Rockfax Description
This long route has reasonable rock, and some vegetation. Approach - Go up Kjernadalen to the pass between Vestre Trakta and Trolltindmuren, then go down a gully to the southwest, with one short abseil to reach the foot of the west pillar. The route starts on the pillar's right side below a chimney.
1) N5, 40m. Climb up a slab and into a right-slanting V-groove, then up a crack to the right of a roof. Traverse back left above the roof into a chimney. Belay above.
2) N5+, 40m. Climb up to a ledge, then move down and right across another ledge into a corner. At the top of the corner, angle right across the top of a slab. Climb the corner above, which is the hardest climbing on the route.
3) N3+, 40m. Traverse down and left, finally climbing up a chimney to a belay on the left.
4) N4, 40m. Climb another chimney on the left, traverse right on a ledge, then climb a corner up and right. Another chimney up and left leads to a belay ledge.
5) N5-, 40m. Traverse right, then climb a corner to a ledge, then another corner leads up to a belay.
6) N3, 20m. Step left, climb a corner, then head up the right side of a slab to a belay.
7) N5-/A1, 40m. Step right into a slightly right-slanting corner (A1 with 3 points of aid). Climb another corner above, move right into a chimney, then climb up and left to a belay.
8) N5-, 20m. Climb up a crack up a slab, then traverse easily up and right to the next belay.
9) N5, 40m. Step right, and climb diagonally right across a slab to a ramp. Then climb two narrow corners to a grassy ledge. Belay on the right-hand side.
10) N5-, 40m. Climb chimney cracks up a slabby face, then continue just right of a corner to a stance just left of another small corner.
11) N4-, 40m. Climb up this corner, moving up right, then back left, up past ledges to the belay.
12) 20m. Walk right along a ledge and up to a belay.
13) N4, 40m. Step left, then back right, and climb two corners to the next belay.
14) N4+, 40m. Climb up and left across a face. Walk left on a ledge, climb a corner up to the right, then step left over a slab to the belay.
15) N5-, 25m. Step left into a corner, then finish left up another corner.
From the top of the pillar, follow the ridge and scramble to the summit. Descend down the Northwest Ridge route. © Rockfax

FA. Arild Meyer, Johnny Lauritsen, Kjell Skog 7.1976. 9 hours of climbing, 20 hours tent to tent. It was so warm that the climbers sunbathed naked on the summit and waved hello to a passing plane flying low overhead. 15/Jul/1976.

Ticklists

Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

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