UKC

400m, 14 pitches.

Rockfax Description
425m. A superb route which is also know as 'Chapelle de la Glière'. The 'razoir pitch' is probably the most photographed in the valley and you'll understand why when you do it. Start at a bolt and a peg at the foot of a wide, right-facing corner-crack. There are some fully bolted but less travelled routes around the start; ignore these and stick to the corner.
Approach - From the top of the Index chairlift, descend the jeep track back towards the Flégère until it splits after 5 minutes or so. Take the right-hand branch, signposted for the Lachenal ski piste, and follow this for 100m and then branch off right onto a smaller path which traverses a scree slope. Follow this until almost directly below the start of the route and take a path leading rightwards into the final approach gully. Follow the gully (easy scrambling) to the foot of the first pitch. There is also a higher path that looks like it leads directly from the top of the chairlift to the foot of the route but it actually descends after 200m and joins the approach described here.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb the wide and polished corner-crack to a bolt belay on the left where it widens. If the belay is occupied, there is another one 5m up and to the right.
2) 4b, 25m. Continue up the corner-crack to gain the ridge.
3) 4a, 50m. Follow the ridge crest easily and then climb the blocky rock step above. Stay right at the top of this and don't be tempted leftwards by the presence of two bolted belays. Belay at the foot of a steep, well-worn corner with a peg 5m up.
4) 5b, 30m. Climb the corner, which is strenuous in places, to a semi-hanging bolt/peg belay on a small, sloping ledge.
5) 5a, 25m. Continue up the corner and exit via a steep pull onto slabbier ground. Follow this up and rightwards to a block belay at the start of an easy section of ridge.
6) 4a, 55m. Follow the ridge easily to where it steepens, and step right and climb a wide groove to a belay on a ledge with a short, orange slab on the left with a bolt a few metres up it. Given the ease of the climbing at the start of this pitch, moving together for part of this pitch makes sense and avoids having to bring a 60m rope specifically for this section.
7) 5c, 20m. Climb the slab (one hard move at the start) and step up and right at the top to an exposed belay on a spike.
8) 5a, 25m. The legendary 'razoir pitch'. Stand on top of the spike and make a committing move onto the slab above. Climb straight up and then slightly rightwards to reach the top of the slab. Follow this via a couple of bits of fixed gear down and rightwards to a bolt on the right where the slab ends.
9) 5a, 50m. Scramble up onto a small area of boulders and walk along this leftwards to join the ridge crest. Follow this to a steep groove. Climb this and step right at the top to belay on a spike.
10) 3c, 40m. Move right and climb broken ground up and rightwards. Pass through a groove and belay on spikes above.
11) 3c, 30m. Traverse right across easy ground and scramble through a notch to belay right below the Chapelle itself.
12) 5b, 30m. Climb the steep wall of the Chapelle via some steep and satisfying moves. At the top of the wall, follow the crest of the rock ridge down and right to a bolt belay beneath a final steep wall.
13) 6a, 15m. Head up the steep wall past some tenuous-feeling moves. There is sometimes some tat around a wobbly spike protecting the last few moves.
Descent - Make a 15m abseil down the north face of the Chapelle to reach a large boulder-filled terrace. From here, scramble eastwards following cairns and a vague path across the hillside, heading for the gully above the Aiguille de l'Index. This involves scrambling up and down occasionally exposed terrain but it is never hard. Be aware that there is some rockfall in the three big gullies that the path crosses so pick your spots carefully if you need to stop. Having crossed the third gully, continue down the clear path descending from the Aiguille de l'Index and follow this via a 28m abseil (or 3c downclimb) to the Index chairlift. Allow an hour from the top of the Chapelle to the chairlift. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.


ClimberDateStyle
ccjhs1824 25/Sep 2nd

1hr 15min approach from top of flegere, the climb took us 5.5hr as we took sometimes to figure out where are we heading in certain pitches. Decent took 1hr20min and missed last chair (obviously) so walked 2.5hr back to Les Praz. Such a long day but well worthy it, had the whole climb for ourself and really beautiful day ( a bit windy) Happy there is no snow in the gully ! My fav is the 5c slab pitch and the razoir pitch !

with Ásgeir Már
Tom Stoddart 14/Sep AltLd
with Iain Leverett
Petewilk 06/Sep -
oliverk 05/Sep AltLd O/S
with Justin
7toes 05/Sep AltLd
with Oli K
BarneyLoosemore 02/Sep AltLd O/S
Amy Kilpin 27/Aug 2nd
Hidden 26/Aug AltLd O/S
williap 26/Aug AltLd O/S
with Jase
Rob Royle 09/Aug Lead
with Lucy
Mike Bovill 08/Aug 2nd O/S
ChristyCole 06/Aug AltLd O/S
with dkilner
dkilner 06/Aug AltLd O/S
Dougbart 05/Aug AltLd
with Adrian
Hidden 04/Aug 2nd
Dom Goodwin 26/Jul 2nd

Marvellous route with lots of variants possible, especially higher up. Many parties bypassed the later pitches up the Chapelle.

with Corentin
Hidden 23/Jul AltLd
jrccrosby 23/Jul AltLd
with Old John
Al_Mac 18/Jul AltLd
with Theo
Hidden 17/Jul AltLd
George.D 13/Jul AltLd
jalqazzaz 08/Jul AltLd O/S

One of the best multi pitches (partly due to amazing weather) ive done. Nothing too hard. I deviated on to some 6b terrain to mix things up. Great finish. 4.5 hours with a lot of traffic :)

The9inger 02/Jul AltLd
with Amy
Rob_Morris1996 01/Jul AltLd O/S

Happy to get this one done after looking at it on my first trip and thinking it was a mammoth route... 10m deep snow bergschrund at the start of the route so traversed across clipping the odd bolt from various lines, then started moving together. Shared it with a group of 3 Spanish speaking guides and 'let' them through before the 5c slab as they were in a rush to make the football. Think we made the lift at around half two, a cracking day out!

with tghayne
mattkemp70 ?/Jul AltLd
with Uncle john
James.houghton 29/Jun AltLd

Fantastic route! Had to do a bit of a sport and trad traverse to reach the route due to lots of snow in the gully. Moved together for the easy pitches and alt led the rest. Climbed in just over 4 hours

a_m154 29/Jun AltLd

Amazing day, worthwhile route!

mattdennies 29/Jun AltLd O/S

Fantastic big day out, good quality rock and great holds where needed. Some brilliant pitches and crack moves. Lead the razor pitch with was pretty bold, no gear from the belay until the top of the arete where there is one piece of tat but the moves were fine. There was a large gap between the snow and the start of the route so we carried up the gully a little and traversed in left to the top of the top pitch on a ledge system. Descended down a snow filled gully to the west of L'Index which took us down to the approach path leading back up to the jeep track. Took us a little over 4 hours to do the climb, worth getting the first lift to give you as much wiggle room as possible.

Hidden 25/Jun AltLd O/S
Cbulman 25/Jun AltLd
ChrisH89 22/Jun AltLd

Really nice route, razor pitch is incredible! Took a harder variation start on bolts for 3 pitches as snow ramp to get to described start was dodgy. Route finding after the razor pitch is tricky...

with FelixL
FelixL 22/Jun AltLd

Topped out the wrong mountain,

SCClimb 20/Jun AltLd O/S

Missed out the chapelle due to snow slowing progress. Currently a 4m wide, 10m deep gap between the rock and the snow at the start of the route, so you have to abseil in from further up the slope. No snow on route, decent doesn't have tonnes of snow either.

WTorrensa 30/Aug/17 2nd O/S
with Paul Swail
jakeepictv 27/Aug/17 -
Hidden 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Merlin 25/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

In approach shoes until leading the 6a pitch. Brilliant day out despite the almost comical congestion.

with Dave Tait
Hidden 25/Aug/17 AltLd
MarkNicholasConnor 23/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
SarahConnor 23/Aug/17 AltLd
Gazmataz 17/Aug/17 -

Fay led

Hidden 15/Aug/17 -
Fellover 15/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Very nice, possibly did alternative start? Moved together until we passed everyone, guides not too happy...

Hidden 12/Aug/17 AltLd
Mbaillie 12/Aug/17 AltLd
calumhicks 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
CameronH 09/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with ford23
mchardski 02/Aug/17 Lead
with Stephanie
Rob Moorcroft ?/Aug/17 2nd
with Richard Ive
Hidden 31/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 31/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

First 5 pitches in on off rain, decided to bail then Sod's law the sun came out.

with j_duds
Lumbering Oaf 29/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

A good route with the best climbing in the lower half - gets a bit more scrambly toward the top. P1 and P2 can be run together on 60 m ropes. Had the constant threat of rain from just before 'le rasoir' (a great pitch!) There are bolts and pitons here and there and there is tat where you need it for abseils. Didn't climb the final 6a pitch as wanted to get down quickly in case of rainfall. Descent was pretty simple following a worn path. In the lower section we thought a 25 m abseil preferable than a scramble where there is the option of either.

with Alex Shipp
perrys 28/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
bennys89 28/Jul/17 AltLd
with perrys
sinbad 27/Jul/17 AltLd

The last 'full' day - made the decsision to get up early for the Contamine - first lift up - got out of the lfit to discover everything plastered in ice. The wet warm and humid weather of the previous few days had not been allowed to dry out due to cloud hugging the hills and the result was 2 inches of rime over everything. The girl working at the Midi station said she had never seen anything like it in summer. Ideas of the Cosimque as a back up plan quickly disappeared as we stood in strong icy winds with lumps of ice falling on us from the netting above - not a day for climbing at altitude! So headed to the Aiguille Rouge - arrived at bottom of Chapelle at about 9:30 with 5 teams in front of us - resigned ourselves to a long walk down at end of the day. However - teams moved quite well - a Japanese team didn't even get off the ground and after an hour we were on our way - with another Brit team behind. Progress was good, climbing was excellent and we topped out about 4 with enough time to make it down for the cable car and even a coffee! A good consolation day. Had an arguement with Pete that evening about what to do on Friday - he wanted to clip bolts in the valley - I wanted to try and get at least one route done that we had come for - Papillion... Eventually he agreed - but the next morning the lift was closed due to strong winds - we ended up at Barberine clipping bolts - me thoroughly miserable pulling on them! Didn't finish - abbed off and came home!

with Pete Burgess
Wendy Watthews 27/Jul/17 AltLd

A very busy route.

with JakeB.
Hidden 27/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
scottywakefield 27/Jul/17 AltLd
Iain_L_32 27/Jul/17 AltLd
Siongethinhill 23/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Abseiled off, as the que was large and we had to get back to work! The one that got away

with Benoit Remillieux
Robbie Blease 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Awesome day out!!! Led many pitches including the razoir pitch and the crux.

Orange 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Louis Kennedy
JohnHartley 23/Jul/17 AltLd
Maz J 21/Jul/17 AltLd

led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12

with Simon Jones
FelixPeterken 19/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Some odd pitches but worth it for the last one and a great summit

with AndrewP
AndrewP 19/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Lead even pitches. Top 6a pitch is tough but brilliant.

bc44caesar 18/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Julian Prieto 18/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3,5,7,9,13. Moved together on P10,11.

Hidden 18/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
FelixJT 17/Jul/17 Lead

simul, except last pitch

with alex brighton
pete1993 17/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

did a variation start which missed out the first 6 pitches but stuck mo to the arete and joined just before the razor, good, but too busy which detracted from it, either make sure you are first on it or do it later and walk all the way down

Max Streeton 17/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Sheri Bastien
LucaC 05/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

With alternate start, up the bolted route on the right. Overtook 3 teams. 3:40hrs from bottom to top, 1:05hrs from summit of the Chapelle to the index lift. No snow anywhere on the descent, carried an axe for nothing!

andycash 05/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
rosso 03/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with faye
faye 03/Jul/17 AltLd
with rosso
steve_gibbs 02/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
duncanedgley 02/Jul/17 AltLd
neal 27/Jun/17 AltLd

From index lift. Mix of moving together and pitching. Led p2, p4, p7, p13. In rock boots. Nice route, feels a little contrived, might be better to stick to crest of the ridge before the chapelle?

with Stuart Mcleod
Ashley King 24/Jun/17 AltLd

Lead pitches 5, 6, 9, 10, 11 and 12. Was amazing, great views and razor pitch was awesome. Not too hard either. Would definitely recommend.

JonoDHawkins 24/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Finally got on it - shame the Razoir pitch was in the cloud but fantastic climbing and in pretty good time too!

Steve Woollard 18/Jun/17 AltLd
with Andy
Si 09/Jun/17 AltLd

Walked up from Argentiere as the lifts weren't open yet for the summer. Great long day. Still some big patches of snow about in approach gully and descent gully; all dodgeable with some ropework. 3.30 to start of climbing, 4ish hours on route, 1.30 down to top of Index lift, 2 hours down. 11 hours total.

adie84 ??/2017 -
Robbo1 08/Sep/16 -
Hidden 04/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
matty123 03/Sep/16 AltLd
Petarghh 03/Sep/16 AltLd
tumbling wizard ?/Sep/16 -
YellowFellow 11/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Managed to beat the crowds and simul-climbed the whole thing apart from the last 6a pitch. No one in sight the after second pitch. Unique :) less than 2 hours on total.

bencoope 10/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Rob Royle 29/Jul/16 2nd

A fantastic, must do, route!!

with Seb (Mountain Guide)
kitkat78 19/Jul/16 AltLd
with SteveM
SteveM 19/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 18/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Heather Osborne 18/Jul/16 AltLd

First big day out, wrongly went up the Tour which was scary and loose, but apart from that really enjoyed it (ukc route description much better than the Piola guide). Long walk down from the Index after missing the last lift.

Hidden 16/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Megan37 ?/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
CraigOsborne ?/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 29/Jun/16 AltLd rpt

There's a bolt below a wide corner system low down on the ridge, this is probably the original start, it leads up through easy chimneys to gain the ridge. There is plenty of in-situ tat on this line. scrambling then leads to the top of the bigger, more polished corner system mentioned in the UKC description.

Matt Harmon 26/Jun/16 Lead O/S

led all in 7 pitches with a few pitches of simulclimbing. some sections quite loose, harder than expected

Sarah Roscoe 26/Jun/16 AltLd
owen gibson 22/Jun/16 AltLd
Nick Arthur 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

The razor edge ridge was fantastic, as were some of the other harder pitches. Some poo came out on the 5c slab! A combination of an early faffalanche and slight difficulty route finding at times resulted in missing the lift back down. It was a long walk back to the campsite in Argentière...

cwildblood 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
verticon ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
TCarrick 26/Aug/15 AltLd
hlegge 26/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

razor edge and the chapelle itself are really fun and interesting leads, not your normal rock climb very fun! final "crux" pitch looks intimidating but was actually quite soft for the 6a grade it gets in the modern guide book.

with Alfie Maun
Alfie Maun 26/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Hamish Legge
Gumery 25/Aug/15 Lead rpt
Oo 22/Aug/15 -
aljones91 19/Aug/15 AltLd

Awesome climb!! Wet in parts but still mega. Camped at l'index lift and started early did most of the route by ourselves but got caught by three teams of aspirant French guides!

with Ben hester
jmbonello 12/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Super busy on the day but some great climbing! Descent longer than expected.

with Kurt, Andre
Dawn_K_B 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Excellent day, managed to keep up with Janus which is always a bonus! Quite busy although everyone was reasonably fast moving so didn't have to wait around too long. Led the layback P1,3,5,6, corner crack P8,10,11. Seconded the 6a finish which Sam led on the 5b.

with Oscar Holmsten, Rick Visser, Janus Jorgensen, Sam Ash
Sam Ash 08/Aug/15 AltLd rpt
Rob84 05/Aug/15 AltLd rpt

Great to get back on this after doing it about 10 years ago or so - lovely route and great positions.

with mel_1
TreseB 03/Aug/15 AltLd dnf

Rappel down after 5th pitch, rappel down Les Portes de la Chapelle

jonesieboy 03/Aug/15 AltLd
alooker ?/Aug/15 Lead
A Jackson ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ben F, Neil Murphy
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Hidden 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Scott Anderson 29/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Horrible loose descent 👍 great climb otherwise

with Gav
Hidden 06/Jul/15 2nd
buzby78 01/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Jess
Hidden ?/Jul/15 -
pankoman ?/Jul/15 -
alexm198 30/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Super cool little route with some great pitches. Led the 6a finish which was made a little spicier by the fact that the big spike now wobbles disconcertingly. I honestly have no idea how anyone could ever have got lost on this route. Just under 4 hours from start to finish.

with Damian Ryan
Hidden 30/Jun/15 AltLd dnf
Ben FR 21/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 20/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Rebs 20/Jun/15 2nd
JimboWizbo 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Great day out. Note that the first pitch is found after a grade 2 scramble up the gully and is all solid rock, note the picture of the "easy angled slabs" in the guide, the first pitch starts on the left of the gully at the end of the overlap seen in those slabs. We wasted a day trying to start up a crap, grassy gully in poor conditions. Finished up the chapel via the 6a pitch, great. Shame about the drilled holes in the razor traverse.

with BCT
Hidden 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Exitus ??/2015 -
davkeo 14/Sep/14 Solo O/S

Lovely varied climbing on mostly good rock. Cracking exposure. Did 6a finish and used the party aheads rope for abseil.

joe_lancs 11/Sep/14 AltLd
Gumery 11/Sep/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 10/Sep/14 AltLd
admackie 09/Sep/14 AltLd

first two pitches of portes very good sport then good mountaineering route ran like a maniac for the lift

with marconi
the power 05/Sep/14 AltLd
with Palmer
Palmer 05/Sep/14 AltLd

awesome route just made the last lift down

marconi 05/Sep/14 Lead

first 2 pitches of Les portes de la chapelle (I led first, Mackie the second), then finished up the SSE Arete

Callum Smith 03/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Sporadic fixed gear. Mostly slings and nuts for belays and occasional runners. Start and end pitches are super, middle is ok. Some polish, doesn't detract. Twisted ankle on decent, minor epic. 3 star VS. Do the 5a and 6a to finish.

engelsk_chica ?/Sep/14 2nd

seconding with Seb

froglette 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Route finding got tricky. Didnt do final pitch up the Chapelle as running out of time to bivi!

with Rob Scarisbrick
JuneBob 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led most of it, opted for the 5c variation on the last pitch.

with Alastair
Hidden 12/Aug/14 -
Vincej 12/Aug/14 2nd
with Severin Marchand
MartF 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Lead in sections. Stu first 2 pitches, Stubbs a few in the middle and me the last 4/5 pitches (including the crux to the top of the chapelle - 6a). Lots of traffic, including a party toproping the chapelle pitch one after the other. Missed the chairlift but managed to run down to the Flegere in 15 minutes and catch the last (delayed) telepherique.

with Stu Spencer, carl_123
benclimbing 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Superb and classic route. An absolute must for anyone heading to Cham! Fixed gear just where you need it but unless you're quite bold a trad rack really helps

with cashley, Edgars, jonskippy
carl_123 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
jonskippy 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with benclimbing, Edgars, cashley
Little AndyH ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Senna 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
benny_m 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, bad view in cloud all day

with Sean Chu
matty123 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Mia
Gumery 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Caroline
K Mckay 06/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led final 5b pitch...fantastic!

K Farrell 06/Jul/14 AltLd
with K Mckay
GuitarGenius92 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Spectacular. Moved together over large sections, not sure how many pitches.

with will smith
Sam Ash 03/Jul/14 -
with Guy Wilson, Chris Pope
Hidden ?/Jul/14 -
Harry Ellis ?/Jul/14 AltLd

Awesome, lives up to the hype. Dropped my phone down a crack!

with Chris Cox
JakeWShaw 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Another amazing route, did slightly harder start on left as snow in initial gully. Tom lead corner and I did razor edge. Went a bit wrong at the end and ended up climbing the loosest face ever. Glad to see bolt at top!

Teappleby 21/Jun/14 AltLd

Amazing route, started up a slightly harder line to the left, but joined the route after about 2 pitches. I led the long corner (good VS) and then Jake stepped up to lead the razor edge after I backed off. Very loose at the top, probably because we went the wrong way though, hard not to trundle lots of blocks.

joe.91 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route! Beat a team up the initial snow ramp to the first pitch which turned out to be crucial. Some excellent pitches but the last section is a little bit of a maze. Made the last lift by about 30 minutes!

with Olli-C
Hidden 20/Jun/14 AltLd
Olli-C 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Cool route. No harder than VS. Axe and boots required for the approach and descent.

with joe.91
RobScarisbrick ??/2014 -

With Amanda, not entirely sure of the date

Willythegreat ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
peakcaver ??/2014 -
Ly-Cilph 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

What a route!

with Frank Y
david0811 06/Sep/13 AltLd
with debbie, MrRiley
MrRiley 06/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Truly awesome! Ran pitches 1 and 2 together and pitches 4 and 5 together, razor's edge incredibly exposed and a nice final pitch up the chapelle.

Debbie Lee 06/Sep/13 AltLd
with MrRiley
Just Will ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 2nd
monkeyme2 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome day! Awesome climb! Long day, and missed cable car down. Second walk to valley in 4 days. Didn't matter though, didn't care. Had such a good day.

with Ben J
Hidden 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
mickd 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Good route, a bit busy. Usual gravelly alpine descent.

HansStuttgart ?/Aug/13 -
Hidden 25/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/13 AltLd
peter.herd 20/Jul/13 -
with Sinclair Cooper
Nigel Bond 15/Jul/13 AltLd
MichaelGallimore 15/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Superb multipitch. Led last pitch, French6a ish. Photo to come shortly

Slick 01/Jul/13 AltLd
Naomi Havercroft 01/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 01/Jul/13 AltLd
jcooper8 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/13 -
AnnaBacklund ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
PtereBradley ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Super 14 pitches of climbing

with Phil Dowthwaite
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
Gumery 30/Jun/13 -

About 2.5 hours to the top of the Chapel

with Forshaw
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead
Grant Fulton 30/Jun/13 Lead

3hrs

Dr Avinash Aujayeb 21/Jun/13 2nd
with Tim Neil
Hidden ??/2013 -
Jack00 ??/2013 AltLd O/S
with Andy Graham
freeheel47 ??/2013 -
Tobias at Home ??/2013 -
Sam Cooke 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent climbing. Lead the last pitch up the Chapel and Clocher - a lovely routes.

csalvage 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Fab route. John and Mia following, Andy Philipson in front. Strict alt leads meant I got gem 5s in the middle but Bry led first pitch, polished layback and the crazy last pitch. Small rack required

with Bryan
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/12 AltLd
with torquil
cmarsden5 ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
wiibaker 27/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Rick Ashton 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Lovely easy climb, great last pitch

with Declan
Hidden 23/Aug/12 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/12 AltLd
martinazando 08/Aug/12 AltLd

An Patrick Very good climb. James did very well but got lost by the knife blade. Intimidating but amazing. Rush in last 4 pitches to make the last lift. Made it! Descent not very nice

with James Lam
Jonny Nick 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed with Julia. Amazing route with fantastic pitches. Razor edge pitch has amazing exposure. Final pitch up the clocher seemed extremely blank with iffy bolts so gave it a miss. Descent easier than had been warned.

jameslam ?/Aug/12 -
with Patrick
Dolf ?/Aug/12 AltLd

Done again, now in about 5:30h

chrisallan 30/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Gareth T 25/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Tim Popplestone
Martin Bennett 20/Jul/12 -
with Ali
thomaspomfrett 20/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Greg (guide), Dan Slome
wendynicholls 20/Jul/12 2nd
with Dominic Saul, Richard DuPont
Sankey 19/Jul/12 AltLd

Lead all the key pitches expect for the "Razor traverse", which Ed opted to traverse on the left, a pitch that felt hard and awkward to 2nd. Had trouble finding start, actually lead some of a harder corner line lower down the gully. Despite this comfortably made the lift down, after a slightly late start. 7 pitches, if prepared to run together.

with Ed
Hidden 18/Jul/12 AltLd
Les Ross 18/Jul/12 AltLd
Ken Applegate 12/Jul/12 AltLd

Nice route, middle section is a bit wandering, but is more than made up for by the first and last sections.

with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden 10/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
gravity 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with notgnarly, Yvonne, Manik
Tdavy01 05/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jul/12 -
mcaterina ?/Jul/12 2nd
Alex Thomson 27/Jun/12 AltLd
with jenpen
Alex Thomson 27/Jun/12 AltLd
with jenpen
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Rockley 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing on the chapelle

maria85 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Jules
Hidden ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
david0811 21/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Mark Reid
Hidden 11/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 08/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 AltLd
jac00 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 AltLd
tomtom89 20/Aug/11 AltLd
with jac00
geoff.comley 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Starts off really nce climbing. Then we summited the wrong peak before the Col and then decided one pitch from the top to ab off down the loosest gully in the world!! Really cool slab arete thing half way up!

Somerset swede basher 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Andy Kennedy
Alpandy 10/Aug/11 2nd
with Dom
np134 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with C. Price
Liam Ingram ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
chrissloan84 ?/Aug/11 -
with paul
Dolf ?/Aug/11 AltLd

Great! Took much longer than the 5 hour estimate from the guidebook though, and we had to quit when it got dark, unfortunately without having climbed the Clocher (final pinnacle) itself. The descent walk is described as being easy to find, which, in the dark, it is not, so after searching quite a while we decided to bivouac. Pretty cold, but a nice sunrise brought back our smiles, and in the light the walk down was easier to find.

Shuttsie ?/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
Kris ?/Aug/11 AltLd
AlistairB 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Meacher
Hidden 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
tlmarjot 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with ben_lea
matthewjames 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Got to lead the razor edge and the final pitch. Amazing climb. Unfortunately we didn't photocopy the descent page and took the wrong route down.

with Jonathon
edmund94 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Some moving together on the easier sections. I lead crux pitches including the final ascent of the tooth at the end. Felt like VS, 5a and a bit shaky in the wind. The final pitch also has a spike of rock which seems quite unstable. When this comes away, the final pitch will change significantly.

Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
nvalentine760 11/Jul/11 AltLd
tommoulds 11/Jul/11 -
with Schramm
Alexandre Buisse 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Kirill 10/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Monkey_Alan 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Floris Bruynooghe
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
d_meacher ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Jack Loftus 21/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden 21/Jun/11 AltLd
Petarghh 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Little dissapointed, quite broken climbing with 4 or so decent pitches and one "three star" pitch.

with Lew13
sacdenouilles 18/Jun/11 AltLd
with J F Philippe
drew8connelly ??/2011 -
Roberttaylor ??/2011 AltLd
Ashley Hold ?/Oct/10 AltLd
with torquil
Hidden ?/Oct/10 AltLd
dan ely 08/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

approx date

with dan doc (norwg)
Ashley Hold ?/Sep/10 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/10 AltLd
Dave Toseland 25/Aug/10 AltLd
with Jim
Hidden 23/Aug/10 -
stuart34 18/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Moved together

with Kim Ladiges
fish219 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with mark88
John Pickles 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with >mortz<
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/10 2nd
mark88 10/Aug/10 Lead
with Craig Fisher, Alex Vaughan
vaughany 10/Aug/10 2nd

Awesome day out

with craig fisher, mark patterson
gilmour_789 10/Aug/10 AltLd
with RKernan
RKernan 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
QuentinSu ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
John Roe 28/Jul/10 Lead
with Scott Maclennan
Coops_13 19/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Andy Cooper
Chris Sansum 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with ruaidh
ruaidh 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Tremendous day out. Did it in me boots (difficult on slabs). Route is long and path finding on decent could be tricky (hence the hard D+). Fortunately we had a pair of frenchies to follow. Allow about 8 hours for everything, more if youre slow.

johnmctighe 15/Jul/10 2nd
with Stephan
Claire Molloy 15/Jul/10 2nd

Absolutely brilliant ridge climb - a lot of corners and open book cracks. Managed the last pitch F6a which was hardest grade yet.

with Andy Owen JG, Nick Smith - Climbers
Hidden 15/Jul/10 2nd O/S
mark_chal 14/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
thetradlad 14/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark Challoner
Ross Davidson 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Caspar
Hidden 10/Jul/10 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Lead
Stuart Johnston ?/Jul/10 AltLd
with Misha Gopaul
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd
Brannock ?/Jul/10 AltLd

Nice route, bit disjointed, great crux on the final tower.

jogle03 30/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
richm74 28/Jun/10 2nd
tskelhon 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Alpine style with 3 on the rope, awesome bants

with Annette, Matt
Hidden 27/Jun/10 -
matt_ringrose ?/Jun/10 AltLd
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Aug/09 2nd
BALD EAGLE 19/Aug/09 Lead
with Fraser Bridgeford
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/09 AltLd
andyinglis 01/Aug/09 AltLd
with neil adams
Neil Adams 01/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Steerpike ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Tommo
Bristoldave ?/Aug/09 AltLd
with Jon Hauser
cmsg 29/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Done in full this time.

with Nicki Kolfschoten, Luke Gannarelli, Llewelyn Thomas
Ian JL 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Em66 24/Jul/09 -
with Freg1
Hidden 12/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Alkis 03/Jul/09 AltLd dnf

Unfortunately did not have the time to get on the Chapelle pinnacle itself, we misread the route and ended up on the extremely weathered pinnacle at the right hand side of the amazing Rasoir pitch, which wasted enough time for the weather to move in. Got to the base of the Chapelle and escaped via the normal descend route.

Hidden 03/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/09 AltLd rpt
Ollie B 03/Jul/09 -
with J.Monypenny, T.Nichols
kingjam ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with Craig Higgins, Matt Naylor, eyal niv
davepc ?/Jul/09 AltLd
with Mike
Hidden ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
BenJacobs 03/Jun/09 AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr/09 2nd
andrewb ??/2009 2nd
with AndyE
Andy Can68 09/Aug/08 -
Hidden 02/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
chris m fisher 02/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Dan M
Hidden ?/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
cmsg 27/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

The final pinnacle was not done, as we had strayed off route, and were already late for the 'phérique. Which we missed.

with Nick Shuttleworth
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/08 AltLd
HIGHTOWER 23/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Gordie (Leuchars), timmy-ts
gordon henderson 23/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with MRT
Misha 23/Jul/08 Solo

Beautiful route. Solo in mountain boots was tricky in places (people doing it in rock shoes are missing the point!). Didn't manage to get to the top of the Clocher - had to ab off a peg.

Watty 22/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Moved together on the easy parts.

with A.Watt
Alexander123 22/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Moved together on easier sections. Neither of us had the balls to climb the last pitch to the chapelle. Awsome climbing on the razor pitch.

with Watty
vvanhinsbergh 02/Jul/08 Lead O/S

two seconds turned into an epic day...

with Will Payling
Hidden 01/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
hamish2016 ?/Jul/08 Lead
with lou atkin & Bill Kalaher
david0811 30/Jun/08 AltLd dnf

Had to abandon the route due to thunder storms

with Mark Reid
Hidden 28/Jun/08 -
Hidden 28/Jun/08 -
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
milkyjoe 04/Nov/07 AltLd

Just missed the last chair down, so had to walk back to the valley - thereby catching fantastic sunset over cloud inversion

dan gibson 24/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with sam read
Maarten2 12/Aug/07 AltLd

Nice climb, but too busy to really enjoy. The Chapelle had 3 teams queuing up, so we could not do that without missing the cable car. Albigna, Bergsee or Val Masino is quieter and just as good...

with Martin S
decs 05/Aug/07 -
with tebs
Hidden ?/Aug/07 -
tebs ?/Aug/07 AltLd

moved together on most of it. I resorted to french free on the chapelle!

with decs
Andy Clarke 31/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Very pleased to complete this classic after getting stormed off it a few years ago. The rasoir must be one of the most photogenic pitches in the range.

with Alex
Rich A-Wilkes 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Missed the last cable car and had to walk down

with Moniawl
Moniawl 31/Jul/07 2nd
Rob84 26/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Sam Strong
Hidden 25/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 18/Jul/07 2nd O/S
TGreen 12/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with alek
Mowglee 01/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Jono
Mark Walter ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Ed Hill
steve2006 ?/Jul/07 AltLd dnf

there was a thunderstorm plus we missed the chair-lift. So ended up walking down and I was the wettest i have ever been.

SamStrong ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Rob Dyer
wilchivs ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

took us til 4.30am to abseil down...nice route though!

with Rob Barnett
alek ?/Jul/07 AltLd rpt

A lovely day out. Loved the last pitch.

with TGreen
Darrell Read 20/Jun/07 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/06 2nd
alicia 21/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Only led two pitches

with Tobs
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
dickypips ?/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
alek 15/Jul/06 2nd O/S
with Martin Lane
Paul-Michael 05/Jul/06 Lead dnf

Storm hit us just after the slab pitch rappelled down the south-west side.

with Dave Swinney, Peter Anderson
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
NickST ?/Jul/06 -
with Sean Jacobs
Hidden ?/Jul/06 AltLd
shaun walby ?/Jul/06 AltLd
with Kev Groome
Hidden 25/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Theeni ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Matt Dalby
Hidden ?/Sep/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/05 2nd dnf
RAK 03/Jul/05 Lead
with Lauri
Mat J ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Done this twice, enjoyed it more the second time, must have had my eyes shut the first time. The razor traverse is spectacular, as is the final pitch.

with Ali, the guys from Notts.
manmike ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with jon
fizzy_elephant ?/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
with Rob Williams
Hidden ??/2005 -
clams ??/2005 -

With Ben and Liam

with AD
MoWalker3 01/Aug/04 -
with Dave
Wil Treasure ?/Aug/04 -
with AdamW
Will Homoky 04/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Ned Atkins
Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/04 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/04 -
James Gordon ??/2004 -
Mark Stevenson 01/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Tom Salisbury
Will Gordon ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S

Retreated after P9 due to approaching lightning, did multiple abseils down a rocky couloir back to the start of the route.

with Steve Merchant
ian bryant ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with rod
Hidden ?/Aug/03 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/03 AltLd
reg_measures 29/Jun/03 AltLd
with steve burdett
David Horwood 25/Jun/03 -
joe king ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with steve petit
mike.moss ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Tom Stedall
liz j ?/Sep/02 2nd
with neil brodie
Mark Salter 22/Aug/02 -
with Carwyn Bridges, Chris Shorrock
Hidden 05/Aug/02 AltLd
ian bryant ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with rod
Grezza ?/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
with Paul E
TonyG ??/2002 -
net ?/Aug/01 AltLd

I only led the v easiest bits iirc!

with Julie H & Owen D
220bpm ?/Aug/01 AltLd

Nice route finishing in a rare position. A bit broken in the middle section.

with Dave
chrishedgehog ?/Aug/01 AltLd O/S

Climbed route in about 3 hours just keeping up with Alpine Tim and his twin who eventually turned up at D.R.!

with Welsh Neil
1202alarm ?/Aug/01 -
andybuckley ?/Jul/01 AltLd

Went up the couloir too far when searching for the base, so really only climbed the top couple of pitches. Rematch needed.

with James Tedd
SimonN ?/Aug/00 -
plain kitten ?/Sep/99 AltLd

CS

Rog Wilko ?/Aug/99 AltLd
with Debbie Wilkinson
Robinl100 ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
with Paddy Muir
Hidden ?/Aug/98 AltLd
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd O/S
tomkhoward ??/1997 Lead O/S
with Nick (SICMC)
prometheus ??/1997 AltLd
with Dan
Hidden ?/Aug/96 AltLd
Hidden ??/1996 Lead
bandersnatch ??/1996 Lead
with Mairi B
Laramadness 09/Aug/94 AltLd
with RF
tompercy 14/Jul/94 AltLd
with John V
Brian Rodgers ??/1994 -
with Peter Lavin
auld al ?/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
John Southworth ?/Jul/93 -
Kenneth l ??/1993 AltLd O/S

South East Arete

with With Alan
Hidden 17/Aug/92 AltLd
agagsgrot ?/Aug/92 2nd
Hidden 30/Jul/92 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides 28/Jul/92 AltLd
with Chris Bedford
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd
with Stuart Turnbull
Hidden 01/Aug/90 AltLd O/S
Richard Weller 17/Aug/89 -
with John Tolmie
Hidden 21/Jul/89 Lead
pauldrew ?/Jul/89 -
Hidden ?/Jul/89 -
johnkeith ??/1989 AltLd
with G. Callander
Hidden ?/Sep/88 Lead
Tony Buckley ?/Aug/88 AltLd

The arete/edge pitch was wonderfully atmospheric, with the mist swirling around.

with Richard Brockman
Chris Ellis 28/Jul/88 Lead
with Steve Legg
pingora 28/Jul/88 -
freeheel47 ?/Jul/87 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/85 AltLd
Neil McA 28/Jul/84 AltLd O/S
with Dean from USA
davemhart ?/Jul/84 AltLd O/S
jcw ??/1984 Solo
Hidden ??/1984 -
Robmwatt ??/1984 AltLd
with Gaz Morgan
alpinist63 17/Jul/81 -
Hidden ?/Jul/80 AltLd
jmr ?/Aug/78 AltLd

Great fun. Started v late in the day and had to endure an embarrasing bivvy on descent. Our attempt to sneak back into camp before others noticed failed. Our ruse waa exposed. We had been rumbled!

with John Purkis
Hidden ?/Aug/76 AltLd
Andy Chubb 28/Jul/76 AltLd
with Andrew Collins, Pete Coghill, Saxon Ridley
Derek Ryden 15/Jul/76 Lead O/S

Started last and overtook every other party to arrive at top first. Very pleased.

with Nicola Davies
pneame ?/Jul/76 AltLd
Ken Taylor 15/Jul/75 AltLd
with Jonathan Lagoe
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Voting
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High D+
Mid D+
Low D+
High D
Mid D
Low D
Votes cast 33
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set