Rockfax Description
III, 410m or 800m§. The definition of a 'plumb line', this route is stunning to look at and isn't a bad climb either! The belays were (somewhat controversially) bolted in 2011. There will generally be something at every belay station but carry an Abalakov threader in the unlikely event that there is nothing in place. The route described is the Supercouloir Direct but the first two pitches are often dry so many teams climb the initial pitches of the Gervasutti Pillar and then traverse into the Supercouloir via a snowy ramp.
1) 5, 45m. Start up slabby ground for 8m and then enter the steep (and icy in good conditions) chimney. Follow this, alongside a somewhat random fixed rope, and step right to a bolted belay.
2) 6, 40m. Move back right into the chimney, which is more open by this stage and follow it steeply to a snow mushroom. Either climb this directly at M6 or, slightly easier, pass it on the left past a couple of pegs. 10m above the mushroom is a peg belay on a good ledge.
3) 2, 15m. Climb the snow slope to a belay on the right beneath the first of the steep ice pitches.
4) 4, 45m. Continue up the snow then climb the ice above. This pitch can be quite thin but the angle is around 75 degrees so it doesn't get too technical. Belay on the right.
5) 4+, 40m. Continue up fatter ice to a belay on the right.
6) 4, 45m. Marginally easier climbing up more thick ice leads to another belay on the right-hand side of the couloir.
7) 3, 55m. The easiest pitch on the route leads to a belay tucked away on the left under the crux pitch.
8) 5, 55m. Step out right from the belay and climb the steep ice above. It kicks up to vertical in places and is sustained. The belay is on the left above the difficulties.
The majority of teams abseil back down the route from here but it is also possible to continue to the summit of the Tacul. Continue up the gully on snow slopes and low-angled mixed ground to join the final section of the Gervasutti Pillar. Summiting the Tacul will take roughly 4 to 5 hours from the final bolted belay.
Descent - The vast majority of people abseil Supercouloir from the end of the final technical pitch, although it is also possible to summit the Tacul and descend the north face. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
M5+/6 direct mixed start, followed by the ice couloir graded 5

Jean Marc Bovin, Patrick Gabarrou 20/May/1975

Ticklists: Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Alpine Grande Courses.

stanleynkk 14/Apr/16 AltLd
Richard Kendrick 14/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Awesome route

machars 23/Mar/16 AltLd
with Charley
DigitalSteak 23/Mar/16 AltLd
Hidden 12/Mar/16 AltLd dnf
alexm198 12/Mar/16 AltLd dnf
Hidden 11/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/15 Lead β
Sir Pilade ?/Apr/14 AltLd

We did not climbed the direct mixed start, but we continued to go up the slope at the right side of the Piller Gervasutti until it was possible, and from there we started to climb on rock for 3 pitches. Very BAD idea! The pitches were hard, the rock was rotten and it was not easy to place some gears! It took us a lot of time. Then we finally reached the couloir.. and it was great! Very nice route!

Greg Boswell 23/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Started the route at 7pm and climbed/rapped the whole thing through the night.Clear skies, 4 star route and good company...what more could you ask for?

Ally Baba 23/Oct/12 AltLd
with Greg Boswell
Chris Reid ?/Feb/12 AltLd
with Kev Avery
hamish2016 16/Jan/10 AltLd

Direct start, 5 out of the 8 picthes of difficulties. Ran out of time and abbed off before descending the Vallee Blanche in a rapidly fading light with one headtorch (my petzl surprise there) and the heaviest bags we`ve ever skied with. Direct start is really good but rest of the supercouloir a bit samey.

with Tom Grant
ian bryant ?/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with dan
Hidden 13/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ?/Mar/07 Lead dnf

Did 3 pitches of the direct start, near to the traverse from the Gervasutti. Brilliant climbing, like Scottish VII/7, but very cold, abbed off as partner suffering from loss of feeling to feet and turned out he was developing frostbite.

with Mike Soldner
Hidden ?/Feb/98 AltLd
crossleysm ?/Mar/95 AltLd

With Rich.

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