UKC

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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Climb the wall just right of Beeline to the slim corner and finish up it. Using the Beeline crack is usual on the initial section, but it can be avoided. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The line just right of Beeline, climb to a thread and continue direct without bridging back onto the large offwidth crack of The Bone. Continue up the smaller corner groove to the small belay tree. Abseil tat is on the larger tree above The Bone.

Ticklists

Shorn Cliff Nose

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 11
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Laughing Cavaliers

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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