Rockfax Description
An extremely popular route that is perfect for those beginning their Dolomite multi-pitch experience. Although perhaps undeserving of its classic status, it is nonetheless a good route, featuring one hard move on the second pitch.
Start at the highest point of the scree on the left side of the southwest face, under a prominent red niche.
1) IV-, 20m. Climb direct for a few metres into the niche, then move right before continuing direct to reach the line of horizontal roofs. Belay on the right.
2) IV+, 20m. Continue right under the roofs to a break, then climb direct, pulling through a bulge then climb the crack above to belay below an indistinct chimney.
3) III+, 40m. Climb the chimney then continue between two flakes. Where the rock becomes yellower, climb diagonally right below a roof.
4) IV, 30m. Move back left to pull through the bulge then climb direct to a ramp. Follow this left then climb a harder short crack.
5) IV-, 30m. Climb to the left of a loose chimney then follow a ledge right. Climb diagonally left then direct to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
4 Pitch trad route - 4,3,4,3. Popular but disappointing

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ed.vos100 13 Oct AltLd
Tarquin 13 Sep -
with Louvet
with Louvet
mattrvb 12 Sep AltLd O/S
with John Cuthbert
with John Cuthbert
laxmati 10 Sep -
alex goodall 22 Aug Lead O/S Amazing to be on top of the tower. First dolomites route. Okay but a little easy
Amazing to be on top of the tower. First dolomites route. Okay but a little easy
Ellie Berry 22 Aug 2nd
Silver222 1 Aug Lead O/S
JimOakleyAdventures 28 Jul Lead Lead up with Nick and James 2.45 up 1.10 abseil down through gulley Back to top Refugio ✅
Lead up with Nick and James 2.45 up 1.10 abseil down through gulley Back to top Refugio ✅
stevethomas 25 Jul Lead
with Heather
with Heather
mikecollins 22 Jul Lead rpt Climbed with Daf, Laura lead with Joey. Repeat ascent with relative beginners.
Climbed with Daf, Laura lead with Joey. Repeat ascent with relative beginners.
Thorclimbs 22 Jul 2nd
Super-Afro 30 Jun Lead O/S
Olivier 28 Jun Lead O/S
with Debbi
with Debbi
lcullum7 28 Jun AltLd O/S
with Dave Lomax
with Dave Lomax
Bob M 25 Jun AltLd
Norman_P_W 25 Jun AltLd
with Bob M
with Bob M
kirsten 30 Sep, 2018 -
with Justin Hingorani, Alessandro Tentori
with Justin Hingorani, Alessandro Tentori
Alessandro Tentori 30 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt
with Kirsten Donovan
with Kirsten Donovan
JohnBotham 17 Sep, 2018 2nd
Hidden 17 Sep, 2018 Lead
Hidden 17 Sep, 2018 2nd
morganj 16 Sep, 2018 2nd
Alaister 16 Sep, 2018 Lead Really busy route about 9 people on one belay at one point! good route though
Really busy route about 9 people on one belay at one point! good route though
Chris Manasseh 8 Sep, 2018 AltLd Led 2 + 4
with John Armstrong
Led 2 + 4
with John Armstrong
Anita Davis 6 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with Mark & Julian
with Mark & Julian
Hidden 4 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
matthewbpt 22 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S Our rest day climb! We let Tijana lead all the pitches and summited to a double rainbow. Great afternoon out!
with Heinrich, Tijana
Our rest day climb! We let Tijana lead all the pitches and summited to a double rainbow. Great afternoon out!
with Heinrich, Tijana
NickST 12 Aug, 2018 AltLd
with Phil Tucker
with Phil Tucker
Alex Thomson 16 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with jenpen
with jenpen
Hidden 16 Jul, 2018 AltLd
mikecollins 3 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Laura led 3rd (III) pitch
Laura led 3rd (III) pitch
Lauradavies23 3 Jul, 2018 2nd
Kate2017 18 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 3-5
Lead pitches 3-5
Hidden 18 Sep, 2017 AltLd
Chris Hurlock 6 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S Longest trad climb to date Horrible abseil out. Good fun.
with Jim Oakley
Longest trad climb to date Horrible abseil out. Good fun.
with Jim Oakley
gsavell 5 Sep, 2017 AltLd dnf Ran out of day light and bailed on 2nd pitch
Ran out of day light and bailed on 2nd pitch
JimOakleyAdventures 4 Sep, 2017 - 2hrs 49mins from start to final abseil off through gully
with Mr Chris Hurlok Kas
2hrs 49mins from start to final abseil off through gully
with Mr Chris Hurlok Kas
Andre Clarke 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Weagie
with Weagie
James corfe 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd
fweatherall1 4 Sep, 2017 AltLd
Rooney90 31 Aug, 2017 AltLd
TheSingularity 31 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Alessandro Tentori 12 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Emanuele Dal Bianco
with Emanuele Dal Bianco
S Lynch 31 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Christine Close 31 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with Steve Lynch
with Steve Lynch
wilf 13 Jul, 2017 Lead lead nick who missed out last time. ascended via correct route this time.
with nick f
lead nick who missed out last time. ascended via correct route this time.
with nick f
beardy mike ??, 2017 -
HP9 26 Sep, 2016 AltLd L 2 and 4. Pitch 2 very nice.. Worthwhile route.
with Mark Hayes
L 2 and 4. Pitch 2 very nice.. Worthwhile route.
with Mark Hayes
zeitoun 21 Sep, 2016 2nd Superbe crag with beautiful historical routes. Slightly polished rock!
with Hubert N.
Superbe crag with beautiful historical routes. Slightly polished rock!
with Hubert N.
Moritz L 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Dan0Me
with Dan0Me
Dan0Me 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 4 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
merlin138 4 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S First climb in the Dolomites, super easy. The one hard move is true, but all relative, it's only a hard HS move! The rest of the route is simple and straight forward, we took gear, but tbh you don't need it if you're confident. Cemented rings all the way up, run out, but the block scrambling/jug pulling means you never worry. Super busy, at one point 3 teams were all topping out at the same time!
First climb in the Dolomites, super easy. The one hard move is true, but all relative, it's only a hard HS move! The rest of the route is simple and straight forward, we took gear, but tbh you don't need it if you're confident. Cemented rings all the way up, run out, but the block scrambling/jug pulling means you never worry. Super busy, at one point 3 teams were all topping out at the same time!
David Stevens 3 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Steph Mitchell 3 Sep, 2016 2nd
Hidden 24 Aug, 2016 Lead
PalfreyN 22 Aug, 2016 AltLd
gateaublaster 13 Aug, 2016 -
Oo 22 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Tim_C7
with Tim_C7
Tim_C7 22 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Oo
with Oo
Lynn Robin 20 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
PanzerHanzler 20 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Pitches 1 & 2
Pitches 1 & 2
MoWalker3 18 Jul, 2016 -
with Dan
with Dan
evhall 17 Jul, 2016 AltLd Very easy - about HS at most but very good fun
with Tim Bray
Very easy - about HS at most but very good fun
with Tim Bray
kingjam 4 Jul, 2016 2nd rpt
with Matt Naylor
with Matt Naylor
Mike Roger ??, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 10 Dec, 2015 AltLd
wilf 10 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Andy 1st 2 pitches as 1. Me P2 (3) Tom went L at yellow patch (as according to our guide book) up chimney with block to easier ground. P4 (5) me. Mostly solid friendly rock, protection where you needed it.
with Tom, Andy
Andy 1st 2 pitches as 1. Me P2 (3) Tom went L at yellow patch (as according to our guide book) up chimney with block to easier ground. P4 (5) me. Mostly solid friendly rock, protection where you needed it.
with Tom, Andy
Hidden 1 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
PPP 25 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Hidden
with Hidden
Maarten2 7 Aug, 2015 Lead Fun, a real mini Dolomite climb: not a sports route!
with Sander, Kitti
Fun, a real mini Dolomite climb: not a sports route!
with Sander, Kitti
kingjam 25 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Matt Naylor
with Matt Naylor
SeanSmith ?Jul, 2015 AltLd
bobpilgrem 24 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Route busy on arrival, so did another warm up climb and then had this one to ourselves on the afternoon. Great intro to Dolomites multi pitch with a straightforward descent from tower.
Route busy on arrival, so did another warm up climb and then had this one to ourselves on the afternoon. Great intro to Dolomites multi pitch with a straightforward descent from tower.
JonLongshanks 24 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Busy on arrival, so did another warm up climb and then had this one to ourselves on the afternoon. Great intro to Dolomites multi pitch with a straightforward abseil descent from tower. Cold out of the sun on way down. Might have taken a slightly wandering line at the top. Feet crucified in tight shoes.... Missed the last lift, so a long walk back down :(
with Bob from Ilkley
Busy on arrival, so did another warm up climb and then had this one to ourselves on the afternoon. Great intro to Dolomites multi pitch with a straightforward abseil descent from tower. Cold out of the sun on way down. Might have taken a slightly wandering line at the top. Feet crucified in tight shoes.... Missed the last lift, so a long walk back down :(
with Bob from Ilkley
hazeysunshine 18 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Alex
with Alex
m675bowsl 17 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Stayed at Rifugio Scoiattoli. Fantastic food and good accommodation. Route was quite straightforward, but in a fantastic position.
with SianD
Stayed at Rifugio Scoiattoli. Fantastic food and good accommodation. Route was quite straightforward, but in a fantastic position.
with SianD
owen gibson 6 Aug, 2014 2nd
with CJoyce
with CJoyce
Hidden 6 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
gmatthew 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
tcn_2002 8 Jul, 2014 Lead
climberuk 15 Sep, 2013 AltLd
with niallk
with niallk
niallk 15 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Led last pitch.
with climberuk, Pam
Led last pitch.
with climberuk, Pam
Hidden 15 Sep, 2013 AltLd
Fran Sgr 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Jay C
with Jay C
Jay C 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
CathS 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) 1 Aug, 2013 Lead
with Linda F
with Linda F
Keendan ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
moviti ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S my 1st multi-pitch climbing in Dolomiti. easiest choice to the peak.
with Norico
my 1st multi-pitch climbing in Dolomiti. easiest choice to the peak.
with Norico
ndm ?Aug, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead
Brian Taylor 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
ClimberJimmyB 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 27 Jun, 2013 AltLd
Hugh Macgregor 27 Jun, 2013 AltLd
alicethwaites 16 Jun, 2013 2nd
tim exley 16 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
victorhearnyeates ?Jun, 2013 Lead
MariaT 7 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Fun introduction to Dolomite multipitch
with Kelly Smith, dpiddock
Fun introduction to Dolomite multipitch
with Kelly Smith, dpiddock
dpiddock 7 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Kelly Smith 6 Sep, 2012 2nd
JoelO ?Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2012 Lead
Hidden 15 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 15 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Pete Pozman 1 Aug, 2012 2nd
Will Hunt 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1, P3. 1st route in Dolomites. Paled in comparison to what we did later!
with dunnyg
Led P1, P3. 1st route in Dolomites. Paled in comparison to what we did later!
with dunnyg
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Elsier 16 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Koon
with Koon
Koon 16 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Elsier
with Elsier
Swotson 16 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Fun climbing. Best bit was the overhang/bulge at the end of the first pitch.
with Ian Athroll
Fun climbing. Best bit was the overhang/bulge at the end of the first pitch.
with Ian Athroll
Hidden 11 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
MikeDowsett 9 Jul, 2012 AltLd
with Ruth Gordon, John Harrison
with Ruth Gordon, John Harrison
John Nuttall 6 Jul, 2012 Lead
with Sharon
with Sharon
RobbieT ?Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
RobbieT ?May, 2012 AltLd β
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd O/S
stevorobs3 9 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S line confusing, top out amazing
with Giovanni Milandri
line confusing, top out amazing
with Giovanni Milandri
ben.richards 17 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
LucaC 17 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
ScottyD 16 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S First climb of trip
First climb of trip
Hidden 7 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Aug, 2011 AltLd dnf
Little AndyH 7 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Camilla West
with Camilla West
roberts1234567890 21 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
with Martin Hill
with Martin Hill
RM199 ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
akhutton88 8 Aug, 2010 2nd
dickie01 25 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
with Julian King
with Julian King
JLS 20 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Jacqui
with Jacqui
Hidden 4 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
Tarquin 22 Jun, 2010 Lead
Hidden 8 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 2009 AltLd
kylieo 21 Aug, 2009 AltLd Led pitch 3.
with PhilR
Led pitch 3.
with PhilR
Hidden 23 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
the abmmc ?Jul, 2009 AltLd One hard move at beginning then pure pleasure.
with karly54
One hard move at beginning then pure pleasure.
with karly54
andyebbens 28 Jun, 2009 AltLd
with Steve E
with Steve E
Sankey 28 Jun, 2009 AltLd
with Andy E
with Andy E
TiffTiff 10 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with tbs105
with tbs105
tbs105 10 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S first route in the dolomites!
first route in the dolomites!
PaulHermes 21 Sep, 2008 2nd
with Martin VCCC
with Martin VCCC
PaulHermes 21 Sep, 2008 2nd
Marq 12 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S AMAM UIAA IV in guidebook
AMAM UIAA IV in guidebook
ChrisBrooke 6 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Keeley Scholes
with Keeley Scholes
31770 24 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
ellentaylor ?Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S first pitch steep led 2nd pitch - no gear, pretty crap
with Ollie & Adam
first pitch steep led 2nd pitch - no gear, pretty crap
with Ollie & Adam
paola 10 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S con Marta e quelli di Camposampiero
con Marta e quelli di Camposampiero
Protheroe 9 Jul, 2008 AltLd β
with Kyle Mosley
with Kyle Mosley
Hidden 6 Jul, 2008 2nd
Hidden 2 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 Lead
Em66 15 Jun, 2008 2nd Climbed whilst snowing, in june!
with Freg1
Climbed whilst snowing, in june!
with Freg1
jl 26 May, 2008 Lead O/S Lead all pitches
with pennyb
Lead all pitches
with pennyb
pennyb 26 May, 2008 2nd O/S
with jl
with jl
John HW 11 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S Instructing lead climbing - Kate and Russ on Vajolet Tiger
with Cath
Instructing lead climbing - Kate and Russ on Vajolet Tiger
with Cath
edmund94 4 Jun, 2007 Lead RP
edmund94 3 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
DavidR 18 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
KeithW 17 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S excellent route, couple of great moves, stunning views.
with Tom Coulthard
excellent route, couple of great moves, stunning views.
with Tom Coulthard
Hidden 17 Jul, 2006 AltLd
FrankW 14 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Joe
with Joe
Stuart Macfarlane ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Anne-Marie
with Anne-Marie
Hidden 26 Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
cpoad 12 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Clare F
with Clare F
Hidden ?Sep, 2004 Lead
IanMcC 28 Jul, 2004 AltLd
Antony Mariani ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with rlrs
with rlrs
rlrs ?Jun, 2004 AltLd
clive-greenwood ?Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Steve Wright
with Steve Wright
tjekel ??, 2003 -
Chris the Tall ?Sep, 2002 AltLd Had tried the previous year but too cold to even leave the ground!
with Paul
Had tried the previous year but too cold to even leave the ground!
with Paul
Hidden 3 Jun, 2002 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S
MontyH 25 Jun, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Andy Lawrance
with Andy Lawrance
Hidden ?Jun, 2000 2nd
jcw ?Jul, 1999 - In the clag and wet
with Francois Damilano
In the clag and wet
with Francois Damilano
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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set