking it was morpheous. very nice start to it but not an E2 level climb on first pitch. Aim to go back with some micro wires and finish the job soon.

jacobjlloyd 01/Apr/09 Lead dnf

got lost.... no guidebook.

with Dougie
jacobjlloyd 01/Apr/09 TR rpt
with Dougie
dswansonlow 01/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/09 2nd
scorpia97 22/Feb/09 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches, very nice climbing.

with Caspian
Dr Caterpillar 11/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

led p1

with Howard
beardy mike ??/2009 Lead O/S
jh5638 22/Nov/08 Lead O/S

1st pitch only HVS 5A

Hidden 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Lev 15/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd Pitch

Paz 01/Aug/08 2nd
with heallan
Hidden 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/08 Lead O/S
tom.e 25/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 30/May/08 Lead O/S
Paz 30/May/08 2nd rpt

Lead the starting HVS corner.

with WG
dan gibson 19/May/08 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 12/May/08 Lead O/S
chris sm 22/Mar/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
Paz 01/Feb/08 2nd rpt
with heallan
Hidden ??/2008 Lead rpt
Bristoldave 17/Nov/07 Lead O/S

First E2 onsight

with douglas
Paz 19/Oct/07 Lead rpt
with TS2
CarolineH 19/Sep/07 2nd

1st pitch only.

with Mark
tonanf 12/Jul/07 2nd O/S

excellent lead by j

with james c
phsharpy 06/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Pete Phillips
Circus 26/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Gavin Cytlau
Paz 10/Mar/07 AltLd rpt
with CC
richiebongo ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Tanya Scully
Hidden 12/Dec/06 Lead rpt
Tamlyn 06/May/06 Lead rpt

repeated first pitch to remove partner's gear as did not finish. Smooth and quick.

Tamlyn 27/Apr/06 Lead dnf

Did 1st pitch clean (5a), then brought up seconds and abbed off bolts for belay

tonanf ??/2006 AltLd
Hidden ??/2006 -
Richard Hall ??/2006 2nd

Seconded the first pitch then abbed off.

with Paul Mac
Bux ?/Jun/05 Lead rpt

1st pitch only.

with Rupert Bassadone
Hidden 29/Apr/05 Lead O/S
KRB 31/Oct/04 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
simon kimber ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Paz ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S

Met RL at the crag that day in a group of 3 and asked him if he fancied a route. Had lead P1 before 01/2003

with RL
Digger 30/Mar/03 2nd dog
with James Latham
Hidden ?/Feb/03 Lead
DavidR 28/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
with Jemma Wadham
Jim Brooke 26/Apr/02 2nd rpt
with James Latham
pezzerrr ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
AndySL 03/Mar/02 Lead rpt
with Mark
Hidden 09/Sep/01 AltLd O/S
John Southworth 31/Jul/01 Lead RP
Billg 14/Feb/01 Lead O/S
with Megan Beaumont
Hidden ??/2001 Lead dog
gimmer ??/2001 -
Hidden 24/Apr/00 Lead rpt
Gudge ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with BUMC
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Mickdenali ??/2000 AltLd dog
with Bob Macleod
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Jim Brooke 21/Nov/99 Lead β
Hidden 04/Apr/99 2nd rpt
richsmithinbristol 04/Oct/98 Lead
clark alston ?/Jul/98 AltLd O/S
with Steven Martin
Jim Brooke 05/Feb/97 2nd β
with Adrian Fletcher
duncan 30/Mar/96 2nd
with Dan Donovan
chris sm 28/Feb/96 Lead rpt
with Andy Gill
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
GAtkins 22/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with Neil
chris sm 09/Jun/94 2nd β
with Andy Gill
chris sm 12/Feb/94 Lead dnf

P1 Only (HVS) First HVS

with Martin Sime
Roget 31/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1991 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 -
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 03/Nov/85 AltLd
John Marsland 01/Sep/85 Lead
with Dave Mould
duncan ?/Sep/84 Solo rpt
andy gittins ??/1983 -
duncan ?/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1982 Lead O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Unsure
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 45
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 51
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set