27m.

Rockfax Description
An amazing route - a tough E5 or easy E6, you decide! Start just below and left of the high flying-arete that makes the dramatic climax of this route. Move up and left to a ledge and take the hanging flake on the right up the steep wall. Enter the groove above, climb past a thread and continue on to a small niche. Bridge up the groove above (peg) to a short respite before swinging right onto the arete in an outrageous position. Engage turbo thruster and head up the arete, passing a peg, to a final dramatic move at the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the detached flake, past a thread, continue into a shallow niche. Unobvious moves lead to a peg then a good rest ledge. From here move out onto the arete (peg) and beast it to the top.

Ticklists

North Wales Super Route E6's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Classic Lobs, James' Summer Ticklist, Definitive *** Llanberis

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Misha 9 Jul Show βeta
βeta: In situ lower off (shared with Roc Ness Monster) - peg and a wire. Consider adding extra gear if you feel it's necessary... Added a long piece of tat 8.7.19 - the idea is to be able to re-equalise it to ab down / belay either Roc Ness or King Wad. Didn't have a knife handy to cut out the old tat.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: In situ lower off (shared with Roc Ness Monster) - peg and a wire. Consider adding extra gear if you feel it's necessary... Added a long piece of tat 8.7.19 - the idea is to be able to re-equalise it to ab down / belay either Roc Ness or King Wad. Didn't have a knife handy to cut out the old tat.
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 24 Jun Show βeta
βeta: First go fell off reversing from the peg (to whoever told me to do this: you are wrong and I will never forgive you). Hard wild moves up the arete with a big throw to finish, although there is apparently an easier way to do it.
 
Show beta
βeta: First go fell off reversing from the peg (to whoever told me to do this: you are wrong and I will never forgive you). Hard wild moves up the arete with a big throw to finish, although there is apparently an easier way to do it.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Adam Booth 10 Jul Lead G/U 1st go today. Such a great route. Helped having the bottom dialled. Still found the new ground at the top hard!
with Jon Gupta
1st go today. Such a great route. Helped having the bottom dialled. Still found the new ground at the top hard!
with Jon Gupta
ian bryant 8 Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Jul 2nd
Misha 8 Jul Lead O/S Woo-hoo, I'm the king of the wads! Such a brilliant route and not that hard to onsight if it's as well chalked as it was today. Was a bit tired after Killerkranky but decided to give it a go anyway, encouraged by Ian's success earlier. As people have said, up to the no hands rest in the groove is a decent E4 in its own right. Steep with plenty of 5c and some 6a but mostly good holds and enough good gear. Have to go for it at times but there's always a (semi) rest and gear coming up soon enough. Ian replaced the thread, which was very helpful. The moves to get to the peg on the arete are fine and there is a good guppy on the arete. Decent number 4 wire (or a small cam) on the sidewall and the peg is ok as well. After that it was more technical than pumpy - small side pulls and a crafty poor R heel hook got me in position to make a dynamic move with RH to the sidepull jug (helpfully tickmarked). Being able to reach the jug off a good foothold helped and didn't feel 6b (can imagine it would be 6b for the short thought). Alternative is to go up with LH to the better jug on top, which is a bit further away - tried it on the ab back down and again I could reach it. Pretty much in the bag once you have the jug but still droppable so take care! Great climbing. Felt low in the grade at E5, at least with all the chalk. More sustained than Killerkranky but the moves are significantly easier. I'm the only one to have voted low E5 and mid 6a - feels good to be downgrading stuff again, ha! May be I'm not as unfit as I think at the moment.
Woo-hoo, I'm the king of the wads! Such a brilliant route and not that hard to onsight if it's as well chalked as it was today. Was a bit tired after Killerkranky but decided to give it a go anyway, encouraged by Ian's success earlier. As people have said, up to the no hands rest in the groove is a decent E4 in its own right. Steep with plenty of 5c and some 6a but mostly good holds and enough good gear. Have to go for it at times but there's always a (semi) rest and gear coming up soon enough. Ian replaced the thread, which was very helpful. The moves to get to the peg on the arete are fine and there is a good guppy on the arete. Decent number 4 wire (or a small cam) on the sidewall and the peg is ok as well. After that it was more technical than pumpy - small side pulls and a crafty poor R heel hook got me in position to make a dynamic move with RH to the sidepull jug (helpfully tickmarked). Being able to reach the jug off a good foothold helped and didn't feel 6b (can imagine it would be 6b for the short thought). Alternative is to go up with LH to the better jug on top, which is a bit further away - tried it on the ab back down and again I could reach it. Pretty much in the bag once you have the jug but still droppable so take care! Great climbing. Felt low in the grade at E5, at least with all the chalk. More sustained than Killerkranky but the moves are significantly easier. I'm the only one to have voted low E5 and mid 6a - feels good to be downgrading stuff again, ha! May be I'm not as unfit as I think at the moment.
alice fuller ?Jul 2nd dog Woj climbed this brilliantly onsight -styled it incl the arete -no wild slapping used. It is techy, steep, brilliant, nails hard and exposed
with wojt
Woj climbed this brilliantly onsight -styled it incl the arete -no wild slapping used. It is techy, steep, brilliant, nails hard and exposed
with wojt
Richard Kendrick 29 Jun Lead dog From the first peg I climbed the arête directly after the slabby rock over. Got mega pumped and fell off. I didn’t realise people moved left for a hands off rest? Surely the direct was climbed back in the day to give the grade of E6?
From the first peg I climbed the arête directly after the slabby rock over. Got mega pumped and fell off. I didn’t realise people moved left for a hands off rest? Surely the direct was climbed back in the day to give the grade of E6?
Adam Booth 29 Jun Lead dnf Frustratingly slipped off a poor foot hold whilst recovering by the first peg. Shame as I was psyched to get here onsight - found the climbing to there really hard. Steady through there the second time but then fell on the dynamic slap at the top. Got through that the third time but then didn’t have anything in the tank for the finishing few jugs! Next time!
with Richard Kendrick
Frustratingly slipped off a poor foot hold whilst recovering by the first peg. Shame as I was psyched to get here onsight - found the climbing to there really hard. Steady through there the second time but then fell on the dynamic slap at the top. Got through that the third time but then didn’t have anything in the tank for the finishing few jugs! Next time!
with Richard Kendrick
Katekeltie 22 Jun 2nd dog
markalmack 22 Jun Lead G/U Fell off slapping in desperation 1st go up. Thought it was going to be a repeat performance 2nd go, but managed to hit a jug this time.
with Trouble Bird
Fell off slapping in desperation 1st go up. Thought it was going to be a repeat performance 2nd go, but managed to hit a jug this time.
with Trouble Bird
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 22 Jun Lead G/U 3rd go. Brilliant. Great day with 3 claimants to the throne all getting there in the end. Ended up having to place all the gear again on my successful ascent - that groove isn't easy!
3rd go. Brilliant. Great day with 3 claimants to the throne all getting there in the end. Ended up having to place all the gear again on my successful ascent - that groove isn't easy!
Robb Bert 22 Jun 2nd
with Dave Toon
with Dave Toon
datoon 22 Jun Lead
with Robb
with Robb
accynez 21 Apr Lead O/S Very good if disjointed. Worth it for the trip up the arete
with Mitch
Very good if disjointed. Worth it for the trip up the arete
with Mitch
JCAshman 28 Aug, 2018 Lead β what a finish! watched ed and ben on it and then lead it with all the right gear and beta. didnt feel like e6 but I haven’t climbed one yet....
what a finish! watched ed and ben on it and then lead it with all the right gear and beta. didnt feel like e6 but I haven’t climbed one yet....
Hidden 22 Jul, 2018 Lead RP
soph 22 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt Whoop first go- couldn’t remember much about top and no chalk on it so felt exciting which I like!
with Anna Gilyeat
Whoop first go- couldn’t remember much about top and no chalk on it so felt exciting which I like!
with Anna Gilyeat
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 2nd
Hidden 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
debsb 29 May, 2018 Lead β Glenda led and abbed for the gear then I led. Got it first go, whoop whoop! Great route, I really enjoyed it.
with Glenda Huxter
Glenda led and abbed for the gear then I led. Got it first go, whoop whoop! Great route, I really enjoyed it.
with Glenda Huxter
pipof747 18 May, 2018 Lead RP
Tom Livingstone 1 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 1 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
Eduardo Martinez 6 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Fell at the top of the arete.
Fell at the top of the arete.
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 5 Jul, 2017 Lead rpt
Ellis Bird ?Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf
owain86 17 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S Amazing final arete! Good effort, Jon!
with Jon Leighton
Amazing final arete! Good effort, Jon!
with Jon Leighton
jonleighton 17 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Just awesome. Though can't help thinking it would be cooler without the hands-off rest (although I probably wouldn't have been able to do it!)
with owain86
Just awesome. Though can't help thinking it would be cooler without the hands-off rest (although I probably wouldn't have been able to do it!)
with owain86
Robbie_Phillips 25 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Incredible route, incredible position! E4 to the arete maybe is a bit hard? I dunno, I'm rubbish with grades but the final arete section was kind of straightforward whereas the lower section was a bit hard to read at times and on snappy-ish rock (or maybe I'm just too fat?) :P
with Calum McBain
Incredible route, incredible position! E4 to the arete maybe is a bit hard? I dunno, I'm rubbish with grades but the final arete section was kind of straightforward whereas the lower section was a bit hard to read at times and on snappy-ish rock (or maybe I'm just too fat?) :P
with Calum McBain
Hidden 25 Jul, 2016 Lead β
Louishmouis ?Jul, 2016 Lead O/S coool
with Dad
coool
with Dad
Hidden 30 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Jun, 2016 Lead G/U
D.Russell 25 May, 2016 Lead RP 3rd go. Foot slip pulling into slab. Pulled ropes then climbed upto arête went wrong hand first. Fell onto peg. Pulled back upto peg pulled on and climbed to top. Went back next day and done It first go for a warm up. Annoying I blew the ground up.
3rd go. Foot slip pulling into slab. Pulled ropes then climbed upto arête went wrong hand first. Fell onto peg. Pulled back upto peg pulled on and climbed to top. Went back next day and done It first go for a warm up. Annoying I blew the ground up.
Hidden 25 May, 2016 Lead β
Glyn 14 May, 2016 2nd O/S
with Will Oates
with Will Oates
willoates 14 May, 2016 Lead RP Fell off the e4 approach a couple of years ago. Onsighted the top arête today. Really good few moves up the arête at the top, kind of wish it continued for a little longer! Well psyched to get it done.
with Glyn
Fell off the e4 approach a couple of years ago. Onsighted the top arête today. Really good few moves up the arête at the top, kind of wish it continued for a little longer! Well psyched to get it done.
with Glyn
soph 16 Aug, 2015 2nd
with Pablo Martin
with Pablo Martin
Hidden 23 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
Uisdean hawthorn 9 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
samwillo 9 Jul, 2015 Lead Getting my trad head back. Cool exposure on top arête, much easier than expected, E5 6b.
Getting my trad head back. Cool exposure on top arête, much easier than expected, E5 6b.
Tom Livingstone 2 Jul, 2015 Lead rpt
with Dave Chew, sprucemoose
with Dave Chew, sprucemoose
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 7 Jun, 2015 2nd rpt
with Alex Haslehurst
with Alex Haslehurst
Gus 7 Jun, 2015 2nd
with Duncan Campbell, michaela tracey
with Duncan Campbell, michaela tracey
morganator 13 May, 2015 2nd dog Tough top move. Prob E5 though.
with International Meet Guest
Tough top move. Prob E5 though.
with International Meet Guest
bigie bob 10 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
piken 13 Sep, 2014 Lead
with WB
with WB
Luke Brooks 2 Sep, 2014 2nd
with soph
with soph
soph 2 Sep, 2014 Lead dog Fell off top move-gutted! Couldn't work out what to do with my feet before my arms gave up. Great route.
Fell off top move-gutted! Couldn't work out what to do with my feet before my arms gave up. Great route.
alaan 16 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Will
with Will
LRob 1 Jul, 2014 Lead β Fell off about 7years ago. Finally closed the chapter
Fell off about 7years ago. Finally closed the chapter
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Ally Smith 21 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Top arete is totally boss! More than lived up to the hype. No need to lay one on with a modicum of technique
Top arete is totally boss! More than lived up to the hype. No need to lay one on with a modicum of technique
Alex Mason 12 Jun, 2014 2nd
Ram MkiV 12 Jun, 2014 Lead β beta oddments from al but upper arete unchalked and awesome
with Alex
beta oddments from al but upper arete unchalked and awesome
with Alex
anguskille 3 Jun, 2014 2nd β
Ed Booth 3 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Pretty steady, was expecting top arete to be alot harder. groove below is probably harder.
Pretty steady, was expecting top arete to be alot harder. groove below is probably harder.
nathanlee 21 May, 2014 Lead Off last slap on the onsight. Second go steady. Total class.
with Wiz, Tom Livingstone, goli
Off last slap on the onsight. Second go steady. Total class.
with Wiz, Tom Livingstone, goli
Tom Livingstone 21 May, 2014 Lead G/U Ground up, second go. Really, really good!
Ground up, second go. Really, really good!
Mike Goldthorp 24 Jul, 2013 Lead β Nice!! Pleased to hold it together for the last move, had heard rumour of a wild slap but some sneaky footwork its quite controllable. Bottom climbing is no pushover, very good quality, and then spent quite a while milking the rest, would be an amazing route (E6) if you climbed it straight up with no rest.
Nice!! Pleased to hold it together for the last move, had heard rumour of a wild slap but some sneaky footwork its quite controllable. Bottom climbing is no pushover, very good quality, and then spent quite a while milking the rest, would be an amazing route (E6) if you climbed it straight up with no rest.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2013 Lead O/S
with Oli Grounsell
with Oli Grounsell
Cailean Harker 13 Mar, 2012 Lead Fell off the last blind move on the O/S then climbed.
Fell off the last blind move on the O/S then climbed.
Cailean Harker ??, 2012 -
Tom Livingstone 31 Aug, 2011 2nd dog
Alex Mason 31 Aug, 2011 Lead β Yey hoooo! Amazing, it doesn't get better than this. Only took the flash because if I hadn't known there was a slap at the top I don't think I would have laid one on.
Yey hoooo! Amazing, it doesn't get better than this. Only took the flash because if I hadn't known there was a slap at the top I don't think I would have laid one on.
lx 17 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S the escapability ruins it slightly, good climbing though
with will smith
the escapability ruins it slightly, good climbing though
with will smith
Hidden 5 Aug, 2011 2nd
feilx 24 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 24 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Glyn 23 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Stunning arete in the sky. totally wild climbing. Thought i was off on the last move, just about managed to stay in contact and slap up. A bit like climbing two routes since there is a no hands rest before the top arete. Bottom groove is also very good.
with Calum Muskett
Stunning arete in the sky. totally wild climbing. Thought i was off on the last move, just about managed to stay in contact and slap up. A bit like climbing two routes since there is a no hands rest before the top arete. Bottom groove is also very good.
with Calum Muskett
ksjs 12 Jul, 2011 Lead dnf Just not feeling it today, downclimbed from beneath peg at top of initial groove. Head full of irrelevant thoughts, almost feeling guilty at being out today. Arms still tired from bouldering on Sun eve, didn't sleep well last night, no warm up lead - it was all bad!
with Rich
Just not feeling it today, downclimbed from beneath peg at top of initial groove. Head full of irrelevant thoughts, almost feeling guilty at being out today. Arms still tired from bouldering on Sun eve, didn't sleep well last night, no warm up lead - it was all bad!
with Rich
Adam Lincoln 27 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Joe Bertalot
with Joe Bertalot
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Brown 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Henry
with Henry
dan gibson 2 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with nick bullock
with nick bullock
Rich Kirby 3 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Outrageous position!!
Outrageous position!!
soph ?May, 2010 2nd
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
Hidden 13 Aug, 2009 2nd
Hidden 7 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2008 Lead O/S
spidey 24 Sep, 2003 2nd
Si Witcher ??, 1998 Lead O/S Now given E5 6b - good peg and wires below crux
Now given E5 6b - good peg and wires below crux
Dave Musgrove Jnr 2 Apr, 1997 Lead O/S
with Jon Sykes
with Jon Sykes
Neil McA 25 Jun, 1995 2nd O/S
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 31
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 35
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set