Rockfax Description
A long and very popular route most suited to those who appreciate an audience. The climbing is fairly tricky in places but the belays are comfortable and the views of the suspension bridge spectacular. Start on a sloping ledge at the toe of the buttress with good nut belays in a small corner.
1) 4c, 25m. Move up and step right to a small corner just right of the arete. Make some technical moves on sloping holds up the small corner, before it becomes possible to move back left onto the front face of the buttress and climb a narrow corner to a bulging arete above, peg. Pull awkwardly left around the arete and climb to easier ground that leads to a large belay beneath an overhang.
2) 4a, 23m. Skirt the overhang on the left before heading back right and following short walls and ledges up to another large belay ledge below an overhanging wall.
3) 4c, 25m. Pull left around the arete to a hand-ledge and make a difficult move up to attain a standing position on it. Move left a little way to a corner and climb up to a ledge. Continue up the wall above to a corner and climb this before trending slightly right to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An absolutely cracking climb which follows the exposed arete from bottom to top, via the hermits cave railings!
Three pitches: 4c, -, 4c.
The first pitch is technically the crux, with thin but adequate protection, followed by a rather rambling pitch (spice can be added by taking the roof direct at HVS). The Final pitch is the highlight of the climb, plunging you into immediate exposure as you step off the belay. Remember to say hi to tourists in the cave, its only polite...

A Hicklin, F E Bennett (in Spring) 01/Jan/1958

Ticklists: Avon Gorge non-Extremes, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, 100 More Classic British VS Climbs, Avon VSes, South West Climbs for a Northerner, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Avon VS challenge, No Car? No Problem! (Cardiff).

spragglerocks 12/Oct AltLd O/S

Led p1 and 3. Good fun.

with John
Hidden 12/Oct AltLd O/S
foostu4 06/Sep AltLd O/S

P1+ 3

alexjrt94 12/Aug 2nd
with James
markfromstoke 12/Aug AltLd
with Steve N
TGHB 09/Aug 2nd O/S

Lovely exposure during pitch 3, rewarded with a stunning sunset for our efforts

JoeCoxson 09/Aug AltLd rpt

Nice evening route, almost rained off

Legs 31/Jul AltLd
Rob Morgan 31/Jul AltLd

Led P3. The step-up ledge was smoother and more steeply angled than I remember! It's a big move but fantastic to do. Final climb of a 30 pitch birthday challenge, great way to end it.

with Max
jammy4536 18/Jul Lead rpt
with Cat Johns, Viktoria Zekoll
Hidden 18/Jul AltLd
catty_9 18/Jul 2nd rpt

Jamie led all pitches. Lovely afternoon out to get Viktoria to climb it just before she graduated

with Viktoria Zekoll, Jamie MacLeod
GeorgeR 18/Jul AltLd

Led P2. Joel led P1 & 3.

with Joel Phillips
will_lake 15/Jul AltLd O/S
Richardlake 15/Jul AltLd O/S

Pitch 3

Sverre Aarseth Tunstad 12/Jul Lead rpt

Led 1st and 3rd pitch

tom.wp6 12/Jul AltLd O/S

I led the middle (easy) pitch. Some slightly spicy moves on the first and last pitches. Great climb.

JakeBest 18/Jun Lead O/S

Found a pair of reading glasses at the first belay. You probably can't read this but if you want them back, drop me a message.

with Dan Everitt
KatePG 18/Jun 2nd O/S
with Ali
SJPowderham1 18/Jun AltLd rpt
ali.scott 18/Jun Lead rpt

soooo hot! shirtless and not much water were poor choices. kate left a red offset in the second belay as she couldn't reach it - would be great if whoever finds it could message me. Was tagged with my name / email.

with KatePG
SJPowderham1 17/Jun Lead
Hidden 03/Jun Lead
Connorolfe 31/May Lead O/S
PastyBoy84 27/May Lead O/S
joshuahix1 27/May 2nd O/S
with Daniel Heaton
Hidden 27/May 2nd O/S
daniel heaton 27/May Lead O/S
with Josh
trouserburp 14/May AltLd O/S

Much less polished than piton route but still a bit polished. Lovely belay ledges. May have gone off route. Seems like whole climb everything slopes away to the right

Jim blackford 10/May Lead rpt

Took chris up his first classic avon VS - some holds felt like ice rinks in the heat! took the HVS 2nd pitch

Hidden 06/May 2nd rpt
Bobling 23/Apr AltLd

Wow, five years since I last did this! New guidebook's description a bit prescriptive for my taste. I'd forgotten the move round the corner on pitch 3. Topped out to balloons, sunshine and beautiful view of the bridge. Avontastic.

with Dave B
Hidden 23/Apr AltLd O/S
frank ramsay 15/Apr Lead
with Thea Ramsay
lieraza 11/Apr AltLd dnf

P1 only. Turns out we didn't have enough time to do this route after work. P1 seemed a bit alarming, well led by Julio.

with Jerzy, Julio
Charlie Low 04/Apr AltLd O/S

Maybe the best top out location ever? Climbing with lots of spectators on the Suspension Bridge and topping out onto the Downs to a load of surprised onlookers was pretty surreal, especially having to walk through Clifton fully racked up to get back to the car! Pretty good post-work adventure! Led P3 (ran P1 and P2 together).

with Jo Hicks
faye 02/Apr 2nd O/S
rosso 02/Apr Lead rpt

Wonderful day, sunny and little wind. Joined together pitch one and two, including HVS variation. Bold start, but the best move remains matelling on the ledge by the balcony.

with Faye
Jimbob64 31/Mar AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

with Simon
Strife 31/Mar AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 3 in one go - the perks of 70m ropes. Felt soft for VS

Mike Hood 28/Mar Lead
gavin.edwards 26/Mar AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 and 3.

aiyer 26/Mar AltLd

Lead P2 and P3

with Wendy
Wendy Watthews 26/Mar AltLd O/S

Lead p1, valiant effort by Abby 4 weeks after the metal was removed from her arm. Nut left behind on the first pitch, whilst genuine crag swag I can offer home made brownies if returned.

with Abby
mikedevcole 26/Mar AltLd rpt
Jim blackford 21/Mar 2nd rpt

Alex mooed his way up in a cowsuit

Bristol_Quornstar 21/Mar Lead rpt

Birthday bash dressed in a cow suit. Yes, the locals looked bemused!

with Jim Blackford
Steve Bartle 17/Mar AltLd rpt

1st pitch harder than I remember. A very 'Avon' start to a VS. Didn't realise the wind was going to be quite so gusty. Getting off the belay for the last pitch took a while due to the gusts! Just about beat the rain...well I did anyway, Dan wasn't so lucky. Led p2 and p3

danieleaston 17/Mar AltLd rpt

Cold and very windy

with Steve
ClimberRGM ?/Mar AltLd O/S
Green_t 24/Feb AltLd rpt

Night climbing made this into an interesting experience! I led pitch 1 and 3, Alex led 5a alternative to middle pitch.

Hidden 18/Feb Lead O/S
Bristol_Quornstar 12/Feb AltLd rpt

Night climb by head torch, inc 5a middle pitch alternative. Good way to spend a sunday night :)

johnself1603 04/Feb AltLd β
with Miles Jones
Kayan 29/Dec/16 AltLd
Hidden 29/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
onlyfoddington 29/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1, managed to keep my head despite James crashing his drone.

Sverre Aarseth Tunstad 07/Dec/16 Lead O/S
with Adam Buckley
Hidden 04/Dec/16 AltLd
Green_t 30/Nov/16 AltLd
with Hannah Glatzel, Alex_RhodesUK
Bristol_Quornstar 30/Nov/16 AltLd

Led P1 & 3

with Sam de Belder, Adam Buckley, Tab Green
JGriffiths 29/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 and 3.

Jim blackford 23/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Arthur
Adam Hill 10/Nov/16 AltLd
with Pete
Drummerboy444 06/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3

with Tom W
jammy4536 22/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Alasdair Cavaye
Hidden 22/Sep/16 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Sep/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
Rmjmarlow 08/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Chris Cardwell
will_benfold 04/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1

with Ian Maybury, Helen Alexander
Dave Latimer 01/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
nathanjmasters 30/Aug/16 AltLd

A beautiful evening climb in the warm summer sun. Lydia leading the 1st and 3rd pitches. Took her first lead fall on the step round in immediate view of the cave dwellers. Thankfully not very far and made all of the rest of the climb look very comfortable.

with Lydia King
maresia 26/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
with Tom Gape
Hidden 17/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
wilkinscl 16/Aug/16 Lead rpt

1st pitch gets scarier every time. Went left too early and had a scrap to get back on line.

with Katharine
ecromwell 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Great climbing in great positions. A bit polished, especially the glassy mantle. Timed perfectly for the Balloon fiesta release which never happenned!

with Harvey
CasualLime 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
acer2012 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with James Cleves
Angrypenguin 15/Jul/16 AltLd rpt

Lead p1, p3. Scary move at beginning of p3 no longer scary... Must be getting stronger. Great route.

with Cat
catty_9 15/Jul/16 AltLd

Led just p2 this time. Still my favourite route in the gorge!

Claireybloomers 13/Jul/16 2nd
with Andy
andy dunn 13/Jul/16 Lead
with Claire
Vincej 10/Jul/16 AltLd
with Hooo
leobold 10/Jul/16 -
Hooo 10/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & 3. Pitch 1 is very polished and needs great care. Started raining pretty hard when I got to the top of P2, so we sheltered for half an hour deciding whether to bail or not. After 10 mins of sun the rock was dry again so I swung round the corner - it is quite a move for the exposure! After the first section it's easy and unprotected. Top out was an undignified crawl up slippery wet grass in front of bemused tourists.

with Vince
Darrell Read 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S
alan1234 09/Jul/16 Lead
nathanjmasters 07/Jul/16 AltLd rpt
DavidWilby 07/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Awesome climb finally ticked off. Lead first two pitches. Nathan lead third. None of the audience I was promised!

No? Yes! 07/Jul/16 Lead

Agree with previous comment - scrappy 2nd pitch - 2* route

with John the Dec
monkeyru 27/Jun/16 2nd
with Dan
danieleaston 27/Jun/16 Lead rpt

Pulled off a hold on p2. Can't be 3* with that middle pitch.

with Ruth
LanceSolf 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Lead first and last pitches

nathanjmasters 05/Jun/16 AltLd

A beautiful climb, if not hot and sweaty, in the midday sun. I led the first pitch, with Peter taking over the reins on the second and third pitches. Surprised by the amount of loose rock at the top (even for Avon!) but loved the committed moves. Topped out for a BBQ and beers. Great day!

SimonWooden 05/Jun/16 AltLd

Not recommended as route out of gorge with heavy rucksacks on hot day!

with Mark Lewis
UBES_Bristol_Expeditions 05/Jun/16 AltLd
rosso 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Beautiful day as it was sunny and the Gorge was closed to traffic. Lead 2nd and 3rd pitch. After few meters at the beginning of the second pitch I mistakenly tried to go up the overhang, until I realized the rout goes up left. Climbing with few Kg in the bag training for the Alps, but on the ledge next to the balcony I had problems balancing and standing up. Ditched the bag with Nathan, the move was way easier and probably the most satisfactory of the whole route.

with UBES, Nathan
shoulders 30/May/16 AltLd O/S

Pitch 3. Fantastic

richsmithinbristol 30/May/16 AltLd rpt
Mlongman 15/May/16 AltLd rpt
with Matt
ms26g10 15/May/16 AltLd

lead first and final pitches, took a second attempt on the corner

with Matt
Trevers 14/May/16 2nd

Technical, polished and exposed. The 4a move on the second pitch isn't trivial either. Great setting though

with BStar
riccynino 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Anya Breen
BStar 14/May/16 Lead O/S

Swore a lot on P1... Bridging on two polished footholds above rubbish gear does that to me. Quite an exposure on P3! Overall a great route though, felt like a celebrity at the top :)

with Trevers
Dino Dave 06/May/16 Lead rpt
with Tash
Bob Peters 05/May/16 Lead

Lead all of it after work. Topped out to the lights coming on on the bridge and an incredible sunset. Good climb but perhaps not 3*'s for the climbing. Start of P3 is brilliant, polish doesn't detract.

with Joe
danieleaston 04/May/16 AltLd rpt

Really enjoyed this time round, led 1&3. Not as scary as I remembered.

with Neil
Bristol_Quornstar 03/May/16 Lead rpt

Led whole thing with uni mates. Always good fun.

with Sam de Belder, Adam Buckley
David Clover ?/May/16 Lead O/S
greedo 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

Feels tough for vs with polish and spaced gear.

with Jason porter
Moritz L 26/Apr/16 AltLd O/S


Dan0Me 26/Apr/16 -
PeteMc 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Lumbering Oaf 24/Apr/16 Lead O/S

Great route. Very public climbing, what with the cave balcony and the telescope belay. Led P1,2,3.

Hidden 24/Apr/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
eoinb 23/Apr/16 AltLd

Led p3.

Ashley King 20/Apr/16 Lead

A really fun long route, first pitch is really scary at points with a few hard moves, second pitch was very easy. Third pitch is by far the most fun with a really cool bold move to start and a hard move off from there, get easier after that and a simple finish. definitely worth doing.

Steve Woollard 19/Apr/16 AltLd
with Cameron
Bristol_Quornstar 17/Apr/16 AltLd rpt

Led P1 & 3

with Dan Akam
riff156 03/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Jo Smith
alexcaister 03/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Robert Skilton, Chris Sansum
Chris Sansum 03/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Alex Caister, Robert Skilton
Cyborg 03/Apr/16 2nd dog
with Alex, Chris
Hidden ?/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Gibbo 21/Mar/16 AltLd
with James Thompson
PEccleston 16/Mar/16 AltLd

lead pitches 1 & 3. Very glad to have finished this after having had a bit of mare on it last time. Ended up being caught out without head torches in the dark before the 3rd. Got up it all pretty smoothly this time. Great climb.

Hidden 16/Mar/16 AltLd
Hidden 15/Mar/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 15/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
jon_gill1 11/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Me P1 & P3. loved pitch 3

with nick loc
Hidden 11/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/16 AltLd
s.thursz ?/Mar/16 Lead
with johnny steller
Lil_Pete 27/Feb/16 Solo rpt

Went to take a pause on the ledge at the beginning of the third pitch but realised I was upsetting a lot of nesting Jackdaw there so moved on pretty quickly, worth an eye out if you're planning to belay there.

WillAndrew 25/Feb/16 AltLd rpt

Night climb!

with Ali
ali.scott 25/Feb/16 AltLd rpt

After work with headtorches; good fun. :)

Mike Roger ??/2016 -
mossrug 29/Dec/15 Lead O/S
with Rob
SJPowderham1 04/Dec/15 Lead O/S
elfka 25/Nov/15 AltLd O/S

Led 1st and 3rd pitch. While belaying Camille from the first stance someone jumped off the bridge...lots of police cars, ambulances and fire engines directly below us for the rest of the climb.

with Camille King
67hours 15/Nov/15 Lead O/S
with Jess
Hidden 02/Nov/15 Lead O/S
EC 01/Nov/15 2nd
with Thom
Hidden 01/Nov/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead
Hidden 25/Oct/15 2nd
91dave 25/Oct/15 2nd RP
Hidden 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Lil_Pete 19/Oct/15 Solo rpt

Much more fun in the day appearing around the arête and making stranger jump out his skin as he looked out from the balcony!

Lil_Pete 14/Oct/15 Solo rpt

Post work dusky solo, 2 1/2 years since first climbing as a blasé second not really paying any attention to the route! The MOVE up on to pedestal was a lot more committing and airy than I remembered.

FlavioL1989 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/15 AltLd
ali.scott 09/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

chasing the setting sun up the wall; lovely. :-)

with Tom N
Aaron Lines 07/Sep/15 2nd

This is a very good route at the grade. Not what you would expect from an Avon Gorge VS

with Dan
ChrisWills 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 and 3 - great climbing in a fantastic setting

with Pierce
Hidden ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
foobar123 ?/Sep/15 2nd
Rob Moorcroft 28/Aug/15 2nd
with Richard Ive
Hidden 26/Aug/15 2nd
RichyBOYY 20/Aug/15 Lead O/S
AshBarnes 20/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch. Piece o' cake.

with Ric
WillAndrew 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
with Matt G
Hidden 11/Aug/15 2nd O/S
stevethomas 11/Aug/15 Lead
with Heather
Hidden 11/Aug/15 AltLd
seabrook 09/Aug/15 Lead dnf

Bailed when I broke my back, will come back to finish it

Hidden 09/Aug/15 2nd O/S
m_andersson 08/Aug/15 AltLd rpt

Ben did p1 and p2 just as the sun was setting. Then we watched the ballon fiesta fireworks from belay 2 and then I led p3 with a headtorch. Great fun and an amazing view of the bridge lighting up at night

DoMakeSayThink 08/Aug/15 AltLd
Melonfly ?/Aug/15 -
with Meg
9fingerjon 18/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Laura
m_andersson 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

I led p1 and p2 and then Ben mastered p3. Great views with the suspension bridge.

DoMakeSayThink 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Martin led P1+2, I led P3. Cracking climbing, great weather, great views.

Hidden 10/Jul/15 AltLd
Hidden 03/Jul/15 Lead
my 03/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2 only

with Mike H
Hidden 03/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
TimKnight 27/Jun/15 AltLd rpt

Led P1 & P3

with Dave Marshall
Jan.Hrb 20/Jun/15 AltLd
Alessandro Tentori 20/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Jan Hrbacek
KatOstrich 18/Jun/15 AltLd

Forgot how tricky the move around the corner on P3 is. Made it after a few goes.

with Matt
jammy4536 09/Jun/15 Solo rpt
David Maddison 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S

There were some birds (possibly ravens) nesting on a small ledge near the second belay ledge. They were however quite far back from the anchor position.

Hidden 03/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Win-yei 31/May/15 2nd
with Rob
chrisallan 31/May/15 Lead O/S
Rob Morgan 31/May/15 Lead

Lead all three pitches. Was a bit nervous of this one but glad it's done! The main crux was tricky but not too bad. Dropped belay device at top of 2nd pitch. Despite nearly succeeding in fishing it back up with the nut key I managed to drop it again. Luckily landed on another ledge so belayed Win up with an Italian hitch and she picked it up on the way.

with Win-yei
AndrewCollins 30/May/15 2nd O/S
FernandoHidalgo 30/May/15 Lead O/S

Amazing view, a lot of public. I freaked out a couple of times going the wrong way.

Hidden 21/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 17/May/15 Lead
AshBarnes 13/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch. 3rd pitch had a scary start!!

JoeE 13/May/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P1&3. Classic avon polish and runouts but some really nice moves on pitch 3 with some nice exposure

with Ashley Barnes
JonoDHawkins 13/May/15 AltLd β

Hardest grade yet in the gorge, didn't include the HVS move on the middle pitch.

sheelba 12/May/15 AltLd

Led 2 and 3, had a horrible moment on the second pitch when a hold came off in my hand!

with Cara, Naomi
Hidden 01/May/15 AltLd
Georgina Brooke ?/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Chris Allan
Legs 30/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Lead all three pitches. Found the 'crux' move easy at 4c, but maybe that's because I am lanky! Last pitch was really good fun with great views as you climbed. In a lovely location. Finished just as the sun was setting and even got our photograph taken! Really been wanting to do this for ages and it did not disappoint.

gingerbex 30/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Fab climb. Best of year so far

jammy4536 29/Apr/15 AltLd rpt
Pete Scott 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S
robburgundy 25/Apr/15 2nd
with Pete
purpledistorsion 24/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/15 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 20/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with Duncan Brown
Hidden 17/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Doug miller 17/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

P1 +P2

miriamclaire 15/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

I led the second pitch, Hutch the first and Dave the third

with hutchay
hutchay 15/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch, Mim did the 2nd and Dave did the 3rd in the dark

Matt Robinson 21/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Great move on P3 to start!!

with Phil Brown
Paul_southgate68 19/Mar/15 -

Took the roof on pitch 2 direct but it's all about the last pitch, maybe 3 star if pitch 2 was a bit cleaner.

with Tom R
Dino Dave 18/Mar/15 AltLd rpt
with Dan Akam
James 1 15/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
jammy4536 15/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Great climb up some surprisingly good rock. Grippy, sharp holds definitely contribute, and the sense of audience gives a good additional spice. Extremely enjoyable route and great exposure on the final pitch

Hidden 07/Mar/15 2nd O/S
JamesRich 07/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Lewis
Hidden ??/2015 -
Robertspd2 ?/Dec/14 2nd
Hidden 28/Nov/14 2nd
Hidden 28/Nov/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 30/Oct/14 AltLd
badgerjockey 19/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Kuang
steve_gibbs 05/Oct/14 Lead rpt
with Verity
Graham Westbrook 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
hutchay 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Fliss
Angrypenguin 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Cat
catty_9 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing all the way, just about finished before the sun went down

Hidden 17/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
mikedevcole 05/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 & 3 with Harvey.

arandall 04/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Brian, Joe Coxson
JoeCoxson 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Lead all 3 pitches. Awesome position on the crag. The first pitch was pretty slow and technical, middle pitch was easy cruising, and the third pitch was beautifully exposed and didn't want to stop. Great route.

georgeevans88 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Rory
mattkemp70 ?/Sep/14 AltLd
with Westy
laurashaw 28/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Zolly Whitaker 28/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Laura Shaw, Laurence Falconer
laurence_falconer 28/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Great route, I led the middle pitch, but by the 5a direct variation which was very good climbing.

Mlongman 09/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Lead 1 and 3 pitch including the crux pitch.

with Pete Davis
Steve Bartle 04/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Alex Winter 04/Aug/14 Solo O/S

Finished up this to get back to Clifton. Some really nice positions high up. Only a couple of sections of proper climbing though -- otherwise pretty disjointed.

Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 29/Jul/14 Lead O/S
corinrathbone 29/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Łukasz Harazin
James_L88 26/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Great route. I led P1+3, Kat led P2.

with Kat Day
professorcobra 24/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/14 2nd O/S
felixizzy 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt

Lead it and then climbed the second two pitches on top rope because dan left his bag at the top of p1. Quite an intersting experience.

with Dan
PaulWatson 18/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Nice climb, but don't see it as the claimed classic. Glad to get to following 4C in first day back though

with DaveTalbot
danmullett 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
saz_b 09/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
danieleaston 09/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 & 3

with Saz
Melonfly 08/Jul/14 AltLd dog

Slipped foot on first pitch following leader.

with Caleb
Kemics 08/Jul/14 AltLd rpt

pitches 1 and 3. Took a completely different line than last time. Much harder going left..and scary!

with Mel
Dino Dave 06/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
with Dad
Dave Mahon 05/Jul/14 AltLd
matt.jj 05/Jul/14 AltLd
Dave Thompson 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
joelewisoutdoor 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
jackc 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
carl_123 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Probably not 3 star. Gears a bit spaced. Nice having a audience.

Hidden 05/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/14 AltLd
AngelaC 03/Jun/14 AltLd
with Jeremy
corinrathbone 02/Jun/14 2nd O/S
matt_claydon 02/Jun/14 Lead rpt
ben.richards 18/May/14 AltLd β
with Alex Burt
Merlin 18/May/14 AltLd O/S

P2. Nice afternoon in the sun with the tourist audience. Some sketchy moves on sloping polish, accompanied with sparse gear. Not sure it's worth 3 stars, I think it's suffered from location-star-inflation.

with Dave Tait
Jeff Mashburn 04/May/14 2nd β
with Dave Mahon
Dave Mahon 04/May/14 Lead O/S

Not too polished, nice climb. Did the HVS variation through the overhangs on P2 - no surprises.

with Jeff Mashburn
KatOstrich 04/May/14 AltLd

Lead p1 and p3, such a nice route, not huge amount of gear

with Tash
Hidden ?/May/14 AltLd O/S
felixizzy 20/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

P 1&3. Cool climbing.

Hidden 17/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Cheese Monkey 16/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Raced the sun up the crag

with Vienna
Hidden 15/Apr/14 AltLd
deano 10/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Matthew Martin Wsm 08/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

enjoyable steady climb, lead easy third pitch, placing just 1 hex, finally climbed after looking up wanting to climb it for ages!

with martin paley
Steve Woollard 08/Apr/14 AltLd
with Ian Law
Deary65 08/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Great climbing. Led P1 & P3. One or two committing moves but all worth it!

with Matt
Rebs 04/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 3

bencaley 04/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Rebs
est1985 23/Mar/14 2nd
with Chris Malin
Hidden 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hamish777 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Dan lead P1 and P3, I did P2. Some tricky moves at the start of P3.

with Dan Stickland, Andrea
andrea83 15/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Didn't think this was worth the hype, 1-2 stars max,

with Dan from Bristol, Hamish
andy dunn 09/Mar/14 AltLd
with J
katherinesydney 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt

my body has forgotten how to climb, it seems, but the sunshine: glorious.

Jim Brooke 09/Mar/14 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 04/Mar/14 2nd rpt
George Frisby 04/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
erkdaly12 ??/2014 2nd
with corin
mike mo ??/2014 -
Jonnie Watkins ??/2014 -
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Hidden 13/Nov/13 AltLd rpt
kenneM 13/Nov/13 AltLd

I lead pitch 1 & 3 - mike did the middle

with Mike Dudley
Matt_L_Robinson 20/Oct/13 AltLd
Hidden 20/Oct/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/13 Lead
andy dunn 05/Sep/13 AltLd rpt
with J
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
ali macphee 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd
sjbrook 20/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1, Jamie lead P2 (HVS variation) and P3

with Jamie
Slick 01/Aug/13 AltLd

Led P2 with HVS variation

with Kevin Vans-Colina
George Frisby 14/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Chris
stafford101 14/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Variation to the right on P1 - still can't hack the direct! Excellent evening for the route

Hidden 09/Jul/13 Lead
minexplorer 04/Jul/13 AltLd

ran first 2 pitches together.bold feeling start due to no protection.ben led last part.the 'testing move' very satisfying when finaly sussed out.

with cheese monkey
Cheese Monkey 04/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with Rad
matt_claydon 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Lead all three pitches, strung 2 and 3 together which seemed better than having to belay round the corner and 2 is so quick I wasn't ready to stop. Rope drag wasn't too bad, even though used most of the length of 60m ropes. Some great positions, and a couple of bold (for me!) moves above gear. No audience in cave as climbed Sunday evening, but the moral support would be useful for the few moves at the start of P3.

Laura Parker 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

What a climb! Lead all pitches. Yes it is a bit polished but the exposure is awesome, being watched from the gallery is kind of cool and stepping out from belay ledge on P3 is amazing. Papabear did a great job of seconding. Husband and wife romance!

Alex Parker 25/Jun/13 2nd

my first VS multipitch! Took a tumble seconding at the crux of P3. Glad no one was watching from the gallery as i did an almighty poo in my pants! Found the polish awful too.

abtibbs 12/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

I only lead the middle pitch (the easy one)

with Jack Verber
Anthony Dixon 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Dr Toph 05/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Went off route on P1, which added spice. Crux at start of P3 provided exposure and polish in equal measure!

georgeevans88 26/May/13 AltLd O/S
with kirsten
kirsten 26/May/13 AltLd

pitch 1 and 3. Took a bit of manning up for the crux of p3 with the offputting crowd on the bridge, although p1 was harder overall. hot, hot, hot, just a touch of sunburn!

with george
pheotleyr 25/May/13 Lead rpt

Tried the overhang variant on pitch 2 again, failed again. Guess I'm too scared to hit the ledge...

with Mike
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd
Stanners 23/May/13 Lead rpt

a little sun, a little rain, a little hail, a little wind - made for an adventurous afternoon out

with Alex Rhodes
Bristol_Quornstar 23/May/13 2nd O/S

Ace afternoon out - sunny spells with rain and even hail showers on the 3rd pitch made it all the more interesting!

steve_gibbs 22/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mustafa
Hidden 22/May/13 2nd O/S
crispycodd 21/May/13 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3 were my leads, Stephen led direct P2.

simonf 21/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Simon, Mike
localboy 21/May/13 AltLd O/S

Very polish in places. Not much to the second pitch.

Hidden 20/May/13 Lead rpt
Quirina 20/May/13 2nd rpt

Felt more difficult than it should have been. Or am I just getting old?

Hidden 19/May/13 Lead O/S
perrys 18/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Rob Goodman, Luke Abbott
Hidden 08/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
Mr-Cowdrey 06/May/13 AltLd O/S
with chris ridgers
Robin Woodward ?/May/13 Lead
Alex the Alex ?/May/13 AltLd O/S
djking1983 29/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
joedoherty 29/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Let 1st and 2nd pitch

Hidden 29/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Quarryboy 28/Apr/13 Lead rpt

Day started off seeming like a bit of a catastrophe, couldn't find the right rope and was in doubt about whether the two we had were long enough, it turned out were were ok in the end though. The pitches all went well although the last one got me a bit worried as both Dave and Mark had a bit of a problem with it, eventually they both got up and although a bit scared were ok.

with Mark Pellowe, David Bradbrook
Steve Lenartowicz 22/Apr/13 Lead
with Clare
Duncan Turner 27/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Interesting in the snow!!!

riff156 02/Mar/13 Lead rpt
with Hannahc
Hidden 27/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
laurence_falconer 27/Feb/13 AltLd

Lead second pitch. Climbed at night, good adventure!

with Will Attridge, Harry Kingston
Chris Sansum 23/Feb/13 Lead rpt

Top end of the grade. Did the direct version up the overhang on pitch 2.

with Alex Bryant
Alex Bryant 23/Feb/13 2nd β
laurence_falconer 15/Feb/13 AltLd O/S

First and second pitch are excelent climbing. Lead the second pitch which doesnt have a tech grade. Really good fun climbing with satisfying moves!

Harry Kingston ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S

nice climb in great location, went back and climbed in the dark couple of days later. nice little adventure.

with Naomi Malkin
riff156 05/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Jo Smith
jcw ??/2013 -
Bobling 02/Dec/12 AltLd

Lead the first pitch this time, Joe got two and three. First time I have ever topped out to applause! Still a great climb, if only pitch two had a bit more ooomph...

with Joe
bonoid 02/Dec/12 AltLd β
with Bobling
sheelba 18/Nov/12 2nd
georgeevans88 04/Nov/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 20/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
steve-grigg 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S

Did 1st and 3rd. Great views and brilliant ledges. Climbing was on and off, But the start of the 3rd pitch was fantastic

Webster 07/Oct/12 AltLd

lead pitch 2, couldnt do the start of pitch one in my slightly hung over, slightly knackered state so partner lead one and three. gets 3 stars for the position and belay ledges, climbing is rather hot and cold, but when its hot its very good.

patrickc 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S

1st pitch

with Sue
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
maresia 29/Sep/12 2nd rpt

Forgot my shoes so had to do in trainers rather than something more taxing

Becky H 20/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 and 3

with Harry Bloxham
HarryB 19/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
with Becky
squicky 16/Sep/12 AltLd rpt

A bit harder than I remember, but then I did have to get up the start of Costa Brava (E4) after my partner belayed at the tree under the cave.

with George
Slick 13/Sep/12 AltLd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
budchawla 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Nice route - exposed & fun. Slightly polished at the start. Laurence led P1, I combined P2 & P3. Ran out of the 50m rope at the top (as anticipated) - so I used the 60m rope to get the belay around a tree at the fence. Strange to top out amongst all the tourists and walk back through town! Tips: Recommend combining P1 & P2 for a nicer start to P3, the step around the arete would probably feel friendlier if your belayer wasn't miles away out of sight. 60m ropes recommended if combining pitches. Also - avoid bringing anything but climbing gear to the route. Scrambling back up & down to grab packs is a major pain. Very sunny, bring water.

LJKing 08/Sep/12 AltLd
with Bud Chawla
Pete Rigby 07/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 07/Sep/12 AltLd rpt
saz_b 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Went back for this after being rained away with steph earlier in the year. Led p1+3. P1 polished but only a couple of moves. P2 was short lived and p3 had a hard move onto the ledge then took some route finding to get to the top. Finished in darkness :-) lots of drag on p3. Beautiful views.

with Ben Wetherill
Nick Russell 05/Sep/12 Lead rpt

This was the third time I'd climbed this route (not counting the time we got rained off) and I'm sure I've done it differently each time

with Emily
Hidden ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 30/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

O/S on the "HVS" pitch...which is kinda fun and felt easy for HVS. Done with Rocker's Revenge.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 30/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Mlongman 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Pete Davis
Jon Pilling 12/Aug/12 Lead O/S

MP Knee down on a crux move but 1st VS of the yr!

with Dan Wallis
markfromstoke 26/Jul/12 AltLd
with Ian
ian d f 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch direct over overhangs, bit tricky. Prob not really OS for me, I think I climbed it as a wee lad.

with Mark
pheotleyr 22/Jul/12 AltLd rpt

led pitch 2 and 3, tried to do the overhang directly on pitch 2, decided to go round it after two failed attempts, seemed quite hard for 5a

with Dan
alastairbegley 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Joemanglerocks 01/Jul/12 AltLd

Led P1 & P3

TimKnight 01/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2

morpcat 24/Jun/12 2nd
Hidden 17/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Si Carter 01/Jun/12 AltLd

Still a great route, with a surprisingly tricky start.

with Colin Tiley
DOVEY 27/May/12 -


with Jake.P+ Billie
Ragingpossum 25/May/12 AltLd rpt

I led the first and final pitch with rob doing the second. The heat in the gorge made it slightly more entertaining.

with R_W_M
TDembrey 19/May/12 AltLd rpt

Lead Pitches 2 and 3.

with Peter
pheotleyr 19/May/12 AltLd O/S

led 1st pitch, very nice route with good protection. felt quite easy

with Todd
Nick Russell 14/May/12 2nd dnf

Jason led P1 in beautiful weather. Wind got up, cloud blew over and we bailed of some fixed tat to the left in heavy rain/hail.

with Jason
Kylie 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Lovely route, I lead the middle pitch which was pretty straightforward, some very nice positions.

tobydunford 13/May/12 Lead O/S
with Sarah Wysling
mullermn 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Me P1&3, Kylie P2. Did 5a move on P2 on second. Nice route, enjoyed it more than last time. Still very scrappy climbing in the second pitch and top half of the 3rd, position and exposure is nice though.

mikeydee135 01/May/12 2nd O/S
with Evan Hall, Mai Wong
evhall 01/May/12 Lead rpt
with Mike D
Hidden 18/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Dean177 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
mallardhealhook 13/Apr/12 2nd β
Dino Dave 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Dad
ben.richards 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

P1 me, P2 Alex, P3 me. Got papped by someone taking photos for the new CC guidebook - had to wait mid-rockover on P1 whilst he got the shot!! Big move onto the hand ledge on P3 but well protected and graced with good holds.

flyinfrenchy 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
CreepingExcellence. 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
Stanners 29/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Great start to our final free day before GCSE revision kicks off. Great effort by Andy.

with Andy G
Quirina 24/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Mistee 19/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Phil led P1 and P3 - P1 has a polished start and shook my nerve a little. P2 has a tricky opening move(possibly should have moved left a bit more), a messy middle and massive rope drag at the top. P3 feels great - proper climbing and the views all the way are fantastic - got my picture taken by some guys on the bridge!

with Phil
Hidden 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S
lukewilliams 16/Mar/12 AltLd

climb with dave i took first and third pitch

Glyn 12/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Amy
HarryB 11/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Katherine Ross 11/Mar/12 2nd rpt

Had a go at the HVS line on P2 but not feeling strong enough atm. Had a good audience for most of it, including about 6 people in the cave! Lovely sunshine too :)

zcsharp 11/Mar/12 2nd
Kemics 10/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

pitches 1 & 3. Was surprised at how hard moving direct off the belay was from pitch 2, possibly off line. Pitch 3 was utterly spectacular, great compact dark limestone, good gear, stunning views of the gorge. Legit 3 stars.

katherinesydney 10/Mar/12 AltLd rpt

Led p2. Opted for slabby runout rather that overhang. Made outrageous rope drag. Calebs pitches were ace.

Kevster 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Top pitch is the draw card.

lukerathmell 13/Feb/12 AltLd dnf
with Ali Macphee
ali macphee 13/Feb/12 Lead dnf
ambrooker 12/Feb/12 2nd O/S
with Tom
chiverstom 12/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Alice
pffft 01/Feb/12 Lead O/S

Forecast was for 0 degree temperatures, but the sun was out with no wind so felt lovely and warm. Lovely route, tricky moves!

with Jojo Mills
stafford101 22/Jan/12 Lead β

Great climb!

Ragingpossum 22/Jan/12 2nd

A few incidents to make the climb certainly more entertaining.

with Chris Stafford
PAJames ??/2012 -
DanMc ??/2012 AltLd O/S
saintlade ??/2012 -
Stanners 17/Dec/11 AltLd rpt

Yet again great route. First time I've led top pitch. Not as hard as first time I tried it. Rain shower at top of first pitch made us debate on how we would escape. But deciding to sit it out paid off and managed to get to the top in the end. Happy days.

with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
Quarryboy 17/Dec/11 AltLd rpt

The weather decided to give us a hard time!

JamesRich 17/Dec/11 2nd O/S

A great route despite the weather. I'll definitely be back to Lead it.

jezb1 02/Dec/11 AltLd

Ld P3, weird climbing with so many random people around. Nice start to P3 and good position but climbing itself pretty forgetable

pete1993 06/Nov/11 AltLd
Ragingpossum 27/Oct/11 2nd

Final pitch only

davenev 23/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

led the 5a overhang - nice climb but soooo many people around

with mick
cbeard 19/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Rob's first outdoor climbing! Left late afternoon and finished up on the top in the dark. Rode in on a Tandem!

with Rob Sievwright, Katherine Ross
Katherine Ross 19/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Did P3 in the dark - was good fun! Great views of the bridge all the way up, and it's a better climb than Piton Route. Had to go back this morning to rescue gear that Rob had just unclipped.

with Rob, Charlie Beard
jon_ridley 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Led all with P1/2 as one pitch. Did the direct overhung line.

Hidden 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
squicky 11/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Did the spicy 5a alternative on the second pitch and had to pop back down to the belay point because it was too hard to begin with.

Nick Russell 11/Sep/11 Lead rpt

Spiced up a bit by a few rain showers...

Stanners 11/Sep/11 AltLd rpt

Led P2 with 5a variation. A bit too much veg but the initial overhang is good. Seconding P3 as rain and wind picked up was exciting.

with Iggy
Nick Russell 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
arandall ?/Sep/11 Lead rpt
with Hebe Knowles
Tom Seccombe 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with duncan
mary 20/Aug/11 2nd
with Dale Gautrey
Chris Sansum 20/Aug/11 Lead rpt

James' first outdoor climb! Climbed to get a quick route in in the afternoon after getting rained off at Wintour's Leap then retreating to the indoor wall in Bristol. Climbing with no guidebook was fun!

with James Ogilvie
Different Steve 12/Aug/11 AltLd rpt
with Emma Hawkins, Nick
ashley_sandeman 01/Aug/11 AltLd β

2nd April 11 - Excellent climbing with plenty of on-lookers to cheer you on. The slippery start gives way to some nice open climbing and great views. Lead pitch 2 and 3. It helps if you have a bit of height on the second pitch start, and it's plain sailing in the final pitch with some great exposure, leaving your second plenty of time to grandstand for the audience on the avon suspension bridge to the point where they call him the "hero of the climb", despite the fact you lead the bloody thing (still bitter about that)! 1 Aug 11 Climbed again with "The Norfolk Machine", this time taking the first pitch on lead and seconding P1&2. Two hours enjoyable climbing. The opening pitch starts with a slippery outing and thin gear, but opens up after the first few metres to reveal good gear options. If there's a peg at the top of P1 I didn't find it but there's an excellent crack just waiting to be loaded with gear for protection in any case.

with Richard Miles, kingrollo
Chris Sansum 24/Jul/11 AltLd rpt

Chris P1, Phil P2 & 3

with Phil Mitchell
Hidden 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 23/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with gary burgess
roscoe 22/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Now have finally climbed every pitch on Giant's Cave Buttress. The final pitch was sensational. The first pitch is serious for anyone breaking into the VS grade being both polished and lacking in gear on the initial moves. A must do for any prospective 'Avonite' VS leader. Don't forget to wave to the crowd on the balcony!

Poco Loco 19/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

P1. Great climb because of the situation. First pitch made me concentrate. Second pitch a bit of a scramble - made up for by the superb finish!

with Robert
Bobling 19/Jul/11 AltLd

Another classic that was worth the wait, only let down by some loose rock at the top of pitch one. Final pitch was sheer joy and for once I was leading! Word to the wise, bring shoes - it's a long way down to the Main Area car park in bare feet.

with James P
lewiz 16/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Spectacular situation, generally average climbing made worthwhile by two interesting moves (start of third pitch in particular). Climbed after a huge downpour - very dry, no problems.

mishtu 16/Jul/11 2nd
with lewiz
Lasma 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

It was hard to trust Avon Gorge limestone as it seemed to be quite brittle! Certainly a "spicy" 4c with some bouldery moves on rather poorly protected sections made me feel bold!

with sophiecb
sophiecb 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Funky, urban climbing. I led pitch two and Lasma cooly led pitches one and three. We both found the top pitch pretty spicy for 4c.. maybe we're not used to limestone and climbing routes which aren't cracks! Awesome belays and situations. Massive exposure going into final pitch and a good audience from the bridge and cave!

with Lasma
karenhh 05/Jul/11 AltLd
maresia 04/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Tim Sanders
Tom Brierley Gore 04/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

You might get an audience from the suspension bridge :P

andy dunn 01/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
with Big Ben, Alan
stafford101 11/Jun/11 2nd O/S

Top pitch only

bonelessivar 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Andy pitch one, me two and three.

with Andy
lukehodson 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches

Carol Goodall 28/May/11 AltLd
jonnie3430 28/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Carol
Hidden 24/May/11 AltLd
Slick 24/May/11 AltLd
HarryB 11/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Al
Slick 11/May/11 AltLd
with Kevin Vans-Colina
Hidden 06/May/11 Lead rpt
stvredmond 30/Apr/11 AltLd

Led P1 and P3. third pitch was very exposed. tried to look cool in front of the people in the cave but didnt work to well, leg wouldnt stop shaking :D

Hidden 26/Apr/11 AltLd
Jeavsy 25/Apr/11 AltLd

Easter Monday - beautiful weather. Early-ish start but beaten to the climb by another pair! Very tricky crux move at the start of pitch 3. Matt led pitches 1&3, I led pitch 2.

with Matt Swannell
arandall 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Pitch's 1 and 3.

with Isaac Whitcombe
Murdie 22/Apr/11 2nd
with Nick, Rob
zombie_pat 21/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Foot popped off polished holds on the start of the 1st pitch

mark20 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
LisaA 04/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Fresher
Sianny 02/Apr/11 2nd dog

awesome climb!

with Al
kingrollo 02/Apr/11 AltLd

first pitch lead only, Ash took 2nd and last.

Greg Pittam 20/Mar/11 AltLd β
with Sophie Keltie
aipattison 09/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Classic gorge outing: cold, polished, dark by the end. Fun climbing, dissapointingly no tourists in the cave, although did surprise a photographer at the top.

with UBMC
kelliroberts3 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 26/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 17/Feb/11 AltLd dnf

Got to Pitch 3, dark, decided P3 looked a bit tricky so traversed around in a 4 pitch escape up a grassy gully to the right of the route.

Hidden 23/Jan/11 Lead O/S
MHutch ??/2011 -
Jonnie Watkins ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
31770 ??/2011 -
mikeyg 01/Nov/10 AltLd O/S

P1 and P3 really nice route. Didn't envy Twigs on P2 as it was a garden

victim of mathematics 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Really nice climbing in a great setting.

Hidden 24/Oct/10 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 24/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Huntlyfiddler 26/Sep/10 2nd
bpmclimb 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Clare
Quarryboy 11/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Some guy killed himself by jumping off the suspension bridge not something I will forget quickly the climb was good though

Stanners 11/Sep/10 2nd O/S

some bits were very exposed, exciting climb! guy commited suicide as I finished 3rd pitch from suspension bridge...nice... R.I.P

Clay C 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Led 3rd pitch and we did 5a variation on 2nd pitch

with Todd
TDembrey 03/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st and 2nd pitch with 5a variation.

with Clay
Quirina 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Aug/10 AltLd
Pete Rigby ?/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
paulnc 24/Jul/10 2nd
bsavage 10/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

did 1st and 3rd pitch

with Richard Craddock
dan ely 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with jesse
andy dunn 13/Jun/10 Lead O/S

some good climbing on the 1st pitch, 2nd was rather loose, though easy at the same time, P3 was all over after the first few moves, though the outstanding position made up for it

with Alan
mullermn 22/May/10 AltLd dog

Lead p3, monkey did 1&2 with 5a variation. Annoyingly fell off due to a sudden rope snag while climbing the overhang, so have to claim it as dogged. Move round the arête on p3 very nice, rest of the pitch so-so. Unable to retrieve a nut low down on p1.

with Monkey
Monk 22/May/10 AltLd O/S

A great climb. Led P1 and P2 (5a variation - not HVS though as it is straight off a massive ledge). Lovely rock, lovely moves and sufficient protection.

Steve Woollard 03/May/10 AltLd
Pete.ent 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
with 7om
7om 01/May/10 AltLd O/S
Will Homoky 16/Apr/10 Lead rpt

Fantastic repeat (probably my 8th ascent) but first in ~9 years. Can never grow tied of P3 and that sunset by the bridge. P1 always a rude awakening from complacency.

with Tom Whitton
Jessie Rushbrooke ?/Mar/10 2nd
with GF
Hidden ?/Mar/10 AltLd
T ny ??/2010 -
wildrover220 31/Oct/09 AltLd β

Had bailed before top pitch previously with Niall

Chris Sansum 18/Oct/09 Lead rpt
tommoulds 10/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Schramm
mark schramm 10/Oct/09 Lead

Finished in the dark - great fun

with tom m
RagingPuffin 13/Sep/09 Lead rpt
lizzie789 13/Sep/09 2nd O/S

Fairly easy. One slightly difficult rock over on exposed face on last pitch (my obs platform).

maresia 22/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

Led the first and last pitches. Wonderful to lead the top pitch. The first felt a bit desperate straight off at VS

with Billy
Shonkhor 22/Aug/09 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd (easy) pitch - don't think I'm quite up to the other 2 yet - must come back in 6 months as a top climb.

with Ben
ruaidh 01/Aug/09 Lead O/S

The polish, the POLISH. Virtually unprotectable move eight feet above sloping ledge right at the start on slippery rock. Good way of clearing a hangover. Can probably chain P1 and P2 with a 60m, latter is just a scramble.

with Rory, Ben, Ben
Shona H 07/Jul/09 2nd
with Jon wilson, Martyn Eales
James Moyle 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S

All pitches. Finished in the dark. favourite route this year. Agree with climber below: it is 2.5 stars! One or two moves are high end 4c but lots of the route is 4a or below. Gear is quite spaced. No quibles with VS.

with D. Murphy
Mr. K 27/Jun/09 2nd
Hidden 03/Jun/09 AltLd rpt
Feeling bold 03/Jun/09 2nd rpt

Rpt. P1 and P3 seemed tricky tonight. Perhaps they were the warmup pitches as P3, the usual crux, just much easier than 3 years ago. For added interest, 3 fire engines and various police cars turned up when we were on P3 belay. See photos.

with Neil, Cheddar John
Greg Pittam ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Rachel Lenane
Hidden 25/May/09 Lead O/S
jh5638 24/May/09 Lead O/S

Incl. 5A overhang

with Peter Hill
evhall 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Easy...except very first move which is horrible - had to go round edge

with J
Different Steve 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Great moves & position on the crux wall but the rest of the route a little broken. Found 1st pitch hardest - perhaps something fallen off?

with Joe
joehanks61 13/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Wrighty87 07/Apr/09 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3. Very intersting start to 3rd pitch with the mantal. One to really get the heart going when starting out.

with Chris Mountford
Hidden 26/Mar/09 Lead O/S
scorpia97 26/Mar/09 2nd O/S

abbed in and did the final pitch, nice climb.

with Caspian
Hidden 22/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Kirill 22/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

led first and third pitches.

with Gareth, Graham Dolman
Hidden 15/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Jesse Dufton 07/Mar/09 Lead
mol 07/Mar/09 2nd
with Jesse
jon thompson27 ?/Mar/09 AltLd
with Alex Thompson
SC 25/Jan/09 2nd rpt

Excellent climb. Nice exposure leaving second belay.

Hidden ??/2009 AltLd dnf
Quirina ??/2009 2nd O/S
with Daryl Waycott
jominator ??/2009 Lead O/S

wicked fun, climbed it all in the rain and finished in the dark.

with wu
jominator ??/2009 -
Tom Heslam ??/2009 Lead O/S

Awesome last pitch.

with Rosea
Hidden 28/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
Dr Caterpillar 16/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

led p2 and 3

with Howard
Hidden 02/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/08 AltLd O/S
MagnusL ?/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Andy
Chris Sansum 27/Jul/08 Lead β
with Gary Lewin
Greg Pittam ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Kate Keltie
Hidden 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S
catemuir ?/Jun/08 2nd
with Calum Smith
jon thompson27 ?/Jun/08 Lead dog

Pitch 3 blind corner to swing onto blank face and traverse – zero gear and teeter left then climb direct up … no gear still…again no gear having lead out around toward a viewing platform (yellow railings in picture) and up the ivy. I simply couldn’t find A) any gear B) the route C) reserve energy on the direct line up. Anyhow took my longest hardest lead fall around 10-12 metres lob and fell through a silver berch tree ripped out two small branches, ripped my gear loop which had 4 hexes, 4 quick draws & a sling. Most dangling in the tree out of reach. Retrieved later that week Feet pointed outward so stubbed my toes, black nails, puss & blood. Realized I couldn’t stand on my feet any longer, abd off. Anyway limping at the bottom we laughed it all off & realized I couldn’t compress the clutch (left toe worst off) struggled to get myself home (very late & in trouble with my wife & was expected to walk the dog on one foot.

with Roger Wickham
dzlhodgson 31/May/08 AltLd O/S

Lead the 1st and 3rd pitch. Really like the final pitch nice exposure and great view of the avon gorge and suspension bridge.

with Alan Sage
Hidden 08/May/08 AltLd rpt
KRB 11/Mar/08 Solo rpt

Phenominally windy day

Hidden 06/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
rh5980 10/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

lead 1st and 3rd pitch

Eddie Hung 10/Dec/07 AltLd O/S

Led middle pitch, did 5a overhang variation

with Rob Horton
georgeevans88 ?/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Claire
Al Franks 08/Oct/07 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch

RagingPuffin 08/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
with Sam Howell
Jen79 07/Sep/07 2nd
with Matt Tranter
Jack Symmons 30/Aug/07 AltLd
with Chris T
Circus 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden 08/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Chris Sansum 23/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

A really nice line up an arete - the most obvious line on the cliff. I'd give it 2.5 stars. Gear is a bit sparse in places, often where you would most need it, on the technical moves. Cave window on the 3rd pitch is a bit surreal, with the tourists about 10 feet away as you set off to climb the pitch. Felt as hard as some HVS routes elsewhere. Take some cash so you can buy ice cream and visit the camera obscura at the top.

with Weilin Wang
pandalover 23/Jun/07 AltLd O/S

Led the easy picth only

with Chris
Lev 07/May/07 AltLd rpt
with Emma Ross, Sarah Stanbridge
Hidden 07/May/07 AltLd O/S
django ?/May/07 2nd O/S
with John Rowe
thomasadixon 31/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with somerset swede basher
Somerset swede basher 31/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Dixon
sdi 03/Mar/07 AltLd rpt
with Eddie Hung
gimmer ??/2007 -
Matt Tranter ??/2007 -
Matt Tranter ??/2007 -
maresia 16/Dec/06 2nd O/S
with Rob Scheichl
Greg Pittam ?/Aug/06 2nd
with James Burrows
Hidden 08/Jul/06 2nd O/S
jon bradley 21/Jun/06 AltLd
timstyles 21/Jun/06 AltLd O/S

Richard lead 1st pitch, I lead 2nd and Jon lead the 3rd pitch with the committing start next to the belay.

tom.e 05/May/06 Lead rpt
with Charlie Everett
Feeling bold ?/May/06 2nd O/S

I tried an alternative route on last pitch pulling the rope horizontal to go right and use the pockets. Touch hard though and forgot that I still had to get gear out. Meanwhile, I had collected a quite a few onlookers on bridge. So back round the bend to perform the hard bit up the edge while onlookers hanging out of cave with camera. Heaved myself up in do it or die moment. Be a while before I try that again! but hey scenic.

with Ian - Yorkshire
John Lisle ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Richard Hall ??/2006 Lead

Many times

beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Many
Bristoldave ??/2006 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1 & 3

with Neil Ferguson
gripped01 ?/Dec/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
Hidden 27/Nov/05 AltLd rpt
Hidden 27/Nov/05 AltLd rpt
JamieAyres 27/Nov/05 AltLd rpt

led the 5a variant middle pitch. Nick led the rest. started after the 70' scramble at the bottom. The old peg on the top pitch long gone! Finished off with a pint in The Mall.

Hidden 12/Nov/05 AltLd O/S
Fat Tim 09/Oct/05 Lead rpt
kyt341k ?/Oct/05 2nd β
with Tim Rolfe
_m.cox_ ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Jo Stadden
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Solo rpt
mwh 21/Jun/05 2nd O/S
with Little T
mol 18/Jun/05 AltLd
with Dave
MagnusL 30/Apr/05 AltLd O/S

Led middle ungraded pitch

with My mate Cormac
Lev 27/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

Police turn'd up while we were climbing, and a police helicopter but we're not really sure why - Found out later it was for some guy that had soloed up unknown wall and got stuck

with James Byrne
Norman_P_W 25/Mar/05 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 25/Mar/05 AltLd
joe_alexander 03/Mar/05 AltLd
with Simon Kimber
sdi ??/2005 AltLd
with Tom K
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd O/S
phsharpy ??/2005 Solo O/S
with Bethan Davies
Hidden ??/2005 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
furry ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
Andrew Barker ?/May/04 AltLd O/S
with Dave Peachey
MikeC59 02/Apr/04 Lead
Hidden 28/Mar/04 AltLd
tom.e ??/2004 Lead O/S
MikeC59 17/Nov/03 Lead

1. Lead 2. Second 3. Lead

climbingxcat 08/Jul/03 2nd β
with Brian
MikeC59 08/Apr/03 AltLd
five ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with MS
cliffy ??/2003 AltLd O/S
with Norman Wright
Paz ??/2003 AltLd

Went direct on P1 through the Hawthorn - uck.

with A?
BALD EAGLE 26/Jun/02 Lead
with Paul McCloy
EllieWoods 06/May/02 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and p3

with Trevor
Hidden ?/May/02 -
IceMonkey1982 ??/2002 -
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
simon kimber ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Nick Kimber
Paz ??/2002 Solo

After a beer and a house viewing.

Paz ?/Jul/01 AltLd
with CC
Hidden 24/Jun/01 AltLd
Jim Brooke ?/May/01 2nd rpt
with Adrian Fletcher, James Latham
MartinN 29/Apr/01 AltLd O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

KRB 19/Apr/01 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
Stone Muppet ??/2001 -

nice repeat after 1999 epic :-)

CurlyStevo ??/2001 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/00 Lead
Ally Smith ??/2000 -
Bullybones ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Boxy 09/Sep/99 Lead O/S
Jim Brooke 03/May/99 Lead O/S
with Vic
jim_randell 07/Jun/98 AltLd rpt
with PS
kevp ?/Mar/98 Lead O/S
with Gareth Arnold
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/98 Lead
Will Homoky ?/Mar/97 2nd O/S

My first outdoor climb

with Pat (CC)
Hidden ??/1997 Lead
mike fenwick ?/Jul/96 Solo

Back rope solo

Jim Brooke 15/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
with James Latham
pezzerrr ??/1996 AltLd O/S
kp64zl ?/May/95 Lead
with Tara
jim_randell 12/Apr/95 Lead rpt

With 5a variation pitch.

with MB
Didymus 05/Mar/95 AltLd O/S

led p2 only

with Rongor
duncan 05/Feb/95 AltLd rpt

Alpine Style! Cold and damp

with Dan Donovan
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Marti999 ??/1995 AltLd O/S
with anthony
colin milton 30/Jul/94 2nd
with eric milton
GAtkins 16/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with David Trelawney-Ross
Hidden 05/Jun/94 AltLd
jim_randell 10/May/94 AltLd O/S

5a variation.

with FW
NeilGriffiths 05/Mar/94 AltLd
with jon didymus
leland stamper ?/Sep/93 Lead rpt
with rich anderson
snowcat 08/Aug/93 2nd

Fell off and swung in front of the cave to the amusement of tourists

with Richard Baker, Chris Schiller
chris sm 25/May/93 AltLd O/S
with Martin Sime
AndySL ??/1993 AltLd O/S

Mountain style with three on the rope. I lead the third pitch.

with Sean, Mark
markpollak ??/1993 Lead O/S

a classic! love it

with neil dennison, suzanne mcfadzean
Hidden ??/1993 Lead
mikej 06/Aug/92 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
Budge ??/1992 AltLd
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden 22/Sep/91 AltLd
Hidden 01/May/90 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/89 AltLd
Tony Buckley ?/Jan/88 AltLd
AndyB123 ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Andy E
Hidden ?/May/86 2nd
Budge ??/1986 AltLd O/S
with Bonds Western
mark-abz 10/Nov/85 Lead
with Bill P
clark alston ?/Oct/85 Lead O/S
Pete Nugent 30/Sep/84 AltLd

led p1&3

with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
JamieAyres ??/1984 Lead O/S

Did the easier variants then.

with Phil Windall
The Reaper 21/May/83 AltLd
Nigel Bond 17/Apr/83 AltLd
with Stuart Cathcart
leland stamper ?/Jun/82 AltLd O/S
babymoac 14/Feb/82 Lead
with Dave Cardy
AlanLittle ??/1982 -
John Marsland ??/1982 AltLd
with Dave Hewitson
charlesmfrench 31/Oct/81 AltLd O/S


Hidden 09/Sep/81 2nd
Marq ??/1980 AltLd
with Martin P
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Steve Bell ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1980 -
duncan ?/Sep/79 Lead O/S
beaumap 03/Sep/77 Lead
with Pete Coghill
Hidden ?/Sep/77 AltLd O/S
Brian Wilderspin ?/Aug/77 AltLd
Ken Taylor 17/Feb/76 Lead O/S
with Steve Pogmore
Andy Chubb ??/1976 -
with Pete Coghill
Andy Chubb ??/1976 Lead
with Pete Coghill
Rob Davies 02/Nov/75 Lead

No peg for aid on P3?

with Bob Lowe (CUMC)
Steve Lewis ?/Oct/75 Lead O/S
with Morty
Mark Kemball 10/May/75 Lead

Used a peg (tut tut)!

with Norman
alpboy57 ?/Apr/75 -
with Si Pryce
Rob Davies 27/May/74 2nd

Peg for aid on P3?

with Mike Papworth
tapley 04/May/74 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Bolt Phobia 06/Apr/74 Lead
jon 09/Dec/73 Lead
with Elaine
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Gordon Stainforth 10/Oct/69 Lead
with Chris West, Mike Scott
Hidden ??/1966 AltLd
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 112
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 110
Votes cast 116
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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