Out of bounds during public and school holidays, please see Martin Crocker guide pg 10, or BMC RAD, + the link is at the top of routes list on here.

Three pitches: F6b, F6b+, F6b+
The first 45m pitch can be split at a 2-bolt belay.
Start below sunset buttress. Take the line of bolts on the far right (looking at crag). at top veer right. belay. Climb right again into groove. make tricky moves up groove and trend right along break. belay on top of pinnacle. take bolts and pegs up the wall in front of you until an awkward traverse left past two bolts and a finish up a chossy groove on to the terrace.
There is a nice steel cable hanging from a tree to the right to belay + ab off.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Cheddar Intermediate, Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Becky's ticklist, The Cheddar Nose, Cheddar

Feedback

UserDateNotes
martinfindlay 7 Sep Show βeta
βeta: There are still two pegs on pitch 4 (just difficult to find) and they've put a new bolt in, so the top section is now fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There are still two pegs on pitch 4 (just difficult to find) and they've put a new bolt in, so the top section is now fine.
simonsnake77 1 May Show βeta
βeta: P4 only has one peg left on it, you need small cans and wires to protect last 8M.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P4 only has one peg left on it, you need small cans and wires to protect last 8M.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
AK 21 Sep AltLd Led 2nd pitch. Awesome route!
with Sam
Led 2nd pitch. Awesome route!
with Sam
rachelcarrie 15 Sep -
Matt Clifton 14 Sep Lead rpt Great
with Helen
Great
with Helen
GunAnnaMathilda 13 Sep 2nd O/S Onsighted/flashed all pitches! Divided pitch one into two. Second pitch was mentally challenging, to say the least. V pleased about climbing them clean, plus it was a lovely day with sun on the last pitch.
Onsighted/flashed all pitches! Divided pitch one into two. Second pitch was mentally challenging, to say the least. V pleased about climbing them clean, plus it was a lovely day with sun on the last pitch.
chrishunt55 7 Sep AltLd O/S Did this with Martin and Pete on Saturday morning. First multipitch sport. What a fine introduction it was! Absolutely awesome climb. Pete did p1, me p2 and Martin p3. Really rate this.
Did this with Martin and Pete on Saturday morning. First multipitch sport. What a fine introduction it was! Absolutely awesome climb. Pete did p1, me p2 and Martin p3. Really rate this.
martinfindlay 7 Sep AltLd O/S Great adventure up the gorge. The top section is fine - you've just got to hunt around a bit for the pegs.
Great adventure up the gorge. The top section is fine - you've just got to hunt around a bit for the pegs.
Adam Henderson 5 Sep AltLd rpt
m.powell02 5 Sep AltLd O/S Pitch 1 and 3. Thoroughly enjoyed this. Timed it perfectly, topping out with the last of the sun.
Pitch 1 and 3. Thoroughly enjoyed this. Timed it perfectly, topping out with the last of the sun.
Martino90 ?Sep Lead dog Led P1 & P3
Led P1 & P3
Dale Comley 9 Jul AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1&3
Lead pitch 1&3
Charlie Low 9 Jul AltLd O/S What a fun little route! Dale ran the first 2 pitches together, so I led P3. Really fun thinky climbing, up and back down in 2 hours after work.
What a fun little route! Dale ran the first 2 pitches together, so I led P3. Really fun thinky climbing, up and back down in 2 hours after work.
simonsnake77 27 Jun AltLd rpt 4th time on this route, this time chaperoning first time multipitch climber Roger. Decided to split first pitch and swing leads to the Utopia ledge. Finally got all three pitches clean! Lovely evening and a pleasure to share with Roger who kept his head and handles the rope work brilliantly.
with Roger Shaplett
4th time on this route, this time chaperoning first time multipitch climber Roger. Decided to split first pitch and swing leads to the Utopia ledge. Finally got all three pitches clean! Lovely evening and a pleasure to share with Roger who kept his head and handles the rope work brilliantly.
with Roger Shaplett
PalfreyN 21 Jun AltLd
with EBeck
with EBeck
EBeck 21 Jun AltLd Lead P1 and P3
Lead P1 and P3
slowmotion 14 May AltLd O/S Nice little outing after work. Summer is here hooray. P1 and P3
with Bramble's owner
Nice little outing after work. Summer is here hooray. P1 and P3
with Bramble's owner
simonsnake77 30 Apr AltLd dog Third time lucky and still no clean ascent, fluffed P1 on lead at the sharp hold again. Then climbed really well all the way to the top of P4 before a stupid slip. Great lead by Ben on P4, which requires some small cams and a set of small wires.
with Ben Symonds
Third time lucky and still no clean ascent, fluffed P1 on lead at the sharp hold again. Then climbed really well all the way to the top of P4 before a stupid slip. Great lead by Ben on P4, which requires some small cams and a set of small wires.
with Ben Symonds
Von T 18 Apr AltLd O/S First day in Cheddar, first multi pitch. Led top two pitches.
with GraMc
First day in Cheddar, first multi pitch. Led top two pitches.
with GraMc
Hidden 31 Mar AltLd
Hidden 30 Mar 2nd dog
Hidden 26 Mar AltLd rpt
dabbott345 24 Mar AltLd O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 24 Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Feb AltLd O/S
just one more 23 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt Removed wobbly peg on top pitch by hand, be a bit wary!
with Luke
Removed wobbly peg on top pitch by hand, be a bit wary!
with Luke
Luke_92 23 Oct, 2018 2nd β Steve kindly lead the whole thing, as I was after a nice easy day. Superb!
Steve kindly lead the whole thing, as I was after a nice easy day. Superb!
Alas.d.air21 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome day out
Awesome day out
Adam Henderson 26 Sep, 2018 Lead
with Juliet , Jonny Gilbert
with Juliet , Jonny Gilbert
Hidden 20 Sep, 2018 AltLd O/S
Kevin_Daniel_Garvey 9 Sep, 2018 Lead Fantastic intro to sport multi-pitch. Testing, but nice flowing moves for the most parts and lots variation. Classic limestone moves of high feet and big pulls. Led pitches 1, 3 and 4. Hung on quick draw on pitch 3 once, and too rest at crux of pitch 4. Could get clean I think if I tried the moves gain. I wasn't sure about the rusty peg on the crux of pitch 3, so I whacked a cam in next to it :D. And a cam about the crux of pitch 4 where the pegs start again and it gets a little run out. The pegs are super rusty, but look like they aren't going anywhere! Confused with belay point at the very top. Unless I was missing something, no belay bolts, so slung of a chunky tree and belayed off that. Take a 240cm sling if you wish to take that approach. Take care at very top - lots of lose stuff. Twigs, mud, rocks and dead birds.
with Cloughy
Fantastic intro to sport multi-pitch. Testing, but nice flowing moves for the most parts and lots variation. Classic limestone moves of high feet and big pulls. Led pitches 1, 3 and 4. Hung on quick draw on pitch 3 once, and too rest at crux of pitch 4. Could get clean I think if I tried the moves gain. I wasn't sure about the rusty peg on the crux of pitch 3, so I whacked a cam in next to it :D. And a cam about the crux of pitch 4 where the pegs start again and it gets a little run out. The pegs are super rusty, but look like they aren't going anywhere! Confused with belay point at the very top. Unless I was missing something, no belay bolts, so slung of a chunky tree and belayed off that. Take a 240cm sling if you wish to take that approach. Take care at very top - lots of lose stuff. Twigs, mud, rocks and dead birds.
with Cloughy
chockstone 1 Sep, 2018 AltLd dog Hung on one draw after crux bulge on final pitch.
with Karl Stockham
Hung on one draw after crux bulge on final pitch.
with Karl Stockham
Stamper 21 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
vickydavies 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Followed Andy up P1 and 2 combine to get to the belay for the sunset score - such a stunning location!
with Wise
Followed Andy up P1 and 2 combine to get to the belay for the sunset score - such a stunning location!
with Wise
Fakey Rocks 28 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S As 4 pitches. Advise taking a 60cm loop of accessory cord, or thin sling, for a 30cm thread piece....cleared the ivy in the 3rd pitch breaks traverse (2nd pitch of 3 in MC guide), enabling an obvious thread to be seen + used (got some 6 or 7mm in), placed after passing it, used a twig to pull it through, aramid would b ideal, to protect the 2nd from crashing into the wall, like the guide, + logs, says can easily happen! Paul lead p2. P1, 3 + 4 got hard moves, perhaps last is a bit easier? but more sustained and exciting! Took about 4hrs for 4 pitches, can easily improve this now. Moved some large rocks away from the edge at top. Big steel cable hanging on tree to right to belay + ab off.
As 4 pitches. Advise taking a 60cm loop of accessory cord, or thin sling, for a 30cm thread piece....cleared the ivy in the 3rd pitch breaks traverse (2nd pitch of 3 in MC guide), enabling an obvious thread to be seen + used (got some 6 or 7mm in), placed after passing it, used a twig to pull it through, aramid would b ideal, to protect the 2nd from crashing into the wall, like the guide, + logs, says can easily happen! Paul lead p2. P1, 3 + 4 got hard moves, perhaps last is a bit easier? but more sustained and exciting! Took about 4hrs for 4 pitches, can easily improve this now. Moved some large rocks away from the edge at top. Big steel cable hanging on tree to right to belay + ab off.
oli87 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S led last 2 pitches
led last 2 pitches
springfall2008 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd dog Led the first half of pitch 1 and pitch 2, ran out of time and we abseiled out rather than climbing pitch 3. Shouldn't have split the first pitch as the hanging belay was akward! Tricky moves over the overhang on the first pitch and up the corner of the stuck block on the second pitch. Fantastic route, must go back and finish it one day.
Led the first half of pitch 1 and pitch 2, ran out of time and we abseiled out rather than climbing pitch 3. Shouldn't have split the first pitch as the hanging belay was akward! Tricky moves over the overhang on the first pitch and up the corner of the stuck block on the second pitch. Fantastic route, must go back and finish it one day.
J1_TOV 16 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Did P1 and P2 in one. Sweet all the way with P3 being my favourite although my 2nd fell on the traverse and hit the groove below quite hard (perhaps take a thread to better protect it). Belayed my 2nd on the last pitch anchored off the tree.
Did P1 and P2 in one. Sweet all the way with P3 being my favourite although my 2nd fell on the traverse and hit the groove below quite hard (perhaps take a thread to better protect it). Belayed my 2nd on the last pitch anchored off the tree.
hfotheri 16 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1&3. Pitch 1 is the hardest more like 6b+ and pitch 3 more like 6b.
with simon
Lead pitch 1&3. Pitch 1 is the hardest more like 6b+ and pitch 3 more like 6b.
with simon
Brian H 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt Hardest move seemed to be on first pitch.
Hardest move seemed to be on first pitch.
alice fuller ?Jun, 2018 AltLd β Kind of Brian to say alt leads...he led all the hard bits. Great to climb to the top of the gorge.. some good moves
with Brian H
Kind of Brian to say alt leads...he led all the hard bits. Great to climb to the top of the gorge.. some good moves
with Brian H
Tom Corras 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S P1 and P2
P1 and P2
Hambo 14 May, 2018 AltLd
with Dan M
with Dan M
EllieWoods 12 May, 2018 2nd rpt
with Alex
with Alex
Hidden 26 Apr, 2018 2nd
simonsnake77 25 Apr, 2018 AltLd rpt Led P1 and annoyingly messed up the crux with the sharp hold catching me out, but recovered with a clean lead on P3. Ben cruises the easy P2, and climbed really well on P4 he would have it clean if he didn’t get tangled getting a sling sorted to extend the nut he had placed (because we’d run out of quick draws!) and then pop off. Great finish abseiling down in the dark and just in time for a pint in the White Hart with the gang before closing.
with Ben Symonds
Led P1 and annoyingly messed up the crux with the sharp hold catching me out, but recovered with a clean lead on P3. Ben cruises the easy P2, and climbed really well on P4 he would have it clean if he didn’t get tangled getting a sling sorted to extend the nut he had placed (because we’d run out of quick draws!) and then pop off. Great finish abseiling down in the dark and just in time for a pint in the White Hart with the gang before closing.
with Ben Symonds
petecallaghan 16 Apr, 2018 AltLd rpt Lead P2. Made the mistake of hanging in the finger slot of the crux of P1. Very uncomfortable
Lead P2. Made the mistake of hanging in the finger slot of the crux of P1. Very uncomfortable
EllieWoods 16 Apr, 2018 AltLd rpt
Adam Henderson 16 Apr, 2018 Lead Lead pitches 1-3. Bailed on last pitch due to nightfall
Lead pitches 1-3. Bailed on last pitch due to nightfall
Hidden ??, 2018 -
kenneM 29 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Chris
with Chris
superturbo 14 Oct, 2017 AltLd
with ADF
with ADF
badgerjockey 19 Sep, 2017 AltLd 3 pitches. Led p1&3. Stunning mild evening after work. Quiet gorge, no wind. Just us and the ticks. Felt like a holiday route until the horrible nettly turf scramble at the top reminded me where I was. Thought all pitches were about low 6b+. Really didn't get the top of p2 - Is it all a balancy traverse above the break or do you step over and bridge the pinnacle?? Had to rest to think it through.
with rjohnn
3 pitches. Led p1&3. Stunning mild evening after work. Quiet gorge, no wind. Just us and the ticks. Felt like a holiday route until the horrible nettly turf scramble at the top reminded me where I was. Thought all pitches were about low 6b+. Really didn't get the top of p2 - Is it all a balancy traverse above the break or do you step over and bridge the pinnacle?? Had to rest to think it through.
with rjohnn
Hidden 2 Sep, 2017 Lead rpt
FilthyFlamingo 2 Sep, 2017 2nd
petecallaghan 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd rpt Lead P2. Found crux of P1 fine this time. Practice makes perfect
with Tom Scott Clarke, EllieWoods
Lead P2. Found crux of P1 fine this time. Practice makes perfect
with Tom Scott Clarke, EllieWoods
EllieWoods 26 Jun, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Tom Scott-Clarke , petecallaghan
with Tom Scott-Clarke , petecallaghan
Hidden 21 Jun, 2017 2nd
evanstone 19 Jun, 2017 Lead β
kmcmonagle 19 Jun, 2017 AltLd
Na0mi.w105 19 Jun, 2017 AltLd dnf First multi-pitch. Last pitch abandoned due to heat and exhaustion.
First multi-pitch. Last pitch abandoned due to heat and exhaustion.
Tim_C7 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ross Stephenson
with Ross Stephenson
Jimbob64 16 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1 and 3
with Strife
Lead pitch 1 and 3
with Strife
Strife 16 Jun, 2017 AltLd dog Amazing route. Sadly I was lacking in commitment and finesse. Two rests on the rope.
Amazing route. Sadly I was lacking in commitment and finesse. Two rests on the rope.
tommccluskey 12 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Amar
with Amar
Hidden 11 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
emma1987 11 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with lukey13
with lukey13
james n 10 Jun, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Lisa P
with Lisa P
EllieWoods 14 May, 2017 AltLd rpt Speed ascent - 52 minutes car to car 😃
with pete belfield
Speed ascent - 52 minutes car to car 😃
with pete belfield
AlexRenshaw 14 May, 2017 Lead
with Ted Lister
with Ted Lister
petecallaghan 8 May, 2017 AltLd rpt Dominic lead P1 (that crux move is still hard). I lead P2 and P3. P3 feels like the most relaxed pitch of the three. Great conditions and lovely place to finish the evening. The top out was clean and generally free of vegetation. The rusty peg ladder at the top was easy to find
Dominic lead P1 (that crux move is still hard). I lead P2 and P3. P3 feels like the most relaxed pitch of the three. Great conditions and lovely place to finish the evening. The top out was clean and generally free of vegetation. The rusty peg ladder at the top was easy to find
EllieWoods 8 May, 2017 Lead rpt
with Adam
with Adam
Dominic Acland 8 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P1, made it, but only just! Pete did Ps 2 & 3.
Led P1, made it, but only just! Pete did Ps 2 & 3.
Adam Henderson 8 May, 2017 2nd
with Ellie Woods
with Ellie Woods
simonsnake77 6 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Split P1, and got bottom and top p2 clean. One slip on tricky crux of p3 above the gulley, great lead by Ben Symonds. Lead p4 and got it clean apart from one rest.
Split P1, and got bottom and top p2 clean. One slip on tricky crux of p3 above the gulley, great lead by Ben Symonds. Lead p4 and got it clean apart from one rest.
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
Adam Henderson 12 Mar, 2017 2nd
georgechapman 11 Mar, 2017 Lead dog
jcking231 26 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S Been on the list for a while and didn't disappoint! Excellent mixture of climbing styles. Stuck the crux move at the top of the second pitch...but only just! Very much appreciated Louis agreeing to second me
with Louis Raettig
Been on the list for a while and didn't disappoint! Excellent mixture of climbing styles. Stuck the crux move at the top of the second pitch...but only just! Very much appreciated Louis agreeing to second me
with Louis Raettig
Adam Hill 7 Nov, 2016 AltLd
with Pete
with Pete
Adam Hill 12 Oct, 2016 2nd
Hayley loves climbing 9 Oct, 2016 2nd β
Adam Hill 7 Oct, 2016 2nd
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
seabrook 8 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf Pulled a toaster sized chunk out at left a couple of moves up. What's left above it is wobbly. Tricky crux but there's a hidden jug to the right and up from the first crack/pocket. Very cool shelf section afterwards. Got up to the top of P1 but mate couldn't get over the crux so made a nasty ab down in the dark. Seems I left a quickdraw up there. Arete beyond the second belay looks dead interesting, keen to go back. With hindsight I'd stay at the first belay whilst partner makes the crux - rope stretch dropped her rather further than necessary at each fall.
Pulled a toaster sized chunk out at left a couple of moves up. What's left above it is wobbly. Tricky crux but there's a hidden jug to the right and up from the first crack/pocket. Very cool shelf section afterwards. Got up to the top of P1 but mate couldn't get over the crux so made a nasty ab down in the dark. Seems I left a quickdraw up there. Arete beyond the second belay looks dead interesting, keen to go back. With hindsight I'd stay at the first belay whilst partner makes the crux - rope stretch dropped her rather further than necessary at each fall.
TommyKips 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd dnf Got to the 2nd anchor at the end of the official pitch one and it rained! Tried to outlast but got cold and slippery so ab'd out. We'll be back soon...
Got to the 2nd anchor at the end of the official pitch one and it rained! Tried to outlast but got cold and slippery so ab'd out. We'll be back soon...
Tom courtiour 11 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
sus 11 Jun, 2016 AltLd
jhobbs 23 May, 2016 2nd O/S What an amazing route!! Did in glorious evening sunshine. Pete led it all and did in 4 pitches. Really pleased to climb it clean. Found one hard move on the first pitch and again a short link of moves on the final pitch when pulling over the traverse on polished fingery slopers. So pleased to hold it!!
with Charlie chambers, Pete Belfield
What an amazing route!! Did in glorious evening sunshine. Pete led it all and did in 4 pitches. Really pleased to climb it clean. Found one hard move on the first pitch and again a short link of moves on the final pitch when pulling over the traverse on polished fingery slopers. So pleased to hold it!!
with Charlie chambers, Pete Belfield
tonevert 14 May, 2016 Lead O/S
with Paloma
with Paloma
Borden 1 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
petecallaghan 1 May, 2016 AltLd rpt Clean lead of P1, tho I dropped a qd on Scott. Still found the crux move strenuous and clipping the bolt v awkward. Scott lead P2, and I lead P3.
with Borden
Clean lead of P1, tho I dropped a qd on Scott. Still found the crux move strenuous and clipping the bolt v awkward. Scott lead P2, and I lead P3.
with Borden
tskelhon ?May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 2 Apr, 2016 AltLd rpt I tried to lead P1, but could not make the clip on the crux. At least it was dry this time. Pete and Charlie split P1, with Pete leading the first half. I found P2 and P3 a grade easier than P1, and would grade them at UK 5c (6b+?), 5a (6a?), 5b (6b?).
with Pete Belfield, Charlie Chambers
I tried to lead P1, but could not make the clip on the crux. At least it was dry this time. Pete and Charlie split P1, with Pete leading the first half. I found P2 and P3 a grade easier than P1, and would grade them at UK 5c (6b+?), 5a (6a?), 5b (6b?).
with Pete Belfield, Charlie Chambers
Hidden 26 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Feb, 2016 AltLd
Jackislav 15 Feb, 2016 AltLd P1 + P3, bit wet in the middle but great fun
P1 + P3, bit wet in the middle but great fun
petecallaghan 6 Dec, 2015 2nd dog The seepage on P1 made the crux much harder - I ended up aiding over it. P2 was fine, but on P3 the rain came in and Pete took a 15m fall. He then had to aid up on small wires before we ab'd out in the drenching drizzle.
with Pete Belfield
The seepage on P1 made the crux much harder - I ended up aiding over it. P2 was fine, but on P3 the rain came in and Pete took a 15m fall. He then had to aid up on small wires before we ab'd out in the drenching drizzle.
with Pete Belfield
ben.phillips 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitches 0.5 and 3. Started following another line of bolts going high on pitch 3 and then had to down climb to get back on track. Really good route!
Led pitches 0.5 and 3. Started following another line of bolts going high on pitch 3 and then had to down climb to get back on track. Really good route!
Benjaminblanc 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd Ben Phillips lead pitches 1+2. I lead pitch 3 but had a cheeky pull on gear on the step across. Great route but nasty top out. I finished on a bolt to the left before going over the top, could have done with extending that one. Look out for ticks up there btw.......
Ben Phillips lead pitches 1+2. I lead pitch 3 but had a cheeky pull on gear on the step across. Great route but nasty top out. I finished on a bolt to the left before going over the top, could have done with extending that one. Look out for ticks up there btw.......
Hidden 7 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Phil Murray 27 Jun, 2015 AltLd rpt SPeed ascent record for us - 85 mins. Brilliant.
with Steve Wright
SPeed ascent record for us - 85 mins. Brilliant.
with Steve Wright
Holister 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Great views
with simonpearson, andy
Great views
with simonpearson, andy
Kap 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd Lead 1st (45m) & 3rd pitch
Lead 1st (45m) & 3rd pitch
SeanSmith 21 Jun, 2015 AltLd
with Kap
with Kap
EllieWoods 16 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with pete belfield
with pete belfield
Hidden 16 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Tristan.Stricker 11 Jun, 2015 Lead dog Good. Soft 6b+. Messed up the traverse by going too low. Top pitch is the best
Good. Soft 6b+. Messed up the traverse by going too low. Top pitch is the best
patrickcd 12 May, 2015 AltLd O/S First pitch has hardest moves.
with Yura
First pitch has hardest moves.
with Yura
Caspian Johnson 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Nick Jones
with Nick Jones
Paul Baller 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
with matt stevens
Hidden 26 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
bonelessivar 22 Apr, 2015 Lead dog Led all 3. Fell on the 1st and 2nd pitches. Bit gutted as neither are that hard. Think I traversed too high on pitch 2. Great route.
Led all 3. Fell on the 1st and 2nd pitches. Bit gutted as neither are that hard. Think I traversed too high on pitch 2. Great route.
wurzelinzummerset 22 Apr, 2015 2nd dog Evening climb so just tried to get up it as quick as I could, which included a bit of draw-pulling on the harder bits. One definite crux on each pitch, most of the remainder was fairly straightforward.
Evening climb so just tried to get up it as quick as I could, which included a bit of draw-pulling on the harder bits. One definite crux on each pitch, most of the remainder was fairly straightforward.
jimothy718 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
i_a_coops 3 Nov, 2014 Lead rpt
with Jenny
with Jenny
kennythescot 13 Oct, 2014 Lead dog
with Luke Robinson
with Luke Robinson
philipbwilliams 12 Oct, 2014 2nd
with Tanya, Steve Wright
with Tanya, Steve Wright
youwillfindjimbo 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S
with dan ely
with dan ely
leobold ?Oct, 2014 Lead dog
with Matt Davis
with Matt Davis
PalfreyN 23 Sep, 2014 AltLd RP
Tru 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Fun climb top pitch is definitely the best. Make sure to use furthest belay to the right on pitch one. Asked Rory to be my best man at the top.
with rxmac
Fun climb top pitch is definitely the best. Make sure to use furthest belay to the right on pitch one. Asked Rory to be my best man at the top.
with rxmac
halfwaythere 21 Sep, 2014 2nd dog Seconded this; fell on the second pitch as moved across to belay and third pitch on traverse as went left to join another, bolted line near the top. Thoroughly enjoyed it.
with john
Seconded this; fell on the second pitch as moved across to belay and third pitch on traverse as went left to join another, bolted line near the top. Thoroughly enjoyed it.
with john
johncoxmysteriously 21 Sep, 2014 Lead Nice - strange grades, though. The second pitch is never 6b+ and the first one (6a+ in the guide) is harder than either of the other two. The 'weirdly jammed ledge' on pitch two moves - not sure if it's supposed to - but didn't actually fall out.
Nice - strange grades, though. The second pitch is never 6b+ and the first one (6a+ in the guide) is harder than either of the other two. The 'weirdly jammed ledge' on pitch two moves - not sure if it's supposed to - but didn't actually fall out.
felixizzy 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S 1st & 3rd Pitch.
with Mike
1st & 3rd Pitch.
with Mike
Hidden 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 8 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with steve read
with steve read
brices 29 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt
Rob Morgan 25 Jun, 2014 2nd dog
James Marshall 20 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt started at 5:30, topped out at 10 pm !
with jenny & annie
started at 5:30, topped out at 10 pm !
with jenny & annie
luke harvie 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S actually fluffed the crux on the first pitch - putting that down as a warm up! lead p2+3 clean. great route, great views. p2 i'd say was only a 6b+ if you climb above the shelf that runs level with the terrace - very trick balance traverse then. easier if you step across to the break earlier.
with Digga
actually fluffed the crux on the first pitch - putting that down as a warm up! lead p2+3 clean. great route, great views. p2 i'd say was only a 6b+ if you climb above the shelf that runs level with the terrace - very trick balance traverse then. easier if you step across to the break earlier.
with Digga
Digga 15 Jun, 2014 2nd dog Peeled off the tricky bulge crux on P1 and fell in the chimney last move of P2 (luckily leader clipped first bolt on Sunsations to protect this). Awesome route though, I'll be back. Great views, good exposure and good abseil off too!
Peeled off the tricky bulge crux on P1 and fell in the chimney last move of P2 (luckily leader clipped first bolt on Sunsations to protect this). Awesome route though, I'll be back. Great views, good exposure and good abseil off too!
magicmartin 13 Apr, 2014 2nd dnf Perry lead this and I came up 2nd with Zane. The first pitch (Missing first bolt belay) Wasn't too bad at all but the 2nd crux pitch I REALLY struggled with and ending up pulling on gear. It was late so we Abseiled down from the terrace. One for another day!!
with Perry Adams, Zane_18
Perry lead this and I came up 2nd with Zane. The first pitch (Missing first bolt belay) Wasn't too bad at all but the 2nd crux pitch I REALLY struggled with and ending up pulling on gear. It was late so we Abseiled down from the terrace. One for another day!!
with Perry Adams, Zane_18
Kap 12 Apr, 2014 Lead dnf Lead first two pitches clean, backed off the third due to time.
Lead first two pitches clean, backed off the third due to time.
chrisweight 16 Mar, 2014 AltLd dog Led the first pitch, messed up the crux sequence and peeled off, rest of it was clean. Mark led the last two pitches in damned good style. 6b+ and 2 stars seems about right. Fine climb, especially worth doing if you add a pitch-black ab-off with headtorches left at the bottom of the crag ;)
with Mark Challoner
Led the first pitch, messed up the crux sequence and peeled off, rest of it was clean. Mark led the last two pitches in damned good style. 6b+ and 2 stars seems about right. Fine climb, especially worth doing if you add a pitch-black ab-off with headtorches left at the bottom of the crag ;)
with Mark Challoner
budchawla 15 Mar, 2014 AltLd Led P1 - messed up the crux. The rest was pretty smooth apart from slight flutters at the P3 crux. P2 felt soft. Fun route, well worth it - just under 3 hours round trip. Damn nettles.
Led P1 - messed up the crux. The rest was pretty smooth apart from slight flutters at the P3 crux. P2 felt soft. Fun route, well worth it - just under 3 hours round trip. Damn nettles.
Tommyads ??, 2014 -
RileyJ 8 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Nick Russell 26 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S Led the top two pitches. A great route with awesome exposure on P3
with Jack
Led the top two pitches. A great route with awesome exposure on P3
with Jack
Richezzz 25 Jun, 2013 2nd O/S amazing climb, a really nice climb to end the day think we did it in just under 3 hours or just over :)
amazing climb, a really nice climb to end the day think we did it in just under 3 hours or just over :)
markfromstoke 19 May, 2013 Lead
Norman_P_W 19 May, 2013 AltLd
markfromstoke 24 Apr, 2013 - Pitch 1 and 2
Pitch 1 and 2
Norman_P_W 24 Apr, 2013 -
Didymus 20 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Marcus
with Marcus
beardy mike ??, 2013 -
Hidden 15 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
MikeC59 7 Sep, 2012 Lead First two pitches only, lowered from Utopia terrace due to visit to osteopath day before! Bulge on first pitch needs thinking followed by bold approach I found.
with Kuang
First two pitches only, lowered from Utopia terrace due to visit to osteopath day before! Bulge on first pitch needs thinking followed by bold approach I found.
with Kuang
tommytuffa 5 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with Libby
with Libby
Jeromeg 5 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S Led all pitches, awesome but rank, rank top-out. Any pegs or whatever to the right are well overgrown with Ivy
Led all pitches, awesome but rank, rank top-out. Any pegs or whatever to the right are well overgrown with Ivy
Pippa 19 Jun, 2012 AltLd
mountain_jay 19 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S lead 1&3. Tricky crux on 1st pitch for 6a.
with Pippa
lead 1&3. Tricky crux on 1st pitch for 6a.
with Pippa
James Marshall ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Gareth Bowen 27 May, 2012 Lead dog Fell at the end of P2 with a silly error in route reading. P1 and 3 onsight.
with Matt Hawes
Fell at the end of P2 with a silly error in route reading. P1 and 3 onsight.
with Matt Hawes
Hidden 25 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
MarcT ?May, 2012 Lead dog Lead all 3 pitches. Waved to open topped bus at top of first. Clipped a rusty piton at the top of 3rd because of lack of bolts and, well, why not. Small shower a couple of times.
with Duncan S
Lead all 3 pitches. Waved to open topped bus at top of first. Clipped a rusty piton at the top of 3rd because of lack of bolts and, well, why not. Small shower a couple of times.
with Duncan S
markfromstoke 15 Apr, 2012 2nd dog
with ian d f
with ian d f
ian d f 15 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
grp 30 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Nov, 2011 AltLd
Justin T 6 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S P1&3
P1&3
Hidden 6 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S
robertcunningham86 15 Oct, 2011 2nd dog Tim Howell
Tim Howell
paddymitton 2 Oct, 2011 Lead Bloody brilliant fun route.
Bloody brilliant fun route.
robbie Warke 25 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S Nice
with Jamie Parfrey
Nice
with Jamie Parfrey
drcorbasisgod 11 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
Luke Dawson 15 Jun, 2011 -
benkelsey 28 May, 2011 AltLd rpt Lead the easy pitch (2) having done it before I let Remus have the good ones. Had work for 9 hours and finished at 10 pm. Picked Remus up at 11 and started by just gone 11.30 and finished by a tidy 3 a.m up and down. Went off route on the first pitch which resulted in some adventures bramble bashing in the dark.. interesting lead. Night climbing is the best way to do routes for sure, although footwork is fairly tricky. Nice calm leads from Remus all the way. another 10 hours work starting early this morning... :/
with remus
Lead the easy pitch (2) having done it before I let Remus have the good ones. Had work for 9 hours and finished at 10 pm. Picked Remus up at 11 and started by just gone 11.30 and finished by a tidy 3 a.m up and down. Went off route on the first pitch which resulted in some adventures bramble bashing in the dark.. interesting lead. Night climbing is the best way to do routes for sure, although footwork is fairly tricky. Nice calm leads from Remus all the way. another 10 hours work starting early this morning... :/
with remus
Hidden 27 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
BenRyle 21 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Ant Parkes 21 May, 2011 Lead dog
with BenRyle
with BenRyle
CharlotteMilner 21 May, 2011 Lead dnf
just one more 18 May, 2011 Lead
with tony l
with tony l
hutster781 18 May, 2011 AltLd dnf seconded pitch one and rested on crux (bulge with sharp finger slot) .Lead pitch two clean but shakey . Didn't finish third due to rain . conditions were damp to wet
with new rope, steve barnard
seconded pitch one and rested on crux (bulge with sharp finger slot) .Lead pitch two clean but shakey . Didn't finish third due to rain . conditions were damp to wet
with new rope, steve barnard
Hidden 7 May, 2011 2nd dog
Pan Ron 16 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Surprisingly tough. F6b+ seems fair. P1 was interesting and fun and P2 can be a little sketchy moving up to the belay stance. P3 took focus; no ring anchors on the rock, rather topping out on to the grass to a good tree anchor - results in a substantial run out from the last bolt, through two rusty pegs, and up on to the grass.
with DrGav
Surprisingly tough. F6b+ seems fair. P1 was interesting and fun and P2 can be a little sketchy moving up to the belay stance. P3 took focus; no ring anchors on the rock, rather topping out on to the grass to a good tree anchor - results in a substantial run out from the last bolt, through two rusty pegs, and up on to the grass.
with DrGav
DrGav 16 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Good fun. Quite cruxy on all 3 pitches (did it in four). Think 6b, 6b+,6b+ is fair. Both the 6b+ pitches had their cruxes on traverse sections, although the final pitch well-protected for the second at that point. Both took some working out! The final pitch had a bit of a runout at the end with 2 rusty pegs providing some mild comfort...
with Pan Ron
Good fun. Quite cruxy on all 3 pitches (did it in four). Think 6b, 6b+,6b+ is fair. Both the 6b+ pitches had their cruxes on traverse sections, although the final pitch well-protected for the second at that point. Both took some working out! The final pitch had a bit of a runout at the end with 2 rusty pegs providing some mild comfort...
with Pan Ron
Hidden 8 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
willbatho 26 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
philmcf ?Mar, 2011 AltLd dog Lead 1st and 2nd. First ever multipich, great climb!
Lead 1st and 2nd. First ever multipich, great climb!
Pete Rigby ?Feb, 2011 AltLd Freezing cold in the middle of the night. Very good fun!
with Jim Tan
Freezing cold in the middle of the night. Very good fun!
with Jim Tan
_m.cox_ ?Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
arandall 6 Oct, 2010 2nd dog
benkelsey 6 Oct, 2010 Lead Fantastic Climbing - dry and almost sunny. weirdly the first pitch felt the hardest. Had an interesting moment with Alex falling just before the pinnacle - fortunately he left in the draw first!! having a slack belay I headed out away from the pinnacle. Great moves on all of the pitches - exposed but not in a bad way. Abbed down in 6! as we onlt had one 50meter rope, very slick though and got down in under half an hour.
Fantastic Climbing - dry and almost sunny. weirdly the first pitch felt the hardest. Had an interesting moment with Alex falling just before the pinnacle - fortunately he left in the draw first!! having a slack belay I headed out away from the pinnacle. Great moves on all of the pitches - exposed but not in a bad way. Abbed down in 6! as we onlt had one 50meter rope, very slick though and got down in under half an hour.
Hidden 2 Oct, 2010 2nd dog
mrtom 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mike Stephenson, Mike Moss
with Mike Stephenson, Mike Moss
jacobjacob 12 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S lead pitch 2, lots of fun. With Jenni and Ian.
lead pitch 2, lots of fun. With Jenni and Ian.
thomb 23 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jun, 2010 2nd
richiebongo 19 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
with Nick Smith
richsmithinbristol 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Jim Brooke 19 Jun, 2010 AltLd
Leeds 17 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Pippa 17 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
DorsetGareth 17 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Pip lead first and fourth, I lead second & third pitch as one to pass other climbers (wouldn't recommend due to rope drag!). Great route, esp last pitch.
with Pippa
Pip lead first and fourth, I lead second & third pitch as one to pass other climbers (wouldn't recommend due to rope drag!). Great route, esp last pitch.
with Pippa
Hidden ?Jun, 2010 -
Dr Caterpillar 21 May, 2010 AltLd dog
with heallan
with heallan
Hidden 21 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
Dan Jenkin 15 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
with Gordon Jenkin
Neil McA 5 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Matt bengey
with Matt bengey
Hidden 28 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S
Campbell.D ?Apr, 2010 AltLd dog first multi pitch climb enjoyed so much onsited 2nd pitch. need to re do with no falls soon
with Grant, Sash.C
first multi pitch climb enjoyed so much onsited 2nd pitch. need to re do with no falls soon
with Grant, Sash.C
Phil Murray 14 Mar, 2010 2nd dog So cold had to take a break on top pitch! Very thin...
with Fenella, Steve Wright
So cold had to take a break on top pitch! Very thin...
with Fenella, Steve Wright
brices ??, 2010 Lead
WillRees ??, 2010 2nd β My first climb at Avon
with Tom White, Gav
My first climb at Avon
with Tom White, Gav
Tom Heslam ??, 2010 Lead rpt
Rosea Day ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Heslam
with Thomas Heslam
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Paul Bowen 18 Oct, 2009 AltLd O/S me p1&3 john p2
with John James
me p1&3 john p2
with John James
Hidden 1 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S
jlgoddard 28 Sep, 2009 2nd β first pitched route, awesome!!!
first pitched route, awesome!!!
andy dunn 24 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S J led P1, I led P2 & P3 If you don't remember a set of wires then you're faced with a fairly run out section on pitch 3. Really enjoyed the route!
with J
J led P1, I led P2 & P3 If you don't remember a set of wires then you're faced with a fairly run out section on pitch 3. Really enjoyed the route!
with J
tobydunford 5 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 5 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Bitmead
with Andrew Bitmead
Hidden 4 Jul, 2009 Lead rpt
Jack R-N 16 Jun, 2009 AltLd β
with James
with James
andybenham 13 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Red pointed 1st pitch after falling last year seconding it in the rain. Clean second on second pitch Led third pitch onsight. Awsome route. All pitches good and all have an exciting crux move or two ... the traverse at the top of the corner on pitch three is especially memorable
with Gareth
Red pointed 1st pitch after falling last year seconding it in the rain. Clean second on second pitch Led third pitch onsight. Awsome route. All pitches good and all have an exciting crux move or two ... the traverse at the top of the corner on pitch three is especially memorable
with Gareth
Gareth 13 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1 last year. Pitch 2 by me, pitch 3 by Andy.
Lead pitch 1 last year. Pitch 2 by me, pitch 3 by Andy.
Tim M 12 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S P1 only
P1 only
Paz 21 May, 2009 Lead dnf P1 only.
with TS2
P1 only.
with TS2
richsmithinbristol ?May, 2009 AltLd
with billb
with billb
billb ?May, 2009 AltLd O/S
Tom Heslam ??, 2009 Lead rpt
A-dog ??, 2009 -
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead dog
chockstone ?Oct, 2008 AltLd dog pitch 1/2 lead clean onsight. pitch 3 lead, hung on gear once. pitch 4 seconded clean no falls.
with Eric Herring
pitch 1/2 lead clean onsight. pitch 3 lead, hung on gear once. pitch 4 seconded clean no falls.
with Eric Herring
Hidden 24 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
Chubbard 21 Sep, 2008 2nd rpt
with C Godfrey
with C Godfrey
SamStokes 21 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S Pitch 1 then moved across to Paradise
with Alex Harper
Pitch 1 then moved across to Paradise
with Alex Harper
Paz 20 Sep, 2008 AltLd rpt Lead P1
Lead P1
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
ericinbristol ?Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S S P1 (L P1 in 04/11), S P2, L P3.
with Tom
S P1 (L P1 in 04/11), S P2, L P3.
with Tom
just one more 29 Jun, 2008 Lead
with tim b
with tim b
Hidden 25 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
JimR 13 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Charles H
with Charles H
Chubbard 13 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S awesome!
with JimR
awesome!
with JimR
John Southworth 7 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Jason Parker
with Jason Parker
Dunthemall 19 May, 2008 2nd O/S
Kev Little ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Marti999 11 Mar, 2007 Lead
steve taylor 11 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S Led middle pitch - excellent climbing all the way, and hard all the way too.
Led middle pitch - excellent climbing all the way, and hard all the way too.
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Fat Tim 11 Mar, 2006 Lead O/S I lead all the pitches
with pencilled in, Mark kauntz
I lead all the pitches
with pencilled in, Mark kauntz
Hidden 11 Mar, 2006 2nd dog
Hidden 4 Mar, 2006 AltLd dog
Tom Heslam ??, 2006 2nd O/S
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
just one more 27 Nov, 2004 Lead
with tim b
with tim b
Hidden 21 Oct, 2004 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ?Feb, 2004 AltLd
with Paz
with Paz
Mark Kemball ?Feb, 2004 AltLd
with Stu Bradbury
with Stu Bradbury
Paz ?Feb, 2004 AltLd O/S
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 41
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set