Three pitches: F6b, F6b+, F6b+
The first 45m pitch can be split at a 2-bolt belay.
Start below sunset buttress. Take the line of bolts on the far right (looking at crag). at top veer right. belay. Climb right again into groove. make tricky moves up groove and trend right along break. belay on top of pinnacle. take bolts and pegs up the wall in front of you until an awkward traverse left past two bolts and a finish up a chossy groove on to the terrace.

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Cheddar Intermediate, Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, Becky's ticklist, The Cheddar Nose.

kenneM 29/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
with Chris
superturbo 14/Oct/17 AltLd
with ADF
badgerjockey 19/Sep/17 AltLd

3 pitches. Led p1&3. Stunning mild evening after work. Quiet gorge, no wind. Just us and the ticks. Felt like a holiday route until the horrible nettly turf scramble at the top reminded me where I was. Thought all pitches were about low 6b+. Really didn't get the top of p2 - Is it all a balancy traverse above the break or do you step over and bridge the pinnacle?? Had to rest to think it through.

with Rich
FilthyFlamingo 02/Sep/17 2nd
petecallaghan 26/Jun/17 AltLd rpt

Lead P2. Found crux of P1 fine this time. Practice makes perfect

with Tom Scott Clarke, Ellie Woods
EllieWoods 26/Jun/17 AltLd rpt
with Tom Scott-Clarke , Pete Callaghan
Sylwiiia 21/Jun/17 2nd

only first pitch 6a+ in the guidebook

with mariusz
kmcmonagle 19/Jun/17 AltLd
Na0mi.w105 19/Jun/17 AltLd dnf

First multi-pitch. Last pitch abandoned due to heat and exhaustion.

Tim_C7 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Ross Stephenson
Jimbob64 16/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 3

with Simon
Strife 16/Jun/17 AltLd dog

Amazing route. Sadly I was lacking in commitment and finesse. Two rests on the rope.

tommccluskey 12/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Amar
lukey13 11/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Emma :)
emma1987 11/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with lukey13
james n 10/Jun/17 AltLd rpt
with Lisa P
EllieWoods 14/May/17 AltLd rpt

Speed ascent - 52 minutes car to car 😃

with pete belfield
AlexRenshaw 14/May/17 Lead
with Ted Lister
petecallaghan 08/May/17 AltLd rpt

Dominic lead P1 (that crux move is still hard). I lead P2 and P3. P3 feels like the most relaxed pitch of the three. Great conditions and lovely place to finish the evening. The top out was clean and generally free of vegetation. The rusty peg ladder at the top was easy to find

EllieWoods 08/May/17 Lead rpt
with Adam
Dominic Acland 08/May/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1, made it, but only just! Pete did Ps 2 & 3.

with Pete
Adam Henderson 08/May/17 2nd
with Ellie Woods
simonsnake77 06/May/17 AltLd O/S

Split P1, and got bottom and top p2 clean. One slip on tricky crux of p3 above the gulley, great lead by Ben Symonds. Lead p4 and got it clean apart from one rest.

NeilHowarth 25/Mar/17 AltLd O/S

Led P1 & P3

with Paul Grattage, Marc
Adam Henderson 12/Mar/17 2nd
georgechapman 11/Mar/17 Lead dog
jcking231 26/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Been on the list for a while and didn't disappoint! Excellent mixture of climbing styles. Stuck the crux move at the top of the second pitch...but only just! Very much appreciated Louis agreeing to second me

with Louis Raettig
Adam Hill 07/Nov/16 AltLd
with Pete
Adam Hill 12/Oct/16 2nd
Hayley loves climbing 09/Oct/16 2nd β
Adam Hill 07/Oct/16 2nd
PaulTclimbing 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Previous p1 and p3 .with someone from s west or s Wales. Forgotten probs 2006. Did p2 and p4. Split pitches. Been a very good year for veg growth. Top out plastered. Dug it out but no pegs so runout.

with Pete
seabrook 08/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Pulled a toaster sized chunk out at left a couple of moves up. What's left above it is wobbly. Tricky crux but there's a hidden jug to the right and up from the first crack/pocket. Very cool shelf section afterwards. Got up to the top of P1 but mate couldn't get over the crux so made a nasty ab down in the dark. Seems I left a quickdraw up there. Arete beyond the second belay looks dead interesting, keen to go back. With hindsight I'd stay at the first belay whilst partner makes the crux - rope stretch dropped her rather further than necessary at each fall.

TommyKips 13/Aug/16 AltLd dnf

Got to the 2nd anchor at the end of the official pitch one and it rained! Tried to outlast but got cold and slippery so ab'd out. We'll be back soon...

Tom courtiour 11/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
sus 11/Jun/16 AltLd
jhobbs 23/May/16 2nd O/S

What an amazing route!! Did in glorious evening sunshine. Pete led it all and did in 4 pitches. Really pleased to climb it clean. Found one hard move on the first pitch and again a short link of moves on the final pitch when pulling over the traverse on polished fingery slopers. So pleased to hold it!!

with Charlie chambers, Pete Belfield
tonevert 14/May/16 Lead O/S
with Paloma
Borden 01/May/16 AltLd O/S
petecallaghan 01/May/16 AltLd rpt

Clean lead of P1, tho I dropped a qd on Scott. Still found the crux move strenuous and clipping the bolt v awkward. Scott lead P2, and I lead P3.

with Scott
tskelhon ?/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/16 Lead O/S
petecallaghan 02/Apr/16 AltLd rpt

I tried to lead P1, but could not make the clip on the crux. At least it was dry this time. Pete and Charlie split P1, with Pete leading the first half. I found P2 and P3 a grade easier than P1, and would grade them at UK 5c (6b+?), 5a (6a?), 5b (6b?).

with Pete Belfield, Charlie Chambers
Hidden 26/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/16 AltLd
Jackislav 15/Feb/16 AltLd

P1 + P3, bit wet in the middle but great fun

petecallaghan 06/Dec/15 2nd dog

The seepage on P1 made the crux much harder - I ended up aiding over it. P2 was fine, but on P3 the rain came in and Pete took a 15m fall. He then had to aid up on small wires before we ab'd out in the drenching drizzle.

with Pete Belfield
ben.phillips 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 0.5 and 3. Started following another line of bolts going high on pitch 3 and then had to down climb to get back on track. Really good route!

Benjaminblanc 03/Oct/15 AltLd

Ben Phillips lead pitches 1+2. I lead pitch 3 but had a cheeky pull on gear on the step across. Great route but nasty top out. I finished on a bolt to the left before going over the top, could have done with extending that one. Look out for ticks up there btw.......

Hidden 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Phil Murray 27/Jun/15 AltLd rpt

SPeed ascent record for us - 85 mins. Brilliant.

with Steve Wright
Holister 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Great views

with Si, andy
Kap 21/Jun/15 AltLd

Lead 1st (45m) & 3rd pitch

with Sean
SeanSmith 21/Jun/15 AltLd
with Perry
EllieWoods 16/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with pete belfield
Hidden 16/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Tristan.Stricker 11/Jun/15 Lead dog

Good. Soft 6b+. Messed up the traverse by going too low. Top pitch is the best

patrickcd 12/May/15 AltLd O/S

First pitch has hardest moves.

with Yura
Caspian Johnson 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with Nick Jones
Paul Baller 10/May/15 Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Ellis Butler-Barker 26/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Charlotte Warner 26/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
bonelessivar 22/Apr/15 Lead dog

Led all 3. Fell on the 1st and 2nd pitches. Bit gutted as neither are that hard. Think I traversed too high on pitch 2. Great route.

wurzelinzummerset 22/Apr/15 2nd dog

Evening climb so just tried to get up it as quick as I could, which included a bit of draw-pulling on the harder bits. One definite crux on each pitch, most of the remainder was fairly straightforward.

with Ric
jimothy718 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
i_a_coops 03/Nov/14 Lead rpt
with Jenny
kennythescot 13/Oct/14 Lead dog
with Luke Robinson
philipbwilliams 12/Oct/14 2nd
with Tanya, Steve Wright
youwillfindjimbo 12/Oct/14 AltLd O/S
with Dan Ely
leobold ?/Oct/14 Lead dog
with Matt Davis
PalfreyN 23/Sep/14 AltLd RP
Tru 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Fun climb top pitch is definitely the best. Make sure to use furthest belay to the right on pitch one. Asked Rory to be my best man at the top.

halfwaythere 21/Sep/14 2nd dog

Seconded this; fell on the second pitch as moved across to belay and third pitch on traverse as went left to join another, bolted line near the top. Thoroughly enjoyed it.

with john
johncoxmysteriously 21/Sep/14 Lead

Nice - strange grades, though. The second pitch is never 6b+ and the first one (6a+ in the guide) is harder than either of the other two. The 'weirdly jammed ledge' on pitch two moves - not sure if it's supposed to - but didn't actually fall out.

felixizzy 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

1st & 3rd Pitch.

with Mike
Hidden 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with steve read
brices 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Llinos
Rob Morgan 25/Jun/14 2nd dog
James Marshall 20/Jun/14 Lead rpt

started at 5:30, topped out at 10 pm !

with jenny & annie
luke harvie 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S

actually fluffed the crux on the first pitch - putting that down as a warm up! lead p2+3 clean. great route, great views. p2 i'd say was only a 6b+ if you climb above the shelf that runs level with the terrace - very trick balance traverse then. easier if you step across to the break earlier.

Digga 15/Jun/14 2nd dog

Peeled off the tricky bulge crux on P1 and fell in the chimney last move of P2 (luckily leader clipped first bolt on Sunsations to protect this). Awesome route though, I'll be back. Great views, good exposure and good abseil off too!

magicmartin 13/Apr/14 2nd dnf

Perry lead this and I came up 2nd with Zane. The first pitch (Missing first bolt belay) Wasn't too bad at all but the 2nd crux pitch I REALLY struggled with and ending up pulling on gear. It was late so we Abseiled down from the terrace. One for another day!!

with Perry Adams, Zane Butcher
Kap 12/Apr/14 Lead dnf

Lead first two pitches clean, backed off the third due to time.

Hidden 16/Mar/14 AltLd dog
budchawla 15/Mar/14 AltLd

Led P1 - messed up the crux. The rest was pretty smooth apart from slight flutters at the P3 crux. P2 felt soft. Fun route, well worth it - just under 3 hours round trip. Damn nettles.

Tommyads ??/2014 -
RileyJ 08/Sep/13 AltLd
Nick Russell 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Led the top two pitches. A great route with awesome exposure on P3

with Jack
Richezzz 25/Jun/13 2nd O/S

amazing climb, a really nice climb to end the day think we did it in just under 3 hours or just over :)

markfromstoke 19/May/13 Lead
with Norman
Hidden 19/May/13 AltLd
markfromstoke 24/Apr/13 -

Pitch 1 and 2

with Norman
Hidden 24/Apr/13 -
Didymus 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Marcus
beardy mike ??/2013 -
Macca_7 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Excellent fully bolted multi pitch sport route. Led 2nd & 3rd. 1st pitch must be pretty close to the crux with the move through the crack easy to and from there mind. Next pitch is short but has some good moves in the groove to an exciting exit. Top pitch lovely climbing in a fantastic position. Great route.

with Edward Evans
MikeC59 07/Sep/12 Lead

First two pitches only, lowered from Utopia terrace due to visit to osteopath day before! Bulge on first pitch needs thinking followed by bold approach I found.

with Kuang
tommytuffa 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Libby
jiggerypokery 05/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Led all pitches, awesome but rank, rank top-out. Any pegs or whatever to the right are well overgrown with Ivy

Pippa 19/Jun/12 AltLd
mountain_jay 19/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

lead 1&3. Tricky crux on 1st pitch for 6a.

James Marshall ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Gareth Bowen 27/May/12 Lead dog

Fell at the end of P2 with a silly error in route reading. P1 and 3 onsight.

with Matt Hawes
Hidden 25/May/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
MarcT ?/May/12 Lead dog

Lead all 3 pitches. Waved to open topped bus at top of first. Clipped a rusty piton at the top of 3rd because of lack of bolts and, well, why not. Small shower a couple of times.

with Duncan S
markfromstoke 15/Apr/12 2nd dog
with Ian
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
ian d f 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
grp 30/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/11 AltLd
Justin T 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S


with Cherry
Hidden 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
robertcunningham86 15/Oct/11 2nd dog

Tim Howell

paddymitton 02/Oct/11 Lead

Bloody brilliant fun route.

robbie Warke 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S


with Jamie Parfrey
drcorbasisgod 11/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Luke Dawson 15/Jun/11 -
benkelsey 28/May/11 AltLd rpt

Lead the easy pitch (2) having done it before I let Remus have the good ones. Had work for 9 hours and finished at 10 pm. Picked Remus up at 11 and started by just gone 11.30 and finished by a tidy 3 a.m up and down. Went off route on the first pitch which resulted in some adventures bramble bashing in the dark.. interesting lead. Night climbing is the best way to do routes for sure, although footwork is fairly tricky. Nice calm leads from Remus all the way. another 10 hours work starting early this morning... :/

Hidden 27/May/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/May/11 AltLd O/S
BenRyle 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Ant Parkes 21/May/11 Lead dog
with ryler89
CharlotteMilner 21/May/11 Lead dnf
just one more 18/May/11 Lead
with tony l
Hidden 18/May/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden 07/May/11 2nd dog
Pan Ron 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Surprisingly tough. F6b+ seems fair. P1 was interesting and fun and P2 can be a little sketchy moving up to the belay stance. P3 took focus; no ring anchors on the rock, rather topping out on to the grass to a good tree anchor - results in a substantial run out from the last bolt, through two rusty pegs, and up on to the grass.

with DrGav
DrGav 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Good fun. Quite cruxy on all 3 pitches (did it in four). Think 6b, 6b+,6b+ is fair. Both the 6b+ pitches had their cruxes on traverse sections, although the final pitch well-protected for the second at that point. Both took some working out! The final pitch had a bit of a runout at the end with 2 rusty pegs providing some mild comfort...

with Dave
Hidden 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
willbatho 26/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/11 AltLd dog
Pete Rigby ?/Feb/11 AltLd

Freezing cold in the middle of the night. Very good fun!

with Jim Tan
_m.cox_ ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
arandall 06/Oct/10 2nd dog
benkelsey 06/Oct/10 Lead

Fantastic Climbing - dry and almost sunny. weirdly the first pitch felt the hardest. Had an interesting moment with Alex falling just before the pinnacle - fortunately he left in the draw first!! having a slack belay I headed out away from the pinnacle. Great moves on all of the pitches - exposed but not in a bad way. Abbed down in 6! as we onlt had one 50meter rope, very slick though and got down in under half an hour.

Hidden 02/Oct/10 2nd dog
mrtom 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with Mike Stephenson, Mike Moss
jacobjacob 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 2, lots of fun. With Jenni and Ian.

thomb 23/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
richiebongo 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
richsmithinbristol 19/Jun/10 AltLd
Jim Brooke 19/Jun/10 AltLd
with Rich
Leeds 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
DorsetGareth 17/Jun/10 AltLd O/S

Pip lead first and fourth, I lead second & third pitch as one to pass other climbers (wouldn't recommend due to rope drag!). Great route, esp last pitch.

with Pip
Hidden ?/Jun/10 -
Dr Caterpillar 21/May/10 AltLd dog
with Harry
Hidden 21/May/10 AltLd O/S
Dan Jenkin 15/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Gordon Jenkin
Neil McA 05/May/10 Lead O/S
with Matt bengey
Hidden 28/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Campbell.D ?/Apr/10 AltLd dog

first multi pitch climb enjoyed so much onsited 2nd pitch. need to re do with no falls soon

with Grant, sash
Phil Murray 14/Mar/10 2nd dog

So cold had to take a break on top pitch! Very thin...

with Fenella, Steve Wright
brices ??/2010 Lead
WillRees ??/2010 2nd β

My first climb at Avon

with Tom White, Gav
Rosea Day ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Thomas Heslam
Hidden ??/2010 -
Paul Bowen 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

me p1&3 john p2

with John James
Mowglee 01/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Thought the first pitch was hardest! No way the 2nd two are 6b+, I'd say 6b, 6b, 6a+

with Andy Tobin
jlgoddard 28/Sep/09 2nd β

first pitched route, awesome!!!

andy dunn 24/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

J led P1, I led P2 & P3 If you don't remember a set of wires then you're faced with a fairly run out section on pitch 3. Really enjoyed the route!

with J
tobydunford 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Bitmead
Hidden 04/Jul/09 Lead rpt
Jack R-N 16/Jun/09 AltLd β
with James
andybenham 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Red pointed 1st pitch after falling last year seconding it in the rain. Clean second on second pitch Led third pitch onsight. Awsome route. All pitches good and all have an exciting crux move or two ... the traverse at the top of the corner on pitch three is especially memorable

Gareth 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 last year. Pitch 2 by me, pitch 3 by Andy.

with Andrew
Tim M 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S

P1 only

with Steve W
Paz 21/May/09 Lead dnf

P1 only.

with TS2
richsmithinbristol ?/May/09 AltLd
billb ?/May/09 AltLd O/S
A-dog ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead dog
chockstone ?/Oct/08 AltLd dog

pitch 1/2 lead clean onsight. pitch 3 lead, hung on gear once. pitch 4 seconded clean no falls.

with Eric Herring
Hidden 24/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Chubbard 21/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with C Godfrey
SamStokes 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 then moved across to Paradise

with Alex Harper
Paz 20/Sep/08 AltLd rpt

Lead P1

with WG
Hidden 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
ericinbristol ?/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

S P1 (L P1 in 04/11), S P2, L P3.

with Tom
just one more 29/Jun/08 Lead
with tim b
Hidden 25/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
JimR 13/Jun/08 2nd
with Charles H
Chubbard 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S


John Southworth 07/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Jason Parker
Kev Little ??/2008 Lead O/S
Marti999 11/Mar/07 Lead
steve taylor 11/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Led middle pitch - excellent climbing all the way, and hard all the way too.

Hidden ??/2007 -
Fat Tim 11/Mar/06 Lead O/S

I lead all the pitches

with Nick Ingram, Mark kauntz
Hidden 11/Mar/06 2nd dog
Hidden 04/Mar/06 AltLd dog
Tom Heslam ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Ed Heslam
just one more 27/Nov/04 Lead
with tim b
Hidden 21/Oct/04 Lead O/S
Ally Smith ?/Feb/04 AltLd
Mark Kemball ?/Feb/04 AltLd
with Stu Bradbury
Paz ?/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
with AS
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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set