Rockfax Description
A good and lesser known alternative to Via Messner. It follows the large corner to the left of Via Kasnapoff then continues up good featured rock to the summit.
Start to the left of the memorial plaque to the Austrian artist Hans Plank.
1) V, 45m. Climb direct up a slab then follow a short black chimney to a ledge (possible stance). Climb a flake above to reach a small terrace below the prominent corner.
2) V+, 40m. Climb the corner, making a delicate move onto the left wall after 15m, then move back into the corner trending right to a ledge.
3) VI, 35m. Climb the corner above with enjoyable three-dimensional climbing, then trend right to a stance in a niche.
4) IV, 25m. Traverse right around the vague arete until moves left lead to a ridge. Follow this right to a stance below a slab.
5) IV+, 45m. Climb the slab diagonally right then climb a short chimney to a peg. Follow a slab diagonally left then direct to a small bulge. Pull through this on good holds to a stance on the left.
6) IV+, 25m. Follow a chimney-corner direct to a large ledge.
7) V+, 50m. Climb a short pillar above the ledge then move left around an arete. Climb direct between two bulges then follow a ramp right to a scree terrace.
8) IV, 35m. Climb the left side of a pillar above the ledge then trend left slightly up a slab to reach the summit. © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Dexter JW 11 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Matt Amos 11 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Bottom six pitches were ace, especially 2,3,4. Cannot recommend the 7th 8th as the route was a little confused and he rock very loose, with poor gear.
Bottom six pitches were ace, especially 2,3,4. Cannot recommend the 7th 8th as the route was a little confused and he rock very loose, with poor gear.
Flavio 11 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
with robinge
with robinge
1 users have this on their wishlist
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