Rockfax Description
III, 3 - 5 hours. One of the best routes of this grade in the Alps, the Forbes has everything you look for in an alpine adventure - excellent climbing, stunning views and a real high mountain feel. The route is often underestimated though, so start early and leave plenty of time for the descent.
Approach - From the Refuge Albert Premier, reach the Glacier du Tour and head southeast in the direction of the Grande Fourche. When the Chardonnet is due south, walk straight towards it, passing just under the rocks at Pte. 3238m to reach the prominent rock buttress southwest of the Aiguille Forbes. Climb up immediately to the left of this and then swing back around to pass over the top of it and continue up 30 degree snow to reach 'La Bosse', the glacial plateau just below the Forbes Arête. Continue up steepening snow to join the ridge next to Pte. 3703m.
1) Turn the first small summit on the south side of the ridge before returning to the north side and traversing across snow slopes to another summit.
2) 4b. Go around the second summit on the south side then come back to the ridge crest at a small col. Climb a short slab (4b) on the north side to reach a small pinnacle.
3) Downclimb a chimney from the top of the pinnacle and then make an exposed traverse across the north face to rejoin the ridge.
4) Follow the ridge crest, turning anything tricky on the north side, to reach a final rocky scramble to the summit.
Descent - From the summit, descend the southwest ridge for 20m to reach the top of a wide 40-45 degree snow couloir dropping down on the right. Descend this, ideally on foot but abseiling from spikes if conditions are bad, sticking to the right (when looking down) as far as possible until you reach a saddle. The couloir is perched above a cliff band so take care and keep concentrating all the way down. From the saddle, continue down the vague ridge crest to reach the top of an abseil line down through a cliff band. There are numerous anchors dotted around but the ones marked on the photo of the descent require 25m abseils. If the abseils are busy, there is also a line further to the right (when facing down) which is reached by climbing back towards the saddle and then traversing across exposed snow slopes to reach the line of anchors. Whichever line you follow, the abseils bring you onto a steep snow slope which gradually eases and leads you back onto the Glacier de L'Epaule. Descend this onto the Glacier du Tour. In good conditions it should be possible to descend more or less directly back to the hut but if this is too crevassed it is necessary to descend the glacier until below the Col du Passon before crossing over via a safer line. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic ridge traverse.

From the Albert Premier, cross the Glacier du Tour in about 2 hours. Climb up the snow slope (50-60 degrees) to make way over bergshrund. Up a bit and then climb the snowy ridge on right to the "Bosse" then up towards the skyline ridge (1.5-2 hours from base of climb). Follow the ridge to the summit. One 6-8 meter section of horizontal ice traversing towards the latter stages of the ridge. About 3-5 hours on the ridge. Descend via the NW Ridge route

Paul Sisley with Maurice and Joseph Crettez 10/Aug/1899

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Top quality Alps under 4000m, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ned_85 19 Jul AltLd
with Senna
with Senna
Senna 19 Jul AltLd
with ned_85
with ned_85
Treeking82 17 Jul -
with Stuart Roberts, John Vernier
with Stuart Roberts, John Vernier
David Kay 17 Jul AltLd O/S Going up was great, going down was a pain. Very soft snow forced us to make abseils down the side of the glacier. Missed the lift so a long walk back to the car.
with Hoyes
Going up was great, going down was a pain. Very soft snow forced us to make abseils down the side of the glacier. Missed the lift so a long walk back to the car.
with Hoyes
Seán Fortune 16 Jul AltLd O/S Long day, probably got it in just before conditions got too bad on it. Descent gully was in shite- definitely go further than rockfax description suggests. Took 6 abs rather than the 3 rockfax suggests on the lower section, loads of tat around. Great route!
with adoran
Long day, probably got it in just before conditions got too bad on it. Descent gully was in shite- definitely go further than rockfax description suggests. Took 6 abs rather than the 3 rockfax suggests on the lower section, loads of tat around. Great route!
with adoran
adoran 16 Jul AltLd O/S Long day! Boots needed a resole so only one crampon fit properly, other one held on with luck and prayers. Descent in horrendous condition, took a head sized block to the shoulder during the abs.
Long day! Boots needed a resole so only one crampon fit properly, other one held on with luck and prayers. Descent in horrendous condition, took a head sized block to the shoulder during the abs.
Rob Royle 10 Jul 2nd Amazing route! Long...... but well worth it! Overall good conditions but with some exposed hard ice in places. The descent gully had signs of lots of previous rock fall.....
with Eric
Amazing route! Long...... but well worth it! Overall good conditions but with some exposed hard ice in places. The descent gully had signs of lots of previous rock fall.....
with Eric
BenCollis 5 Jul Lead Bivvied outside Albert Premier, started at 5am. Walk in was easy until we reached 50 degree grey ice just before the ridge start, did with one axe and bucket belayed my second. Route took longer because we couldn't pass the hard sections as the guide suggests due to no snow. Summited At 12:30. Descent was difficult, just follow the ridge until you reach and big wide gully going down to the right. we downclimbed to abseil anchors then did 8 x 25m abseils to glacier. 12hrs Hut to Hut, missed the lift, walked down to tour. Fantastic route. P.S. we passed two Welsh boys who seemed to be going quite slow, if you made it out alright plz message me.
Bivvied outside Albert Premier, started at 5am. Walk in was easy until we reached 50 degree grey ice just before the ridge start, did with one axe and bucket belayed my second. Route took longer because we couldn't pass the hard sections as the guide suggests due to no snow. Summited At 12:30. Descent was difficult, just follow the ridge until you reach and big wide gully going down to the right. we downclimbed to abseil anchors then did 8 x 25m abseils to glacier. 12hrs Hut to Hut, missed the lift, walked down to tour. Fantastic route. P.S. we passed two Welsh boys who seemed to be going quite slow, if you made it out alright plz message me.
Aislinn_sun ?Jul Lead
Hawb 23 Jun AltLd
with Ben
with Ben
Tom Fullen 23 Jun AltLd O/S Bivvyed at the Albert Prem. Top quality route. The only downside was the queues, but that’s what you get for choosing to do it on a Sunday!
with roym
Bivvyed at the Albert Prem. Top quality route. The only downside was the queues, but that’s what you get for choosing to do it on a Sunday!
with roym
roym 23 Jun AltLd Good route but would have been better on a quieter day! 2 hour walk in and 4 hours on route, got held up a bit. Last couple of hundred metres were painful with only being up to 2500m previously!
Good route but would have been better on a quieter day! 2 hour walk in and 4 hours on route, got held up a bit. Last couple of hundred metres were painful with only being up to 2500m previously!
lo22 17 Jun AltLd Most of the route was spent on dodgy snow traverses, little time spent on rock. Took much longer than rockfax estimated.
Most of the route was spent on dodgy snow traverses, little time spent on rock. Took much longer than rockfax estimated.
Steely12 17 Jun AltLd O/S Like some others we ended up having an epic on this one. 23 hours from bivvy back to Le Tour. Left at 3am, started the route just before 7am and finally summited at 5pm. Lots of soft snow late in the day made progress very slow. Descent was less challenging as the route was tracked, although the abs were a little tricky to find. Deema managed to drop a half set of nuts and a Tibloc down a hole when thrutching through a gap.
Like some others we ended up having an epic on this one. 23 hours from bivvy back to Le Tour. Left at 3am, started the route just before 7am and finally summited at 5pm. Lots of soft snow late in the day made progress very slow. Descent was less challenging as the route was tracked, although the abs were a little tricky to find. Deema managed to drop a half set of nuts and a Tibloc down a hole when thrutching through a gap.
Fallow 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Trace
with Trace
Trace 26 Jul, 2018 AltLd 22.5 Hours...
22.5 Hours...
Rob Exile Ward 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd Conditions don't seem great at the moment, judging from guidebook photos - ice and poor snow where many photos show perfect neve. Still ,we were doing OK until we caught up with a French party who were frighteningly out of their depth - they held us up for an hour or so before we sneaked past via a great little off route slab pitch (4c and no gear in big boots - well done George!) and were able to crack on. Hard descending as mist and cloud had come down, there were many abseil stations so we were very pleased to have carried two ropes. (The French party were choppered off.) And then we walked down from the refuge all the way to Le Tour - so a 2:30 am start, and 12 10 am finish. Long day!
with George
Conditions don't seem great at the moment, judging from guidebook photos - ice and poor snow where many photos show perfect neve. Still ,we were doing OK until we caught up with a French party who were frighteningly out of their depth - they held us up for an hour or so before we sneaked past via a great little off route slab pitch (4c and no gear in big boots - well done George!) and were able to crack on. Hard descending as mist and cloud had come down, there were many abseil stations so we were very pleased to have carried two ropes. (The French party were choppered off.) And then we walked down from the refuge all the way to Le Tour - so a 2:30 am start, and 12 10 am finish. Long day!
with George
Ethan.Jenkins.09 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd
shah 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
alasdaircavaye 7 Jul, 2018 2nd dnf
with Ethan
with Ethan
WTorrensa 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Had an epic in this one- snow conditions weren't great making progress slow and on top of that we abbed down the wrong gully. Ignore the guidebook and go further on to the next gully. Had an unplanned shiver bivi and was 36 hours hut to hut with total of 27 hours on the mountain.
Had an epic in this one- snow conditions weren't great making progress slow and on top of that we abbed down the wrong gully. Ignore the guidebook and go further on to the next gully. Had an unplanned shiver bivi and was 36 hours hut to hut with total of 27 hours on the mountain.
James Rigby 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf poor snow conditions felt it would slow us done enough that the descent would be really poor and time consuming
with Conor
poor snow conditions felt it would slow us done enough that the descent would be really poor and time consuming
with Conor
DermotShiels 7 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 -
Cbulman 29 Jun, 2018 AltLd
PeteDP 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Oliver Smaje 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Jamie
with Jamie
SCClimb 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Icy on top of the serac on the approach. More abseils than rockfax suggests, not sure if this was due to conditions. Missed the last lift, so walked to la Tour.
Icy on top of the serac on the approach. More abseils than rockfax suggests, not sure if this was due to conditions. Missed the last lift, so walked to la Tour.
cacheson 21 Jun, 2018 AltLd Really really good. Descent was a bit grim: abseiled into a gully which then had loads of rockfall coming down, so make sure to stick to the rock faces when abseiling if possible!
with JordanR
Really really good. Descent was a bit grim: abseiled into a gully which then had loads of rockfall coming down, so make sure to stick to the rock faces when abseiling if possible!
with JordanR
Rob_Morris1996 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Just spectacular! Left the bivvy 30mins above the hut at 2:15. The lightning lighting up the night sky made us doubt, but it was coming from hundreds of km away with the clear skies. Made it onto the ridge for sunrise around 5:30, 1st team all the way along with great snow conditions. Descent easy to locate due to footsteps and a quick refresh of the decent notes, 3x25m as described (used 1x60m rope). Quick break at the hut after packing up the bivvy kit and made the lift down with time to spare.
Just spectacular! Left the bivvy 30mins above the hut at 2:15. The lightning lighting up the night sky made us doubt, but it was coming from hundreds of km away with the clear skies. Made it onto the ridge for sunrise around 5:30, 1st team all the way along with great snow conditions. Descent easy to locate due to footsteps and a quick refresh of the decent notes, 3x25m as described (used 1x60m rope). Quick break at the hut after packing up the bivvy kit and made the lift down with time to spare.
steve_gibbs 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Rob Morris
with Rob Morris
oliver_tippett 18 Jun, 2018 AltLd β
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 AltLd
OLGrady 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Amazing route although could have been in better condition. Very little snow made the last section harder than it should have been and caused us to have to abseil the whole descent with about 17 abseils taking up a lot of time and leading to an unplanned bivi. Return trip over the glacier was interesting due to it been heavily crevassed. Looking forward to doing it in better conditions.
Amazing route although could have been in better condition. Very little snow made the last section harder than it should have been and caused us to have to abseil the whole descent with about 17 abseils taking up a lot of time and leading to an unplanned bivi. Return trip over the glacier was interesting due to it been heavily crevassed. Looking forward to doing it in better conditions.
ChrisH89 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Awesome route and mountain, but extremely lean conditions made this much harder than normal. Turned into a bit of an epic with an unplanned bivvy in a snowstorm above the rock band on descent, which required about 17 abseils due to lack of snow in the descent gully. Heavily crevassed glacier to descend the next day, we managed to navigate it all successfully except the last 250m before the hut when I fell 6m into a crevasse and had to be hauled out...
with OLGrady
Awesome route and mountain, but extremely lean conditions made this much harder than normal. Turned into a bit of an epic with an unplanned bivvy in a snowstorm above the rock band on descent, which required about 17 abseils due to lack of snow in the descent gully. Heavily crevassed glacier to descend the next day, we managed to navigate it all successfully except the last 250m before the hut when I fell 6m into a crevasse and had to be hauled out...
with OLGrady
PatrickRT 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
bruce ??, 2017 -
roxyroundtheworld 28 Aug, 2016 2nd Wow!!
Wow!!
Chuck 26 Aug, 2016 -
Hidden 26 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Graeme Barr 25 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Flynn
with Flynn
masa-alpin 19 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S 5hrs from Albert 1er to the summit. Went off-route a little in 2 places. Normal descent with a few abseils.
5hrs from Albert 1er to the summit. Went off-route a little in 2 places. Normal descent with a few abseils.
robgixer 19 Aug, 2016 AltLd Summit by 9am hut by midday. Luckily another team were descending at the same time to share ropes for the abseil over the bergschrund
Summit by 9am hut by midday. Luckily another team were descending at the same time to share ropes for the abseil over the bergschrund
seanhendo123 12 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S 8hours hut to summit, 6hours back to hut as snow conditions were deteriorating.....great route, ran the whole ridge together with nothing too difficult. Great (long) day
8hours hut to summit, 6hours back to hut as snow conditions were deteriorating.....great route, ran the whole ridge together with nothing too difficult. Great (long) day
bclifton 11 Aug, 2016 -
timmeehhhh 7 Aug, 2016 - Breakfast at 2am in the Trient hut, summited at 11 am. Snow covered rock and wind-driven spindrift made for an exiting ride!
Breakfast at 2am in the Trient hut, summited at 11 am. Snow covered rock and wind-driven spindrift made for an exiting ride!
Hidden 2 Aug, 2016 Lead
JoeWilliams 1 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Kate , Ollie B
with Kate , Ollie B
Ollie B 1 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with K.Williams, J.Williams
with K.Williams, J.Williams
ImmyRyan ?Aug, 2016 2nd Long route, very slushy wet snow
with Eduardo, Aislinn_sun
Long route, very slushy wet snow
with Eduardo, Aislinn_sun
Hidden ?Aug, 2016 -
Aislinn_sun ?Aug, 2016 2nd
mattdennies 26 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S First alpine epic. 1am start, approach was in great condition but not much snow on the ridge making for lots of climbing and a couple of abs. Snow soon went slushy making progress slow and sketchy. 3 abs to descend gully and then had to ab across very large bergschrund. 18 hours hut to hut followed by a walk down to Le Tour as we narrowly missed the last lift by about 6 hours.
with Craig
First alpine epic. 1am start, approach was in great condition but not much snow on the ridge making for lots of climbing and a couple of abs. Snow soon went slushy making progress slow and sketchy. 3 abs to descend gully and then had to ab across very large bergschrund. 18 hours hut to hut followed by a walk down to Le Tour as we narrowly missed the last lift by about 6 hours.
with Craig
Hidden 26 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Heather Osborne 26 Jul, 2016 AltLd Inadvertently had a massive day, 24 hours from hut to campsite. Set off at 1.30am and made good time up to the start of the rock ridge, despite getting cold and then really bad hot aches at the start of the steep snow, and feeling really exhausted at the final section of steep snow before the rock ridge. Summited at 2pm (had anticipated 9pm), pitched more than planned due to soft snow, and had two unexpected abseils due to the need to stick to the rock rather than traverse the snow. Shared abseils with Matt and Craig, Charlotte and Joel, Greg and Rob and a french pair which took far too long. Eventually made it back to the hut and had a painful walk back to the valley. Amazing albeit slightly epic day.
Inadvertently had a massive day, 24 hours from hut to campsite. Set off at 1.30am and made good time up to the start of the rock ridge, despite getting cold and then really bad hot aches at the start of the steep snow, and feeling really exhausted at the final section of steep snow before the rock ridge. Summited at 2pm (had anticipated 9pm), pitched more than planned due to soft snow, and had two unexpected abseils due to the need to stick to the rock rather than traverse the snow. Shared abseils with Matt and Craig, Charlotte and Joel, Greg and Rob and a french pair which took far too long. Eventually made it back to the hut and had a painful walk back to the valley. Amazing albeit slightly epic day.
Charlotte Nelson 26 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Joel Miller 26 Jul, 2016 AltLd
MightyStew 24 Jul, 2016 AltLd rpt Moved together
with Etienne Lachaud
Moved together
with Etienne Lachaud
Michael 18 Jul, 2016 -
nbryant 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Great day out from the valley up in trainers then changed on the glacier. Plenty of sloppy snow that made things a little slower, and I dropped my axe half way along the ridge which made for an interesting second half!
Great day out from the valley up in trainers then changed on the glacier. Plenty of sloppy snow that made things a little slower, and I dropped my axe half way along the ridge which made for an interesting second half!
Hidden 10 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Michael 8 Jul, 2016 -
scorpia97 2 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Down climbed after Migot Spur, back at the car park for midday. Full write up: http://chasingmastery.com/migot-spur-and-forbes-arrete-going-back-for-round-ii/
Down climbed after Migot Spur, back at the car park for midday. Full write up: http://chasingmastery.com/migot-spur-and-forbes-arrete-going-back-for-round-ii/
CraigOsborne ?Jul, 2016 - 2nd time in crampons, scary. 23 hour day
2nd time in crampons, scary. 23 hour day
CameronH 28 Jun, 2016 -
Just Will 28 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Alfie Maun 27 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Joe Fisher
with Joe Fisher
Hidden ?Jun, 2016 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2016 AltLd dnf
laurashaw ?Jun, 2016 AltLd
HP9 13 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Tomo cesen
with Tomo cesen
Hidden 5 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
ianstevens 4 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Awesome route, appalling snow conditions which made for an "interesting" time. Bivi'd at the bottom of the first snow slope, which was in good nick, lulling us into a false sense of security. By the time we got up on the ridge proper the sun had begun to work its magic, and we battled slush to the summit as this seemed easier than reversing. Confronted with a couple of big cornices on the descent and the poor snow, we opted to abseil down a line of tat in no man's land. What felt like a million abseils later, including some rope jamming, prussicking and rope slicing, we found ourselves in the lower reaches of the Mignot Spur, which we descended, reaching the bergschrund around 8pm. By this point the snow had begun to solidify, as we teetered across a tiny (1m thick) snow bridge above the gaping crevasse which thankfully held. Made it to the bivi by 10pm, the Albert Prem by 11.45 and the lift by 2am. 18 hours en route, 22 on the go.
Awesome route, appalling snow conditions which made for an "interesting" time. Bivi'd at the bottom of the first snow slope, which was in good nick, lulling us into a false sense of security. By the time we got up on the ridge proper the sun had begun to work its magic, and we battled slush to the summit as this seemed easier than reversing. Confronted with a couple of big cornices on the descent and the poor snow, we opted to abseil down a line of tat in no man's land. What felt like a million abseils later, including some rope jamming, prussicking and rope slicing, we found ourselves in the lower reaches of the Mignot Spur, which we descended, reaching the bergschrund around 8pm. By this point the snow had begun to solidify, as we teetered across a tiny (1m thick) snow bridge above the gaping crevasse which thankfully held. Made it to the bivi by 10pm, the Albert Prem by 11.45 and the lift by 2am. 18 hours en route, 22 on the go.
Mr Spoons 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd LONG, LONG day
with Vangelis Stavroulakis
LONG, LONG day
with Vangelis Stavroulakis
MightyStew 11 May, 2015 AltLd dnf
with Ruslan Aizatulin
with Ruslan Aizatulin
Dougbart 29 Oct, 2014 - 17hrs on the go, a lot of snow on the ridge.
with Iain
17hrs on the go, a lot of snow on the ridge.
with Iain
Hidden 29 Oct, 2014 AltLd
pow22 9 Sep, 2014 -
Hidden 8 Sep, 2014 -
Hidden 6 Sep, 2014 -
matty123 3 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 3 Sep, 2014 AltLd
ollyroberts 23 Aug, 2014 AltLd Moved together. Couple of pitches near snowy saddles and last gendarme. Very soft snow and white out, felt like Scotland.
Moved together. Couple of pitches near snowy saddles and last gendarme. Very soft snow and white out, felt like Scotland.
davkeo 21 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Had planned to bivi at the Albert 1er hut but ended up just grabbing a few winks in the drying room instead. Midnight start from the hut with approx. 12hrs for the round trip. First alpine mixed route and a big day, moving all the time.
Had planned to bivi at the Albert 1er hut but ended up just grabbing a few winks in the drying room instead. Midnight start from the hut with approx. 12hrs for the round trip. First alpine mixed route and a big day, moving all the time.
Roberttaylor 17 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S With James Holland, in descent, no abseils.
With James Holland, in descent, no abseils.
JHolland 17 Aug, 2014 -
Hidden 14 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Paul ablitt 14 Aug, 2014 Lead fresh snow - ridge corniced - climbed ridge in sun then descended into cloud then snow and finally whiteout. Only two other climbers out doing migot spur that day meet on ridge . Very slow due to conditions 18hrs hut to hut !!
with Rushy
fresh snow - ridge corniced - climbed ridge in sun then descended into cloud then snow and finally whiteout. Only two other climbers out doing migot spur that day meet on ridge . Very slow due to conditions 18hrs hut to hut !!
with Rushy
chapmand 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S 2hrs 40mins from hut to ridge. 1hr 45 mins to the summit. Good snow conditions.
2hrs 40mins from hut to ridge. 1hr 45 mins to the summit. Good snow conditions.
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Ralfy 23 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Pete Morgan
with Pete Morgan
oliverk 15 Sep, 2013 -
with Mps110
with Mps110
Hidden 15 Sep, 2013 -
tskelhon ?Sep, 2013 AltLd on the simul
on the simul
clmacdonald ?Sep, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 6 Aug, 2013 -
Hidden 6 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Aug, 2013 AltLd
nickwhimster 22 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S moved together, felt sick on the top as first route of trip.
moved together, felt sick on the top as first route of trip.
monsteratt 22 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S First route of the trip so found it hard work. Great route though. Snow was in good nick. One tricky section on the arête where snow step had disappeared requiring belay. Otherwise all moving together.
with Nick Whimster
First route of the trip so found it hard work. Great route though. Snow was in good nick. One tricky section on the arête where snow step had disappeared requiring belay. Otherwise all moving together.
with Nick Whimster
Michael 21 Jul, 2013 -
Harry Ellis 13 Jul, 2013 - Lovely route, great nick
with Chris Cox
Lovely route, great nick
with Chris Cox
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 -
jcw ??, 2013 -
walts4 ??, 2013 -
Cham32 ??, 2013 -
bencole 11 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Epic
Epic
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 2nd
Hidden 3 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Rockley 27 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Ewan Russell 27 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with steve(friend of james wilson), Rockley
with steve(friend of james wilson), Rockley
Hidden 25 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
abtibbs 9 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Beautiful climb, quite grueling. Took the wrong descent, which required about 10m of tat.
with HarryB
Beautiful climb, quite grueling. Took the wrong descent, which required about 10m of tat.
with HarryB
HarryB 9 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S 15 hours hut to hut, accidentally abbed the charlet-bettembourg with only 1 rope
with abtibbs
15 hours hut to hut, accidentally abbed the charlet-bettembourg with only 1 rope
with abtibbs
Hidden 7 Jul, 2012 2nd
steveprice.exmouth 5 Jul, 2012 AltLd Helicopter assisted descent!
Helicopter assisted descent!
Steve Woollard 5 Jul, 2012 AltLd
maria85 27 Jun, 2012 AltLd dnf Bailed down north face shortly before summit as clouds were rolling in & was getting late. Of course, they disappeared soon after!
with Jules
Bailed down north face shortly before summit as clouds were rolling in & was getting late. Of course, they disappeared soon after!
with Jules
Hidden 23 Jun, 2012 -
nking100 ??, 2012 -
Hidden 17 Aug, 2011 -
Somerset swede basher 12 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S 13 hrs hut to hut (bivi out side the hut), left about an hour after the hut based teams, stuck behind 4 parties on the ridge. Great route.
with Andy Kennedy
13 hrs hut to hut (bivi out side the hut), left about an hour after the hut based teams, stuck behind 4 parties on the ridge. Great route.
with Andy Kennedy
Alpandy 12 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Dom
with Dom
Kris 10 Aug, 2011 -
Hidden 1 Aug, 2011 -
Uisdean hawthorn ?Aug, 2011 -
brighters ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S cooper-knock
cooper-knock
kenneM 20 Jul, 2011 AltLd Steve Marner
with Steve Marner
Steve Marner
with Steve Marner
TimPerkin 10 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Nick King, Derek Buckle
with Nick King, Derek Buckle
Tommy Harris 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S 18 hours round trip, got caught in bad storm on descent which made things tricky...
with scott swalling
18 hours round trip, got caught in bad storm on descent which made things tricky...
with scott swalling
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 -
liamo333 ?Jun, 2011 - Horrendous conditions, 45hrs valley to valley, I forced shiver bivi on the decent, couldnt find couloir in dark. Great route.
Horrendous conditions, 45hrs valley to valley, I forced shiver bivi on the decent, couldnt find couloir in dark. Great route.
Hidden ??, 2011 -
stuart34 9 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S moved together for whole route, 8hrs hut, summit and back down
with Kim Ladiges
moved together for whole route, 8hrs hut, summit and back down
with Kim Ladiges
mark-abz 1 Aug, 2010 -
with Alex
with Alex
Andy Graham ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Tom Pearson
with Tom Pearson
Si ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
Misha 25 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Not hard but turned out to be very long. 2hrs to the start of the route, just under 2hrs to the arete, 6hrs on the arete to the summit, 5hrs for the descent, 15.5hrs in total including about an hour of rests. Started at 3.30am from an excellent bivvy outside the Albert 1er (woke up at 2am), got back to the bivvy at 7pm. Good neve to the ridge after a cold night but slushy snow on the descent. It had snowed two days earlier so the ridge was in mixed condition (cracks were dry but plenty of snow on ledges), so crampons on all the way. Advantage was having footsteps to follow from a couple of parties that were (well) ahead of us. Particularly useful on the descent between the end of the snow couloir and the abs. Good weather except for cloud coming in temporarily on the descent and a bitterly cold Northerly wind. Had originally planned to do the Aig du Tour the following day, then go over to the Trient and do the Aig Dorees the next day but were too tired to get up early and so were sdhappy to go back down after a slow breakfast at the bivvy followed by an omelette at the Albert 1er.
with Dave Commins
Not hard but turned out to be very long. 2hrs to the start of the route, just under 2hrs to the arete, 6hrs on the arete to the summit, 5hrs for the descent, 15.5hrs in total including about an hour of rests. Started at 3.30am from an excellent bivvy outside the Albert 1er (woke up at 2am), got back to the bivvy at 7pm. Good neve to the ridge after a cold night but slushy snow on the descent. It had snowed two days earlier so the ridge was in mixed condition (cracks were dry but plenty of snow on ledges), so crampons on all the way. Advantage was having footsteps to follow from a couple of parties that were (well) ahead of us. Particularly useful on the descent between the end of the snow couloir and the abs. Good weather except for cloud coming in temporarily on the descent and a bitterly cold Northerly wind. Had originally planned to do the Aig du Tour the following day, then go over to the Trient and do the Aig Dorees the next day but were too tired to get up early and so were sdhappy to go back down after a slow breakfast at the bivvy followed by an omelette at the Albert 1er.
with Dave Commins
Hidden 3 Jul, 2010 -
davepc ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
with misha
with misha
mussonlr 26 Jun, 2010 -
with Alan Stapleton
with Alan Stapleton
Guy Wilson ??, 2010 -
JonHarvey 12 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with James Howell, jayjackson
with James Howell, jayjackson
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 -
blouise ?Aug, 2009 -
with James Gordon
with James Gordon
Gav Parker 14 Jul, 2009 2nd Fantastic route very exciting right on my limit...11hrs total
Fantastic route very exciting right on my limit...11hrs total
Glyn 1 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
davefount ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Glyn
with Glyn
Hidden 22 Jun, 2009 AltLd dnf
BenJacobs 22 Jun, 2009 AltLd dnf
with Steve and Ollie
with Steve and Ollie
jamieevans ??, 2009 AltLd O/S
barksmo ??, 2009 AltLd
liz j 2 Sep, 2008 -
with Matt Dickinson/Karin Burnett
with Matt Dickinson/Karin Burnett
garethsteel ?Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
chris m fisher 17 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with John
with John
Hidden 9 Aug, 2008 AltLd dnf
Hidden 24 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
benclimbing ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Steel
with Gareth Steel
hamish2016 ?Jul, 2008 AltLd First route after arriving in Cham.
with chris burn, Richard Hirons, Lou Atkin
First route after arriving in Cham.
with chris burn, Richard Hirons, Lou Atkin
Hidden ?Jun, 2008 2nd
James Gordon ??, 2008 -
Peter Metcalfe 17 Sep, 2007 - Hit by a thunderstorm whilst abseiling down the W Ridge. Scariest Alpine experience - so far!
with Sophia
Hit by a thunderstorm whilst abseiling down the W Ridge. Scariest Alpine experience - so far!
with Sophia
Rob84 19 Aug, 2007 Lead
with Stephen Bond and MBC Steve
with Stephen Bond and MBC Steve
spbond 19 Aug, 2007 2nd
with Steve, Rob84
with Steve, Rob84
Hidden 4 Aug, 2007 -
chrissloan84 4 Aug, 2007 -
Hidden 29 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Stuart Johnston 28 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Wil Treasure ?Jul, 2007 -
gripped01 ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
with Dave Tait
with Dave Tait
NickST ?Jul, 2006 - Excellent route!! Early start from the Albert Premeier hut saw us starting the rock section by sunrise. Great views, position and exposure!
with Sean Jacobs
Excellent route!! Early start from the Albert Premeier hut saw us starting the rock section by sunrise. Great views, position and exposure!
with Sean Jacobs
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2005 AltLd O/S
Yyonnx 12 Jul, 2005 - First day out, got hypothermic crossing the glacier in clothing that was too lite. Back to hut and a long, lazy day talking about the next day. Next day, as we were leaving the hut at 12:30 a.m. a group is coming in from having left at 4:30 the previous morning! Can't remember exactly but think they were Spanish. They got way off the ridge on the south side, they did not seem that much worse for wear though... We made it to the climb and onto the ridge in about 3 hours from the hut. We lost time on the ridge using too much of a pitch approach instead of simul-climbing. Had an idiotic party overtake on the horizontal ice traverse and I went ballistic on them at the short rappel that follows. Stupid, they didn't care at all that what they had done put my life in jeopardy. Finished up and had an easy descent into the waiting sunshine of the Glacier du Tour below. 12 hours hut to hut.
with Doog
First day out, got hypothermic crossing the glacier in clothing that was too lite. Back to hut and a long, lazy day talking about the next day. Next day, as we were leaving the hut at 12:30 a.m. a group is coming in from having left at 4:30 the previous morning! Can't remember exactly but think they were Spanish. They got way off the ridge on the south side, they did not seem that much worse for wear though... We made it to the climb and onto the ridge in about 3 hours from the hut. We lost time on the ridge using too much of a pitch approach instead of simul-climbing. Had an idiotic party overtake on the horizontal ice traverse and I went ballistic on them at the short rappel that follows. Stupid, they didn't care at all that what they had done put my life in jeopardy. Finished up and had an easy descent into the waiting sunshine of the Glacier du Tour below. 12 hours hut to hut.
with Doog
Mat J ?Jul, 2005 AltLd Wow, long route.Bivi in Signall Reilley (sp?) the night before. Very dehydrated by the top.Descent and jumping the schrund at the bottom was entertaining.
with Ali
Wow, long route.Bivi in Signall Reilley (sp?) the night before. Very dehydrated by the top.Descent and jumping the schrund at the bottom was entertaining.
with Ali
mike.moss ??, 2004 Lead O/S
with Mark
with Mark
NickJH ?Jul, 2003 Lead
joe king ?Jun, 2003 -
with steve petit
with steve petit
Hidden 15 Jul, 2002 AltLd dnf
Laramadness 9 Jul, 1999 -
with JC
with JC
neal 5 Aug, 1998 AltLd From tent on glacier
From tent on glacier
Lenny ?Aug, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Richard
with Richard
stokesrees ?Jun, 1997 AltLd
with Francois Marcotte
with Francois Marcotte
Hidden ?Jul, 1996 AltLd
andy_pemberton ?Jul, 1995 - Bivvied on the rognon. The first route we ever did in under guide book time! Take two ropes for the absail on the descent (we didn't!).
with Jon Scorer
Bivvied on the rognon. The first route we ever did in under guide book time! Take two ropes for the absail on the descent (we didn't!).
with Jon Scorer
Hidden ??, 1994 Solo
Hidden 8 Aug, 1993 AltLd
Richard Weller ?Aug, 1993 -
with Simon Currin
with Simon Currin
Hidden 24 Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
garywalker147 ??, 1992 AltLd
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons ?Aug, 1991 AltLd O/S
with Gavin Maclean
with Gavin Maclean
wbo 15 Jul, 1991 AltLd 1st alpine route, and excellent
with Andy Donaldson
1st alpine route, and excellent
with Andy Donaldson
Tim Sparrow ?Jul, 1991 - Summit at dawn. Fantastic route. First alpine route that went really well.
with ChrisJD
Summit at dawn. Fantastic route. First alpine route that went really well.
with ChrisJD
Hidden ?Jul, 1991 AltLd
Dave ??, 1991 AltLd
Pete_Frost ?Jul, 1990 AltLd Three star classic.
Three star classic.
Hidden ??, 1990 -
Hidden 14 Aug, 1989 Solo
Hidden 18 Jul, 1989 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 1989 -
John Rothwell ??, 1989 AltLd
Chris Ellis 31 Jul, 1988 -
with Steve Legg, Andy Daykin, Rob Gale
with Steve Legg, Andy Daykin, Rob Gale
BigHairyIan 30 Jul, 1988 AltLd O/S Took us a long time. 2hrs to the start of the route, just under 2hrs to the arête, 5hrs on the arête to the summit, 6hrs for the descent, 15:30hrs in total including about an hour of rests. Started at 3.30am from an excellent bivvy outside the Albert 1er (woke up at 2am), got back to the bivvy at 7pm. Good neve to the ridge after a cold night but slushy snow on the descent. The ridge was in mixed condition (cracks were dry but plenty of snow on ledges), so crampons on all the way. Advantage was having footsteps to follow from a couple of parties that were (well) ahead of us. Massive struggle on the descent, I stood on my hand (with crampons on) and fell down the couloir for about 100ft. Getting off the bottom of the couloir across the bergshrund and on to the glacier proved problematical, and then the traverse back to the Albert 1er was a nightmare. We lost the path and had to walk roped. We didn’t actually fall into any crevasses, but stood through the snow covered tops of a few. I was so tired that I wanted to lie down and go to sleep! Had originally planned to do the Aig du Tour the following day, but we were too tired to get up early so had a lie in and walked back to the valley in the afternoon. Great trip though!
Took us a long time. 2hrs to the start of the route, just under 2hrs to the arête, 5hrs on the arête to the summit, 6hrs for the descent, 15:30hrs in total including about an hour of rests. Started at 3.30am from an excellent bivvy outside the Albert 1er (woke up at 2am), got back to the bivvy at 7pm. Good neve to the ridge after a cold night but slushy snow on the descent. The ridge was in mixed condition (cracks were dry but plenty of snow on ledges), so crampons on all the way. Advantage was having footsteps to follow from a couple of parties that were (well) ahead of us. Massive struggle on the descent, I stood on my hand (with crampons on) and fell down the couloir for about 100ft. Getting off the bottom of the couloir across the bergshrund and on to the glacier proved problematical, and then the traverse back to the Albert 1er was a nightmare. We lost the path and had to walk roped. We didn’t actually fall into any crevasses, but stood through the snow covered tops of a few. I was so tired that I wanted to lie down and go to sleep! Had originally planned to do the Aig du Tour the following day, but we were too tired to get up early so had a lie in and walked back to the valley in the afternoon. Great trip though!
PeteM99 ??, 1986 AltLd
davemhart 3 Aug, 1984 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 1984 -
DonnyDave 10 Jul, 1980 AltLd An Amazing Alpine route. Not too hard but amazing scenery in serious settings. I had done the climb the year before, but was one of Ian's first Alpine climbs.
with Steve Sykes, Mick Ward, Ian Freebie
An Amazing Alpine route. Not too hard but amazing scenery in serious settings. I had done the climb the year before, but was one of Ian's first Alpine climbs.
with Steve Sykes, Mick Ward, Ian Freebie
Falko 1 Jul, 1980 Lead O/S Al was suffering from the altitude higher up.
with Al W.
Al was suffering from the altitude higher up.
with Al W.
Brian Wilderspin ?Jul, 1980 Solo O/S
DonnyDave 15 Jul, 1979 AltLd
with Ray Banks, Marilyn Banks
with Ray Banks, Marilyn Banks
Andy Chubb 2 Jul, 1977 AltLd Bivvied on Summit
with Pete Coghill
Bivvied on Summit
with Pete Coghill
Steve Bell ??, 1977 -
Derek Ryden 14 Aug, 1975 AltLd O/S
with John Kirk
with John Kirk
barksmo ?Jul, 1975 AltLd
Steve Woollard 17 Aug, 1974 Lead
with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
with Andrew Huch, Malcolm Parker
Bolt Phobia 17 Aug, 1974 AltLd
with Steve Woollard
with Steve Woollard
168 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
Votes cast 12
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set