Rockfax Description
A beautiful wall pitch that gradually picks its way up the central face and culminates in a technical finish. Start at a right to left sloping ramp, 5m right of the start of Living Dead.
Take the straightforward gangway to a sloping ledge at 9m. Climb the steep wall above and slightly right on small positive holds past a slim overlap to a good ledge (small cam optional). Move up the steepening wall on diminishing holds to the final bolt, from where a very thin move gains a good hold and ledge just above, lower-off on the left. The top of the cliff can be gained via a short HVS 5a pitch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb easily to a ledge at about 8m. Climb past 3 bolts on the lower wall to a good break (old peg). Move up easily to good holds and a bolt. From here a sequence of about 10 moves leads with increasing difficulty to jugs, a ledge, and a two-bolt belay on the left

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Kev Little 20 Oct Lead rpt
with aiyer
with aiyer
Hidden 15 Sep Lead dog
Hidden 19 Aug Lead RP
Eduardo Martinez 17 Aug Lead dnf Failed to onsight. Took me 20mins to work out how to get to the last bolt then spènt 5mins working out how to clip it because it was just out of reach from the logical clipping hold before giving up.
Failed to onsight. Took me 20mins to work out how to get to the last bolt then spènt 5mins working out how to clip it because it was just out of reach from the logical clipping hold before giving up.
Hidden 4 Jul TR dnf
Martina Gola 19 May Lead dog Pulled on the last quickdraw to clip. Hopefully next time!
Pulled on the last quickdraw to clip. Hopefully next time!
Hidden 20 Apr Lead RP
Pete Minaeian 31 Mar Lead G/U 2nd or 3rd top clip after the rest, head to the right of the sloping rail/arete thing to clip 2nd to top clip- thin sidepull, there is 2, use lower one. Last moves. left hand on shit layback crimp. right hand to weird sloper thumb lock thing that looks loose, left hand over to better hold. move feet and hit the top. all in the feet!
2nd or 3rd top clip after the rest, head to the right of the sloping rail/arete thing to clip 2nd to top clip- thin sidepull, there is 2, use lower one. Last moves. left hand on shit layback crimp. right hand to weird sloper thumb lock thing that looks loose, left hand over to better hold. move feet and hit the top. all in the feet!
Stephattwood 23 Mar Lead RP
igola 31 Dec, 2018 Lead dog
with Maria
with Maria
George Cox 28 Dec, 2018 Lead dnf Did all the moves up to the boulder problem at the end. Ended up traversing right to the arete and climbing up to the lower off
Did all the moves up to the boulder problem at the end. Ended up traversing right to the arete and climbing up to the lower off
WillAndrew 17 Nov, 2018 Lead RP
eddieclimb 12 May, 2018 Lead RP Close on the OS but the blindness got the better of me. Fluffed next go and did steady on 2nd RP. Nice wall climbing, enjoyable day...
with Jason Parker
Close on the OS but the blindness got the better of me. Fluffed next go and did steady on 2nd RP. Nice wall climbing, enjoyable day...
with Jason Parker
brices 4 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Nov, 2017 Lead β
Hidden 4 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
Holister 4 Nov, 2017 Lead β
quiffhanger 16 Jul, 2017 Lead β I think I've done either this is or Living Dead in the past but no recollection which one so claiming the flash...
with Rachel
I think I've done either this is or Living Dead in the past but no recollection which one so claiming the flash...
with Rachel
rhoslynfrugtniet 9 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Matt Helliker
with Matt Helliker
duncan 1 Jun, 2017 Lead RP First go, after working the top moves briefly. An old-school E5 6b with some nice new bolts. Soft 7b when you know the sequence but relatively hard if onsight and unchalked. Very enjoyable if you like vertical technical and crimpy climbing (and if you don't, what are you doing at Uphill?!).
with Fiend
First go, after working the top moves briefly. An old-school E5 6b with some nice new bolts. Soft 7b when you know the sequence but relatively hard if onsight and unchalked. Very enjoyable if you like vertical technical and crimpy climbing (and if you don't, what are you doing at Uphill?!).
with Fiend
patrickcd 31 May, 2017 Lead dog
just one more 31 May, 2017 Lead RP Great. Good crimping on rough rock
Great. Good crimping on rough rock
mikedevcole 9 Apr, 2017 Lead RP 2nd go but not sure it's valid as I finished rightwar after the last bolt. Didn't feel 7a+ that way.
2nd go but not sure it's valid as I finished rightwar after the last bolt. Didn't feel 7a+ that way.
Stuart William 9 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Cool. Hard sequence through the top. Probably ok once you have spotted the holds. Should have had a better effort at the flash but wasnt sure where I was going.
with J1_TOV
Cool. Hard sequence through the top. Probably ok once you have spotted the holds. Should have had a better effort at the flash but wasnt sure where I was going.
with J1_TOV
Tristan.Stricker 9 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Chickened out and went right at top. Direct seemed odd and too blind. Nowhere near as good as Living Dead.
with J1_TOV
Chickened out and went right at top. Direct seemed odd and too blind. Nowhere near as good as Living Dead.
with J1_TOV
J1_TOV 9 Apr, 2017 Lead dog Had a quick look at top see if I could remember anything after 13 months. I couldn't and its still harder than living dead.
Had a quick look at top see if I could remember anything after 13 months. I couldn't and its still harder than living dead.
julesmckim 20 Feb, 2017 Lead dnf Too tired at the end of the day for this. Got to second from last bolt easily enough, beautiful climbing. Cold, damp and windy and with fading light, all in all miserable conditions. Paul took big fall on his attempt, slipping off with armfuls of slack for the clip! Come back in the spring.
with paul mccarthy
Too tired at the end of the day for this. Got to second from last bolt easily enough, beautiful climbing. Cold, damp and windy and with fading light, all in all miserable conditions. Paul took big fall on his attempt, slipping off with armfuls of slack for the clip! Come back in the spring.
with paul mccarthy
Josh Hadley 31 Aug, 2016 Lead dog
Stanners 1 Jul, 2016 Lead dog Not a million miles away at all from getting this Onsight. Just needed a couple of feels for what crimp to use. Mega. Pure pleasure climbing up until the penultimate bolt.
with Fiend
Not a million miles away at all from getting this Onsight. Just needed a couple of feels for what crimp to use. Mega. Pure pleasure climbing up until the penultimate bolt.
with Fiend
Billg 5 Jun, 2016 Lead RP A bit too hot for this wall today. Bailed and drove to cheddar
with Will Calvert
A bit too hot for this wall today. Bailed and drove to cheddar
with Will Calvert
emdawes 14 May, 2016 Lead RP
J1_TOV 15 Mar, 2016 Lead RP Possibly harder than living dead?
Possibly harder than living dead?
Hidden 15 Mar, 2016 Lead RP
Cheese Monkey 10 Feb, 2016 Lead dog
Bristoldave ?Feb, 2016 Lead RP 1st rp
1st rp
chrisscutt 29 Dec, 2015 Lead RP
with Bates
with Bates
Bates 28 Oct, 2015 Lead RP Nice sequence at the top, harder to read than living dead I thought.
with Andy Brice
Nice sequence at the top, harder to read than living dead I thought.
with Andy Brice
Hidden 10 Oct, 2015 Lead dog
afrosam 10 May, 2015 Lead RP
Smurf-cat 10 May, 2015 Lead RP
with afrosam
with afrosam
Caspian Johnson 11 Apr, 2015 Lead RP Nice climbing
Nice climbing
Garrouli 15 Nov, 2014 Lead RP
with Matt Williams
with Matt Williams
TomJ 29 Sep, 2014 Lead dog
with Ben
with Ben
TomJ 22 Sep, 2014 TR dog Minus the first and last clip (which are both a bit run-out) this is actually very nicely bolted -Autumn '14 project!
with Ben
Minus the first and last clip (which are both a bit run-out) this is actually very nicely bolted -Autumn '14 project!
with Ben
NancyJones 6 Jul, 2014 TR dog
Justin T 6 Jul, 2014 Lead dog Spicy start on questionable rock to first bolt, onsight to the last bolt, hard rock to read.
Spicy start on questionable rock to first bolt, onsight to the last bolt, hard rock to read.
Hidden 8 Dec, 2013 TR RP
tobydunford 20 Sep, 2013 Lead RP
with Oli
with Oli
drcorbasisgod 19 Sep, 2013 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 15 Apr, 2013 2nd RP
Hidden 15 Apr, 2013 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 14 Apr, 2013 TR dog
Hidden 14 Apr, 2013 Lead dog
Tom Brierley 13 Sep, 2012 Lead RP Nice, super grippy rock.
Nice, super grippy rock.
thomasadixon 13 Sep, 2012 Lead RP Second go, damn fine climb.
Second go, damn fine climb.
Hidden 8 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 8 Aug, 2012 TR dog
Hidden 6 Aug, 2012 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 6 Aug, 2012 TR dog
ericinbristol 2 Aug, 2012 Lead RP Ist redpoint try in the rain. Chossy start, high first bolt, snappy holds on the crux at the top, awkwardly placed belay. But a good route nonetheless.
with Johnny S
Ist redpoint try in the rain. Chossy start, high first bolt, snappy holds on the crux at the top, awkwardly placed belay. But a good route nonetheless.
with Johnny S
Cailean Harker 23 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Nov, 2011 Lead β
colesy 19 Nov, 2011 Lead β
Paul Robertson 18 Nov, 2011 Lead RP First F7 for ages - feels like a breakthrough.
with Mike Goldthorp
First F7 for ages - feels like a breakthrough.
with Mike Goldthorp
James Marshall 12 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with Pete Shepherd
with Pete Shepherd
Tom Heslam ?Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
Mr Sparkle 10 Sep, 2011 TR dog Hard crimpy finish ;)
Hard crimpy finish ;)
Mike_Hayes 10 Sep, 2011 Lead dnf
Paul Robertson 23 Jun, 2011 Lead dog
guy xavier percival 23 Jun, 2011 Lead RP Fairly straightforward to the penultimate bolt it then steepens and there is a tough short sequence to the top.
with paul
Fairly straightforward to the penultimate bolt it then steepens and there is a tough short sequence to the top.
with paul
Pippa 11 Jun, 2011 Lead RP Last move move is tricky and hard to read, slipped off first go. Lovely rock
Last move move is tricky and hard to read, slipped off first go. Lovely rock
richsmithinbristol 11 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt Pretty steady and then a blind, hard crux at the top.
Pretty steady and then a blind, hard crux at the top.
Tomar 9 Jan, 2011 Lead RP Got it on my 3rd visit.
with OliBee
Got it on my 3rd visit.
with OliBee
Richard Hall 5 Dec, 2010 Lead RP 2nd go today. Have tried before a year or 2 ago. Brilliant route, not quite as good as the route to the left and a little easier.
with Howard
2nd go today. Have tried before a year or 2 ago. Brilliant route, not quite as good as the route to the left and a little easier.
with Howard
Hidden 2 Oct, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 2 Oct, 2010 Lead RP
Tomar 10 Jul, 2010 Lead dog
with Jay81
with Jay81
Hidden 30 May, 2010 TR dnf
eddy-on-the-rocks 29 May, 2009 Lead RP
with Mark
with Mark
Cowflinger 15 Nov, 2008 Lead RP
with sharpie
with sharpie
Mark Stevenson 11 May, 2008 Lead RP
with Lucy Creamer
with Lucy Creamer
_m.cox_ ?May, 2008 Lead β
richsmithinbristol ?May, 2008 Lead
with _m.cox_
with _m.cox_
Hidden 28 Jun, 2007 Lead RP
Marti999 16 Jun, 2007 Lead RP now has 4 new stainless bolts, one of the best sports routes in the southwest
now has 4 new stainless bolts, one of the best sports routes in the southwest
crimpaway 12 Nov, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jun, 1993 2nd
Hidden 27 Jun, 1993 Lead β
20 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set