Rockfax Description
The original route on this section of wall sees little attention these days. It tackles the long diagonal groove in the face. Start down and left of this below a triangular slab. The first pitch begins at a large dolerite boulder.
1) 5a, 25m. The bold line up the lower wall feels serious. A stiff move off the scree gains a broken ledge system that heads up to the base of a slab. Bold technical climbing up its edge leads to a steep wall. Head back left to a bore-hole (cam) and mantel the sloping ledge to a block belay.
2) 5c, 30m. Move up to a ramp-line leading right to the crack. Follow this to a tree belay.
3) 5a, 35m. Continue up the crack passing a silver birch tree, with a small detour onto the left wall to avoid an annoying bush. Rejoin the crack and climb it to a stepped ledge and block belay.
4) 4b, 30m. Continue up the crack, trending left near the top to an easy exit from the wall as for Opening Gambit. © Rockfax

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