Rockfax Description
A classic route, combining a strenuous corner with technical face climbing on small pockets and crimps.
Start at the base of a short wall below the corner, marked with red grafitti 'FIN' by the first bolt of Clarissa.
1) IV, 10m. Climb a short crack then move easily left to the base of the prominent corner.
2) VI, 35m. Climb the well-protected corner with steep three-dimensional climbing, moving onto the right wall for one awkward move, then exit left and make a short traverse to a belay.
3) VI+, 20m. Climb steeply for 5m then make a short rightwards traverse on pockets. Continue a few metres direct then move back diagonally left to an uncomfortable stance.
4) VI-, 30m. Climb a shattered crack then make an awkward diagonal traverse right. Climb another crack right then move back left following a black slab before climbing direct to reach a small ledge.
5) V+, 30m. Continue in the same line, following a black slab, then pull through a small roof to reach a scree ledge. Continue direct then step right to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch trad route - French grades: 2, 6a, 6b, 6b, 6a. Note, a lot of the pegs have been removed

W. Gstrein, M. Jokinen 27/Jul/1959

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

Tim Rodgers 03/Sep/17 -
with Giacomo
Abi Chard 09/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 26/Jul/17 AltLd
beardy mike ??/2017 -
CMoore 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing and situations for a shortish route. Cheers to the other English lads who got my sling and moved our bags out of the rain!

with tunnah
merlin138 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

superb climbing, bolted/peggged but can feel run out at times. creful on the abseil as the rock fax guide sent us down the wrong side, make sure your ropes reach the floor!!

Alex Handley 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Best route of the trip! route went fine but abb'ed off side with 60 metres of rope and didn't reach the bottom, only realised this half way down so had to pussik up. I think you should ab directly down from the Anchor bolt and not too the side. We ended up making a short absail to the block that joins the towers and then make a second absail from there (this is the absail for the other tower)

tunnah 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Annaclaire16 ?/Sep/16 AltLd
with Simon
Finlandia ?/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Wonderful memorable route up a hugely impressive overhanging face amidst beautiful scenery. I thought VII pitch 3 but I was a bit high in the traverse and still finding my Dolomites feet and the big gang of kids shouting encouragement wasn't helping. Bolt belays and some bolts in pitches but you have to climb in between and place trad gear. Grand descent into a huge hole, think caving..

Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
clams ?/Aug/16 AltLd dog

Led P1-2 and 5. Pulled on some pegs P3 and 4

with Jim
Kris 23/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Charlie Low 22/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P5. Really lovely route, not really trad though as there are a lot of bolts!

PilarMartinez 20/Jul/16 AltLd
with juliano
Julesthe1st 20/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Brilliant!! Had the army snapping at our heals most of the way which added to the experience. Had no one in front though, which is always the best way to do Dolomite classics. So had to properly route find etc. Okay so its practically a sport route, but its bloody great!

james.slater 07/Jul/16 AltLd dnf

Got kicked off from the top of pitch 3 by the Italian army who were training and monopolising the entirety of the Cinque Torri! Very angry at the time, but quite a funny story!

Flavio 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

The bloody army fixed a massive letter "B" tarp on my pitch making access to some holds a bit difficult. Really surreal topping out to smoke flares, soldiers abseiling from Huey helicopters, crossing tyroleans all on top of the gunfire and explosions I was imagining in my head. You weren't there man!

samrad 06/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with james G
farmus21 06/Jul/16 AltLd
with samrad
Hidden ?/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/16 Lead
QuentinSu 16/Sep/15 2nd rpt
perrys 30/Aug/15 AltLd
masa-alpin 30/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

I lead P2-4, Simon lead P1, P5-6 (P5 split into 2). Such a shame the route is littered with so many bolts and pegs and so it was practically a clip-up. Without them, it would be the absolutely first-class E3/E4 for sure. The crux P3 involved a 6a move for (very) shorties like me. A massive flake in P4 was wobbling; be warned! The hardest move for me in the entire route was to take out a cam for the P6 belay, which Simon had placed just by stanging on the camping-pitch-size belaying ledge, but I couldn't possibly reach. The abseiling off from the top of the tower was a bit of experience in the middle of 4 towers!

with Simon P
tim newton 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 29/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Lead even pitches. Good route although totally unnecessary that pitch 2 has a few bolts.

dodfoster 26/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 22/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Superb and memorable route. Solid climbing on all the pitches. Great exposure on pitch 3. I led 2,3 and top of 4. Guidebook description of the abseil is wrong. Fails to mention the initial 20 metre abseil.

with Jim Daly
Hidden 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
tatz45 10/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 2 and 4, incredible climbing, incredible position, incredible route!

Hidden 03/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
mike mo ?/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

lovely sustained and intimidating climb

with Pete, Simon Pape
Hidden 28/Jul/15 AltLd
RonnydeWeerd 20/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Great route!!!

with Marin spoelder, Tom ten Voorde
Hidden 16/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Kevster 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

In 2 minds about this, is it a sport route or a trad route? Would be better as a trad route I think, but it is not with all the metal work along the way.

Matt77 28/May/15 AltLd O/S

Great climbing but so many pitons and bolts that it is basically a sport route. I did pitches 2 and 4. I reckon pitch 2 would be around E1 5b without the bolts.

with Shane
islandlynx 27/May/15 AltLd

Led p2 4. Very well protected with bolts and pitons when we did it. felt 6a+ to me.

tuukka 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Erik
Hidden 27/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
james1978 ?/Sep/14 AltLd

Great climbing. No need for the bolts on the first pitch. worth the 3 stars.

with pam
Luis SD 21/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
bede.west ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S


Hidden 11/Jul/14 AltLd dnf
ian d f ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
stevorobs3 ?/Jul/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
professorcobra 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 27/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Decided to leave my two German friends (who I'd originally met in Yosemite) to lead this as they had just arrived and arranged to meet up with me at the end of my trip! Both were climbing on top form!

with Kathi Wagner, Vali Manhardt
Hidden 05/Aug/12 -
Hidden 05/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
williamsd79 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Really good route, you can do it without any gear, it is practically a sport route.

with dyl
stevorobs3 09/Sep/11 AltLd dnf

far more zig zagy than the classic dolomites climbs suggests! and far less protected also! had to ab off after pitch 3.

with Giovanni Milandri
dan gibson 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with richard lade
Hidden 22/Jul/11 2nd
duncan 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

3 hours

Peter Holder 21/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Josh Legg
josh william legg ?/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 01/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
dominic lee 31/Aug/10 Lead O/S
nathanlee 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Pegs and bolt belays. Top route!

with Dom Lee
michaelja 20/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
david morse 14/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

french 6b

Chad123 11/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Good first Dolomites route but exciting as we approached in a thunderstorm while everyone else was leaving! Easy for VII-, second proper pitch is the crux.

with Emily
Ed Babs 19/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Harry
Kopo ?/Aug/09 -
with Emmi
khawk 27/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with DT
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jul/07 Lead O/S
WB ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Guy
Hidden 15/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Jim Walton 22/Aug/04 AltLd O/S
with Neil Mathews
Hidden 05/Jul/04 Lead O/S
simon kimber ?/Sep/03 AltLd O/S
with Paul Burren
pezzerrr ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Dave Kerr 09/Sep/02 AltLd
with Steve Wells
adamwesthead 15/Jun/01 AltLd dog

Lead pitches 2 & 4

with Hoult
jon 04/Jul/95 Lead
with Rog
gergosantha ?/Jul/94 -
4 users have this on their wishlist
High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set