A short but elegant route which follows the prominent corner on excellent rock.
Start below the large corner between the sport climbs on the left and the classic Via delle Guide around the corner on the right.
1) V+, 45m. Climb 5m on the north face then move left, bridging the corner, to reach a horizontal break. Follow the crack in the corner to belay in a niche.
2) V+, 20m. Continue direct for 5m then traverse right to reach the arete. From here climb directed to a good belay. The slightly harder Scoiattoli variant goes direct from the cave, following the crack to reach the second belay.
3) III+, 45m. Follow the arete then move right onto the west face and continue on juggy rock to reach the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
3 Pitch trad route - 5,5+,3
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