Rockfax Description
An excellent route up the centre of Torre del Barancio's north face. The situations are surprisingly exposed for such a short route and the handholds on the first pitch can feel somewhat less than positive, but the rock is excellent and the climbing interesting throughout.
Start in the middle of the north face.
1) IV+, 25m. Climb to a niche 2m up on the right, then traverse left heading for a second niche. The first section feels quite exposed but is protected by a hidden ring 8m up.
Exit the niche on the right then make a rising traverse left then back right to a ledge and a cement ring belay.
2) IV+, 25m. Climb diagonally left from the belay with enjoyable climbing passing plenty of fixed gear to reach two cracks. Climb the right-hand of these, overcome a bulge at half-height then continue to another cement ring belay on the large ledge formed by the horizontal break in the face.
3) IV, 20m. Ascend rightwards then continue direct to reach a large ledge. Continue up a series of small ledges, moving slightly left.
4) IV, 25m. Climb direct up the centre of the tower with numerous possible lines to reach a flake at 20m. Continue on the left side of the tower to a series of ledges. Traverse the ledge rightwards then climb direct to a second ledge with a ring belay on the flat of the ledge on the arete itself.
5) IV+, 15m. Climb direct above the ring with steep climbing on the left side of the arete to the summit. Belay on a cement ring at the back right (SW) corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch trad route - 4, 4+, 3+,4,4

Ticklists

Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Dolomites Trip

Feedback

UserDateNotes
David Clover 21 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Gear is there when its needed. First two pitches are the most techncial/demanding but not as polished or as run out as the guidebook suggests. P4 is closer to 40m than 25. Take plenty of slings for threads, the only worthwhile gear for a lot of the upper route
 
Show beta
βeta: Gear is there when its needed. First two pitches are the most techncial/demanding but not as polished or as run out as the guidebook suggests. P4 is closer to 40m than 25. Take plenty of slings for threads, the only worthwhile gear for a lot of the upper route
Bob M 7 Jul Show βeta
βeta: On the 2nd pitch, the worn holds and the fixed gear suggest that most people climb the left hand of the twin cracks. Pitch 4 is nearer 35m than 25m.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: On the 2nd pitch, the worn holds and the fixed gear suggest that most people climb the left hand of the twin cracks. Pitch 4 is nearer 35m than 25m.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
David Clover 20 Sep Lead O/S A good tower climb.
A good tower climb.
Oscar Popels 16 Sep AltLd O/S
badgerjockey 16 Sep AltLd O/S Great rock and a fun rompy route. Loads of fixed gear and threads. Interesting abseil from the top to the neighbouring tower then an awe inspiring 45m ab from an iron spike which feels a lot higher.
Great rock and a fun rompy route. Loads of fixed gear and threads. Interesting abseil from the top to the neighbouring tower then an awe inspiring 45m ab from an iron spike which feels a lot higher.
dementedtoddler 15 Sep AltLd O/S
with Anthony Hucklesby , Tom Handley
with Anthony Hucklesby , Tom Handley
Chris Manasseh 13 Sep AltLd Led 1,3,5
Led 1,3,5
Private Flounder 13 Sep AltLd
HansStuttgart 8 Sep AltLd actually good rock in the Dolomites!
actually good rock in the Dolomites!
Super-Afro 30 Jun Lead O/S
Bob M 25 Jun AltLd Great climbing, especially the first two pitches. Exciting abseil descent - from above it looks a very long way but 50 m ropes reach with plenty to spare.
Great climbing, especially the first two pitches. Exciting abseil descent - from above it looks a very long way but 50 m ropes reach with plenty to spare.
Norman_P_W 25 Jun AltLd
with Bob M
with Bob M
Cragcloud 24 Jun AltLd O/S
with Martin Markmann Larsen
with Martin Markmann Larsen
mikecollins 4 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Might have been an off day but found it quite intimidating (polished and damp). Never climb without coffee and dump first.
Might have been an off day but found it quite intimidating (polished and damp). Never climb without coffee and dump first.
Lauradavies23 4 Aug, 2018 2nd
tsl42 2 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf P1 and P2 then the rain came!
with Dammage
P1 and P2 then the rain came!
with Dammage
sgl 17 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf Abbed off one pitch from the top in a snowstorm
with Susie
Abbed off one pitch from the top in a snowstorm
with Susie
johnE 24 Aug, 2017 AltLd G/U The first pitch is very polished and quite scary until you spot the hidden piton.
with Les
The first pitch is very polished and quite scary until you spot the hidden piton.
with Les
A. Summerell 18 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd
rockafunked 31 Jul, 2017 AltLd The fourth pitch is longer than 25m - it's around 35-40m.
The fourth pitch is longer than 25m - it's around 35-40m.
S Lynch 31 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Christine Close 31 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
with Steve Lynch
with Steve Lynch
JLS 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Led all pitches, went off route for the last pitch and climbed some choss on the right hand side. Note to self: take copy of topo next time...
with ZJO
Led all pitches, went off route for the last pitch and climbed some choss on the right hand side. Note to self: take copy of topo next time...
with ZJO
ZJO 15 Jul, 2017 2nd
with JLS
with JLS
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Moritz L 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Dan0Me
with Dan0Me
Dan0Me 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Tommaso Regesta
with Tommaso Regesta
stevethomas 8 Aug, 2016 Lead
with Heather
with Heather
Oo 21 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Tim_C7
with Tim_C7
Tim_C7 21 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Oo
with Oo
Mike W ?Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 30 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Barely polished at all... Ran p1 &2 together, 2nd p3, ran p4 &5 together. P1-3 great but 4,5 less so. Still great route
with Iain
Barely polished at all... Ran p1 &2 together, 2nd p3, ran p4 &5 together. P1-3 great but 4,5 less so. Still great route
with Iain
tjekel 16 Jul, 2015 -
Emma Marlow 9 Sep, 2014 2nd
pezzerrr ?Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
efrance24234 15 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
tcn_2002 8 Jul, 2014 Lead
Hidden 5 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2014 Lead
kingjam ?Jun, 2014 Lead
with Matt Naylor
with Matt Naylor
Fran Sgr 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Jay C
with Jay C
Hidden 3 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
katherinesydney 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led P1, which felt a bit scary to me: little decent gear between fixed stuff and I'm too much of a wimp to just use those! Took ages so James led the rest...but took ages due to the alpine club's ambiguous guidebook description. Went off route for a pitch, I think. Some toys fell out of the pram and we couldn't find the abseil point at the back. Abbed instead down the route from a ledge on the right, below the summit, in two drops. 60s just reached the ground.
with leeds james
Led P1, which felt a bit scary to me: little decent gear between fixed stuff and I'm too much of a wimp to just use those! Took ages so James led the rest...but took ages due to the alpine club's ambiguous guidebook description. Went off route for a pitch, I think. Some toys fell out of the pram and we couldn't find the abseil point at the back. Abbed instead down the route from a ledge on the right, below the summit, in two drops. 60s just reached the ground.
with leeds james
Roger Cruse 30 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Kris
with Kris
Hidden 7 Aug, 2013 2nd
Ian JL 7 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
brianrunner 2 Aug, 2013 AltLd a really nice route. didn't find it polished. the first pitch is steep VS and the gear is not that obvious from the bottom but it does appear!
with martina
a really nice route. didn't find it polished. the first pitch is steep VS and the gear is not that obvious from the bottom but it does appear!
with martina
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead
Hidden 17 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
Keendan 19 Aug, 2012 Solo rpt Amazing
Amazing
Keendan 15 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Multipitch instruction with Josh Elliot
Multipitch instruction with Josh Elliot
Hidden 4 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2012 AltLd
stevorobs3 7 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S amazing climb all the way. also the top out is brilliant!
with Giovanni Milandri
amazing climb all the way. also the top out is brilliant!
with Giovanni Milandri
Jamie Degel ?Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Norbert Ramm (DAV Hamburg)
with Norbert Ramm (DAV Hamburg)
Hidden 19 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
ben.richards 16 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
LucaC 16 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Little AndyH 7 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Camilla West
with Camilla West
Hidden 25 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Marq 1 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S mamam
mamam
timofy 30 Aug, 2009 Lead
givemetea 23 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
garywong 23 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Barry D 28 Jul, 2009 AltLd First pitch crux,easier after 2nd pitch.Belays and route line not always obvious...
with Chris M & Derek
First pitch crux,easier after 2nd pitch.Belays and route line not always obvious...
with Chris M & Derek
ratm 20 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
with Matt Forshaw
with Matt Forshaw
MartF 20 Jul, 2009 2nd
with ratm, Matt
with ratm, Matt
andyebbens 12 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with Steve E
with Steve E
Sankey 12 Jul, 2009 AltLd Very good quality climbing. First pitch is very spooky with the pegs invisible from below. Great 50 m free ab from the summit!
with Andy E
Very good quality climbing. First pitch is very spooky with the pegs invisible from below. Great 50 m free ab from the summit!
with Andy E
Ewan Russell 5 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S pitches 1,2 and 4 petes prussik blocked whilst abseiling and the clouds raining
pitches 1,2 and 4 petes prussik blocked whilst abseiling and the clouds raining
the abmmc ?Jul, 2009 2nd O/S Great going up but tettible going down with horrendous mistake by me on abseiling. Shaky pint of beer in refuge afterwards.
with karly54
Great going up but tettible going down with horrendous mistake by me on abseiling. Shaky pint of beer in refuge afterwards.
with karly54
Selbatron 14 Aug, 2008 2nd
Neil McA 12 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
with Pete Cole
with Pete Cole
Protheroe ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Kyle Mosley
with Kyle Mosley
cat22 ?Jul, 2008 2nd O/S
Em66 22 Jun, 2008 2nd
with Freg1
with Freg1
cpoad 25 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Bold first pitch until you find the hidden ring bolt
with Clare F
Bold first pitch until you find the hidden ring bolt
with Clare F
FrankW 14 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Joe
with Joe
AndyP 12 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S The most polished route in existance? It is probably VS4c bumped up to HVS for the polish. Abbed down the route in a thunder and lightening rainstorm. Ropes jammed on the second Abseil and required a frantic pull to free them with thunder and lightening booming all around. Walked back to the car (at the refuge) in my rockboots. My old Sprayway waterproof is no longer waterproof.
with Jamie
The most polished route in existance? It is probably VS4c bumped up to HVS for the polish. Abbed down the route in a thunder and lightening rainstorm. Ropes jammed on the second Abseil and required a frantic pull to free them with thunder and lightening booming all around. Walked back to the car (at the refuge) in my rockboots. My old Sprayway waterproof is no longer waterproof.
with Jamie
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons 12 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S First pitch is polished with doubtful gear. Due to the polish quite hard. Hit by a thunderstorm and ha d an epic decent and run back to the car. Soaked to the skin in seconds.
with Andy porter
First pitch is polished with doubtful gear. Due to the polish quite hard. Hit by a thunderstorm and ha d an epic decent and run back to the car. Soaked to the skin in seconds.
with Andy porter
John HW 18 Jun, 2006 -
with Tarquin
with Tarquin
Hidden 19 Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?Sep, 2002 Lead O/S Direct line on upper pitches - brilliant route
with Paul
Direct line on upper pitches - brilliant route
with Paul
Hidden 10 Jul, 2001 AltLd O/S
Andy Say 31 Jul, 1989 Lead O/S
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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set