UKC

Rockfax Description
An excellent route up the centre of Torre del Barancio's north face. The situations are surprisingly exposed for such a short route and the handholds on the first pitch can feel somewhat less than positive, but the rock is excellent and the climbing interesting throughout.
Start in the middle of the north face.
1) IV+, 25m. Climb to a niche 2m up on the right, then traverse left heading for a second niche. The first section feels quite exposed but is protected by a hidden ring 8m up.
Exit the niche on the right then make a rising traverse left then back right to a ledge and a cement ring belay.
2) IV+, 25m. Climb diagonally left from the belay with enjoyable climbing passing plenty of fixed gear to reach two cracks. Climb the right-hand of these, overcome a bulge at half-height then continue to another cement ring belay on the large ledge formed by the horizontal break in the face.
3) IV, 20m. Ascend rightwards then continue direct to reach a large ledge. Continue up a series of small ledges, moving slightly left.
4) IV, 25m. Climb direct up the centre of the tower with numerous possible lines to reach a flake at 20m. Continue on the left side of the tower to a series of ledges. Traverse the ledge rightwards then climb direct to a second ledge with a ring belay on the flat of the ledge on the arete itself.
5) IV+, 15m. Climb direct above the ring with steep climbing on the left side of the arete to the summit. Belay on a cement ring at the back right (SW) corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch trad route - 4, 4+, 3+,4,4

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel , Dolomites Trip

Feedback

User Date Notes
Madmax245 18 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Did a full length abseil off the other side of the tower instead of the small one onto the other tower and then down. We had 70m Half ropes and they reached the bottom fine
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did a full length abseil off the other side of the tower instead of the small one onto the other tower and then down. We had 70m Half ropes and they reached the bottom fine
David Clover 21 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Gear is there when its needed. First two pitches are the most techncial/demanding but not as polished or as run out as the guidebook suggests. P4 is closer to 40m than 25. Take plenty of slings for threads, the only worthwhile gear for a lot of the upper route
Show beta
βeta: Gear is there when its needed. First two pitches are the most techncial/demanding but not as polished or as run out as the guidebook suggests. P4 is closer to 40m than 25. Take plenty of slings for threads, the only worthwhile gear for a lot of the upper route
Bob M 7 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: On the 2nd pitch, the worn holds and the fixed gear suggest that most people climb the left hand of the twin cracks. Pitch 4 is nearer 35m than 25m.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On the 2nd pitch, the worn holds and the fixed gear suggest that most people climb the left hand of the twin cracks. Pitch 4 is nearer 35m than 25m.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Via Maria/Mariakante

Grade: IV+ ***
(Sass Pordoi)

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