Rockfax Description
A good pitch up the shallow groove cleaving the cleanest piece of rock here. Climb the groove then traverse left and pull through the roof to gain the soaring shallow corner. This gives interesting and sustained climbing with good gear throughout. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
E1 5c in the Ground Up selected guide.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
Climbingspike ??/2017 -
ripper 09/Oct/16 2nd
jon_gill1 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with rosie hawker, john ripley
Wendy Watthews 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, the start was damp and crozzly but the two cruxes are excellent, the first is thin and balancey the second easier and bridgy.

with Little Gorman
TaylorMade Climbing 29/Aug/16 Lead O/S
soph 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Frances Taylor
soph 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Frances Taylor
Tubs 05/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Very thin at the crux but at least the gear is good.

with Naomi
Hidden 23/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/16 Lead O/S
neal 19/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Nice moves, good gear.

with Chris S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/16 2nd β
Hidden 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 24/May/16 2nd O/S

A couple hard sections, good lead for Tom

with Tom Hudson
RKirke 04/Oct/15 2nd O/S
Jake Young 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S

tricky crux but good, nice and safe.

with Roger K
Hidden 23/Jul/15 2nd
Ian Jones 23/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Thin and reachy.

SAF 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Phil
Hidden 18/Jul/15 Lead β
Hidden 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
harold walmsley 30/Jun/15 2nd rpt

Chris took the nut key with him by mistake and left it on a piece at the 2nd crux. Needed it for 2 pieces lower down so had to lower from the rest below the 2nd crux to get them (then climb the first crux again!).

with Chris Calow
jezb1 09/Jun/15 2nd
SGD 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Excellent, best route I've done in some time.

MichaelGallimore 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Found it pretty stiff. Lovely moves left past the roof.

JamesWilliams 21/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Lowered down without trying the first crux without committing to it so pretty much an onsight. felt like I cruised it today compared to the battle I had just getting to the crux last time

with Qureshi
Hidden ??/2015 2nd
Mike_Hayes 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 06/Sep/14 2nd

Nice slab climbing on crux

Hidden 05/Aug/14 Lead O/S
grakgrak 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Ewan Callaway
Ewan Russell 23/Jul/14 2nd RP

previously failed to lead.

with Halla
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Patu 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S

great moves!

with Nicolas
michael burrows 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Phil Creed
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd dnf
chris smith 21/Jun/14 Lead

Awesome and really well protected especially on all the crux sections.

with Malcolm watson
tmawer 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Bram
BTphonehome 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S

Good stuff. Thin crux sections thankfully separated by a small ledge.

with Tony
adamre12 19/May/14 Lead O/S

Really nice route although pretty high in the grade and sustained climbing throughout. Well worth doing - excellent rock and stunning backdrop high up in Idwal.

Allanfairfechan ??/2014 2nd
with iwan arfon jones
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 19/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd
Brannock 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Pretty good, awkward start, interesting climbing up the corner, some very thin moves, loads of gear.

MPSBunny 02/Jun/13 2nd dog

Did a pretty good job seconding this, unfortunately I did a dynamic move and didn't take into account the additional weight of the rucksack and came up a tad short necessitating a last moment grab for gear. This was a continuation from Hope followed by The Arete.

Shaw Brown 19/May/13 Lead
with fi massey
mimi22 26/May/12 2nd
ksjs 24/May/12 Lead RP

V poor effort, sneaked left into this after giving up on Scone Run (which didn't feel so 'well-protected' when trying to gain upper part of crack). Point of aid to place gear in upper part of the crux corner on this - did not fancy hitting ledge a few days before heading on a sport trip. Generally felt tired, with head elsewhere, sore feet and not up for making an effort today. Superb rock, great route and will be back to do this and Scone Run...

Tom Livingstone 17/May/12 Lead O/S
ojgrant 17/May/12 2nd dog
pabbage 05/May/12 Lead O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 23/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Dafydd Llywelyn 12/Nov/11 2nd
with Sam Houlker
Bulls Crack 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Lovely rock, good climbing

with RW
Bulls Crack 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Nice climbing on perfect rock. Seems more logical start directly below it rather than traversing in?

with RW
will_benfold 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S

First 5c lead.

with Miles
harold walmsley 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Paul Evans
Tom Hecht 25/Aug/11 2nd β
with Josh Marshall
Chriswallis2 30/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Jenny
Chriswallis2 14/Jul/11 Lead rpt
with Anna
Graeme Hammond 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

excellent well protected climbing, really enjoyed :)

with Becky E
Becky E 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Jenny Clarke ?/Jul/11 2nd

with rucksack

Alex Mason 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Lovely route, bombproof gear and the second crux (5b) is dead good.

with Laura Perry
Marti999 24/Jun/11 Lead O/S
metal arms 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Lev 03/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Noodles 02/Jun/11 2nd

Awesome route!

Bennykr 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Sweet Route!! :D

with Noodles
david morse 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with lole
stephenarnold 01/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Had to go around the crux very hard and soaking wet.

PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
pie_eater_pete 16/Dec/10 Lead
with bwestwood
grp 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Cornish Cream ?/Oct/10 2nd
with Geoff
barni 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Karen
mlmatt 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with chris jones
Hidden 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Chriswallis2 25/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Anna
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
HIGHTOWER 20/Jun/10 2nd
Duncan Campbell 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S

awesome...definately 5c...i didnt follow the corner all the way as i moved out left following some chalk on the just as it becomes a corner with a copuple difficult moves to regain the corner..some lovely finger-locks on the next section

with Mav, Hannah
Tightsgirl 20/Jun/10 2nd
pebbles 19/Jun/10 2nd dog

had a little anti gravity aid from guido on the crux

d_meacher 17/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/10 Lead
Conan 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Dom Hall
C Mclean 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with dave robinson, paul doran
Juglan 31/May/10 2nd dog
Ed Booth 26/May/10 2nd O/S

Wills first E1!

Cardi 17/May/10 2nd O/S

Need to learn how to slab climb!

with Tom R
simonp ?/May/10 Lead
with Annelies Sarrazyn
Derek Ryden ?/May/10 -
with Glynne Andrew
Hidden 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
smallerrich 21/Aug/09 2nd rpt
with Mikey
Nicos 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
smallerrich 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

5c moves but fairly obvious to read. Incredible climbing!

with Bron
Bron 05/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Rich Carnell
masa-alpin 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S

The crux blank corner was technical and balancy particularly with a rucksack (I agree with 5c), but safe and most enjoyable. I thought another 5c followed in the next section, but maybe that is only me, as my second did not have any trouble there.

Pixie-Andy 25/Jul/09 2nd dog

I thought the grade of 5b/c was about right, until i got to the crux where i felt it was more like 6b. But i did have a ruck sack on. The route would suit people who are light in weight and height does not help at the crux. My partner felt the grade was about right.

MontyH 14/Jun/09 2nd
with Brian
brian watson 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
mynyddresident ?/Jun/09 Lead
Ceridwen 24/May/09 Lead O/S
with Val
Conan 31/May/08 2nd O/S

Excellent delicate climbing. Top end of its grade.

with Dave Carr
Rob Davies 15/May/08 2nd

Lots of small edges - shows what the rock on this wall was like before climbers smoothed it down

with Lars (BMC)
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden 20/Oct/07 Lead
coffeepot 20/May/07 2nd

More like 5c, really tricky

with jelaby
IOAN D 28/May/06 Lead O/S
with rob
bigie bob ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S
jgordon75 07/Oct/02 Lead
with Rod Gritten
Bullybones ??/2002 -
Hidden 29/Aug/01 Lead O/S
phardman 23/Jun/01 Lead O/S
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
pasbury ??/2000 -
charlesmfrench 27/Jul/97 Lead O/S
with Ian Milne
Martin Bennett 14/Apr/95 -
with Faz Faraday, Jerry Evans
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 17/Jul/94 Lead
babymoac 19/Aug/89 Lead
with Graeme
malc 03/Nov/87 2nd
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Voting
High E2
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Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 40
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set