Rockfax Description
A beautiful wall pitch that gradually picks its way up the central face and culminates in a technical finish. Start at a right to left sloping ramp, 5m right of the start of Living Dead.
Take the straightforward gangway to a sloping ledge at 9m. Climb the steep wall above and slightly right on small positive holds past a slim overlap to a good ledge (small cam optional). Move up the steepening wall on diminishing holds to the final bolt, from where a very thin move gains a good hold and ledge just above, lower-off on the left. The top of the cliff can be gained via a short HVS 5a pitch. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb easily to a ledge at about 8m. Climb past 3 bolts on the lower wall to a good break (old peg). Move up easily to good holds and a bolt. From here a sequence of about 10 moves leads with increasing difficulty to jugs, a ledge, and a two-bolt belay on the left

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20.


ClimberDateStyle
quiffhanger 16/Jul Lead β

I think I've done either this is or Living Dead in the past but no recollection which one so claiming the flash...

with Rachel
rhoslynfrugtniet 09/Jun Lead O/S
with Matt Helliker
duncan 01/Jun Lead RP
patrickcd 31/May Lead dog
with Steve
just one more 31/May Lead RP

Great. Good crimping on rough rock

with Patrick
mikedevcole 09/Apr Lead RP

2nd go but not sure it's valid as I finished rightwar after the last bolt. Didn't feel 7a+ that way.

Stuart William 09/Apr Lead dog

Cool. Hard sequence through the top. Probably ok once you have spotted the holds. Should have had a better effort at the flash but wasnt sure where I was going.

with J1 Tov
Tristan.Stricker 09/Apr Lead dog

Chickened out and went right at top. Direct seemed odd and too blind. Nowhere near as good as Living Dead.

with Jim
J1_TOV 09/Apr Lead dog

Had a quick look at top see if I could remember anything after 13 months. I couldn't and its still harder than living dead.

julesmckim 20/Feb Lead dnf

Too tired at the end of the day for this. Got to second from last bolt easily enough, beautiful climbing. Cold, damp and windy and with fading light, all in all miserable conditions. Paul took big fall on his attempt, slipping off with armfuls of slack for the clip! Come back in the spring.

with paul mccarthy
Josh Hadley 31/Aug/16 Lead dog
Stanners 01/Jul/16 Lead dog

Not a million miles away at all from getting this Onsight. Just needed a couple of feels for what crimp to use. Mega. Pure pleasure climbing up until the penultimate bolt.

with Fiend
Billg 05/Jun/16 Lead RP

A bit too hot for this wall today. Bailed and drove to cheddar

with Will Calvert
emdawes 14/May/16 Lead RP
J1_TOV 15/Mar/16 Lead RP

Possibly harder than living dead?

Hidden 15/Mar/16 Lead RP
Cheese Monkey 10/Feb/16 Lead dog
with Dave
Bristoldave ?/Feb/16 Lead RP

1st rp

chrisscutt 29/Dec/15 Lead RP
with lee
Bates 28/Oct/15 Lead RP

Nice sequence at the top, harder to read than living dead I thought.

with Andy Brice
Hidden 10/Oct/15 Lead dog
afrosam 10/May/15 Lead RP
Trisha Murphy 10/May/15 Lead RP
Caspian Johnson 11/Apr/15 Lead RP

Nice climbing

Garrouli 15/Nov/14 Lead RP
with Matt Williams
TomJ 29/Sep/14 Lead dog
with Ben
TomJ 22/Sep/14 TR dog

Minus the first and last clip (which are both a bit run-out) this is actually very nicely bolted -Autumn '14 project!

with Ben
NancyJones 06/Jul/14 TR dog
Justin T 06/Jul/14 Lead dog

Spicy start on questionable rock to first bolt, onsight to the last bolt, hard rock to read.

with Nancy
Hidden 08/Dec/13 TR RP
tobydunford 20/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Oli
drcorbasisgod 19/Sep/13 Lead RP
EmilyElouise 15/Apr/13 2nd RP
Hidden 15/Apr/13 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 14/Apr/13 TR dog
Hidden 14/Apr/13 Lead dog
Tom Brierley Gore 13/Sep/12 Lead RP

Nice, super grippy rock.

thomasadixon 13/Sep/12 Lead RP

Second go, damn fine climb.

Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 08/Aug/12 TR dog
Hidden 06/Aug/12 Lead dog
EmilyElouise 06/Aug/12 TR dog
ericinbristol 02/Aug/12 Lead RP

Ist redpoint try in the rain. Chossy start, high first bolt, snappy holds on the crux at the top, awkwardly placed belay. But a good route nonetheless.

with Johnny S
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead RP
Cailean Harker 23/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Nov/11 Lead β
colesy 19/Nov/11 Lead β
Paul Robertson 18/Nov/11 Lead RP

First F7 for ages - feels like a breakthrough.

with Mike Goldthorp
James Marshall 12/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Pete Shepherd
Mr Sparkle 10/Sep/11 TR dog

Hard crimpy finish ;)

Mike_Hayes 10/Sep/11 Lead dnf
Paul Robertson 23/Jun/11 Lead dog
guy xavier percival 23/Jun/11 Lead RP

Fairly straightforward to the penultimate bolt it then steepens and there is a tough short sequence to the top.

with paul
Pippa 11/Jun/11 Lead RP

Last move move is tricky and hard to read, slipped off first go. Lovely rock

with Richard
richsmithinbristol 11/Jun/11 Lead rpt

Pretty steady and then a blind, hard crux at the top.

Tomar 09/Jan/11 Lead RP

Got it on my 3rd visit.

Richard Hall 05/Dec/10 Lead RP

2nd go today. Have tried before a year or 2 ago. Brilliant route, not quite as good as the route to the left and a little easier.

with Howard
Hidden 02/Oct/10 Lead RP
Tomar 10/Jul/10 Lead dog
Hidden 30/May/10 TR dnf
eddy-on-the-rocks 29/May/09 Lead RP
with Mark
Cowflinger 15/Nov/08 Lead RP
Mark Stevenson 11/May/08 Lead RP
with Lucy Creamer
_m.cox_ ?/May/08 Lead β
richsmithinbristol ?/May/08 Lead
with _m.cox_
Hidden 28/Jun/07 Lead RP
Marti999 16/Jun/07 Lead RP

now has 4 new stainless bolts, one of the best sports routes in the southwest

crimpaway 12/Nov/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/93 2nd
Hidden 27/Jun/93 Lead β
12 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set