Rockfax Description
A beautiful wall pitch that gradually picks its way up the central face and culminates in a technical finish. Start at a right to left sloping ramp, 5m right of the start of Living Dead.
Take the straightforward gangway to a sloping ledge at 9m. Climb the steep wall above and slightly right on small positive holds past a slim overlap to a good ledge (small cam optional). Move up the steepening wall on diminishing holds to the final bolt, from where a very thin move gains a good hold and ledge just above, lower-off on the left. The top of the cliff can be gained via a short HVS 5a pitch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb easily to a ledge at about 8m. Climb past 3 bolts on the lower wall to a good break (old peg). Move up easily to good holds and a bolt. From here a sequence of about 10 moves leads with increasing difficulty to jugs, a ledge, and a two-bolt belay on the left

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20.

Josh Hadley 31/Aug/16 Lead dog
Stanners 01/Jul/16 Lead dog

Not a million miles away at all from getting this Onsight. Just needed a couple of feels for what crimp to use. Mega. Pure pleasure climbing up until the penultimate bolt.

with Fiend
Billg 05/Jun/16 Lead RP

A bit too hot for this wall today. Bailed and drove to cheddar

with Will Calvert
emdawes 14/May/16 Lead RP
will909 15/Mar/16 Lead RP
J1_TOV 15/Mar/16 Lead RP
Cheese Monkey 10/Feb/16 Lead dog
with Dave
Bristoldave ?/Feb/16 Lead RP

1st rp

chrisscutt 29/Dec/15 Lead RP
with lee
Bates 28/Oct/15 Lead RP

Nice sequence at the top, harder to read than living dead I thought.

with Andy Brice
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead dog
Trisha Murphy 10/May/15 Lead RP
afrosam 10/May/15 Lead RP
Caspian Johnson 11/Apr/15 Lead RP

Nice climbing

Garrouli 15/Nov/14 Lead RP
with Matt Williams
TomJ 29/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Ben
TomJ 22/Sep/14 TR dog

Minus the first and last clip (which are both a bit run-out) this is actually very nicely bolted -Autumn '14 project!

with Ben
Justin T 06/Jul/14 Lead dog

Spicy start on questionable rock to first bolt, onsight to the last bolt, hard rock to read.

with Nancy
NancyJones 06/Jul/14 TR dog
Hidden 08/Dec/13 TR RP
tobydunford 20/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Oli
drcorbasisgod 19/Sep/13 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Apr/13 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 15/Apr/13 2nd RP
EmilyElouise 14/Apr/13 TR dog
Hidden 14/Apr/13 Lead dog
Tom Brierley Gore 13/Sep/12 Lead RP

Nice, super grippy rock.

thomasadixon 13/Sep/12 Lead RP

Second go, damn fine climb.

Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 08/Aug/12 TR dog
Hidden 06/Aug/12 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 06/Aug/12 TR dog
ericinbristol 02/Aug/12 Lead RP

Ist redpoint try in the rain. Chossy start, high first bolt, snappy holds on the crux at the top, awkwardly placed belay. But a good route nonetheless.

with Johnny S
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead RP
Cailean Harker 23/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Nov/11 Lead β
colesy 19/Nov/11 Lead β
Paul Robertson 18/Nov/11 Lead RP

First F7 for ages - feels like a breakthrough.

with Mike Goldthorp
James Marshall 12/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Pete Shepherd
Mike_Hayes 10/Sep/11 Lead dnf
Mr Sparkle 10/Sep/11 TR dog

Hard crimpy finish ;)

Paul Robertson 23/Jun/11 Lead dog
guy xavier percival 23/Jun/11 Lead RP

Fairly straightforward to the penultimate bolt it then steepens and there is a tough short sequence to the top.

with paul
richsmithinbristol 11/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Pretty steady and then a blind, hard crux at the top.

Pippa 11/Jun/11 Lead RP

Last move move is tricky and hard to read, slipped off first go. Lovely rock

with Richard
Tomar 09/Jan/11 Lead RP

Got it on my 3rd visit.

Richard Hall 05/Dec/10 Lead RP

2nd go today. Have tried before a year or 2 ago. Brilliant route, not quite as good as the route to the left and a little easier.

with Howard
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead RP
Tomar 10/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 30/May/10 TR dnf
eddy-on-the-rocks 29/May/09 Lead RP
with Mark
Cowflinger 15/Nov/08 Lead RP
Hidden 11/May/08 Lead RP
_m.cox_ ?/May/08 Lead β
richsmithinbristol ?/May/08 Lead
with _m.cox_
Hidden 28/Jun/07 Lead RP
Marti999 16/Jun/07 Lead RP

now has 4 new stainless bolts, one of the best sports routes in the southwest

crimpaway 12/Nov/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/93 Lead β
Hidden 27/Jun/93 2nd
9 users have this on their wishlist
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Flashed (β)
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