Rockfax Description
Fairly bold but enjoyable climbing up the curving flakeline on the left-hand side of the bald slab left of Urizen's corner. Start below the left side of a flat pillar of rock with a very small wedged block in it at 7m.
Climb up the left side of the pillar to the small wedged block and a good ledge just above. Traverse left along a break, then move up to a narrow ramp-line. Follow this up right as it steepens to form a corner, peg, and continue up the left curving overlap to join the finish of Twinkletoes. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.


ClimberDateStyle
Stanners 11/Sep Lead O/S

Very good route, weird with all the sea foam blasting at me a few times even when near the top!

with James Rich
JamesRich 11/Sep 2nd O/S
pete johnson 01/Sep 2nd
with Paul Drew, Andy Boorman
pauldrew 01/Sep Lead
felixwilkins 29/Aug 2nd O/S
NatCheeseman 28/Aug 2nd
loic.menzies 28/Aug Lead O/S
with Jack
catty_9 17/Jun TR O/S

Really nice climb, definitely deserves stars

with Chris Richards, Kat Ostrich, Camilla Mapstone
Sam Buckee 02/Jun -
with Rich Whitwell
J.A.Thomson 01/Jun Lead rpt
with Dave
ClimbingAlex 29/Apr Lead O/S

Climbed as Dabs was battling the incoming tide! Sustained but steady climbing on smears and small feet. Just enough gear for the run outs to not be too significant. Probably E1 but only just!

with Dabbott
Hidden 19/Apr Lead O/S
EllieWoods 12/Mar 2nd O/S
petecallaghan 12/Mar Lead O/S

Did the Littlejohn 5b variation, left of the rockfax route and right of no sweat, straight up the small crack. Probably warrants a separate logbook entry as a distinct variation

kw299 ??/2017 Lead
jamesb101 29/Dec/16 Lead O/S
Stroppy 29/Dec/16 2nd O/S

Had a massive grin on my face all the way up - great route, unusual and interesting climbing!

with Bevan
Bristol_Quornstar 04/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Topped out at dusk

with Sam de Belder
Matt Amos 31/Aug/16 Lead O/S

I think the 5a is right but I think it's soft for E1 with appropriate gear there are no sizable runouts. It's a really quality route, especially the bottom section.

with Sam O
Sam O'Rourke 31/Aug/16 2nd rpt
Mr Tickle 24/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Gareth
sheelba 20/Jul/16 2nd
with Legs
Legs 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Sam
JackM92 10/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Really soft for E1, the climbing is enjoyable and the gear far better than it looks from below. Overall a good route.

Hidden ?/Jul/16 Lead rpt
RubySeagull ?/Jul/16 2nd dog
with Dan
Sam O'Rourke 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
elewis96 25/Jun/16 2nd O/S
Adam_42 30/Apr/16 2nd O/S
drysori 30/Apr/16 Lead
with Adam_42
J.A.Thomson 28/Feb/16 Lead rpt
with jack
Ian Miller 25/Sep/15 -
Cheese Monkey 25/Sep/15 Lead O/S

A bit spicy but entertaining

with Ian M
Andy Moles 31/Jul/15 2nd
with Jon de Leyser
Jon_dL 31/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Very cool route. E1: sustained 5a climbing on small feet for first 30m, with some rickety, small gear before run-outs.

HowieB ?/Jul/15 Lead
with James, Elliot
Hidden 30/Jun/15 Lead O/S
J.A.Thomson 15/May/15 TR rpt
kingholmesy ??/2015 2nd O/S
with Colin
markfromstoke 31/Aug/14 2nd
with Ian
ian d f 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Mark
Pippa 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mountain_jay 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/14 2nd O/S
richsmithinbristol 30/Aug/14 Lead
with Pippa
Alex Mason 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Very bold and not convinced gear in the undercut flake would hold a fall. Not to be underestimated.

with Jemma Powell
jon_gill1 11/Aug/13 2nd O/S
ripper 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

climbed this following a swim in the sea, in my boxers, so had to take them off. So I led undercracker with no undercrackers. nice route, enjoyed it.

with jon gill
dprctr 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Climbed this quite quickly. Consistently interesting.

rd20 10/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with David P
ferdia 03/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Mr Tickle 03/Mar/13 Lead O/S

I think E1 5a, just enough sustained moves together to make it E1 with ok gear.

with davenev
davenev 03/Mar/13 2nd dog
with luke
Hidden 11/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
J.A.Thomson 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S

A very nice climb with a lot of smearing. I think the peg should be removed to give it a better grad, it deserves

with Dan
Hidden ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S
general 30/Sep/12 2nd
with Ian Lau
burto 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with tom powell
Hidden 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Tom Seccombe 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
tim exley 29/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Nov/11 TR O/S
nickdonohue ?/Nov/11 TR

tide too high to establish belay so lowered down to start & reclimbed

Elaine Budden 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
sparbus 14/Oct/11 Lead

Bold bits 4c rather than 5a. Splendid.

with mike b
halfwaythere 06/Oct/11 2nd
Kirill 25/Sep/11 Lead O/S

grabbed the peg, otherwise clean

with Chris Donica
Jim Slater 21/Sep/11 Lead O/S

E1 in guide. Took a while to work out the sequence from the small ledge. Excellent route.

mark20 28/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Fran S8 07/Aug/11 2nd
Bristoldave 22/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Scary (but avoidable) loose block at the top

with nick
misterb ??/2011 Lead O/S

fine balancy e 0 climbing

with wain
mwatson ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Dawlish 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Rob
culmclimberRob 17/Sep/10 Lead

almost had the onsight no troubles just one fall after the first peg, just went the wrong way about traversing around the overlap, had no problems apart from that, good climb

with kelvin
Mike W ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/09 Lead O/S
John Lisle ??/2008 -
manwithacam ?/Oct/07 2nd

Gorgeous varied route.

with Martin
thomasadixon 03/Sep/07 Lead O/S

Brilliant route, especially moving up following the flake. Never E1 though, it's HVS if quite hard in places. Toby's idea not letting Josh climb down by the way (good one though)!

with Josh, Toby
freelancer_85 03/Sep/07 2nd O/S

And Toby. Faffed around at the start for an age, only carried on because Tom wouldn't let me downclimb back to the ground! Really nice route though. One of the blocks at the top is very loose though, so be careful!

with Tom
brian watson ?/Sep/07 -
Hidden ?/Sep/07 -
Hidden 28/Aug/07 2nd O/S
The Jazz Butcher 03/Aug/07 -
with Toby
Ybot Htulk ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Josh and Tom
Julia Chatterton 24/Mar/07 2nd

Amazing pitch, never thought it possible to layback on a slab, but it is!

with Will
John Lisle ??/2007 -
climber sim ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 27/Oct/06 2nd
with Stu Bradbury
Macca_7 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Tricky route with a bit of a run out

with Ann Fisher
gaz.marshall ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Steev
Daniel Wrightson 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Oliver Sherman 08/Jul/06 2nd O/S

Nice route. Probably E1 as the gear is a bit thin.

John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
charlesmfrench 15/Feb/04 2nd O/S
jmhood ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Caroline Dix
Hidden 20/Sep/03 Lead dnf
Hidden 15/Jul/01 2nd O/S
timreynolds 23/Sep/00 Lead
with Paul Bastiaiens
Jason Gotel ?/Aug/00 TR

Solo

NickP ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 -
chris sm 05/Oct/97 2nd O/S
alan moore ??/1996 -

Hard, black, greasy E1

colin milton 20/Aug/95 Lead
with eric milton
tracyclimber 16/Jul/95 2nd
Hidden 06/Aug/93 -
Marti999 ??/1992 Lead
Hidden ??/1992 Lead
Tim M ??/1991 2nd O/S
daviesxxx ??/1990 -
andy gittins ??/1990 Lead
Moses 24/Dec/89 2nd
Andy Say 01/Nov/89 Lead
Derek Ryden 26/Aug/89 Lead O/S
with Adam Harvey
William Robertson ??/1988 Lead O/S
with Emily
Tom V 16/Aug/87 -
with Howie Darwin
clark alston ?/Apr/87 Lead O/S
with Alan Pow, Mark Courtiour
jcw ??/1987 2nd
with Mike Dawes
eroica64 23/Aug/86 Lead
with Denis Crampton
Simon cook ?/Aug/86 -
mikej 20/Sep/85 Lead
with Mike Byles
Hidden 07/Jul/85 Lead O/S
wynaptomos ?/Oct/84 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 29/Jul/84 Lead O/S
with Bruce Woodley
Richard Weller 12/May/84 2nd
with Rory O'Connor
Ena ?/Aug/83 2nd
with Mark Courtiour
Mark Kemball 19/Jun/83 Lead
with Mike Arnold
Hammy 19/Aug/81 Lead
with Rob Lawson
beaumap 26/Jun/81 Lead
with Martin Davis
mark-abz 21/Jun/81 Lead
with Kev H
Paul Clarke ??/1981 Lead
with Unsure
Martin Bennett 22/Jul/80 -
with JD
Mike C 08/Jun/80 2nd
duncan ?/May/80 Lead O/S
with Simon Reed
jon 13/Aug/79 Lead
with Elaine
Hidden 07/Aug/78 2nd
D Tempest 01/Jul/78 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 02/Apr/77 Lead O/S
with Gary
D Tempest ?/Jan/77 Lead
turnerk ??/1976 -
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 31
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set