Rockfax Description
III, 1200m, 1 - 2 days. One of the best routes in Chamonix and a rite of passage for anyone aspiring to the Alps' biggest routes - the Frendo Spur is worth the hype. The proximity of the cable car at both ends means it is often underestimated but demands respect, not least since it requires both rock and ice climbing skills and is difficult to retreat from. For competent teams, it represents a wonderful adventure with the added bonus that there is no descent required - the summit is not halfway on this route! The dilemma faced is whether to take bivouac gear to allow the top ice slopes to be climbed in the cold of the early morning. Climbing the route in one day is easily possible but a bivouac has the added benefit of allowing you to spend the night on a huge alpine face - an experience that is probably worth carrying a few extra kilos for if the weather is good.
Approach - From the Plan de l'Aiguille, follow the path south towards the Glacier des Pélerins. The path ends up on a moraine ridge with the glacier on the right and the west face of the Aiguille du Peigne on the left. Follow the path up the moraine ridge and then cross the glacier where the path runs out above Pointe 2468 and head directly for the spur. There is some serac and rockfall danger on the final section of the approach and at the start of the route, so get established on the initial ramp before stopping for a drink!
1) Cross the small bergschrund onto a right-leaning ramp (snow covered in early season) which leads in turn to a left-slanting ramp/slab. This is steeper than it initially appears and can feel quite tricky when damp.
2) Climb this until it peters out and steepens into a wall, at which point you move rightwards and climb increasingly steep chimneys, heading for the crest of the spur.
3) 5b. The final chimney is steep and is easily identifiable by the jammed block at the top, which is looped with numerous pieces of tat. Climb the chimney relatively easily before making a steep pull out rightwards (5b) around the jammed block and onto an exposed arête. Whether you pull on the tat is up to you - either way it is well protected.
4) Follow the gully above which leads to the crest of the spur.
5) Climb a series of ledges just to the right of the spur, moving left when the rock steepens considerably, to reach a straightforward gully.
6) This leads to an exposed col with stunning views down either side of the spur.
7) 5c. Climb the corner just to the left of the col (5c) for 30m to reach slightly easier but sustained ground just left of the spur.
8) 4b. The easier ground continues for 200m at around 4b up slabs, short corners and ledges.
9) Where the spur steepens again, move left onto the snow slope and climb this (45 degrees) next to the spur to reach the spacious bivouac site and the top of the rock section.
10) The famous snow ridge is stunning but usually unprotectable, so take great care. As it merges with the snow slope above it may be possible to place ice screws, but the first guaranteed protection is at the foot of the rock rognon. It is possible to climb the rognon direct at 6a but most teams now go either left or right of it.
11) Right is marginally shorter and more direct but there is often black ice near the top - check conditions beforehand from the Aiguille du Midi cable car if considering this route. In most conditions, left is a better option and has the added bonus of bolted belays every 50m. The final section of ice is the steepest, at around 70 degrees, before the angle eases off and a snow slope leads to the foot of the Aiguille du Midi ridge.
Descent - Take the lift down. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The long classic ridge summiting next to the telepherique station.

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, Batoux's 100 finest routes in the Mont Blanc massif, ICAS Climbing Club, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50.

im off 05/Oct/17 AltLd

Scottish mixed condition. Started bout 7am. Got to 2nd crux bout 7pm when it got dark. This was a just off vertical open book corner with a bit of thin ice up the corner. 30m. Half way up the ice decided to detach with me on it. Reasonably protected so didn't go far. Andy finished this crux. Battled on in dark to bivi spot by 5am. We were knackered. 2hrs sleep then off to the top. Good fun I think.

with Andy
Little AndyH 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
joe.91 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Great to finally do this in great style, first bin at 7am and topped out in a little under 8hrs. Dubious snow conditions ATM meant we had to pitch the ice rather than move together.

janegallwey 05/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

4th and 5th with bivy

alpinist63 17/Jun/17 AltLd
sanguine ?/Apr/17 AltLd dnf

Late start and route finding problems with pain in the arse snow conditions, coupled with an uncomfortable bivy necessitated a retreat - gutted - have to tick this off next year!

with Jonn
Hidden 30/Mar/17 AltLd dnf
Uisdean hawthorn 20/Mar/17 AltLd
Tom Livingstone 20/Mar/17 AltLd rpt

Winter ascent, first bin to last bin (08.20 to 16.40). Plenty of fresh powder.

Hidden 16/Mar/17 AltLd
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Liam Ingram 08/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Climbed on 7th and 8th. Rock section totally dry but 8 pitches of hard ice after the snow arete slowed us down somewhat.

Oliver Smaje 08/Sep/16 AltLd
Hugh Irving 07/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Bivied at the base, climbed it all in a day. Moved together over all the rock, pitched out a good bit of the ice though. Had to sprint up the midi ridge for the last lift down! Mega route, which puts you in some amazing situations.

George Ponsonby 07/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 02/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Josh Pitman 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Best route I've ever done . . . so far!

alan1234 25/Aug/16 -
Hidden 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
alooker 23/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Finn Curry 23/Aug/16 2nd

Done in 2 days - all rock pitches to bivouac ledge in big boots, then snow and ice pitches on day two. A brilliant route.

with Paul Warnock
Hidden 22/Aug/16 Lead
Paul Collins 21/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

Finally! 6 hours, well happy!

SeánM 20/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

A topo or a route description would have helped a little.

with Rob N
Rob N 20/Aug/16 AltLd
with SeánM
Hidden 19/Aug/16 Solo O/S
James W 19/Aug/16 2nd
with Mark Thomas
Hidden 12/Aug/16 AltLd
matty123 11/Aug/16 AltLd
with Bob Addey
davkeo 08/Aug/16 Solo rpt

2nd day here. Camped on the plan with intention of doing a route on L'M but ended up walking over and back as partner had to bail. So this route was not planned but conditions and weather were good. Used partners crampons and axe. Started rock at 9. Bivi ledge at 11.30. Started arête at 12.15. Top at 1.45. Followed a couple of guides onto harder stuff which was needless. A better way though in terms of climbing. râteau de chèvre was tricky & exposed in boots. Put rock shoes on for higher crux only.

birks3746 02/Aug/16 AltLd

2 day-er. Dry and warm conditions, day 1 was ok but ploddy as you check the topo every 10 seconds. For some reason we didn't change to rock shoes until after the exposed col- don't do this. Aided the hell out of the 1st crux- go right not left of the fallen block. 2nd crux was ok. 8ish hrs. Great bivi if a bit chilly. Day 2; not our speciality, found it tough and pretty harrowing (maybe due to our relative lack of experience on ice/mixed but also thought conditions were v.warm, the easier angled pitches had significantly worse ice, lots of water running underneath, the rocks falling apart (blocks size of fridges ready to fall very easily- be super careful when pulling on anything). 5-6hrs. Very glad to finally top out

with Phil
QuentinSu ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/16 AltLd
Rob Pitt 17/Jul/16 AltLd
with Lee Roberts
Murilo Lessa 15/Jul/16 AltLd
Nikolay C.K. Tjøstheim 15/Jul/16 AltLd β

After a heavy snowfall there was more winter conditions on route. We had are crampons on for the whole route. a great route without a doubt. we used 19 hours on route. this would be faster without the new snowfall!

bencoope 07/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
harry_lewis 07/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

technically easy but mega long

with Matt Groom, Ben Coope
scorpia97 03/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led in 5 long simul pitches and 11 hrs from the plan d'aguille to midi. One of the first ascents of the season, climbed in boots (and crampons when applicable) still a lot of snow on the route but great fun. Full write up:

Hidden ??/2016 -
thomas108 ??/2016 -
Hidden ?/Sep/15 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/15 AltLd
jogle03 13/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
joelevanschamonix 01/Jul/15 AltLd

bin to bin in 8 hours. snow slopes ok, ice melting. hot weather has made top slopes unclimbable

with Tim Oliver
HosteDenis ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/15 AltLd
anthonyjc 30/Jun/15 -

First ever alpine route! 12hrs 30 mins of climbing, with really shitty snow conditions. Great fun! :D

DigitalSteak 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Superb route though very long. Lots of poor snow and ice on the route so hard going but worth having the route to ourselves and the stunning bivi on the top of the spur.

Graeme Barr 18/Jun/15 -
Richard Kendrick ?/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Anthony Campbell
joelevanschamonix ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
davkeo 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Can't believe I got to do this on first alpine trip. What an experience shared with 2 sound English lads. Rock was long but easy. Moved together. Only difficult part was the crux which was harder than expected in boots and with backpack. Led crux and all ice pitches. Arête was exposed and fantastic. Bivied on ledge which added to the whole deal. Good laugh and enjoyable all the way.

hoppojoe7 10/Sep/14 2nd O/S

flanked around glacia to the left. should have gone directly up glacial towards start of the route. very little snow on rock section, found route ok. easy climbing with boots. bivvy'd before snow field left hand side of ridge. woke early to benefit from frozen ice section to the top. exited left of rock roagon.

alexm198 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Left the bivvy at the Plan de l'Aiguille at 1am, climbed through the night in a single 9 hour push. Only brought two screws so leading the steep ice at the top was emotionally taxing.

Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd
Hidden 06/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/14 -
Hidden 03/Sep/14 AltLd
planetmarshall 03/Sep/14 AltLd

So very, very long... Fantastic though. Planned bivouac far short of the top of the rock section. Climbed in big boots, a lot of mixed ground near the top of the rock section climbed Scottish style with axes and crampons.

Hidden ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/14 AltLd rpt
Little AndyH 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Roberttaylor 08/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Over two days

tebs 06/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Set off up the rock v late in the afternoon on the 5th thanks to lift chaos. Poor vis hail and rain. 5 hours ish to the top of the rock moving together. Amazing bivi and smashed out the ice in the morning. 2 hrs bivi to midi. 2nd breakfast on top. Best weather of the trip and stunning route.

Hidden 06/Aug/14 AltLd
David Staples 06/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Over a day with perfect conditions.

Hidden 05/Aug/14 Lead
Palindrome 05/Aug/14 2nd

Did it over two days with big boots all the way.

Edvenables ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing! Rock part went really well, went right (wrongly) at the end though so Rob smashed an E1 chimney/corner crack combo. Hauled my sack so I could do it in style. Solid bivvy ledge, but an overnight downpour resulted in a miserable few hours 'sleep'. Set off an hour earlier than planned (3) in an attempt to warm up - cold conditions meant perfect neve! Sketchy snow ridge led to a final perfect ice pitch. Will climb again.

with Robert Taylor
Paul Collins ?/Aug/14 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd dnf
Mr. K 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Set off in the afternoon of Sunday 27th, one bivvy near the top of the rock buttress. Route was in great condition, we climbed all the rock in rock shoes. I lead the exposed flake pitch which was amazing, Masa did the 5b crux and a lot of pitches in the dark as the day went on! The snow arête and exit snow slopes were in great condition early morning, pretty stepped out so we were happy moving together and only pitching the 80 degree crux ice pitch.

masa-alpin 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Took a cable car at 12:50(!), and started climbing at 3pm (we must have taken a wrong approach). Climbed the old F5b crux pitch in the last light, and climbed on in the dark (new moon) till immediately before the bivvy spot at 00:45 am, miraculously managing the non-trivial route-finding. Took an hour sleep at the sloping bivvy ledge, getting up at 4:30am, setting off the bivvy at 6:15am for the final rock pitch and nicely-frozen snow/ice climb, and topped out at around 9:30am. The best alpine route I have done so far!

with Mr. K
ndraper1 19/Jul/14 -

Climbed superb conditions. Pitched where we needed to, route finding was pretty straightforward. Bivied at a ledge(10m ab) 50m before exposed snow saddle. Amazing views and a big wall feel! Climbed the snow and ice in near perfect cons, recommend double cams .75-3 and double nuts as this helped us move well. A well deserved complete mountaineering 3* classic.

with Joel Evans
joelevanschamonix 18/Jul/14 AltLd

Climbed over two days. warm rock on day one and firm snow on day 2. great condition

Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
danny269 ?/Jul/14 AltLd

set off after lunch, bivied before normal spot, finished in a lightening storm with axes singing.

with Stan
Hidden 24/Jun/14 -
benkelsey 22/Jun/14 AltLd β

Underestimated the amount/quality of the snow and had to keep changing footwear. I lead a few pitches of scottish IV on mixed ground (slow) then Pete did first actual Crux, then very slow up the snowy spur: it got dark around 300m before our planned bivi ledge. I lead 5 pitches in the dark where we spent a surprisingly comfy few hours in a hole-cum-ledge. Aided a 7m corner (probably E2 at sea level in rock boots) before breakfast then onto the snow which took 4/5 hours with a cheeky brew on our planned bivi ledge. total time: 25 hours, conditions: poor collapsing deep snow, weather: wall to wall sunshine fading to sleet and fog, climbing: every single style. Quality route, will come back in summer connies to do it in a respectable time. Nice effort from Pete powering through extreme tiredness like a boss

pete1993 22/Jun/14 AltLd β

EPIC route, started at lunchtime on the 21st thinking it'd be plain sailing up to the normal bivy we were wrong. Large amounts of snow on the route still which had turned into a wet slushy collapsing mess, making going very slow in either rock boots or b3's! it got dark just below the higher rock crux pitch, which ben absolutely cruised, carried on in the dark until 1.30 where we stopped and bivvied on a small ledge/hole, carried on in the morning getting to the normal bivy ledge at 10, brewed up there and pressed on up the snow arete which was in ace condition and flew by, then went left round the rognon on absolutely perfect plasticy ice, took 4 60m rope lengths to finally top out at 14.50 on the 22nd, absolutely stunning route which i definitely underestimated, cracking job by ben pulling us through it!

Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Gordon Lacey 05/Sep/13 AltLd
Scott Rankin 05/Sep/13 AltLd
simondunf 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

bivied by the plan d'aiguille, cruising along until my lack of acclimatisation caught up on the ice slopes. fantastic day

with caspar
Hidden 02/Sep/13 AltLd
HimTiggins 23/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Carla, Danny
luckyjim 14/Aug/13 AltLd

Bivvied at the narrow col..spectacular rockfall during the night!

with D Helm
adamwesthead 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Set off in afternoon and bivyed when the cloud came down. Awful night and did not sleep a bit as just down jacket and space blanket which disintegrated after about an hour of me fidgeting. End up sleeping with feet in rucksack hugging each other trying to stay warm and pacing about every hour. Next day straight forward but long. Underestimated the length of the Ice section. 60m ice pitch with two dodgy screws was a bit scary.

with Hoult
Murilo Lessa 06/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Epic! Climbed over 2 days as our acclimatisation. Second day under total storm: tropical rain, snow, windy, thunders, lightnings, the whole shebang... aff...

with stew
Bruce S 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Paul Collins ?/Aug/13 AltLd dnf


robgixer ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
mcgovern ?/Aug/13 AltLd


Michael 23/Jul/13 -
np134 21/Jul/13 AltLd
with TRFrost
TRFrost 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with np134
r_o_b_h2 15/Jul/13 AltLd

Over two days, 7hrs rock, 4hrs ice and went left at the top at scottish 3. Bit slow and heavy overall but amazing route and cracking bivi spot.

with Nik Goile
Hidden 15/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 06/Jul/13 AltLd
Mike Hood 06/Jul/13 AltLd
Nelson Pelson ?/Jul/13 -
Ben Briggs ?/May/13 -

Ski descent with 200m of rappels.

with Luca
jcw ??/2013 -
James Thacker ??/2013 -
walts4 ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2013 AltLd rpt
with Nick
Tom Livingstone 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Boshed the rock in 3 hours! Ice was shit but managed fine

with Ollie B
Ollie B 21/Aug/12 -

Rock took 3 hours. Ice took 4 as it was in very poor and icey condition

with T.Livinstone
Ewan Russell 14/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Did the rock section really quick and were moving slowly on the ice so thought we would use the original finish. Bit of a mistake really ended up doing an a1 pitch, a one legged offwidth, scottish III/IV ice pitch and exciting mixed. When I got down was sick and are still feeling awful really lucky I managed to get the last lift down would have been bad to have spend the night up there.

with Rockley
Rockley 14/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

See below, last lift was a godsend @ 7.30pm

Hidden 02/Aug/12 AltLd
davebrox 10/Jul/12 AltLd β
with rocio
Ken Applegate 04/Jul/12 AltLd

Great route! Started at 3pm, rained on at 7pm on the first day, meaning a bivi much sooner than we'd hoped for.

with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden ?/Jul/12 -
Hidden ?/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Owain Llewelyn 26/Jun/12 AltLd
with Ed
sacdenouilles 24/Jun/12 AltLd

The usual epic avec Jean Francois. Can be done in a day by younger people. Can be done in a very long day by a sexagenarian and his young friend. Summited at 8 pm as weather was getting a bit nasty. Bivouac at the station.

with J F Philippe
Merlin 23/Jun/12 2nd

Climbed in two days. Cruxes seem to be understated on most accounts, found them harder than 'VS' and frequent. Getting around the Rognon took five pitches, not the expected three. Good route, although lacks line as the route wanders. The whole thing is also essentially a pile of choss. I'm surprised more people don't get hurt or killed by rockfall. So if it's on your tick list do it now because it's falling down!

with Mark Patterson
mark88 23/Jun/12 Lead

Well, I thought it was great!

with Merlin Andrew
darcan ??/2012 AltLd
with chris bailey
Hidden 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Si ?/Oct/11 -
Hidden 07/Sep/11 AltLd dnf
Drew M ?/Sep/11 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/11 AltLd
reima 12/Aug/11 AltLd

Went a few times gloriously off-route and bivvied on the best ledge we could find in the white-out, which obviously wasn't the usual place. Steep ice bit turned out to be so well travelled that a comparison to ladders would be in place.

with Niamh
Hidden 10/Aug/11 AltLd
Dave Searle 10/Aug/11 Solo

Great day, super fun. 2hours 25mins from the bergshrund to the midi plan ridge. (Sorry Greg) Perfect conditions at the moment.

Dave Searle 10/Aug/11 Solo

Great day, super fun. 2hours 25mins from the bergshrund to the midi plan ridge. (Sorry Greg) Perfect conditions at the moment.

Greg Boswell 02/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 -
Hidden 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
nvalentine760 16/Jul/11 AltLd
Alexandre Buisse 16/Jul/11 AltLd

In a day from the hut. Did the entire rock in stickies, good ice on the left exit of the rognon. Stunning climb!

gilmour_789 12/Jul/11 AltLd
with RKernan
RKernan 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

13 hrs in all, bad snow conditions on the arete and upper section slowed us down and we were extra careful after the accident the previous week

twright180 11/Jul/11 -
with John McCune
sarpedon 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Easy 2 day climb with Floris. Day 1, 5 hours in the afternoon to the bivy. Day 2: another 5 hours to the top. Took the left exit to finish the route, climb ever steepening ice with the final crux pitch of 80degree ice that then became rotten nevee as the angle eased.

Lenny 05/Jul/11 AltLd dnf
with Paul
garethsteel 04/Jul/11 AltLd

Started late on the 3rd at about 1700. Ended up going too far L and a bit off route, necessitating a slightly uncomfortable bivi. Also managed to find a narrow couloir with some ice going at about Scottish 5. Avoided the rock rognon at the top via the ice on the R. About 200m of reasonable quality ice, though we had only 3 screws for protecton. Overall great route.

Hidden 04/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
liamo333 ??/2011 -

9 hours, top class route.

Luke Brooks 22/Sep/10 AltLd

Over two days, 12 hours climbing. Quite snowy on the upper rock pitches. Finished left.

with Francis
Hidden 13/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 06/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Peter Holder 06/Sep/10 AltLd
with Lew13
stevepotter 05/Sep/10 -

Took the right side up fairly hard ice. Completed in about 8.5 hours from the 3rd bin rather than the bivi option.

with Matt
John Carney 01/Sep/10 -

Quite snowy, poor delicate ice in the upper section. Right of rognon finish, excellent finishing gully to top out from!

with Rob Jarvis
Hidden 31/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Matt Bennett 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Moved together throughout, climbed left side of Rognon. 8.5hrs climbing

with Lewis Grey
Shaw Brown 19/Aug/10 AltLd

Bivied at the top of the rock section, fantastic place to be. The Ice arete was the sacriest bit,your only protection to falling off would be for your partner to hopefully jump off the other side!

with loz01
stuart34 04/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

moved together over rock, pitched ice exiting left of original route

with James Monypenny
Pete Graham ?/Aug/10 AltLd
with Howard Lawledge
tumbling wizard ?/Aug/10 -
with andrew marshall
inuklm 13/Jul/10 AltLd

Wicked route, did in two days with bivi

with David Fernandes, Juha
Neil D 07/Jul/10 AltLd rpt
BorisVBlade 07/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Started at 3am in the afternoon and finished the rock section at 9.30pm. Bivied until 2am and finished the snow and ice in the dark taking advantage of the perfect conditions. The sun hit the route as I was halfway through leading the top pitch! Top out at 6.30am

with Neil D
lost.arrow 06/Jul/10 AltLd
with Stu Sherwood
Bristoldave 05/Jul/10 Lead

With a bivi. Ace route

oldgrey 02/Jul/10 -

A fabulous line, loved it first time I saw it, massively enjoyable (and for me challenging) route. Conditions were pretty wet with a storm stopping us early on the first day, then some slush puppy conditions in the ice sections. But a dream come true.

with Virgil Scott
centurion05 ?/Jul/10 -
Kyuzo ?/Jul/10 -
CarolineH 05/Jun/10 -
basvdploeg ??/2010 -
thebigeasy ??/2010 -
Guy Wilson ??/2010 -
Hidden 30/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/09 AltLd β
Hidden 28/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 28/Jul/09 AltLd
Ally Baba 28/Jul/09 AltLd
with R. Mcmurry
Anders_HP_DK 24/Jul/09 Lead
Hidden 14/Jul/09 Lead O/S
mathquirk 02/Jul/09 Lead

Beautiful route! From bivi on the plan, thought we'd have to bivi on the ridge too, so we lugged big packs but hit the top at 3pm - much shorter than expected.

with Petter Zachrisson
Bruveris ?/Jul/09 AltLd
benclimbing ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Got the first lift up to the Plan de L'Aiguille and sent the route in 1 day. Rock was in perfect condition and there was quite a lot of fixed gear. Ice was soft but not steep. Had to bivi in the top station as we missed the last train down.

with Phil Belcher
Cham32 ?/Jul/09 -

left the Plan D'Aiguille hut 3.30am and topped out at 12.30 - moved fast up the ice ridge and up the L side of the Rognon - big smiles as we passed 2 ropes of aspirant Italian guides who got lost 1/2 way up the rock section in the 1/2 light

Hidden ?/Jul/09 Lead
markfairbank 29/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Superb - the rock climbing was generally easy providing the easiest path is found and we took the rognon via some strange combo of direct and on the right with some fairly steep ice involved. Done over 2 days with bivi, rope damaged in rock fall meant doing most of it with a 25m 1/2 rope. Memorable adventure!

SteveMyatt 28/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Overnight. Went off route and tried to take the Rognon direct by mistake: a great piece of Scottish grade 4 ice climbing followed. Ended up escaping off to the right and taking the easy ramp to the top. . . .

with Mark Fairbank
Hidden 23/Jun/09 AltLd dnf
Niekolaas 23/May/09 AltLd O/S

Climbed the whole route on crampons, quite a bit of slush-puppy snow. With the fohn wind we were sinking knee deep in the snow!! Entertaining!!

with Jelle
brockers ??/2009 AltLd O/S
with CarlZ
robertporter 06/Aug/08 AltLd
felixthelion 02/Aug/08 AltLd
tommytuffa 02/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
blouise ?/Aug/08 -
with James Gordon
JonHarvey ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Jules C ?/Aug/08 -
James Gordon ?/Aug/08 -
Hidden 28/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
laurent 25/Jul/08 Lead

9 hours. 1 hour approach. Climb carefull is people are below you. A guy from one party broke his helmet because of a small avalanche of stones caused by a party next to us.

with Sarah
Misha 25/Jul/08 AltLd

Plan 7.20 - on route 8.40 - start snow 20.50 - top out 23.15. Went badly off route once leading to lengthy delicate moving together. Crux 5+ pitch seemed pretty straightforward, HS 4b? Ice section straightforward as stepped out. Need to be faster!

decs 16/Jul/08 -

We kipped at the top of the rock. Nice route. Not too hard. The hardest rock is perhaps english 4b at a push. The ice we found fine. Didn't place any screws though we carried a few.

with sgl
sgl 16/Jul/08 AltLd
with duncan
Hidden 08/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/08 Lead
jam_rich ?/Jul/08 -
Hidden ?/Jul/08 2nd
hamish2016 ?/Jul/08 AltLd

10.5 hours from the Aig du Plan. Excellent route.

with chris burn
Neil D ?/Jul/08 AltLd
with Robert Porter
Daniel Wicks 29/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 29/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Dan Wicks
Rob84 21/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Jim D
nofx ??/2008 -
rob askew ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden ??/2008 Lead dog
Hidden 15/Sep/07 -
Hidden 09/Sep/07 AltLd
David Horwood 09/Sep/07 -
Hidden 28/Aug/07 -
Hidden 15/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
tom.e 04/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

Done in a day (8h50). Went left at the top.

Hidden ?/Aug/07 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Stuart Johnston 26/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Chad123 01/Jul/07 AltLd

Classic mixed route, with good rock sections, an airy snow arete and even some steep ice to finish. Felt long as was pretty snowy and slow going at the bottom, but then it is 1100m!

with Emily
IanJackson ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Went Left (Scot IV). Lead ice and rock crux. Amazing day. We didnt use ice screws.

with Robeverybody
Hidden 14/Sep/06 -
Hidden 13/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
Adam Booth 24/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Roel, Ed Booth
Ed Booth 24/Jul/06 AltLd
reg_measures ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Ralph, Timmy
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
david morse ?/Jul/06 AltLd

bring shit loads of screws if doing in late season. 3 was enough but sketchy. going left at the rognon gives a pitch of scottish 5 ice. easily avoided on the buttress at the top though. mind crevassess at top too especially at 3pm

with chris todd
Hidden 30/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 AltLd
with Rich Draisey
zero six ??/2006 AltLd O/S
Neil Adams ??/2006 Lead dog

Did it just after a dump of snow so most of the rock climbing was actually hard mixed climbing. Single push. Brilliant fun.

feilx ?/Sep/05 -
with Ian Lovatt
andyinglis ?/Aug/05 AltLd

All sorts of excitment.....

with neil adams
dannyboy83 ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with Welsh Dan
Dave Thompson ??/2005 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Martin
220bpm ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

Bivvied at the half way ledges.

with Dave
1202alarm ?/Jun/04 -
BenTiffin ?/Aug/03 AltLd dog

Nearly wiped out by a house sized boulder on the glacier in the afternoon. Very impressive at the storm which was bout 200m below the start of the ice arete. Went left of the rognon at the top.

with Dan Robinson
rlade ??/2003 -
with homer
csalvage ?/Aug/02 2nd dnf
with Bryan
tjekel ??/2001 -
nickdonohue 28/Aug/00 AltLd

alternating leads / moving together. Avoid being led left on ramps too early (at the start). We did and it took ages to regain the ridge crest.

with Mark McCarthy
plain kitten ??/2000 AltLd


Hidden ?/Aug/99 AltLd
innes ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with Jim
bobelvedere ?/Jul/99 AltLd
with Jan Mathorne, Henrik Jessen Hansen
Jim Walton 08/Aug/98 AltLd O/S
with Ed Cartwright
thomasburley 15/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Chuck Pettigrew
rurp ??/1997 Lead O/S
stokesrees ??/1997 AltLd
with Asmus Norveslet
Hidden 17/Aug/96 Lead O/S
NickJH ?/Jul/96 Lead O/S
Tony Kartawick ?/Aug/95 AltLd

Very Cold ice very hard ...not an easy ascent

with Nick
tompercy 13/Jul/95 -

14 hours

with Amos Preminger
andy_pemberton ?/Jul/95 -

Fantastic. Found route finding on lower part difficult in places. Bivvied at top of rock - amazing. Upper ice felt 'out there' with two ice screws and unplanned moving together! Went left on ice at top until Jon broke his ice axe pick and we veared back onto rock - seemed to work well.

with Jon Scorer
frost ?/Jul/94 AltLd
alkira 28/Jun/94 -
with kerry atkey
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost ?/Jul/93 AltLd

Fell off before I even got on the route whilst climbing soft snow to the foot of the rock section: thought I'd burst a kidney when I hit a rock! Sucked it up and followed my mate to the bivi when a huge storm arrived on the wrong side of the mountain - merci m. Meteo. Snow arete didn't solidify until well after dawn so couldn't do the rognon and went for steep ice on left as the best option. Good fun to lead. My mate got the slush up to the Midi-Plan ridge. Still a brilliant route.

CraigLaurie ??/1993 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/92 Lead O/S
Budge ??/1992 AltLd O/S
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden ?/Sep/90 AltLd
pauldrew ?/Jul/90 AltLd dnf

Too early in season and rock section largely snowed up. Climbed part way up lower buttress but went off route and ended up retreating.

with Dominic Leggett, Jim Hart
Hidden 17/Aug/89 AltLd
pingora 13/Aug/89 -
AndrewP ?/Aug/89 AltLd

A two day epic complete with bivi in thunderstorm at the top of the ice.

Hidden ?/Jul/89 -
Guy ?/Aug/88 AltLd

Bivied just below the Rognan after taking too long helping a couple of Spnish climbers.

with The old man
Grezza ?/Jun/88 AltLd

lots of spring snow on lower rocks. 2 bivvies with Simon & Pip

with JuJu
Alan James - UKC and UKH 01/Aug/87 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/87 AltLd
Ali MacDonald 19/Jul/85 AltLd dnf

Climbed 4 pitches, caught in storm and bivied on ledge. Forced to retreat in morning. Whilst abseiling, Stuart (Spike) Edwards fell and was killed. i continued to abseil to the base of climb, where i was later picked up by rescue helicopter. A very bad day.

with Spike Edwards
Gerard DANTEC ?/Jul/85 Lead
with Daniel KILLIAN
Hidden ?/Oct/83 -
John Marsland ?/Aug/83 -
with Winky and Andrew
Neil McA 12/Aug/82 AltLd
with Steve Hartland
Hidden ?/Aug/81 Lead
barny ?/Jul/81 2nd

First time in crampons, caught them in my salopettes, nearly fell down the bergschrund! had to go round the crevasse in the ridge, but not difficult. Top hard, steep and icy.

with Geoff Tier
Hidden ?/Sep/80 -
Hidden ?/Aug/80 -
Brian Wilderspin 31/Jul/80 AltLd O/S
with Pete Thopmson
mark-abz ?/Jul/80 AltLd
Hidden ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Pedro50 ??/1979 AltLd

With ANO met in Chamonix. Never again!

Nigel Bond 25/Aug/78 AltLd
with Stuart Millar
Steve Bell ??/1977 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Aug/76 AltLd
with John Whittock
Falko 01/Aug/75 AltLd O/S

First route in Western Alps

with Peter Brashaw
Hidden ??/1974 AltLd
uphillnow ?/Aug/71 AltLd

Had started up this a while before when new snow covered the rock buttress - slow going so descended (with Charlie Tanner). Some days later the snow had gone from the initial rock buttress. Left lift station at 3pm and soloed to foot of snow arete and bivied.Dawn start. Pitched the rognon which was in poor condition - icy rock and crud then soft snow at the very top - but got the first lift down from the Midi station. Partner was a friend of a friend, Neil Lockwood. Neils first snow and ice.

with Neil Lockwood
granitbahn ?/Aug/71 AltLd
mikej ?/Aug/69 AltLd
with Jeff Banks, Jerry Young
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