Rockfax Description
16m. One of the easier hard classics of the crag - a great climb, devious but logical and interesting throughout. Start up the easy ramp then gain the hanging groove and climb it boldly to the break under the roof. Traverse right - plenty of gear but pumpy - to the slot in the roof and finish with a typical Northumbrian exit.
A Left-hand Exit is a cop-out at E3 5b and a Direct Finish is a harrowing E5 5c but misses out the best part of the route. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A dramatic route that is considerably better than it's crabwise shuffling would suggest. Climb the bold shallow scoop, the fingery and varied break, and final gutbusting pull over with continuous interest. Take anything from Zeros and Peenuts to large cams!

Ticklists: Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Rockfall Northern England top 50, Selected county classics- mainly E4/5.

Hidden 28/Aug Lead O/S
James Oakes 20/Aug Lead O/S
Murray64 24/Jun Lead β
with Phlip
smollett 15/Apr 2nd
with Andy W
Smith42 15/Apr Lead β

Led on Hugo's gear.

with Cas
Tim Blake 08/Mar Lead
Hugobristol 28/Oct/16 Lead β

Full value beta off Alex with all the gear still in! Quite pumpy for someone with no fitness!

with blaza1
blaza1 28/Oct/16 Lead O/S
Bloke on a Rope 11/Sep/16 Lead β

This must be one of the best rock features in the country! So chuffed to get it first try! Had a sneaky peek at the finishing holds so I can't claim the on-sight. Was a bit surprised at how poor the gear was at the top of the scoop, so didn't bother with them just cracked on to the next piece which was a big cam that also left a lot to be desired! The first bit of pro I was happy with was below the finishing notch, and my arms were screaming by that point so I just chucked it in and cracked on, thankfully it went really well. Defo one of my favourite routes to date!

with Matt
AxelC 22/Jun/16 Lead O/S
slapperv6 02/Jun/16 Lead
with Joco
Hidden 10/Apr/16 2nd dog
Cassidy 10/Apr/16 Lead O/S
salix 16/Aug/15 Lead β

Been a route I've wanted to do for ages. Fantastic. No beta on the traverse, but had watched a pal on left hand exit, and walked up to the top to look at finishing holds. Getting out over the lip was a touch and go experience.

with Frazer
HaddRoots 01/Aug/15 Lead RP
with Witold
donwito 01/Aug/15 2nd rpt
with Iain
Hidden 23/Mar/15 Lead O/S
D.Russell 28/Feb/15 Lead O/S

First E4 onsight...

with Mike
donwito 23/Nov/14 Lead RP

Amazing route!

with Iain
HaddRoots 23/Nov/14 2nd rpt
HaddRoots 25/Oct/14 2nd dnf
Julian Cooper 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Stuart Knott
Ross Kirkland 05/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with David Kirkland
samwillo 24/Mar/14 Lead
malinkvist 23/Mar/14 2nd dog
Smelly Fox 19/Nov/13 2nd


Shea 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Really good climbing, cleaning it by myself was fun! Glad I didn't lose the top out after all that effort, had some magnificent rope drag

with Ieuan
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd dog
Jordan B 26/May/13 Lead O/S

fun route straight after whipping off OTR

with Naomi Buys
cobes 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Trevera 13/Apr/13 Lead

first E4 onsight. Pumpy but no single hard move

Adrianw 06/Apr/13 2nd
LRob 03/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 02/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Nice architectural line.

Adamski1986 02/Mar/13 2nd dnf

Need to work on my crossovers to get the traverse cleanly, Didnt have the strength to pull through it today!

with Richard Gage
Mike Goldthorp ?/Mar/13 Sent
Ri ??/2013 Lead O/S
Matt Harle 24/Nov/12 Lead O/S
with Matt Gibbs
tyler836 11/Nov/12 2nd dog
with Graham McGrath
GraMc 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S

fantastic route, first E4 onsight and a very memorable experience

dj_brigham05 11/Nov/12 2nd rpt
robertmichaellovell 13/Oct/12 Lead

2nd go from the ground - top out defeated the 1st attempt

with Andy H
a_hein 13/Oct/12 2nd
elCapitano 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with Patch
Adam Lincoln 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Meg
stugreen75 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Fantastic route. Pumpy but doable. Finish was a bit of a grovel.

with dominic jeff
PeteH 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S

So chuffed to get this, haven't fought so hard and not fallen off in a while! Climbed first section up to the break up and down about six times before committing to the reach right, and took two goes at the top-out - evil.

Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead β
dj_brigham05 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Waited for years to onsight this. Great climbing. Can't believe I have shyed away from this for so long but managed to convince myself to climb On the Verge. Mega classic!

NDD 18/Mar/12 Lead β

Pre placed Gear

roberto18 22/Oct/11 Lead

Great climb, and a lot scarier than I expected

with ewan russell
Ewan Russell 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S

ended up pulling on berts ropes after faffing for ages on the top out and him being in the way slightly. not sure if I would have flashed it though.

Hidden 13/Sep/11 2nd dnf
phil64 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S


Hidden 25/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Aug/10 2nd
odox 25/Aug/10 2nd dog

I'll be back.

mattyork2 25/Aug/10 Lead dnf

Got up to the break but could not find any gear that I truste in - thought I had already done the scary bit?! Downclimbed to the floor. Think some offset small nuts might do the trick next time.

Hidden 07/May/10 2nd dog
petegunn 07/May/10 Lead

Tired arms on the final move ment that i sort of rolled onto the top sideways!

with Davina
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/10 Lead O/S
graham lawrie ??/2010 Lead O/S
markalmack 04/Oct/09 Lead β
Hidden 04/Oct/09 2nd dog
Hidden 05/Apr/09 Lead RP
buzby78 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S

Absolute classic!

with Al
jeffmcd56 ??/2009 Lead O/S
mshorter 14/Jun/08 Lead β
with alex
akhughes 08/May/08 Lead rpt

blow onsight when I slid back off the top when I'd aready pulled over. GUTTED!!!!

Hidden ?/Dec/07 TR O/S
Chad123 01/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Excellent climbing, pumpy but has good rests along the way. Crux is probably the very last move!

with Viv
Hidden 14/Apr/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/06 2nd O/S
jim robertson ??/2006 -
ali_robb ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
mgeek ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Graham Doig
whispering nic ??/2004 2nd
with malc davies
Roget ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with jim, baccy, jon
gypsy3006 ?/Jun/02 Lead

superb classic , worth the years of practice :-)

Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/99 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/98 Lead O/S
JDC ?/Apr/98 2nd
The Jazz Butcher ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Mike Rudden
ukb & bmc shark ??/1995 Lead β
Dave Musgrove Jnr 24/Apr/94 Lead
mattnuttall 07/Apr/94 Lead O/S
with Chris H (SCUM)_
Rich Kirby 07/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Evoman ?/Apr/92 Solo
with Andy
FATBOYFAT ??/1992 Lead O/S
with Dave Henderson
Steve Crowe 04/Aug/90 Lead O/S

My first E4 lead

with KM
gme 01/Jan/90 -
Dave Musgrove 28/Aug/89 Lead O/S

Superb pitch!

with Kim Greenald
andybirtwistle 29/Jun/88 Lead
with Steve Roberts
Bruce Kerr 30/Jun/87 2nd
with Perric Crellin
auldscotal ??/1984 2nd dnf

Failed on last move over the lip at the top - just ran out of puff! Didn't have a guidebook so no idea of the grade - Des cruised it.

with Des Rubens
Hidden 03/Apr/83 TR
Paul Clarke ??/1980 Lead
with Richard Kidd
43 users have this on their wishlist
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 21
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set