2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A good route, although testing and totally traditional in its second pitch.
1) 4b, 28m. Start just in from the arete and move up and left to gain the arete, follow it past a break and onto a ledge. Move right and climb the face/groove to the ledge. Large cams for the belay.
2) 5a, 8m. The monster crack above will eat you alive. Brute force and ignorance pay dividends, but so does a little old-fashioned off-width technique. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the left side of the arete moving towards centre of face to move past the right side of a holly bush to an impressive ledge. Belay. 2nd pitch (5m) leads up hard corner crack which is climbed by either grace or grunting. Take big gear plus some small cams.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
jrccrosby 18/Jun AltLd O/S

I took the second pitch, very short lived another 4m height would have made it pretty fun. Not sure its really an Off width if you can fist jam it, surely it needs to be too wide for a single hand, I have little hands too!

Theeni 18/Jun AltLd O/S
with Joseph
jamieevans 14/May Lead
smallerrich 19/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Top crack looked average so went directly out right to the arete on a thin ledge. Fun!

foostu4 18/Sep/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 15/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Jmpollard 15/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Top offwidth was a bit disappointing,no way near as offwidthy as I had hoped, more like an awkward fist crack/chimney, but still enjoyable.

with Mark Brown, Hamish Stephen
Hidden 17/Jul/16 AltLd
Tim Sparrow 29/May/16 Lead

Graceful ... ish!

with Ian Owen
TCarrick 28/May/16 -
Harry Ellis 16/May/16 Lead dog

First part of arete is at least VS 5a top crack is only 5a if u can jam!

CatMc ?/May/16 2nd
with Merlin
clams ?/May/16 Lead

Gear on lower arete is a bit shite - felt 4c too

Rory Shaw ??/2016 -
Hidden 12/Aug/15 AltLd
foostu4 16/May/15 AltLd O/S
nodwas 16/May/15 Lead
doughobbs 04/Apr/15 Lead dog

Top section was a bitch!

with Antoinette Wintin
a_mcmullan ??/2015 AltLd O/S

1st pitch was grim with little to no gear, probably warrants an easy hvs

a_mcmullan 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

First pitch cams are essential

Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S
suds_01 10/Aug/14 AltLd
nodwas 10/Aug/14 AltLd
with suds_01
Chriswallis2 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Anna
Andy Clarke 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good but tough start, particularly for the short, if you go direct up arete, rather than coming in from R: had to pop for the jugs. Significantly harder than the 4b given in guide. Crack on P2 climbed with a good deal more grunting than grace, though a fair bit of grazing to all the different body bits I inserted at various times!

with Johnny
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Solo
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Dave Almond 28/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
remi_mcm 22/Jun/14 Lead
NeilGriffiths 03/May/14 -
with Adam
A Crook 03/May/14 AltLd

First pitch is more like 5a

Alex Mason 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
with Tony Powell
LRob ??/2014 Lead O/S
Si ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 Lead
with Jack Graham
jade Edwards Leaney 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Al
Elliot King LC&CC 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. First is a little run out, but not bad. Second pitch was the best fight I've had in a long time! Really enjoyed jamming and fight to the top

with Adrian
George_Surf 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

MIke led bottom pitch. I totally underestimated the offwidth crack on p2. its short but hard work, especially with my crap technique!

with Mike Allday
Michael Allday 09/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Rob Evans ?/May/13 Lead O/S

Climbed a crack in the middle of the slab, quality. Top crack is fun

peter myers ?/May/13 Lead
with Simon Bennet
tim20 ??/2013 -
bwestwood 07/Aug/12 AltLd

horrible scary bottom pitch with run out on slippy quartze! fun top crack though

martrin 20/Jun/12 AltLd
with Sarah Kekus
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd rpt
Jones_88 26/Mar/12 Lead dog

Had a short rest on a cam half way up the second pitch great climb on a boiling hot day.

adam06 25/Mar/12 2nd

got my knee stuck in the top crack so had to rest on the rope to get it out. so handed the lead over to wyn so he could go for the onsite.

Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Kirill 25/Feb/12 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Jan/12 AltLd
jezb1 13/Oct/11 2nd

First pitch was rubbish, second pitch was dripping and greasy

Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead
stevepotter 29/Aug/11 AltLd
with ken
edmitchell 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Steep bottom section probably warrants HVS!

emmarowe 01/May/11 2nd dog
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
chriscarroll 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/11 Lead
Alex.M-M. 20/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Took 1st Section

Tommy Cole 20/Feb/11 AltLd dog

Lead second pitch; the slimy vagina of a crack spat me out on the first attempt. Decent route!

with Chris Carrol
Hidden 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
david morse 29/Jan/11 -

Awesome top pitch, steady if you like fist jams. Shame its over so fast. Wall climbing on the first pitch is also excellent

with Chris+Tori
PAJames ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
Julian Wedd ??/2011 AltLd
with A. Brierley
Hidden ??/2011 -
stuaart 06/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

with Laura Middleton
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
CharlotteJelleyman 30/Aug/10 AltLd

Led P1

with Helen Pitt
dan gibson 29/Jun/10 Solo O/S
jossjones 08/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/10 2nd O/S
tigertim 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Tony Payne
Adam1973 02/May/10 Lead O/S
with Ann S
Ann S 02/May/10 2nd

First pitch super, second pitch-crumbs!!!

with Adam
bob johnson 25/Apr/10 2nd

first pitch stiff start - no gear - second pitch - just bloody minded

with Rich Ball
Glyn 08/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Amy
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
disturbed_one51 07/Mar/10 AltLd

lead 2nd pitch - 'lovely' short but sweet jam crack. just like being on grit!

with Matt (Ruths's friend)
metal arms 07/Feb/10 Lead O/S
justin burgoyne ??/2010 Lead O/S
The Ivanator 29/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

Final corner crack with monumental grunting and zero grace. I led P1 which was great climbing, a little run out in places.

with Stewart
Little B 10/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with Adam
petegruf 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with sarah a
Hidden 02/May/09 2nd dog
eagleopus 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Alys
Hidden 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/09 Lead
snakebite 02/Nov/08 AltLd O/S
cmsg 18/Oct/08 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1.

with Claire Symes
Hidden 13/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
jamie ward 14/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Williams
samwisethebrave2 05/May/08 2nd
with Tim Evans
popov86 24/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden 10/Feb/08 Lead O/S
peter myers ??/2008 Lead O/S
with Angela Boyson
Hidden 07/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 03/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/07 2nd
fran04 ??/2007 AltLd
deanroberts ??/2007 Lead O/S
mikelaing ??/2007 -
mikelaing ??/2006 -
Hidden 20/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden 29/Mar/03 2nd
Mark Kemball 16/Mar/03 Lead
with Rob Jarrett
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Danny O'Neil
John Kettle ??/2003 Lead
Mark Riley ?/Aug/02 Lead O/S
caradoc 21/Jul/02 AltLd O/S
with john b
Hidden 27/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
kjbix 07/Jun/01 AltLd
with Richard Beech
mikej 10/Jul/98 Lead
with R
Marti999 ?/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with larry
pete_fewings ??/1997 Lead O/S
timreynolds 22/Jun/95 AltLd
with Ivan Key
Hidden 08/Jun/95 Lead
Ched ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Hidden 20/Sep/92 2nd
pingora 14/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
with Bankhead
Peakology ??/1990 2nd RP

Geckoid did 1st pitch, I fell dramatically off top pitch. Geck then jammed up top pitch

with mod
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd O/S
nigehughes ?/Apr/89 AltLd
with Ian Merridith
michael burrows 04/Apr/88 AltLd O/S
with pete roberts
mikej 04/Sep/83 AltLd dnf

Too windy.

with Mike Byles
Mark Kemball 30/Jul/77 Solo
jon 24/Apr/76 Lead
with Elaine
Hidden 04/Sep/75 2nd
Mike Owen ?/Sep/75 AltLd O/S
with John Roberts
Bob M ?/Jul/75 2nd
with Bill Wheater
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 28
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set