30m.

Rockfax Description
A classy, sustained pitch in an idyllic setting. The route follows the sheer-looking, blank wall to the right of the picturesque waterfall. Start on boulders in the stream at the base of the line.
32m. Climb the line of thin cracks to small ledges and continue past a peg to another small ledge midway up the wall. The upper section of the crack gradually steepens but the holds get bigger and better. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the crack to small grassy ledge, ticky moves past poor peg, follow sustained diangnal crack to the top.
Still needs a extra stake, there is a new one up high that's good, but the one in the hollow is only a foot long, be warned.

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Culm - When the tide's in., Ultimate E3 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

Feedback

UserDateNotes
climbercool 1 May Show βeta
βeta: top roped this today because i was too scared to lead it, the rock was terrible, i was pulling out loose rock from start to finish, felt like i couldn't trust anything. Glad i didn't lead it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: top roped this today because i was too scared to lead it, the rock was terrible, i was pulling out loose rock from start to finish, felt like i couldn't trust anything. Glad i didn't lead it.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dizz 21 Aug 2nd RP Pulled a block off and lobbed onto an RP2 - ran out of brave beans and Julian led it.
with Julian
Pulled a block off and lobbed onto an RP2 - ran out of brave beans and Julian led it.
with Julian
Hidden 21 Jul Lead O/S
R0BJ0N 26 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dom Acland
with Dom Acland
Dominic Acland 26 Sep, 2018 2nd Followed Rob through the unorthodox left-hand finish :-)
with R0BJ0N
Followed Rob through the unorthodox left-hand finish :-)
with R0BJ0N
J.A.Thomson 7 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S rely nice to get to do this rout had to look at a picture of a good climbing partner of when he did it a massive picture in his livining room so had to be done a rely good climb rely nice finish injoy all
rely nice to get to do this rout had to look at a picture of a good climbing partner of when he did it a massive picture in his livining room so had to be done a rely good climb rely nice finish injoy all
Hidden ?Sep, 2018 2nd rpt
Martin Bagshaw 23 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Similar climbing to the dervish, but better. Glad to have the chucklevision theme tune out of my internal jukebox after the passing of the great Barry, though the pressure drop song has about the same number of lyrics.
Similar climbing to the dervish, but better. Glad to have the chucklevision theme tune out of my internal jukebox after the passing of the great Barry, though the pressure drop song has about the same number of lyrics.
Fakey Rocks 23 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S Had a little scare leaving the halfway foot "ledge" when my next handhold broke but i stayed on, + then tried an alternative that worked better. Not my kind of lead, some thin gear and footholds. Quite hard moves too. Sustained. Not going on my wish list until I've climbed it without needing a head torch, as I climbed top half + finished in the dark. Probably not going on my wish list then neither. Good route though.
Had a little scare leaving the halfway foot "ledge" when my next handhold broke but i stayed on, + then tried an alternative that worked better. Not my kind of lead, some thin gear and footholds. Quite hard moves too. Sustained. Not going on my wish list until I've climbed it without needing a head torch, as I climbed top half + finished in the dark. Probably not going on my wish list then neither. Good route though.
Stanners 21 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S a fine start to what would be a glorious few days N Devon trad trip. Very intense on the feet and a bold start. What a location! unique vibes with the waterfall
a fine start to what would be a glorious few days N Devon trad trip. Very intense on the feet and a bold start. What a location! unique vibes with the waterfall
Hidden 21 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
alice fuller 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Big ups to Andy for calm you-can-do this belay. Crux moves protected by one nut and biggest sticking out rusty peg ever.. decided a place not to fall off on...tincy footholds. Won't forget this climb.. beauty place and walk in
with deema, andy banister
Big ups to Andy for calm you-can-do this belay. Crux moves protected by one nut and biggest sticking out rusty peg ever.. decided a place not to fall off on...tincy footholds. Won't forget this climb.. beauty place and walk in
with deema, andy banister
aiyer 20 May, 2018 Lead β Inspected the line on abseil and had a rope from the belay stake up to the top of the route as top out is loose... Lovely moves, unrelenting - the moves keep coming...
with JohnFJP
Inspected the line on abseil and had a rope from the belay stake up to the top of the route as top out is loose... Lovely moves, unrelenting - the moves keep coming...
with JohnFJP
JohnFJP 20 May, 2018 2nd
with aiyer
with aiyer
janegallwey 12 May, 2018 2nd
Hidden 12 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 25 Jun, 2017 -
Jess Carr 6 May, 2017 2nd O/S
with Rich Pollard
with Rich Pollard
Hidden 6 May, 2017 Lead O/S
sparkass 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Took a while to find the anchor stakes but they are there - 3 if I remember correctly? Amazing setting, amazing line, quite hard - awesome!
with skelf
Took a while to find the anchor stakes but they are there - 3 if I remember correctly? Amazing setting, amazing line, quite hard - awesome!
with skelf
skelf 11 Sep, 2016 2nd
datoon 14 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 14 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Superb. River in spate for added atmosphere.
with datoon
Superb. River in spate for added atmosphere.
with datoon
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Jun, 2015 2nd
Russell Blackaller 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with ferdia
with ferdia
ferdia 16 May, 2015 2nd
riddle 23 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S Lost at S,P,S and had to second this great route.
Lost at S,P,S and had to second this great route.
mikeyjbs 23 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Owen W-G 13 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Well chuffed with this one, lots of doubt and digging deep, had a few moments, felt a step up from the E2s I'm used to, hardest and best route this year
with Tony Seale
Well chuffed with this one, lots of doubt and digging deep, had a few moments, felt a step up from the E2s I'm used to, hardest and best route this year
with Tony Seale
Duncan Campbell 13 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Brilliant little route. A couple of poor pegs but lots of natural gear available. Great end to a sweet day at Sharpnose!
with Wft
Brilliant little route. A couple of poor pegs but lots of natural gear available. Great end to a sweet day at Sharpnose!
with Wft
Hidden 13 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2014 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 20 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
Tom Last 15 May, 2014 Lead dnf Damn damn damn! Got to within 3 metres of the top, but was totally spent. Great climb, wouldn't say the protection was excellent to be honest, at least not between the grassy breaks. First peg is dead. Didn't come across any loose rock. Bit pissed off but don't get much E3 milage, so could be worse.
with Andy2
Damn damn damn! Got to within 3 metres of the top, but was totally spent. Great climb, wouldn't say the protection was excellent to be honest, at least not between the grassy breaks. First peg is dead. Didn't come across any loose rock. Bit pissed off but don't get much E3 milage, so could be worse.
with Andy2
AlexD 19 Sep, 2013 2nd
with Ed Babs
with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 19 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Great. Found 4 stakes at the top and equalised with spare rope. 2 in hollow, 1 up slope and 1 behind mound towards ford.
with AlexD
Great. Found 4 stakes at the top and equalised with spare rope. 2 in hollow, 1 up slope and 1 behind mound towards ford.
with AlexD
Hidden 18 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
alexjz 18 Aug, 2013 2nd rpt This felt harder than when I lead it a month ago. I must have been in better shape then. Very happy with the lead back then. A couple of hard sections: passing the second peg and near the end moving from a big flat slanted edge high up to a constricting flaring crack which I got a poor finger lock in.
with Rufus Lusk
This felt harder than when I lead it a month ago. I must have been in better shape then. Very happy with the lead back then. A couple of hard sections: passing the second peg and near the end moving from a big flat slanted edge high up to a constricting flaring crack which I got a poor finger lock in.
with Rufus Lusk
Mike W 7 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Neil McA 28 Jul, 2013 2nd rpt
with Stan
with Stan
alexjz 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Great climb, felt good in spite of the lack of sleep from the party the night before. Amazing day and very hot though the line was in the shade. I need to work on my gear placements. Lots of gear and bigger than I thought it would be. The stakes at the top need changing.
with Matt Burdekin
Great climb, felt good in spite of the lack of sleep from the party the night before. Amazing day and very hot though the line was in the shade. I need to work on my gear placements. Lots of gear and bigger than I thought it would be. The stakes at the top need changing.
with Matt Burdekin
bigrob 9 Jun, 2013 TR
with si hammond, joel perkins
with si hammond, joel perkins
Ed morris 18 May, 2013 Lead O/S Unusual belay on the rock in the middle of the stream. Good climbing but with loose rock on the lower half. Fantastic climbing on the second half, unrelenting sustained 5b.
with Colin
Unusual belay on the rock in the middle of the stream. Good climbing but with loose rock on the lower half. Fantastic climbing on the second half, unrelenting sustained 5b.
with Colin
Rob84 4 May, 2013 2nd O/S
with Rob Greenwood
with Rob Greenwood
Hidden 24 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S
bunn.aroundthebloc 24 Mar, 2013 2nd
burto 6 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with jerome
with jerome
nick arding 21 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Philippa Arding
with Philippa Arding
Hidden 16 Aug, 2012 TR
Philippa Arding 28 Jul, 2012 2nd
with nick arding
with nick arding
Tom Seccombe 9 Jul, 2012 Lead rpt Retro Flash. Holes in Rockboots.
Retro Flash. Holes in Rockboots.
mountain_jay 17 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S Awesome! Don't forget the wellies and a bucket!!
with Pippa
Awesome! Don't forget the wellies and a bucket!!
with Pippa
Pippa 15 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
jkarran 6 Apr, 2012 2nd Pegs are looking pretty sorry for themselves. Top section sustained and tricky, only just stayed with it.
with Aly
Pegs are looking pretty sorry for themselves. Top section sustained and tricky, only just stayed with it.
with Aly
Hidden ??, 2012 -
steveb2006 27 Sep, 2011 Lead Great to get this done after previous failure. Sustained.
Great to get this done after previous failure. Sustained.
Hidden 31 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
dan gibson 31 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
CRiddiford 29 Aug, 2011 2nd
realbobsmith 22 Aug, 2011 2nd
wi11 17 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
alaan 9 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
steveb2006 6 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf Wanted to do this for some time but the middle crux bit is soaking and not much hope of climbing through it, so carefully climb back down
with David Andrew
Wanted to do this for some time but the middle crux bit is soaking and not much hope of climbing through it, so carefully climb back down
with David Andrew
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
chris m fisher 25 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S A great hidden gem
with Jake, Andy, Joe
A great hidden gem
with Jake, Andy, Joe
Hidden 20 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
JeromeT ?Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
with Matt L
with Matt L
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Ged Desforges ??, 2011 - A really great route, but take care on the bottom half. Some pretty snappy rock, and not much gear. The first peg is nackered, but can be backed up with a reasonable RP
A really great route, but take care on the bottom half. Some pretty snappy rock, and not much gear. The first peg is nackered, but can be backed up with a reasonable RP
Hidden 16 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
david morse 16 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
with chris todd
with chris todd
Tom Seccombe 29 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with Stu Bradbury
with Stu Bradbury
Chad123 11 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Really fun climb, slightly bold in bottom half with fiddly gear and then a cool steep, well protected finger crack to finish. Much easier than more than a match done the same day - a great double!
with sgl
Really fun climb, slightly bold in bottom half with fiddly gear and then a cool steep, well protected finger crack to finish. Much easier than more than a match done the same day - a great double!
with sgl
thomasadixon 3 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Brilliant. Looks a bit grassy but isn't, stunning situation and great climbing!
Brilliant. Looks a bit grassy but isn't, stunning situation and great climbing!
BeccaSnowden 3 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S Very cool place to belay from, really exciting route to follow!
Very cool place to belay from, really exciting route to follow!
briar4012 2 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
Marti999 2 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Bobby Gilbert 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 10 Apr, 2010 2nd dnf tiring after a full-on day, but great location got to top but didn't do all the moves (pulled up!), so dnf
tiring after a full-on day, but great location got to top but didn't do all the moves (pulled up!), so dnf
Hidden 12 Sep, 2009 2nd dog
westong 12 Sep, 2009 Lead
Hidden 30 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
JMarkW 30 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
with PeakDJ
with PeakDJ
Hidden 30 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
chris sm 13 Jul, 2008 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
prawn 15 Jun, 2008 2nd β
Hidden 15 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
Dan Shirley 25 Apr, 2007 TR O/S
Mark Kemball 25 Jun, 2006 2nd
with Nic Dill
with Nic Dill
richardr ?Jun, 2006 2nd O/S
Ally Smith ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Jul, 2005 2nd
duncan 19 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
with Dan Donovan
Hidden 7 Jun, 2004 Lead β
tuftynick ??, 2004 Lead O/S
with andy benson
with andy benson
Hidden 24 Aug, 2003 2nd O/S
Mark Kemball 31 May, 2003 2nd
with Nic Dill
with Nic Dill
Hidden 27 May, 2003 2nd O/S
goi.ashmore 21 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S Brilliant!
with Roy Thomas
Brilliant!
with Roy Thomas
Hidden ??, 2001 Lead
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Simon cook ?Apr, 1998 -
chris sm ?Sep, 1997 2nd O/S
with Jim Hall
with Jim Hall
andy_pemberton ?May, 1997 Lead
with Rik Meek
with Rik Meek
anthony moore 11 Jun, 1993 2nd good route at the time, has subsequently become more overgrown
with mark sykes
good route at the time, has subsequently become more overgrown
with mark sykes
Hidden 11 Aug, 1992 Lead O/S
Andy Say 27 Apr, 1991 Lead
Neil McA 25 Aug, 1990 2nd O/S
with Clive Davis
with Clive Davis
Hidden ?May, 1990 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball ??, 1990 Lead
pete osullivan ?Jun, 1984 Lead G/U Cleaned the top crack of compacted earth then led in one go. Had tried to climb it on sight the previous weekend but was stopped by the top crack. I placed the peg on lead.
with Ivor Thomas, Martin Doyle
Cleaned the top crack of compacted earth then led in one go. Had tried to climb it on sight the previous weekend but was stopped by the top crack. I placed the peg on lead.
with Ivor Thomas, Martin Doyle
56 users have this on their wishlist
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Votes cast 28
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set