Rockfax Description
A classy, sustained pitch in an idyllic setting. The route follows the sheer-looking, blank wall to the right of the picturesque waterfall. Start on boulders in the stream at the base of the line.
32m. Climb the line of thin cracks to small ledges and continue past a peg to another small ledge midway up the wall. The upper section of the crack gradually steepens but the holds get bigger and better. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the crack to small grassy ledge, ticky moves past poor peg, follow sustained diangnal crack to the top.
Still needs a extra stake, there is a new one up high that's good, but the one in the hollow is only a foot long, be warned.

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Culm - When the tide's in., Ultimate E3 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Dave Turnbull, BMC 25/Jun/17 -
Jess Carr 06/May/17 2nd O/S
with Rich Pollard
Hidden 06/May/17 Lead O/S
sparkass 11/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Took a while to find the anchor stakes but they are there - 3 if I remember correctly? Amazing setting, amazing line, quite hard - awesome!

skelf 11/Sep/16 2nd
with Dunc C
datoon 14/Aug/15 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 14/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Superb. River in spate for added atmosphere.

Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
tash 06/Jun/15 2nd

First time belaying in a stream or climbing next to a waterfall!

with ali k
Russell Blackaller 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with ferdia
ferdia 16/May/15 2nd
riddle 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Lost at S,P,S and had to second this great route.

mikeyjbs 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Owen W-G 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Well chuffed with this one, lots of doubt and digging deep, had a few moments, felt a step up from the E2s I'm used to, hardest and best route this year

with Tony Seale
Duncan Campbell 13/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant little route. A couple of poor pegs but lots of natural gear available. Great end to a sweet day at Sharpnose!

with GuyVG
Wood for Trees 13/Aug/14 2nd O/S

breathtaking surroundings. Gets hard when the angle steepens.

Hidden 21/Jul/14 2nd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 20/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/May/14 Lead dnf
AlexD 19/Sep/13 2nd
with Ed
Ed Babs 19/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Great. Found 4 stakes at the top and equalised with spare rope. 2 in hollow, 1 up slope and 1 behind mound towards ford.

with AlexD
Hidden 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
alexjz 18/Aug/13 2nd rpt

This felt harder than when I lead it a month ago. I must have been in better shape then. Very happy with the lead back then. A couple of hard sections: passing the second peg and near the end moving from a big flat slanted edge high up to a constricting flaring crack which I got a poor finger lock in.

with Rufus Lusk
Mike W 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Neil McA 28/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Stan
alexjz 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Great climb, felt good in spite of the lack of sleep from the party the night before. Amazing day and very hot though the line was in the shade. I need to work on my gear placements. Lots of gear and bigger than I thought it would be. The stakes at the top need changing.

with Matt Burdekin
Hidden 09/Jun/13 TR
Ed morris 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Unusual belay on the rock in the middle of the stream. Good climbing but with loose rock on the lower half. Fantastic climbing on the second half, unrelenting sustained 5b.

with Colin
Hidden 04/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Mar/13 Lead O/S
El3ctroFuzz 24/Mar/13 2nd
burto 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with jerome
nick arding 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Philippa Arding
Hidden 16/Aug/12 TR
Philippa Arding 28/Jul/12 2nd
with nick arding
Tom Seccombe 09/Jul/12 Lead rpt

Retro Flash. Holes in Rockboots.

mountain_jay 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Awesome! Don't forget the wellies and a bucket!!

Pippa 15/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
jkarran 06/Apr/12 2nd

Pegs are looking pretty sorry for themselves. Top section sustained and tricky, only just stayed with it.

with Aly
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 27/Sep/11 Lead
Hidden 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
dan gibson 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with michael porter
CRiddiford 29/Aug/11 2nd
with Jonny, Mike
wi11 17/Aug/11 Lead dnf
alaan 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 06/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
JeromeT ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Matt L
mwatson ??/2011 -
Ged Desforges ??/2011 -

A really great route, but take care on the bottom half. Some pretty snappy rock, and not much gear. The first peg is nackered, but can be backed up with a reasonable RP

Hidden 16/Sep/10 Lead O/S
david morse 16/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with chris todd
Tom Seccombe 29/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Stu Bradbury
Chad123 11/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Really fun climb, slightly bold in bottom half with fiddly gear and then a cool steep, well protected finger crack to finish. Much easier than more than a match done the same day - a great double!

with Sam
thomasadixon 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Looks a bit grassy but isn't, stunning situation and great climbing!

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 03/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Very cool place to belay from, really exciting route to follow!

with Tom
briar4012 02/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Marti, Pete
Marti999 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Bobby Gilbert 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 10/Apr/10 2nd dnf

tiring after a full-on day, but great location got to top but didn't do all the moves (pulled up!), so dnf

Hidden 12/Sep/09 2nd dog
westong 12/Sep/09 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S
chris sm 13/Jul/08 Lead rpt
with Pippa Froggatt
prawn 15/Jun/08 2nd β
with Graham
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead RP
Dan Shirley 25/Apr/07 TR O/S
Mark Kemball 25/Jun/06 2nd
with Nic Dill
richardr ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S
Ally Smith ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/05 2nd
duncan 19/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Donovan
Macca_7 07/Jun/04 Lead β

No Probs lovely route

with Ann Fisher
tuftynick ??/2004 Lead O/S
with andy benson
Hidden 24/Aug/03 2nd O/S
Mark Kemball 31/May/03 2nd
with Nic Dill
Macca_7 27/May/03 2nd O/S

Lovely climb will return to lead not to bad

with Simon Young
goi.ashmore 21/Apr/03 Lead O/S


with Roy Thomas
Hidden ??/2001 Lead
Bullybones ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Simon cook ?/Apr/98 -
chris sm ?/Sep/97 2nd O/S
with Jim Hall
andy_pemberton ?/May/97 Lead
with Rik Meek
Rich Kirby 11/Aug/92 Lead O/S
Andy Say 27/Apr/91 Lead
Hidden ?/May/90 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball ??/1990 Lead
pete osullivan ?/Jun/84 Lead G/U

Cleaned the top crack of compacted earth then led in one go. Had tried to climb it on sight the previous weekend but was stopped by the top crack. I placed the peg on lead.

with Ivor Thomas, Martin Doyle
44 users have this on their wishlist
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 22
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set