Rockfax Description
A superb way to continue your adventure.
1) 15m. Scramble up and right towards the quartzy pinnacle above the descent gully. Move right just below the top of the pinnacle onto heather, then continue diagonally right to a short groove and a ledge. Continue zigzagging rightwards with care to reach a tree and flake belay. Beware of people below.
2) 4b, 25m. Move right and up to a large flake. Climb the rightward-trending slab to gain a hand traverse which leads to the Slow Ledge. From the right-hand side of the ledge, climb a groove, then hand traverse right to gain a heathery stance.
3) 4b, 25m. Climb directly up into an unappealing groove and move left round a rib into another groove. Weave upwards on easier ground to a ledge.
4) 25m. Scramble off and belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Published grade is VS,4c not S,4a

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Snowdonia in Chains.

matt davies 07/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Ross
Hidden 07/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
ducle 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Nick Shelley, Eu Lee Seow
Hidden 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
andrewmc 09/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Moving together; I led pitches 1 and 2; Zack led 3 and 4. I think instead of doing a traverse on the first pitch on the ledge (which had just disappeared below vegetation) I did a traverse a bit higher. Still proper vegetation-bashing on loose and dubious rock until you get to the Slow Ledge, which is awesome :)

Hidden 09/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
DanChad 29/May/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4.

Le Chevalier Mal Fet 29/May/16 AltLd

With sacks. After Direct route. Led P1 +3. Found several placements on P1, and it was really just a walk anyway, so a lot easier and less gripping than I was expecting from previous "death route" comments. Pleasant walk afterwards to do Main Wall and Gambit Climb.

keitht 29/May/16 AltLd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
John Bunney ??/2016 -
Rory Shaw ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
robblowen 17/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

P1 - Lead, P2 - second, P3 - Lead, P4 - Solo.

with Munch
munch88 17/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Lead p1 2nd p2 solo p3

with rob
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead
tomowen13 29/Sep/15 AltLd
BPaske 29/Sep/15 AltLd
GermanAlex 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Lead the death trap that is the first "pitch" (scramble over vegetated ground) and the considerably more enjoyable 2nd pitch together. Great positions on those traverses! Route finding can be a bit difficult. Michael lead 3+4 together. Oddly I'd give VS for the overall seriousness and first "pitch", the rock pitches in themselves would be more like HS.

with Michael
Michael Morrell 27/Sep/15 AltLd

Absolute death trap of a traverse, if you had a tumble you would be buggered, Alex did it with a bave lead and I lead the easy pitch.

with Alex
Hidden 16/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
JimboWizbo 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

The 2nd pitch makes the first pitch almost worthwhile. Lead odd pitches. Last pitch in the rain was rough. Started around half 9 finished by 11. Then on to Main Wall

robgixer 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Eagertom 16/Apr/15 Lead O/S

In spite of the slight greenery this was much nicer than The Cracks. The first pitch is sketchy as hell - rope it up! And route finding is a little confusing from the first belay - go up and right in spite of the ab tat. All in all felt more comfortable on the less polished rock here.

with Thom Jenkinson
67hours 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Led the middle hand-traverse pitch. Super pitch after the grassy rubbish of the approach traverse!

with Al Docherz, Clay
Clay C 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Al, George
zcsharp 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
abtibbs 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Jamie Roberts
Hidden 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 AltLd
Graeme Hammond 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Soloed most of the easily first scrambling pitch then led the rest. Traverse very good but lacks a good line to the top.

with Andy Drinkall
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Rob84 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Pidg
Steveb27 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Coel Hellier 21/Jun/14 AltLd
with Steve B
clairemathews 14/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
jonhowson 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Mark, Maia
johnself1603 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
MYox 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Jon, Maia
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Lucylou19 30/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
stevelismore 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led the hand traverse pitch-very exposed!

with John PCC
john max 14/Sep/13 AltLd
with Julian Sorrell
john_ni 14/Sep/13 AltLd

Led pitch 1, end of 2 from Slow Ledge & 3. John Maxfield & Julian following as pair.

Kirill 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3.

with Stevo
CurlyStevo ?/Aug/13 AltLd

lead Pitch 2, Part of a bigger enchainment taking Western Slabs, Slow Ledge Climb, Main Wall,Gambit Climb and Crib Coch. Started at 7:30 back down to the car 19:15. A very good day :)

jwpil 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Ben
sebbo 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Nice exposure and enjoyable continuation from the Nose climbs.

with Grant Brown
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd
cbeard 20/Jul/13 AltLd rpt

Moved together, lead final pitches

greenclimb 14/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Gill
sheelba 13/Jul/13 AltLd

Ended up on this accidentally from the top of black Spring! Great climb

squicky 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great little climb of yesteryear. Pp 2,4. P2 never hard, never desperate but sustained and makes you think.

with Megan
rob 528 10/Jul/13 AltLd
Josiemc 04/Jul/13 AltLd

Awesome Climb!

alex_arthur ?/Jul/13 -

Linkup with superdirect

with Matthew Osborne
lithos 02/Jun/13 AltLd
greenclimb 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead
Josiemc ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
LozM 19/May/13 AltLd

following on from western slabs. P2 and 4

with Mark J
jshields 20/Apr/13 AltLd

After the Direct route, then on to The Gambit.

with Andy Neath, Ed James
georgedunton 02/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Ryan Lang
Hidden 02/Mar/13 AltLd
Manchi 11/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3.

with tim_mcd
tim_mcd 11/Aug/12 AltLd
with Manchi
cbeard 10/Aug/12 Lead O/S

VS in my guidebook... I'd agree with HS. Great hand traverse.

Katherine Ross 10/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Had a proper 'Vertical Limit' style flail on the hand traverse (but somehow managed to save it)! The grassy, muddy, heathery bits at the start were thoroughly unfun.

Hidden 09/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Zoomer 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Honking 1st pitch, didn't read the book and took the quartz pinnacle direct and right-ish at the top. Excellent 2nd pitch, defo VS for the position and the final move onto the belay is pushing 4c.

Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Johnywilks 22/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Bevan
Hidden ??/2012 -
grp 03/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Solo
Hidden 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S
tedburt 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Aaron Burdett
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
beci tointen ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with my uncle carl
KevB 26/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with Chris W
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/10 2nd O/S
stuart34 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
adam06 12/Jun/10 AltLd

defo take half ropes or extend gear allot. we got major rope drag on a single

with marek
tompilgrem 04/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Linked with Western Slabs and carried boots.Bit of a contrast to the routes on the nose, traversing across heather hoping it doesnt give way. Great hand traverse on P2, what a position.

with Dad
bobpilgrem 04/Jun/10 Lead O/S

P1.Heathery scramble- fine in dry.P2Great rising traverse- with amazing hand traverse-easy but very exposed.P3 Easy- but very run out. Overall agree that needs an competent party- and that double ropes are essential.

with Bob/Tom
Hidden 24/May/10 AltLd
Nigel Coe 23/May/10 AltLd

Via Dolerite Dump

dan ely 20/May/10 AltLd O/S

led p2. its all bout that one really. amazing exposed with easy moves leadind to a scary rockover( i think 4c)leading to a alsome rest and belay. vs in guide books which i agree

with jon
MarekM ??/2010 AltLd
MarekM ??/2010 AltLd
Matt Bennett 14/Sep/09 Lead O/S

With big pack + stuff, great fun!

Hidden 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/09 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
beardy mike 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S

After a dismal and quite dangerous first pitch, the rock becomes solid and the climbing whilst straight forwards outs you in E1 positions! Absolutely mind blowing exposure and moves!

SC 18/Jun/09 2nd O/S

Linked up from the cracks. Pitch 1 is pretty nasty & very serious. Pitch 2 & three are excellent. Great climbing in amazing positions.

mikelaing ?/Jun/09 AltLd
with Ian Whitehead
Rob84 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with Chris James
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/09 2nd
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 AltLd
Hidden 11/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Jun/08 -
victim of mathematics 31/May/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 (the heathery traverse :o ) and 3. An excellent route once you get to it.

with Mark (Refugee)
Hidden 31/May/08 AltLd O/S
TimPerkin 23/May/08 Lead O/S
with Richard Harris
jimbobimbo ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Hidden 21/Apr/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/06 AltLd
Ratfeeder 17/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Phil
TobyA 12/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 -
marcoleptic ??/2000 AltLd
with Banjo
Ian Archer 28/Jun/98 AltLd O/S
with Paul Rogers
smudge 27/May/97 Lead O/S
with Frank
Nick Biven ??/1986 -
Hidden ??/1983 Lead
Bob M ?/Jul/82 -
Nigel Bond 29/May/82 AltLd
with Jeff
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Rob Davies 05/Apr/78 AltLd
with Simon Wheeler (CUMC)
Falko ??/1978 Solo

In the rain, solo and in Super RDs

with Al W.
Falko 26/Jun/77 AltLd O/S

In the rain, in Super RDs and with big sacs. Part of a 'round trip' started because of poor morning weather in the Pass. Ended up doing Dolerite Dump, Slow Ledge, Reade's Route, Snowdon summit, Spiral Stairs, Dives, and Sabre Cut.

with Al W.
mikej 25/Jun/76 Lead
with Brian Norris
climbing_goose ??/1976 AltLd O/S

with dave naul - for some reason we didn't belay on the slow ledge

with dave naul
granitbahn ??/1975 AltLd
Tom V ??/1973 -
Martin Bennett 14/May/72 -
with RA
auldscotal ??/1968 AltLd O/S

Did it in big boots, linking climbs to the top of the mountain. Great wee climb.

with ?
uphillnow ?/Jul/67 Lead

With a GMC member

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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 34
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set