Rockfax Description
Fairly bold but enjoyable climbing up the curving flakeline on the left-hand side of the bald slab left of Urizen's corner. Start below the left side of a flat pillar of rock with a very small wedged block in it at 7m.
Climb up the left side of the pillar to the small wedged block and a good ledge just above. Traverse left along a break, then move up to a narrow ramp-line. Follow this up right as it steepens to form a corner, peg, and continue up the left curving overlap to join the finish of Twinkletoes. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
DredStripe 21 Sep 2nd rpt
with D Harvey
with D Harvey
lucybradbury 15 Sep Lead O/S Fuuuun
Fuuuun
benkelsey 15 Sep 2nd O/S Hitchhiked with Lucy and Sam, thanks team
Hitchhiked with Lucy and Sam, thanks team
@samtaylorphotos 15 Sep 2nd
Lady Vee 22 Aug 2nd O/S
Luke90 21 Aug Lead O/S
Jamiewalkerjones 21 Aug 2nd What a cracker!
with Luke90
What a cracker!
with Luke90
Jamiewalkerjones 21 Aug 2nd What a cracker!
with Luke90
What a cracker!
with Luke90
Matt77 4 Aug Lead O/S
with Tom Riddelsdell
with Tom Riddelsdell
Hidden 12 Jul 2nd
Brookey 26 Jun 2nd O/S Crag swag alert! Purple cam stuck at the back of a large,thin flake about a third up. Probably easy to get with smaller hands.
Crag swag alert! Purple cam stuck at the back of a large,thin flake about a third up. Probably easy to get with smaller hands.
Lee_Meaden 26 Jun Lead O/S
with Brookey
with Brookey
Hidden 6 Jan Lead dnf
Hidden 5 Jan Lead O/S
Lumbering Oaf 13 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S The run outs are never too bad and there's enough good gear on the route to feel secure about the climbing. Great fun and a quality route!
with Laura
The run outs are never too bad and there's enough good gear on the route to feel secure about the climbing. Great fun and a quality route!
with Laura
Hidden 13 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 9 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
JoeCoxson 1 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Well named, and great route
Well named, and great route
Lizard Ollie 1 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S Great route, Joe seemed to place more gear than the grade suggests
Great route, Joe seemed to place more gear than the grade suggests
Davros the Psyched 17 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S
with twm
with twm
twm 17 Feb, 2018 2nd O/S
DredStripe 4 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Cracking route.
Cracking route.
Hidden 4 Feb, 2018 2nd
Al Evans ??, 2018 Lead
with andrea evans
with andrea evans
Stanners 11 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Very good route, weird with all the sea foam blasting at me a few times even when near the top!
with James Rich
Very good route, weird with all the sea foam blasting at me a few times even when near the top!
with James Rich
JamesRich 11 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
pete johnson 1 Sep, 2017 2nd
with pauldrew, Andy Boorman
with pauldrew, Andy Boorman
pauldrew 1 Sep, 2017 Lead
felixwilkins 29 Aug, 2017 2nd O/S
NatCheeseman 28 Aug, 2017 2nd
Loic_Menzies 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Jack
with Jack
KatOstrich 17 Jun, 2017 TR
with catty_9
with catty_9
catty_9 17 Jun, 2017 TR O/S Really nice climb, definitely deserves stars
with Chris Richards, KatOstrich, Camilla Mapstone
Really nice climb, definitely deserves stars
with Chris Richards, KatOstrich, Camilla Mapstone
Camilla Mapstone 17 Jun, 2017 TR
with catty_9
with catty_9
Sam Buckee 2 Jun, 2017 -
with Rich Whitwell
with Rich Whitwell
J.A.Thomson 1 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
with Dave
with Dave
anthony moore ?May, 2017 2nd
with sam moore
with sam moore
ClimbingAlex 29 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S Climbed as Dabs was battling the incoming tide! Sustained but steady climbing on smears and small feet. Just enough gear for the run outs to not be too significant. Probably E1 but only just!
with Dabbott
Climbed as Dabs was battling the incoming tide! Sustained but steady climbing on smears and small feet. Just enough gear for the run outs to not be too significant. Probably E1 but only just!
with Dabbott
Hidden 19 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
EllieWoods 12 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 12 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Did the Littlejohn 5b variation, left of the rockfax route and right of no sweat, straight up the small crack. Probably warrants a separate logbook entry as a distinct variation
Did the Littlejohn 5b variation, left of the rockfax route and right of no sweat, straight up the small crack. Probably warrants a separate logbook entry as a distinct variation
Kyle Whitehand ??, 2017 Lead
jamesb101 29 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
with Stroppy
with Stroppy
Stroppy 29 Dec, 2016 2nd O/S Had a massive grin on my face all the way up - great route, unusual and interesting climbing!
Had a massive grin on my face all the way up - great route, unusual and interesting climbing!
Bristol_Quornstar 4 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S Topped out at dusk
with Sam de Belder
Topped out at dusk
with Sam de Belder
Matt Amos 31 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S I think the 5a is right but I think it's soft for E1 with appropriate gear there are no sizable runouts. It's a really quality route, especially the bottom section.
with Sam O
I think the 5a is right but I think it's soft for E1 with appropriate gear there are no sizable runouts. It's a really quality route, especially the bottom section.
with Sam O
Sam O'Rourke 31 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
Mr Tickle 24 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
with Gareth
with Gareth
sheelba 20 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Legs
with Legs
Legs 20 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with sheelba
with sheelba
JackM92 10 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Really soft for E1, the climbing is enjoyable and the gear far better than it looks from below. Overall a good route.
Really soft for E1, the climbing is enjoyable and the gear far better than it looks from below. Overall a good route.
Hidden ?Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
RubySeagull ?Jul, 2016 2nd dog
Sam O'Rourke 25 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
elewis96 25 Jun, 2016 2nd O/S
Adam_42 30 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
Wil Treasure 30 Apr, 2016 Lead
with Adam_42
with Adam_42
J.A.Thomson 28 Feb, 2016 Lead rpt
with jack
with jack
Ian Miller 25 Sep, 2015 -
Cheese Monkey 25 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S A bit spicy but entertaining
A bit spicy but entertaining
Andy Moles 31 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Jon de Leyser
with Jon de Leyser
Jon de Leyser 31 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Very cool route. E1: sustained 5a climbing on small feet for first 30m, on slightly rickety, small gear.
Very cool route. E1: sustained 5a climbing on small feet for first 30m, on slightly rickety, small gear.
HowieB ?Jul, 2015 Lead
with James, Elliot
with James, Elliot
Hidden 30 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson 15 May, 2015 TR rpt
kingholmesy ??, 2015 2nd O/S
with Colin
with Colin
markfromstoke 31 Aug, 2014 2nd
with ian d f
with ian d f
ian d f 31 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Pippa 30 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
mountain_jay 30 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Pippa
with Pippa
Hidden 30 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
richsmithinbristol 30 Aug, 2014 Lead
with Pippa
with Pippa
Alex Mason 20 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Very bold and not convinced gear in the undercut flake would hold a fall. Not to be underestimated.
with Jemma Powell
Very bold and not convinced gear in the undercut flake would hold a fall. Not to be underestimated.
with Jemma Powell
jon_gill1 11 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
with ripper
with ripper
ripper 11 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S climbed this following a swim in the sea, in my boxers, so had to take them off. So I led undercracker with no undercrackers. nice route, enjoyed it.
with jon gill
climbed this following a swim in the sea, in my boxers, so had to take them off. So I led undercracker with no undercrackers. nice route, enjoyed it.
with jon gill
dprctr 10 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Climbed this quite quickly. Consistently interesting.
with rd20
Climbed this quite quickly. Consistently interesting.
with rd20
rd20 10 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
with dprctr
with dprctr
ferdia 3 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with burto
with burto
Mr Tickle 3 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S I think E1 5a, just enough sustained moves together to make it E1 with ok gear.
with davenev
I think E1 5a, just enough sustained moves together to make it E1 with ok gear.
with davenev
davenev 3 Mar, 2013 2nd dog
Samuel Wainwright 11 Jan, 2013 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
J.A.Thomson 6 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S A very nice climb with a lot of smearing. I think the peg should be removed to give it a better grad, it deserves
A very nice climb with a lot of smearing. I think the peg should be removed to give it a better grad, it deserves
Hidden ?Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
general 30 Sep, 2012 2nd
with Ian Lau
with Ian Lau
burto 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
with tom powell
with tom powell
Hidden 7 Sep, 2012 2nd O/S
Tom Seccombe 29 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
tim exley 29 Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
Hidden 7 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Nov, 2011 TR O/S
nickdonohue ?Nov, 2011 TR tide too high to establish belay so lowered down to start & reclimbed
tide too high to establish belay so lowered down to start & reclimbed
Elaine Bunn 15 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
sparbus 14 Oct, 2011 Lead Bold bits 4c rather than 5a. Splendid.
with FedUp
Bold bits 4c rather than 5a. Splendid.
with FedUp
halfwaythere 6 Oct, 2011 2nd
Kirill 25 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S grabbed the peg, otherwise clean
with Chris Donica
grabbed the peg, otherwise clean
with Chris Donica
Jim Slater 21 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S E1 in guide. Took a while to work out the sequence from the small ledge. Excellent route.
E1 in guide. Took a while to work out the sequence from the small ledge. Excellent route.
mark20 28 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
Fran S8 7 Aug, 2011 2nd
Bristoldave 22 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S Scary (but avoidable) loose block at the top
with nick
Scary (but avoidable) loose block at the top
with nick
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead O/S
mwatson ??, 2011 -
Hidden 25 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Dawlish 17 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
culmclimberRob 17 Sep, 2010 Lead almost had the onsight no troubles just one fall after the first peg, just went the wrong way about traversing around the overlap, had no problems apart from that, good climb
with kelvin
almost had the onsight no troubles just one fall after the first peg, just went the wrong way about traversing around the overlap, had no problems apart from that, good climb
with kelvin
Mike W ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
John Lisle ??, 2008 -
manwithacam ?Oct, 2007 2nd Gorgeous varied route.
with Martin
Gorgeous varied route.
with Martin
thomasadixon 3 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S Brilliant route, especially moving up following the flake. Never E1 though, it's HVS if quite hard in places. Toby's idea not letting Josh climb down by the way (good one though)!
with Josh, Toby
Brilliant route, especially moving up following the flake. Never E1 though, it's HVS if quite hard in places. Toby's idea not letting Josh climb down by the way (good one though)!
with Josh, Toby
freelancer_85 3 Sep, 2007 2nd O/S And Toby. Faffed around at the start for an age, only carried on because Tom wouldn't let me downclimb back to the ground! Really nice route though. One of the blocks at the top is very loose though, so be careful!
And Toby. Faffed around at the start for an age, only carried on because Tom wouldn't let me downclimb back to the ground! Really nice route though. One of the blocks at the top is very loose though, so be careful!
brian watson ?Sep, 2007 -
scott titt ?Sep, 2007 -
Hidden 28 Aug, 2007 2nd O/S
The Jazz Butcher 3 Aug, 2007 -
with Toby
with Toby
Ybot Htulk ?Aug, 2007 2nd
with Josh and Tom
with Josh and Tom
Julia Chatterton 24 Mar, 2007 2nd Amazing pitch, never thought it possible to layback on a slab, but it is!
with Will
Amazing pitch, never thought it possible to layback on a slab, but it is!
with Will
John Lisle ??, 2007 -
climber sim ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 27 Oct, 2006 2nd
with Stu Bradbury
with Stu Bradbury
Hidden 15 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall ?Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Steev
with Steev
Daniel Wrightson 8 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 8 Jul, 2006 2nd O/S Nice route. Probably E1 as the gear is a bit thin.
Nice route. Probably E1 as the gear is a bit thin.
John Lisle ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 2nd O/S
Mihkel 28 Aug, 2004 Lead O/S First E1. (Given 5b at time.)
with Mike Barclay
First E1. (Given 5b at time.)
with Mike Barclay
Mark Davies PK ?Aug, 2004 Lead O/S
with Laura
with Laura
charlesmfrench 15 Feb, 2004 2nd O/S
jmhood ??, 2004 Lead O/S
with Caroline Dix
with Caroline Dix
Albie 20 Sep, 2003 Lead dnf Feeling bold I spot a HVS 5a, down at the bottom I ask Rob Hinton about it and he just gives me a sly look and says go for it [the sandbagging bastard]. It starts hard, runouts but I'm feeling strong and continue to the top of the very thin ledge where I anchor with a very poor piece of gear. The next bit of gear is a rusty peg high up a ramp ledge that goes vertical. It's all looking very runout and scary and after half an hour i bail - staring at my crap bit of gear as i'm lowered off. I later find out that this used to be graded at E1 5b - exclamation.
with Richard Barnes
Feeling bold I spot a HVS 5a, down at the bottom I ask Rob Hinton about it and he just gives me a sly look and says go for it [the sandbagging bastard]. It starts hard, runouts but I'm feeling strong and continue to the top of the very thin ledge where I anchor with a very poor piece of gear. The next bit of gear is a rusty peg high up a ramp ledge that goes vertical. It's all looking very runout and scary and after half an hour i bail - staring at my crap bit of gear as i'm lowered off. I later find out that this used to be graded at E1 5b - exclamation.
with Richard Barnes
Hidden 15 Jul, 2001 2nd O/S
timreynolds 23 Sep, 2000 Lead
with Paul Bastiaiens
with Paul Bastiaiens
Jason Gotel ?Aug, 2000 TR Solo
Solo
Steveb27 1 Jan, 2000 AltLd
NickP ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
chris sm 5 Oct, 1997 2nd O/S
alan moore ??, 1996 - Hard, black, greasy E1
Hard, black, greasy E1
colin milton 20 Aug, 1995 Lead
with eric milton
with eric milton
tracyclimber 16 Jul, 1995 2nd
Hidden 6 Aug, 1993 -
Hidden 1 Aug, 1992 Lead
Marti999 ??, 1992 Lead
Hidden ??, 1992 Lead
Tim M ??, 1991 2nd O/S
daviesxxx ??, 1990 -
andy gittins ??, 1990 Lead
Moses 24 Dec, 1989 2nd
Andy Say 1 Nov, 1989 Lead
Derek Ryden 26 Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
with Adam Harvey
with Adam Harvey
robbie mallinson 24 Aug, 1989 - 21/8/93 24/8/89 Summer 88
21/8/93 24/8/89 Summer 88
Hidden ?Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
William Robertson ??, 1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
Tom V 16 Aug, 1987 -
with Howie Darwin
with Howie Darwin
Hidden ?Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
jcw ??, 1987 2nd
with Mike Dawes
with Mike Dawes
eroica64 23 Aug, 1986 Lead
with Denis Crampton
with Denis Crampton
Simon cook ?Aug, 1986 -
David Slater 12 Jun, 1986 Lead
with Animal
with Animal
mikej 20 Sep, 1985 Lead
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
Hidden 7 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?Oct, 1984 Lead O/S
UKB Shark 29 Jul, 1984 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
with Bruce Woodley
Richard Weller 12 May, 1984 2nd
with Rory O'Connor
with Rory O'Connor
Ena ?Aug, 1983 2nd
with Mark Courtiour
with Mark Courtiour
Mark Kemball 19 Jun, 1983 Lead
with Mike Arnold
with Mike Arnold
Hammy 19 Aug, 1981 Lead
with Rob Lawson
with Rob Lawson
beaumap 26 Jun, 1981 Lead
with Martin Davis
with Martin Davis
mark-abz 21 Jun, 1981 Lead
with Kev H
with Kev H
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
Martin Bennett 22 Jul, 1980 -
with JD
with JD
Mike C 8 Jun, 1980 2nd
Brian Wilderspin 8 Jun, 1980 Lead O/S
with Mike C
with Mike C
duncan ?May, 1980 Lead O/S
with Simon Reed
with Simon Reed
Hidden 13 Aug, 1979 Lead
Hidden 7 Aug, 1978 2nd
D Tempest 1 Jul, 1978 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 2 Apr, 1977 Lead O/S
with Gary
with Gary
D Tempest ?Jan, 1977 Lead
turnerk ??, 1976 -
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 36
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set