UKC

140m.

Rockfax Description
A classic route, combining a strenuous corner with technical face climbing on small pockets and crimps.
Start at the base of a short wall below the corner, marked with red grafitti 'FIN' by the first bolt of Clarissa.
1) IV, 10m. Climb a short crack then move easily left to the base of the prominent corner.
2) VI, 35m. Climb the well-protected corner with steep three-dimensional climbing, moving onto the right wall for one awkward move, then exit left and make a short traverse to a belay.
3) VI+, 20m. Climb steeply for 5m then make a short rightwards traverse on pockets. Continue a few metres direct then move back diagonally left to an uncomfortable stance.
4) VI-, 30m. Climb a shattered crack then make an awkward diagonal traverse right. Climb another crack right then move back left following a black slab before climbing direct to reach a small ledge.
5) V+, 30m. Continue in the same line, following a black slab, then pull through a small roof to reach a scree ledge. Continue direct then step right to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch trad route - French grades: 2, 6a, 6b, 6b, 6a. Note, a lot of the pegs have been removed

W. Gstrein, M. Jokinen 27/Jul/1959.

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel

Feedback

User Date Notes
Olly P 18 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The usual descent really requires two 50m ropes.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The usual descent really requires two 50m ropes.
dinodinosaur 12 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Rockfax descent is wrong, 20m ab off the top to the ledge/boulder choke, then a further 50m ab to the gulley floor. Optional downclimb/ab. Then the final 20m ab to the base of the crag
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rockfax descent is wrong, 20m ab off the top to the ledge/boulder choke, then a further 50m ab to the gulley floor. Optional downclimb/ab. Then the final 20m ab to the base of the crag

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Vinatzer - Castiglioni

Grade: VI+ ***
(Marmolada)

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