An very popular route up the arete and north face of Torre Lusy. Good rock and plentiful fixed gear lead to a lovely little summit, with an exciting hanging abseil down the other side. Worth a queue or two...
Start to the right of a cave at the left side of Torre Lusy.
1) IV-, 25m. Climb direct, aiming for a niche above. Move left around the niche and climb towards the arete . Move back right to a stance below a sloping corner.
2) III, 25m. Climb rightwards up the corner then move back left up a ramp to the arete . Continue just left of the arete to a stance on the edge.
3) III+, 20m. Climb a slab left of the arete for 10m then move back right until crossing the arete again to a stance just on the right side.
4) IV-, 25m. Keeping on the right of the arete , make a rising traverse right on good holds then as you near the right edge, climb direct for a few metres before moving back left to a stance on the left arete.
5) IV-, 20m. Climb direct on the arete to a good stance.
6) III, 15m. Follow a ledge left, then climb a short wall direct to reach the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A six pitch trad route that is well eqiped with fixed gear - Fr3+, Fr3, Fr3+, Fr4, Fr3, Fr2. It takes the obvious line of least resistance & polish up the slabby north side of the tower. Highly recommended!
Abseil ring / hooks can be found to the west via a little chimney and a quick free hanging 40m decent to base.
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