Rockfax Description
Exhilarating and exposed climbing up the thin crack in the leaning headwall. Start on the small ledge as for Tree Root.
Climb 3m above the belay and then move right to a ledge. Climb the wall just left of a narrow corner to the midway break. Step left and make a committing move to a huge jug. Jam the finger-crack above to another good hold and bomber gear at its top. Step left to a ramp and force the final wall, moving right to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
One of the best pitches in the area taking the center of the impending wall at the quarries highest point. From the steep slab at the base of the wall mantle onto a ledge at head height and move up leftwards on large flat holds but without much gear to a peg at the horizontal break. Make a steep move to a jug and continue up the finger crack above to another good hold at its top. Step left and move up and then right to finish.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

kennythescot 13/May/17 Lead O/S

Very nice route, gear is good, there are some rests before the top out

with Rich Mackie
felixwilkins 26/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Brian H 20/Nov/16 2nd rpt

Led in early 1990s.

Hidden 21/Jul/16 2nd
alice fuller ?/Jul/16 TR O/S

Lovely climbing.must be pumpy to lead

BC 08/Sep/15 2nd
Russell Blackaller 11/Apr/15 Lead β
John Mcshea 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Russ
Hidden ??/2015 -
tobydunford 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
JBO 19/Aug/14 Lead O/S
guy xavier percival 01/Apr/14 Lead O/S

It's looks intimidating but the gear and holds are good. The exit is a bit run out. Great route

with paul
Paul Robertson 01/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Paul_southgate68 21/Sep/13 2nd
Mike Goldthorp 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great route, really imposing when your at the bottom of the headwall! Finished up the crack on the right thinking it was the obvious line, was a bit of a shock since I was expecting 5c moves, but definitely warrants hard E3/4 6a for the more logical and probably better right hand finish. Awesome

with Tara, Paul S
Hidden 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Mr Powly 18/Mar/12 Lead β
with Hertha
burto 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
JeromeT ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Toby Dunn 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

no hard moves, but some decidedly dubious holds, and the gear is a tad fiddly in places. A fantastic route, though.

with Pete Saunders
iantoday 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Paula, Robbie Warke
James Mitchelmore 11/Oct/11 Lead RP
Nexonen 22/May/11 2nd dnf
with Heather, Felix
feilx 22/May/11 Lead O/S

accidentally took the variation finish out right, felt sustained and hard english 6a.

with Heather
Bristoldave 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Gear beta for the headwall available on request!

with nick
Spence22 16/Oct/10 Lead β

Abseal inspection. Not as bad as it looks from the ground! Wouldnt like to fall off the last few moves though.

with Simon
Justin T 09/Oct/10 Lead β

Previously looked at on top-rope some years ago, so dusky mildly damp retro-flash. E2 climbing, E3 fall potential in places with the ledgy ramp following you up below?

with Cherry
Macca_7 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Really impressive route with a fine headwall. Tricky moves but not too hard to start then the pump sets in at the top, just keep going! Well chuffed.

with Ali Holley
Hidden ??/2010 TR
Marti999 14/Dec/09 Lead O/S
with Anna
porridgefan 18/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Niall Francis
Hidden ??/2009 -
Dave Searle 10/Oct/08 -
Mark Stevenson 10/May/08 Lead O/S

1995 guide gives E2/3 5c. It's no harder than solid E1 5b.

with Sarah
sharmawho? 05/May/08 2nd O/S

Full on pump fest. Climbed clean onsite though. Wicked line

with Dave, Sim
Dave Searle 05/May/08 Lead O/S

brilliant climb supper pumpy and with a good run out hard section at top.

Hidden 19/Jul/07 TR O/S
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Apr/90 Lead O/S
Derek Ryden 19/Nov/89 TR O/S
with Gary Panes
Hidden 11/May/86 Lead β
ukb & bmc shark 21/Jul/84 2nd dog
with Bruce Woodley
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High E4
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High E3
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High E2
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Votes cast 15
High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 14
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set