46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route giving steep climbing on an uncompromising line.
Start on the ledge at the base of the wall just right of Limbo.
1) 5b, 23m. Take the right-hand line of thin cracks to ledges beneath the right side of the black bulges, thread. Steep climbing through the bulges on good pockets gains a strenuous perch at a large pocket. Pull steeply out right and up to better holds and a little further a hanging stance at a horizontal break.
2) 5a, 23m. Enter the long groove above the stance and follow it all the way to ledges that allow a short traverse left to a belay and abseil point at a large rock anchor. © Rockfax

Ed Drummond 27/Oct/1965

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, George's Evening Gorge Ticklist, CC GUIDE (2016): Avon Gorge - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock, Ultimate E1 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JendeHoxar 8 Aug Lead O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 8 Aug 2nd rpt
Bob Peters 31 Jul Lead In one pitch. Very cool knee bar rest in the big pocket.
In one pitch. Very cool knee bar rest in the big pocket.
Mackinclimb 31 Jul 2nd
plant_based_tommo 17 Jul Lead O/S really good! did it in one pitch and got a little spooked near the top due to running out of appropriate gear. felt a bit like was soloing but at least it was easy climbing by that point.
with Robyn Nelson
really good! did it in one pitch and got a little spooked near the top due to running out of appropriate gear. felt a bit like was soloing but at least it was easy climbing by that point.
with Robyn Nelson
Goran Glumac 14 Jul 2nd dog Pumpy overhang, had to rest due to akward position to unclip a quickdraw hanging from a thread. Constant in the grade. Enjoyed the moves.
Pumpy overhang, had to rest due to akward position to unclip a quickdraw hanging from a thread. Constant in the grade. Enjoyed the moves.
Owen W-G 14 Jul Lead O/S Was going to do one fo the easier routes but this was still in shade after 1pm so that clinched it. Strenuous around the hole so didn't stick around long (placed a v quick wire inside) then a whole lot of well-pro but fluffable 5a all the way to the top. Pretty taxing on the whole, and must’ve spent well over an hour on the lead. Felt at least 1 grade harder than Zombogies done earlier.
Was going to do one fo the easier routes but this was still in shade after 1pm so that clinched it. Strenuous around the hole so didn't stick around long (placed a v quick wire inside) then a whole lot of well-pro but fluffable 5a all the way to the top. Pretty taxing on the whole, and must’ve spent well over an hour on the lead. Felt at least 1 grade harder than Zombogies done earlier.
Tom Brierley 13 Jul Lead rpt
with karenhh
with karenhh
George Cox 2 Jul Lead O/S Lead as a single pitch
Lead as a single pitch
fammer 2 Jul Lead RP In one pitch. After seconding it a couple of weeks ago.
In one pitch. After seconding it a couple of weeks ago.
Fellmonkey 2 Jul 2nd O/S
Oscar Popels 20 Jun AltLd rpt Lead P2. P1 just as hard as I remember it
Lead P2. P1 just as hard as I remember it
Jim blackford 8 Jun Lead O/S Brilliant as one pitch , no rope drag and steady with 3 trickier bits .clipped highest peg of first belay , there's also some good tricams and size 5 cam
Brilliant as one pitch , no rope drag and steady with 3 trickier bits .clipped highest peg of first belay , there's also some good tricams and size 5 cam
danieljames123 8 Jun 2nd rpt
fammer 5 Jun 2nd Great route, we planned to swing leads but Gavin ended up leading through and doing one long pitch due to faff at the belay and fading light. I'll be back for the lead.
with Gavin
Great route, we planned to swing leads but Gavin ended up leading through and doing one long pitch due to faff at the belay and fading light. I'll be back for the lead.
with Gavin
Alpinelegend69 4 May Lead
Dominic Acland 30 Mar Lead dog Got my feet wrong and had to take a rest.
Got my feet wrong and had to take a rest.
Hidden ?? -
Dave Cundy ?? -
danieljames123 17 Oct, 2018 Lead linked as one pitch. would recommend in this style
with Alex O
linked as one pitch. would recommend in this style
with Alex O
foobar123 21 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Led P1 before Wheatcroft finished up Oblivion. Really good steep climbing on positive holds: not as scary as the new guide suggests!
Led P1 before Wheatcroft finished up Oblivion. Really good steep climbing on positive holds: not as scary as the new guide suggests!
Hidden 21 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Tom Brierley 9 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt Lead both pitches together this time, just as fun as I remember it.
with karenhh
Lead both pitches together this time, just as fun as I remember it.
with karenhh
JulioFranco 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd
lieraza 5 Sep, 2018 AltLd dog Led P2 clean, P1 I rested on the crux while seconding. Don't think I found the correct place to abseil from...
with Julio
Led P2 clean, P1 I rested on the crux while seconding. Don't think I found the correct place to abseil from...
with Julio
DoMakeSayThink 2 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Strenuous moves past the bulge, and quite a long route when done as one pitch!
with Doug M
Strenuous moves past the bulge, and quite a long route when done as one pitch!
with Doug M
Josh Hadley 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Rp20
with Rp20
Rp20 16 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Excellent fun. Hid in the hole to fight off the pump before pushing through the bulge.
Excellent fun. Hid in the hole to fight off the pump before pushing through the bulge.
badgerjockey 11 Aug, 2018 Lead G/U As 1 pitch. Had to get this after falling at the crux yesterday from being cold, pumped and tired so climbed ground up with the early gear in. What a route though, doesn’t drop much below 5a/b until the end. Went up the final hand crack of oblivion and ran out of draws! Possibly best route on the buttress? Solid rock and gear. Pumpy crux. Slightly adventurous. Good training for some wilder places...
As 1 pitch. Had to get this after falling at the crux yesterday from being cold, pumped and tired so climbed ground up with the early gear in. What a route though, doesn’t drop much below 5a/b until the end. Went up the final hand crack of oblivion and ran out of draws! Possibly best route on the buttress? Solid rock and gear. Pumpy crux. Slightly adventurous. Good training for some wilder places...
Oscar Popels 11 Aug, 2018 2nd It was pretty pumpy getting the gear back by the bulge. Really enjoyable hand jamming at the top too.
It was pretty pumpy getting the gear back by the bulge. Really enjoyable hand jamming at the top too.
Harry Padley 7 Aug, 2018 Lead dog
jld579 ?Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 2nd
widdlestickmcpoos 25 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
rosso 16 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Feeling a bit ill but pushed through the first pitch. Left P2 to Nathan
Feeling a bit ill but pushed through the first pitch. Left P2 to Nathan
nathanjmasters 16 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with rosso
with rosso
Dan0Me 15 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with Geoff P
with Geoff P
grp 15 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
aiyer 17 May, 2018 AltLd rpt Lead P2
Lead P2
JoeCoxson 17 May, 2018 AltLd O/S Pumpy as hell through past the big pockets, and sustained for a lot of it, but good rests. Took a couple of ups and downs to get some gear sorted in the niche, which sapped some strength. Will be back to do it in a single pitch.
with aiyer
Pumpy as hell through past the big pockets, and sustained for a lot of it, but good rests. Took a couple of ups and downs to get some gear sorted in the niche, which sapped some strength. Will be back to do it in a single pitch.
with aiyer
jameslomax 6 Apr, 2018 2nd O/S As one pitch
As one pitch
Stanners 3 Nov, 2017 AltLd rpt P1. Standard banter, cheese sandwich was decent
with Trad Punter
P1. Standard banter, cheese sandwich was decent
with Trad Punter
Hidden 24 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Oct, 2017 2nd β
adam088 17 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p2
with Jon Turner
Led p2
with Jon Turner
eoinb 2 Sep, 2017 2nd
Q.Estelles 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Good rote! Done in one only pitch to make it spicy.
with eoinb
Good rote! Done in one only pitch to make it spicy.
with eoinb
Richardlake 19 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S Did in one pitch, finished along the final part of the hell gates traverse since the end of the groove on the second pitch looked shit and the ledge to move across to get to the belay was really vegetated. Amazing route, crux felt more like the first few moves of the groove in the second pitch, probably because I was a little pumped after overhang. Well worth the 3 stars!
Did in one pitch, finished along the final part of the hell gates traverse since the end of the groove on the second pitch looked shit and the ledge to move across to get to the belay was really vegetated. Amazing route, crux felt more like the first few moves of the groove in the second pitch, probably because I was a little pumped after overhang. Well worth the 3 stars!
will_lake 19 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
mikeyjbs 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
featuresforfeet 29 Jul, 2017 2nd dog
mcrispin 14 Jul, 2017 2nd
with Jason payne
with Jason payne
aiyer 6 Jul, 2017 2nd chalklessly...
chalklessly...
Wendy Watthews 6 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S As one pitch, quite a lot of drag by the top
with aiyer
As one pitch, quite a lot of drag by the top
with aiyer
Ellis Bird 1 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 22 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Sean
with Sean
Dakam12 3 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
Adam Bosworth ?Jun, 2017 Lead
Dale Comley 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 27 May, 2017 2nd Extremely loose in places, would not be surprised at all if this time next year a large portion of the route had fallen down! There is a big, larger than fridge sized block below the first belay which does not look like it's attached to a whole lot...
Extremely loose in places, would not be surprised at all if this time next year a large portion of the route had fallen down! There is a big, larger than fridge sized block below the first belay which does not look like it's attached to a whole lot...
Longsufferingropeholder 24 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Didn't find the recommended belay. Running desperately low on gear I eventually stumbled upon some pegs, thought "This must be it!", and stopped to set up hanging in a sharp, gnarly, uncomfortable niche with only about 6m of shonky looking blocks between me and the top out. Don't do what I did. Nice route though.
Didn't find the recommended belay. Running desperately low on gear I eventually stumbled upon some pegs, thought "This must be it!", and stopped to set up hanging in a sharp, gnarly, uncomfortable niche with only about 6m of shonky looking blocks between me and the top out. Don't do what I did. Nice route though.
mcrispin 9 May, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Jason payne
with Jason payne
Hidden 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S
afrosam 15 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Led as one pitch, great climbing
with chrisscutt
Led as one pitch, great climbing
with chrisscutt
skippington 6 Apr, 2017 Lead rpt Done in one pitch.
Done in one pitch.
David Staples 2 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf
Harry Martin 1 Apr, 2017 Lead
Hidden ?Apr, 2017 Lead
chrisscutt ?Apr, 2017 2nd β
with sam
with sam
DHHZ 26 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
timozheng 26 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
with DHHZ
with DHHZ
gavink9613 31 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Neil 8 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Carl Watkins 8 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead p1
with Neil
Lead p1
with Neil
Jonny_86 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
mossrug 14 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Ha ha! Fell off whilst seconding pitch 2. :-)
Ha ha! Fell off whilst seconding pitch 2. :-)
Trisha Murphy 14 Jul, 2016 AltLd
ali.scott 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
WillAndrew 6 Jul, 2016 AltLd rpt
ian d f 3 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
pearson9596 3 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
Steve Bartle 2 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S First gorge E1. Cracking route. Was glad Jonathan was on the sharp end for the bulge crux of p1..he wasn't glad!..he got there eventually after lots of climbing up and down to place gear...I got to enjoy the steep moves without too much worry. P2 was pretty sustained and a I forgot the route description
with Jonathan B
First gorge E1. Cracking route. Was glad Jonathan was on the sharp end for the bulge crux of p1..he wasn't glad!..he got there eventually after lots of climbing up and down to place gear...I got to enjoy the steep moves without too much worry. P2 was pretty sustained and a I forgot the route description
with Jonathan B
Hidden 21 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
GeorgT 18 Jun, 2016 2nd β
with Jamie Thornley
with Jamie Thornley
julesmckim 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S In one pitch. Great route. The bulge is blessed with great holds. Good climbing above too
with Rob Smart
In one pitch. Great route. The bulge is blessed with great holds. Good climbing above too
with Rob Smart
David Clover ?May, 2016 AltLd
Rob Moorcroft 16 Apr, 2016 2nd
with Richard Ive
with Richard Ive
David Clover 29 Feb, 2016 AltLd
with hutchay
with hutchay
hutchay 29 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S Led first pitch, ran it out from the threads to the mini ledge. Dave had some rock comes off in his hand on the second and led the top pitch.
Led first pitch, ran it out from the threads to the mini ledge. Dave had some rock comes off in his hand on the second and led the top pitch.
WillAndrew 18 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Matt G
with Matt G
Ollie B 31 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with A.Rosier
with A.Rosier
Dave Rumney 14 Oct, 2015 AltLd less polish and better quality rock than I was expecting
less polish and better quality rock than I was expecting
Flavio 4 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with robinge
with robinge
andycash 27 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
with Daryl nayler
with Daryl nayler
DaveFidler 26 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S Bit scary!
Bit scary!
steve-grigg 26 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
jon_gill1 12 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S I did p1 and Mart p2. Great route from bottom to top!
with martin johnson
I did p1 and Mart p2. Great route from bottom to top!
with martin johnson
Hidden 10 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 8 Sep, 2015 Lead rpt
with Graham McGrath
with Graham McGrath
Legs 8 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Ran it all as one pitch. Great fun. Crux move over the bulge not as hard as I had been lead to believe. It's well protect on massive jugs.
Ran it all as one pitch. Great fun. Crux move over the bulge not as hard as I had been lead to believe. It's well protect on massive jugs.
steve_gibbs 8 Sep, 2015 2nd rpt
with Legs
with Legs
jsmcfarland 27 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Led this after seeing 2 youngish guys have an epic and having to retreat, abbing off the fixed tat or something (f*** that!). I linked both pitches into 1 massive pitch. Only really 1 hard move on the whole route, well protected but bloody hard! I got through the crux but then missed a vital cam placement not long after, ended up so run out I would have hit the deck and probably died before the rope came tight. Scary! Eventually got in some bomber gear and continued into pitch 2, which was very sustained. All in all, excellent route and fun to lead in 1 pitch, just bring lots of gear and slingdraws!
Led this after seeing 2 youngish guys have an epic and having to retreat, abbing off the fixed tat or something (f*** that!). I linked both pitches into 1 massive pitch. Only really 1 hard move on the whole route, well protected but bloody hard! I got through the crux but then missed a vital cam placement not long after, ended up so run out I would have hit the deck and probably died before the rope came tight. Scary! Eventually got in some bomber gear and continued into pitch 2, which was very sustained. All in all, excellent route and fun to lead in 1 pitch, just bring lots of gear and slingdraws!
Hidden 27 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S
will_lake 22 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
HowieB 30 Jul, 2015 Lead RP
with Andy
with Andy
Nathan Chrismas 11 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S Lovely stuff. Nice head jam in the cave for a rest.
with falch
Lovely stuff. Nice head jam in the cave for a rest.
with falch
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 19 Jun, 2015 AltLd rpt Led first pitch. Glad to get it clean as steep cruxes aren't my thing.
with martin Levy
Led first pitch. Glad to get it clean as steep cruxes aren't my thing.
with martin Levy
martinlevya82 19 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hillseeker 8 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Tim p1, me p2.
with Tim Larrad
Tim p1, me p2.
with Tim Larrad
clmacdonald 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd
tskelhon 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd
Tom Brierley 31 May, 2015 Lead O/S Nice quiet traffic free day to climb this :) loved the black pocketed crux, not as technical or hard as limbo but a great climb on good rock that deserves it's stars.
with karenhh
Nice quiet traffic free day to climb this :) loved the black pocketed crux, not as technical or hard as limbo but a great climb on good rock that deserves it's stars.
with karenhh
Phil Murray 27 May, 2015 2nd O/S Awesome! Crux was getting gear out.... John ran it into 2 pitches, which was fine :)
with John Alcock
Awesome! Crux was getting gear out.... John ran it into 2 pitches, which was fine :)
with John Alcock
Hugobristol 4 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Dino Dave 4 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
LJKing 11 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S Tough climbing. Forgot about sprained ankle whilst trying to hang on!
with Paul Clarkson
Tough climbing. Forgot about sprained ankle whilst trying to hang on!
with Paul Clarkson
Eagertom ?Feb, 2015 Lead O/S Hard pulls with lots of gear. Ran pitches together.
with Thom Jenkinson
Hard pulls with lots of gear. Ran pitches together.
with Thom Jenkinson
Hidden ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 31 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch. Quite pumpy but short lived. Really enjoyed it!
Led 1st pitch. Quite pumpy but short lived. Really enjoyed it!
mattkemp70 ?Dec, 2014 2nd
with Westy
with Westy
Hidden 16 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S
AJ007 16 Nov, 2014 AltLd O/S
felixizzy 15 Sep, 2014 Lead β Real Nice, though it would be harder than it actually was. Ran as one pitch and seemed to go on forever!
Real Nice, though it would be harder than it actually was. Ran as one pitch and seemed to go on forever!
Cheese Monkey 15 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt Still fantastic
Still fantastic
Mike Kiss 15 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S One long lovely pitch. Found it a bit tricky getting gear in at crux
One long lovely pitch. Found it a bit tricky getting gear in at crux
evhall 30 Aug, 2014 AltLd rpt P2
with Mike B
P2
with Mike B
danJBA 20 Jul, 2014 AltLd
roberts1234567890 20 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with danJBA
with danJBA
Hidden 10 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Kirill 7 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1.
with cem
Led P1.
with cem
cem 7 Jun, 2014 AltLd rpt Led p2 this time. Good route but ** IMO.
with Kirill
Led p2 this time. Good route but ** IMO.
with Kirill
mick1jones 3 Jun, 2014 AltLd dog led 2nd pitch but had one rest at crux on 1st
with Rich Rogers
led 2nd pitch but had one rest at crux on 1st
with Rich Rogers
pheotleyr 1 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Found very hard, faffed around far too lang trying to get a runner in at the last big pocket while trying to get my whole body stuck in there. Was completely knackered when I finally pulled out rightwards. Difficulties remain surprisingly long after.
Found very hard, faffed around far too lang trying to get a runner in at the last big pocket while trying to get my whole body stuck in there. Was completely knackered when I finally pulled out rightwards. Difficulties remain surprisingly long after.
Mayaculpa 1 Jun, 2014 2nd Brilliant and sustained. Sat on the ropes at the cave. finding the key jug made it possible.
Brilliant and sustained. Sat on the ropes at the cave. finding the key jug made it possible.
LucasHarazin 4 May, 2014 Lead O/S
just one more 4 May, 2014 2nd
Hidden ?May, 2014 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 15 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Great route, lead on one big pitch.
Great route, lead on one big pitch.
philhilo 13 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Nice route, tat looking a bit senior below the hole.
with heg, Misha
Nice route, tat looking a bit senior below the hole.
with heg, Misha
Stuart William 11 Apr, 2014 Lead O/S Done as one pitch.
with Ben D
Done as one pitch.
with Ben D
Cheese Monkey 11 Apr, 2014 2nd rpt
with Stuart I
with Stuart I
Aaron Lines 23 Mar, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden 16 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Mar, 2014 2nd β
Hidden 1 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Neil ??, 2014 Lead O/S
James Jackson ??, 2014 -
Andrew Sloan 31 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S Martin led as 1 pitch. Brilliant route, the upper 5a groove is sustained and unremitting.
Martin led as 1 pitch. Brilliant route, the upper 5a groove is sustained and unremitting.
Martin Haworth 31 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Dean Russell 20 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 28 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Thugtastic! Snapped the head straight off one of the belay pegs so kind of persuaded me to do it in one. Excellent
Thugtastic! Snapped the head straight off one of the belay pegs so kind of persuaded me to do it in one. Excellent
pheotleyr 28 Jul, 2013 2nd β Absolutely brilliant, second pitch surprisingly hard.
Absolutely brilliant, second pitch surprisingly hard.
Shone 13 Jun, 2013 2nd Finished in the dark
with Rob
Finished in the dark
with Rob
zcsharp 5 Jun, 2013 AltLd rpt Lead the first pitch, harder than i remembered. Second pitch was harder than i remember as well.
Lead the first pitch, harder than i remembered. Second pitch was harder than i remember as well.
steve_gibbs 5 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
with zcsharp
with zcsharp
rob.grafton 4 May, 2013 -
Alex Winter 3 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P2. Stout first pitch
with George
Led P2. Stout first pitch
with George
georgeevans88 3 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
richiebongo ??, 2013 Lead O/S Sometime in the naughties.
Sometime in the naughties.
jcw ??, 2013 -
Ali D ??, 2013 AltLd
with Tom M
with Tom M
Kemics 25 Oct, 2012 Lead β Linked in one pitch. (though dithered at the belay for ages deciding to) Warmed up on Limbo so checked to see if it was dry on the ab as it was raining in the morning (Beta) checked a wire placement...oh the shame. Think I traversed out one move to early and had to go up on awkward pinches. The natural line following the big flakey laybacks left from the cave would be much easier. 2nd pitch is probably only 4c
with dan ely
Linked in one pitch. (though dithered at the belay for ages deciding to) Warmed up on Limbo so checked to see if it was dry on the ab as it was raining in the morning (Beta) checked a wire placement...oh the shame. Think I traversed out one move to early and had to go up on awkward pinches. The natural line following the big flakey laybacks left from the cave would be much easier. 2nd pitch is probably only 4c
with dan ely
zcsharp 12 Sep, 2012 AltLd Did the 2nd pitch as soon as it started to rain, which was fine but the 2nd pitch has a lot of vegetation and every hold was wet because of that.
Did the 2nd pitch as soon as it started to rain, which was fine but the 2nd pitch has a lot of vegetation and every hold was wet because of that.
James Smith 12 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S led the first pitch which was excellent, got rained on at the belay but it stopped nicely in time for me to climb the second pitch!
with jamie
led the first pitch which was excellent, got rained on at the belay but it stopped nicely in time for me to climb the second pitch!
with jamie
mattshort 2 Sep, 2012 AltLd
with Alan100
with Alan100
Alan100 2 Sep, 2012 AltLd Stayed left going through the big pocket which made it feel pretty strenuous. Realised on the ab afterwards that going right at the pocket looked a lot easier. Most of the top pitch is a bit of a disappointing thrash through vegetation but it's still a satisfying route.
Stayed left going through the big pocket which made it feel pretty strenuous. Realised on the ab afterwards that going right at the pocket looked a lot easier. Most of the top pitch is a bit of a disappointing thrash through vegetation but it's still a satisfying route.
Billg 19 Aug, 2012 2nd O/S
richardr 18 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S In one pitch
with Billg
In one pitch
with Billg
Jake Young 3 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
CRiddiford 3 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S first pitch and probably halfish of the second...trying to find the start of the hybrid not realising it starts in middle of p1, really nice pitch anyway, would of been great as one
first pitch and probably halfish of the second...trying to find the start of the hybrid not realising it starts in middle of p1, really nice pitch anyway, would of been great as one
just one more 27 Jul, 2012 Lead
with Phil K
with Phil K
Pippa 22 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S First pitch then got stuck in torrential rain and then hail
First pitch then got stuck in torrential rain and then hail
richsmithinbristol 22 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Pippa
with Pippa
Nick Russell 1 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Got the second, easier pitch. Descending with a single rope is interesting...
with Martin
Got the second, easier pitch. Descending with a single rope is interesting...
with Martin
gb05 29 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
Mackinclimb 29 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Awesome. Led it with a big 6m run out through the crux - too pumped to look for gear! Hanging belay was interesting.
Awesome. Led it with a big 6m run out through the crux - too pumped to look for gear! Hanging belay was interesting.
Glyn 12 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S One big pitch, felt quite adventures, it's like jungle up there!
with Amy UT
One big pitch, felt quite adventures, it's like jungle up there!
with Amy UT
LucaC 10 Mar, 2012 Lead dnf Really damp in the pockets. One for after some dry weather to clean it up.
Really damp in the pockets. One for after some dry weather to clean it up.
Ciro 3 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Kevster 15 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 8 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead P1. For some reason didn't manage to get the knee-bar rest this time so felt more strenuous. Great route!
Lead P1. For some reason didn't manage to get the knee-bar rest this time so felt more strenuous. Great route!
aipattison 8 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P2.
Led P2.
Hidden 29 Oct, 2011 Lead dnf
stephenhartley 3 Oct, 2011 2nd
Hidden 28 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Ross Davidson 28 Sep, 2011 2nd rpt
Hidden 28 Sep, 2011 2nd rpt
Hidden 3 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
Stanners 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1. 3 strenuous tugs and its over. Great hanging belay, although got quite painful hanging in air waiting for Jack to second and lead P2. Better than Limbo? - easily as good as.
Led P1. 3 strenuous tugs and its over. Great hanging belay, although got quite painful hanging in air waiting for Jack to second and lead P2. Better than Limbo? - easily as good as.
Hidden 24 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with GF
with GF
Hidden 9 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 9 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S P2
with IainAM
P2
with IainAM
mark20 19 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S As 1 big pitch - good route
As 1 big pitch - good route
Hidden 12 Apr, 2011 AltLd
Geoboy 7 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
bpmclimb 20 Feb, 2011 AltLd rpt Steve led p1
with Steve Redmond
Steve led p1
with Steve Redmond
stvredmond 20 Feb, 2011 AltLd led the 1st pitch, nice steep, thuggy climbing, can you stop long enough to place kit ?. 2nd pitch is well worth the effort also
led the 1st pitch, nice steep, thuggy climbing, can you stop long enough to place kit ?. 2nd pitch is well worth the effort also
Pete Rigby ?Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Night Climb
Night Climb
Jonnie Watkins ??, 2011 -
Stone Muppet 9 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Hard E1 if stringing the pitches I think. Finished in the dark, but to be fair, the sun had pretty much set before I started.
with Paz
Hard E1 if stringing the pitches I think. Finished in the dark, but to be fair, the sun had pretty much set before I started.
with Paz
Paz 9 Sep, 2010 2nd rpt
royal 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S First E1 on the same day as my first HVS! Misha led the harder first pitch and I led the second. Lots of good moves through the overhang. I had trouble route finding towards the top, moved left a bit and had some rock break off whilst run out. Luckily didn't peel off with it. Perfect route for my current level, really enjoyed it.
with Misha
First E1 on the same day as my first HVS! Misha led the harder first pitch and I led the second. Lots of good moves through the overhang. I had trouble route finding towards the top, moved left a bit and had some rock break off whilst run out. Luckily didn't peel off with it. Perfect route for my current level, really enjoyed it.
with Misha
Misha 7 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Good line, big holds and not too hard if you get the footwork right. Great hanging belay. Led P1.
with royal
Good line, big holds and not too hard if you get the footwork right. Great hanging belay. Led P1.
with royal
evhall 8 Jul, 2010 AltLd dog so knackered after seconding first pitch that I had to rest on lead 2nd - still a brilliant climb
with Leandro
so knackered after seconding first pitch that I had to rest on lead 2nd - still a brilliant climb
with Leandro
Si dH 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Led in one big pitch (45-50m?) to the big rock anchor. Superb route, keeps going all the way. Suffering from heat exhaustion and two agonising achilles tendons by the end :S
with Andy Morris
Led in one big pitch (45-50m?) to the big rock anchor. Superb route, keeps going all the way. Suffering from heat exhaustion and two agonising achilles tendons by the end :S
with Andy Morris
Hidden 20 Jun, 2010 2nd
Chris Sansum 19 Jun, 2010 2nd dog Had a tight rope for a second at the crux, after finding this a bit tough. Maybe I missed a jug, or perhaps the crucial hold was one of those bits of rock that dropped onto my head when the second was doing the crux! Rich led the route.
with Zoe, Richard Lade
Had a tight rope for a second at the crux, after finding this a bit tough. Maybe I missed a jug, or perhaps the crucial hold was one of those bits of rock that dropped onto my head when the second was doing the crux! Rich led the route.
with Zoe, Richard Lade
Hidden 17 Jun, 2010 2nd
fishinwater ?Jun, 2010 2nd
with Barry
with Barry
Pete Polish 30 May, 2010 Lead O/S in one pitch
with Liz Day
in one pitch
with Liz Day
Hidden 18 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 May, 2010 2nd dog
Hidden 24 Apr, 2010 2nd
Hidden 24 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
andy dunn 21 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S pitch 1 - me Pitch 2 - J Easy climbing up to the ledge, the moves get progressively harder as you pull through the pockets but jugs keep on coming to hand... nice balancy move around the corner to a neat hanging belay.
with J
pitch 1 - me Pitch 2 - J Easy climbing up to the ledge, the moves get progressively harder as you pull through the pockets but jugs keep on coming to hand... nice balancy move around the corner to a neat hanging belay.
with J
ericinbristol 16 Apr, 2010 Lead rpt Did it as one pitch. Barry broke off the cracked jug exiting the crux while seconding: still about the same grade but slightly harder.
with Barry Durston
Did it as one pitch. Barry broke off the cracked jug exiting the crux while seconding: still about the same grade but slightly harder.
with Barry Durston
Ross Davidson 31 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
Aaron Lines ??, 2010 2nd O/S
markfromstoke ??, 2010 2nd
with Pete H
with Pete H
crobinson 26 Oct, 2009 AltLd led 2nd pitch, maybe 5b?
led 2nd pitch, maybe 5b?
Tom Last 26 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch. 2nd pitch quite run out.
Led 1st pitch. 2nd pitch quite run out.
ruaidh 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S one hard bit at the hole, followed by a balancey move out right. abseiled down from the top belay of hell gates after a traverse back right (P2). v. enjoyable, well recommended.
with Baz
one hard bit at the hole, followed by a balancey move out right. abseiled down from the top belay of hell gates after a traverse back right (P2). v. enjoyable, well recommended.
with Baz
Dan_Carroll 11 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S in one pitch. soft for E1.
with Eric Herring
in one pitch. soft for E1.
with Eric Herring
Justin T 25 May, 2009 Lead O/S Tidy route ... hands-off rest at the crux ... 2nd pitch a bit scrappy but the first is quality.
with TeaGirl
Tidy route ... hands-off rest at the crux ... 2nd pitch a bit scrappy but the first is quality.
with TeaGirl
gripped01 ?Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with Jim Jarvis
with Jim Jarvis
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead O/S
ian d f ??, 2009 Lead O/S
with Pete B
with Pete B
Dr Caterpillar 7 Nov, 2008 Lead dnf fell off the pockets
with Howard
fell off the pockets
with Howard
just one more 19 Oct, 2008 Lead
with tim b
with tim b
RagingPuffin 13 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead first pitch
with Greg Pittam
Lead first pitch
with Greg Pittam
Al Franks 13 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S Nice first pitch, a shame the second lets it down
Nice first pitch, a shame the second lets it down
CarolineH 10 Aug, 2008 2nd rpt
IceMonkey1982 7 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S Climd was good, but don't think it worthy of the stars.
Climd was good, but don't think it worthy of the stars.
MikeC59 23 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 13 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead 2nd Pitch.
with Al Franks
Lead 2nd Pitch.
with Al Franks
Huntlyfiddler 8 Jun, 2008 2nd
bpmclimb 8 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S We thought this was low in the grade.
We thought this was low in the grade.
CarolineH 9 May, 2008 2nd dog
with Joe
with Joe
Hidden 13 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 13 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S Will lead the first pitch, felt like it would be pretty commiting on lead! Really nice route.
Will lead the first pitch, felt like it would be pretty commiting on lead! Really nice route.
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
Francis Lister ?Dec, 2007 2nd dog
georgeevans88 ?Dec, 2007 Lead O/S nice throughout - good kneebar rest
nice throughout - good kneebar rest
Hidden 25 Nov, 2007 AltLd
pelvoux 20 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with Mario
with Mario
maresia 7 Oct, 2007 AltLd dog The first pitch was too steep for my puny arms to hang on to while trying to dislodge Mike's stuck nut. Lead the second pitch clean though (even after a bit of gibbering)
The first pitch was too steep for my puny arms to hang on to while trying to dislodge Mike's stuck nut. Lead the second pitch clean though (even after a bit of gibbering)
AJM 25 Sep, 2007 Lead β Had done bits of it before with Paz for the EoP/Oblivion combo. Did p1 and most of p2 as one - stopped a break before the traverse left because I was confused where to traverse. Had to abseil from there though, Ali struggled seconding.
with AllyBee
Had done bits of it before with Paz for the EoP/Oblivion combo. Did p1 and most of p2 as one - stopped a break before the traverse left because I was confused where to traverse. Had to abseil from there though, Ali struggled seconding.
with AllyBee
simonf 7 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S Traversed across too early on 2nd pitch which added to the fun
with Chris
Traversed across too early on 2nd pitch which added to the fun
with Chris
John Southworth ?Jul, 2007 -
Fat Tim 6 Jun, 2007 Lead RP
Hidden 3 Jun, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 26 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 25 Jan, 2007 Lead O/S
with Joe
with Joe
danp ??, 2007 Lead O/S
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2007 Lead O/S
beardy mike ??, 2007 Lead O/S
tonanf ?Aug, 2006 AltLd
with burt
with burt
Hidden 30 Jul, 2006 2nd dog
TimPerkin 1 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Dave Gale
with Dave Gale
gonggashan ?Jul, 2006 2nd
with Dan Perrott
with Dan Perrott
JasonG ?Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Barry Donovan
with Barry Donovan
Boxy 24 Jun, 2006 Lead rpt
with Mick
with Mick
Lev 16 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Cormac McFarlane
with Cormac McFarlane
Marcus ??, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Paz 19 Sep, 2005 2nd rpt
Ally Smith 19 Sep, 2005 Lead
with Paz
with Paz
MikeC59 7 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 Lead β
Bux ?Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
with Rupert Bassadone
_m.cox_ ?May, 2005 Lead O/S Linked both pitches together
with Chris Savage
Linked both pitches together
with Chris Savage
KRB 1 Apr, 2005 Lead O/S
with Chris Bridges
with Chris Bridges
Hidden ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
tom.e ??, 2005 Lead O/S Led first pitch
Led first pitch
Mark Davies PK ?Jun, 2004 Lead O/S In one very long pitch!!
with Ryan K
In one very long pitch!!
with Ryan K
richgac 25 May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Nick
with Nick
furry 24 May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Neil
with Neil
Andrew Barker ?May, 2004 AltLd O/S Month a guess.
with Dave Peachey
Month a guess.
with Dave Peachey
Hidden 13 Apr, 2004 Lead dog
Hidden 12 Apr, 2004 Lead
shoulders 7 Apr, 2004 Lead O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
cem 28 Mar, 2004 AltLd O/S Led p1
with GrahamD
Led p1
with GrahamD
cornishben ?Jan, 2004 AltLd O/S Led first pitch
with Ian Butterworth
Led first pitch
with Ian Butterworth
Boxy 8 Nov, 2003 Lead rpt
with Vince
with Vince
just one more 3 Oct, 2003 Lead
with Svenn G
with Svenn G
Hidden 3 Oct, 2003 -
just one more 29 Jun, 2003 Lead
with Svenn G
with Svenn G
Hidden 10 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Feb, 2003 Lead
Paz 19 Feb, 2003 Lead O/S Strang P1 and P2
with TC
Strang P1 and P2
with TC
Hidden ??, 2003 -
Hidden 25 May, 2002 2nd
pezzerrr ?Jan, 2002 Lead O/S
Roget 5 May, 2001 AltLd rpt
with baccy
with baccy
Billg 16 Apr, 2001 Lead O/S
with Paul Tucker
with Paul Tucker
Hidden 1 Apr, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
richsmithinbristol 13 Feb, 2000 Lead
Nigel Coe ??, 2000 AltLd
with Dick Hanson
with Dick Hanson
JimR ??, 2000 -
Ally Smith ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Jun, 1999 AltLd O/S
crimpaway ??, 1999 Lead
GuySummers ??, 1998 -
migs493 4 Oct, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Steve Blake
with Steve Blake
bruce ??, 1997 Lead O/S En-route to Weymouth. Steep bit felt committing. A fantastic situation next to Brunel's Bridge.
with Richard Bossons
En-route to Weymouth. Steep bit felt committing. A fantastic situation next to Brunel's Bridge.
with Richard Bossons
colin milton 22 Sep, 1996 AltLd lead the easier top pitch
with eric milton
lead the easier top pitch
with eric milton
Hidden ??, 1996 -
Steve Neads 29 Jun, 1995 2nd
with Mark C
with Mark C
Roget 3 Apr, 1995 AltLd O/S
with jon
with jon
lowersharpnose 1 Jan, 1995 Lead
markpollak ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with neil dennison, roy thomas, suzanne mcfadzean
with neil dennison, roy thomas, suzanne mcfadzean
Hidden ?Oct, 1994 AltLd
NeilGriffiths 15 May, 1994 Lead
with jon didymus
with jon didymus
Didymus 14 May, 1994 AltLd O/S
GAtkins 1 Apr, 1994 2nd
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead
AndySL 5 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S One of the best routes in the Avon Gorge.
with Pete H
One of the best routes in the Avon Gorge.
with Pete H
Neil McA 25 Jul, 1993 Lead O/S
with Beak 2
with Beak 2
steveb2006 20 Mar, 1993 AltLd Mike leads first pitch (crux)
Mike leads first pitch (crux)
MikePycroft 20 Mar, 1993 AltLd
Hidden 1 Sep, 1991 AltLd O/S
AndyB123 ??, 1988 2nd O/S
with Andy E
with Andy E
Hidden ?Oct, 1987 Lead O/S
DDDD ?May, 1987 Lead O/S
DDDD ?May, 1987 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1987 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
Pete Nugent 19 Apr, 1986 Lead
JamieAyres 8 Aug, 1985 2nd O/S in 1 pitch.
with Gareth Williams
in 1 pitch.
with Gareth Williams
Hidden ??, 1985 -
pete johnson ??, 1985 -
Nigel Coe 29 Sep, 1984 AltLd
Eduardo Martinez 8 Apr, 1984 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Hidden ??, 1984 AltLd O/S
tapley 9 Apr, 1983 AltLd
with Chris Seymour
with Chris Seymour
duncan ?Aug, 1982 2nd
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
with Dave who moved to New Zealand
charlesmfrench 25 Apr, 1982 2nd O/S
Pete Wimbush ?Jan, 1982 AltLd
with Paddy Gibson
with Paddy Gibson
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
Steve Bell ??, 1980 -
Davy Gunn ??, 1980 -
Steve Lewis 30 Sep, 1979 AltLd O/S
with Haydn Griffiths
with Haydn Griffiths
Hidden 26 Aug, 1979 Lead O/S
D Tempest ?Jan, 1976 AltLd
Rick51 5 May, 1974 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1966 AltLd
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 80
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 77
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set