Restricted Access
One of the more convenient and quick-drying crags in the area. Good sport climbing as well as a reasonable selection of trad routes. The popular routes tend to be polished, especially the starts of those on the Lower Lift.
Whitebeams (a rare species of tree) grow on the crag and are an important feature of the SSSI. Please do not cut any trees on or around the crag without gaining permision first as this could result in access issues in future. If you want to carry out cleaning which involves trees, please contact the BMC access team first through access@thebmc.co.uk.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
There is a tawny owl nesting on "It's Over for Jehovah". Avoide all routes between "Head full of hedda" and "What you think"
Rockfax Description
To layback or jam? The crack and flake sprouting from the top of the block is a fun pitch - if you choose the correct technique. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The compelling open wall immediately right of Canine Crack lives up to expectations. Start as for Canine Crack. Move up onto the pedestal and make the first easy clips. Ascend the wide crack making full use of the welcome borehole; then, at its top, make a tricky pull up right to better holds. Perfect finger slots in the thin crack above lead to more positive holds and a romp up the mini-ramp to a double ring abseil. Six bolt runners.
Gordon A Jenkin, Richard D Jenkin (both led) Emma Phillips 04/Jun/2015.
Ticklists
Wye Valley Salathe Challenge , Orange Spot Lower Wye , CoT Wye Valley Mileage #C2K , 6As with stars near Bristol
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| Tall Oak | 25 Nov, 2021 |
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βeta: First route of the day with Paul K and where was my lay back skills? | ||
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βeta: First route of the day with Paul K and where was my lay back skills? |
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| Jack_T | 23 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Spinning bolt near top | ||
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βeta: Spinning bolt near top |
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| Maryamzsh | 12 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: WATCH OUT! Some of the nuts are not fully tight! (was there on July 12, 2020) Tried to tighten it with my hand on the way down but not sure how good that is! | ||
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βeta: WATCH OUT! Some of the nuts are not fully tight! (was there on July 12, 2020) Tried to tighten it with my hand on the way down but not sure how good that is! |
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| OliverR17 | 5 Jan, 2020 |
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βeta: IF ANY HARDWARE REMAINS ON THIS ROUTE, please pass on to South Western Ambulance Service or message me. | βeta? | |
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βeta: IF ANY HARDWARE REMAINS ON THIS ROUTE, please pass on to South Western Ambulance Service or message me. |
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| ShakyDog | 1 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Footholds at the start are getting rather polished | ||
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βeta: Footholds at the start are getting rather polished |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wyndcliff Quarry
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