Climb cracks to a resting place at 4m where they end. Swing right to a hanging flake and motor up this to jugs and ledges. finish over a small overhang.

Paz 05/Dec/17 Lead dog


with JL
hankyc 02/Sep/17 2nd O/S
Euan Todd 29/Aug/17 Lead G/U

Had previously fallen off this trying to find convincing gear behind the flake. No such worries today, managed to find two acceptable wires and just went up. Not too bad if you don't hang around. Hard E1 5b I reckon.

with Phillipe
Euan Todd 23/May/17 Lead dnf

Fiddling in gear at the layback was tricky, and didn't trust any of it much. One wire may have been good in hindsight. Lowered off to save for the G/U. As Alex forgot to get one of my cams when he was abbing for gear, I led the lower section again by headtorch to reach the other end of the ab rope, and fetch the gear. Finding the feet was difficult! Next time hopefully!

with Alex Tomczynski
Longsufferingropeholder 21/May/17 Lead O/S
with C May
C May 21/May/17 2nd O/S
with Tim
yan hawkins 22/Apr/17 Lead β
with ron
afrosam 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S
joeurwin 14/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with afrosam
brian watson 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 08/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Dean Russell 15/Oct/16 Lead O/S
leland stamper 12/Oct/16 2nd

Impressive lead by Lachlan. Not impressive second from me. Good holds all the way. Fight the pump!

with BU6330
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/16 2nd rpt
TomJ 06/Aug/16 2nd
with derico
derico 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Tom Jordan
julesmckim 03/Aug/16 2nd O/S

Good lead from Mickie. Gear a little dodgy in the flake and hard to place. Although not leading, it felt hard for E1 to me

WillAndrew 17/Jul/16 Lead β
with Matt H
Hidden 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
ali.scott 17/Apr/16 Lead G/U

Faffed about for ages arranging gear in the flake - totally pumped out and fell off just above it! Worth making sure the nut is good, though - I'm not wholly convinced the gear on the left would prevent a groundfall from where I came off. Pulled the ropes and it went fine.

mattharper 17/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/16 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/16 2nd dog
cdpuk 09/Apr/16 Lead dog

Cold. Wet. Gear after moving right was fiddly - placed what looked like a rubbish wire and had to rest to find something else. Should be fine next time!

Ashley King 13/Mar/16 2nd

Really enjoyed trying a slightly harder route, beginning was quite scary again with little gear or holds, coming out right was very bold but once hands were on the right flake there was good holds over it. Got easier from here, with one interesting move over the roof, but with good holds. Tree belay.

JonoDHawkins 13/Mar/16 Lead dog

Not a great show of force - missed the obvious jug before moving right so tired myself out on an undercling - awesome climbing and well worth a repeat.

with Ash
Tom Pillow ??/2016 Lead
with Dad
Hidden 22/Nov/15 Lead O/S
Billg 03/Oct/15 2nd rpt
with Ollie, Bob Brewer
Ollie B 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with B.Gregory, B.Brewer
Gabe Oliver 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Way easier moves through the bulge than it looks from the ground. Easy for the rest of the route

ian d f 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
onlyfoddington 19/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Ian
Alex Winter 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Good line. Found the hardest bit to be fiddling a wire into the flake.

with Steve
steve_gibbs 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Alex Winter
Elizabeth Allen 20/Aug/15 2nd dog
with Luke
Luke90 20/Aug/15 Lead dog
with Liz
Wendy 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
No? Yes! 28/Jul/15 2nd
charley 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S

The start took a bit of working out, not sure if I missed anything obvious but ended up doing quite technical moves to get past the crux. The conditions didn't help, was very hot - I was literally dripping wet at the rest before the flake. Not sure if I traversed a bit too low to get to the flake, I climbed directly up to it on using pockets rather than swinging onto it. Glad the holds on the flake got better and better! Brilliant route, had to fight the pump but loved it...

with Ange, Kev
valentinesbabe 09/Jul/15 2nd dog

Absolutely awesome climb. Great lead by Charley.

Tithe Technique 09/Jul/15 2nd dog
Sophie Nunn 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Martin
turbojames 06/Jun/15 2nd β
with Matt Ryan, Anne Corbett
smartydh9 24/May/15 Lead O/S
James Marshall 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with sash
David Clover ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/15 -
Tim_C7 ?/Apr/15 Lead
pheotleyr 25/Mar/15 2nd rpt
with Felix
felixizzy 25/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Peter
London Luke 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 09/Nov/14 2nd O/S

Made easier to second because I didn't have to remove the gear protecting the crux.

will_benfold 09/Nov/14 2nd dog

Hung on the rope to retrieve a stuck nut

Mark Stevenson 09/Nov/14 Lead
jammy4536 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Hugobristol ?/Oct/14 2nd
jammy4536 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S

First E1. Definitely satisfied in sending this. Top roped in winter and could not feel any of the holds. Much more pleasant experience today

RichyBOYY 23/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Jamie
David Maddison 07/Sep/14 2nd
steve-grigg 07/Sep/14 Lead β
evhall 07/Sep/14 Lead dog

rest below flake - crux is getting to flake!

with David, Steve P
Cheese Monkey 09/Aug/14 2nd rpt

Much nicer slightly higher traverse to flake this time, probably did it wrong the first time!

with Bradley P
BicycleBradley 09/Aug/14 Lead RP

Slipped off last time due to humidity, got it clean this time around.

James Smith 17/Jul/14 2nd
with tom brum
Dan0Me 04/Jul/14 2nd
with Geoff P
Ian Stirrups 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Down climbed on first attempt for a rest

with Trevor Lewis
Dave Thompson 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
Hidden 03/Jun/14 Lead O/S
hutchay 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Emily Palmer
EmilyElouise 17/May/14 2nd O/S
miriamclaire 04/May/14 2nd O/S
mes32 04/May/14 2nd O/S
with Wilki
Hooligan 21/Apr/14 Lead dog

Did not finish repeat. Lesson for us all there.

with Fen
Hooligan 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

With Tom, Fen and Anne as seconds

with Fen
bpmclimb 09/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Mark, Clare
Huntlyfiddler 09/Apr/14 2nd
Mark Davies PK 09/Apr/14 2nd rpt
with Brian
pheotleyr 30/Mar/14 Lead RP

Finally. The layback is kind of easy in a way, but also kind of hard...

with Felix
felixizzy 30/Mar/14 2nd dog

Hold pulled and fell off on a rest

Oddjob 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Rosie
James Smith 29/Mar/14 TR rpt
with ric, si
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd dog
Stuart William 20/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Thoroughly enjoyable throughout. Not as hard or scary as it looked.

with Pleb
Cheese Monkey 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Crux definitely at the start! Got boxed fiddling a wire into the flake, down climbed to the rest, then easily motored up it, simple

with Juliuus, Neil
Hidden 13/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Dan0Me 08/Mar/14 2nd
with Tom P
Hidden 07/Mar/14 Lead rpt
ACorbett82 ??/2014 2nd dog
adam6509 ??/2014 Lead
with will bugden
pheotleyr 08/Dec/13 Lead dog

Didn't dare to commit to the layback first time, took a rest.

with Mike
Hidden 08/Dec/13 2nd dog
zcsharp 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
jammy4536 24/Nov/13 2nd O/S
shoulders 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 22/Aug/13 2nd
gregclarke 14/Jul/13 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 14/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Runner fell out of the base of the flake - again!

with Ben Crook, Greg Clarke
richardashe 13/Jul/13 Lead dog

Had one fall low down

Hidden 12/Jul/13 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S
cpoad 17/Jun/13 Lead dog

Was too tense. Got nut badly placed and stuck on lower crack and pumped and hung. When reached flake couldn't get gear in quickly and had to hang when I eventually did.

with John S
tobydunford 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
kelliroberts3 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Chazwoz 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Jim Tan
Jim Tan 08/Jun/13 2nd
with Chazwoz
alice_loudon 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Geoff
becoming-stranger 22/May/13 2nd O/S
Rowan Mitchell 18/May/13 2nd O/S
with Andre Steele
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead
Hidden 05/May/13 Lead β
Nick Russell 02/May/13 Lead O/S

I found the technical crux to be low down. The hardest part about the flake was trying to arrange gear! Quality climbing

with Emily
Hidden 02/May/13 2nd β
Gibbo 02/May/13 Lead
with Sash Coombes
James Smith 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S

super climbing up the flake! worth 2 stars for me.

with ben
jon_ridley 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Ollie, Geoff Pyatt
jon_ridley 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S


Wil Treasure 20/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Feb/13 2nd
suds_01 04/Jan/13 2nd
with Jackson
Hidden 15/Sep/12 TR O/S
ladymuck 07/Sep/12 TR dnf
with Alastair Heggie
Garrouli 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Northern Pete
Hidden 30/Aug/12 2nd rpt
arandall 30/Aug/12 Lead O/S

First E1 lead not on granite

Hidden 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 15/Aug/12 2nd β
with Tomar
Tomar 15/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Peter
1202alarm 11/Aug/12 Lead
with Jamie Evans
Hidden 22/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S
kirsten 21/Jul/12 2nd

Pumped to b*****y!

with Brian
Kemics 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Had to downclimb to the rest after arranging gear in the flake and got pretty pumped. Really quality moves on the bulge too and an exciting finish. Solid in the grade. I'd even say 3 stars.

with Rick
bpmclimb 21/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
Stanley 19/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Finally got it. Really scared pulling through the flake after the fall I took last time but the rest went smoothly. Start is definitely the hardest part.

Stanners 19/Jul/12 2nd rpt

Last route of the day, completely knackered! Excessive swearing at the stuck gear and time limit on getting back to the car park made this one hard to enjoy as much as the first time I did it. Great effort again from Mart!

with Martin Stanfield
jon_ridley 17/Jul/12 2nd O/S
grp 17/Jul/12 Lead
Didymus 24/May/12 Lead O/S

Last did it 17 years ago so not technically an an onsight. Great route

with Rich
Hidden 13/May/12 2nd rpt
bpmclimb 08/May/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
Tim M ?/May/12 Lead rpt
with Emma
climbergg ?/May/12 2nd
Pete Rigby 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Merlin March
bpmclimb 05/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Phil
Hidden 05/Mar/12 2nd β
bpmclimb 25/Jan/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
paultaylor 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Ali D ??/2012 Lead O/S
with Jamie R
Katherine Ross 10/Dec/11 TR dnf

Charlie got as far as the flake before falling off and deciding he didn't fancy it. I toproped to his highest gear.

Cornish Cream 04/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with Geoff
Alan100 23/Oct/11 Lead

The start is harder than it looks and the flake is easier! Really liked the moves during the flake sequence though - very satisfying

Dave89 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Phil P
mattshort 23/Oct/11 2nd
John Southworth 16/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/11 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 30/Sep/11 2nd rpt
with helen
JamesRich 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S

A good although pumpy route. The moves aren't too hard but putting gear in (or taking it out) makes it harder.

Quarryboy 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Good route, its probably not worth placing gear in the fake as long as you make the effort to get some bomber kit in at the top of the grove. The technical crux is actually at the start but the moves into and up the flake are quite pumpy. on the absail I needed to rescue Rob from the nabouring route Smaug the dragon. He got past the crux to a jug in the middle of a blank section and then wasn't able to do the next move or reverse. so in the end I had to tie him to my abb line and take his gear out for him which was quite funny.

Hidden 31/Aug/11 2nd
scorpia97 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Great climb, spent a long time trying to decide whether or not to go for the direct, decided against but will definitely come back one day..

with Caspian
thomasadixon 22/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Aug/11 2nd
Dave Ing 04/Aug/11 Lead dnf

Downclimbed back to the ground after one quick attempt which got me up to 5m. I'll keep this as a project.

luke13 ?/Aug/11 -
with oli
Stanley 25/Jul/11 Lead dnf

Normally cant see the point of putting did not finish, but this climb resulted in my biggest fall ever, as a result of trying to go from Vdiff to E1 in about 2 weeks. A not so gentle reminder to wear helmet, following falling face first into the rockface and then taking out my belayer. Awesome climb, just messed up the sequence by coming too far right and couldn't revse. :)

Stanners 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Personally found the start leading up to the bulge the crux. Powering up the flake was more execution. (Stripped gear myself on abseil, leaving martin to give it a lead which went....interestingly. Good job the gear is bomber.

with Ellie Stanfield, Martin Stanfield
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S
stvredmond 29/May/11 Lead

was great climbing but certainly strenuous. one of those do you hang around and place kit or just go for it. best route ive done at this crag

Hidden 29/May/11 2nd
Helnorris 29/May/11 2nd

Really fun climb, looks very daunting from the ground, but loved the layback up the flake. :)

Hidden 22/May/11 TR
Hidden 22/May/11 TR dog
timstyles 13/May/11 Lead dog

Rested on gear at 3m trying to work out moves up the initial cracks. Rest of the route was fine, so I should get it clean next time.

with Huw Howells
Tom Heslam ?/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ed Heslam
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead dog
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
dale1968 11/Mar/11 2nd

nice big holds to pull on!

with Tom
Hidden 11/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Lead dnf
georgeevans88 08/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with Harry
Hidden 08/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
grp 20/Oct/10 Lead dog

foiled again, pumpy, im sure ill be back for a 3rd try though, good route

Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
LisaA 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S


with Andy
Jack_F 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Suberb climb possibly HVS 5a? But who cares it was an awesome climb

adam cooper*super* 18/Aug/10 2nd O/S

like the hanging flake moves, doesnt feel like 5b though

andy dunn 02/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with J
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
timstyles 03/Jul/10 2nd β

Good holds high up on the traverse right. Roof at the top easier than the flake lower down.

with Huw Howells
Hidden 22/Jun/10 2nd
andy dunn 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Nice moves up the cracks. The hidden jug at about 4m proved to be quite well hidden. Up the flake felt pumpy, I was rather thankful that I got the right sized nut for the flake at the second time of asking. Fairly straight forward moves getting over the roof after.

with Darren, J
ruaidh 31/May/10 2nd

First moves up the crack are teh hardest I think. The key is the pocket/jug on the left at about 4m. Micro-cam useful just under the bulge to the left of the OH flake. The flake itself is strenuous but positive, though I didn't have to arrange the nut.

with Tim
bpmclimb 21/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 21/Mar/10 2nd
gnc760 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Rose Williams
T ny ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
jlgoddard 27/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Dan_Carroll 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Eric Herring
JPGR ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Steve Ahern
Hidden 15/Jul/09 TR
Hidden 15/Jul/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
JimR 02/May/09 -
luke13 20/Apr/09 2nd RP
with Dec
deklan 16/Apr/09 Lead
with luke+julie
BeccaSnowden 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 14/Apr/09 2nd rpt
with Becca
cy 11/Oct/08 2nd
with Al
Al Franks 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
RagingPuffin 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Claire
Steerpike 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Huw
Humpty Dangler 09/Jun/08 2nd rpt

Jordan fell whilst resting on a piece of gear that pinged out of the flake, proving the importance of good gear on the left and the effectiveness of half ropes. He took a bit of a pendulum and ended up 2 metres off the deck. By my reckoning, if you slip when making that placement or when passing it and it comes out then you will hit the floor. My second attempt at seconding was much easier for knowing the initial sequence of moves up to 3 metres and I finished the whole route without a pause. I came away convinced I could lead it, and may give it a try on Thursday evening. Having to protect the flake myself will make it an entirely different proposition however.

Hidden 09/Jun/08 Lead dog
Paul Robertson 08/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Placing gear in the flake is the crux and probably essential for a safe ascent.

thomasadixon 13/May/08 Lead rpt

You can put gear in above you before moving left, there's no need for gear in the flake itself.

with Ben
thomasadixon 03/May/08 Lead rpt

Slipped off the easy bit at the top of the flake on the first attempt and busted my ankle, good catch by Maria! Got back on and lead it, really good varied route.

with Maria
Feeling bold 03/May/08 2nd O/S

A real cracker of a route, 3 stars from me all the way.

mattf77 30/Mar/08 Lead β

first E1 - lovely

with will
Humpty Dangler 24/Mar/08 2nd dog

Standing at the bottom and looking up at the route for the first time I expected all the difficulty to be in surmounting the bulge at mid-height and getting over the roof at the top. In fact the real problem was at the bottom. The parallel cracks were hard work, but were avoidable to the left, where a huge jug and some high feet allowed access to an invisible jug that opened up the rest of the route. From there it was plain sailing, the bulge was easy because of the holds on the flake, and the roof has massive holds. And Jordan dropped his Reverso. The shout of "Below!", came ten seconds after it buried itself in the dirt three feet to my left.

Hidden 24/Mar/08 Lead dog
Bristoldave 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Protheroe
Hidden 17/Feb/08 Lead O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
Circus 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Lou
ASchwirtz 08/Aug/07 Lead O/S
piersg ?/Jul/07 TR
Huntlyfiddler 04/Jun/07 2nd
bpmclimb 04/Jun/07 Lead O/S

A good, varied and challenging route. The start is harder than it looks.

with Clare
Lev 17/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Mar/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/07 Lead rpt
Matt Tranter ??/2007 -
richiebongo ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Tanya Scully
gimmer ??/2007 -
craig h 05/Jun/06 TR O/S
with Shunted
Boxy 13/May/06 Lead β
Hidden 06/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/06 Lead rpt
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead dog

Very hard route... extremely strenuous

with Rob Brown
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Hidden ??/2006 -
Fat Tim 11/Jul/05 Lead rpt
with PJ
LC ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/05 Lead β
Will Homoky ?/Apr/05 Lead β
with Nick Ingram
tom.e ??/2005 Lead β
al99 ?/Nov/04 Lead O/S
with Andrew Bitmead
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead dog
Hidden 03/Jun/04 2nd O/S
cem 27/Mar/04 Lead dog

1 rest

with Rob Smithies
Mark Davies PK ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with Laura
guy xavier percival 11/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with rob
_m.cox_ ??/2003 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 06/Oct/02 2nd O/S
with Trevor
Hidden ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
rapidrich 20/Sep/01 Lead O/S
with Katie
Hidden ??/2001 -
Paz ??/2001 Lead O/S
with BUMC
Billg 15/Oct/00 2nd O/S
with Harry
cornishben ??/2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
pezzerrr ??/2000 Lead O/S
KRB 12/Nov/99 Lead β
with Dave Pickford
Stone Muppet ??/1999 TR
with cc
crimpaway ??/1999 Lead
T ny ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1998 -
chris sm 16/Jun/97 2nd O/S
with Dom Goodridge
NeilGriffiths 16/Jul/94 Lead
with paul, jon, marion
ericinbristol ?/Jun/94 Lead
with Sue L
agagsgrot ?/Apr/94 2nd
with Pete
jim_randell 05/Dec/93 TR dog
Hidden 21/Sep/91 Lead
Hidden 29/Apr/90 2nd O/S
AndyB123 ??/1989 2nd O/S
with Andy E
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 51
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set