Rockfax Description
A fun pitch that requires a number of interesting manoeuvres not found in the average rock climbing manual. Start at a large tree close to the back of the ledge, next to two acute overhangs.
Climb up the tree and fix a runner in the branches before stepping onto the slab above the overhangs. Without the aid of a large rock anchor bolt climb the slab to a peg at the base of a right-leaning flake. Climb the flake, peg, to its end and a useful iron spike runner. Pull up the steep wall above the flake and finish steeply leftwards on good holds, passing another iron spike runner midway. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Tree Climbing Routes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon VSes, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Avon gorge road to ruins HVS, Avon VS challenge.

JGriffiths 26/Nov/17 Lead rpt
alasdaircavaye 13/Nov/17 Lead O/S

An epic happened today. Climbed it pretty well and got to the top just as it was getting dark. Partner really struggled to get the traversing right sequence and was swung out right. Much faff lead to us giving up the seconder accent so I absailed down to collect gear (by this time around 7pm and dark). Ropes got stuck at the top stranding us on lunchtime ledge. help was called and ropes corrected by Dave Rex. Absailed off clarion at 9pm. Long day.

with Joseph Camfield
Jayden 24/Oct/17 Lead O/S
lizmuir 02/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with Charlie
CharlieMack 02/Oct/17 Lead O/S

Peg after crux is very rotten. Ok small wires behind lose block just above though. Good climbing through crux :)

with liz Muir
The Ivanator 23/Sep/17 Lead O/S

The vital peg at the start of the rising flake traverse is dubious (thin, rusty and mobile - the second former peg nearby is just a rotten stub). Found the moves up the traverse quite exciting, went rather a long way above the peg before achieving a relaxed enough position to place gear. Good route though.

with Rob
petecallaghan 17/Sep/17 2nd O/S

In trainers. Fun

badgerjockey 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Surprisingly excellent pitch! Another totally unique Avon route. Great use of tree and cracking flake traverse...

with Dan M
jameslomax 04/Aug/17 Lead rpt

Felt easier than the first time I did it, although it appears that one of the pegs just before the flake has come out (as I'm sure I remember there being two before), the remaining peg is dubious, in hindsight backing it up might've been wise but the flake offers good protection.

with Dom
tonto169 01/Jul/17 -
Jonesoc 30/Jun/17 Lead
jayuk0 14/Jun/17 2nd O/S
Will AKA Dave 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Fairly run out from top of flake until after "crux"

with Jay
DanJennings 13/Jun/17 2nd
Wendy Watthews 13/Jun/17 Lead rpt
TGHB 13/Jun/17 2nd dog

Made the same stupid mistake as last time

lieraza 09/Jun/17 Lead

I went too far right after the flake, also had to come back down to remove a piece of gear that was causing vicious rope drag. Need to do again properly. Coming out of the tree is fun, thought that was the best bit.

with Sarju, Julio
JoeCoxson 07/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Great fun, loved the step across from the tree

TGHB 07/Jun/17 2nd dog

Bloody slippery corner

with Joe
luke13 28/May/17 AltLd
with Rich
AWalker96 23/May/17 Lead

Probably the most fun I've had with trad so far

with Sam Huguet
andrewmc 14/May/17 Lead O/S

Moderately confident I went the right way; climbed to the top of the big crystalline flake then climbed straight up with a rock bolt about 6 foot to the left. If this was wrong feel free to let me know :) Also the second peg is removable although probably still good in a fall; think of it as a hand-placed peg :) the third peg is both rusty and tapped underneath a small loose block...

Hidden 14/May/17 2nd O/S
wjcdean 12/May/17 2nd O/S

felt rather sustained. the hand traverse and mantel were the crux for me. dropped a crab halfway like an idiot. had to ab back in to get it.

BStar 12/May/17 Lead rpt

Great route but I found it as hard as when I first did it. Tough move off the flake!

Jimbob64 10/May/17 Lead O/S
with Jim
thompsonjr21 05/May/17 2nd dog
JGriffiths 05/May/17 Lead rpt
with Gravy
jammy4536 02/May/17 Solo rpt
Ali D 28/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Nick pest
cpoad 21/Apr/17 Lead dnf

Couldn't commit to the move off the flake. Hadn't climbed at Avon for a year and hadn't warmed up sufficiently so wasn't flowing on the polished rock. Went round to the right.

with John S
Rich1Smith 20/Apr/17 2nd
TommyKips 19/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Apr/17 Lead
jessie 19/Apr/17 2nd

Had a massive fight with the gorse bush.

with Ciaran
Hidden 19/Apr/17 Lead O/S
jammy4536 19/Apr/17 Solo rpt
Rich Pitt 18/Apr/17 2nd dog
with Rich Smith, Joel
Sam Huguet 11/Apr/17 Lead β

My first lead in the gorge!

rosso 11/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with Sam H
foobar123 08/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Interesting move coming out of the tree onto the slab. Debated whether to sling the rock-catch anchor but thought that wasn't really in the spirit of it so soldiered on to the peg. For me the crux was coming past the first iron spike.

Hidden 08/Apr/17 2nd O/S
jameslomax 06/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Robbie
jammy4536 02/Apr/17 Solo rpt
faye 31/Mar/17 2nd O/S
rosso 31/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Faye
youwillfindjimbo 25/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Steve
Fatclimber 25/Mar/17 2nd rpt
with Jimbo
jammy4536 12/Mar/17 2nd rpt
Angrypenguin 12/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Rory, Jamie MacLeod
RoryLucas 11/Mar/17 2nd
elfka 09/Mar/17 2nd
mattprince 09/Mar/17 AltLd
steve_gibbs 18/Feb/17 Lead rpt
with henryspurr, Ed Causton
henryspurr 18/Feb/17 2nd O/S
with Ed Causton, steve_gibbs
Chris Sansum 22/Jan/17 AltLd rpt

Chris led. Getting onto the flake seemed hard - maybe because I hadn't climbed for 3 months, or maybe some of the footholds has become more polished recently? Also the big pocket was wet & muddy!

with Steve Collard
riff156 22/Jan/17 2nd rpt
Ashley King 14/Jan/17 Lead

Really fun as usual, move from the tree quite committing, but lots of good gear in the flake, moving over the top of the flake and around the corner slightly makes the big move a lot more manageable.

with Sam Young
Hidden 01/Jan/17 Lead
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Jim blackford 27/Nov/16 2nd rpt

Dan lead his first proper gorge climb in the dark with a headtorch, i followed with no light by feeling my way up.

with Arthur, Dan
RM199 27/Nov/16 2nd O/S
loonylovegood93 27/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Jim blackford 08/Nov/16 Lead O/S

first VS lead, i felt the gear was there when it was needed on the tough but not too desperate moves.

with Arthur
anthony.mayne 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Lovely move from the tree at the start.

with Anne
scorpia97 14/Oct/16 2nd rpt
with Caspian
Hidden 14/Oct/16 Lead
Hidden 13/Oct/16 Lead
adawson 13/Oct/16 2nd dog

Morning climb after a short and sleepless night on Lunchtime Ledge. Long story involving trying to remove a stubborn piece of gear in an awkward position at the beginning of the flake led to large swing over towards Direct route and a sketchy traverse back.

andrew549 16/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Luke C
maresia 30/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
with Tom Gape
Hidden 28/Aug/16 Lead
Hidden 26/Aug/16 -
paul79 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Legs 24/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Cracking move off the tree and the large flake at the crux. Tallness helps.

with Steve
steve_gibbs 24/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Tom Hobbs 22/Aug/16 Lead O/S
will484 17/Jul/16 2nd
with paul sheridan
c357 14/Jul/16 2nd
Hidden 14/Jul/16 Lead
Darrell Read 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Quite hard in places with challenging poorly protected moves. Rained as I topped out so Will slid off the wet rock when he tried to second. Abseiled off, rope got stuck, used someone else's to get down from lunchtime ledge and then retrieved from the top.

Bob Peters 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Sounds like we went too far right after the flake.

George.Rowland 06/Jul/16 2nd

Still find this hard for VS. The pegs would be better off in a museum really...

shoulders 02/Jul/16 2nd

Bailed out of pink wall traverse due to rain

richsmithinbristol 02/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Escaping the rain after trying to get to Pink Wall traverse

sambosanquet101 10/Jun/16 Lead
with Lucas Fries
mattharper 07/Jun/16 2nd
WillAndrew 07/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Anouk Spelt 05/Jun/16 2nd
Chris Harbour 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 05/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Sverre Aarseth Tunstad 03/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Got lost, missed the "beached whale-move" on top of the flake, but still enjoyed the route.

with Sam de Belder
Hidden 02/Jun/16 2nd rpt
mlcumberlidge 02/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Really fun climb. Difficult move to get above the flake.

leobold 16/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/May/16 Lead O/S
Matt Smith 08/May/16 Lead O/S

Cool climb up the tree to start, very nice route.

Hidden 08/May/16 2nd O/S
Gibbo 07/May/16 2nd
with James Thompson
Hidden 28/Apr/16 Lead
rosso 27/Apr/16 Lead

After the flake I went left to climb up a crack which was not part of the proper route. Next time I will try to go straight up the flake.

with Ben Steel
Hidden 24/Apr/16 Lead
Dino Dave 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Mel
Kemics 24/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Gear on rock bolts, shit pegs and random iron work...classic Avon. Climbing is fun, good rock quality and enjoyed the juggy finish

with Hebe
riccynino 20/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Alistair Cavaye, Ben Steel
nathanjmasters 02/Apr/16 Lead
with Elliott Worsey
Hidden 10/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Mar/16 2nd
adawson 24/Feb/16 2nd
Hidden 24/Feb/16 2nd
Ashley King 24/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Second lead in the gorge, great start from the tree, really enjoyable route, well protected, with a scary view however. Would always recommend to others to do, loved it.

with Adam, James
Bristol_Quornstar 16/Feb/16 Lead rpt
with Sam de Belder
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Doug miller 23/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Laurence20 20/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Initially moved too far to the Right at the top of the flake, but traversed back for the right line.

with Callum Mackay
Angrypenguin 29/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Cat
catty_9 29/Sep/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S
c jepps 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
HardmanJ 26/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Esoteric at best near the end. Traverse was a little scary but moves were not hard.

PaddyAdams 21/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 21/Sep/15 Lead
9fingerjon 20/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Matt
Hidden 20/Sep/15 2nd
DavidWilby 07/Sep/15 2nd
m_andersson 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S

A really fun and unusual climb. Being greeted by a live jazzband at the top did not make it any less memorable!

joeurwin 03/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Nice to come back and lead this. Rusty pegs, nice traverse, tree, didn't really think hard enough about protection so the rope drag at the top was disgusting. Lovely.

with Dave
DaveX 03/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Seconded, clambering about up here with a rucksack isn't a huge amount of fun but an interesting pitch still.

Rob Moorcroft 30/Aug/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
BStar 27/Aug/15 Lead O/S

A fun start followed by a committing pull up from the top of the flake. I've certainly done easier VS routes. Wasn't sure if I could actually do the move off the flake for some time but got it in the end. Finished with just enough light left. Good seconding by Rachael :)

with Rachael
Rachael88 27/Aug/15 2nd

In reflection I quite enjoyed the route! My first time climbing a tree, the traverse across the flake was harder than Adam made it look. I was glad of a rope when I got to the first iron stake as the pull up on the open crimp was 'interesting'

with Adam
my 22/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/15 Lead rpt
JGriffiths 18/Aug/15 Lead O/S
AshBarnes 18/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Jake, Gravy
thompsonjr21 18/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Climbed as a 3 again, Jake led, Ash second, me last. I was on the right of the half ropes, first bit of gear on that was pretty high up so i would have had a big swing if i came off so was a bit nervous.

Lukem6 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Jenny Monkey 09/Aug/15 2nd
Scottysparks 04/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Came off on the flake, managed to recover.

with Tony McPhillips
Hidden 28/Jul/15 Lead
riff156 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Tim Gill
67hours 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Moving off the flake seemed significantly trickier than moving off the tree!

with Emilyford, Oweeeen
ali.scott 02/Jul/15 Lead O/S
WillAndrew 02/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Ali
Hidden 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S
my 01/Jul/15 2nd
jammy4536 16/Jun/15 Solo rpt
Hidden 14/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/15 Lead rpt
clmacdonald 06/Jun/15 Lead

Fun start at the tree!

tskelhon 06/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 2nd O/S
9fingerjon 27/May/15 2nd O/S
with Dan
danieleaston 27/May/15 Lead O/S
with Jon
jammy4536 23/May/15 Solo rpt
Hidden 22/May/15 Lead
Hidden 11/May/15 2nd
tcn_2002 10/May/15 2nd
Hidden 10/May/15 Lead
HowieB 07/May/15 Lead
with Andy
gobbledigook 02/May/15 2nd O/S
aiyer ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 30/Apr/15 2nd
DoMakeSayThink 22/Apr/15 2nd

Seconded Alasdair. Great fun!

purpledistorsion 22/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Apr/15 Lead O/S
will_benfold 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Felt quite sketchy moving up from the flake, very glad to have a sling on the spike.

Fatclimber 12/Apr/15 Lead dog

Needed a rest before commiting to the flake.

Hidden 12/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 09/Apr/15 2nd O/S
danbirkby 07/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Nige
will_lake 05/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Richardlake 05/Apr/15 Lead β
Hidden 26/Mar/15 2nd
Zolly Whitaker 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Zoe Hebblethwaite, Laurence Falconer
laurence_falconer 22/Mar/15 Lead
duncanedgley 18/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Scary in many places, but also pretty exciting. Tree start felt great!

with George Caren, Ash King
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
steve_gibbs 08/Dec/14 Lead rpt
with Sunny Shah
s1362083 08/Dec/14 2nd
zcsharp 18/Nov/14 Lead rpt

Lead in the dark

with Sam Hooper
Hidden 28/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 18/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/14 Lead
hutchay 20/Sep/14 2nd rpt
felixizzy 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Good value for VS and wicked start.

with Mike
Steve Bartle 14/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Rob Morgan 14/Sep/14 Lead

The tree move wasn't too bad. Getting up off the flake felt hard, had to back off and move round to the right - doesn't feel like a proper tick for the route.

Nialllusby 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Started up a tree. Chucked a hex into the crack.

with Emma Ross
Hidden 14/Sep/14 2nd O/S
hutchay 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Fliss
DavidWilby 07/Sep/14 2nd dog
Nathan Chrismas 07/Sep/14 2nd
marcb 01/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Joe Schenk
clams ?/Sep/14 Lead
with Catherine+Lucy
CatMc ?/Sep/14 2nd
with Lucy, clams
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 13/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Alex Winter 04/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Nice. Steady solo, positive holds all the way.

jon bradley 11/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Huw Howells
Angrypenguin 17/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Not sure we got the top quite right but close enough.

with Cat
catty_9 17/Jun/14 Lead

Not sure I really did the second half of the climb. Was great fun up to the top of the flake but I couldn't get up the steep face after that, was struggling to reach for a hand hold and couldn't work out how to get established without it. Ended up escaping round the right slightly into a corner and then trying to come back across onto petros, but I don't think I finished up far enough left

Hidden 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Steve Bartle 06/Jun/14 2nd O/S
George.Rowland 03/Jun/14 2nd rpt

start of the traverse still feels pretty exposed as a second, quite a different line from the last time...

Hidden 03/Jun/14 Lead rpt
hp.hunt 17/May/14 2nd O/S

Scary in places

with Sam Hooper
jon_ridley 16/May/14 Lead O/S
danbirkby 09/May/14 Lead O/S
with Gordon
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Apr/14 Lead rpt
emilyjhunt 04/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Mar/14 2nd O/S
laurence_falconer 12/Mar/14 Lead

Excellent climb as allways. A large portion of the traversing flake seems to have broken away, changing the moves somewhat, but leaving it at the same grade in my opinion. Lots of rope drag due to having to protect 2 seconds.

with Jonathn Walsh, Thom Jenkinson
Psych ?/Mar/14 Lead O/S
TDSvejstrup 24/Feb/14 2nd rpt
jammy4536 24/Feb/14 Lead O/S

Very interesting start. Climb up the tree and then if you're tall get a nut behind the bolt plate, before converting to the rock. Luckily very grippy first 2/3m to the small crack. Just be careful with which rope you clip, as extremely prone to rope drag.

Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
adam6509 ??/2014 Lead
with will bugden
Hugobristol ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Liam
Hidden 27/Nov/13 Lead
ollie_e 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
chrisscutt 24/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with oly
Hidden 16/Nov/13 2nd O/S
justaddpowder 09/Oct/13 Lead
machine45 09/Oct/13 2nd O/S

A good climb with an interesting start climbing the tree.

with Mark Madge
saraguti 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with rick sewards
sheelba 20/Sep/13 Lead
George Frisby 06/Sep/13 Lead rpt
ali macphee 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
will_lake 19/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Richardlake 19/Aug/13 2nd O/S
pheotleyr 12/Aug/13 Lead rpt

Good as always, relaxed as never before...

with Roman
tommy.henriksson78 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

A nice climb, with some hard moves to climb up the wall after the iron spike runner.

with Djamal Berraki
Hidden 08/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Slick 06/Aug/13 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Matthew Martin Wsm 01/Aug/13 Lead
with marc fenton
blaza1 11/Jul/13 Lead
BeccaSnowden 11/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Alex Blaza
Deary65 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Easier 2nd half. Good protection.

katherinesydney 05/Jul/13 2nd rpt

I'd forgotten everything but the start, but its all good!

with mike bath
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Bristol_Quornstar 20/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Stanners 20/Jun/13 Lead rpt

great fun. Sweating buckets at the top with such high humidity!

with Alex Rhodes
laurashaw 17/Jun/13 2nd O/S
laurence_falconer 17/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S
VPJB 09/Jun/13 Lead
Stuart William 06/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Ben F
Dr Toph 05/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Well fun hopping from the tree onto the slab!

jacksonm1 01/Jun/13 2nd O/S
BeccaSnowden 27/May/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant! Loved it :)

with Ben
georgeevans88 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with kirsten
kirsten 26/May/13 2nd

felt stiff for vs

with george
pheotleyr 05/May/13 2nd rpt

4th time I've done this. Always good.

with Caleb
Kemics 05/May/13 Lead O/S

Fixed a bomber runner on the bolt before stepping to the slab. Didn't pass any other fixed iron work so perhaps a little off line? A few fairly bold sections and crap pegs.

with Peter
George.Rowland 01/May/13 2nd

Interesting start and an exposed traverse adds up to great climb.

Eagertom 01/May/13 2nd rpt

Second time I've done it. Harder with a bag on, and warm weather made my shoes uncomfy. Still a great climb though

laurence_falconer 01/May/13 Lead β

Excellent lead, very exciting and also my first VS lead. Route is also quite severe for second due to traversing sections.

Hidden 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
pftom 26/Apr/13 Lead O/S
simonf 16/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Mike
localboy 16/Apr/13 2nd rpt

Now i remember the gorse bush!

with Simon F
Gavdee1 02/Mar/13 2nd
Kevster 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
GeorgT ?/Mar/13 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 24/Feb/13 2nd rpt
with Ben
Cheese Monkey 24/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Much fun!

with Peter
Hidden 18/Feb/13 2nd O/S
zcsharp 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Cat
steve_gibbs 11/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Eagertom 30/Jan/13 Lead

Semi-committing step from the tree to the face, but fantastic juggy moves on a traverse made this a very enjoyable climb.

laurence_falconer 30/Jan/13 2nd

Excelent route, fun tree climb to start off and then an exciting and steep climb round the flake protected by 2 pegs. Really very fun!

Hidden 06/Dec/12 2nd RP
evhall 20/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Dave F
riff156 13/Oct/12 Lead rpt
with Jo Smith
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead
Stuart William 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Ran Dawn Walk into Petros. Really good day out. Plenty of gear and nice varied climbing, steepish at times but on bomber holds and never hard.

with Pleb
wurzelinzummerset 07/Sep/12 2nd
with Ric
bonelessivar 07/Sep/12 Lead

Grabbed the bolt thingy coming out of the tree and may have gone too far right past the flake.

Hidden 03/Sep/12 2nd
Bex_M 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
Hidden 25/Aug/12 2nd O/S
steve-grigg 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 18/Aug/12 Lead dog

held on to bolt thingy after launching off of the tree :)

arandall 18/Aug/12 2nd O/S
katherinesydney 11/Aug/12 2nd O/S

some good moves. especially the one from the tree!

riff156 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Ali Cann
James Smith 30/Jul/12 Lead O/S

start up the tree was fun in a strange sort of way, points for quirkyness!

with cameron
colin milton 28/Jul/12 2nd
with peter
pheotleyr 28/Jul/12 Lead rpt

did the correct version this time, going straight up from the flake. not too easy. great and exposed climb. fantastic!

with Colin
jameslam ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Patrick
OC24 ?/Jul/12 2nd
squicky 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Hard getting off the tree but great route with excellent positions and exposure and good gear.

with George
Hidden 12/Jun/12 Lead
Murilo Lessa 10/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Alex Desborough
Ragingpossum 04/Jun/12 2nd rpt

Followed the correct route this time and found it significantly easier. Very happy to lead this now I know the correct route.

Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead rpt
HarryB 01/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Jonny
Ali D 31/May/12 Lead O/S
with Camilla, Harry B
HarryB 31/May/12 2nd rpt
with Camilla, Al
Quarryboy 31/May/12 2nd rpt

Fun as ever.

JamesRich 31/May/12 Lead O/S

Took a bit of time trying to get established on the slab which is actually quite easy when you go for it. If it wasn't so polished I reckon it would be worth at least 2 stars.

Hidden 24/May/12 2nd
Kyle87 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 13/May/12 Lead

Always a fun way off the ledge. Still haven't tried the direct start without the tree

with Jason
George Frisby 12/May/12 2nd O/S
stafford101 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Memorable start, thought provoking flake, and balancy crux.

TDSvejstrup 12/May/12 Lead O/S
mchandy 12/May/12 2nd O/S
with Tom
Voltemands 14/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Interesting start.

AndyMcCoy 05/Apr/12 2nd
with Gregor
Greg M 05/Apr/12 Lead
ben.richards 30/Mar/12 2nd O/S

Really nice route. Bit of a 'step of faith' out of the tree! Nice moves up the flake and on the top wall.

flyinfrenchy 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Dave Ing 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Peter
pheotleyr 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S

might have gone a little too far right from the end of the flake

with dave
Ragingpossum 10/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with harry kingston
Dave 88 29/Feb/12 2nd O/S
ollie_e 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Good fun, definite VS. No problems other than rope drag and some shitty rock in places.

with Chris
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd
sophiecb 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Great fun, quirky climbing. Outrageous route for a VS! This gets three stars from me :)

jezb1 08/Jan/12 2nd

An odd / interesting route. Fairly stiff for the grade I reckon.

abtibbs ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack Verber
saintlade ??/2012 -

Couldn't fiddle a sling behind the plate of the bolt, so slipped the wires of 2 large nuts down either side clipped together. Pegs look a little tired, big hex would have been useful for protecting the flake moves.

Hidden 06/Dec/11 Lead
Bobby Pearson 06/Nov/11 2nd

Big bold move to get onto the face, then big juggy flake, steep and committing route with good holds.

Katherine Ross 21/Sep/11 Lead dnf

First trad lead fall! I seconded this ok a while ago so thought it would be ok, however I came off while moving up off the flake. A bomber hex held the fall. Decided to leave it for another day and finished up Direct Route. Rope-drag-tastic!

scorpia97 08/Sep/11 Solo O/S
joedoherty 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Nick Russell 30/Aug/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 29/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Beth
BethM 29/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Weird move off the tree, good fun.

Hidden 17/Aug/11 2nd
Slick 16/Aug/11 2nd
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Isabel Evans
Hidden 11/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
stujamo 10/Aug/11 2nd
with K.Ansell
SamStokes 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Amazing!!!! Loved this route and had a helicopter hovering behind me just to add to the atmosphere! Cracking route!

Slick 09/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 09/Aug/11 2nd
mandy 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with leyland
cwildblood 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
AndyMcCoy 23/Jun/11 Lead dnf
with Nathan
BridgetteB 02/Jun/11 2nd

Getting out of the tree was fun, a couple of the moves weren't kind on my shoulder, mainly traversing the crumbling ledge with thin holds. Not one of my favourite.

with P Ross
Chris Sansum 15/May/11 Lead rpt
with Elena Songprasert
Jeavsy 06/May/11 2nd

Another early leave from work! Beautiful sunny afternoon. A tough climb - glad I wasn't leading!

with Matt Swannell
crossdressingrodney 15/Apr/11 Lead O/S

The famous move is good fun. Easier and very protectable for the tall. Relies entirely on crap old pegs until you are committed to the steep flake though - not too be undertaken lightly in my opinion. Is this really worth 2 stars?

with john h
Quirina 11/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Cornish_James 27/Mar/11 2nd
with Johnny Sneller, Ross Davidson
HarryB 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
halfwaythere 22/Mar/11 2nd
nick hawkins 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with peter
Kylie 19/Mar/11 2nd

Cheated massively on almost every part of the route! I think I found it harder than the first time I did it.

mullermn 19/Mar/11 Lead rpt

Climbed in much better style this time. Happy that I got the line right too.

Stanners 12/Mar/11 Lead O/S

awesome climbing with great gear. loads of rope drag with single rope

Quarryboy 12/Mar/11 2nd rpt

Led this a few weeks ago with Trebbers but the quality of the climbing is good and I much enjoyed doing it again.

Quarryboy 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Great climbing steep and juggy, bomber gear and big moves. Top quality a must do.

with Jack Treble
joeurwin 09/Feb/11 2nd O/S
RagingPuffin 09/Feb/11 Lead rpt
31770 ??/2011 -
tommoulds 11/Dec/10 Lead O/S
with Schramm
mark schramm 11/Dec/10 -
with tom m
minexplorer 25/Sep/10 Lead

finishing pitch after climbing dexter.nice bold feeling delicate climbing with sparse prot LOVE IT!

Stan011 25/Sep/10 2nd
with Mike Coles
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Kingsjester 09/Aug/10 2nd β

Tricky across the traverse, but a nice route.

simeclimb68 09/Aug/10 Lead O/S
PaulWatson 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt

YES! Got past the pegs this time, not too hard when you know how, but went too far right thereafter so cant really tick this yet. Perhaps I'd had enough exposed slabs for one night - and it was getting dark.

with Dan, Trevor
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jason Williams
grp ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S

scary,lots of rope drag made it feel harder. was a good introduction to multipitch trad for my second

simonf 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mike
localboy 27/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Simon F
Hidden 05/Jul/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
dan ely 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with jesse
SharonC1604 02/Jun/10 2nd O/S
TDembrey 25/May/10 Lead O/S
with Jana
ron244 20/May/10 Lead O/S
with Peter Bird
Hidden 17/May/10 Lead rpt
Tom Brierley Gore 17/May/10 2nd O/S
Clay C 11/May/10 Lead O/S
with Will A
Hidden 11/May/10 2nd
PaulWatson 04/May/10 Lead dnf

Oh dear, got the better of me this. Transfer form tree easier than it looks, getting past the pegs, on slippery holds, not easy.

with Ian K
aipattison 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Katherine Ross
Katherine Ross 28/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/10 2nd
davidwright 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Sam
7om 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
andy dunn 10/Apr/10 2nd rpt
with J
Pete.ent 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with 7om
Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd
rg1976 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
Fred_Richard ??/2010 Lead
catemuir 31/Oct/09 2nd

Liked the stepping across from the tree at the start, good fun!

with Calum Smith
Chris Sansum 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Matt Lunn
mullermn 19/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Nice climb, might have got a little off route. Step across from the tree is surprisingly difficult

Kylie 19/Sep/09 2nd dog

Fell off just after the transfer from the tree. Hard route!

andy dunn 31/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Bessie
TimPerkin 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Richard Harris
willworkforfoodjnr 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S


with grubes
grubes 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Chris
Marti999 08/Jun/09 Lead O/S
briar4012 08/Jun/09 2nd O/S
with Marti
Quirina 02/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead
ruaidh 16/May/09 Lead O/S

Start the pitch by climbin a tree (?!). Keep a thin sling handy to pop around the bolt before you bridge from the tree to the overhanging slab. Then getting onto the big flake to the right (peg) is a bit tricky and the flake itself offers good practice for placing gear, in this case big hexes, while hanging off your other hand. After the flake you cut back left up a short wall and then more up and left on steps, so I'd advice using long slings in the flake and short wall to avoid the drag.

with tom and isabelle
Monk 10/May/09 Lead rpt

This felt pretty hard and scary for a VS. Those pegs are looking a bit tired now.

with Bethan
Andy White 26/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Climbed with rucksack, topping out in the dark

with Anna Rothwell
Wrighty87 06/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Topped out on Dexter with this climb, very interesting and worth doing. Fun start using the tree and a really nice flake to work with before tackling the overhang. Avoid getting too stuck in the bush though as it hurts!

with Chris Mountford
Andy Peak 1 02/Apr/09 Lead

grate start out of the tree, but boteld the step up onto the slab on the second part must go back and do it direct

with mad phill and her bother
London Luke ?/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
jon thompson27 ?/Mar/09 Lead
with Alex Thompson
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 -
Kenemo ??/2009 -
EmmanuelF 11/Oct/08 Lead O/S

don't forget to backup the fence with some shrubbery

MagnusL ?/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Bobby Pearson 28/Sep/08 2nd
nicksdavies17 28/Sep/08 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
pelvoux 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Mario
Humpty Dangler 19/May/08 2nd O/S

Good way to finish the evening, even if it was getting dark and Jordan kept finding new bushes to get into a fight with. Jumping off the tree onto the start of the climb was fun, and the moves along the flake crack were brilliant, and only slightly reduced in quality by the huge amount of polish.

Hidden 19/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/08 Lead β
brady 11/May/08 Lead dnf

Bottled out after the flake, and escaped right.Quite bold I thought!

with Hilary
bpmclimb 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 10/May/08 2nd
Hidden 07/May/08 Lead rpt
scorpia97 17/Apr/08 Lead
with Caspian
Hidden 17/Apr/08 2nd
Theeni 09/Mar/08 Lead O/S

RMAS with novice

Hidden 30/Jan/08 -
Hidden 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S
Circus 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Maybe I was off-route towards the top but it felt quite scary for VS. Maybe I just need to climb at Avon more.

with Loz
Dr Caterpillar 20/Oct/07 2nd O/S

circus is very modest. if we were on route its HVS 4c no doubt

with Adam
Hidden 15/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/07 Lead
Al Franks 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
RagingPuffin 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Emma Ross
Hidden 08/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/07 Lead rpt
thomasadixon 27/Aug/07 Lead O/S

One tough move (or was I having a bad day?), nice route though. Watch the wasps nest.

with Matt Frank
Mark Walter 19/Aug/07 2nd
Eccentric 19/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Nice varied and interesting climb, altho nearly set up belay in a wasps nest at top.

maresia 14/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Jason Gotel ?/Jun/07 Lead


with Shiv
Hidden 29/May/07 2nd O/S
Owen W-G 05/May/07 Lead O/S
with Tony Seale
Hidden ??/2007 -
flatcap 15/Oct/06 2nd dog

Hmm... a bit more taxing. Damned glad I didn't have to lead this one (4b). I got to a large bulge of rock and foundered; I wasn't confident of my hand holds. After one fall, I managed it and the rest of the climb was easy.

with IanI
Hidden 19/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Outdoorfun37 10/Apr/06 Lead
with Spitz
sdi 09/Feb/06 2nd

Done to get to the top after I led Mike's Mistake

with Tom K
Marcus ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Tamlyn ??/2006 Lead O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 -
Hidden 23/Nov/05 Lead O/S
pattisonr ?/Jul/05 -
with Matt
Bux ?/May/05 Lead rpt
with Rupert Bassadone
mwh 20/Apr/05 2nd O/S
gripped01 ?/Apr/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
cat22 ??/2005 2nd dog
with Will S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2005 2nd O/S
Kev Webster 05/Aug/04 AltLd
KarlH 17/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Tom Hales
Mark Davies PK ?/Jun/04 2nd O/S
with Ryan K
Hidden ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
James Jackson ?/Mar/04 2nd
Richard Hall ??/2004 Lead

First climbed with IH (I think). Prob 2004ish

with Ian Hawkins
krikoman 11/Oct/03 2nd O/S
five ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
EllieWoods ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Simon Greenslade
Lev 11/Jul/03 Lead rpt
with Claire Durant
Paz ?/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Boxy 10/May/03 Lead O/S
Lev 30/Apr/03 Lead dnf

Got about half way when we noticed ambulences at the base of the crag, decied to climb down and ab off to find out what was going on.

with Claire Durant
greedo 06/Mar/03 Lead O/S

Led by headtorch.

with Colin knowles
evhall 24/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with jerzy
Lev 12/Aug/02 2nd O/S
with Tom Elliot
Hidden ?/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr ?/Apr/02 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2002 2nd O/S
gimmer ??/2001 -
Hidden ?/May/00 2nd
alan moore ??/2000 -
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
kevp 11/Oct/98 Lead O/S
with Jasen Ainley
chrisrogers ?/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with Steve J
jim_randell 08/Jul/97 2nd rpt

Possibly a little ambitious given the form of the party. We just managed to top out before dark.

with WW
Didymus 04/Sep/96 2nd O/S
with Marcus
colin milton 05/Apr/96 2nd dog
with eric milton
jim_randell 27/Apr/95 Lead rpt
with SL
mikej 11/Apr/95 Lead
with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Simon Caldwell ??/1995 -

We definitely did something there that involved climbing a tree so I assume it must have been this one!

with Ian A and Mike
Tom Vivian 29/Nov/94 AltLd
chris sm 06/Oct/94 Lead O/S
with Martin Sime
jim_randell 19/Aug/94 Lead O/S
with FW
Hidden 12/Aug/89 -
AndyB123 ??/1989 AltLd
with Andy E
sniffer ??/1988 2nd
with Paul Thomas
Moses 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/87 Lead O/S
mikej 01/Jul/87 Lead
with Pete Rowbottom
Tony Buckley ?/Jul/87 Lead
with Robert Clark
Bullybones ??/1987 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/85 Lead
Pete Nugent 02/Feb/85 2nd
with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
JamieAyres ??/1985 Lead O/S
with some geezer I met down the Gorge
Hidden 05/Dec/82 Lead
duncan ?/Aug/82 Solo O/S
John Marsland ?/Jun/82 Lead
with Karen Creek
AlanLittle ??/1982 AltLd
stp 09/May/81 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1981 -
charlesmfrench ??/1978 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/76 2nd O/S
Rob Davies 02/Nov/75 2nd
with Bob Lowe (CUMC)
Nigel Bond 19/Aug/73 Lead
with John
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1970 Lead
Hidden ??/1965 AltLd
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 76
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 70
Votes cast 64
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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