Rockfax Description
An excellent route up the centre of Torre del Barancio's north face. The situations are surprisingly exposed for such a short route and the handholds on the first pitch can feel somewhat less than positive, but the rock is excellent and the climbing interesting throughout.
Start in the middle of the north face.
1) IV+, 25m. Climb to a niche 2m up on the right, then traverse left heading for a second niche. The first section feels quite exposed but is protected by a hidden ring 8m up.
Exit the niche on the right then make a rising traverse left then back right to a ledge and a cement ring belay.
2) IV+, 25m. Climb diagonally left from the belay with enjoyable climbing passing plenty of fixed gear to reach two cracks. Climb the right-hand of these, overcome a bulge at half-height then continue to another cement ring belay on the large ledge formed by the horizontal break in the face.
3) IV, 20m. Ascend rightwards then continue direct to reach a large ledge. Continue up a series of small ledges, moving slightly left.
4) IV, 25m. Climb direct up the centre of the tower with numerous possible lines to reach a flake at 20m. Continue on the left side of the tower to a series of ledges. Traverse the ledge rightwards then climb direct to a second ledge with a ring belay on the flat of the ledge on the arete itself.
5) IV+, 15m. Climb direct above the ring with steep climbing on the left side of the arete to the summit. Belay on a cement ring at the back right (SW) corner. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
5 Pitch trad route - 4, 4+, 3+,4,4

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel.

sgl 17/Sep Lead dnf

Abbed off one pitch from the top in a snowstorm

with Susie
johnE 24/Aug AltLd G/U

The first pitch is very polished and quite scary until you spot the hidden piton.

with Les
Hidden 15/Aug AltLd
rockafunked 31/Jul AltLd

The fourth pitch is longer than 25m - it's around 35-40m.

Hidden 31/Jul Lead O/S
Christine Close 31/Jul 2nd O/S
with Steve Lynch
JLS 15/Jul Lead O/S

Led all pitches, went off route for the last pitch and climbed some choss on the right hand side. Note to self: take copy of topo next time...

with Sven J.
Hidden 15/Jul 2nd
Hidden 05/Jul AltLd O/S
Moritz L 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Dan0Me 11/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Tommaso Regesta
stevethomas 08/Aug/16 Lead
with Heather
Oo 21/Jul/16 2nd
with Tim_C7
Tim_C7 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Toby D
Mike W ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 30/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Barely polished at all... Ran p1 &2 together, 2nd p3, ran p4 &5 together. P1-3 great but 4,5 less so. Still great route

with Iain
tjekel 16/Jul/15 -
pezzerrr ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
efrance24234 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
tcn_2002 08/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
kingjam ?/Jun/14 Lead
Fran Sgr 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Jay C
Jay C 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Fran S
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
katherinesydney 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1, which felt a bit scary to me: little decent gear between fixed stuff and I'm too much of a wimp to just use those! Took ages so James led the rest...but took ages due to the alpine club's ambiguous guidebook description. Went off route for a pitch, I think. Some toys fell out of the pram and we couldn't find the abseil point at the back. Abbed instead down the route from a ledge on the right, below the summit, in two drops. 60s just reached the ground.

with leeds james
Roger Cruse 30/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Kris
Hidden 07/Aug/13 2nd
Ian JL 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
brianrunner 02/Aug/13 AltLd

a really nice route. didn't find it polished. the first pitch is steep VS and the gear is not that obvious from the bottom but it does appear!

with martina
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead
Fiona Reid 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led 1, 3 and 5. Very nice route.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Nice pleasant route

with Fiona
Paula Ryan ?/Jul/13 AltLd
with Robin Brooke
Keendan 19/Aug/12 Solo rpt


Keendan 15/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Multipitch instruction with Josh Elliot

Hidden 04/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/12 AltLd
stevorobs3 07/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

amazing climb all the way. also the top out is brilliant!

with Giovanni Milandri
Jamie Degel ?/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Norbert Ramm (DAV Hamburg)
Hidden 19/Aug/11 2nd O/S
ben.richards 16/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
LJC 16/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Little AndyH 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Camilla West
Hidden 25/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Marq 01/Sep/09 AltLd O/S


timofy 30/Aug/09 Lead
givemetea 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
garywong 23/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Barry D 28/Jul/09 AltLd

First pitch crux,easier after 2nd pitch.Belays and route line not always obvious...

with Chris M & Derek
ratm 20/Jul/09 2nd O/S
with Matt Forshaw
MartF 20/Jul/09 2nd
with Ben Crook, Matt
andyebbens 12/Jul/09 AltLd
with Steve E
Sankey 12/Jul/09 AltLd

Very good quality climbing. First pitch is very spooky with the pegs invisible from below. Great 50 m free ab from the summit!

with Andy E
Ewan Russell 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

pitches 1,2 and 4 petes prussik blocked whilst abseiling and the clouds raining

the abmmc ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Great going up but tettible going down with horrendous mistake by me on abseiling. Shaky pint of beer in refuge afterwards.

Selbatron 14/Aug/08 2nd
Protheroe ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Kyle Mosley
cat22 ?/Jul/08 2nd O/S
with Mike
Em66 22/Jun/08 2nd
with Mat
cpoad 25/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Bold first pitch until you find the hidden ring bolt

with Clare F
FrankW 14/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Joe
AndyP 12/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

The most polished route in existance? It is probably VS4c bumped up to HVS for the polish. Abbed down the route in a thunder and lightening rainstorm. Ropes jammed on the second Abseil and required a frantic pull to free them with thunder and lightening booming all around. Walked back to the car (at the refuge) in my rockboots. My old Sprayway waterproof is no longer waterproof.

with Jamie
Jamie Simpson 12/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

First pitch is polished with doubtful gear. Due to the polish quite hard. Hit by a thunderstorm and ha d an epic decent and run back to the car. Soaked to the skin in seconds.

with Andy porter
John HW 18/Jun/06 -
with Tarquin
Chris the Tall ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S

Direct line on upper pitches - brilliant route

with Paul
Hidden 10/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
Andy Say 31/Jul/89 Lead O/S
5 users have this on their wishlist
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set