No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Six classic alpine North Faces, Alpine Grande Courses, Euro Alpine Rock.

perrys 21/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Bruce Kerry
Hidden 04/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Misha 01/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Fast for a change!

davkeo 01/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

A near perfect day on this classic north face. Pretty fast by our standards too. 5.5hrs for the climb then a bit of moving together to the summit. Chose to take just 1 x 60m rope so we down climbed & abbed the north ridge in 3hrs. Dropped my phone on the descent so spent 30 mins or so collecting its scattered remains. I then got stung by a bee on my neck! Still, all that couldn't take the shine of the overall experience. Our eagles nest bivi spot at the notch will b hard to beat for situation & atmosphere overlooking the face. A day when it all came together.

with Misha
Hidden 27/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
DigitalSteak 27/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Superb day on great quality rock. 8 hours up, 4 down N Ridge

Noodles30 26/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with tim howell
Tom.Priestley 19/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Led all pitches

with John Venier
Hidden 19/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
gjd 19/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Brian H
AnnaBacklund ?/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

A beautiful route! I have been wanting to climb it for 13 years (and have tried twice before but turned back because of .bad weather)! We had perfect conditions and it even felt easy, did a lot of simul-climbing. Approach 2h, climbing to the ridge 6h, the ridge 1h, descent to Gianetti 2h.

Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
with paul Chiddle
David Horwood 14/Sep/16 -
nige 28/Aug/16 AltLd
with ewan mccallum
Dave Parton 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Adam Ellwood
mchardski 24/Aug/16 AltLd

Jon lead hardest pitches. 17 hrs Sas Fura to Gianetti inc 1 hr on summit. 2 litres water was enough just. Awesomely grippy rock. Grades reasonable. Quite some traffic to begin with but dispersed after the big ledge and crux 6a pitch. Did not take ice axe or crampons and did not need them for the approach or the long and tiring return the following day.

with Jon Brain
Hidden 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
MSchobitz 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Some of the best climbing I have ever done. Some of the best rock I have ever climbed. Left hut at 3:00. 8 hours to summit, 1 hour wasted due to a route finding error. Descent over north ridge. Caught in thunderstorm, air and ground buzzing for over an hour while cowering away. Back to hut at 21:00.

with Robert W.
tomdude 13/Aug/16 AltLd

Classic mountain trip! Bivied below route. First to start but got a little confused after middle easy pitches so ended up 3rd. Hardest pitch seemed to be the 5b chimney. Surprising amount of hollow rock. Climbing OK but highlight was arriving at the mega exposed ridge. Got talked out of abbing ridge so stayed in Gianetti and walked back in AM - nice walk over Porchilezzo and Trubinasca passes.

with rob
robertmichaellovell 13/Aug/16 AltLd

Amazing mountain journey bivvying at the base of the route, doing the route, back to the Gianetti (not the plan), then back around to the hut on the Swiss side the next day. Shared the route with some cool folk too

with Tom
Granitemuncher 07/Aug/16 Lead G/U

not technical at all, nice outing, 5.30 am start - 3pm summit. bring some tat i case you loose the ab line on the north ridge.

with Matt Johnson
Jacob Phillips ?/Aug/16 Lead
GeorgeNunn ?/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Great day out. Route finding not to bad. Belays all had at least one bolt. A splattering of in situ gear to help but mainly using your own protection. Once you get on the north ridge, for us anyway it was a riot of people and party's ropes climbing over the top of each other. Decended down 'another day in paradise' on the north face. About 3 1/2 hours from summit to base of route. Easy route finding and much steeper than decending down north ridge. All belays are equipt to abb and get better as height is lost. :)

with George Reeder
wi11 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Great route. Left the car at midnight to beat the crowds, overtaken by a few parties and down to the Gianetti hut for 7pm. Long day!

with Louisa Reynolds
chris_B 06/Aug/15 AltLd

15 hours from base of climb to summit: about 7 hours climbing, 8 waiting. So frustrating watching so many displays of incompetence in front of us and not being able to get past! Did summit ridge with head torches and slept outside the bivvy hut. Good, varied climbing though, never really hard. Recommend getting a really early start or do at a quieter time of year!

louby 06/Aug/15 -

Shame we got stuck behind the crowds - at least half the time on the route sat on belays waiting, at least a warm night to sleep on the summit with 13 other people!!! One blanket between two. Hmm stick to less "classic" routes in future?

Peter Metcalfe 04/Aug/15 AltLd

Take lots of water (2L) minimum. Just goes on and on. The first pitch in the Exit Chimneys was horrendous, could arguably have been another crux. 6a crux feels like a sustained HVS (5a). Eleven hours from Cassin Boss to summit ridge. Traversed over the summit and dropped down to the Gianetti. Hell of a walk back the next day - see if you can get a lift!

Rhys Macallister 04/Aug/15 AltLd
with John McCune
un bach ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Si ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Teamed up with Lou B and Jamie on descent

Nemmie 28/Jul/15 AltLd
Mark Fairhurst 26/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Great climb, good weather conditions for the climb then cloud moved in before topping out. Left the Sasc Fura Hut at 4am, climbed the route, descended down the South Couloir and at Ginanetti Hut before 7pm. Quick bowl of soup then a 1.5hr run down to Bagni del Mesino Valley to get a taxi to San Martino, Pizza and Beer by 2230!

with Jon Holliday
NeilGriffiths 21/Jul/15 AltLd
with Adrian Pedley
TRFrost 21/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
np134 21/Jul/15 AltLd
a pedley 21/Jul/15 AltLd

Left hut 3.30am back at hut 10am the following day!!, was all going well till i lost my belay device, abbing down the North ridge would be a ball acke at the best of times made worse on an Italian hitch which turned the rope to tangled spagetti with numerous rope snags on the pull through meaning jugging back up the ropes in the dark four times with impending thunderstorms going off all around a real joy, we got into a rythem and made it to a ledge by midnight and decided to bivvi there for the night and wait for light, many "spooning moments" later the sun came up and we were 4 abseils from the col, the north ridge is a real pain, even in the light it would be tricky. The climb is great fun, felt hard for the grades but nowhere desperate, the climbing took us eleven hours but getting stuck behind other groups must have cost us upto 3 hrs, 50 m ropes, 12 quickdraws, set of friends, wires 1~10 and a few long slings each, 2 litre of water each just about did it but then again it wasnt that hot!!, take something warm just incase you have an unplanned bivvi and dont knock the spooning, needs must!!

with neil Griffeths
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
ChrisBrooke 08/Sep/14 AltLd

Epic few days. Flew out, drove to Bondo and walked in to the bivi spot on Saturday. Climbed the route on Sunday, finished in the dark and did the last hour moving along the ridge to the summit with head-torches. Night in bivi hut, descended to Italy on Monday, and walked back over the passes to the Sasc Fura. Didn't especially enjoy the climbing itself but being on that face is pretty epic. Colin did a great job on the hard top pitches as I was knackered by then, carrying a bad cold/hacking cough.

with Colin Peck
Hidden 18/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
timmeehhhh 05/Aug/13 AltLd

Crux sections were approaching with a hangover and descending towards Val Masino with a busted ankle. I overcame the first exit chimney with a series of full body jams in the narrow part of the chimney. The exposure felt on the penultimate pitch was amplified by the helicopter that hovered 15m away to check if everyone was doing ok.

robpartridge 15/Jul/13 AltLd

First ascent for the season apparently. There are some snow patches on the traverse into the route but they were reasonably negotiable with some stiff approach shoes, crampons and ice axes. Rest of the route is super dry. Decent down N.ridge. Good rap anchors, mostly 35 meters apart!

with Chris Sheridan
richjm ?/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Classic, route finding better than expected. Long ab down north ridge.

with Josh Fawcett
Hidden 28/Aug/12 Lead
LJC 28/Aug/12 AltLd O/S


with Tom
Hidden 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 17/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

every pitch worth 2 stars minimum. Next time take more that 1.5 litres of water between you... 13 hours up after a slower party ahead and 5 hours down. back to the hut to get some water!! and in tents by 2.

Simon Allcock 15/Aug/12 2nd
with Wilki
HimTiggins 08/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Bart
tebs 08/Aug/12 AltLd
with Tim
HansStuttgart ?/Aug/12 -

First day of good weather in a while, way too busy. 7h climbing, 8h waiting, beautiful sunset on the summit, scary abseils in the night.

atek 18/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
rlade ??/2012 -
with Rob McGregor
thebigeasy ?/Sep/11 Lead

This was the second time ive done the route. Lead all the pitches as partners first alpine route.

with Hanner
Andy Chubb 23/Aug/11 2nd

Busy day on the Cassin, with approx 12 parties on it. Big bottleneck at the foot of the steep crack around pitch 12. Not much chance of overtaking after that. Overall about 7 1/2 hours to do the route and 4 1/2 down to the foot of the North Ridge. A couple of moves of 6a, but the main thing is it's 26 pitches so you've got to move.

with Twid Turner
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
southernclimber 12/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 11/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Perfect conditions. 8 hrs up, 4 to ab N ridge

Hidden 11/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
chrisallan 11/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
zukator 10/Aug/11 AltLd

Get a really early start - particularly if you want to go down the North Ridge.

with Owain
Owain Llewelyn 10/Aug/11 AltLd

Amazing route. Did it on the first day it came into condition this year and got stuck behind slower parties. Topped out not long before dark and shared the summit bivvy with six others.

with Dad
benclimbing ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climb. Bone dry. Cruxes felt around the HVS/E1 mark. Lots of in situ gear and good belays when you need them. 14 hours from hut to hut. I will definitely carry more than 1 litre of water next time!

DAL ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
The old James turnbull ??/2011 -
with aiden
ollie1 05/Sep/10 AltLd


mike hope 02/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Some of the best climbing & one of the best routes I've done. Snowed on/off for 2 days before getting on it. 12hrs from bivvi to summit. Overnight in shelter, down and back round via Gianetti rather than rap the Ridge.

with Martin S
nick bamber ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S

The best climbing experiance, pure perfection

with martin knight
sebrider 09/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Awesome, but epic descent down North Ridge. Gets more sustained as height is gained.

with Dan Walker
C Mclean 14/Jul/10 AltLd
with Tom Nichols
rufus.duits ?/Jul/10 Solo
basvdploeg ??/2010 -
david morse 31/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Wicked route. Be patient on descent. Left car 1am back 9pm, long day! Nothing harder than HVS, first chimney pitch i thought was the crux. Many, many pegs, didnt place a wire. Classic!

with lole
jamie ward 28/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Williams
noskki 05/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
innes ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Ruth
haydng ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Rachel
Hidden 25/Jul/09 AltLd
mic_b 25/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Apart from pulling on gear, falling off Neils route finding errors and the use of an ice axe :-)

with Neil Furness
tommytuffa 16/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Felix lead trickier pitches, but i didn't find them difficult. Destroyed this route 5-6 hrs, v fast. Descent down ridge was pain.

with Felix
felixthelion 16/Jul/09 AltLd

Moved together for a lot of it. Cruxes felt very reasonable. Good time 5-6 hrs.

lukehunt 16/Jul/09 AltLd

5h15, notch to summit

with Steve barrat
hamish2016 ?/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. 7 hours from niche to summit.

with Tom Ripley
irish paul ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Brilliant Route. Did it two years after first considering it. First up it that day and last off it having abbed onto the NW face by mistake. Joined with some Italians who spent two nights on the mountain. 25hours bivvy to bed but every second was worth it.

with Ed
Dirk Wallis 21/Aug/08 AltLd
Dave Rumney 05/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

2 hrs walk from Sasc Fura to notch, 1 hour across ledges, 8 hrs up to N ridge (held up by slow parties), 1 hr to summit, 3 hrs down to Gianetti, 3 hrs down to road in Italy. 90 mins lift back to Vicosoprano.

with Andy Cole
pauldrew 05/Aug/08 AltLd
pete johnson 05/Aug/08 -
hilled101 ?/Aug/08 AltLd
with Irish
NickJH ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
tumbling wizard ?/Aug/08 AltLd
Mark Walter ?/Aug/08 AltLd dnf

failed twice in 4 days, was first ill then got off route, will be back for this one!

with Steve Becwith
Chris L Hill ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Nicos 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Oliver Sherman ?/Aug/07 AltLd dog

Awesome!!! Did it on the wet over 12 hours, topped out as the sun set and climbed the remaining ridge by headtorch to reach bivi hut after 11pm. Great day out. Great route!

Hidden ?/Aug/07 AltLd
Neil Adams 14/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Upper chimneys very wet so pulled on a fair bit of gear there, otherwise all free. Got held up behind a very slow party so had an interesting descent of the N ridge in the dark.

andyinglis 14/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Excellent climb.

with neil adams
sadams 13/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Eric Hildrew
Adam Booth 06/Jul/07 AltLd dnf

Had to back off due to route finding/ poor conditions high on route

Ed Booth 06/Jul/07 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
frost ?/Jul/07 AltLd
with D Garry
mux ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Very Hot day great climbing, hard work on the decent, few rope jams and loss of Abb stations.

Hidden ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
Pete Graham ??/2007 AltLd
reg_measures 17/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

5.5 hours to climb face - awesome route

with timmy elson
Hidden 06/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
sgl ?/Jul/05 -
with Konnie
tom.e ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Started at 2am from the car at the end of the road, got back to the car at 5am the next morning after 27 hours on the go.

with Charlie Everett
ian bryant ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with dom
Justin Tracey ?/Aug/03 AltLd
with Dan Hinton
tuftynick ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with simon nadin, louise richards
nickdonohue ?/Aug/03 AltLd

Quality route, only 1 or 2 broken pitches. Technical climbing equivalent to english 5b. Belays equipped with 2 bolts. (shame as it causes other parties to crowd the belays...)

with Jon Aylward
Robmwatt ??/2003 -
with Gaz Morgan
dan gibson ?/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
Bruce Kerr 27/Jul/02 AltLd
with Alan Smith
Tim Sparrow ??/1999 AltLd

Lots of keyrings to clip!

with Geoff Thomas
Hidden ??/1997 AltLd
bobelvedere ?/Jul/95 AltLd

Magnificient climbing in completely awesome surroundings. One of the best alpine climbs I'we ever done.

with Henrik Jessen Hansen
Stewart Armstrong ?/Jul/93 AltLd
alpinist63 ??/1991 -
RichardMc 11/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
with Angel Vila
Richard Weller ?/Jul/88 AltLd
with john sanders
Neil McA 17/Aug/84 AltLd O/S

Excellent! We approached direct up the glacier and did the more direct start up the lower walls avoiding the walk in along the ledges, but of course had to carry our plastic boots, crampons and axes on the route. Soloed down the North ridge. 6 hours for the route and 6 hours for the descent! Did the NW Spur of the Cengalo 2 days before. Fantastic 3 days in the mountains.

with Jim Dockery
uphillnow 04/Aug/81 AltLd

Had to wait for face to clear of snow, chimneys were quite wet. Lead most of the route but Richard lead at least one of the nicer pitches. Descended the North Ridge. Most of climbing is less fine than the Cengalo

with Richard Griffiths
Hidden ?/Aug/80 -
Martin Bennett 29/Jul/75 -
with RA
jcw ??/1975 -
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Style of ascent
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