1200m.

Rockfax Description
III, 1200m, 1 - 2 days. One of the best routes in Chamonix and a rite of passage for anyone aspiring to the Alps' biggest routes - the Frendo Spur is worth the hype. The proximity of the cable car at both ends means it is often underestimated but demands respect, not least since it requires both rock and ice climbing skills and is difficult to retreat from. For competent teams, it represents a wonderful adventure with the added bonus that there is no descent required - the summit is not halfway on this route! The dilemma faced is whether to take bivouac gear to allow the top ice slopes to be climbed in the cold of the early morning. Climbing the route in one day is easily possible but a bivouac has the added benefit of allowing you to spend the night on a huge alpine face - an experience that is probably worth carrying a few extra kilos for if the weather is good.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, follow the path south towards the Glacier des Pélerins. The path ends up on a moraine ridge with the glacier on the right and the west face of the Aiguille du Peigne on the left. Follow the path up the moraine ridge and then cross the glacier where the path runs out above Pointe 2468 and head directly for the spur. There is some serac and rockfall danger on the final section of the approach and at the start of the route, so get established on the initial ramp before stopping for a drink!
1) Cross the small bergschrund onto a right-leaning ramp (snow covered in early season) which leads in turn to a left-slanting ramp/slab. This is steeper than it initially appears and can feel quite tricky when damp.
2) Climb this until it peters out and steepens into a wall, at which point you move rightwards and climb increasingly steep chimneys, heading for the crest of the spur.
3) 5b. The final chimney is steep and is easily identifiable by the jammed block at the top, which is looped with numerous pieces of tat. Climb the chimney relatively easily before making a steep pull out rightwards (5b) around the jammed block and onto an exposed arête. Whether you pull on the tat is up to you - either way it is well protected.
4) Follow the gully above which leads to the crest of the spur.
5) Climb a series of ledges just to the right of the spur, moving left when the rock steepens considerably, to reach a straightforward gully.
6) This leads to an exposed col with stunning views down either side of the spur.
7) 5c. Climb the corner just to the left of the col (5c) for 30m to reach slightly easier but sustained ground just left of the spur.
8) 4b. The easier ground continues for 200m at around 4b up slabs, short corners and ledges.
9) Where the spur steepens again, move left onto the snow slope and climb this (45 degrees) next to the spur to reach the spacious bivouac site and the top of the rock section.
10) The famous snow ridge is stunning but usually unprotectable, so take great care. As it merges with the snow slope above it may be possible to place ice screws, but the first guaranteed protection is at the foot of the rock rognon. It is possible to climb the rognon direct at 6a but most teams now go either left or right of it.
11) Right is marginally shorter and more direct but there is often black ice near the top - check conditions beforehand from the Aiguille du Midi cable car if considering this route. In most conditions, left is a better option and has the added bonus of bolted belays every 50m. The final section of ice is the steepest, at around 70 degrees, before the angle eases off and a snow slope leads to the foot of the Aiguille du Midi ridge.
Descent - Take the lift down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The long classic ridge summiting next to the telepherique station.

Ticklists

Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ICAS Climbing Club, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Alpine Dreamz

Feedback

UserDateNotes
wheelsucker 7 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Very poor ice cover at the top of the route and constant rockfall.
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βeta: Very poor ice cover at the top of the route and constant rockfall.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
wheelsucker 7 Jul AltLd O/S Done in a day. Started at 4.30 from a bivi near to the Plan Lift. Got to the bottom of the route at 6 and topped out the rock climbing at 11 mostly moving together. The snow ridge was straightforward with ice screw protection after about 40 - 50m. The ice above is very hard black ice which was bombarded regularly with rockfall. The snow/ice cover to the left of the rognon is very very poor. We climbed on the rock to try and avoid stonefall and made a rising traverse higher up which put us higher up the finishing ice slope. The ice is so thin that the bolted belays are too high up the wall to reach. The rock around the rognon is one giant jenga block and we were very lucky not to get injured. The finish spoiled what was a very good route. Tread carefully.
with Dave Stocks
Done in a day. Started at 4.30 from a bivi near to the Plan Lift. Got to the bottom of the route at 6 and topped out the rock climbing at 11 mostly moving together. The snow ridge was straightforward with ice screw protection after about 40 - 50m. The ice above is very hard black ice which was bombarded regularly with rockfall. The snow/ice cover to the left of the rognon is very very poor. We climbed on the rock to try and avoid stonefall and made a rising traverse higher up which put us higher up the finishing ice slope. The ice is so thin that the bolted belays are too high up the wall to reach. The rock around the rognon is one giant jenga block and we were very lucky not to get injured. The finish spoiled what was a very good route. Tread carefully.
with Dave Stocks
tradisrad 28 Jun AltLd O/S Fantastic route! Done in an day (7:30 including approach). Adam led the cruxes.
Fantastic route! Done in an day (7:30 including approach). Adam led the cruxes.
Adam Coles 28 Jun AltLd O/S
iainballantyne 24 Jun AltLd Dry rock and soft snow up to the snow arete, hard Neve and ice above. Done over 2 days, had to chop out the bivi ledge
Dry rock and soft snow up to the snow arete, hard Neve and ice above. Done over 2 days, had to chop out the bivi ledge
WillHempstead 24 Jun AltLd Over two days, led from just after the 5c pitch to the midi. Went right at the top and up an icy gully at around Scottish 4, even managed to get a torque in!
with Rob Giddy , iainballantyne
Over two days, led from just after the 5c pitch to the midi. Went right at the top and up an icy gully at around Scottish 4, even managed to get a torque in!
with Rob Giddy , iainballantyne
Robertgiddy 24 Jun AltLd Great experience and route in not bad condition. Spent an hour digging out the bivy and then had to sleep tied on! Highlight was snow/ice on second day - went right of the final buttress which was thin but good climbing with Scottish 4 at the top (could traverse further right to give an easier finish).
Great experience and route in not bad condition. Spent an hour digging out the bivy and then had to sleep tied on! Highlight was snow/ice on second day - went right of the final buttress which was thin but good climbing with Scottish 4 at the top (could traverse further right to give an easier finish).
msjhes2 30 Jul, 2018 - With RC and PSE. Excellent trip. Rock fun and enjoyable, two crux pitches passed with ease. Above the 5c pitch we got a bit off route and had to resort to aid on an overhanging crack. Top half on the second day was a nightmare 300 metres of grey ice, had to pitch it all and went right of the rognon. Luckily we had plenty of ice screws.
With RC and PSE. Excellent trip. Rock fun and enjoyable, two crux pitches passed with ease. Above the 5c pitch we got a bit off route and had to resort to aid on an overhanging crack. Top half on the second day was a nightmare 300 metres of grey ice, had to pitch it all and went right of the rognon. Luckily we had plenty of ice screws.
Hidden 30 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Jo sumner 30 Jul, 2018 2nd
Hidden 24 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
A Reid 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd Full rack cams 9 screws Fulls set nuts ?half set 8 runners
with Hoyes, Max
Full rack cams 9 screws Fulls set nuts ?half set 8 runners
with Hoyes, Max
Hoyes 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Two day ascent. Followed a combination of Rockfax description and Camp to Camp topo (useful for rock section). From the "exposed col" we climbed a system of fun juggy cracks to the left of the col at about UIAA IV+ (not sure why Rockfax gives this section 5c). We then continued up, gradually trending left and eventually emerging onto easy ground (after aiding a short steep pegged corner not described by Rockfax - not sure how you'd avoid this). After this up snow for about 200m to spacious bivi immediately below snow arete (overnight thunderstorm - not forecast and not fun!) Away by 5am up snow arete then sustained 40 to 50 degree ice right of rognon (snow arete in reasonable condition but remainder mostly grey ice - well protected but time consuming). Big boots throughout, carrying camelots 0.3 to 3, full set of nuts and 9 ice screws.
with Max S, A Reid
Two day ascent. Followed a combination of Rockfax description and Camp to Camp topo (useful for rock section). From the "exposed col" we climbed a system of fun juggy cracks to the left of the col at about UIAA IV+ (not sure why Rockfax gives this section 5c). We then continued up, gradually trending left and eventually emerging onto easy ground (after aiding a short steep pegged corner not described by Rockfax - not sure how you'd avoid this). After this up snow for about 200m to spacious bivi immediately below snow arete (overnight thunderstorm - not forecast and not fun!) Away by 5am up snow arete then sustained 40 to 50 degree ice right of rognon (snow arete in reasonable condition but remainder mostly grey ice - well protected but time consuming). Big boots throughout, carrying camelots 0.3 to 3, full set of nuts and 9 ice screws.
with Max S, A Reid
Max Streeton 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd Climbed over two days. Top section hard ice, so mostly pitched.
with James Hoyes, Alex Reid
Climbed over two days. Top section hard ice, so mostly pitched.
with James Hoyes, Alex Reid
Cam Bevan 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd
7toes 12 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Stuart M
with Stuart M
Culann 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Davis
with Davis
Robbie Blease 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd Brilliant! I led the hard ice, Cam the rock cruxes, we did it in two days. Took the right exit, wouldn't have gone left for a million pounds with the state it's in currently!
with Cam
Brilliant! I led the hard ice, Cam the rock cruxes, we did it in two days. Took the right exit, wouldn't have gone left for a million pounds with the state it's in currently!
with Cam
Gawyllie 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd http://grahamwyllie.blogspot.com/2018/06/frendo-spur.html?m=1
with mrbird
http://grahamwyllie.blogspot.com/2018/06/frendo-spur.html?m=1
with mrbird
mrbird 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2018 -
im off 5 Oct, 2017 AltLd Scottish mixed condition. Started bout 7am. Got to 2nd crux bout 7pm when it got dark. This was a just off vertical open book corner with a bit of thin ice up the corner. 30m. Half way up the ice decided to detach with me on it. Reasonably protected so didn't go far. Andy finished this crux. Battled on in dark to bivi spot by 5am. We were knackered. 2hrs sleep then off to the top. Good fun I think.
with Andy
Scottish mixed condition. Started bout 7am. Got to 2nd crux bout 7pm when it got dark. This was a just off vertical open book corner with a bit of thin ice up the corner. 30m. Half way up the ice decided to detach with me on it. Reasonably protected so didn't go far. Andy finished this crux. Battled on in dark to bivi spot by 5am. We were knackered. 2hrs sleep then off to the top. Good fun I think.
with Andy
Jay C ?Sep, 2017 AltLd 1 day - Left hand finish
with Nic
1 day - Left hand finish
with Nic
Little AndyH 23 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
joe.91 23 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Great to finally do this in great style, first bin at 7am and topped out in a little under 8hrs. Dubious snow conditions ATM meant we had to pitch the ice rather than move together.
Great to finally do this in great style, first bin at 7am and topped out in a little under 8hrs. Dubious snow conditions ATM meant we had to pitch the ice rather than move together.
janegallwey 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S 4th and 5th with bivy
4th and 5th with bivy
alpinist63 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd
sanguine ?Apr, 2017 AltLd dnf Late start and route finding problems with pain in the arse snow conditions, coupled with an uncomfortable bivy necessitated a retreat - gutted - have to tick this off next year!
with Jonn
Late start and route finding problems with pain in the arse snow conditions, coupled with an uncomfortable bivy necessitated a retreat - gutted - have to tick this off next year!
with Jonn
Hidden 30 Mar, 2017 AltLd dnf
Uisdean hawthorn 20 Mar, 2017 AltLd
Tom Livingstone 20 Mar, 2017 AltLd rpt Winter ascent, first bin to last bin (08.20 to 16.40). Plenty of fresh powder.
Winter ascent, first bin to last bin (08.20 to 16.40). Plenty of fresh powder.
Hidden 16 Mar, 2017 AltLd
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Liam Ingram 8 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Climbed on 7th and 8th. Rock section totally dry but 8 pitches of hard ice after the snow arete slowed us down somewhat.
Climbed on 7th and 8th. Rock section totally dry but 8 pitches of hard ice after the snow arete slowed us down somewhat.
Oliver Smaje 8 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Hugh Irving 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Bivied at the base, climbed it all in a day. Moved together over all the rock, pitched out a good bit of the ice though. Had to sprint up the midi ridge for the last lift down! Mega route, which puts you in some amazing situations.
Bivied at the base, climbed it all in a day. Moved together over all the rock, pitched out a good bit of the ice though. Had to sprint up the midi ridge for the last lift down! Mega route, which puts you in some amazing situations.
George Ponsonby 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 2 Sep, 2016 AltLd
MassivePunter 25 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Best route I've ever done . . . so far!
Best route I've ever done . . . so far!
alan1234 25 Aug, 2016 -
alexbooker87 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Adam Looker
with Adam Looker
alooker 23 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Finn Curry 23 Aug, 2016 2nd Done in 2 days - all rock pitches to bivouac ledge in big boots, then snow and ice pitches on day two. A brilliant route.
with Paul Warnock
Done in 2 days - all rock pitches to bivouac ledge in big boots, then snow and ice pitches on day two. A brilliant route.
with Paul Warnock
Hidden 22 Aug, 2016 Lead
Paul Collins 21 Aug, 2016 AltLd rpt Finally! 6 hours, well happy!
Finally! 6 hours, well happy!
SeánM 20 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S A topo or a route description would have helped a little.
with Rob N
A topo or a route description would have helped a little.
with Rob N
Rob N 20 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with SeánM
with SeánM
Hidden 19 Aug, 2016 Solo O/S
James W 19 Aug, 2016 2nd
with Mark Thomas
with Mark Thomas
Andy Lagan 12 Aug, 2016 AltLd
matty123 11 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Bob Addey
with Bob Addey
davkeo 8 Aug, 2016 Solo rpt 2nd day here. Camped on the plan with intention of doing a route on L'M but ended up walking over and back as partner had to head home. So this route was not planned but conditions and weather were good. Used partners crampons and axe. Started rock at 9. Bivi ledge at 11.30. Started arête at 12.15. Top at 1.45. Followed a couple of guides onto harder stuff which was needless. A better way though in terms of climbing. râteau de chèvre was tricky & exposed in boots. Put rock shoes on for higher crux only.
2nd day here. Camped on the plan with intention of doing a route on L'M but ended up walking over and back as partner had to head home. So this route was not planned but conditions and weather were good. Used partners crampons and axe. Started rock at 9. Bivi ledge at 11.30. Started arête at 12.15. Top at 1.45. Followed a couple of guides onto harder stuff which was needless. A better way though in terms of climbing. râteau de chèvre was tricky & exposed in boots. Put rock shoes on for higher crux only.
bogpetre 7 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S TDL took rock crux. I took ice crux.
TDL took rock crux. I took ice crux.
birks3746 2 Aug, 2016 AltLd 2 day-er. Dry and warm conditions, day 1 was ok but ploddy as you check the topo every 10 seconds. For some reason we didn't change to rock shoes until after the exposed col- don't do this. Aided the hell out of the 1st crux- go right not left of the fallen block. 2nd crux was ok. 8ish hrs. Great bivi if a bit chilly. Day 2; not our speciality, found it tough and pretty harrowing (maybe due to our relative lack of experience on ice/mixed but also thought conditions were v.warm, the easier angled pitches had significantly worse ice, lots of water running underneath, the rocks falling apart (blocks size of fridges ready to fall very easily- be super careful when pulling on anything). 5-6hrs. Very glad to finally top out
with Phil
2 day-er. Dry and warm conditions, day 1 was ok but ploddy as you check the topo every 10 seconds. For some reason we didn't change to rock shoes until after the exposed col- don't do this. Aided the hell out of the 1st crux- go right not left of the fallen block. 2nd crux was ok. 8ish hrs. Great bivi if a bit chilly. Day 2; not our speciality, found it tough and pretty harrowing (maybe due to our relative lack of experience on ice/mixed but also thought conditions were v.warm, the easier angled pitches had significantly worse ice, lots of water running underneath, the rocks falling apart (blocks size of fridges ready to fall very easily- be super careful when pulling on anything). 5-6hrs. Very glad to finally top out
with Phil
QuentinSu ?Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Rob Pitt 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Lee Roberts
with Lee Roberts
Murilo Lessa 15 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Nikolay C.K. Tjøstheim 15 Jul, 2016 AltLd β After a heavy snowfall there was more winter conditions on route. We had are crampons on for the whole route. a great route without a doubt. we used 19 hours on route. this would be faster without the new snowfall!
After a heavy snowfall there was more winter conditions on route. We had are crampons on for the whole route. a great route without a doubt. we used 19 hours on route. this would be faster without the new snowfall!
bencoope 7 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 7 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S technically easy but mega long
with Matt Groom, Ben Coope
technically easy but mega long
with Matt Groom, Ben Coope
scorpia97 3 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Led in 5 long simul pitches and 11 hrs from the plan d'aguille to midi. One of the first ascents of the season, climbed in boots (and crampons when applicable) still a lot of snow on the route but great fun. Full write up: http://chasingmastery.com/the-frendo-spur-a-capstone-project/
Led in 5 long simul pitches and 11 hrs from the plan d'aguille to midi. One of the first ascents of the season, climbed in boots (and crampons when applicable) still a lot of snow on the route but great fun. Full write up: http://chasingmastery.com/the-frendo-spur-a-capstone-project/
Hidden ??, 2016 -
thomas108 ??, 2016 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Sep, 2015 Lead
with Chris Hague
with Chris Hague
Hidden 14 Jul, 2015 AltLd
jogle03 13 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
joelevanschamonix 1 Jul, 2015 AltLd bin to bin in 8 hours. snow slopes ok, ice melting. hot weather has made top slopes unclimbable
with Tim Oliver
bin to bin in 8 hours. snow slopes ok, ice melting. hot weather has made top slopes unclimbable
with Tim Oliver
HosteDenis ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2015 AltLd
anthonyjc 30 Jun, 2015 - First ever alpine route! 12hrs 30 mins of climbing, with really shitty snow conditions. Great fun! :D
First ever alpine route! 12hrs 30 mins of climbing, with really shitty snow conditions. Great fun! :D
DigitalSteak 18 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Superb route though very long. Lots of poor snow and ice on the route so hard going but worth having the route to ourselves and the stunning bivi on the top of the spur.
Superb route though very long. Lots of poor snow and ice on the route so hard going but worth having the route to ourselves and the stunning bivi on the top of the spur.
Graeme Barr 18 Jun, 2015 -
Richard Kendrick ?Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Anthony Campbell
with Anthony Campbell
joelevanschamonix ??, 2015 -
Hidden ??, 2015 -
davkeo 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Can't believe I got to do this on first alpine trip. What an experience shared with 2 sound English lads. Rock was long but easy. Moved together. Only difficult part was the crux which was harder than expected in boots and with backpack. Led crux and all ice pitches. Arête was exposed and fantastic. Bivied on ledge which added to the whole deal. Good laugh and enjoyable all the way.
Can't believe I got to do this on first alpine trip. What an experience shared with 2 sound English lads. Rock was long but easy. Moved together. Only difficult part was the crux which was harder than expected in boots and with backpack. Led crux and all ice pitches. Arête was exposed and fantastic. Bivied on ledge which added to the whole deal. Good laugh and enjoyable all the way.
hoppojoe7 10 Sep, 2014 2nd O/S flanked around glacia to the left. should have gone directly up glacial towards start of the route. very little snow on rock section, found route ok. easy climbing with boots. bivvy'd before snow field left hand side of ridge. woke early to benefit from frozen ice section to the top. exited left of rock roagon.
flanked around glacia to the left. should have gone directly up glacial towards start of the route. very little snow on rock section, found route ok. easy climbing with boots. bivvy'd before snow field left hand side of ridge. woke early to benefit from frozen ice section to the top. exited left of rock roagon.
alexm198 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Left the bivvy at the Plan de l'Aiguille at 1am, climbed through the night in a single 9 hour push. Only brought two screws so leading the steep ice at the top was emotionally taxing.
Left the bivvy at the Plan de l'Aiguille at 1am, climbed through the night in a single 9 hour push. Only brought two screws so leading the steep ice at the top was emotionally taxing.
Matt Harle 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Sep, 2014 -
Hidden 3 Sep, 2014 AltLd
planetmarshall 3 Sep, 2014 AltLd So very, very long... Fantastic though. Planned bivouac far short of the top of the rock section. Climbed in big boots, a lot of mixed ground near the top of the rock section climbed Scottish style with axes and crampons.
So very, very long... Fantastic though. Planned bivouac far short of the top of the rock section. Climbed in big boots, a lot of mixed ground near the top of the rock section climbed Scottish style with axes and crampons.
Hidden ?Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2014 AltLd rpt
Little AndyH 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Roberttaylor 8 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Over two days
Over two days
Hidden 6 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Aug, 2014 AltLd
David Staples 6 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S Over a day with perfect conditions.
Over a day with perfect conditions.
Hidden 5 Aug, 2014 Lead
Palindrome 5 Aug, 2014 2nd Did it over two days with big boots all the way.
Did it over two days with big boots all the way.
Edvenables ?Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Amazing! Rock part went really well, went right (wrongly) at the end though so Rob smashed an E1 chimney/corner crack combo. Hauled my sack so I could do it in style. Solid bivvy ledge, but an overnight downpour resulted in a miserable few hours 'sleep'. Set off an hour earlier than planned (3) in an attempt to warm up - cold conditions meant perfect neve! Sketchy snow ridge led to a final perfect ice pitch. Will climb again.
with Robert Taylor
Amazing! Rock part went really well, went right (wrongly) at the end though so Rob smashed an E1 chimney/corner crack combo. Hauled my sack so I could do it in style. Solid bivvy ledge, but an overnight downpour resulted in a miserable few hours 'sleep'. Set off an hour earlier than planned (3) in an attempt to warm up - cold conditions meant perfect neve! Sketchy snow ridge led to a final perfect ice pitch. Will climb again.
with Robert Taylor
Paul Collins ?Aug, 2014 AltLd dnf
rholdswo ?Aug, 2014 2nd
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 AltLd dnf
Mr. K 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Set off in the afternoon of Sunday 27th, one bivvy near the top of the rock buttress. Route was in great condition, we climbed all the rock in rock shoes. I lead the exposed flake pitch which was amazing, Masa did the 5b crux and a lot of pitches in the dark as the day went on! The snow arête and exit snow slopes were in great condition early morning, pretty stepped out so we were happy moving together and only pitching the 80 degree crux ice pitch.
Set off in the afternoon of Sunday 27th, one bivvy near the top of the rock buttress. Route was in great condition, we climbed all the rock in rock shoes. I lead the exposed flake pitch which was amazing, Masa did the 5b crux and a lot of pitches in the dark as the day went on! The snow arête and exit snow slopes were in great condition early morning, pretty stepped out so we were happy moving together and only pitching the 80 degree crux ice pitch.
masa-alpin 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Took a cable car at 12:50(!), and started climbing at 3pm (we must have taken a wrong approach). Climbed the old F5b crux pitch in the last light, and climbed on in the dark (new moon) till immediately before the bivvy spot at 00:45 am, miraculously managing the non-trivial route-finding. Took an hour sleep at the sloping bivvy ledge, getting up at 4:30am, setting off the bivvy at 6:15am for the final rock pitch and nicely-frozen snow/ice climb, and topped out at around 9:30am. The best alpine route I have done so far!
with Mr. K
Took a cable car at 12:50(!), and started climbing at 3pm (we must have taken a wrong approach). Climbed the old F5b crux pitch in the last light, and climbed on in the dark (new moon) till immediately before the bivvy spot at 00:45 am, miraculously managing the non-trivial route-finding. Took an hour sleep at the sloping bivvy ledge, getting up at 4:30am, setting off the bivvy at 6:15am for the final rock pitch and nicely-frozen snow/ice climb, and topped out at around 9:30am. The best alpine route I have done so far!
with Mr. K
ndraper1 19 Jul, 2014 - Climbed superb conditions. Pitched where we needed to, route finding was pretty straightforward. Bivied at a ledge(10m ab) 50m before exposed snow saddle. Amazing views and a big wall feel! Climbed the snow and ice in near perfect cons, recommend double cams .75-3 and double nuts as this helped us move well. A well deserved complete mountaineering 3* classic.
with Joel Evans
Climbed superb conditions. Pitched where we needed to, route finding was pretty straightforward. Bivied at a ledge(10m ab) 50m before exposed snow saddle. Amazing views and a big wall feel! Climbed the snow and ice in near perfect cons, recommend double cams .75-3 and double nuts as this helped us move well. A well deserved complete mountaineering 3* classic.
with Joel Evans
joelevanschamonix 18 Jul, 2014 AltLd Climbed over two days. warm rock on day one and firm snow on day 2. great condition http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/07/21/frendo-spur-aiuille-du-midi-3842m/
Climbed over two days. warm rock on day one and firm snow on day 2. great condition http://joelevanschamonix.com/2014/07/21/frendo-spur-aiuille-du-midi-3842m/
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2014 Lead
with Alison Culshaw
with Alison Culshaw
danny269 ?Jul, 2014 AltLd set off after lunch, bivied before normal spot, finished in a lightening storm with axes singing.
with Stan
set off after lunch, bivied before normal spot, finished in a lightening storm with axes singing.
with Stan
Hidden 24 Jun, 2014 -
benkelsey 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd β Underestimated the amount/quality of the snow and had to keep changing footwear. I lead a few pitches of scottish IV on mixed ground (slow) then Pete did first actual Crux, then very slow up the snowy spur: it got dark around 300m before our planned bivi ledge. I lead 5 pitches in the dark where we spent a surprisingly comfy few hours in a hole-cum-ledge. Aided a 7m corner (probably E2 at sea level in rock boots) before breakfast then onto the snow which took 4/5 hours with a cheeky brew on our planned bivi ledge. total time: 25 hours, conditions: poor collapsing deep snow, weather: wall to wall sunshine fading to sleet and fog, climbing: every single style. Quality route, will come back in summer connies to do it in a respectable time. Nice effort from Pete powering through extreme tiredness like a boss
Underestimated the amount/quality of the snow and had to keep changing footwear. I lead a few pitches of scottish IV on mixed ground (slow) then Pete did first actual Crux, then very slow up the snowy spur: it got dark around 300m before our planned bivi ledge. I lead 5 pitches in the dark where we spent a surprisingly comfy few hours in a hole-cum-ledge. Aided a 7m corner (probably E2 at sea level in rock boots) before breakfast then onto the snow which took 4/5 hours with a cheeky brew on our planned bivi ledge. total time: 25 hours, conditions: poor collapsing deep snow, weather: wall to wall sunshine fading to sleet and fog, climbing: every single style. Quality route, will come back in summer connies to do it in a respectable time. Nice effort from Pete powering through extreme tiredness like a boss
pete1993 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd β EPIC route, started at lunchtime on the 21st thinking it'd be plain sailing up to the normal bivy ledge......how we were wrong. Large amounts of snow on the route still which had turned into a wet slushy collapsing mess, making going very slow in either rock boots or b3's! it got dark just below the higher rock crux pitch, which ben absolutely cruised, carried on in the dark until 1.30 where we stopped and bivvied on a small ledge/hole, carried on in the morning getting to the normal bivy ledge at 10, brewed up there and pressed on up the snow arete which was in ace condition and flew by, then went left round the rognon on absolutely perfect plasticy ice, took 4 60m rope lengths to finally top out at 14.50 on the 22nd, absolutely stunning route which i definitely underestimated, cracking job by ben pulling us through it!
EPIC route, started at lunchtime on the 21st thinking it'd be plain sailing up to the normal bivy ledge......how we were wrong. Large amounts of snow on the route still which had turned into a wet slushy collapsing mess, making going very slow in either rock boots or b3's! it got dark just below the higher rock crux pitch, which ben absolutely cruised, carried on in the dark until 1.30 where we stopped and bivvied on a small ledge/hole, carried on in the morning getting to the normal bivy ledge at 10, brewed up there and pressed on up the snow arete which was in ace condition and flew by, then went left round the rognon on absolutely perfect plasticy ice, took 4 60m rope lengths to finally top out at 14.50 on the 22nd, absolutely stunning route which i definitely underestimated, cracking job by ben pulling us through it!
Hidden ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Gordon Lacey 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Scott Rankin 5 Sep, 2013 AltLd
simondunf 2 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S bivied by the plan d'aiguille, cruising along until my lack of acclimatisation caught up on the ice slopes. fantastic day
with caspar
bivied by the plan d'aiguille, cruising along until my lack of acclimatisation caught up on the ice slopes. fantastic day
with caspar
Hidden 2 Sep, 2013 AltLd
HimTiggins 23 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Carla, Danny
with Carla, Danny
luckyjim 14 Aug, 2013 AltLd Bivvied at the narrow col..spectacular rockfall during the night!
with D Helm
Bivvied at the narrow col..spectacular rockfall during the night!
with D Helm
adamwesthead 13 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Set off in afternoon and bivyed when the cloud came down. Awful night and did not sleep a bit as just down jacket and space blanket which disintegrated after about an hour of me fidgeting. End up sleeping with feet in rucksack hugging each other trying to stay warm and pacing about every hour. Next day straight forward but long. Underestimated the length of the Ice section. 60m ice pitch with two dodgy screws was a bit scary.
with Hoult
Set off in afternoon and bivyed when the cloud came down. Awful night and did not sleep a bit as just down jacket and space blanket which disintegrated after about an hour of me fidgeting. End up sleeping with feet in rucksack hugging each other trying to stay warm and pacing about every hour. Next day straight forward but long. Underestimated the length of the Ice section. 60m ice pitch with two dodgy screws was a bit scary.
with Hoult
Murilo Lessa 6 Aug, 2013 AltLd dog Epic! Climbed over 2 days as our acclimatisation. Second day under total storm: tropical rain, snow, windy, thunders, lightnings, the whole shebang... aff...
with stew
Epic! Climbed over 2 days as our acclimatisation. Second day under total storm: tropical rain, snow, windy, thunders, lightnings, the whole shebang... aff...
with stew
Bruce S 1 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Paul Collins ?Aug, 2013 AltLd dnf *helicopter
*helicopter
robgixer ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
mcgovern ?Aug, 2013 AltLd epic
epic
Michael 23 Jul, 2013 -
np134 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with TRFrost
with TRFrost
TRFrost 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with np134
with np134
r_o_b_h2 15 Jul, 2013 AltLd Over two days, 7hrs rock, 4hrs ice and went left at the top at scottish 3. Bit slow and heavy overall but amazing route and cracking bivi spot.
with Nik Goile
Over two days, 7hrs rock, 4hrs ice and went left at the top at scottish 3. Bit slow and heavy overall but amazing route and cracking bivi spot.
with Nik Goile
Hidden 15 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Mike Hood 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Nelson Pelson ?Jul, 2013 -
Ben Briggs ?May, 2013 - Ski descent with 200m of rappels.
with Luca
Ski descent with 200m of rappels.
with Luca
jcw ??, 2013 -
James Thacker ??, 2013 -
walts4 ??, 2013 -
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Tony Kartawick ??, 2013 AltLd rpt
with Nick
with Nick
Tom Livingstone 21 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Boshed the rock in 3 hours! Ice was shit but managed fine
with Ollie B
Boshed the rock in 3 hours! Ice was shit but managed fine
with Ollie B
Ollie B 21 Aug, 2012 - Rock took 3 hours. Ice took 4 as it was in very poor and icey condition
with T.Livinstone
Rock took 3 hours. Ice took 4 as it was in very poor and icey condition
with T.Livinstone
Ewan Russell 14 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Did the rock section really quick and were moving slowly on the ice so thought we would use the original finish. Bit of a mistake really ended up doing an a1 pitch, a one legged offwidth, scottish III/IV ice pitch and exciting mixed. When I got down was sick and are still feeling awful really lucky I managed to get the last lift down would have been bad to have spend the night up there.
with Rockley
Did the rock section really quick and were moving slowly on the ice so thought we would use the original finish. Bit of a mistake really ended up doing an a1 pitch, a one legged offwidth, scottish III/IV ice pitch and exciting mixed. When I got down was sick and are still feeling awful really lucky I managed to get the last lift down would have been bad to have spend the night up there.
with Rockley
Rockley 14 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S See below, last lift was a godsend @ 7.30pm
See below, last lift was a godsend @ 7.30pm
Hidden 2 Aug, 2012 AltLd
davebrox 10 Jul, 2012 AltLd β
with rocio
with rocio
Ken Applegate 4 Jul, 2012 AltLd Great route! Started at 3pm, rained on at 7pm on the first day, meaning a bivi much sooner than we'd hoped for.
with Scott Kirkhope
Great route! Started at 3pm, rained on at 7pm on the first day, meaning a bivi much sooner than we'd hoped for.
with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2012 Lead
with Julian Williams
with Julian Williams
Hidden 30 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 26 Jun, 2012 AltLd
with Ed
with Ed
sacdenouilles 24 Jun, 2012 AltLd The usual epic avec Jean Francois. Can be done in a day by younger people. Can be done in a very long day by a sexagenarian and his young friend. Summited at 8 pm as weather was getting a bit nasty. Bivouac at the station.
with J F Philippe
The usual epic avec Jean Francois. Can be done in a day by younger people. Can be done in a very long day by a sexagenarian and his young friend. Summited at 8 pm as weather was getting a bit nasty. Bivouac at the station.
with J F Philippe
Merlin 23 Jun, 2012 2nd Climbed in two days. Cruxes seem to be understated on most accounts, found them harder than 'VS' and frequent. Getting around the Rognon took five pitches, not the expected three. Good route, although lacks line as the route wanders. The whole thing is also essentially a pile of choss. I'm surprised more people don't get hurt or killed by rockfall. So if it's on your tick list do it now because it's falling down!
with Mark Patterson
Climbed in two days. Cruxes seem to be understated on most accounts, found them harder than 'VS' and frequent. Getting around the Rognon took five pitches, not the expected three. Good route, although lacks line as the route wanders. The whole thing is also essentially a pile of choss. I'm surprised more people don't get hurt or killed by rockfall. So if it's on your tick list do it now because it's falling down!
with Mark Patterson
mark88 23 Jun, 2012 Lead Well, I thought it was great!
with Merlin Andrew
Well, I thought it was great!
with Merlin Andrew
darcan ??, 2012 AltLd
with chris bailey
with chris bailey
Hidden 2 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
Si ?Oct, 2011 -
Hidden 7 Sep, 2011 AltLd dnf
Drew M ?Sep, 2011 AltLd
tumbling wizard ?Sep, 2011 AltLd
with Drew M
with Drew M
Hidden 14 Aug, 2011 AltLd
reima 12 Aug, 2011 AltLd Went a few times gloriously off-route and bivvied on the best ledge we could find in the white-out, which obviously wasn't the usual place. Steep ice bit turned out to be so well travelled that a comparison to ladders would be in place.
with Niamh
Went a few times gloriously off-route and bivvied on the best ledge we could find in the white-out, which obviously wasn't the usual place. Steep ice bit turned out to be so well travelled that a comparison to ladders would be in place.
with Niamh
Hidden 10 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Dave Searle 10 Aug, 2011 Solo Great day, super fun. 2hours 25mins from the bergshrund to the midi plan ridge. (Sorry Greg) Perfect conditions at the moment.
Great day, super fun. 2hours 25mins from the bergshrund to the midi plan ridge. (Sorry Greg) Perfect conditions at the moment.
Dave Searle 10 Aug, 2011 Solo Great day, super fun. 2hours 25mins from the bergshrund to the midi plan ridge. (Sorry Greg) Perfect conditions at the moment.
Great day, super fun. 2hours 25mins from the bergshrund to the midi plan ridge. (Sorry Greg) Perfect conditions at the moment.
Greg Boswell 2 Aug, 2011 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 -
Hidden 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
nvalentine760 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Alexandre Buisse 16 Jul, 2011 AltLd In a day from the hut. Did the entire rock in stickies, good ice on the left exit of the rognon. Stunning climb!
In a day from the hut. Did the entire rock in stickies, good ice on the left exit of the rognon. Stunning climb!
gilmour_789 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with RKernan
with RKernan
RKernan 12 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S 13 hrs in all, bad snow conditions on the arete and upper section slowed us down and we were extra careful after the accident the previous week
13 hrs in all, bad snow conditions on the arete and upper section slowed us down and we were extra careful after the accident the previous week
twright180 11 Jul, 2011 -
with John McCune
with John McCune
sarpedon 11 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Easy 2 day climb with Floris. Day 1, 5 hours in the afternoon to the bivy. Day 2: another 5 hours to the top. Took the left exit to finish the route, climb ever steepening ice with the final crux pitch of 80degree ice that then became rotten nevee as the angle eased.
Easy 2 day climb with Floris. Day 1, 5 hours in the afternoon to the bivy. Day 2: another 5 hours to the top. Took the left exit to finish the route, climb ever steepening ice with the final crux pitch of 80degree ice that then became rotten nevee as the angle eased.
Lenny 5 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf
with Paul
with Paul
garethsteel 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd Started late on the 3rd at about 1700. Ended up going too far L and a bit off route, necessitating a slightly uncomfortable bivi. Also managed to find a narrow couloir with some ice going at about Scottish 5. Avoided the rock rognon at the top via the ice on the R. About 200m of reasonable quality ice, though we had only 3 screws for protecton. Overall great route.
Started late on the 3rd at about 1700. Ended up going too far L and a bit off route, necessitating a slightly uncomfortable bivi. Also managed to find a narrow couloir with some ice going at about Scottish 5. Avoided the rock rognon at the top via the ice on the R. About 200m of reasonable quality ice, though we had only 3 screws for protecton. Overall great route.
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
liamo333 ??, 2011 - 9 hours, top class route.
9 hours, top class route.
Luke Brooks 22 Sep, 2010 AltLd Over two days, 12 hours climbing. Quite snowy on the upper rock pitches. Finished left.
with Francis
Over two days, 12 hours climbing. Quite snowy on the upper rock pitches. Finished left.
with Francis
Hidden 13 Sep, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 6 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
Peter Holder 6 Sep, 2010 AltLd
with Lew13
with Lew13
stevepotter 5 Sep, 2010 - Took the right side up fairly hard ice. Completed in about 8.5 hours from the 3rd bin rather than the bivi option.
with Matt
Took the right side up fairly hard ice. Completed in about 8.5 hours from the 3rd bin rather than the bivi option.
with Matt
John Carney 1 Sep, 2010 - Quite snowy, poor delicate ice in the upper section. Right of rognon finish, excellent finishing gully to top out from!
with Rob Jarvis
Quite snowy, poor delicate ice in the upper section. Right of rognon finish, excellent finishing gully to top out from!
with Rob Jarvis
Hidden 31 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 22 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Matt Bennett 22 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Moved together throughout, climbed left side of Rognon. 8.5hrs climbing
with Lewis Grey
Moved together throughout, climbed left side of Rognon. 8.5hrs climbing
with Lewis Grey
Shaw Brown 19 Aug, 2010 AltLd Bivied at the top of the rock section, fantastic place to be. The Ice arete was the sacriest bit,your only protection to falling off would be for your partner to hopefully jump off the other side!
with loz01
Bivied at the top of the rock section, fantastic place to be. The Ice arete was the sacriest bit,your only protection to falling off would be for your partner to hopefully jump off the other side!
with loz01
stuart34 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S moved together over rock, pitched ice exiting left of original route
with James Monypenny
moved together over rock, pitched ice exiting left of original route
with James Monypenny
Pete Graham ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
with Howard Lawledge
with Howard Lawledge
tumbling wizard ?Aug, 2010 -
with andrew marshall
with andrew marshall
inuklm 13 Jul, 2010 AltLd Wicked route, did in two days with bivi
with David Fernandes, Juha
Wicked route, did in two days with bivi
with David Fernandes, Juha
Neil D 7 Jul, 2010 AltLd rpt
BorisVBlade 7 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Started at 3am in the afternoon and finished the rock section at 9.30pm. Bivied until 2am and finished the snow and ice in the dark taking advantage of the perfect conditions. The sun hit the route as I was halfway through leading the top pitch! Top out at 6.30am
with Neil D
Started at 3am in the afternoon and finished the rock section at 9.30pm. Bivied until 2am and finished the snow and ice in the dark taking advantage of the perfect conditions. The sun hit the route as I was halfway through leading the top pitch! Top out at 6.30am
with Neil D
lost.arrow 6 Jul, 2010 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
with Stu Sherwood
Bristoldave 5 Jul, 2010 Lead With a bivi. Ace route
With a bivi. Ace route
oldgrey 2 Jul, 2010 - A fabulous line, loved it first time I saw it, massively enjoyable (and for me challenging) route. Conditions were pretty wet with a storm stopping us early on the first day, then some slush puppy conditions in the ice sections. But a dream come true.
with Virgil Scott
A fabulous line, loved it first time I saw it, massively enjoyable (and for me challenging) route. Conditions were pretty wet with a storm stopping us early on the first day, then some slush puppy conditions in the ice sections. But a dream come true.
with Virgil Scott
centurion05 ?Jul, 2010 -
Kyuzo ?Jul, 2010 -
CarolineH 5 Jun, 2010 -
basvdploeg ??, 2010 -
thebigeasy ??, 2010 -
Guy Wilson ??, 2010 -
Hidden 30 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 2009 AltLd β
chris m fisher 28 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S 2 days, great route.
with Pete
2 days, great route.
with Pete
Hidden 28 Jul, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 28 Jul, 2009 AltLd
Ally Baba 28 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with R. Mcmurry
with R. Mcmurry
Anders_HP_DK 24 Jul, 2009 Lead
Hidden 14 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
mathquirk 2 Jul, 2009 Lead Beautiful route! From bivi on the plan, thought we'd have to bivi on the ridge too, so we lugged big packs but hit the top at 3pm - much shorter than expected.
with Petter Zachrisson
Beautiful route! From bivi on the plan, thought we'd have to bivi on the ridge too, so we lugged big packs but hit the top at 3pm - much shorter than expected.
with Petter Zachrisson
Bruveris ?Jul, 2009 AltLd
benclimbing ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S Got the first lift up to the Plan de L'Aiguille and sent the route in 1 day. Rock was in perfect condition and there was quite a lot of fixed gear. Ice was soft but not steep. Had to bivi in the top station as we missed the last train down.
with Phil Belcher
Got the first lift up to the Plan de L'Aiguille and sent the route in 1 day. Rock was in perfect condition and there was quite a lot of fixed gear. Ice was soft but not steep. Had to bivi in the top station as we missed the last train down.
with Phil Belcher
Cham32 ?Jul, 2009 - left the Plan D'Aiguille hut 3.30am and topped out at 12.30 - moved fast up the ice ridge and up the L side of the Rognon - big smiles as we passed 2 ropes of aspirant Italian guides who got lost 1/2 way up the rock section in the 1/2 light
left the Plan D'Aiguille hut 3.30am and topped out at 12.30 - moved fast up the ice ridge and up the L side of the Rognon - big smiles as we passed 2 ropes of aspirant Italian guides who got lost 1/2 way up the rock section in the 1/2 light
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 Lead
markfairbank 29 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Superb - the rock climbing was generally easy providing the easiest path is found and we took the rognon via some strange combo of direct and on the right with some fairly steep ice involved. Done over 2 days with bivi, rope damaged in rock fall meant doing most of it with a 25m 1/2 rope. Memorable adventure!
Superb - the rock climbing was generally easy providing the easiest path is found and we took the rognon via some strange combo of direct and on the right with some fairly steep ice involved. Done over 2 days with bivi, rope damaged in rock fall meant doing most of it with a 25m 1/2 rope. Memorable adventure!
SteveMyatt 28 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Overnight. Went off route and tried to take the Rognon direct by mistake: a great piece of Scottish grade 4 ice climbing followed. Ended up escaping off to the right and taking the easy ramp to the top. . . .
with Mark Fairbank
Overnight. Went off route and tried to take the Rognon direct by mistake: a great piece of Scottish grade 4 ice climbing followed. Ended up escaping off to the right and taking the easy ramp to the top. . . .
with Mark Fairbank
Hidden 23 Jun, 2009 AltLd dnf
Niekolaas 23 May, 2009 AltLd O/S Climbed the whole route on crampons, quite a bit of slush-puppy snow. With the fohn wind we were sinking knee deep in the snow!! Entertaining!!
with Jelle
Climbed the whole route on crampons, quite a bit of slush-puppy snow. With the fohn wind we were sinking knee deep in the snow!! Entertaining!!
with Jelle
brockers ??, 2009 AltLd O/S
with CarlZ
with CarlZ
robertporter 6 Aug, 2008 AltLd
felixthelion 2 Aug, 2008 AltLd
tommytuffa 2 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
blouise ?Aug, 2008 -
with James Gordon
with James Gordon
JonHarvey ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Jules C ?Aug, 2008 -
James Gordon ?Aug, 2008 -
Hidden 28 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
laurent 25 Jul, 2008 Lead 9 hours. 1 hour approach. Climb carefull is people are below you. A guy from one party broke his helmet because of a small avalanche of stones caused by a party next to us.
with Sarah
9 hours. 1 hour approach. Climb carefull is people are below you. A guy from one party broke his helmet because of a small avalanche of stones caused by a party next to us.
with Sarah
Misha 25 Jul, 2008 AltLd Plan 7.20 - on route 8.40 - start snow 20.50 - top out 23.15. Went badly off route once leading to lengthy delicate moving together. Crux 5+ pitch seemed pretty straightforward, HS 4b? Ice section straightforward as stepped out. Need to be faster!
Plan 7.20 - on route 8.40 - start snow 20.50 - top out 23.15. Went badly off route once leading to lengthy delicate moving together. Crux 5+ pitch seemed pretty straightforward, HS 4b? Ice section straightforward as stepped out. Need to be faster!
decs 16 Jul, 2008 - We kipped at the top of the rock. Nice route. Not too hard. The hardest rock is perhaps english 4b at a push. The ice we found fine. Didn't place any screws though we carried a few.
with sgl
We kipped at the top of the rock. Nice route. Not too hard. The hardest rock is perhaps english 4b at a push. The ice we found fine. Didn't place any screws though we carried a few.
with sgl
sgl 16 Jul, 2008 AltLd
with duncan
with duncan
Hidden 8 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2008 Lead
jam_rich ?Jul, 2008 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 2nd
hamish2016 ?Jul, 2008 AltLd 10.5 hours from the Aig du Plan. Excellent route.
with chris burn
10.5 hours from the Aig du Plan. Excellent route.
with chris burn
Neil D ?Jul, 2008 AltLd
with Robert Porter
with Robert Porter
Daniel Wicks 29 Jun, 2008 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 29 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Dan Wicks
with Dan Wicks
Rob84 21 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Jim D
with Jim D
nofx ??, 2008 -
rob askew ??, 2008 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2008 Lead dog
Hidden 15 Sep, 2007 -
Hidden 9 Sep, 2007 AltLd
David Horwood 9 Sep, 2007 -
Hidden 28 Aug, 2007 -
Hidden 15 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
tom.e 4 Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S Done in a day (8h50). Went left at the top.
Done in a day (8h50). Went left at the top.
Hidden ?Aug, 2007 Solo
davepc ?Aug, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 26 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Stuart Johnston 26 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Chad123 1 Jul, 2007 AltLd Classic mixed route, with good rock sections, an airy snow arete and even some steep ice to finish. Felt long as was pretty snowy and slow going at the bottom, but then it is 1100m!
with Emily
Classic mixed route, with good rock sections, an airy snow arete and even some steep ice to finish. Felt long as was pretty snowy and slow going at the bottom, but then it is 1100m!
with Emily
IanJackson ?Jul, 2007 Lead O/S Went Left (Scot IV). Lead ice and rock crux. Amazing day. We didnt use ice screws.
with Robeverybody
Went Left (Scot IV). Lead ice and rock crux. Amazing day. We didnt use ice screws.
with Robeverybody
Hidden 14 Sep, 2006 -
Hidden 13 Sep, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 2006 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2006 AltLd
Adam Booth 24 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Roel, Ed Booth
with Roel, Ed Booth
Ed Booth 24 Jul, 2006 AltLd
reg_measures ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Ralph, Timmy
with Ralph, Timmy
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 -
david morse ?Jul, 2006 AltLd bring shit loads of screws if doing in late season. 3 was enough but sketchy. going left at the rognon gives a pitch of scottish 5 ice. easily avoided on the buttress at the top though. mind crevassess at top too especially at 3pm
with chris todd
bring shit loads of screws if doing in late season. 3 was enough but sketchy. going left at the rognon gives a pitch of scottish 5 ice. easily avoided on the buttress at the top though. mind crevassess at top too especially at 3pm
with chris todd
Hidden 30 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 AltLd
Hidden ?Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
beardy mike ??, 2006 AltLd
with Rich Draisey
with Rich Draisey
zero six ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams ??, 2006 Lead dog Did it just after a dump of snow so most of the rock climbing was actually hard mixed climbing. Single push. Brilliant fun.
Did it just after a dump of snow so most of the rock climbing was actually hard mixed climbing. Single push. Brilliant fun.
feilx ?Sep, 2005 -
with Ian Lovatt
with Ian Lovatt
andyinglis ?Aug, 2005 AltLd All sorts of excitment.....
with neil adams
All sorts of excitment.....
with neil adams
dannyboy83 ?Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Welsh Dan
with Welsh Dan
Dave Thompson ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Martin
with Thomas Martin
220bpm ?Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S Bivvied at the half way ledges.
with Dave
Bivvied at the half way ledges.
with Dave
1202alarm ?Jun, 2004 -
with Oil Brown
with Oil Brown
BenTiffin ?Aug, 2003 AltLd dog Nearly wiped out by a house sized boulder on the glacier in the afternoon. Very impressive at the storm which was bout 200m below the start of the ice arete. Went left of the rognon at the top.
with Dan Robinson
Nearly wiped out by a house sized boulder on the glacier in the afternoon. Very impressive at the storm which was bout 200m below the start of the ice arete. Went left of the rognon at the top.
with Dan Robinson
rlade ??, 2003 -
with homer
with homer
csalvage ?Aug, 2002 2nd dnf
with Bryan
with Bryan
tjekel ??, 2001 -
nickdonohue 28 Aug, 2000 AltLd alternating leads / moving together. Avoid being led left on ramps too early (at the start). We did and it took ages to regain the ridge crest.
with Mark McCarthy
alternating leads / moving together. Avoid being led left on ramps too early (at the start). We did and it took ages to regain the ridge crest.
with Mark McCarthy
plain kitten ??, 2000 AltLd VC
VC
Hidden ?Aug, 1999 AltLd
innes ?Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S
with Jim
with Jim
bobelvedere ?Jul, 1999 AltLd
with Jan Mathorne, Henrik Jessen Hansen
with Jan Mathorne, Henrik Jessen Hansen
Jim Walton 8 Aug, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Ed Cartwright
with Ed Cartwright
thomasburley 15 Sep, 1997 Lead O/S
with Chuck Pettigrew
with Chuck Pettigrew
rurp ??, 1997 Lead O/S
stokesrees ??, 1997 AltLd
with Asmus Norveslet
with Asmus Norveslet
Hidden 17 Aug, 1996 Lead O/S
NickJH ?Jul, 1996 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ?Aug, 1995 AltLd Very Cold ice very hard ...not an easy ascent
with Nick
Very Cold ice very hard ...not an easy ascent
with Nick
tompercy 13 Jul, 1995 - 14 hours
with Amos Preminger
14 hours
with Amos Preminger
andy_pemberton ?Jul, 1995 - Fantastic. Found route finding on lower part difficult in places. Bivvied at top of rock - amazing. Upper ice felt 'out there' with two ice screws and unplanned moving together! Went left on ice at top until Jon broke his ice axe pick and we veared back onto rock - seemed to work well.
with Jon Scorer
Fantastic. Found route finding on lower part difficult in places. Bivvied at top of rock - amazing. Upper ice felt 'out there' with two ice screws and unplanned moving together! Went left on ice at top until Jon broke his ice axe pick and we veared back onto rock - seemed to work well.
with Jon Scorer
frost ?Jul, 1994 AltLd
alkira 28 Jun, 1994 -
with kerry atkey
with kerry atkey
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jun, 1994 AltLd
with Nick Williams
with Nick Williams
Hidden ?Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 1993 -
Pete_Frost ?Jul, 1993 AltLd Fell off before I even got on the route whilst climbing soft snow to the foot of the rock section: thought I'd burst a kidney when I hit a rock! Sucked it up and followed my mate to the bivi when a huge storm arrived on the wrong side of the mountain - merci m. Meteo. Snow arete didn't solidify until well after dawn so couldn't do the rognon and went for steep ice on left as the best option. Good fun to lead. My mate got the slush up to the Midi-Plan ridge. Still a brilliant route.
Fell off before I even got on the route whilst climbing soft snow to the foot of the rock section: thought I'd burst a kidney when I hit a rock! Sucked it up and followed my mate to the bivi when a huge storm arrived on the wrong side of the mountain - merci m. Meteo. Snow arete didn't solidify until well after dawn so couldn't do the rognon and went for steep ice on left as the best option. Good fun to lead. My mate got the slush up to the Midi-Plan ridge. Still a brilliant route.
CraigLaurie ??, 1993 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 1992 Lead O/S
Budge ??, 1992 AltLd O/S
with Brian Ottewell
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden ?Sep, 1990 AltLd
pauldrew ?Jul, 1990 AltLd dnf Too early in season and rock section largely snowed up. Climbed part way up lower buttress but went off route and ended up retreating.
with Dominic Leggett, Jim Hart
Too early in season and rock section largely snowed up. Climbed part way up lower buttress but went off route and ended up retreating.
with Dominic Leggett, Jim Hart
Hidden 17 Aug, 1989 AltLd
pingora 13 Aug, 1989 -
AndrewP ?Aug, 1989 AltLd A two day epic complete with bivi in thunderstorm at the top of the ice.
A two day epic complete with bivi in thunderstorm at the top of the ice.
Hidden ?Jul, 1989 -
Guy ?Aug, 1988 AltLd Bivied just below the Rognan after taking too long helping a couple of Spnish climbers.
with The old man
Bivied just below the Rognan after taking too long helping a couple of Spnish climbers.
with The old man
pete johnson ?Aug, 1988 Solo dnf Hit by rock fall. Broken jaw. Smashed teeth. Epic retreat. Benighted. Andy did well to get me down. Lucky to survive!
with Andy Tallant
Hit by rock fall. Broken jaw. Smashed teeth. Epic retreat. Benighted. Andy did well to get me down. Lucky to survive!
with Andy Tallant
Grezza ?Jun, 1988 AltLd lots of spring snow on lower rocks. 2 bivvies with Simon & Pip
with JuJu
lots of spring snow on lower rocks. 2 bivvies with Simon & Pip
with JuJu
Alan James - UKC and UKH 1 Aug, 1987 Solo
Hidden ?Aug, 1987 AltLd
PeteM99 ?Aug, 1985 AltLd O/S
Ali MacDonald 19 Jul, 1985 AltLd dnf Climbed 4 pitches, caught in storm and bivied on ledge. Forced to retreat in morning. Whilst abseiling, Stuart (Spike) Edwards fell and was killed. i continued to abseil to the base of climb, where i was later picked up by rescue helicopter. A very bad day.
with Spike Edwards
Climbed 4 pitches, caught in storm and bivied on ledge. Forced to retreat in morning. Whilst abseiling, Stuart (Spike) Edwards fell and was killed. i continued to abseil to the base of climb, where i was later picked up by rescue helicopter. A very bad day.
with Spike Edwards
Gerard DANTEC ?Jul, 1985 Lead
with Daniel KILLIAN
with Daniel KILLIAN
Hidden ?Oct, 1983 -
John Marsland ?Aug, 1983 -
with Winky and Andrew
with Winky and Andrew
Neil McA 12 Aug, 1982 AltLd
with Steve Hartland
with Steve Hartland
Hidden ?Aug, 1981 Lead
barny ?Jul, 1981 2nd First time in crampons, caught them in my salopettes, nearly fell down the bergschrund! had to go round the crevasse in the ridge, but not difficult. Top hard, steep and icy.
with Geoff Tier
First time in crampons, caught them in my salopettes, nearly fell down the bergschrund! had to go round the crevasse in the ridge, but not difficult. Top hard, steep and icy.
with Geoff Tier
Hidden ?Sep, 1980 -
Hidden ?Aug, 1980 -
Brian Wilderspin 31 Jul, 1980 AltLd O/S
with Pete Thopmson
with Pete Thopmson
mark-abz 31 Jul, 1980 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Pedro50 ??, 1979 AltLd With ANO met in Chamonix. Never again!
With ANO met in Chamonix. Never again!
Nigel Bond 25 Aug, 1978 AltLd
with Stuart Millar
with Stuart Millar
Steve Bell ??, 1977 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?Aug, 1976 AltLd
with John Whittock
with John Whittock
Falko 1 Aug, 1975 AltLd O/S First route in Western Alps
with Peter Brashaw
First route in Western Alps
with Peter Brashaw
Hidden ??, 1974 AltLd
uphillnow ?Aug, 1971 AltLd Had started up this a while before when new snow covered the rock buttress - slow going so descended (with Charlie Tanner). Some days later the snow had gone from the initial rock buttress. Left lift station at 3pm and soloed to foot of snow arete and bivied.Dawn start. Pitched the rognon which was in poor condition - icy rock and crud then soft snow at the very top - but got the first lift down from the Midi station. Partner was a friend of a friend, Neil Lockwood. Neils first snow and ice.
with Neil Lockwood
Had started up this a while before when new snow covered the rock buttress - slow going so descended (with Charlie Tanner). Some days later the snow had gone from the initial rock buttress. Left lift station at 3pm and soloed to foot of snow arete and bivied.Dawn start. Pitched the rognon which was in poor condition - icy rock and crud then soft snow at the very top - but got the first lift down from the Midi station. Partner was a friend of a friend, Neil Lockwood. Neils first snow and ice.
with Neil Lockwood
granitbahn ?Aug, 1971 AltLd
mikej ?Aug, 1969 AltLd
with Jeff Banks, Jerry Young
with Jeff Banks, Jerry Young
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