The steep crack in the bulges just left of the large roofs. Climb an easy crack to a break, move left to a position below the bulging crack. Climb the strenuous crack to a rest just left of the roofs. Make a hard move to enter a hanging corner on the right and finish at a tree above.


Ticklists: Ultimate E2 ticklist.

Jack_F 09/Sep Lead O/S
with Sophie
FerClimbs 05/Aug 2nd β

Pumpy, pumpy. I was happy to have a rest before the last movement.

chrisscutt 02/Aug 2nd β
with afrosam
afrosam 02/Aug Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jul 2nd rpt
afrosam 05/Jul Lead O/S
with RB1
rafaelfordgonzalez 08/Jun 2nd dog
tommccluskey 08/Jun Lead O/S

Well good!

with Katka, rafaelfordgonzalez
Euan Todd 18/May Lead G/U

One fall just above the thread, managed to weld in my red offset :'(. Crag swag if anyone gets it out! Lowered off, pulled the ropes and a quick rest. Taps aff for power, and got it next go. Pumpy, and tricky to read on the onsight! Quality climbing though, epitomises limestone trad. E2 5c seems bang on.

with Rob, Michelle
JGriffiths 17/May TR dog
badgerjockey 17/May TR

Good god. Went through the bulges direct for the E4 6a line. Hard reachy lunges with little gear. Then that final roof! Fuck leading that!

Tala A 20/Apr 2nd O/S

Found this quite strenuous. Brilliant climb.

with Johnny Dawes
RagingPuffin 08/Jan Lead β
with Jake
jake lee 05/Dec/17 Lead O/S

Done With out the thread as it was blocked in with old tat!!

with Paz
Paz 05/Dec/17 2nd rpt
hankyc 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S
J_Spooner ?/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Ben Smart, Will Birkett
Hidden 28/Apr/17 2nd
brian watson 08/Apr/17 Lead β
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 04/Feb/17 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 04/Feb/17 2nd RP
with Sophie Armshaw, WillAndrew
julesmckim 03/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, with sustained interest all the way. Good holds through the first bulging section makes for thrilling, head-spinning climbing. Found the top roof desperate - laybacking with feet on invisible holds under the roof

with GeoMike
Hidden 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/16 Lead RP
Hidden 30/Apr/16 2nd β
James Smith 25/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with geoff
mikedevcole 23/Apr/16 2nd dog

Good lead from Stu. Messed up feet going through final bulge.

Stuart William 23/Apr/16 Lead β

So so good. Had to fight hard for it but well worth the battle. Felt very pumpy through the crux. Top problem was brilliant. Flash as couldn't help but see some of the holds after abbing off the top of Smaug.

Hidden 12/Apr/16 2nd dog
Hugobristol 12/Apr/16 Lead dog

Took a bad fall early when a foot slipped and the rope caught behind my leg... went for ground up and fell off at the top.

pearson9596 20/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Mel, onlyfoddington
onlyfoddington 20/Mar/16 2nd dog

Maybe should have done better through the meaty middle, but the end is hard.

with Mel, pearson9596
RichyBOYY 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S

This route is awesome - felt pretty solid on it, nicely spicy and cool moves - its no pushover

AshBarnes 31/Oct/15 2nd dog
Billg 03/Oct/15 Lead rpt
with Ollie B, Bob Brewer
Ollie B 03/Oct/15 Lead β

Bill led, pulled ropes and led on his gear.

with B.Gregory, B.Brewer
smartydh9 05/Jun/15 Lead O/S
emdawes 16/May/15 2nd
James Marshall 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Really liked this one - first time i've had 'go for it' on a trad route. Hard move but well protected.

with sash
tobydunford 01/May/15 Lead rpt
with Harry Martin
dbrooks 22/Mar/15 Lead dog

bit disappointed not to get this, very nice climbing

with Gareth
London Luke 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Nathan Chrismas 04/Oct/14 TR dog
Justin T 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 21/Sep/14 2nd dog
with zcsharp
zcsharp 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Pumpy, but really good gear, if you can place it. The boulder problem at the top is pretty stiff but not too bad when you just commit to it.

Quarryboy 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Had a strange feeling of nauseating nervousness, before setting off, probably because this route has been hyped up quite a bit in my mind over the years as being a bit of a test piece at E2, felt pretty easy once I just started climbing though.

with David Bradbrook
shoulders 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with pete lewis
tobydunford 11/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Harry Martin
ian d f 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Pete H
tskelhon 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S
clmacdonald 17/Jul/14 2nd
Dan0Me 04/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Geoff P
davidclare 26/May/14 2nd O/S
with Jonny Forster, jon_ridley
jon_ridley 26/May/14 Lead dog

One fall at crux, too much hesitation

yan hawkins 21/May/14 2nd β
with Donald 'Big Boy' Birchall
Hidden 11/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/14 2nd dog
danmullett 05/May/14 Lead O/S
mes32 04/May/14 2nd O/S
with Wilki
Cheese Monkey 24/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Alex Winter 24/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant route. Great jug yarding up to the roof, and then a puzzling couple of moves to the top. Stayed dry in the rain.

with Ben Darby
Bristoldave 15/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Derek
Hidden 13/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Stanners 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S

WOW, what a climb! Great pumpy sequences in the lower half with great gear and a hard finish. Top requires careful execution and can't be rushed into! maybe 3*?

with Kyle87
Kyle87 11/Mar/14 2nd dog

pretty stiff, going to have a bash at the lead though

richardashe 13/Jul/13 2nd dog

Stupidly missed a nice hold low down and popped off!

ASchwirtz 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
tobydunford 13/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Harry Martin
skippington 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Tremendous route.

Jim Tan 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Gibbo 05/Jun/13 2nd
with Sash Coombes
Dean Russell 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 06/May/13 Lead O/S

The sequence through the lower bulges is awesome and perfectly protected. I wasn't quite expecting the steep and very committing exit, but took my time working it out and it went fine. No pushover at the grade.

with Emily
JonnyFawell 01/May/13 TR O/S

First outdoors climb.

Tomar 02/Dec/12 Lead β

On Simon's gear. Excellent

with brices
brices 02/Dec/12 Lead O/S

scared onsight found it intimidating at the top, good though

with Tomar
KitRabbette 30/Sep/12 2nd
AlexRenshaw 29/Sep/12 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
ladymuck 07/Sep/12 TR dnf
with Alastair Heggie
Hidden 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S
arandall 30/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with remus
pheotleyr 15/Aug/12 2nd dog
with Tomar
richiebongo 24/May/12 Lead O/S

didn't do the top bit.

with Jon Didymus
Steve Hillier 22/May/12 TR RP
with ben greatorex
bpmclimb 13/May/12 Lead RP

Finally - a clean lead!

Huntlyfiddler 13/May/12 2nd
bpmclimb 12/May/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 30/Apr/12 Lead dnf

Faffed around too long low on the route and took a rest. Feeling distinctly off form today, so decided to sack it rather than struggle up for yet another dogged ascent.

with Muttly
bpmclimb 30/Apr/12 2nd rpt

Went smoothly enough seconding. Will definitely put it to bed next time!

with Muttly
Muttly 30/Apr/12 Lead dog

Brilliant, Brilliant, Brilliant. I would never have thought I could persevere and climb until the nice rest without stopping. I kept trying and back climbing at the crux, I eventually went for it and shouted take as I came off so sort of my first trad fall. Onsighting this was out of my reach (and yet so close) however I was really pleased to have climbed this.

bpmclimb 31/Mar/12 TR rpt

Didn't seem hard this time.

with Shunt
Ali D 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with HarryB
HarryB 14/Mar/12 2nd
with Al
Cornish Cream 04/Dec/11 2nd
with grp
grp 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S
cem 18/Nov/11 TR
cbeard 15/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Kirill 18/Sep/11 TR dnf
Hidden 18/Sep/11 TR dnf
Hidden 21/Aug/11 2nd
jas128 28/May/11 TR dog
Hidden 28/May/11 TR
Hidden 20/May/11 Lead O/S
dale1968 20/May/11 2nd dog
Laurence Everitt 17/Apr/11 Lead RP

Rested on this pumpy buggar 2 years ago seconding james, got it today, just about

with Takacs, JayK
JPGR 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Ross Davidson 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

very pumpy

andy dunn 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S

cool route - nice and sustained - good gear whenever you want it.

with J
bpmclimb 05/Jun/10 2nd dog
bpmclimb 26/Apr/10 Lead dog

Hand slipped out of the layaway slot up in the final corner, and cam pulled out, too. Off I came and fell on the previous runner. After all that hard work! Now I'll have to do it all again.

Huntlyfiddler 26/Apr/10 2nd
gnc760 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Rose Williams
T ny ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Dan_Carroll 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S

very nice and reasonable for the grade. really fun, slightly insecure move over the roof at the top.

with Eric Herring
ericinbristol ?/Aug/09 2nd β
with Dan
Hidden 15/Jul/09 TR
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead dog
Hidden 28/Jun/09 Lead RP
riddle 21/Jun/09 Lead dnf

failed at the top, felt harder than 5c.

with miku979
lizannday ?/Jun/09 2nd
with Alisdair Cairns
JimR 02/May/09 -
BeccaSnowden 14/Apr/09 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Geoff
CarolineH 27/Sep/08 2nd dog
Bristoldave 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Lev 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 01/Sep/07 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Aug/07 2nd
pezzerrr 13/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Jason Gotel ?/Jul/06 TR

Did not complete climb

with Pippa Lansdown
craig h 05/Jun/06 TR O/S
with Shunted
Paul Robertson 25/May/06 Lead rpt
with Ben Friedland
Hidden 05/Mar/06 2nd dog
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead
tom.e ??/2005 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/04 Lead
goi.ashmore 14/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Duncan Powell
Mark Davies PK ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Laura
just one more 05/Aug/03 Lead
with tim b
rayles 06/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Katie
guy xavier percival 18/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with rob
Nigel Coe 20/Jul/02 2nd
Paz ??/2001 Lead O/S
with BUMC
Hidden ??/2001 -
Billg 15/Oct/00 Lead
with Harry
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
KRB 12/Nov/99 Lead O/S
with Dave Pickford
John Southworth ?/Mar/99 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
crimpaway ??/1999 Lead
T ny ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1998 -
migs493 20/Apr/97 2nd β
with Steve Blake
phardman 14/Oct/95 Lead

Hard moves over roof at top

charlesmfrench 27/Sep/94 2nd O/S
with Cliff
WRMusall 18/Mar/94 2nd
with Rick Stanley
Didymus 26/Sep/93 2nd dog
with Martin
MoWalker3 19/Sep/93 TR
with Joe
Neil McA 24/Jul/93 Lead O/S
with Beak 2
Hidden 12/Apr/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/92 Lead O/S
AndySL ??/1992 TR β
with Mark
Hidden 21/Sep/91 Lead
mattnuttall 23/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with Matthieu Mounier
Hidden 29/Apr/90 2nd O/S
AndyB123 ??/1989 2nd O/S
with Andy E
Hidden 13/Jul/86 Lead O/S
deepstar 28/May/81 2nd
with Dave Long.
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