Climb a tiny groove to an undercut at 4m. Pull onto the wall and gain large holds. Head for the lower-off of Little M.

Gordon Jenkin 1992

Ticklists: Road to 7a, cheddar, The road to paradise lost.

Trisha Murphy 28/Aug/17 Lead rpt
with Jake
WillAndrew 05/Aug/17 Lead G/U
with Cara
kenneM 03/Aug/17 Lead β
Jimbob64 02/Jul/17 Lead RP
with Jim
Euan Todd 24/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Worth doing, good climbing! Crux involved very high spanned feet. Was really suffering from sore skin from earlier! 6b+ seems fair.

with Digga
andy dunn 21/Jun/17 Lead
with J
duncan 17/Jun/17 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Jun/17 Lead dnf
Fakey Rocks 11/Jun/17 Lead RP

Missed the 2nd slap 1st go, got it on the 2nd. Nearly decked out falling from by b3.... strange! Hard, but not as hard as the 6a+! start on 12000 miles, which i tried but didn't have time for.

with Stef
Fakey Rocks 01/Jun/17 Lead dog

Found it quite tough, clipped up to bolt 3 but had to work passing it, around 7 hangs on the bolt. Settled for couple of lock off n slaps, with poor footholds used, 6b+ in guide, good to see it's been voted up to 6c on here. Not today by red point, last route today tho, so leaving it.

with chris85
CasualLime 19/May/17 Lead O/S
with Matteo Bisato, Rob Creer
Lilypopskeal 14/May/17 Lead dog
ABeadle 29/Mar/17 Lead dnf
Dexter JW 28/Mar/17 Lead G/U
M1V0 28/Mar/17 Lead G/U

Very specific foot sequence that threw me on the first go or two.

elliptic 25/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Dawn
royle883 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

Clean top rope, fell off the slap on lead

Steve Jehu 12/Sep/16 2nd
Hidden 12/Sep/16 Lead dog
Beefy Bert 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Digga 17/Jul/16 Lead

Beware of loose hanger on second bolt, worth checking before clipping!

Zakko 03/Jul/16 Lead RP

Pretty sweet route.

Wood for Trees 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with chris barr
Chris_barr 18/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Guy
Joe Mathers 07/Jun/16 Lead
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead rpt
Hmgslade 15/May/16 2nd
with Jack
julesmckim 03/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Ben Woodcock
lukehodson 10/Oct/15 Lead rpt
James_L88 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Kat Day
Nick Russell 11/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Emily
Emily 11/Sep/15 Lead RP

Solved it this time! Decided to dispense with the pratting around trying to get in balance on bad holds and bad feet, and replace it with one powerful move up to the good crimp. Shouldn't really be surprised that this was more my style than what I was trying to do before. It worked the first time I attempted this from the ground, and didn't even feel that hard.

with Nick
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead RP
Hmgslade 06/Sep/15 2nd
with Jack
Nick Russell 22/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Emily
Emily 22/Aug/15 Lead dog

Umpty-eleven times up. I definitely did all the moves but couldn't make it all the way through the hard section using my whole sequence. Unsure if that's because something doesn't quite work or if I was just out of energy by the time I'd figured it out. Next time, maybe?

with Nick
LucasHarazin 21/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Andy
Wise 21/Aug/15 Lead β
with Lucas
paul reah 16/Aug/15 Lead RP

Great moves low down, one hard reachy move especially for my tyrannosaurs arms!

Josh Hadley 16/Aug/15 Lead RP
Nick Russell 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

A hard move for 6b+ but only one of them.

Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead dog
lukehodson 07/Jun/15 Lead rpt
mikedevcole 16/May/15 Lead β

6b+ in the guide

tommy.henriksson78 18/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with steve_gibbs
steve_gibbs 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Tommy Henriksson
sideshow84 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

As the book says slap and go, prob abit soft for 6c

Rp20 ??/2015 Lead
thomas108 ??/2015 -
duncan 14/Oct/14 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
iantoday 07/Sep/14 Lead dog

hard in the middle section

with Jamie Parffrey, Darren LeMarquand
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 29/Jul/14 TR dog
with pete belfield
Kris suriyo 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
DaveX 09/Jul/14 Lead rpt
afrosam 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Dan Hostford 29/Jun/14 Lead dnf
Maddie 29/Jun/14 Lead dog

Tried several times to link it but couldn't

with LSMC lot, Mike V, remus, Dennis999
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Rich153 06/Jun/14 Lead dnf
with Benjumin Tyekiff
Gibbo 20/May/14 Lead dog
with Ollie Keynes
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead
will_benfold 16/Mar/14 Lead dog
RichyBOYY 01/Mar/14 Lead
Lazytraveller 01/Mar/14 Lead RP

Clean after 3 goes, first 6C

onlyfoddington 02/Feb/14 Lead RP

Took me a few goes on lead to figure the starting move and the crux, then later found an easier way to do it (be tall). I think I got it on my 4th redpoint attempt.

with Steve R
stevorobs3 02/Feb/14 Lead RP
jiggerypokery ??/2014 Lead
Rosea Day ??/2014 Lead rpt
Phil Murray 05/Oct/13 Lead dog

Close this time. I'll be back....

with Steve Wright
Hidden 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Gibbo 06/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Jimbo Latimer
tom169 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Tim O
DorsetGareth 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Pete
Gibbo 18/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison
Chloe 04/Jul/13 Lead RP
wurzelinzummerset 18/Mar/13 2nd dnf

Did the moves up to the bulgy bit with lots of rests, but decided to save my fingers and lowered off.

with Ric
bonelessivar 18/Mar/13 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Jan/13 TR dog
Danny_boulders ??/2013 Lead RP
with Paul Norris, Robin O'Leary
arandall 28/Aug/12 Lead dog
benkelsey 28/Aug/12 Lead


Hidden 24/Jul/12 Lead rpt
just one more 09/Jun/12 Lead
with martin lancaster
Hidden 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Felt tricky for the guidebook grade (f6b+) only one hard move really though.

with Ben
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
elliptic 25/May/12 Lead dog

Faffed too long on the crux holds... and melted off embarrassingly.

with Lisa
jon westaway 20/May/12 TR
with vix machin, Paul Matthews, Rick
mol 19/May/12 Lead
with Jesse
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
jameswhitty 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Rich
Kevster 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
lukehodson 02/Oct/11 Lead rpt
lukehodson 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Little Tom
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
elliptic 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Lisa
lojant 14/Aug/11 Lead dog
with Pawel Gregorczyk
katherinesydney 03/Aug/11 2nd dog

feet slipped off the crux repeatedly - so frustrating! worked fine once i was stood on the right bits

with jonny kelly, alan kerr
Bates 29/Jun/11 Lead RP
Marti999 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Quarryboy 01/Jun/11 Lead β

Rob had a go and fell off the crux a few times. I felt like I had a pretty good idea of how to do it before setting off. When I got to the crux I made a small foot adjustment that Rob missed which made the sequence work first time.

Stanley 01/Jun/11 TR dog
Stanners 01/Jun/11 Lead RP

struggled figuring out the crux the first couple of times, after that I managed to put enough effort in to get to the top.

with Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
PeterDawson 29/May/11 Lead O/S
ericinbristol 29/May/11 Lead RP
with James G
paulnc 21/May/11 Lead
with Pirow
marcduhig 17/Apr/11 Lead dog

Found real hard to gain LH ledge with bad foot holds.

with Charlie
Ade7 17/Apr/11 Lead RP

Polished bottom half then easy top.

with Stewart
Didymus 04/Apr/11 Lead RP

3rd try; very cold wind meant I hardly used any chalk

with Nick
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead dog
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead RP
Jack R-N 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Ricky Rocks 13/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with rich smith
oggles ??/2011 -
Luke Dawson 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Gareth Bowen 01/Sep/10 Lead dog
Hidden 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Kap 08/Aug/10 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Caspian Johnson 01/Aug/10 Lead dog
with Jamie
gnarlyboi 14/Jun/10 Lead RP
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Si dH 25/May/10 Lead dog

Going dark and couldn't see footholds before getting too pumped to do the move. Cruxy.

with Jim R, Andy Morris
Hidden 23/May/10 Lead dog
Hidden 20/May/10 Lead RP
Bristoldave 20/May/10 Lead O/S
with eleri
tommytuffa 11/May/10 Lead
with James R
Bonkers Dog 18/Apr/10 Lead dog

F6b+ in new Cheddar Gruiebook

Hidden 22/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol ??/2010 Lead O/S
Kev Little ??/2010 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 25/Oct/09 Lead dog
with Clare
bpmclimb 25/Oct/09 TR rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 25/Oct/09 2nd
goddamm7 25/Oct/09 Lead
with Sandrex
bpmclimb 28/Sep/09 Lead dog
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 28/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep/09 Lead rpt
andy dunn 06/Sep/09 Lead dog

end of a days climbing - couldn't quite get the moves. Will go next time.

with J
Dan_Carroll 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Eric Herring
tombeasley 21/Jun/09 Lead RP

2nd go

with Chris, John, Anya
AJM 28/May/09 Lead β

First 6c flash. Good moves.

with Tom Stedall
Hidden 04/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 04/May/09 Lead O/S
Master Chief 04/Mar/09 Lead dog

Rested on gear before crux move!

with Nick
JPGR 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
ian d f ??/2009 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 21/Nov/08 Lead dog

Painfully cold fingers. Weighted the rope, but then it went fairly easily.

with Clare
Chubbard 10/Aug/08 Lead dog

Dogged to the top in the rain.

Steerpike 06/Aug/08 Lead dog
with Huw
james.f.williamson 29/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Jess & Chris
sinbad 04/Jun/08 Lead
Dan Jenkin ??/2008 Lead
with Gordon Jenkin
Paul Robertson 04/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with Paz
Paz 04/Nov/07 Lead rpt
with PR
_m.cox_ ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 21/Aug/07 Lead dnf
just one more 04/Jul/07 Lead dog
with tim b
richiebongo 20/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Tanya Scully
guy xavier percival 28/May/07 Lead O/S
with mark
Hidden ?/May/07 Lead O/S
LC ?/May/07 Lead O/S
just one more 29/Apr/07 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
chris sm 22/Apr/07 Lead dog
with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ??/2007 -
Paz 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with SI
sdi 29/Oct/06 2nd
with Paz
westyb3 ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
just one more 10/Aug/06 Lead
with tim b
John Southworth ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Jason Parker
just one more 01/May/05 Lead
with Max B
just one more 15/Apr/05 Lead
with tim b
Paul Robertson ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Mark Courtiour
Hidden 23/Mar/05 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Nov/04 -
just one more 13/Nov/04 Lead
with rich a, tim b, Svenn G
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High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set