Rockfax Description
The original route on this section of wall sees little attention these days. It tackles the long diagonal groove in the face. Start down and left of this below a triangular slab. The first pitch begins at a large dolerite boulder.
1) 5a, 25m. The bold line up the lower wall feels serious. A stiff move off the scree gains a broken ledge system that heads up to the base of a slab. Bold technical climbing up its edge leads to a steep wall. Head back left to a bore-hole (cam) and mantel the sloping ledge to a block belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Move up to a ramp-line leading right to the crack. Follow this to a tree belay.
3) 5a, 35m. Continue up the crack passing a silver birch tree, with a small detour onto the left wall to avoid an annoying bush. Rejoin the crack and climb it to a stepped ledge and block belay.
4) 4b, 30m. Continue up the crack, trending left near the top to an easy exit from the wall as for Opening Gambit. © Rockfax


There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

8 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Twll Mawr

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 15 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 5
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Route of Interest
Comes the Dervish

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Vivian Quarry)

Loading Notifications...