UKC

Restricted Access

Ownership of the combe is divided between Avon Wildlife Trust (who own the eastern section) and the charitable trust Groundworks South (who own the western section where the majority of the crags are located). The Landowner does not allow climbing on the crags. If climbers do decide to visit and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely and as quickly as is safely possible.

Be aware that there are frequently loose blocks at the top of the smaller buttresses - a cautious approach is advised. As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens are nesting on Eagle Rock - the buttress should be avoided until the signs are removed.

Rockfax Description
Start 8m right of the huge flake. Head up twin thin cracks to a break from where a good hold above aids a move right to reach a slim right-facing flake crack. Nip up this to an easing and follow a crack to a final roof. Move right and pull directly over the roof to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb cracks to a resting place at 4m where they end. Swing right to a hanging flake and motor up this to jugs and ledges. finish over a small overhang.

Ticklists

Dances with Goblins , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9

Feedback

User Date Notes
veronicamelkonian 9 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Still so good!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Still so good!
Rick Sewards Apr, 1998 Show βeta
βeta: This is best done on 2 ropes, and needs attentive belaying - I've seen a real ground-sweeper from the flake. There's a bomber wire at the top of the first crack, but once you get to the flake it's pretty distant, and very strenuous to place more.
Show beta
βeta: This is best done on 2 ropes, and needs attentive belaying - I've seen a real ground-sweeper from the flake. There's a bomber wire at the top of the first crack, but once you get to the flake it's pretty distant, and very strenuous to place more.

Logged Ascents

521 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Goblin Combe

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 78
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 75
Votes cast 81
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bathroom Buttress

Grade: E1 ***
(Orphaned Route Crag)

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