unprotected one-move wonder

Jim blackford 16/Oct Lead

traversed 2m left above the bomber cluster of gear, and climbed at 5a (crux of dark motive?) before regaining correct line to top. Plan to do this crux properly along with the remainder of dark motive. The runout at the top is less serious than central buttress.

TommyKips 18/Jun Lead O/S
with Beth Hill
Hidden 10/Jul/16 2nd
Alex Winter 24/Apr/16 2nd O/S

Not as completely crap as I was expecting. A bit of a one-move-wonder, but it's a very nice move.

with Edgar
edgar_spaten 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Mike Roger ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 11/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Michael
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 30/Nov/13 Lead rpt
George Frisby 30/Nov/13 2nd rpt
pheotleyr 29/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Wanted to do The Lich, but there was a party on it so decided for this instead. Surprisingly good choice it was - really nice 5b crux about 1 meter above a cluster of bomber gear and some almost reasonably protected 4c/5a climbing towards the top of the slab. On pretty cool rock structure. Less serious than Central Buttress I thought and should be done more often.

with Jana
George Frisby 10/Sep/13 2nd
with Chris
stafford101 10/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Extremely thin crux - required a very precise sequence to get over it. Only one reasonable bit of gear after this until the finishing break. A memorable way to join the E-club.

zcsharp 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
mattorford 06/Nov/11 Lead

missed the peg, hence was a bit run out

evhall 23/Aug/11 Lead β

nice route - one move - tiny edges for hands and feet...

with Fletch
AndyMcCoy 23/Jun/11 2nd
with Nathan
aipattison 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Alex Malins
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Robyn Nelson
j miller ??/2011 Lead dog
Dr Caterpillar 08/Jul/10 Lead O/S

cool crux, not easy peasy...

with Al
sweenyt 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Paula
Hidden 29/Aug/09 Solo rpt
dimwit18 26/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Keith Peck
keithpeck 26/Jul/09 Lead RP

First E1. Found the crux to be well protected with 2 nuts, a cam and the rusty peg! Going straight up the center of the slabs above felt very adventurous, big run outs of about 6m and still reasonable hard thin climbing.

Tom Heslam ??/2009 Lead O/S
with Rosea
scorpia97 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S

skirted around 5b move

with Caspian
Hidden 06/Jun/08 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 23/Apr/08 Lead O/S

One balancy worrying move and the gear's okay, just at your feet.

with Matt Frank
KRB 25/Oct/07 Solo O/S
ASchwirtz 12/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Added an alternative top, go up the blank slab between the correct line and the vdif - very committing, no gear, run out, smooth and a babies bum! probably E2/E3 5c

with Kate
sdi 09/Feb/06 2nd

A lot easier than Mike's Mistake!

with Tom K
Richard Hall ??/2006 Lead

Seconded Ian Lau first time round, then led SK, then second TK.

with Sam Kendrick
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
Paz ?/May/04 Lead O/S


with SN
IceMonkey1982 ??/2003 Lead O/S
Andrew1 21/Apr/01 2nd
with Martin Carter
gimmer ??/2001 -
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
rocktigger ??/1999 Lead O/S
with Cath
Hidden 12/Aug/89 Lead O/S
mark-abz 14/May/88 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
JamieAyres ?/Sep/84 2nd O/S
with some geezer I met down the Gorge
John Marsland 26/Mar/83 Lead
with Dave Mould and Nick Ward
stp ??/1982 -
Hidden 25/Aug/81 Lead
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 11
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set