700m.

Rockfax Description
III, 700m, 5 - 7 hours. This is a great route for any mid-grade alpinist. The technical difficulties are low but the exposure is breathtaking and confidence in your cramponing is essential.
Approach - From the Helbronner lift, cross the Col des Flambeaux and descend northwest to pass under the Aiguille de Toule. Turn west and gently ascend, passing under the North Face of the Tour Ronde to reach the huge glacial plateau beneath the Arête de la Brenva. The scenery here is some of the best in the Alps and should only increase excitement levels. The plateau can also be reached from the Aiguille du Midi by descending to the Pyramide du Tacul and climbing past the Pointe Adolphe Rey and Grand Capucin. The area around these summits can be heavily crevassed and this approach is an hour longer than approaching from Helbronner.
The Arête de la Brenva looks imposing but the climb to the Bivouac de la Fourche is straightforward enough in good conditions. There are numerous snow couloirs leading to the ridge crest so ensure that you choose the correct one! When approaching the foot of the couloirs, the one you are looking for is to the right of the serac, and the two large, distinctive rock teeth, and to the left of the Col de la Fourche.
The bergschrund often requires the use of two ice axes, but in anything other than very poor conditions should present few problems for a competent team. Climb the snow couloir with sections up to 50 degrees to reach the ridge. The hut is 10m on the right - two hours from Helbronner, 3 hours from the Aiguille du Midi. The view is staggering.
It is also possible to climb the route direct from the Rifugio Torino by climbing the prominent snow couloir which joins the ridge just after the two small towers near the Bivouac de la Fourche. This has the advantage that you don't need to carry a stove and food but makes the day longer and means that you don't get to spend a night in the amazingly positionned Bivouac de la Fourche.
1) From the hut, follow the ridge crest, turning two small towers on the right, until it steepens at a buttress.
2) Climb this to the left of the crest via a snow/mixed gully to regain the ridge and follow it on the snowy crest.
3) Although technically straightforward, the section on the crest is incredibly exposed and features the legendary and often photographed traverse across the 'demi-lune' just before Pointe de l'Androsace.
4) 4c. Turn the Pointe de L'Androsace on the left (Brenva) side and return to the ridge at a small notch. Carry on for 10m along broken rocky ground and descend slightly on the Brenva side to reach a short, awkward crack (4c) which leads to a mixed ramp (or bare rock in late season), which gradually leads you back onto the ridge crest.
5) Follow the ridge crest without any significant obstacles until just below the point where the ridge meets the northwest shoulder of Mont Maudit.
6) Traverse onto the Chamonix side and climb a snowy gully to reach the shoulder and summit ridge.
7) Follow this via an exposed, snowy traverse to the summit of Mont Maudit. The final ridge is spectacular and a fitting end to one of the finest routes in the Alps.
Descent - Retreat from the hut is possible via the line of approach and there are some fixed anchors in the approach couloir to allow sections to be abseiled. Retreat from the route itself would be problematic.
From the summit of Mont Maudit, descend the West Face to join the Trois Monts Route (page §§§) from summit of Mont Blanc. Descend this to the Aiguille du Midi via the Col du Mont Maudit and Mont Blanc du Tacul. The descent of Mont Maudit's west face to reach the Trois Monts Route is only 100m long but it can be icy so taking along an Abalakov threader to create abseil anchors isn't a bad idea. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Classic ridge traverse. Also called 'Frontier Ridge'.
The approach to the Col de la Fourche Hut can be in very bad nick and as an alternative, from the Torino Hut pass the snow/ice slope that leads up to the Col de la Fourche Hut and climb the snow/ice slope a bit further along (closer to the summit) that leads to the ridge.

From the Col de la Fourche Hut, follow the ridge and snowy snow slope to the snowy ridge that leads under Pt. de l'Androsace. 50 meter descending ice traverse to the left then contour around to snow gully that leads up towards skyline. Up through a bit of mixed climbing, right then back to the left on to the snowy cornice leading up the NE Ridge to the summit tower.

M. von Kuffner with A. Burgener, J Furrer and porter 02/Jul/1887

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Alpine Dreamz

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
BenCollis 11 Jul Lead Not possible to reach bivuac, no snow in gully. Direct approached from Torino, stuck to the right and there was decent snow in that gully. However, the bergschrund is not well covered and was already melting at 5:3am. The rest of the route is great, just follow the polish. Best alpine route to date for me. Torino to Midi in 9:30hrs.
Not possible to reach bivuac, no snow in gully. Direct approached from Torino, stuck to the right and there was decent snow in that gully. However, the bergschrund is not well covered and was already melting at 5:3am. The rest of the route is great, just follow the polish. Best alpine route to date for me. Torino to Midi in 9:30hrs.
Ian Carey ?? -
SJPowderham1 7 Aug, 2018 -
Dougbart 3 Aug, 2018 AltLd Approach gully not complete and very loose. I would not recommend if you are behind other party's. We were first on rute but still unpleasant. An amazing rute. Finished over Mont Blanc.
with Adrian
Approach gully not complete and very loose. I would not recommend if you are behind other party's. We were first on rute but still unpleasant. An amazing rute. Finished over Mont Blanc.
with Adrian
Hidden 25 Jul, 2018 -
Hidden 16 Jul, 2018 -
Piglet69 11 Jul, 2018 2nd
niallsash 11 Jul, 2018 Lead Left Torino at 2.30am and got to Midi 3pm. All in good nick. Blowing abit only had one previous day up high.
Left Torino at 2.30am and got to Midi 3pm. All in good nick. Blowing abit only had one previous day up high.
Rob Royle 10 Jul, 2018 2nd Started at 1am from the Torino hut with Eric, fantastic route!! Finished at the Midi lift at 10.30am
with Eric
Started at 1am from the Torino hut with Eric, fantastic route!! Finished at the Midi lift at 10.30am
with Eric
Matt Boyd 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
with Neil Dickson
with Neil Dickson
Roberttaylor 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd Moved together, finished over Mont Blanc and down the Gouter. Route in good condition, nice crisp snow.
Moved together, finished over Mont Blanc and down the Gouter. Route in good condition, nice crisp snow.
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf
7toes 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Stuart M
with Stuart M
Oliver Smaje ?Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Rob Taylor
with Rob Taylor
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
jakeepictv 27 Aug, 2017 -
DaveThexton 20 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Jake, Tom Redmond, Matt Groom
with Jake, Tom Redmond, Matt Groom
calumhicks 18 Aug, 2017 - Almost no snow on route. Lot's of choss and loose rock atm which made progress slow. Getting up onto the ridge for the bivi hut was the hardest part. Still an excellent route however
with Jack
Almost no snow on route. Lot's of choss and loose rock atm which made progress slow. Getting up onto the ridge for the bivi hut was the hardest part. Still an excellent route however
with Jack
Hidden 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd
steve_gibbs 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Scott Anderson 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd What a long route. Not in condition at all. No snowy ridge after the Demi Lune, all mixed loose choss. Got lost and did the big rock peak to the right of the ridge which cost us lots of time. Rather than summit, tired and hungry, we bivi'd at 4000m and finished the following day.
What a long route. Not in condition at all. No snowy ridge after the Demi Lune, all mixed loose choss. Got lost and did the big rock peak to the right of the ridge which cost us lots of time. Rather than summit, tired and hungry, we bivi'd at 4000m and finished the following day.
Robbie Blease 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd Very dry conditions apart from demi lune which was brilliant! Finished before snow arête onto maudi because too dry.
Very dry conditions apart from demi lune which was brilliant! Finished before snow arête onto maudi because too dry.
Jake Chapman 6 Jul, 2017 2nd
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Stickle Tarn 2 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S 2am breakfast, 2:45 departure from Torino hut. The route was totally out of condition, really dry and any snow/ice was super soft. This resulted in a long days climbing, never an epic but very slow. Made it to the shoulder and abseiled down to the Col. I counted six abseil stances all around 50m apart and some in need of renewal ! We backed up and left some cord on the dodgy stances. Disappointing not to summit Mount Maudit. Must try the route again earlier in the season !
2am breakfast, 2:45 departure from Torino hut. The route was totally out of condition, really dry and any snow/ice was super soft. This resulted in a long days climbing, never an epic but very slow. Made it to the shoulder and abseiled down to the Col. I counted six abseil stances all around 50m apart and some in need of renewal ! We backed up and left some cord on the dodgy stances. Disappointing not to summit Mount Maudit. Must try the route again earlier in the season !
piken 28 Aug, 2016 - Early start from the midi. Past a tank like Boulder under grand cap. Very soft at the start- 20ft of steep soft ice snow slush. Once on the route conditions were mint. Climb route in crampons. Finished over MB and down to Les Houches which was nice. 13 hrs from midi to les houches
Early start from the midi. Past a tank like Boulder under grand cap. Very soft at the start- 20ft of steep soft ice snow slush. Once on the route conditions were mint. Climb route in crampons. Finished over MB and down to Les Houches which was nice. 13 hrs from midi to les houches
davkeo 16 Aug, 2016 Solo O/S Simul solo. Started at 2am from midi. Brought 1 axe & 2 would have made the ridge approach slope (150m) more enjoyable. Snow/ice was very good but lots of it being knocked down on us by parties above. One chunk hit me square in the balls. Clear night sky & no wind. Perfect snow conditions all the way to mount Blanc. Decended via the gouter route which is unpleasant. 14hrs total moving time. Decent took 4.5hrs of that and it was arduous.
Simul solo. Started at 2am from midi. Brought 1 axe & 2 would have made the ridge approach slope (150m) more enjoyable. Snow/ice was very good but lots of it being knocked down on us by parties above. One chunk hit me square in the balls. Clear night sky & no wind. Perfect snow conditions all the way to mount Blanc. Decended via the gouter route which is unpleasant. 14hrs total moving time. Decent took 4.5hrs of that and it was arduous.
Paul Collins 16 Aug, 2016 Solo
with davkeo
with davkeo
Richard Kendrick 16 Aug, 2016 Solo
with davkeo
with davkeo
mike.moss 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
benwmorgan 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2016 AltLd
bogpetre 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd dog
Matt Harmon 4 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Moved together for all, easier than expected
with ben coope, harry_lewis
Moved together for all, easier than expected
with ben coope, harry_lewis
bencoope 4 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 4 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Ben Coope, Matt Harmon
with Ben Coope, Matt Harmon
CameronH 4 Jul, 2016 -
elm 4 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Just Will 4 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Sep, 2015 -
QuentinSu 28 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
joelevanschamonix ??, 2015 -
joe_lancs 15 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 15 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 29 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Aug, 2014 -
simondunf 25 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S highlight of the trip
with caspar
highlight of the trip
with caspar
Hidden 25 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd
joelevanschamonix 8 Aug, 2014 - http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/08/11/kuffner-arete-mont-maudit-4465m/
with ndraper1, Tim Oliver
http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/08/11/kuffner-arete-mont-maudit-4465m/
with ndraper1, Tim Oliver
ndraper1 8 Aug, 2014 - Cosy night with 16 people in the fourche(!) 6hrs from hut to maudit summit, Tim and I continued to Mont Blanc(2hrs) and then reversed 3 Monts to the midi(5hrs). Huge day, amazing exposed ridge. Moved as a slick three for all of kuffner. Great conditions and biggest distance/altitude covered to date!
with Tim, Joel Evans
Cosy night with 16 people in the fourche(!) 6hrs from hut to maudit summit, Tim and I continued to Mont Blanc(2hrs) and then reversed 3 Monts to the midi(5hrs). Huge day, amazing exposed ridge. Moved as a slick three for all of kuffner. Great conditions and biggest distance/altitude covered to date!
with Tim, Joel Evans
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 AltLd
Tim Davies 26 Jun, 2014 Lead Bivouac empty and cold! Excellent track up the route. Moved together apart from one short pitch beneath Androsace. Absolutely knackered by Tacul. Not a route to underestimate and not an easy one to escape off either. A four star experience. Tower ridge on steroids?
Bivouac empty and cold! Excellent track up the route. Moved together apart from one short pitch beneath Androsace. Absolutely knackered by Tacul. Not a route to underestimate and not an easy one to escape off either. A four star experience. Tower ridge on steroids?
MSchobitz 22 Jun, 2014 Lead dnf Forecast was great, but we met whiteout conditions when we left the fourche bivy at 3:00am. Moved along the ridge very fast/efficiently, but bailed when the weather worsened and abbed off the route.
with drobin
Forecast was great, but we met whiteout conditions when we left the fourche bivy at 3:00am. Moved along the ridge very fast/efficiently, but bailed when the weather worsened and abbed off the route.
with drobin
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Si ?Aug, 2013 -
beckycoles ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
Jezzer 26 Jul, 2013 2nd From Torino hut with guide. 8h10m to Maudit summit. Did the Androsace tower to the right with a couple of harder rock moves and some interesting abseils
From Torino hut with guide. 8h10m to Maudit summit. Did the Androsace tower to the right with a couple of harder rock moves and some interesting abseils
Keith Lambley 12 Jul, 2013 -
with Kate R
with Kate R
HarryB 5 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Ali D 5 Jul, 2013 -
with HarryB
with HarryB
Hidden 2 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 -
Hidden 26 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Mike Hood 26 Jun, 2013 AltLd
jcw ??, 2013 -
Dave Searle ??, 2013 -
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
edek_w ??, 2013 -
walts4 ??, 2013 -
Hidden 30 Jul, 2012 -
jhw 22 Jul, 2012 Lead Perfect conditions and no routefinding difficulties although we had some problems when we tried an alternative route below Pointe de l'Androsace to get round a slow party in front. This cost us some time but we still made guidebook. Started from Fourche where we stayed the night before.
Perfect conditions and no routefinding difficulties although we had some problems when we tried an alternative route below Pointe de l'Androsace to get round a slow party in front. This cost us some time but we still made guidebook. Started from Fourche where we stayed the night before.
Ken Applegate 10 Jul, 2012 AltLd Spent night with 14 others in La Fourche Bivi Hut, which was cosy to say the least. Busy day on the ridge, but everyone moving at similar pace, so it all worked out fine. Abseiled to Col Maudit after difficulties, as weather was closing in fast.
with Scott Kirkhope
Spent night with 14 others in La Fourche Bivi Hut, which was cosy to say the least. Busy day on the ridge, but everyone moving at similar pace, so it all worked out fine. Abseiled to Col Maudit after difficulties, as weather was closing in fast.
with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd O/S
Chris Beck 30 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Hard approach to hut due to lots of black ice , a long but memorable day out with black/rotten ice and lots of loose rock due to warm conditions. JUST! got down to town thanks to the service car taking pity on two VERY! tired climbers racing up the midi arete just in time!...awesome!
Hard approach to hut due to lots of black ice , a long but memorable day out with black/rotten ice and lots of loose rock due to warm conditions. JUST! got down to town thanks to the service car taking pity on two VERY! tired climbers racing up the midi arete just in time!...awesome!
Hidden 14 Sep, 2011 AltLd dnf
Adam Booth 30 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with gowla
with gowla
gowla 30 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with adam booth
with adam booth
MikeLell 28 Aug, 2011 AltLd dnf Reached Fourche Bivouc in dark at 10pm knackered. Descended back to glacier using multiple abseils off a single 60 m rope after breakfast the following morning.
with Lee Harrison
Reached Fourche Bivouc in dark at 10pm knackered. Descended back to glacier using multiple abseils off a single 60 m rope after breakfast the following morning.
with Lee Harrison
Hidden 28 Aug, 2011 -
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 AltLd
jonnie3430 12 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S 2.45 from the hut to the ridge on Mont Maudit, excellent neve and tracks from earlier parties (we left an hour later (4,) avoided the hut faff and had a bit more light for the route. Chuffed.
with Nina
2.45 from the hut to the ridge on Mont Maudit, excellent neve and tracks from earlier parties (we left an hour later (4,) avoided the hut faff and had a bit more light for the route. Chuffed.
with Nina
Pete Graham ?Aug, 2011 -
with malx
with malx
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
nvalentine760 ?Aug, 2011 -
benclimbing ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Classic, but a knackering day out!
Classic, but a knackering day out!
Drew M ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
d_meacher ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Edvin Mellergard
with Edvin Mellergard
tumbling wizard ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
with Drew M
with Drew M
gilmour_789 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with RKernan
with RKernan
RKernan 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
HimTiggins 15 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with tebs
with tebs
Hidden 14 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Ben Briggs 12 Jul, 2011 Solo
with Jon
with Jon
Jack Loftus 4 Jul, 2011 - moved together for the whole route, Epic.
moved together for the whole route, Epic.
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Petarghh 4 Jul, 2011 - Awesome !
Awesome !
tskelhon ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with chris davis
with chris davis
dtilly ?Jul, 2011 - Arrive at the Fourche bivi hut with just two beds left for us, at 10pm. Fairly arduous walk in. Left for the Brenva Spur at 2am. Fortunately our ropes got snagged and wouldn't pull down after the abseil. A huge serac carved off down the Gussefldt Couloir so we promptly sacked it off and headed back up to the ridge to do the Kuffner. Started finally about 4.30-5am on the ridge. Snow coniditions we sugary and solid placements were impossible at times. Very long day out! At the top we didnt do the summit as it was 5pm and headed down. There are fixed abseil points to rap down Maudit to the usually well trodden path up to the Tacul. You can also down climb this section if careful. Got back to the Midi station at 7.05pm. Amazingly the lift was still running. Thank god! Guide book time of 5-7 hours is not realisitic if conditions are warm. We were both fit and climbing well and it took us 12 hours from hut to top out under Mt Maudit. Amazing day out though.
Arrive at the Fourche bivi hut with just two beds left for us, at 10pm. Fairly arduous walk in. Left for the Brenva Spur at 2am. Fortunately our ropes got snagged and wouldn't pull down after the abseil. A huge serac carved off down the Gussefldt Couloir so we promptly sacked it off and headed back up to the ridge to do the Kuffner. Started finally about 4.30-5am on the ridge. Snow coniditions we sugary and solid placements were impossible at times. Very long day out! At the top we didnt do the summit as it was 5pm and headed down. There are fixed abseil points to rap down Maudit to the usually well trodden path up to the Tacul. You can also down climb this section if careful. Got back to the Midi station at 7.05pm. Amazingly the lift was still running. Thank god! Guide book time of 5-7 hours is not realisitic if conditions are warm. We were both fit and climbing well and it took us 12 hours from hut to top out under Mt Maudit. Amazing day out though.
alkira ??, 2011 -
masa-alpin 13 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S Completed in 3.5 hours from Fourche Bivouac, even though we were slowed down by offering a help to a Bulgarian pair stranded in the steep rocky summit ridge. Our 2.5 hours effort to make a trail on soft snow on the previous day well paid off. My best alpine experience ever!
with Max C
Completed in 3.5 hours from Fourche Bivouac, even though we were slowed down by offering a help to a Bulgarian pair stranded in the steep rocky summit ridge. Our 2.5 hours effort to make a trail on soft snow on the previous day well paid off. My best alpine experience ever!
with Max C
Hidden 26 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Matt Bennett 26 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S 5hrs
with Lewis Grey
5hrs
with Lewis Grey
Ally Baba 21 Aug, 2010 Solo O/S Amazing route. 1st 4000er
Amazing route. 1st 4000er
stuart34 11 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Kim Ladiges
with Kim Ladiges
carl_123 ?Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ?Aug, 2010 -
with andrew marshall
with andrew marshall
yellow ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
LozM 21 Jul, 2010 - Did not finish. Caught in storm on ascent to La Fourche Biv. hut. Had to wait in hut for two days before retreating due to bad weather.
with Mark J
Did not finish. Caught in storm on ascent to La Fourche Biv. hut. Had to wait in hut for two days before retreating due to bad weather.
with Mark J
mark_chal 7 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
Cardi 7 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Started at the Fourche. Approach gully to the hut a bit dodgy. Superb day, good snow conditions on the whole. Finished on Mont Maudit.
with Mike Wild, Mark Vet
Started at the Fourche. Approach gully to the hut a bit dodgy. Superb day, good snow conditions on the whole. Finished on Mont Maudit.
with Mike Wild, Mark Vet
dannyboy83 ?Jul, 2010 -
with Floris
with Floris
Ben Briggs ?Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Brendan
with Brendan
thebigeasy ??, 2010 -
Hidden 16 Aug, 2009 2nd
Hidden 6 Aug, 2009 -
davepc ?Aug, 2009 AltLd dnf
JonHarvey 29 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Best ridge I've ever climbed, superb!
Best ridge I've ever climbed, superb!
Hidden 27 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams 26 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
andyinglis 26 Jul, 2009 - Great route. Pity bout the cramped Fourche experience!
with Neil Adams and Ross Barnes
Great route. Pity bout the cramped Fourche experience!
with Neil Adams and Ross Barnes
Rob84 14 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Chris James
with Chris James
Ross Barnes ?Jul, 2009 -
with Andy I, Neil A
with Andy I, Neil A
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 -
Cham32 ??, 2009 - climbed from the Torino - left at 2am - summit section lovely - summitted at 12.30
climbed from the Torino - left at 2am - summit section lovely - summitted at 12.30
Hidden 19 Aug, 2008 2nd
stevepotter 14 Aug, 2008 -
with Andy T
with Andy T
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
blouise ?Aug, 2008 -
with James Gordon
with James Gordon
robertporter ?Aug, 2008 -
Hidden 28 Jul, 2008 AltLd rpt
Misha 22 Jul, 2008 Solo Got last lift up to the Midi to go to the Fourche Bivouac for the night and realised had forgotten the rope, so turned into a solo! Excellent conditions though a bit windy. Unfortunately the alitude got the better of me and I started slowing down, so decided to descend from a subsidiary summit not far from Mt Maudit, while Art carried on to the summit and caught me up on the way back. Left hut at 6.50am and I started descending at 10.30am, though didn't get to the Midi till 2pm as was taking it easy. Altitude is such a pain!
Got last lift up to the Midi to go to the Fourche Bivouac for the night and realised had forgotten the rope, so turned into a solo! Excellent conditions though a bit windy. Unfortunately the alitude got the better of me and I started slowing down, so decided to descend from a subsidiary summit not far from Mt Maudit, while Art carried on to the summit and caught me up on the way back. Left hut at 6.50am and I started descending at 10.30am, though didn't get to the Midi till 2pm as was taking it easy. Altitude is such a pain!
Hidden 10 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Neil D ?Jul, 2008 Lead O/S + Robert Porter
+ Robert Porter
Joubert ?Jul, 2008 -
Hidden 20 Jun, 2008 Solo
springaren ?Jun, 2008 2nd
with Christian
with Christian
James Gordon ??, 2008 -
Hidden 15 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Sep, 2007 AltLd
smollett ?Aug, 2007 -
Jules C ?Aug, 2007 -
jl 31 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S in 5 hours
in 5 hours
lazyhopkins 31 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Jon Lynch
with Jon Lynch
Stefan 14 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Dave
with Dave
Bristoldave ??, 2007 -
with Rich
with Rich
RobScotland 29 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
with jonnyb
with jonnyb
bandersnatch ?Jul, 2006 Lead
with Mairi B
with Mairi B
feilx ?Sep, 2005 -
with Ian Lovatt
with Ian Lovatt
Yyonnx 19 Jul, 2005 - Great climb, white out conditions coming over from the Aig. Midi had us sitting on our packs trying to get a fix where we were when finally the mist parted and Doog saw the north face of Tour Ronde which got us orientated. The climb up to the Col de la Fourche Hut was in great condition due to a 10cm snow fall the night before and was some of the best couloir climbing we did all summer. The hut was great, eight other people, beautiful setting. The climb was in good condition with the right amount of snow. The descending ice traverse under Pt. Androsace was the sketchiest bit and it wasn't bad as we protected the traverse with three ice screws. The upper parts were good and by the time we reached the col the wind was howling around our helmets, ready to head down. 6 hours to the col from the hut.
with Doog
Great climb, white out conditions coming over from the Aig. Midi had us sitting on our packs trying to get a fix where we were when finally the mist parted and Doog saw the north face of Tour Ronde which got us orientated. The climb up to the Col de la Fourche Hut was in great condition due to a 10cm snow fall the night before and was some of the best couloir climbing we did all summer. The hut was great, eight other people, beautiful setting. The climb was in good condition with the right amount of snow. The descending ice traverse under Pt. Androsace was the sketchiest bit and it wasn't bad as we protected the traverse with three ice screws. The upper parts were good and by the time we reached the col the wind was howling around our helmets, ready to head down. 6 hours to the col from the hut.
with Doog
sgl ?Jun, 2005 AltLd
with Jo and Konnie
with Jo and Konnie
Hidden ?Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 17 Sep, 2004 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Sep, 2004 Lead
with David Horwood
with David Horwood
Hidden 8 Mar, 2003 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 2 Aug, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Tim Rook
with Tim Rook
timmy-ts ??, 2001 -
nickdonohue 2 Sep, 2000 AltLd mostly moving together. difficult conditions when we did this, fresh snow and delicate cornices; 1 bivi on ridge in stormy conditions
with Mark McCarthy
mostly moving together. difficult conditions when we did this, fresh snow and delicate cornices; 1 bivi on ridge in stormy conditions
with Mark McCarthy
bandersnatch ?Jul, 1999 Lead
Jim Walton 6 Aug, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Ed Cartwright
with Ed Cartwright
Hidden 15 Aug, 1997 Lead
Hidden ??, 1997 -
Andy Clark ??, 1997 -
with Burnsie
with Burnsie
Michael ?Aug, 1996 -
bobelvedere 24 Jul, 1995 Solo
with Jan Mathorne, Henrik Jessen Hansen
with Jan Mathorne, Henrik Jessen Hansen
crossleysm 7 Jul, 1995 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths ?Aug, 1993 -
with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon
with Paul Tucker, Phil Kendon
Hidden ?Aug, 1993 AltLd
Tim Sparrow ?Aug, 1993 - Marvellous route. Hut a tad crowded - 24 of us. A few divvied outside too. I lay on the bench. Awoke to a disgruntling noise, another Brit slumped comfortably but cold and damp on the snow pile in the corner.
with ChrisJD
Marvellous route. Hut a tad crowded - 24 of us. A few divvied outside too. I lay on the bench. Awoke to a disgruntling noise, another Brit slumped comfortably but cold and damp on the snow pile in the corner.
with ChrisJD
Simon4 ?Jul, 1992 -
with Wayne Horsfall
with Wayne Horsfall
aged_ape 18 May, 1992 AltLd O/S
with Rob B
with Rob B
Pete_Frost ?Jul, 1991 AltLd O/S Route was in good nick and so was I, despite having to go look for my second axe which I dropped on the way to the hut. Getting over the bergschrund to the hut was the hardest bit. Best alpine route to date.
with Stuart Turnbull
Route was in good nick and so was I, despite having to go look for my second axe which I dropped on the way to the hut. Getting over the bergschrund to the hut was the hardest bit. Best alpine route to date.
with Stuart Turnbull
frost ?Jul, 1991 AltLd
with Stone
with Stone
Hidden ?Jul, 1989 -
Hidden ??, 1986 -
John Marsland ?Aug, 1983 -
with Andrew
with Andrew
granitbahn ?Jul, 1971 AltLd
oldmanofmow ??, 1961 -
195 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
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Low D-
Votes cast 25
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High 4c
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Votes cast 1
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set