180m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An epic outing with some fine climbing, and a magnificent fifth pitch which makes it all worthwhile. It is also currently claimed to be the longest sport route in the UK. Start at the base of a brown slab between the starts of The Desolation of Smaug! and Long in the Twll...
1) 6b, 30m. Follow the seam/crack feature to an easing at the arete. Surmount the large flake before traversing a series of cleaned ledges which lead up to a bolt belay at the base of the large slab.
2) 6a+, 35m. Follow the line of bolts directly up the slab to reach a vertical groove. Bridge up this to gain a diagonal groove feature which leads to a shared belay with Long in the Twll...
3) 6a, 25m. Follow the ramp feature to a horizontal break, then traverse along the break below the bolts until it is possible to step down into Hamadryad just above a dead tree. Continue up and rightwards past a hidden bolt on a block ledge, until it is possible to clip the last resin bolt on the second pitch of The Desolation of Smaug!. Belay on the slopy ledge as for The Desolation of Smaug!.
4) 6b, 25m. Climb The Desolation of Smaug! to the third bolt, before traversing across blocky ledges to a fixed rope on a square-cut block. Extend this with a sling and down climb until it is possible to step around the corner. Two further bolts (best to extend with slings) protect the remainder of the traverse to a bolt belay directly below the stunning arete.
5) 7a, 35m. This is what all the traversing was for; a stunning well-positioned technical arete which provides great climbing all the way. It is possible to belay at the top of the arete or continue diagonally up and left, on great dolerite and in an awesome position, to a mantel and then a bolt belay on a large ledge.
6) 6a+, 30m. Traverse leftwards along the gangway for about 8m or so, until you reach the base of the green dolerite arete. Continue up the arete in a fine position with some funky holds, to a belay where you can relax and enjoy some stunning views. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
THE LONGEST SPORT ROUTE IN THE UK.
Tân y Ddraig (The Dragons Fire)
Start at the base of a brown slab between the start of 'The Desolation of Smaug!' and the 'Rock Bottom Line'
P1 - 28m 6b Follow the seam / crack feature to an easing at the arête, surmount the large flake before traversing a series of cleaned ledges which lead up to a bolt belay at the base of the large slab.
P2 - 37m 6a / 6a+ Follow the line of bolts directly up the slab to reach a vertical groove, bridge up this to gain a diagonal groove feature which leads to a shared belay ('Long in the Twll / The North will rise again')at the bottom of a ramp.
P3 - 25m 6a Follow the obvious ramp feature to a horizontal break, traverse along the break below the bolts until it is possible to step down into 'Hamadryad' just above a dead tree. Continue up and rightwards past a hidden bolt on a block ledge until it is possible to clip the last resin bolt on the second pitch of 'Smaug!'. Belay as for Smaug on the slopey ledge. Note all bolts on this pitch are well hidden and well away from the Trad route Hamadryad.
P4 - 25m 6b Climb up to the third resin Bolt on P3 of 'Smaug!' before traversing across blocky ledges to an insitu rope on a square cut block, extend this with a sling and down climb until it is possible to step around the corner. Two further bolts (best to extend with slings) protect the remainder of the traverse to a bolt belay directly below the stunning Arête.
P5 - 35m 7a This is what all the traversing was for, a stunning well positioned technical arête, crux by the 2nd / 3rd bolt, follow the arête which provides great climbing all the way. Possible belay at the top of the Arête or continue diagonally up and left on great dolerite in an awesome position to a mantel and bolt belay on a large ledge.
P6 - 30m 6a+ Traverse leftwards along the gangway for about 8m or so until the base of the green dolerite arête is reached, continue up the arête in a fine position with some funky holds to a belay where you can relax and enjoy some stunning views across to Crib Goch and Snowdon.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones (P1,3,4,5) Celt Lloyd-Jones (P2) Callum Nelson (P6) 04/May/2015

Ticklists

Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+, Slate Arêtes (sport), The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!, Sl@teheads Sl@te

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
gary9t9 15 Apr Lead dog 7a pitch was the only sectioned that was dogged all other parts were onsights
7a pitch was the only sectioned that was dogged all other parts were onsights
Gambit 31 Mar AltLd O/S What a great route, lead the even pitches, got pitch 6 clean seconding. Beware pitch one, no push over with hard moves, 6B+ I think. Pitch 5 way harder than pitch 1 on Supermassive Black Hole, but then that is well soft IMO.
with OlI
What a great route, lead the even pitches, got pitch 6 clean seconding. Beware pitch one, no push over with hard moves, 6B+ I think. Pitch 5 way harder than pitch 1 on Supermassive Black Hole, but then that is well soft IMO.
with OlI
Dohnny_Jawes 24 Mar Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Mar AltLd G/U
JoeFranklin 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Superb
Superb
Olly Chapman 29 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S Great afternoon out, mega 5th pitch! Plenty of bolts, all in good condition to date. First pitch still fine after 2 bolts have been removed & damaged (a little run out on easy ground) shame the line couldn’t be left as it was.
Great afternoon out, mega 5th pitch! Plenty of bolts, all in good condition to date. First pitch still fine after 2 bolts have been removed & damaged (a little run out on easy ground) shame the line couldn’t be left as it was.
Logs06 29 Jul, 2018 Solo *Logging this as a note to subsequent climbers - bolts 5 and 6 on the first pitch of Tan y Ddraig are currently missing. We climbed the neighbouring Brown/Davies adventurous trad route 'Hamadryad' yesterday, and found two bolts on Tan y Ddraig were clippable (and were clipped!) from the first pitch of Hamadryad. This doesn't completely alter the character of the pitch but it does alter this slightly bold pitch and goes against the well-established principle of sport routes not impacting on neighbouring trad routes wherever possible. It's entirely straightforward to move the two bolts of Tan y Ddraig by 1.5m to the right without altering any of the difficulty, line of the climb, or effort to clip them - there are bomber footholds and handholds on that part of the pitch. This would mean they weren't clippable from Hamadryad. So I've been back by myself today and removed bolts 5 and 6. The hangers, nuts and washers have been left at the base of the route. This is in no way any kind of slight toward the FA - I'm respectful and appreciative of ILJ's excellent routes in Twll Mawr, including Tan y Ddraig, and am well aware how much effort goes into establishing them.
*Logging this as a note to subsequent climbers - bolts 5 and 6 on the first pitch of Tan y Ddraig are currently missing. We climbed the neighbouring Brown/Davies adventurous trad route 'Hamadryad' yesterday, and found two bolts on Tan y Ddraig were clippable (and were clipped!) from the first pitch of Hamadryad. This doesn't completely alter the character of the pitch but it does alter this slightly bold pitch and goes against the well-established principle of sport routes not impacting on neighbouring trad routes wherever possible. It's entirely straightforward to move the two bolts of Tan y Ddraig by 1.5m to the right without altering any of the difficulty, line of the climb, or effort to clip them - there are bomber footholds and handholds on that part of the pitch. This would mean they weren't clippable from Hamadryad. So I've been back by myself today and removed bolts 5 and 6. The hangers, nuts and washers have been left at the base of the route. This is in no way any kind of slight toward the FA - I'm respectful and appreciative of ILJ's excellent routes in Twll Mawr, including Tan y Ddraig, and am well aware how much effort goes into establishing them.
geoff b 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd rpt A super route, well worth doing again. Led P2, P4 & P5. Is P1 6c? P2 is lovely sustained flowing climbing. P3 needs an extended small nut in Hamadryad really. Found the crux on P5 trickier than last time & had to use the 3rd clip :-(
A super route, well worth doing again. Led P2, P4 & P5. Is P1 6c? P2 is lovely sustained flowing climbing. P3 needs an extended small nut in Hamadryad really. Found the crux on P5 trickier than last time & had to use the 3rd clip :-(
Derek Ryden 15 Jul, 2018 AltLd dog Great route marred by one pitch that's too hard! Respect to Geoff for flashing this - me, I hauled myself up on the bolts, and it still was desperate.
with geoff b
Great route marred by one pitch that's too hard! Respect to Geoff for flashing this - me, I hauled myself up on the bolts, and it still was desperate.
with geoff b
Ed Houghton 9 Jun, 2018 Lead A varied climb, really good day out. Look out for tricky moves low down on the first pitch, the first traverse pitch is modestly bolted but goes nicely, if feeling a tad run out to us sport climbers, the second traverse pitch (with old rope for a runner around rock) was the easiest pitch, we thought. The 7a pitch is a dream! Tough moves just before the the third clip and a few testing, tenuous moves higher up lead to some great sequences and thrilling positions. After the slab the climbing is very easy and enjoyable. The last pitch is also fantastic, climbing the sharp, easy and airy arete at what must be the best position in Twll Mawr is exhilarating and leads to a perfect top out.
with Zoe
A varied climb, really good day out. Look out for tricky moves low down on the first pitch, the first traverse pitch is modestly bolted but goes nicely, if feeling a tad run out to us sport climbers, the second traverse pitch (with old rope for a runner around rock) was the easiest pitch, we thought. The 7a pitch is a dream! Tough moves just before the the third clip and a few testing, tenuous moves higher up lead to some great sequences and thrilling positions. After the slab the climbing is very easy and enjoyable. The last pitch is also fantastic, climbing the sharp, easy and airy arete at what must be the best position in Twll Mawr is exhilarating and leads to a perfect top out.
with Zoe
climb62 ?May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Steve
with Steve
Matthew Davies 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd G/U Lead pitches 1,3,5
with Sean Breza
Lead pitches 1,3,5
with Sean Breza
Chubbard 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd dog First 3 pitches then finished up Desolation
with C Godfrey
First 3 pitches then finished up Desolation
with C Godfrey
CalvinGreen 5 Aug, 2017 Lead dog
with Scott Billington
with Scott Billington
geoff b 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Another stunning route from Ian. P1-P4 were a good warm up, whilst P5 was quite sustained with excellent climbing on immaculate rock. 15 draws needed, especially if you want to belay at the top of the crux slab on P5 & run the end of P5 & P6 together. A couple of long slings are useful on P4 & P6 too. Led P1, P3 & P5. P1 would make a much better (& more enjoyable) start to Long in the Twll. Thanks for naming it after Juliet's shop Ian!
Another stunning route from Ian. P1-P4 were a good warm up, whilst P5 was quite sustained with excellent climbing on immaculate rock. 15 draws needed, especially if you want to belay at the top of the crux slab on P5 & run the end of P5 & P6 together. A couple of long slings are useful on P4 & P6 too. Led P1, P3 & P5. P1 would make a much better (& more enjoyable) start to Long in the Twll. Thanks for naming it after Juliet's shop Ian!
MikePycroft 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Good route hard crux. Lower pitches were interesting top one was good. Led p2, 4, 6. Good move to belay at top of slab on p5
with geoff b
Good route hard crux. Lower pitches were interesting top one was good. Led p2, 4, 6. Good move to belay at top of slab on p5
with geoff b
RosieYates 30 May, 2017 AltLd dog Led pitches 2 and 6. Some nice climbing and a worthwhile day out. The arete pitch was amazing and the only one that I took a fall on.
Led pitches 2 and 6. Some nice climbing and a worthwhile day out. The arete pitch was amazing and the only one that I took a fall on.
mop449 30 May, 2017 AltLd dog Led p1 & 5. A brilliant adventure. Didn't get the crux pitch clean, but an incredible day out. The traverses are a necky lead.
Led p1 & 5. A brilliant adventure. Didn't get the crux pitch clean, but an incredible day out. The traverses are a necky lead.
Emily C 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
jonleighton 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Emily C
with Emily C
CalvinGreen ??, 2017 -
Glyn 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Stunning crux Arete pitch. Other pitches are medicore, but decent. One of the more involved routes on the wall. The traverse on p4 feels spicy and tricky to spot the line initially, although the climbing is quite steady. P5 Arete is amazing climbing in a stunning position.
with Amy UT
Stunning crux Arete pitch. Other pitches are medicore, but decent. One of the more involved routes on the wall. The traverse on p4 feels spicy and tricky to spot the line initially, although the climbing is quite steady. P5 Arete is amazing climbing in a stunning position.
with Amy UT
Amy UT 22 Oct, 2016 AltLd L P1 & P3. Nice adventure with stunning 7a pitch
with Glyn
L P1 & P3. Nice adventure with stunning 7a pitch
with Glyn
treesrockice 31 Aug, 2016 AltLd dog o/s every pitch, except the 7a (dogged) as it rained!
o/s every pitch, except the 7a (dogged) as it rained!
Shane Willis 31 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Dave Almond 1 Jun, 2016 AltLd dog
with Owen Samuel
with Owen Samuel
Hidden 29 May, 2016 AltLd dog
Maynard 29 May, 2016 Lead dog
dswansonlow 9 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S 1,3,5 That arete pitch is one of the best I have done on the slate. Average climbing up to it is totally worth it for that alone. Awesome.
1,3,5 That arete pitch is one of the best I have done on the slate. Average climbing up to it is totally worth it for that alone. Awesome.
shed_hed 9 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S The arete pitch at the top is fantastic and well worth climbing the rest of the route for, which is rather average. Nearly came off on second on the final pitch - stay close to the arete and don't try and face climb it!
The arete pitch at the top is fantastic and well worth climbing the rest of the route for, which is rather average. Nearly came off on second on the final pitch - stay close to the arete and don't try and face climb it!
Hidden 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
mr mills 23 May, 2015 AltLd dnf Led P2, P4 & P6 Alun P1 and P3, dogged P5 the crux pitch, thanks to the guys who trailed our rope up so we could at least get up !
with alun hughes
Led P2, P4 & P6 Alun P1 and P3, dogged P5 the crux pitch, thanks to the guys who trailed our rope up so we could at least get up !
with alun hughes
Steve Long 23 May, 2015 AltLd
pete johnson 23 May, 2015 AltLd dog Strange route. The crux pitch is by far the best but felt hard for 7a. Very unbalanced. Retreat from the crux pitch in the event of rain would be tricky.
Strange route. The crux pitch is by far the best but felt hard for 7a. Very unbalanced. Retreat from the crux pitch in the event of rain would be tricky.
Hidden 12 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
08nbrierley 4 May, 2015 Lead dog lead pitches 2, 4 and 6. Dogged 5
lead pitches 2, 4 and 6. Dogged 5
Jamie Skelton 4 May, 2015 AltLd dog Great route, pitches 1,3,5.
Great route, pitches 1,3,5.
Sl@te Head 4 May, 2015 Lead RP First ascent :-)
First ascent :-)
Callumjnelson 4 May, 2015 AltLd O/S First Ascent. Lead final Pitch
First Ascent. Lead final Pitch
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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Not Set