UKC

Restricted Access

The north side of the Gorge is predominantly owned by the National Trust and mapped as Open Access land under the CRoW Act which give a right of access for climbers to use these crags all year. The Cheddar Gorge Access Map gives full details of climbing access throughout the Gorge.

The map references the latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015), which has details of the popular crags on the north side and definitive details of restored routes on the south side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Dogs should be kept under control on a lead at any crags on the north side of the Gorge.

The National Trust require any new bolting to be cleared with them first - please contact the BMC Access Team if you are considering any bolting work and so we can help in any approach to the Trust.

Gain a ledge from the left, then follow a line of layaways until a traverse left leads to a shakeout. Blast through the steep section above on undercuts to reach some good holds and a final tricky move.

Ticklists

Bolts to clip in Cheddar , Soft Touches , Bristol sport , Brizzle goalz , 7Cs with stars near Bristol

Feedback

User Date Notes
Caspian Johnson 22 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Broke a handhold off near top for right hand. Probably makes it a little harder but doesn't change the grade
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Broke a handhold off near top for right hand. Probably makes it a little harder but doesn't change the grade
Ben.o.neill 13 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock has now come off and makes a giant foot hold. Takes every ounce of my will power to avoid using it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock has now come off and makes a giant foot hold. Takes every ounce of my will power to avoid using it.
LilyPops 4 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route ...pass a loose rock section around feet, a third of way up, marked by cross and crucial ‘tower’ hand hold higher up prising from wall. Will blow one day.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route ...pass a loose rock section around feet, a third of way up, marked by cross and crucial ‘tower’ hand hold higher up prising from wall. Will blow one day.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Return of the Gunfighter

Grade: 7c ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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