Rockfax Description
16m. One of the easier hard classics of the crag - a great climb, devious but logical and interesting throughout. Start up the easy ramp then gain the hanging groove and climb it boldly to the break under the roof. Traverse right - plenty of gear but pumpy - to the slot in the roof and finish with a typical Northumbrian exit.
A Left-hand Exit is a cop-out at E3 5b and a Direct Finish is a harrowing E5 5c but misses out the best part of the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A dramatic route that is considerably better than it's crabwise shuffling would suggest. Climb the bold shallow scoop, the fingery and varied break, and final gutbusting pull over with continuous interest. Take anything from Zeros and Peenuts to large cams!

Ticklists

Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Rockfax Northern England Top 50, Fairly Safe, Quality Northumberland Extremes, Selected county classics- mainly E4/5

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
C coldwell-storry 17 Aug Lead β
Hidden 10 May Lead RP
Jmpollard 20 Oct, 2018 Lead Psyched! Had to escape off to the left first time because I couldn't justify heading off on the traverse without any good gear, but watched some lads do it and borrowed some of their gear for the lead. Second go, no issues, climbing is easy you just have to keep your head. Also snuck a look at the top hold so pretty far from onsight but great fun anyway.
with Hamish, Sam Marks
Psyched! Had to escape off to the left first time because I couldn't justify heading off on the traverse without any good gear, but watched some lads do it and borrowed some of their gear for the lead. Second go, no issues, climbing is easy you just have to keep your head. Also snuck a look at the top hold so pretty far from onsight but great fun anyway.
with Hamish, Sam Marks
JoshRawson 22 Aug, 2018 Lead β Think I got a few too many tips for an onsight but I really do not care, this is an amazing climb! I nearly died I was so pumped and the rests are marginal at best. That top out is pretty disgusting also, pumped out and using your body for friction to roll onto the top! Climbed without the power of creatine Excellent day for me and Richard, a day I won't forget!
with Rjennis
Think I got a few too many tips for an onsight but I really do not care, this is an amazing climb! I nearly died I was so pumped and the rests are marginal at best. That top out is pretty disgusting also, pumped out and using your body for friction to roll onto the top! Climbed without the power of creatine Excellent day for me and Richard, a day I won't forget!
with Rjennis
Rjennis 22 Aug, 2018 2nd
Skotch85 15 Jun, 2018 Lead RP One of the best lines I ever climbed. Serious in character. Caution and the right gear important. Did it second go after I decked on it last March on the onsight, thus super happy about being able to commit and get this beast.
with donwito
One of the best lines I ever climbed. Serious in character. Caution and the right gear important. Did it second go after I decked on it last March on the onsight, thus super happy about being able to commit and get this beast.
with donwito
Hidden 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 20 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
James Oakes 20 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Murray64 24 Jun, 2017 Lead β
with Phlip
with Phlip
smollett 15 Apr, 2017 2nd
with Andy W
with Andy W
Hidden 15 Apr, 2017 Lead β
Tim Blake 8 Mar, 2017 Lead
hugo glover ??, 2017 Lead O/S
with Cas, Smith42
with Cas, Smith42
Hugobristol 28 Oct, 2016 Lead β Full value beta off Alex with all the gear still in! Quite pumpy for someone with no fitness!
with blaza1
Full value beta off Alex with all the gear still in! Quite pumpy for someone with no fitness!
with blaza1
blaza1 28 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 11 Sep, 2016 Lead β This must be one of the best rock features in the country! So chuffed to get it first try! Had a sneaky peek at the finishing holds so I can't claim the on-sight. Was a bit surprised at how poor the gear was at the top of the scoop, so didn't bother with them just cracked on to the next piece which was a big cam that also left a lot to be desired! The first bit of pro I was happy with was below the finishing notch, and my arms were screaming by that point so I just chucked it in and cracked on, thankfully it went really well. Defo one of my favourite routes to date!
This must be one of the best rock features in the country! So chuffed to get it first try! Had a sneaky peek at the finishing holds so I can't claim the on-sight. Was a bit surprised at how poor the gear was at the top of the scoop, so didn't bother with them just cracked on to the next piece which was a big cam that also left a lot to be desired! The first bit of pro I was happy with was below the finishing notch, and my arms were screaming by that point so I just chucked it in and cracked on, thankfully it went really well. Defo one of my favourite routes to date!
AxelC 22 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
slapperv6 2 Jun, 2016 Lead
with Joco
with Joco
Hidden 10 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
Cassidy 10 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
salix 16 Aug, 2015 Lead β Been a route I've wanted to do for ages. Fantastic. No beta on the traverse, but had watched a pal on left hand exit, and walked up to the top to look at finishing holds. Getting out over the lip was a touch and go experience.
with Frazer
Been a route I've wanted to do for ages. Fantastic. No beta on the traverse, but had watched a pal on left hand exit, and walked up to the top to look at finishing holds. Getting out over the lip was a touch and go experience.
with Frazer
HaddRoots 1 Aug, 2015 Lead RP
with Witold
with Witold
donwito 1 Aug, 2015 2nd rpt
Hidden 23 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
hamer89 6 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Sooo good, classic northumberland
Sooo good, classic northumberland
D.Russell 28 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S First E4 onsight...
First E4 onsight...
donwito 23 Nov, 2014 Lead RP Amazing route!
Amazing route!
HaddRoots 23 Nov, 2014 2nd rpt
HaddRoots 25 Oct, 2014 2nd dnf
stuardo 5 Oct, 2014 2nd O/S
Julian Cooper 5 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
with Stuart Knott
with Stuart Knott
pipof747 19 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Ross Kirkland 5 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with David Kirkland
with David Kirkland
samwillo 24 Mar, 2014 Lead
malinkvist 23 Mar, 2014 2nd dog
Smelly Fox 19 Nov, 2013 2nd Pumpfest!
with Fiend
Pumpfest!
with Fiend
Shea 22 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Really good climbing, cleaning it by myself was fun! Glad I didn't lose the top out after all that effort, had some magnificent rope drag
with ieuanr
Really good climbing, cleaning it by myself was fun! Glad I didn't lose the top out after all that effort, had some magnificent rope drag
with ieuanr
Hidden 20 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
Hidden 26 May, 2013 Lead O/S
cobes 5 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Trevera 13 Apr, 2013 Lead first E4 onsight. Pumpy but no single hard move
with Adrianw
first E4 onsight. Pumpy but no single hard move
with Adrianw
Adrianw 6 Apr, 2013 2nd
with Trevera
with Trevera
LRob 3 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 2 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Nice architectural line.
Nice architectural line.
Adamski1986 2 Mar, 2013 2nd dnf Need to work on my crossovers to get the traverse cleanly, Didnt have the strength to pull through it today!
with Richard Gage
Need to work on my crossovers to get the traverse cleanly, Didnt have the strength to pull through it today!
with Richard Gage
Mike Goldthorp ?Mar, 2013 Sent
Ri ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Matt Harle 24 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
with Matt Gibbs
with Matt Gibbs
tyler836 11 Nov, 2012 2nd dog
with Graham McGrath
with Graham McGrath
Hidden 11 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Nov, 2012 2nd rpt
robertmichaellovell 13 Oct, 2012 Lead 2nd go from the ground - top out defeated the 1st attempt
with a_hein
2nd go from the ground - top out defeated the 1st attempt
with a_hein
a_hein 13 Oct, 2012 2nd
elCapitano 6 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S
with Patch
with Patch
Adam Lincoln 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
apollo18 8 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S Fantastic route. Pumpy but doable. Finish was a bit of a grovel.
with dominic jeff
Fantastic route. Pumpy but doable. Finish was a bit of a grovel.
with dominic jeff
PeteH 28 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S So chuffed to get this, haven't fought so hard and not fallen off in a while! Climbed first section up to the break up and down about six times before committing to the reach right, and took two goes at the top-out - evil.
So chuffed to get this, haven't fought so hard and not fallen off in a while! Climbed first section up to the break up and down about six times before committing to the reach right, and took two goes at the top-out - evil.
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 Lead β
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
NDD 18 Mar, 2012 Lead β Pre placed Gear
Pre placed Gear
roberto18 22 Oct, 2011 Lead Great climb, and a lot scarier than I expected
with ewan russell
Great climb, and a lot scarier than I expected
with ewan russell
Ewan Russell 22 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S ended up pulling on berts ropes after faffing for ages on the top out and him being in the way slightly. not sure if I would have flashed it though.
ended up pulling on berts ropes after faffing for ages on the top out and him being in the way slightly. not sure if I would have flashed it though.
Hidden 13 Sep, 2011 2nd dnf
phil64 27 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S fantastic
fantastic
Hidden 25 Aug, 2010 Lead dog
Hidden 25 Aug, 2010 2nd
odox 25 Aug, 2010 2nd dog I'll be back.
I'll be back.
mattyork2 25 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf Got up to the break but could not find any gear that I truste in - thought I had already done the scary bit?! Downclimbed to the floor. Think some offset small nuts might do the trick next time.
with RuthC
Got up to the break but could not find any gear that I truste in - thought I had already done the scary bit?! Downclimbed to the floor. Think some offset small nuts might do the trick next time.
with RuthC
Hidden 7 May, 2010 2nd dog
petegunn 7 May, 2010 Lead Tired arms on the final move ment that i sort of rolled onto the top sideways!
Tired arms on the final move ment that i sort of rolled onto the top sideways!
Hidden 2 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
graham lawrie ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with Stuart Cameron
with Stuart Cameron
markalmack 4 Oct, 2009 Lead β
with gcap
with gcap
Hidden 4 Oct, 2009 2nd dog
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 Lead RP
buzby78 19 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S Absolute classic!
with Al
Absolute classic!
with Al
jeffmcd56 ??, 2009 Lead O/S
mshorter 14 Jun, 2008 Lead β
with alex
with alex
akhughes 8 May, 2008 Lead rpt blow onsight when I slid back off the top when I'd aready pulled over. GUTTED!!!!
blow onsight when I slid back off the top when I'd aready pulled over. GUTTED!!!!
Hidden ?Dec, 2007 TR O/S
Chad123 1 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S Excellent climbing, pumpy but has good rests along the way. Crux is probably the very last move!
with Viv
Excellent climbing, pumpy but has good rests along the way. Crux is probably the very last move!
with Viv
Hidden 14 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Apr, 2006 2nd O/S
jim robertson ??, 2006 -
ali_robb ?Mar, 2005 Lead O/S
mgeek ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Graham Doig
with Graham Doig
whispering nic ??, 2004 2nd
with malc davies
with malc davies
Roget ?Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
with jim, baccy, jon
with jim, baccy, jon
gypsy3006 ?Jun, 2002 Lead superb classic , worth the years of practice :-)
superb classic , worth the years of practice :-)
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead O/S
TallAndyC 8 Apr, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 1999 Lead
Hidden 19 Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
JDC ?Apr, 1998 2nd
Hidden ?Aug, 1995 Lead O/S
UKB Shark ??, 1995 Lead β
with Geordie
with Geordie
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24 Apr, 1994 Lead
mattnuttall 7 Apr, 1994 Lead O/S
with Chris H (SCUM)_
with Chris H (SCUM)_
Rich Kirby 7 Sep, 1992 Lead O/S
Evoman ?Apr, 1992 Solo
with Andy
with Andy
FATBOYFAT ??, 1992 Lead O/S
with Dave Henderson
with Dave Henderson
Neil McA 18 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
with Beak 2, Beak 1.
with Beak 2, Beak 1.
Steve Crowe 4 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S My first E4 lead
with karin
My first E4 lead
with karin
gme 1 Jan, 1990 -
Dave Musgrove 28 Aug, 1989 Lead O/S Superb pitch!
with Kim Greenald
Superb pitch!
with Kim Greenald
andybirtwistle 29 Jun, 1988 Lead
with Steve Roberts
with Steve Roberts
Bruce Kerr 30 Jun, 1987 2nd
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
auldscotal ??, 1984 2nd dnf Failed on last move over the lip at the top - just ran out of puff! Didn't have a guidebook so no idea of the grade - Des cruised it.
with Des Rubens
Failed on last move over the lip at the top - just ran out of puff! Didn't have a guidebook so no idea of the grade - Des cruised it.
with Des Rubens
Hidden 3 Apr, 1983 TR
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set