Rockfax Description
The wide central corner-crack is a popular and very traditional outing, being one of the earliest climbs to be accomplished on a British sea-cliff. Start at the base of the boot-wide crack.
The corner-crack is sustained all the way and needs plenty of big gear. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, West Country Climbs, Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, Baggy point road to ruins HVS, South West VDiff-HVS.

Stewwy21 24/Feb Lead O/S

Big gear, and all of it. Anchor top right of climb

elclarko 24/Feb 2nd
Hidden ??/2018 Lead
leadmat 27/Oct/17 2nd O/S
with Dave Woodhouse
Toni Climber 23/Sep/17 Lead
with Ben, Dan
legg2360 26/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with jo10101
Lizlet13 06/Aug/17 2nd
with PG
David Walker 25/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with rig
Hidden 25/Jun/17 Lead
paulerussell 25/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with jamesca
rig 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Greeny9510 09/May/17 Lead O/S
with feaver
elclarko 26/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Tommy yorke 11/Feb/17 Lead O/S
with Skip
Skip 11/Feb/17 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Jan/17 Lead rpt
mike mo ??/2017 -
mike mo ??/2017 -
Issy 12/Nov/16 Lead
with NeilHowarth
Stanners 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S

a bit of a drama abseiling in! ..having only taught Anna at sheepstor a week earlier. Classic route and can't believe the first ascentionist date! 1898?! Agreed with the boldness at the grade given no one has that much big gear.

with Anna Cross
jamie_bkc 29/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Run out by Ruth, top stuff!

Hidden 29/Oct/16 Lead
Matico 31/Aug/16 Lead
Keith Swainson 28/Aug/16 Solo O/S
Slarti B 23/Jul/16 2nd

Tried to climb slab just left with a few grabs of left hand side of crack when needed!

with pelvoux
Hidden 11/Jul/16 Lead
Mad Mongoose 13/Mar/16 2nd
Lizard Ollie 13/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Boldest VDiff I've ever done. Easy climbing but seriously low on protection without lots of big gear

JackM92 26/Feb/16 Solo O/S

Straightforward. Some fun knee jams near the top!

Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Phil Anderson ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 26/Sep/15 TR
alisonlea75 26/Sep/15 TR
phil456 11/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Graham M
Hidden 04/Sep/15 -
JackSnowden 29/Aug/15 -
Jamie Skelton 17/Aug/15 Lead O/S
monkeytennis 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Lovely. Anymore gear and the climb may loose its charisma. Thanks to Chris for the no 6 cam, not really needed in the end but settled the mind.

with Nick Every
gabor 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Placed gear in the first half, but did not have big enough cams with me so the second half turned into soloing apparently.

Mattheww2356 06/Jul/15 2nd
BStar 01/May/15 Lead
Rachael88 01/May/15 2nd
with BStar
will484 01/May/15 Lead
with jaynie blake
GDS 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with BCC
seanprendiville 18/Oct/14 TR
with Tessa
TimPerkin 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Richard Harris
linal66 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S

first lead on trad in 4 year well happy with myself, actually enjoyed it =]

Simon Caldwell 08/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Didn't use the crack at all, smeared up its left edge. Great little route, enhanced by the rapidly incoming tide.

with Lemming
Hidden 08/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Kenhard 04/Sep/14 TR O/S

Better climbing that Moonshine, felt safer thought placed many pieces of pro for an anchor. Big pieces/cams required for lead.

with unslev
Hidden 04/Sep/14 TR O/S
RKirke 23/Aug/14 Solo O/S
Rhi Rhi 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with MIsh
freemanTom 17/Aug/14 2nd

Classic Tilly. Some comedy gear placements and failed to use biggest cam or hex though were useful for belay. To be fair you do need massive gear and I left the size 6 camalot in the van

with Amy Till
andrewmc 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Very spicy for a VDiff? I know all the comments are saying 'big gear' but unless your rack consists of almost entirely massive, massive, massive cams you will find this almost devoid of gear (a few nut placements here and there and I got one cam deep inside a crack in the crack!). I had a Dragon 6 (equivalent to Tech Friend/Camalot 4) and it was not big enough. Good route but poor gear!

with Jacques Masson
Graeme Hammond 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Excellent fun, very easy and a bit like a steep walk, even with 3 bits of gear (smaller gear in the smaller side wall crack) it didn't feel bold.

with Martin Ellis
Paul_southgate68 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

didn't really have anything big enough for the crack, pretty much a solo.

with henry
BenRyle 03/Jul/14 -
with Will Y
beckett45 03/Jul/14 -
georgeevans88 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Caitlin
mackroyd 28/Jun/14 Lead
with Chris Henshall
elyben 27/Jun/14 Lead
j4kub 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with claire gibson
Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Richard Morgan 14/Jun/14 2nd
OllieF 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Could have done with a LOT more big gear!

J.A.Thomson 10/Jun/14 TR rpt
dmaldonado 02/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ed Walker
Jack Manfredi 27/May/14 Lead
wjcdean 16/May/14 2nd O/S

Much better rock than moonshot, awesome layback all the way up.

with BStar
BStar 16/May/14 Lead

Really nice lead, good length and interesting rock all the way up

with wjcdean
Senna 04/May/14 Solo O/S
BenFord893 23/Apr/14 Lead O/S
arandall 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Marcus Hague, Isaac Whitcombe
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/14 2nd
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/14 2nd
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/14 2nd
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/14 2nd
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/14 2nd
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/14 2nd
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/14 2nd
J.A.Thomson ?/Jan/14 2nd
jon59 ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
gateaublaster ??/2014 Lead O/S
with ed
JamesColeman 20/Oct/13 TR O/S

Top rope solo. Lovely way to end the trip. Relaxing route. Extremely windy at top though.

nmott 27/Aug/13 TR

Micros or very large gear needed to climb this crag!

with Lyndsey Weatherhogg
Hidden 11/Aug/13 -
Alex Parker 11/Aug/13 2nd

Really enjoyed this, nice way to finish the day.

Anna Morris 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
davepotter2011 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Laura Parker 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Relaxing pootle to finish off the day.

rustyfishhook 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Nice route take some cams BIG cams! Great place for lunch on the small ledges with a cracking view!

ElBarto 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Bit harder than I expected for a VDiff but not hard if you've got the technique down. Takes big gear (bigger than I had) or smaller gear if you look around a bit.

with Vicky Hayes
madguernseyboy 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Russell
mky77 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Caroline 2010 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Trippinjester 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
martin one 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MarkCunnington 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Wildstyle 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
josh.sims 06/Aug/13 2nd
Chris dyer 06/Aug/13 Lead O/S

What an interesting day... My first ever lead on a sea cliff climb!! It's a really nice climb if you can smear, you just walk your feet up the slab! But you need lots if big gear! I made the mistake of using all my big gear near the bottom of the climb! So the top of the climb was very run out! Although I did manage to get a good hex in near the top! I would say that it was the most committed climb I've done so far!

peter.ravenscroft27 22/Jul/13 2nd
with Fiona Ravenscroft
Danbow73 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S

pretty easy climb... really good holds and walked my feet up the slab but its quite bold and has a big runout (10m+) from about half way. was so glad to get a cam in just before the top

Hidden 09/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 29/Jun/13 2nd

A great climb. Nice end to a long day. Can imagine it's scary for a vdiff leader... and the person on the first Ascent. More arete than crack.

with gerwen
Hidden 26/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead O/S
darren hudson 10/Jun/13 2nd O/S

fun VD crack climb. looks wet but good grip and holds

with Dave Wynne jones
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
scott titt ??/2013 -
rockpool ?/Oct/12 2nd rpt
with jarod bishop
Graham Westbrook 12/Sep/12 2nd
Tom Downes 07/Sep/12 2nd
nickevens 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
10029759 01/Sep/12 Lead
mattkemp70 ?/Sep/12 Lead
with Westy
hairy51 ?/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Joris.Roulleau 12/Aug/12 Solo O/S
mky77 11/Aug/12 2nd
Skip 28/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Reds
Reds 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Skip
shelagh23 27/Jul/12 Lead
Matt Smith 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

First lead in 1898! Fair play as there isn't a whole lot of gear there.

with lewisea
lewisea 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very nice climb, great place to learn gear placement and abseiling

with Emily Smith, Matt Smith
MGrock 29/May/12 Lead
TomBaker 19/May/12 Lead O/S
with timmyc
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd O/S
Nick Ashwood 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

First sea cliff climb.

with Adam Silvester, Phil Kingston
l0ngb0ardl0ser 06/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
HansUDes 17/Mar/12 2nd O/S
pasbury ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
alan moore ??/2012 -
jack243 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Rob H
Ramblin dave 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Great atmosphere and lovely easy-but-consistent moves - climbs more like a slabby arete than a crack. Not much gear - the runouts are fairly thought-provoking for a VDiff leader.

with Alison
chiverstom 23/Sep/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
DaNo123 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

H led afterwards.

with Hannah, NICK
Bullybones 13/Aug/11 Solo
antmorgan1991 21/Jul/11 Lead O/S

First proper sea-cliff climb. Fun route, if you can get to it!

with Ross Monaghan
hangon 02/Jul/11 2nd
with Jo
Happy Wanderer 02/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Ken T
climbingxcat 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Brian
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
MD 02/Jul/11 2nd
with Richard H, Donna
Rhys Jones 05/Jun/11 Solo
with CalshotDave
James Moyle 29/May/11 TR O/S

Down climbed and then climbed back up! Top roped and downclimbed due to inexperienced second who hadn't belayed before.

MinHazeldine 21/May/11 Lead O/S
Liam FLeming 25/Apr/11 Lead
kdalzell 25/Apr/11 Lead
Craig Geddes 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with George Porter
Paul Eckton ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with steve read
nickledlie 22/Jan/11 Lead
with Dave Radley
djromberg ??/2011 -
r.greaves 01/Nov/10 TR
with Gaz Hughes
rockman 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Straightforward VD in superb position

timcedwards 27/Oct/10 2nd
with rockman
rfdl100 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Stu Barclay, Simon Waters
Hidden 12/Sep/10 Lead
Geras 12/Sep/10 2nd
with thesfg, Cory Hughes
Hidden 31/Aug/10 Lead
jtree03 30/Aug/10 Lead
with Susan
Hidden 31/Jul/10 2nd O/S
3kidsandanorton 11/Jul/10 2nd
with Catherine, Kay
Hidden ?/Jun/10 2nd β
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden ?/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Rhys Jones 24/Apr/10 Lead
jockbmx666 ?/Mar/10 TR O/S
Hidden 13/Feb/10 2nd
Homes ?/Jan/10 2nd
Homes ?/Jan/10 2nd
Homes ?/Jan/10 2nd
MGrock ??/2010 -
jcook1980 ??/2010 Lead
with Homes
mike.moss ??/2010 Lead O/S
culmclimberRob 28/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with mike hoole
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd
JCookie 20/Sep/09 2nd
with John Stibbard, Richard Plater
RiPomc 20/Sep/09 Lead
with JCookie
paulerussell 20/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Jamie Lewis
Hidden 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S
Mark Stevenson 29/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 18/Aug/09 2nd
lithos 16/Aug/09 2nd

great fun. kept feet out of the crack. ab straight down route at high tide - interesting :)

Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead
paulh1967 ??/2009 -
davenev ??/2009 -
Nobster ??/2009 Lead
chriswitts1 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Not a bad climb, same move all the way up though. Pro placement is interesting

with Neil Christie
LongJohns84 17/Sep/08 2nd

Fell over the overhang and hurt ankle, but made it out, just a little sore. Note to self - remember to be cautious when descending on climbing rope.

with nikinko
MoWalker3 13/Sep/08 -
with Cormac
nikinko 07/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Laura J
existing debt 08/Aug/08 Lead
with Iain a
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead
daviesp2 19/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden 10/May/08 Lead O/S
erica 09/May/08 Lead O/S
John Brayshaw 09/May/08 2nd O/S
with erica
swmackey ?/May/08 Lead
with TJ
csd23 ?/Jan/08 TR O/S
existing debt ??/2008 -
lazydaizy24 ??/2008 -
Flashy ??/2008 Lead
John Lisle ??/2008 -
Neil Adams 10/Nov/07 2nd O/S
with Fidget
fishinwater ?/Oct/07 2nd
with Helen
Hidden 22/Sep/07 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Blisco 09/Sep/07 2nd
with Paul Crafter
Jules 210681 30/Aug/07 Lead
with Zoomer
Zoomer 30/Aug/07 2nd

Mega, got to the bottom as the tide was coming in, exciting! Really nice climbing but you need big gear.

Lev 26/Aug/07 TR O/S
with Emma
ramblecote 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S

Really great climb for first climb.

with Adrian, Emma, and Lev
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/07 2nd O/S
freelancer_85 14/Jul/07 2nd O/S

Two rules about abseiling into sea cliffs. Rule One: Don't forget your rock shoes. Rule Two: Make sure that your partners know that they need to bring the ropes down. Lovely route though, and it goes in trainers too ;o)

with Cas and Nikki
cas smerdon 14/Jul/07 Lead

Didn't get any gear in top half! Great climb.

with Josh and Nikki
nikinko 14/Jul/07 2nd rpt

Caz led the route, Josh and I seconded. Did it as a layback this time.

thomasadixon 14/Jul/07 Solo O/S

Had the rope we abbed in on right next to us.

with Christian
jonnyboy 06/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Dan Shirley 26/May/07 Solo O/S
nikinko 24/Mar/07 Lead O/S

Needed more big gear! Dropped down over the ridge to belay.

with Rob Greenwood
Nix Ward 10/Mar/07 Lead O/S

awesome fun. very sparse pro towards the top. had a good bit of run out....!

with 184Dave
Hidden 10/Mar/07 2nd rpt
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
John Lisle ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
DDDD ??/2007 -
Hidden 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
Justin T 29/Oct/06 2nd O/S
with TeaGirl
Hidden 15/Oct/06 Solo O/S
CJE 10/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Chris Haynes
Hidden 29/Aug/06 Solo O/S
sgl 29/Aug/06 Solo
rig 27/Aug/06 2nd O/S
with Dave Melotte
tumbling wizard 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
crossdressingrodney 06/Aug/06 2nd O/S

Excellent line. Can be done as a delicate slab or a thuggy jamming crack.

victim of mathematics 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Alaister Nurse 04/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Excellent Climb, and no polishing for such a classic route

gazbonutter 03/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Very exciting vdiff, watch the waves, Nathan got wet feet!

with Jo Kennedy + Nathan
Hidden ?/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Rup D 22/Jul/06 Lead
with Mike O'Brien
Danhan 25/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Cathal
Hidden 21/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/06 Lead RP
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
BruceW ?/Aug/05 Solo O/S
with bectodd
Hidden 31/Jul/05 Lead O/S
naughtybadboy 31/Jul/05 2nd
with simon day
GuyC 03/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Dave N, Clare
Ian Archer 29/May/05 Lead O/S

Easy climbing but need big gear

with Jodie Munks
Greg M ??/2005 Lead
with Kate, Dom
charlesmfrench 11/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Alexa
Bob M 23/Sep/03 2nd
sixties 15/Sep/03 Lead
with scc
tobydunford 11/Sep/03 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith, Matthew Carey
Hidden 03/Sep/03 Lead
AngelaC 30/Jun/03 Lead
with dpc
rockjedi12345 ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
with Pete Sanderson
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
howlers 15/Aug/02 2nd
Ian JL ?/Jun/02 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2002 -
MartinN 22/Sep/01 Lead O/S
BALD EAGLE 29/Jul/01 2nd
with Karl Rust
timreynolds 23/Sep/00 Lead
with Paul Bastiaiens
John Roe 28/Aug/00 AltLd

Also with Paul Farmer

with Nige Hughes
nigehughes ?/Aug/00 Lead
with John Roe, Paul Farmer
Hidden 22/Apr/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
Bob M 18/Jul/99 -
with Chris Bristow
NewLeaf ?/Sep/98 2nd
with john
mattmoss ??/1998 2nd O/S
Mickdenali ??/1998 Lead O/S
babymoac 30/Nov/97 Lead
with Rob S
cem 29/Nov/97 2nd
with Gordon Carder
andy_pemberton ?/Oct/97 Lead
with Claudia Birmen
Adrian Daniels 13/Sep/97 Lead
with John Parrott
colin milton 13/Sep/97 Lead
with american rich
PaulTanton 27/May/96 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/95 Solo O/S
jim_randell 07/May/95 Lead O/S
with FW
cornishben ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Andy Connor
Derek Ryden ?/Aug/94 Solo O/S
Raggar 07/Aug/93 2nd
with Jon B
crater 13/Apr/93 Lead
sdht ??/1993 -
Didymus 14/Jun/92 2nd O/S
with BUMC
nai ?/Feb/92 Lead
with Roger Devy
Marti999 ??/1992 Solo
Iain Thow 24/Oct/90 2nd
with Rob Ivens
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
Tom V 16/Aug/87 -
with Howie Darwin
Hidden 01/Jul/87 Solo O/S
Simon cook ??/1987 -
Nigel Bond 11/Oct/86 Lead
rogerskews 11/Oct/86 -
JamieAyres ?/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Jude Ayres
mikej 18/Sep/85 TR
with Mike Byles
Andy Chadwick ??/1985 AltLd O/S
tapley 09/Sep/84 Lead
with Dave Kent
Andy S ?/Jul/84 TR O/S
Richard Weller 12/May/84 Solo
Mark Kemball 19/Jun/83 Solo
Ena ??/1983 -
RichardMc 18/Sep/82 Solo
Hammy 19/Aug/81 Solo
with Rob Lawson
Nigel Coe 03/Aug/81 -
with Pat Stanley, Steve Portnoi, Jackie Coe
Will Webb ?/Aug/81 -
with Nick Watkins
Martin Bennett 22/Jul/80 Solo
duncan ?/May/80 Solo
with Simon Reed
Brian Wilderspin 16/Mar/80 Solo O/S
Nigel Coe 09/Sep/78 2nd
with John Walmsley
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Mike C 14/May/78 Lead
with Richard Oxlade
Hidden 13/Aug/77 Solo
Hidden 13/Aug/77 Solo
Ken Taylor 16/Apr/77 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1976 -
Hidden ?/Apr/74 Lead
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Votes cast 38
Votes cast 37
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